From Mirpur With Love

8/9/2019 From Mirpur With Love

1/16

From Mirpur with love Page 1

From Mirpur with Love!(Shaikh Muhammad Ali)

(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mirpur_city.jpg)

A novel is achieved with hard work, the short story withinspiration Paulo Coelho
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mirpur_city.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mirpur_city.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mirpur_city.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mirpur_city.jpghttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/8/80/Mirpur_city.jpg


2/16


From Mirpur with love!

The last time that I travelled to the Mangla Dam, I was returning from the Rohtas fort

and since my father in law was also with us and he being a little tired, we decided not

to go and see Mirpur city. This was about three years ago and the flame of visiting

Mirpur in Azad Jammu and Kashmir (AJK) was still burning in my heart.

Lately, I was invited by the Department Chairman of the Electrical Engineering

Department at the Mirpur University of Science and Technology (MUST) to come speak

on Change Management on 25th June 2010.

(Going down South on GT Road till Dina)

This was a golden opportunity to take my family to go see Mirpur, AJK. For in traveling to

a truly foreign place, we inevitably travel to moods and states of mind and hidden

inward passages that we'd otherwise seldom have cause to visit.

After attending work on Thursday, we left for Mirpur in the evening while taking the

famous Grand Trunk road down South. Mirpur is about 125 kilometers from Islamabad.

We reached there in about 2.5 hours (Traffic rush included) i.e. after Maghreb prayers

and were put up at the Holidays In Kashmir hotel by my host, a good friend and the

Deputy Director, P&D of MUST i.e. Faisal Shehzad on the famous Allama Iqbal Road.


3/16


(Hotel Holidays in Kashmir in Mirpur, AJK)

It was a reasonably sized yet a comfortable room in which we were to spend the

current night and the rest of the next day. After checking out our whereabouts and

having a sumptuous dinner, we retired early. It had already started raining.

The next day I woke up early and got ready for the presentation at the university. Faisal

came to pick me up while the university was on the same road that we were staying

and was hardly a 10 minute drive. The audience thoroughly enjoyed the topic and

participated in asking relevant questions on the subject.

(I am giving a lecture on Change Management)


4/16


(The presentation in full swing)

After having a session for almost two hours which followed by a healthy question answer

session, we called it off and stepped outside for a photo session. We were

accompanied by one of the IT guys and the Project Director of the Electrical

Engineering department.

(The Project Director, Faisal and I)


5/16


(With the Electrical Engineering Department in the backdrop)

A little introduction:

Mirpur(Urdu: ), also known as 'Little Britain, is the largest city in Azad Jammu

and Kashmir, and the capital of Mirpur District. Mirpur is located at the extreme south of

Azad Kashmir at an elevation of 459 metres (1,509 ft). It is 125 kilometres (68 miles) south

east of Islamabad via the Grand Trunk Road and 295 kilometres (183 miles) south of

Muzaffarabad, the capital of Azad Jammu and Kashmir.1

History:

The city of Mirpur was founded in 1052 AH (around 1642 AD) by a Gakharchief MiranShah Ghazi. The Imperial Gazetteer of India Provincial Series Kashmir and Jammu (1909)

provides this information about Mirpur history as "it is said to have been founded by the

Gakhars, Miran Khan and Sultan Fateh Khan".2

The Sikh Empire:

The area now comprising Mirpur has been historically associated with Potohar though

modern demarcation of Potohar devised by British excludes Mirpur by using Jhelum

River as the eastern boundary. By the end of 18th century, Gakhar power in Potohar

had declined. Mirpur had become part of Chibb ruled state of Khari Khariyali withcapital at Mangla Fort. 3

With the rise of Sikh power in Punjab, Maharaja Ranjit Singh Ji established his supremacy

and set his eyes on the Chibh states of Bhimber and Khari Khariyali. In 1810, a force was

1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirpur,_Pakistan

2Ibid.

3Ibid.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urduhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azad_Kashmirhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azad_Kashmirhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirpur_Districthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Islamabadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Trunk_Roadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muzaffarabadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gakharshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pothohar_Plateauhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chibbhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punjab_regionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ranjit_Singhhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ranjit_Singhhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punjab_regionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chibbhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pothohar_Plateauhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gakharshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muzaffarabadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Trunk_Roadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Islamabadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirpur_Districthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azad_Kashmirhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azad_Kashmirhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urdu


6/16


sent against Raja Sultan Khan of Bhimber and was met with fierce resistance. However,

in 1812 another Sikh army under Prince Kharak Singh defeated Sultan Khan and the

Bhimber state was annexed as Jagir on Kharak Singh. Around the same time, Ranjit

Singh acquired Gujarat and invaded Khari Khariyali ruled by Raja Umar Khan. Raja

Umar Khan made peace with Ranjit Singh. But before a settlement could be made, he

died and the state and Mirpur became part of Ranjit Singh's territories.4

(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hindu_temple_purana_mirpur-001.jpg)

In 1816, Ranjit Singh annexed Jammu state and in 1820 awarded Jammu to his

commanderGulab Singh who hailed from Jammu and was under the service of Ranjit

Singh for the past eight years. Between 1831-39 Ranjit Singh bestowed on Gulab Singh

the royalty of the salt mines in northern Punjab, and the northern Punjab towns includingBhera, Jhelum, Rohtas, Mirpurand Gujarat.5

Gulab Singh kept on expanding his kingdom and in 1840 Baltistan was made subject to

Jammu and Gilgit fell to a Sikh force from Kashmir in 1842. The state of Kashmir was

annexed by Ranjit Singh in 1819. However the rebellion in Hazara in the beginning of

1846 compelled the country to be transferred to Raja Gulab Singh of Jammu as well.6

4Ibid.

5Ibid.

6Ibid.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kharak_Singhhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hindu_temple_purana_mirpur-001.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hindu_temple_purana_mirpur-001.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gulab_Singh_of_Jammu_and_Kashmirhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bherahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jhelumhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rohtashttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirpurhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gujrathttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hazara,_Pakistanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hazara,_Pakistanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gujrathttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirpurhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rohtashttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jhelumhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bherahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gulab_Singh_of_Jammu_and_Kashmirhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hindu_temple_purana_mirpur-001.jpghttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/f/f5/Hindu_temple_purana_mirpur-001.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kharak_Singh


7/16


(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Shrine_of_Meeran_Shah-001.jpg)

As an aftermath of the First Anglo-Sikh Warand the Treaty of Lahore, the Treaty ofAmritsarwas signed between the British Government and Raja Gulab Singh of Jammu

on March 16, 1846. This treaty transferred him all the hill states between Ravi and Indus.

The transfer included Kashmir Valley, Hazara and the southern hill states (including

former Khari Khariyali) thus sealing the fate of Mirpur with the new state of Jammu and

Kashmir.7

Early Mirpur:

Since Mirpur lies at the point where the Jhelum Riverbreaks out of the heavily forested

foothills of the Pir Panjal Mountains into the plains of the largely treeless Punjab, it was an

ideal spot for the construction of the boats used to carry goods down the five rivers of

the Punjab to the Indus Riverand onto the seaports in the Indus delta. Traders have

been operating from there across the Indian Ocean for over three thousand years. Most

of the crew on the boats trading up and down the Punjab and Indus River system were

drawn from Mirpur, as training as a boat-builder was a necessary prerequisite for

becoming a boatman.8

7Ibid.

8Ibid.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Shrine_of_Meeran_Shah-001.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Shrine_of_Meeran_Shah-001.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Shrine_of_Meeran_Shah-001.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_Anglo-Sikh_Warhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treaty_of_Lahorehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treaty_of_Amritsarhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treaty_of_Amritsarhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jhelum_Riverhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pir_Panjal_Rangehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indus_Riverhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_Oceanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_Oceanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indus_Riverhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pir_Panjal_Rangehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jhelum_Riverhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treaty_of_Amritsarhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treaty_of_Amritsarhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treaty_of_Lahorehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_Anglo-Sikh_Warhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Shrine_of_Meeran_Shah-001.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Shrine_of_Meeran_Shah-001.jpg


8/16


(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mangla_dam_jari_kas_2-001.jpg)

New Mirpur City:

Mirpur city is situated at 459 meters above sea-level and is linked with the main

Peshawar-Lahore Grand Trunk road at Dina Tehsil. It is the headquarters of Mirpur

District, which comprises three sub-divisions, Mirpur, Chaksawari & Dadyal. The building

of the new city in late sixties paved the way for New Mirpur situated on the banks of

Mangla Lake. 9

In fact the remains of the old city (old Mirpur) are underneath the waters of the Mangla

Lake, during colder months the water level decreases such that you can see the tops of

minarets from the first mosques, and also the remnants of a Sikh gurdwara as well as a

Hindu mandirpossibly dedicated to the "mangla mata" (Mangla mother goddess).10

(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mirpur_shivala_temple_02.jpg)

9Ibid.

10Ibid.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mangla_dam_jari_kas_2-001.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mangla_dam_jari_kas_2-001.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mangla_dam_jari_kas_2-001.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peshawarhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lahorehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dina_(town)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manglahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minaretshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gurdwarahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hindu_templehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mirpur_shivala_temple_02.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mirpur_shivala_temple_02.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mirpur_shivala_temple_02.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mirpur_shivala_temple_02.jpghttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/8/89/Mirpur_shivala_temple_02.jpghttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/8/89/Mirpur_shivala_temple_02.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hindu_templehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gurdwarahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minaretshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manglahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dina_(town)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lahorehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peshawarhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mangla_dam_jari_kas_2-001.jpghttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/2/2a/Mangla_dam_jari_kas_2-001.jpg


9/16


This is a glimpse of pre-independence times when there were many faiths co-existing in

Kashmir as a whole, but however after partition the Hindus, Buddhists and Sikhs fled to

India. Mirpur was well planned and the buildings are mostly of modern design, in

addition there is significant inward investment from expatriates now living in the United

Kingdom, Europe, North America, & the Middle East. The city has a number of hotels,

restaurants, shopping malls and other urban facilities. 11

Back to the main story:

After the presentation, I came back to the hotel and after saying my Juma prayers with

Adil and having lunch; we decided to go visit the Mazar (mausoleum) of Mian

Muhammad Baksh, a famous Sufi poet of Khari Sharif, Mirpur.

(On the road to Khari Sharif)

Mn Muhammad Bakhsh was aSufi saint and a Punjabi/Pahari poet of great repute.

He is especially renowned as the writer of a book of poetry called Saiful Malk. He was

born in a village called khanqa pir-e-shah Ghazi Khari Sharif, situated nearMirpur District

of Azad Jammu & Kashmir.12

He belonged to the Gujjar caste of the Dedhar clan; he was a fourth generation

descendant ofPr-e Shh GhzQalandar Damriyan Wali Sarkar, who was buried in

Khari Sharif. Pr-e Shh Ghz's khalfahwas Khwjah Dn Muhammad; and his khalfahwas Mn Shamsuddn, who had three sons: Mn BahvalBakhsh, Mn Muhammad

Bakhsh, and Mn 'Al Bakhsh. Mn Muhammad Bakhsh's ancestors originated in

Gujarat, but had later settled in the Mirpur District of Azad Jammu & Kashmir. He was

poet of Pahari language (widely spoken in different parts of Kashmir).13

11Ibid.

12http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mian_Mohammad_Bakhsh

13http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mian_Mohammad_Bakhsh
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Middle_Easthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sufihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sufihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sainthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punjabi_peoplehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paharihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khari_Sharifhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirpur_Districthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azad_Jammu_%26_Kashmirhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=P%C4%ABr-e_Sh%C4%81h_Gh%C4%81z%C4%AB&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=P%C4%ABr-e_Sh%C4%81h_Gh%C4%81z%C4%AB&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=P%C4%ABr-e_Sh%C4%81h_Gh%C4%81z%C4%AB&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=P%C4%ABr-e_Sh%C4%81h_Gh%C4%81z%C4%AB&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=P%C4%ABr-e_Sh%C4%81h_Gh%C4%81z%C4%AB&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khari_Sharifhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khari_Sharifhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khal%C4%ABfahhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khal%C4%ABfahhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gujrathttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirpur_Districthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azad_Jammu_%26_Kashmirhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azad_Jammu_%26_Kashmirhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirpur_Districthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gujrathttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khal%C4%ABfahhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khari_Sharifhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=P%C4%ABr-e_Sh%C4%81h_Gh%C4%81z%C4%AB&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azad_Jammu_%26_Kashmirhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirpur_Districthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khari_Sharifhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paharihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punjabi_peoplehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sainthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sufihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Middle_East


10/16


(At the Mazar of Mian Muhammad Baksh)

The Mazar was about a 1520 minutes drive from the hotel heading south from Mirpur.

It was pretty warm when we got there but the atmosphere was serene and calm just

like at any other mazar in the country.

(The epitaph of Mian Muhammad Baksh)


11/16


Besides the tomb of Mian Muhammad Baksh, the grave of Qalandar Pir-e-Shah Ghazi

better known as Damriyan Wali Sarkar is also present at the Khari Sharif enclosure. Mian

Muhammad Baksh is the Mureed (read disciple) of this gentleman in the fourth

generation.

(A plaque on the mazar of Pir-e-Shah Ghazi)

After saying our fateha (read prayers) at the first tomb we then visited the second one

of Pir-e-Shah Ghazi.

(The epitaph of Mian Muhammad Baksh)


12/16


We stayed at the complex for an hour or so and then decided to call it a day and

headed back to Mirpur.

(The complex of Khari Sharif where two Sufi saints are buried)

On the way back to Mirpur city, we enjoyed peculiar scenery while the children

stopped to have pictures.

(A peculiar stony mountain)


13/16


(Another view of the stony rocks)

It took us another 15-20 minutes or so to get back to Mirpur city. I was again tempted tovisit Kotli as well on this trip when I saw this board but due to paucity of time, I decided

to do this some other time.

(On the way back to Mirpur from Khari Sharif)

There is not much to see in Mirpur except for Mangla Dam and the old temples in theold city which are in the middle of the water and can only be visited when the water

recedes. It was also too hot to go around in midday and since we had decided to

leave for Islamabad in the evening thus we were just breezing through town at a fast

pace. While doing this, we also passed through the famous Mega Mart of Mirpur.


14/16


(Passing by Azad Mega Mart in Mirpur city)

Since we had already checked out from the hotel after Juma prayers and lunch beforegoing to Khari Sharif, thus we headed towards home around 5:00 p.m. or so.

(Heading for home)

On the way back, we decided to stop over and see the construction marvel in this part

of the country i.e. the famousMangla Damwhich is the 6th largest dam in the world. The

children didnt get much time for their usual fun and frolic in the city and thus they had

a ball at the Dam.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mangla_Damhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mangla_Damhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mangla_Damhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mangla_Dam


15/16


(Adil and Mohsin at the Mangla Dam)

(The gang of four at the DAM)

We spent about 20 minutes at the DAM while enjoying the cool breeze surrounded by

large stretches of cool water.


16/16


(Another gang of four)

And thus we called it a day and drove back home while keeping in mind that I shallreturn to conquer Kotli and Bhimber.

(Country roads, take me home)

Shaikh Muhammed AliThe Wandering DervishE-mail:[email protected]

Cell: +00-92-321-5072996

Date: 8th

August, 2010

Time: 10:57 (PST)
mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]

Documents

From Mirpur With Love