FUERTEVENTURA

20th – 27th March 2010

By

Neal Warnock

Introduction:

The purpose of this trip was to try and see six fairly common resident birds and see what migrants I could find. I booked a self catering package and hire car through the On the Beach website and stayed at the excellent Cay Beach Villas in Caleta de Fustes. This resort is centrally based for all birding sites on the island and has two superb sites (Barranco de la Torre and Fuerteventura Golf Course) within a few kilometres. Only a single tank of diesel was needed for the entire trip. I managed to see my six target birds fairly easily within the first couple of days, but the trip will be remembered for the considerable array of rare, scarce and common migrants I managed to find. This included two American ducks, a tropical African stork and a wide variety of sub-Saharan/European migrants. Of the 80 species seen during the week, 11 were new to me. A highly successful outing.

Itinerary:

Sat 20 th – Arrived late afternoon. Quick look around Caleta de Fustes golf course and Las SalinasSun 21 st – Las Salinas, Barranco de la Torre, Tiscamanita, Los Molinos, El Cotillo, La OlivaMon 22 nd – Caleta de Fustes golf course, Las Salinas, Barranco de la Torre, Caleta de Fustes sewage works, Caleta de Fustes seawatchTues 23 rd – Los Gorriones, La Pared, Costa Calma, Punta del Mattoral, Pozo NegroWed 24 th – Caleta de Fustes golf course, Barranco de la Torre, Puerto Rosario dump and north shoreline, Caleta de Fustes sewage works, Los MolinosThurs 25 th – Las Oliva, Las Salinas, Caleta de Fustes golf course, Caleta de Fustes seawatchFri 26 th – Sandy plain south of Caleta de Fustes, Pajara, Las Penitas, sites around Caleta de Fustes and seawatchSat 27 th – Barranco de la Torre

Notes on sites and weather:

I had intended to visit the renowned reservoir at Catalina Garcia a few times during this trip but found it bone dry on 21st, so never returned. The seaward end of Barranco de la Torre seemed to be the best for migrants and can be accessed by continuing along a dirt track south from Las Salinas. The areas of Torre described in Clarke and Collins were very good for resident birds and migrant warblers, but were nearly completely dry during this trip. With only one or two tiny pools holding water. There was/is a vulture feeding station viewable from the bar at the top of the dirt track by turning right (heading north) after Tiscamanita –

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but I could not locate any birds – although I did see one just up the road. The birding sites around El Cotillo should be visited at first light as they were swarming with people when I visited in the afternoon. I found the small sewage works on the SW edge of the Caleta de Fustes resort, to be a good barometer for what might be around. It is surrounded by thick mature trees and always had variable numbers of passage migrants nearby – well worth keeping an eye on if based at this resort. A final word on the Costa Calma Wood – they are fairly sizable and it took me the best part of a day to thoroughly search both sides of the road. If short of time concentrate on the section closest to Jandia, which has the thickest undergrowth.

The three days preceding this trip had seen moderate south easterly winds, switching to the prevailing north easterlies on Saturday 20th evening. The winds remained from this general direction for the duration of the trip, but were very light during one day and night in the middle of the week. Days were warm, with mostly clear skies (22 – 260C) and birding was possible between 7am and 7pm. This weather pattern may have caused a considerable ‘fall’ of north-bound sub-Saharan migrants as the wind direction switched. A lull of incoming migrants occurred during the calm day in the middle of the week – with a noticeable exodus of common migrants, particularly warblers noted on 24th. As the wind strengthened again from the NE a trickle of new grounded migrants were noted. That’s my take on events anyway – maybe I just got lucky!

Resources:

A Birdwatchers’ Guide to the Canary Islands (1996) by Tony Clarke and David Collins. A little dated but most information still very useful. An indispensible resource throughout.

A wide variety of trip reports are available online. The ones I found of most help were by James Packer available here http://www.somersetbirder.co.uk/FUERTEVENTURA.htm which flags the potential of the Fuerteventura golf course at Caleta de Fustes as a migrant hotspot (good call James!) and a December 2009 trip report by fellow Irish birders available by following the trip reports link here http://www.dublinbirding.ie . Another useful report was by Tristan Norton et al. Available here http://www.birdtours.co.uk/tripreports/canaries/Fuerteventura-29/Fuerteveentura-march-09.htm .

Diary: (species in bold type denoted firsts for the trip)

Sat 20 th : After the now customary mix up with the hire car, I arrived at the Cay Beach Villas in Caleta de Fustes later than expected. There was only a couple of hours of light left, so I headed straight to the nearby Fuerteventura Golf course to see if I could get a feel for what migrants were about. The first lake you come to heading south from the resort (described from here on as the NE lake) held a couple of Common Sandpipers and a Ruddy Shelduck. Overhead large numbers of Swallows and Sand Martins were joined by several Plain Swifts

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and 2 Pallid Swifts – the first of my target birds. Two Berthelot’s Pipits reminded me of their distinctive call as I returned to the car. During this first visit to the NE lake, I noticed a small channel running into the lake with a series of stony banks and bridges, that I thought looked good for a rare pipit or wader.

The second lake along the main coast road (accessed from the second roundabout and turning right) will from here on be referred to as the ‘middle lake’, had a flock of 26 Yellow Wagtails and a female Wheatear feeding on one of the greens. The lake held 3 Coots and had soft vegetated margins, where several Spanish Sparrows were feeding. I recall saying to myself “looks good for a yank duck”! A left turn at the second roundabout south of town brings you to the SE lake, which held a pair of Ruddy Shelduck with 11 young chicks.

A quick dash was made to Las Salinas to look for some waders, but early morning is definitely the best time to visit here as only a couple of Ringed Plover were seen. Nevertheless the rocky pool beyond the salt pools held a single Spoonbill and a Grey Heron. A couple of Sandwich Terns were feeding offshore and several Yellow-legged Gulls were either on the rocks or passing by offshore. The first pair of Hoopoes was also seen here.

As the last embers of light fell, I went to suss out the seawatching headland on the northern edge of Caleta de Fustes and was just in time to make out small numbers of northward bound Cory’s Shearwaters.

I returned to the villa believing that the good numbers of common migrants I had just seen promised bigger and better things to come...

Sun 21 st :

I began the day back at Las Salinas at first light to find the Spoonbill and Grey Heron had been joined by a Little Egret and several Turnstones. I parked at the ‘no entry’ sign along the main road to access the Barranco de la Torre and a brief wonder across the other side of the road revealed a decent flock of Lesser Short-toed Larks and a pair of Great Grey Shrikes. As I crossed the road back towards the car an unusual raptor flew low in front of me and perched on a distant boulder. It was only a Common Buzzard- but a very pale bird of the endemic Canaries subspecies. I walked down the lane and into the barranco and in between the incessant chirping of Spanish Sparrows I could hear the low purring of 2 Turtle Doves, which were later located perched on top of the steep barranco cliffs.

The lush vegetation up and down the barranco held 15+ Sardinian Warblers, while around 3 pairs of Spectacled Warblers scratched their way from shrub to shrub as I made my way east. I climbed down the red sand bank to a small pool below and sat in the undergrowth, over the next 10 minutes several Chiffchaffs and a single Willow Warbler passed through

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feeding in trees beside me and a couple paused for a quick splash in the pool. As I rounded the next corner a Barbary Partridge sprang to life and peered at me form beside a bush long enough to give great views before it shot off into cover. Next up was a party of 3 Trumpeter Finches, including a fine male, the 2nd of my target species, working their way along the cliff face opposite. I then heard the familiar sound of a chat and spotted a fine male Fuerteventura Chat calling from the top of a thorny shrub; making it 3 target birds seen in the process. The only other species seen here was a rather skulking male Blackcap near to where the thick vegetation ends at the eastern end of this section of the barranco.

My next stop was at the golf course at Las Playas, which to my eye should attract many migrants, based on its SE location and its several small lakes and grassy fairways. However, I found this area rather devoid of bird life and quickly continued northwards towards Tuineje. My disappointment continued when I found Catalina Garcia reservoir bone dry and bird less. Further north along the FV-20, I turned right into the hills after the village of Tiscamanita and scanned from the bar at the top to try and locate any feeding Egyptian Vultures which, according to the trip report by Norton et al. feed on goat carcasses that are left out for them on the vast rocky landscape below. I failed to see any; maybe they don’t feed them here anymore, or was I just there at the wrong time of day? Who knows?

My luck changed a few kilometres further up the road when an adult Egyptian Vulture passed over the car heading south. Perhaps it was feeding time after all I thought. Then just as I was turning off the FV-20 onto the FV-30 towards Los Molinos, south of Castillas de Angel I caught sight of a number of swifts over the valley. I ditched the hire car by the side of the road and immediately a flock of 5 Pallid Swifts passed close overhead, followed by a couple of Plain Swifts. A single House Martin and a Corn Bunting were also seen here. The vulture was target bird number 4.

From here I drove to the village of Las Parcelas and located the turn off to Los Molinos reservoir by the goat farm (it’s all fairly obvious). A few hundred metres down the track movement to my left directed my attention to 3 bobbing heads running alongside the car, some 20 metres away – 3 Cream-coloured Coursers. Another target bird secured and what superb birds they are too. Unfortunately I didn’t realise at the time that these would be the best views I would get of this species and so I didn’t bother taking any photos.

I was pleased to find the lake still held plenty of water and, as was immediately obvious – plenty of Ruddy Shelduck too. It was hard to distinguish whether the strange noises echoing across the valley were from a shelduck or from one of the many goats that were now following me down the track. I estimated somewhere around 60 shelduck were present around the lake but the true number may have been more as they were fairly restless, flying in and out from all angles – one flock was joined by 2 further Cream-coloured Coursers which must have been down near the water. A pair of shelduck was also seen with 4 chicks

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in toe. Other birds noted at the reservoir included a pair of Eurasian Teal, 10 Coot, 4 Black-winged Stilt, 10 Kentish Plover (including a pair with 3 chicks in the SE corner), several Little Ringed Plover, 1 or 2 Ringed Plover, 2 Common Sandpiper, 6 Greenshanks and a single Snipe feeding out in the open. I slowly made my way back towards the goat farm stopping to scan the stony plain for desert species, but none were seen. However a further 2 Yellow Wagtails were seen feeding beside a horse in the goat farm enclosure. Weird set up that place – with a good few goats sitting in empty bath tubs with nothing in them – no really!

Onwards then to La Oliva to suss out the Houbara stakeouts I had read about in Clarke and Collins and in a very recent trip report by fellow Northern Irish birders published in a local newsletter. I found both easily enough – so made my way NW to El Cotillo to check out the shore for waders and the stony plain south of town for desert species. I simply did not get a good feel for this place; the bays were full of sunbathers and surfers and the stony plain vast and uninspiring. I made a hasty retreat back to La Oliva and checked a number of gardens around the village for migrants, scoring a Willow Warbler and a pair of Turtle Doves in one, but little else. I returned to the area described in Clarke and Collins and parked the car at a good vantage point to wait for the bustards to come down to feed in the cultivations. Hours passed and not a dickey bird. I waited until just after 6pm and as I was beginning to fall asleep with my eye stuck to the scope, I made my way to the other location not far away described by my Northern Irish counterparts. Another fruitless half hour was spent here and as plastic bag (and in the latter stages goat) syndrome began to kick in I headed home bustardless.

Mon 22 nd : Today was the day. Things started off in the pitch black at 06:30am as I arrived at the NE lake at the Caleta de Fustes Golf course. Over the fence I went and in the gloomy depths of the small lake sat a drake Ring-necked Duck. Further covert tactics ensued as I dropped to my knees, scrambling to get my digiscoping gear set up at the same time. I turned the camera on and crawled along the ground towards the lake thinking surely the duck hadn’t seen me and I would be rewarded with great photo opportunities as the sun came up and I was lying only a few feet from the bird by the side of the lake. All was going swimmingly until I looked up to find the bird had vanished, only to be replaced by a Common Redshank looking nervously towards this strange creature lurking about a golf course in the dark. Utter panic took over – had I seen a duck at all? Where had it gone? And was I still sleeping?

As the sun climbed above the hotels in town a few shafts of light hit the golf course. I scanned the far end when I noticed a small duck sitting on the grass with the Muscovy trash. I put the scope on it – female Blue-winged Teal. What the hell was happening here? I approached cautiously, determined not to let this one get away and to at least get some semblance of a record shot. This bird wasn’t going to play ball either as it began to waddle across the fairway further away from me. And then the penny dropped – its going towards

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that channel you saw the other night, I said to myself. With this in mind I made my way (quietly sprinted) to a vantage point overlooking the small channel. A few moments later came one of the highlights of my sapling birding career, as the Blue-winged Teal entered the channel and swam up towards the stone bridge and sat directly beside the Ring-necked Duck. Camera ready, fingers steady (err no not exactly!).

Above right is the best shot I could manage and soon the birds flew further up the channel as the greenkeepers began to noisily arrive at their nearby shed. I took a final quick look around the lake and made doubly sure none of the four sandpipers present were of the spotted variety.

From here it was onto the middle lake where a Grey Heron stood by the water’s edge. Six Kentish plover were scurrying about the fairways and it was while watching these that I stumbled across a flock of pipits and wagtails. This consisted of 5 Meadow Pipits, 3 Yellow Wagtails, a White Wagtail and a Red-throated Pipit. The latter species seems to becoming more regular at this location, but was still another superb find and a lifer for me. As I was returning to the car a

Woodchat Shrike (pictured above left) appeared on the fence in front of me – whatever next?

The SE lake still had the pair of Ruddy Shelduck with 11 chicks and a flock of 25 Swallows, but no further surprises. It was still only around 08:30am so I dashed off to Las Salinas before the hordes of tourists arrived to see if any migrant waders had dropped in. I noted 2 Kentish Plovers, a Grey Plover, 2 Whimbrel and a Dunlin. I drove around the corner from Las Salinas towards the seaward end of Barranco de la Torre and was interrupted by the sight of a Houbara Bustard crossing the plain before taking off and flying inland – my 6th and final target bird for the trip.

I set off on foot around the clumps of bushes and palm trees at the seaward end of the barranco and it was obvious there had been a considerable influx of migrants; Chiffchaffs at least were in every bush. A flock of hirundines feeding around a single large palm and

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around the cliff face was comprised of 50 Barn Swallows, a single House Martin and 3 Red-rumped Swallows. A spoonbill was seen in flight overhead heading in the direction of Las Salinas before a Buzzard and then another Egyptian Vulture hung overhead. Deeper into the Barranco there is a series of 3 cleared areas surrounded on two sides by large tamarisks which held a further 2 Woodchat Shrikes. I ventured up the path until the no entry signs near a left hand bend to a farm and made my way back along the edge of some small cultivations, when suddenly I flushed a heron from the bottom of the cliff. It only flew a few metres before landing again. Although the bird was heavily silhouetted by the low morning sun, the long thin bill told me that it was not a Grey Heron. At that instant it took off and looked lost as it flew around in circles above me, before alighting on top of one of the tall palms flushing a buzzard in the process. The bird was easily identified in flight as a Purple Heron.

I took one last walk through the cleared areas with the tamarisks and discovered the fresh looking remains of a Helmeted Guineafowl, but I suspect this didn’t arrive in the fall of migrants.

I returned to the villa for lunch and began to realise what a mornings birding I had just had. Afterwards I took a leisurely stroll along the seafront at Caleta de Fustes and checked the hotel gardens for passerines and the rocky shoreline for waders. However 2 Trumpeter Finches feeding on weeds on the beach were the only birds of note. I then drove up to the thick patch of trees on the SW edge of the resort (easily seen from the main road) to discover they were hiding the local sewage works. Ignoring the smell I burst into a bout of pishing, which immediately paid dividends when several Chiffchaffs and 2 Willow Warblers popped their heads out for a look. A few minutes later a Turtle Dove shot out from the trees and a small warbler flew out past me to the trees opposite. This bird looked interesting, with a lot of red on its frontal parts.

I moved over to where the bird had flown and resumed pishing, which only served to bring in the ‘phyllosc’ species already seen. After several more minutes the bird popped up onto a few bare limbs. It was an adult male Subalpine Warbler, yet another lifer for me and yet another pleasing find on an outstanding days birding.

The day ended with the first concerted seawatch off the small headland north of Caleta de Fustes. Between 17:00 and 18:00 in 20-25mph NNE winds 228 Cory’s Shearwaters and 4 Sandwich Terns were noted heading north.

Tues 23 rd :

After all yesterdays’ excitement around Caleta de Fustes, I decided to see what migrants were around one of the islands other hotspots today – the wood at Costa Calma. My first

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stop however was at the Hotel Los Gorriones (sign posted as Playa Barca after Costa Calma) and the long stretch of beach and tidal lagoons. The fact that this is a nudist’s beach necessitates a first light visit. This area is historically good for waders, so I was disappointed to only find a Greenshank and 25 Sanderling here. Nevertheless, from the high ground at the hotel I could see a number of interesting birds in the distance to my right, which included what appeared to be a White Stork.

As I set off down the beach and waded through the first lagoon where it enters the sea, the first small group of Sanderlings were feeding by the water’s edge. On the inland shore of the

lagoon sat 6 little Egrets and scanning further ahead was the stork. This was no White Stork after all, but an adult Yellow-billed Stork – a rare visitor to the Canaries from tropical Africa (see picture, left). Further south at the mouth of the lagoon were 4 Spoonbills, 12 Sandwich Terns and several Lesser Black-backed Gulls.

I walked back towards the hotel via the inland scrub and channels. This area held a few pairs of Spectacled Warblers and a Great Grey Shrike. Looking back towards the hotel from the beach I thought the grounds were worth a quick search for passerine migrants. This produced nothing unusual - a Turtle Dove, 3 Blackcaps and 4 singing Willow Warblers, but I would not be at all surprised if these grounds held a mega in the future.

From here I returned to the main road and turned right back towards Costa Calma and then turned inland towards La Pared. The track to the left mentioned in Clarke and Collins is not terribly obvious, mostly due to there no longer being any sign of a fence. Despite this I still found my way onto the stony plain looking down on the wind farm. Once out on the plain the first birds noted were pairs of Little Ringed Plovers and Kentish Plover, whose behaviour suggested they were both breeding here. Next I flushed a large flock of Lesser Short-toed Larks and as I watched them land further down the hill, a bird sat on a rock caught my attention. I was amazed to identify this as an adult male Common Redstart – not one of the desert species I was after here!

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Not believing my eyes, I set off down the slope to try and get better views through the scope, and soon enough found the bird again flitting around the low scrub (classic record

shot below). This was another life bird, but I was hoping to see it at Costa Calma Wood, not in the middle of a desert! I wandered further downhill scanning every now and again for desert species and eventually saw 5 Black-bellied Sandgrouse in the distance, which almost immediately flushed upon me seeing them and flew up the hill over my head. I reached the low point of the plain and walked west along

the ridge before climbing back up towards the car. In this area I finally managed some great views of the larks and was pleased to discover a flock of 15 Short-toed Larks amongst the many Lesser’s.

It was now nearing 11am, so I drove to the Costa Calma Woods and parked at the SW end to begin my search. Willow Warblers and Chiffchaffs were commonplace and it wasn’t long before another male Subalpine Warbler was seen and heard. Linnets and Goldfinches were both common throughout the wood and the occasional Hoopoe appeared along the path (see photo right). I soon caught up with another male Common Redstart,

after it flew down the path in front of me. Certain sections of the wood had short weedy undergrowth and many birds were seen feeding in these areas. A careful scan in one area revealed 2 Tree Pipits and 5 male Blackcaps were singing in others. I searched the wood on the seaward side of the road until it ended by a roundabout in town; the time was now 13:30pm so I retired to the car for lunch. I decided I couldn’t face checking the other side of the road straight away, so I drove south towards Morro Jable and the lighthouse at Punta del Mattoral.

As I got out of the car opposite the lighthouse, a Monk Parakeet noisily flew past the busy cafes along the promenade. I walked along the boardwalk and out towards the lighthouse checking the saline scrub for migrants. However a Cattle Egret was just about the only bird I saw here. Several introduced Barbary Ground Squirrels (or ‘chipmunks’ as everyone seems to call them) were being hand fed by tourists at the base of the light. I checked some gardens in town and found a Yellow Wagtail feeding on the lawn outside the Stella Canaries ‘zoo’ complex.

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I returned to Costa Calma Wood determined to give the other side of the road a thorough search and was rewarded when a further 5 Tree Pipits were seen moving through the trees. However no other birds of note were found. I made a quick visit to the grounds around Oasis Park (of Black and White Warbler fame) but found nothing of interest. I was now running low on energy levels, so I headed in the direction of Caleta de Fustes and along the way decided to take a short detour off the main FV-2 road to Pozo Negro. I had read this was a good site for the endemic chat and hoped there would be some good photographic opportunities to be had.

Sure enough a pair of Fuerteventura Chats was on the slope opposite the picnic area, but sadly I could not get anywhere near the photogenic male. Typically the rather plain female

posed at will (pictured left). In much the same area as the chats a female Woodchat Shrike1 also put in a brief appearance. I made a final stop at Las Salinas, which failed to add any additions to the trip list. However, upon entering Caleta de Fustes and taking the exit road to the villa, a Bee-eater flew across the road. As I parked the car outside the complex, I could hear several more in the distance and 3 were perched on the palms by the swimming pool. I returned to the villa, grabbed a cold beer and sat outside. Over the next half hour a minimum of 20 Bee-eaters were seen.

Wed 24 th : Today was to be one of those now traditional mid-trip ‘quiet days’. A quick check around the golf course in the morning saw that both American ducks were still present at the NE lake, but no new arrivals were to be found. A similar picture was evident at Barranco de la Torre, where at least one of the Woodchat Shrikes was still present at the seaward end. However it was obvious both here and in the main barranco that little or no ‘phyllosc’ type warblers were present. I did manage to see a Moorhen and flush 3 Snipe near the only small reed bed and there were now over 10 Turtle doves around the cliff face.

I checked the trees around the sewage works on the edge of Caleta de Fustes town, where the only warbler present was the Subalpine, found on the previous visit. I was pleased to note that at least 10 of the Bee-eaters from yesterday were still in and around the resort.

From here I went in search of the dump west of Puerto Rosario to look through the gulls. The dump can be found by taking the first exit before Rosario towards Castillo del Angel and taking a left onto a dirt track just beyond a number of car garages. Alternatively take this road and look for the swarm of circling gulls above the hill – that’s how I found it!

1 This was the 4th different bird of this species found on 22nd and 23rd. It was interesting to read that a group of birders noted a large fall of Woodchat Shrikes (1000+ birds) along the Moroccan coast on the 22nd March.

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There is a small goat farm half way along the dirt track and the gulls seem to roost here during the day. In a flock of c.100 Yellow-legged Gulls, I could make out just 6 Lesser Black-backed Gulls, but was surprised to see a male Fuerteventura Chat and 3 Grey Herons by the roadside. Four Buzzards and numerous Ravens were joined by a sub-adult Egyptian Vulture circling and scavenging around the dump.

I drove into Rosario town and somehow managed to find myself at the base of the lighthouse, where I discovered a track running south along the shoreline most of the way towards the port. This stretch of coast was good for waders. I noted 15 Ringed Plover, 4 Grey Plover, 13 Sanderling, c.25 Turnstone, 4 Common Sandpiper and a Whimbrel during a short visit here. After lunch at the villa, a long siesta was called for.

By 4pm I was well rested and drove the half hour or so to Los Molinos reservoir, along the track passed the goat farm an adult Egyptian Vulture moved through the valley. The reservoir itself held much the same species as the last visit, but there were now 18 Ruddy Shelduck chicks, only 2 Black-winged Stilts and only 1 of the Kentish Plover chicks in the SE corner remained. A male Wheatear flew alongside me as I walked down the track towards the hide (looks fairly new, it was locked on both visits and you will flush all the birds by the time you get to it), where I sat out the front and waited for the birds to settle down again. As I waited 10 Trumpeter Finches fed not far away from me and a Barbary Falcon swooped through the area. A couple of Sand Martins were seen around the dam wall on my return to the car. I decided to do a loop around the sandy plain above the reservoir in search of the ever elusive desert species and enjoyed distant views of a group of 6 Cream-coloured Coursers scrambling about the dirt.

Thurs 25 th :

An early morning visit to La Oliva and the cultivations to the south of the village failed to produce any further exciting discoveries. Another Woodchat Shrike was the best and a number of Willow Warblers, the occasional Blackcap and many Swallows were also seen. However this area was noteworthy for the abundance of Linnets, Corn Buntings and

Hoopoes found there.

The Rosa de Los Negrines area off the El Cotillo road was perhaps the greenest area of cultivations and held many of the same species. However 3 overwintering Meadow Pipits and a Laughing Dove were also seen here and 5 Plain Swifts and an Egyptian Vulture were seen overhead. This area also held many Lesser Short-toed Larks and some confiding Berthelot’s Pipits (pictured left).

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I returned to Caleta de Fustes and visited Las Salinas, where the usual suspects were present including 14 Sandwich Terns, the highest count of the week. I then returned to the villa for lunch and another siesta. After this rather unproductive morning expectations were low as I pulled up to the middle lake at the golf course. However right outside the car window 4 Meadow Pipits sat motionless on the footpath and as I got out of the car they barely moved – recent arrivals surely. Four Willow Warblers were in a single tiny bush in the central reservation area between the main FV-2 and the side road that runs alongside the golf course. The pipits eventually flew over and started feeding in this narrow strip of irrigated land and while looking through these, a male Whinchat appeared in view, perched on top of a rock.

I walked further down the road to get a better view of the lake and saw the usual Coots and Kentish Plovers, when suddenly a large raptor flew in off the sea and landed in the small

grassy lake margin. I had great views of the bird and made some mental notes but became distracted by the surreal picture that appeared in my bins, as a golfer made a ham-fisted attempt at getting out of a bunker directly in front of the bird! It took flight and flew low around the edge of the lake, then took a bee-line towards a Little Egret which made a swift exit right. I found it rather amusing that all the golfers were staring at the strange man peering through the fence, failing to notice the hulking

great eagle flying around their heads! It’s pale ‘landing lights’ were the most obvious give away to its identification – a dark phased Booted Eagle (another classic record shot above). As it flew only a few feet over my head, it paused at the sight of the sea, doubled back over me, gained height and drifted inland towards the hills, displaying all the classic features of this rare visitor to the Canaries.

Another check of the NE lake revealed that the Ring-necked Duck and Blue-winged Teal were both still present (pictured below), but no further arrivals were noted.

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I took a quick refreshment break back at the villa and was delighted to find that one of the 4 Bee-eaters I had just seen near the golf course was now perched in the palm tree beside the villa (pictured right) pausing just long enough for me to ready my camera. An hour’s seawatch from the Caleta de Fustes headland from 16:30 in 20mph NE winds produced 355 Cory’s Shearwaters and 8 adult Gannets moving north.

Fri 26 th :

This morning I made my final attempt to see some desert species on the stony plain south of Caleta de Fustes, buoyed by seeing a bustard flying this direction a few days ago. However an hour and half later, all I had seen were Lesser Short-toed Larks and Berthelot’s Pipits, so I gave up and drove to Pajara.

The park and church grounds in the centre of town have some mature trees and are said to be good for wintering and migrant passerines. I would advise an early morning start as, unless you feel confident pishing at birds surrounded by cafes and streets full of locals, the birds will be hard to see. Despite this I could hear two singing Blackcaps and found a female in a flowering shrub in a quieter spot. Small numbers of Spectacled Warblers were at the far end of the car park.

From Pajara I took the mountain road towards Betancuria and stopped at the first large mirador for a look around. The steep slope below held a single Trumpeter Finch and a male Fuerteventura Stonechat. This was also a great place to see Buzzards, Kestrels and Ravens – the former looked tiny in such grandiose surroundings. From just beyond this lookout I could see that the reservoir at Las Penitas was bone dry (shock?) – but the barranco leading to it looked worth a look. The main reason for coming here was to look for African Blue Tit and at least 4 were present at the far end of the surfaced road at Vego de Rio Palmas, feeding in a small orchard. Several Spectacled Warblers, a Willow Warbler and 4 Goldfinches (including a juvenile) were in this area.

I took a stroll down into the barranco and was struck by the large numbers of Sardinian Warblers and Turtle Doves in the area, but was equally dumbfounded by the complete lack of anything else. It was sheer joy then, which greeted the sight of a European Robin back at the top of the path. I never thought I would be so pleased to see a Robin! Another male Blackcap burst into song as I sat in the car contemplating my next move.

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I couldn’t help myself having another quick check around the golf course and sewage works in Caleta, but this failed to add to the list of birds already seen. The male Whinchat was still working the fence line and central reservation at the middle lake and 2 Bee-eaters remained in the general area. The NE lake was off limits as some sort of greenkeepers convention was taking place on the green next to it, so I thought better of wandering on to check if the 2 American ducks were still present.

The prevailing NE wind was as strong as it had been all week (25-30mph), so I spent an hour from 15:45 seawatching from the small headland north of the resort. A tally of 200 Cory’s Shearwaters, 4 Gannets and 2 Sandwich Terns was surprisingly paltry given the conditions.

Sat 27 th :

My mid-morning return flight permitted just enough time for a quick dash around Barranco de la Torre. But this only revealed more of what was seen on previous visits. Somehow I didn’t think I could top my first couple of days.

Systematic species list: (based on order in Collins 2nd Ed.) * denotes lifer.

1. Ruddy Shelduck

Common across island near any fresh water. Over 60 adults and 18 chicks were at Los Molinos and a pair on Caleta de Fustes golf course had 11 young.

2. Eurasian Teal

A pair was at Los Molinos on 21st and 24th.

3. Blue-winged Teal

An adult female was found at the NE lake on Caleta de Fustes golf course on 22nd. It was still present on the 25th. A vagrant to the Canary Islands and a Spanish rarity.

4. Ring-necked Duck

An adult male was found at the NE lake on Caleta de Fustes golf course on 22nd. It was still present on the 25th. Both North American ducks were closely associating with one another. A vagrant to the Canary Islands and a Spanish rarity.

5. Barbary Partridge

A single observation at Barranco de la Torre on 21st.

6. Cory’s Shearwater

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Easily seen from all coasts throughout the day. They highest count was 355 in an hour on the 25th from the headland at Caleta de Fustes.

7. Northern Gannet

Small numbers heading north past Caleta de Fustes, with 8 in an hour on 25th and 4 in an hour the next day. All adults.

8. Cattle Egret

A single bird was seen in the coastal scrub at Punta del Mattoral on 23rd.

9. Little Egret

Frequent around the coast. The highest count was a flock of 6 at Los Gorriones on 23rd.

10. Grey Heron

Several seen across the island, including at inland locations.

11. Purple Heron

An adult was flushed at the seaward end of Barranco de la Torre on 22nd. It landed on top of a nearby tamarisk. A scarce migrant to the Canaries.

12. Yellow-billed Stork*

An adult bird was at the lagoon north of Los Gorriones on 23rd. With previous sightings in this area in 2000, 2005 and 2009 – this is presumably a returning bird. A Vagrant to the Canary Islands or an escape? There seems to be some confusion over the status of these sightings, buts it’s going on my list for now!

13. Eurasian Spoonbill

Scarce around the coast. A high count of 4 birds at Los Gorriones on 23 rd was notable and a bird seen flying towards the sea from the Barranco de la Torre at first light on 22 nd was probably the bird present at nearby Las Salinas all week, leaving its roost site.

14. Egyptian Vulture*

Several single sightings. Adults were seen south of Antigua, over the Barranco de la Torre, La Oliva and Los Molinos and a sub-adult was at the dump west of Puerto Rosario.

15. Booted Eagle

A dark phase bird flew in off the sea and landed by the ‘middle lake’ at Caleta de Fustes Golf on 25th. It chased off a Little Egret, flew only a few metres over my head before gaining height and heading NW over the mountains. A rare passage migrant.

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16. Common Buzzard

Common across the island. Several breeding pairs located. High numbers in the hills around Las Penitas with up to 8 birds present there on 26th.

17. Common Kestrel

Common across the island.

18. Barbary Falcon

A single sighting at Los Molinos on 25th.

19. Common Moorhen

One bird flushed from the small patch of reeds at Barranco de la Torre on 24th and heard again there on 27th.

20. Eurasian Coot

Around 10 birds present at Los Molinos on both visits and 3 birds on the ‘middle lake’ at Fuerteventura Golf course, Caleta de Fuste throughout.

21. Houbara Bustard*

Superb views of a single bird above Barranco de la Torre on 22nd. None seen at regular stakeouts across the island including La Oliva and La Pared.

22. Black-winged Stilt

4 birds at Los Molinos on 21st had reduced to 2 by 24th.

23. Cream-coloured Courser*

3 birds on the stony plain above Los Molinos and 2 seen in flight leaving the reservoir on the 21st. A group of 6 were seen on the plain above Los Molinos on the 24th.

24. Little Ringed Plover

Common around island with 7 at Los Molinos on 24th and breeding pairs at Barranco de la Torre and La Pared.

25. Common Ringed Plover

Common around the coast with 15 along the shoreline north of Puerto Rosario on 24th.

26. Kentish Plover

Fairly common around the island. Up to 10 birds were present at Los Molinos on 21 st, with a breeding pair with 3 chicks in the SE corner. Smaller numbers were recorded at this site on

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24th, when sadly only 1 chick remained. A pair suspected of breeding were on the stony plain at La Pared on 23rd and 6 birds were around the Caleta de Fustes Golf course throughout – check around the bunkers!

27. Grey Plover

Uncommon around the coast. A single bird was at Las Salinas throughout and 4 birds along the shoreline north of Puerto Rosario on the 24th.

28. Sanderling

Fairly common around the coast with high counts of 25 at Los Gorriones on 23rd and 13 along the north shoreline of Puerto Rosario on 24th.

29. Turnstone

Common. Twenty-five were along the north shoreline of Puerto Rosario on 24th and there were always a few around the rock pools at Las Salinas.

30. Dunlin

A single bird at Las Salinas on 22nd.

31. Common Sandpiper

One or two birds present near any freshwater with 4 at Caleta de Fustes Golf course on 22nd and 4 along the north shoreline of Puerto Rosario on 24th.

32. Common Redshank

A single bird was at Caleta de Fustes Golf course on 22nd.

33. Common Greenshank

Uncommon away from Los Molinos, which had 6 birds on 21st and similar numbers on the next visit.

34. Whimbrel

One or two birds present throughout the week at Las Salinas and single birds along the rocky shoreline at Caleta de Fustes and Puerto Rosario.

35. Common Snipe

Single bird present at Los Molinos on both visits and 3 birds flushed at the Barranco de la Torre on 24th and 2 there on 27th.

36. Yellow-legged Gull

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Abundant. Large numbers over and around the dump west of Puerto Rosario on 24th. Often seen inland.

37. Lesser Black-backed Gull

Only a small number seen. 6 were roosting in a flock of c.100 Yellow-legged Gulls at the dump on 24th and several were at the lagoon at Los Gorriones on 23rd.

38. Sandwich Tern

Common around all coasts. Flocks of 12 at Los Gorriones on 23rd and 14 at Las Salinas on 25th.

39. Black-bellied Sandgrouse

Five on the stony plain at La Pared on 23rd.

40. Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon

Feral birds ubiquitous but some birds around several barrancos were likely to be pure Rock Doves.

41. Collared Dove

On top of every post, palm and picnic table on the island.

42. Turtle Dove

Common migrant and summer visitor. Up to 10 birds were at Barranco de la Torre on 24 th. Several were around La Oliva, including some in gardens. Up to 3 birds were seen at the sewage works in Caleta de Fustes and 10+ were at Las Penitas on 26th.

43. Laughing Dove

An adult male was seen at the cultivations at Rosa de Los Negrines, La Oliva on 25th.

44. Pallid Swift*

Two over Caleta de Fustes Golf course on 20th and 5 were at the turnoff for Los Molinos near Castillas del Angel on 21st.

45. Plain Swift

Several over Caleta de Fustes Golf Course on 20th, 2 were at the turnoff for Los Molinos near Castillas del Angel on 21st and 5 at La Oliva on 25th.

46. Eurasian Hoopoe

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Abundant across much of the island, particularly around La Oliva. However none were seen around Las Penitas.

47. European Bee-eater

A flock of 20 were over the hotel pool and gardens on 23rd, 10 were still present the next day near the sewage works, 4 were at the golf course and/or villa on 25th and 2 were around the hotel again on 26th and 27th. A fairly common migrant to the Canaries.

48. Monk Parakeet

A single observation at Punta del Mattoral on 23rd. A feral population has established itself in this area from escaped cage birds.

49. Short-toed Lark

A flock of 15 birds were seen well on the stony plain at La Pared on 23rd. An uncommon visitor to the island.

50. Lesser Short-toed Lark

Common and widespread. A large flock was above the Barranco de la Torre on 21st and several sizeable flocks were on the plain at La Pared on 23 rd. Good numbers also around the edges of the cultivations in La Oliva and above Los Molinos reservoir.

51. Sand Martin

100+ were over Caleta de Fustes Golf course on the evening of the 20th. Two were at Los Molinos on 24th and the odd one or two were seen elsewhere on the island most days.

52. Barn Swallow

Large numbers (a few hundred at least) were over the golf course on the evening of the 20 th. 50+ were at the seaward end of Barranco de la Torre on 22nd, with a further 25 over the golf course on the same day. No large flocks were noted after this, but a steady trickle of birds passed over the cultivations at La Oliva throughout the morning of the 25th, could have easily totalled over one hundred birds.

53. Red-rumped Swallow

Three were with 50 Swallows and a House Martin at the seaward end of Barranco de la Torre on 22nd. A further bird was caught up in the influx of Bee-eaters on the 23 rd and passed close over the villa on several occasions. An uncommon passage migrant to the island.

54. House Martin

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Surprisingly only 2 birds were seen during the whole week, but then this species is known to migrate later than the other hirundines. Single birds were at Barranco de la Torre on 22nd

and another single at the turnoff for Los Molinos near Castillas del Angel on 21st.

55. Berthelot’s Pipit

Common and widespread resident.

56. Meadow Pipit

The five birds seen at Caleta de Fustes Golf course on 22nd and 4 exhausted looking birds by the fence line there on 25th were probably passing through. While 3 birds seen at La Oliva on the 25th, may have overwintered. A fairly good bird for the island at any time of year.

57. Tree Pipit*

A total of 7 birds were found in the ‘wood’ at Costa Calma on 23rd including a feeding flock of 5. This species is common on passage in the eastern Canaries.

58. Red-throated Pipit*

A male type was with a mixed flock of Pipits and Wagtails at Caleta de Fuste Golf on 22 nd. This species is considered a rarity on the islands, but sightings at this golf course in recent years appear to be increasing.

59. White Wagtail

A single observation at Caleta de Fustes Golf course on 22nd.

60. Yellow Wagtail

A fairly common migrant, but a flock of 26 birds (mostly males of the iberiae subspecies) at Caleta de Fustes Golf course on the evening of the 20th was notable. Two more were at the goat farm at the start of the track to Los Molinos on 21st and 3 remained at the golf course on the 22nd. The only other bird seen was feeding on the grass outside Stella Canaries in Punta del Mattoral on 23rd.

61. European Robin

A single sighting at the beginning of the barranco at Las Penitas on 26th. An uncommon species at any time of year.

62. Common Redstart*

An adult male was in some low scrub on the stony plain near La Pared on 23rd and another male was in the Costa Calma wood on the same day. A fairly common migrant.

63. Northern Wheatear

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A female was on the golf course at Caleta de Fustes on the evening of the 20 th and a male was above Los Molinos reservoir on the 24th. A common passage migrant.

64. Whinchat

A male was found in the shrubs by the road in front of the Caleta de Fustes golf course on the 25th and was still present around the edge of the golf course on the 27 th. A fairly common migrant to the island.

65. Fuerteventura Stonechat*

This endemic species was common in dry barrancos across the island. Pairs were seen at Barranco de la Torre, Pozo Negro and south of La Oliva. Single males were seen near the dump in Puerto Rosario and at the first mirador between Pajara and Betancuria. Unusually, a lone female was at the Caleta de Fustes Golf course on 25th.

66. Blackcap

Common migrant seen at several locations across the island. A male was at Barranco de la Torre on 21st. Two males and a female were in the gardens of the hotel at Los Gorriones and 5 males were in Costa Calma Wood on 23rd, one of which was heard singing. Another singing male was at La Oliva on 25th and 2 singing males and a female were around the park and church in Pajara on 26th and a final male was in the barranco at Las Penitas the same day.

67. Sardinian Warbler

Common Resident. Several birds at Barranco de la Torre and Las Penitas. Present in taller vegetation.

68. Spectacled Warbler

Common Resident. A few pairs at Torre and several around the cultivations at La Oliva – a pair also observed in a garden in the village. Two pairs near Castillas del Angel on 21st. Present in low vegetation.

69. Subalpine Warbler*

A male found at Caleta de Fustes sewage works on 22nd, was still present on the 24th. Another male was found in Costa Calma Wood on 23rd. A scarce migrant to the eastern Canaries.

70. Willow Warbler

Common migrant. Seen across the island, often in good numbers. Four were in song in the Los Gorriones gardens on 23rd and many were around Costa Calma Wood the same day.

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Several birds were in song around the cultivations at La Oliva on 25 th and 4 recent arrivals were in one small bush by the coast road at Caleta de Fustes Golf course the same day.

71. Common Chiffchaff

Common Migrant. Varying numbers throughout the week across the island. Good numbers were at Barranco de la Torre on 21st and several more were at the seaward end of Torre the following morning, with 6+ at Caleta de Fuste sewage works that afternoon. This species was also particular numerous in Costa Calma Wood on the 23rd.

72. African Blue Tit

Four birds were at the end of the surfaced road at Vego de Rio Palmas, Las Penitas on 26 th, where a pair were also seen copulating.

73. Great Grey Shrike

Fairly common resident, seen most days.

74. Woodchat Shrike

One was at Caleta de Fustes Golf course on 22nd and 2 were found at the seaward end of Barranco de la Torre the same day, one remained until 24th. One was at Pozo Negro on 23rd

and another was seen in the cultivations south of La Oliva on 25th. A fairly common migrant to the eastern Canaries.

75. Raven

Common and widespread. Large numbers around Puerto Rosario dump and Las Penitas.

76. Spanish Sparrow

Abundant resident species.

77. Linnet

Present in small numbers at Barranco de la Torre, several small flocks at Costa Calma Wood and numerous around the cultivations at La Oliva.

78. Goldfinch

Common only at Costa Calma Wood. The only other observation was 4 birds including a juvenile at the end of the surfaced road at Vego de Rio Palmas, Las Penitas on the 26th.

79. Trumpeter Finch*

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Fairly common across the island, 2 birds even seen in Caleta de Fustes resort. Small flocks were seen on most visits to Barranco de la Torre and the largest flock was c.15 birds seen feeding below the hide at Los Molinos on 24th.

80. Corn Bunting

A single bird was seen at a small cultivation at the turnoff to Los Molinos near Castillas del Angel on 21st. This species was numerous around the cultivations at La Oliva on 25th.

Notes:

A Helmeted Guineafowl corpse found at the seaward end of Barranco de la Torre on 22nd

was presumed to be of domestic origin.

Single birds seen at the Barranco de la Torre on 22nd and another at Costa Calma Wood on 23rd may have been Western Bonelli’s Warblers but views were not sufficient enough to clinch identification.

African Blue Tit, Barbary Ground Squirrel and Ruddy Shelducks

All photographs in this report © Neal Warnock

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