functional ingredients - AAK Personal Care · At AAK Personal Care we have over 30 years’ experience in developing and manufacturing high-performance, value-adding natural-based

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functional ingredients

redefine natural

It’s what we do

Push the boundaries of possibilities through technologically advanced natural emollients.

It’s what we challenge you to do

Use our value-adding solutions to develop innovative and superior quality formulations.

It’s what we can do together

Change perceptions of natural by delivering sustainable performance without compromise.

As a formulator or manufacturer, you know that cosmetic innovation is not only about identifying new sources, ingredients or product offerings. It is also about finding creative solutions to meet the ever-evolving needs of consumers, society and regulators. So, if you are looking to develop more natural, sustainable and eco-friendly formulations that deliver superior functionality and enhanced aesthetics, then we can help.

Pioneering innovations in lipid technologyAt AAK Personal Care we have over 30 years’ experience in developing and manufacturing high-performance, value-adding natural-based emollients for the global beauty and personal care industry. Our specialist knowledge and technological expertise are unparalleled, with our name a byword for excellence.

Changing perceptions of natural The demand for cosmetics that offer additional environmental and social benefits is on the rise. But today’s beauty consumers are not prepared to compromise on product performance in the process.

Our portfolio of sustainably sourced innovations pushes the boundaries of possibilities. Enabling the creation of safe, stable, sophisticated formulations that offer a new take on the meaning of natural.

Our commitment to the planetAll our products originate from natural, renewable sources and we are pledged to minimising our carbon footprint, lowering waste and emissions and reducing consumption of energy and water. In acknowledgement ofour achievements in these areas wehave been granted the EcoVadis Gold Recognition Level.

Support and knowledge sharing Our team is always on hand for customised training, technical assistance and claims substantiation. But we don’t stop there. We can also help with all aspects of the creative process, including inspiration, ideation and implementation. We’re here for you.

Contents

Innovations with shea 4

Bioactives 6

Emollients 8

Structuring agents 12

Emulsifiers & Surfactants 13

AAK ACADEMY™ 14

Approvals and Certifications 14

personal care

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innovations with shea

Making a positive difference Our shea-based innovations open up new opportunities not only for you as a cosmetic formulator, but also for the estimated 16 million women in West Africa who rely on shea for an income. Increasing demand from cosmetic manufacturers is helping to build a bigger, better shea industry and halt rural-urban migration in the region. Generating more earnings to empower the shea-collecting women, improving local livelihoods and securing supplies for the future. A win-win outcome all round.

Creating value and sustainability through direct sourcing Streamlined supply chains give local women more negotiating power, a higher income and greater inde-pendence. The AAK Kolo Nafaso direct sourcing programme was introduced in Burkina Faso in 2009 and has recently been extended to Ghana. Based on fair trade principles, including access to pre-financing, education and logistical support, the programme involves over 115,000 women and continues to grow.

At AAK we have pioneered newtechniques to optimise the physicaland sensory characteristics of shea andallow increased functional use across thefull spectrum of cosmetic applications.From solid and semi-solid forms offeringhigh temperature stability, low odour andimproved colour, to liquid versions thateliminate crystallisation and enable clear,sprayable formulations.

Lipex Shea™ High stability semi-solid shea butter

Lipex SheaSoft™ Soft and creamy semi-solid shea butter

Lipex 102™ Solid refined shea butter

SHE AKERNELS

SOLID CRUDESHE A BUT TER

Lipex 205™ High stabillity liquid shea oil

Lipex SheaClear™ Clear liquid shea oil

Lipex SheaLiquid™ TRFully traceable semi-liquid shea oil

Lipex SheaLight™

Eco-designed liquid shea ester

Lipex SheaTris™

Bioactive shea triterpene concentrate

Lipex L’sens™

Highly polar semi-solid shea gel

SOLIDemollients

ACTIVES

LIQUIDemollients

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empowering womenimproving livelihoods securing the future

2017Ecovia Intelligence named AAK as the 2017 winner of the Sustainability Pioneer Award, in recognition of our work in West Africa to

promote the sustainable sourcing of shea, via the Kolo Nafaso direct sourcing programme.

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naturally-derived bioactive lipids bioactive studiesbioactives

When it comes to protecting skin against environmental stress and premature ageing, our naturally- derived bioactives are proven to pack a powerful punch. With documented anti-inflammatory and collagen protecting properties, our natural based Lipex bioactives are effective even in low concentrations. They are ideally suited for anti- ageing and anti-pollution cosmetic formulations, as well as those targeting sensitive skin.

Harnessing the bioactivity of minor lipids Using our patented technology, we have been able to utilise the inherent bioactivity of the minor lipids found in sustainable sources of canola oil and shea butter. Our bioactive ingredients feature high concentrations of anti-oxidative natural tocopherols (Vitamin E), anti-inflammatory phytosterols and their esters, as well as triterpene esters, all of which are renowned for their skin protecting and revitalising properties.

Well-documented functionality and skin tolerance Lipex bioactives are well-character-ised lipophilic ingredients for safe use within beauty and personal care applications. Good skin tolerance with documented non-irritancy makes them well suited for premium facial skin care, dermo-cosmetics and applications for sensitive skin. The high stability profile further allows for specialised colour cosmetic applications.

Lipex SheaTris™ has been shown to: • Strengthen the skin barrier function to improve moisture retention and protect against environmental aggressors• Protect skin against collagen degrading enzymes• Reduce the activity of pro-inflammatory cytokines linked to premature ageing

Lipex Cellect™ is rich in phytosterol esters and has been shown to reduce the release of inflammatory mediators and help soothe and calm irritated skin.

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Products

Lipex SheaTris™

Lipex Cellect™

Description/Applications

Shea butter triterpene ester concentrate. Long-term protection against environmental stress and premature ageing. Triterpene ester content 50 – 65%. Skin care and makeup.

Canola based phytosterol concentrate. Helps to supplement skin lipids. Protects against premature ageing. Phytosterol ester content 45%. Skin care and makeup.

Documented Functionality

Barrier strengthening (in vitro, ex vivo) Collagen protecting (in vitro, ex vivo) Anti-inflammatory (in vitro)

Anti-inflammatory (in vitro)

INCI (EU)

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract

Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides

Use level

0,5 – 1%

0,5 – 2%

BioactivesLipex SheaTris™ at 0.1%Lipex SheaTris™ at 0.05%

Placebo cream Cream with 0.5% Lipex SheaTris™

Lipex Cellect™

(25%) in Akosun(+PMA)

Control(-PMA)

Decamethazone**(+PMA)

Control(+PMA)*

* Phorbol myristate acetate,pro-inflammatory agent(5μg/ml)added toculturemedium

**Referencecompound (0.1μM)

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MMP-3 gene expressionReduction of collagenase activity

Lipex SheaTris™ protects skin collagen structures and fights premature skin ageing

Anti-inflammatory activity of Lipex Cellect™

IL 1-α cytokine release by reconstructed epidermis

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emollients

Products(Origin)

Description/ApplicationsINCI (EU) Use level

Solids

Performance Emollients

Lipex CocoaSoft™

(Cocoa)

Lipex IllipeSoft™

(Illipe)

Lipex SMP™

Lipex 102™

(Shea)

Lipex 106™

(Illipe)

Cocoa butter with optimised melting profile. Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties versus traditional cocoa butter. Skin care.

Illipe butter with optimised melting profile. Improved heat stability and crystallisationproperties versus traditional illipe butter. Skin care.

Solid emollient rapidly melting at body temperature inducing a cooling effect. Spreads easily on the skin with a soft-dry after feel. Skin care, makeup (pencils).

Refined and deodorised shea butter. Low colour and odour. Skin care.

Refined and deodorised illipe butter of the Dayaks of Borneo. Low colour and odour.Skin care.

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter

2 – 5%

2 – 5%

1 – 30%

1 – 2%

1 – 2%

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Products(Origin)


Lipex PreAct™

(Canola) Canola oil with unique composition of natural tocopherols (vitamin E) and phytosterols. Documented protection of skin proteins and lipids against photo oxidation and free radicals. Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Canola Oil 2 – 5%

Bioactive Emollients

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•Science and innovationOur decades of experience within lipid technology have enabled us to develop advanced, high- performance naturally derived emollients with excellent stability and long shelf life. This expertise is evidenced by our comprehensive list of butters, gels, oils and esters,

all offering unique features, advantages and benefits to help you overcome specific formulation challenges, meet new trends and answer ever-changing consumer needs. The best of natureSourced from shea, illipe, canola,

cocoa, mango and more, each of our ingredients is carefully selected, processed, and in some cases combined, to obtain the exact chemical profile needed to optimise the efficacy, functionality and sensory appeal of your final formulations.

New Lipex SMP™

Lipex SMP is a highly versatile, oxidative-stable texturiser with a sharp melting profile and excellent crystallinity. It combines a silky-smooth richness with a soft-dry skin feel to offer unique textures transformations in both face and body care formulations.

Solid at room temperature, it converts to a low viscosity liquid at body temperature with the potential to provide a cooling sensation when melting. Suitable for both emulsion and anhydrous-based systems, Lipex SMP is an excellent solid emol-lient for aerated textured products.

Its compatibility with natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils and esters, makes it an efficient texturiser for cosmetic pencils, sticks and crayons.

Semi-solids

Lipex SheaSoft™

(Shea)

Lipex Shea™

(Shea)

Soft semi-solid shea butter. Documented moisturisation and skin barrier recovery. Improved heat stability and crystallisation propertiesversus traditional shea butters. Suitable for high concentrations and anhydrous formulations. Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Improved shea butter. Quick crystallisation for long-term texture stabililty. Skin care and hair care.



2 – 15%

2 – 15%

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NEW!Lipex SMP™

Highly versatile, oxidative- stable, solid emollient with a sharp melting profile for achieving unique texture transformations

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Products Description/ApplicationsINCI (EU) Use level

EstersLipex Shea W™

Lipex Shea WM™

Lipex SheaLight™

Solid shea butter wax ester. Dry and velvety skin feel. Optimised for makeup and anhydrous formulations.Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Liquid shea butter ester. Low viscosity and low spreadability. Quick absorption and velvety skin feel. Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Eco-designed liquid shea butter ester. Low viscosity. Light and silky soft skin feel. Excellent carrier for organic UV filters and pigments. Suitable for cold processing. Skin care, hair care, sun care and makeup.

Shea Butter Cetyl Esters

Shea Butter Oleyl Esters

Shea Butter Ethyl Esters

2 – 5%

2 – 5%

5 – 15%

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•Use level

Lipex SheaClear™ (Shea)

Lipex 205™ (Shea)

LipexSheaLiquid™ TR(Shea)

Lipex

Omega 3/6™ (Gold of Pleasure)

Lipex 109 S™ (Cottonseed)

Lipex 120™ (Canola)

Lipex 203™

(Mango)

Liquid shea oil for clear formulations and cold processing. Suitable for all types of moisturising and softening body oils, face oils and hair oils. A mild ingredient for baby oils and lotions.

Liquid shea butter with enriched content of triterpene esters and vitamin F. Contributes to good skin health. Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Liquid shea butter from a traceable supply chain with enriched content of triterpene esters and vitamin F. Contributes to good skin health.Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Stable delivery system with optimised balance of omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids (3:1) from Gold of Pleasure oil. Essential omega fatty acids for restoring skin health. Suitable for cold processing. Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Cottonseed oil stabilised with an optimised natural antioxidant system. Rich in omega-6 fatty acids. Skin care and hair care.

Canola oil stabilised with an optimised natural antioxidant system. Rich in omega-3, omega-6 and omega-9 fatty acids. Skin care.

A golden oil from the seeds of the mango fruit. Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Butyrospermum Parkii Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (or) Butyrospermum Parkii Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (or) Butyrospermum Parkii Oil

Olus Oil (and) Camelina Sativa Seed Oil

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

Canola Oil

Mangifera Indica Seed Oil

2 – 80%

2 – 5%

2 – 5%

2 – 5%

2 – 3%

2 – 3%

2 – 3%

Liquids

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Lipex Lsens™ (Soybean/Shea)

Akosoft 36™

(Coco-glycerides)

Polar vegetable gel. Documented moisturisation. Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Stable semi-solid emollient based on coco- glycerides. Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Soybean Glycerides (and) Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables

Hydrogenated Coco-glycerides

2 – 5%

2 – 5%

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Products(Origin)


Semi-solids

Lipex Bassol C™

High Oleic Brassica Oil™

Akosun™

Renewable clear high stability oil (OSI 40h, 110 °C). Alternative to mineral/synthetic emollients and vegetable oils with short shelf life. Suitable for cold processing. Skin care and hair care.

Canola oil with prolonged shelf life (OSI 16hours, 110 °C). Rich in omega-9 and omega-6 fatty acids.Skin care.

Cold clear high oleic (omega-9) sunflower seed oil. Prolonged shelf life (OSI 20h, 110 °C) compared to traditional sunflower seed oil. Skin care.

Olus Oil (or)Canola Oil

Brassica Campestris Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil

5 – 15%

5 – 15%

5 – 15%

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Liquids

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High Stability Base Emollients

Semi-solidsAkogel™

Akogel Plus™

Semi-solid vegetable gel with paste-like consistency. Long shelf life (OSI >100h, 110 °C). Skin care and makeup.

Semi-solid vegetable gel with paste-like consistency. Long shelf life (OSI >100h, 110 °C). Skin care and makeup.



5 – 15%

5 – 15%

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structuring agents


Akofine R™

Akofine P™

Lipex BC™

Structurising vegetable triglyceride. High melting point(mp 58 – 60 °C) and good thermal stability. Stabilises oil based dispersions and increases texture in anhydrous and emulsion formulations. Skin care and makeup.

Structurising vegetable triglyceride. High melting point (mp 59 – 61 °C). Stabilises structure and increases temperature resistance in anhydrous formulations. Skin care and makeup.

Structurising triglyceride base for pencils and stick formulations. Sharp melting point at body temperature (mp 34 – 36 °C). Skin care and makeup.




1 – 5%

1 – 5%

5 – 15%

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Our structuring agents offer good crystallisation behaviour and a choice of melting profiles to enable you to achieve the desired texture and consistency for your skin care and colour cosmetic applications. Based on vegetable fats, these triglyceride ingredients are designed

to show good compatibility with other ingredients when structuring both emulsion and anhydrous formulations and are particularly suitable for cosmetic sticks and pencils.


emulsifiers & surfactants

Akoline MCM™

Akoline GC™

Akoline SL™

Akoline LC™

Akoline PG7™

Akoline PGPR™

Lipex 102 E75™

Medium chain mono-/diglyceride with high solubi-lisation capacity. Co-emulsifier for o/w emulsions. Suitable for microemulsion formulations. (HLB 8–9). Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Polar anionic/non-ionic o/w emulsifier. (HLB 11). Releases citric acid giving improved skin firmness and smoothness. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Highly polar anionic o/w emulsifier. (HLB 17). Stabilises liquid crystals. Releases lactic acid giving improved skin firmness and smoothness. Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Anionic emulsifier for o/w creams and lotions. (HLB 12). Can be used in cold processing.Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Non-ionic o/w emulsifier giving shiny emulsions. Stabilises liquid crystals. (HLB 7). Skin care, hair care and makeup.

An efficient non-ionic w/o emulsifier and dispersion stabiliser. (HLB 3–4). Skin care, hair care and makeup.

Water-soluble shea butter. Mild non-ionic surfactant. Improves viscosity and decreases irritancy in rinse-off hair and body care formulations.

Caprylic/Capric Glycerides

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides Citrate

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate

PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides

1 – 3%

1 – 4%

0,2 – 1%

1 – 3%

2 – 5%

2 – 5%

1 – 3%

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The composition of the emollient and emulsifier you choose will always influence the viscosity, stability and skin feel of your cosmetic formula-tion. Our Akoline range of vegetable derived emulsifiers comprises high quality ingredients renowned for their mildness. Well suited for natural skin care, they provide beautifully soft and elegant formulations.

When creating shampoos, liquid soaps, shower gels and other cleansing products, our water-soluble shea butter helps to reduce poten-tial eye and skin irritation typical of other surfactants. With good foaming properties and viscosity control, it is gentle enough to use in baby care products and formulations designed for sensitive skins.

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At AAK, we apply our experience and expertise to optimise the func-tionality of renewable, vegetable derived lipids. The AAK Academy is all about sharing our insights and know-how to make you a master in technical application, because the more you know about lipid technol-ogy, the easier it is to find the best solution for your formulation. As a customer of AAK Personal Care you have unique access to AAK’s team of lipid experts through the AAK Academy. Attending our courses enables product develop-

ers and formulators to learn more about the specialised technology and paves the way for open and constructive dialogue around future development opportunities.

For full details, please contact AAK Personal Care

Approvals & Certifications

Bioactives

Lipex SheaTris™

Emollients

Akogel™

Akogel Plus™

Akosoft 36™

Akosun™

Lipex Bassol C™

Lipex 102™

Lipex 106™

Lipex 109 S™

Lipex 120™

Lipex 205™

Lipex CocoaSoft™ Lipex IllipeSoft™

Lipex L’sens™

Lipex Omega 3/6™

Lipex PreAct™ Lipex Shea™

Lipex Shea W™

Lipex Shea WM™

Lipex SheaLight™

Lipex SheaSoft™

Lipex SheaLiquid™ TRLipex SheaClear™

Lipex SMP™

High Oleic Brassica Oil™

Structuring Agents

Akofine R™

Akofine P™

Lipex BC™

Emulsifiers

Akoline GC™

Akoline LC™

Akoline MCM™

Akoline PG7™

Akoline PGPR™

Akoline SL™

Products

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H0010301613

A0097AS

HALAL TAYYIB

There are a number of public and private standards governing natural cosmetics and we strive to provide ingredients that not only fulfil demands for functionality, but also provide compliance for approval by the various certifying bodies. Use the table on the right as a guide when selecting ingredients that are approved and/or certified according to specific standards. Please note that all our AAK Personal Care ingredients based on palm oil are sustainably sourced and certi-fied. For official certificates, letters of approval and status updates, please contact AAK Personal Care.

AAK ACADEMY™

the knowledge centre for lipid technology

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Topics

• Skin health

• Lipid chemistry

• Sustainable sourcing and processing

• Optimising functionality and skin feel

• Crystallisation and rheology

And so much more...

* pending

Version 1: 2018

AAK Sweden ABAAK Personal CareSE-374 82 Karlshamn SwedenPhone +46 454 820 00

AAK USA Inc.499 Thornall St., 5th FloorEdison, NJ 08837 USAPhone +1 973 741 5049

AAK China Ltd.6F, Building 6, #3601 Dongfang Road, Shanghai China 200125Phone +86 21 6466 7979

For contact information to our international distributors please visit aakpersonalcare.com

Documents

functional ingredients - AAK Personal Care · At AAK Personal Care we have over 30 years’ experience in developing and manufacturing high-performance, value-adding natural-based