Frommer's Toronto 2011

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Toronto 2011



1THE BEST OF

TORONTO

Igrew up in downtown Toronto, and it’s where I still choose

to live with my family. It’s an ever-evolving version of the

multicultural city I remember from childhood: an inter-

locking collection of neighborhoods that change every

year with new arrivals. Toronto is friendly in a somewhatreserved way, a generally safe place to explore, and it has

plenty to discover, from restaurants to museums, festivals

to towers, arts to shopping, with loads of green spaces

throughout. Sure, times have changed since I was kid, and

crime has risen along with traffic, but it’s still relatively safe

for a metropolis with a 5 million-plus population. It also,happily, ranks as one of the world’s most diverse cities.

Toronto has a sprawling layout and miles of suburbs, but

if you stay focused on its core, the density of attractions

and vibrant communities makes it an incredibly approach-

able place to explore. For example, just stepping out my

front door leads me to great cafes for people watching;

lip-smacking charcuterie; the Art Gallery of Ontario,

MOCCA, the Cinematheque, and assorted galleries for

inspiration; funky pubs with great live music; and a handful

of parks.

Exploring Toronto is easy. Hop on a red-rocket streetcar

and ride with the locals. Get your bearings from the top of

the CN Tower or from a rooftop lounge. Take a ferry ride if

the weather is good or opt for a bracing walk along the

waterfront. Look up to see the city’s great architecture.

Look down to navigate the city’s mazelike underground. Be

prepared to shop until you drop. Eat till you’re stuffed.

Dance till dawn. Walk, and then walk some more. The





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T h e M o

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1 reward: In just a few days, you can tour the town and leave with the

feeling that you’ve got the hang of the place. A great, and lasting,

souvenir.

THE most MEMORABLETRAVEL EXPERIENCESW Taking in the Thomson Collection at the Art Gallery of Ontario: Locals are

thrilled with local boy Frank Gehry’s renovation of the AGO. His design has bril-liantly revised (and expanded) the space, but the very best thing about the newly

reopened AGO is the 2,000 works of art (great paintings, miniature sculptures,model ships) donated by local media magnate Ken Thomson. See p. 119.W Checking Out Local Theater and Music: Sure, Toronto mounts its fair share of

blockbusters. But the fine, and often more rewarding, offerings from Soulpepper,Opera Atelier, the Canadian Stage Company, Tafelmusik, and the Lorraine KimsaTheatre for Young People are innovative and generally excellent. And seeing theCanadian Opera Company onstage at the Four Seasons Centre for the PerformingArts is breathtaking. See “The Performing Arts,” in chapter 10.

W Exploring the Distillery District: Not only is this carefully restored area a remark-

ably intact example of 19th-century industrial architecture, largely thanks to itsrecent past as a stage set for movies and other productions, it’s also a hive of activ-ity. In addition to art galleries, shops, restaurants, and the city’s finest chocolateemporium, Soma, you can hear live music or visit the farmers’ market. See p. 123.

W Bar Hopping along Ossington Avenue: This once downtrodden strip is so hotthat the city recently passed a bill to prevent more establishments from openingin what is largely a residential neighborhood. You can dine at the excellent restau-rants or grab a great pizza, sip a cocktail at an intimate club or a tiny bar, take insome live music and then stroll the streets that frame the area and get a look at

how the locals live—in Victorian-era homes side-by-side with family-ownedshops. Utterly charming. See chapter 10.

W Visiting the Toronto Islands: Toronto is blessed with a chain of leafy islands justa brief ferry ride away that are mostly residential and offer a pretty, quiet, car-freespot for a stroll or a bike ride. The main attraction, Centre Island, is wide openparkland with an old-fashioned theme park, complete with pony rides and cottoncandy (needless to say, it’s great for kids). From the islands, you’ll have a perfect view of Toronto’s ever-evolving skyline. Pack a picnic, paddle a canoe, go bare if you dare at the sandy nudist beach, or take in the amusement park for a vacationwithin your vacation.

THE best SPLURGE HOTELSW Park Hyatt Toronto (4 Avenue Rd.; & 800/233-1234): The Park Hyatt is a

perennial favorite, with top-notch service and one of the best views in the city



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1from the rooftop terrace lounge. This is a place to relax and let yourself be pam-pered, especially in the on-site Stillwater spa. See p. 84.

W The Gladstone Hotel (1214 Queen St. W.;& 416/531-4635): This groovy hotelis moderately priced overall, but the double-decker “Rock Star Suite,” located inthe hotel’s Gothic tower, is a unique splurge—and its view makes the downtownToronto core look like a faraway metropolis. See p. 77.

W Thompson Toronto (550 Wellington St. W.;& 866/345-9501): The hip, luxury brand that started in New York City has landed in Toronto. Smartly situated in theKing West district, this super-hot new hotel opened in summer 2010. Sixteenfloors of fine modern design are complemented by floor-to-ceiling windows, arooftop pool, private screening room, sushi bar, all-night diner, an outpost of New York City’s Scarpetta restaurant, and excellent service. See p. 74.

THE best MODERATELYPRICED HOTELSW Delta Chelsea (33 Gerrard St. W.;& 800/243-5732): This is a longtime favorite

with budget-minded families. Perks include a playroom with live bunnies and fish,a video arcade, and a waterslide. It also offers children’s programs, a day-care center,and kid-friendly restaurants. Many rooms have fridges or kitchenettes. See p. 77.

W Hotel Victoria (56 Yonge St.; & 800/363-8228): This property offers the best

value in town. Double rooms start at C$120 per night and, for this, you get excel-lent service; a smallish but well-appointed room; and proximity to the EatonCentre, St. Lawrence market, top theaters, and the Financial District. See p. 79.

W Fairmont Royal York (100 Front St.; & 800/441-1414): This historic grandedame is at the higher end of the moderate price range, but it’s also a place wheregreat deals are often available (it’s possible to score a room for as low as C$119,if you keep an eye on the special deals on its website). It’s a piece of historicToronto, plus it has some fine dining, too. See p. 76.

THE most MEMORABLEDINING EXPERIENCESW The Black Hoof & Hoof Café (928 & 923 Dundas St. W.; & 416/551-8854 or

416/762-7511): Nose-to-tail eating is taken to extremes—and to truly tasty heights—at this brilliant resto-bar and its sister brunch spot right across thestreet. Co-owner/chef Grant van Gameren’s hand-crafted charcuterie is the maindraw (the tongue sandwich draws raves), but the pastas and mains are equally inspired. At the Café, try the delicious bone-marrow donuts and suckling-pig eggsbenedict for brunch. See p. 99.

W Canoe (TD Tower, 66 Wellington St. W.; & 416/364-0054): The panoramafrom the 54th floor of this iconic bank tower in the heart of the Financial Districtis stunning, but as the many regulars can attest, the food is so good you mightforget all about the view. It’s Canadian cuisine with rarities such as Nunavutcaribou and Québec foie gras, all handled with delicacy and brilliant technique.



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1 The menus, wine list, and service are as dazzling as the locale. The daytime vibeis corporate; evening is more romantic. See p. 93.

W Gilead Bistro (4 Gilead Place;& 647/288-0680): Local top chef Jamie Kennedy is behind the stove at this small, beautiful boîte. In other words, the food is sublime.Come for a light breakfast, a simple yet lovely lunch, or a real treat: a memorabledinner where local, seasonal ingredients are the stars. Great value, too. Finding yourway can be tricky: It’s situated in a tiny alley in Corktown. See p. 105.

W The Local Kitchen (1710 Queen St. W.;& 416/534-6700): Parkdale’s latest hotspot is part authentic Italian trattoria, part contemporary Toronto. The crowded,convivial room is idiosyncratic, the service pro yet friendly, and the food absolutely fantastic. Chef Fabio Bondi arrives pre-dawn each morning to make stunningfresh pasta such as smoked gnocchi with creamy taleggio. The wine list is simple yet superb. See p. 100.

W Scaramouche(1 Benvenuto Place;

& 416/961-8011

): Chef Keith Froggett andmaitre d’ Carl Corte have been quietly perfecting one of the city’s finest restaurantsfor over 25 years. The formal dining room, which is best for special occasions, iscomplemented by the adjoining casual pasta bar and grill. Located in a tony apart-ment building in midtown, there are beautiful views over the city. See p. 115.

THE best THINGS TO DO FORFREE (OR ALMOST)W Seeing Great Museums When They’re Discounted—or Free: Admissions to the

Royal Ontario Museum and the Art Gallery of Ontario have jumped since theirmassive renovations. However, you can pay less—or nothing—if you know whento go. See “Saving on Admission Costs,” on p. 128.

W Listening to a Concert at the Toronto Music Garden: Cellist Yo-Yo Ma co-designed this serene space that’s intended to evoke Bach’s First Suite for Unac-companied Cello. It’s easy on the eyes, but the best time to come here is for asummertime concert. Pure bliss. See p. 143.

W Wandering through Riverdale Farm: In case you need more proof that Torontois a very green city, it has a working farm in its midst. Cows, sheep, pigs, goats,and other critters call it home. See p. 147.

W Strolling the Lakeside Boardwalk: You can choose from a number of startingpoints, but don’t miss the quirky parks, open-air concert venues, and wintertimeskating rink near Habourfront. Or venture east to the long boardwalk in the neigh-borhood called the Beach, where you’ll share the lake views with locals and theirmany dogs and youngsters. See p. 61.

W Visiting Harbourfront Centre and the Power Plant Gallery: The collection of studios, stages, open-air exhibits (especially in summer), and the Power PlantGallery itself together offer an always-interesting, ever-changing attraction. Youmight call it a living museum. Watch for the many free special events. See p. 123.



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THE best MUSEUMSW Royal Ontario Museum (100 Queen’s Park; & 416/586-8000): Good for the

whole family, especially with the massive dinosaur collection and creepy bat cave,

the impressive exhibits also include Chinese temple art, Roman statues, andMiddle Eastern mosaics. See p. 127.

W Ontario Science Centre (770 Don Mills Rd.;& 416/696-3127): You don’t haveto be a tyke to appreciate the impressive interactive displays here that take in therealm of science disciplines, from biology to technology, and make them fun andinteractive. See p. 126.

W University of Toronto Art Centre (15 King’s College Circle; (& 416/978-1838): This intimate gallery is one of the city’s secret treasures. Visit it for thespecial exhibits or for the stunning permanent collection of Byzantine art. Seep. 132.

W Casa Loma (1 Austin Terrace; & 416/923-1171): Toronto has its own castle,and it’s a smashing example of architecture. Perhaps the man who built it was alittle obsessive, but how can you not admire the fact that it has both a Scottish and a Norman tower? See p. 136.

THE best PLACES TO HANG

WITH THE LOCALSW The Drake Hotel (1150 Queen St. W.; & 416/531-5042): Set in the middle of

the Art & Design District, this hotel fosters a sense of community by hostingmusic events, literary readings, and other festivities. If you hate feeling like a tour-ist, this place is for you. See p. 74.

W The Rogers Centre or the Air Canada Centre: The Rogers Centre is home basefor the Toronto Blue Jays baseball team. The Air Canada Centre is where theMaple Leafs (hockey) and the Raptors (basketball) play. Torontonians come out

to support them in droves. See p. 140.W Comedy Clubs: Maybe it’s something in the water: Toronto has produced more

than its share of top-notch comedians, including the shagadelic Mike Myers, JimCarrey, Dan Aykroyd, and the late John Candy. Checking out local talent or inter-national stand-up stars at one of the many comedy clubs is a favorite pastime forTorontonians. See p. 215.

W Treasure Hunting for Vintage Clothing in Kensington Market: How can onesmall area have a dozen vintage-clothing vendors? And how do they keep priceslow and the quality high? Haphazard Kensington Market is a big draw for local

bargain hunters. See “Walking Tour 1: Chinatown & Kensington Market,” inchapter 8, and “Hunting for Vintage,” in chapter 9.

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Frommer's Toronto 2011