From China to Vietnam a Food Journey Along the Mekong River

CONTENTSTITLEPAGE

INTRODUCTION

CHINAKUNMING

DALI&SHAXI

LIJIANG

XISHUANGBANNA

MYANMARYANGON

INLELAKE

KENGTUNG

THAILANDCHIANGKHONG

MAESALONG

CHIANGMAI

LAOSVIENTIANE

LUANGPRABANG

4000ISLANDS

CAMBODIASIEMREAP

PHNOMPENH

KEP&KAMPOT

VIETNAMCHAUDOC

CAIBE

BENTRE

GLOSSARY

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

COPYRIGHTPAGE

IntroductionVietnam is a country I have been returning to for the past ten years, to deepen myunderstandingofitscultureanditsdiverseregionalcuisine.OneachvisitIwouldspendmy days visiting home cooks, street vendors and cottage industries, from the northernmountainsofSapa through to thecosmopolitancityofSaigon, then furthersouth to theMekongDelta,visitingmyuncles,auntiesandcousinswholiverightonthebanksoftheMekongRiver.

Wewouldwakeearlyinthemorningsandjumpstraightintotherivertofreshenup.Thewomenwouldthenspendmostofthedayharvestingricefromthegreenpaddies,whilethemenfishedformudfish,tilapiaandsnakeheadfish,andchildrenpickedplumpsucculentmangoes,jackfruit,lycheesanddurianfromtheorchards.Alltheproducewasthenpackedontolongboatstobegintheeight-hourjourneyuptheMekongtothewholesalemarketsinSaigon.

MyfamilysentirelivelihoodrevolvedaroundtheMekong.Thisabundantriverirrigatedtheirricecropsandfruitorchards,suppliedhundredsofkilosoffisheachdayandwastheirmainmeansoftransport.

IbegantoappreciatehowmanyVietnamesefamiliesalongtheMekongDeltarelysolelyontherivertosurvive.ItwasthenIrealisedthatitisntsimplythepeopleofVietnamwhodependonthemightyMekongtosustaintheirlives.

TheMekongisthetwelfthlongestriverintheworld,andtheheartandsoulofmainlandSouth-EastAsia.Over60millionpeopledependontheriveranditstributariesforfood,water,transportandmanyotheraspectsoftheirdailylives.Theriveralsosupportsoneoftheworldsmostdiversefisheries,nurturingover1500differentspeciesoffishwithinitsvastecosystem.

IdecidedtoembarkonajourneytoexplorethemanycountriesalongtheMekongthatusetherivereverydayfornourishmentandlife.IwantedtoimmersemyselfinthecultureandlifestylesofthepeopleintheGreaterMekongregionandlearnoftheincrediblydiverseproduce,ingredientsandcuisinesoftheseareas.

MydiscoveryoftheGreaterMekongstartswherethemightyriverbeginsitsflowfromtheTibetanPlateau,makingitswaydowntoChinasYunnanProvincethemostethnicallydiverseregioninChina.Iexploretheculinaryculturesandcenturies-oldtraditionsandstoriesoftheYunnan,fromtheNaxipeopleofLijiangtotheDaicommunitiesofXishuangbanna.

JourneyingsouthtoMyanmar,Iuncovertheuniqueflavoursoftheformercapital,Yangon.ImeetthefriendliestandmosthospitablepeoplethatIhaveeverencountered,andlearnthefamilyrecipesofInleLakecommunitiesandcookwiththehilltribesoftheShanState.

IthencrosstheborderintonorthernThailand.BeginninginChiangKhong,andtheninMaeSalongandChiangMai,Ilearnfromlocalfishermen,homecooksandAkhagrandmothersthatthemightyMekongRiverismorethanjustasourceoffooditisa

wayoflife.

MyjourneycontinuesdownthelowerMekongtoLaos,whereIdiscoverunusualingredientsanduniquedishesthatsurprisemysenses.Istartinthecountryscapital,Vientiane,whereIgleanabetterunderstandingofthecuisine,andthemanyinfluencesthathaveshapedittobecomethenextbigflavourtohittheWesternworld.Ithenvisitthenationsfoodcapital,LuangPrabang,whereIexperiencetheseven-daycelebrationsoftheLaoNewYear,andsamplethewonderfulstreetfoodthischarmingcolonialtownhastooffer.

Itravelfurthersouthto4000Islands,wheretheMekongRiverspillsacrossandaroundagiantexpanseofrocks,rapidsandislandsonitswaydowntoCambodia.Thisstunningareahassomeofthemostunusualfishandinsectdishesinthecountry.

AsIcrossovertoCambodia,Iamoverwhelmedbythepeoplesstories,resilience,andtheirpassionfortheircuisineandculture.Throughoutthecountry,beginninginSiemReap,ImeetinspiringcookswhoarestrivingtobringbackancientKhmerfoodandputtheircuisinebackontheworldmap.

Furthersouth,Iarriveinthecapital,PhnomPenh,whereinjustafewmomentsonecanseeandfeelthetrueCambodia:thecontradictorycontrastoftheoldandnew,poorandrich,harshandkind,honestandcorrupt.InPhnomPenhIsampleeverythingfromrusticstreetfoodtohigh-enddining,butwhatstaystrueistheauthenticityofKhmercuisine.

TheMekongRiverflowsfurthersouththroughCambodiatoKepandKampot,knowntohavethebestcrab,squidandgreenpeppercornsinallofSouth-EastAsia.

Asimpleshortwalkacrosssomewhitelinesandaboomgate,andIminmymothercountry,Vietnam.HereItravelwithmyparents,diggingdeeper,wantingtolearnmoreaboutthelivesoftheVietnamesepeoplealongtheMekongDelta.WestartinChauDoc,whereIsampletheworld-classfermentedfishandthecountrysbestroastsucklingpig.

IcontinuebyboattoCaiBe,whererivermeetsland,tovisitthecolourfulvibrantfloatingmarkets,andspendtimeatlocalcottageindustrieslearningage-oldcookingtechniques.

MyGreaterMekongadventuresadlyendsinBenTre,whereIamtaughteverythingthereistoknowaboutthecoconuttree.AnditisinBenTrethatIaminitiatedbythelocals,coaxedintoeatingmiceandlivecoconutworms,finallybecomingatrueVietnameseman.

CHINAKUNMINGTOXISHUANGBANNA

OfallthecountriesIvevisitedinAsia,itisthepeopleofChinawhohaveimpressedmemostwiththeirknowledgeofandreverencefortheirregionalfoodspecialties.Iwitnessedmanypassionatedebatesaboutfoodandingredients,andlearntthatinthestoryoffood,youllalsofindthestoriesoflove,war,deceit,comedy,tragedy,triumphandcelebration,Withsucharichandlonghistory,itislittlewonderChinaremainssuchamasterofAsiancuisine.

OneofthemanythingsIloveaboutChinaisitstraditionofstorytelling,whichholdslittlegemsofhistoryandmemoriesoftimespast.

Bydiscoveringadishoritemofproduce,Idoftenuncoverwithitastorydatingbackcenturiesawonderfulwayofkeepingthepastlockedintothepresent,andrecognisinghistoryintheeverydayfoodthatisstillgrownandtraded.

IdfeltalotofpressurestartingtofilmthisnewcookingseriesinChina,asIcouldntspeakthelanguage,andtheethniccuisinesinthisvastcountryaresodifferentfromwhatweknowofintheWestasChineseahugecontrastformetoVietnamwhere,incomparison,Idfeltprotectedandcomfortablewithinmyownheritageandlanguage.

China,tome,isthegrandmotherofallAsiancuisines,andthesourceofsomanyotherAsianwaysandauthenticities.

EverydayinChina,Iwouldlearnofnewmedicinalherbs,spices,greenvegetables,oils,cookingtechniquesandflavours.Meetingthepeopleandwanderingthroughthemarketswouldtakemeonanexcitingculinaryjourney,educatingmeaboutrealChinesecookingandingredients.Iimmersedmyselfsodeeplyintheculture,eatingeverythingonofferanddoingmybesttospeakthelanguage,thatIbegantofeellikealocal.

IstartedmyjourneyintheYunnancapital,Kunming,affectionatelyknownastheCityofEternalSpring,whereIdiscoveredtheiconicdishesandold-worldstoriesofthisgreatmetropolis.

YunnanprovinceinsouthernChinaisthemostethnicallydiverseareainthecountry.ItisalsotheregionthathaslongbeenknownasShangriLatheremote,mythicallong-lostparadiseonearth.Thelandscapehereisdramaticandbeautiful,andhometointerestingandsometimesrareingredients.

IthenmademywaytotheDaliandShaxiregions,whereIdiscoveredtheuniqueculinaryflavoursandtraditionsoftheBaiandYipeople,andspenttimealongthehistoricTeaHorseTrail.

FromthereItookalongdrivetothefabledoldtownofLijiang,whereImetupwithaNaxifamilywhokindlytaughtmetheirlocalspecialties.

MytripinChinawoundupinXishuangbanna,thegatewaytoSouth-EastAsia,whereIexperiencedtheDaicultureandcuisine.

Itwasafascinatingjourneyindeed.

KunmingKunmingisknownastheCityofEternalSpring,astheairiscleanandcrisp,andthesoilisvery fertile,MostofChinas flowers, freshherbsandvegetablesaregrownhere, andthatswhat Id come to explore, Kunming feels at easemerging the newwith the old,perhapsbecauseof itsyouthfulpopulationofuniversitystudents,whoareeveradaptingandevolvingwithallthenewfashionsandtechnology.

SincemyfirstvisittoKunming,oversevenyearsago,thecityhasbecomemodernised:electricmotorbikesandcarsfillthestreetsand,forthefirsttimeever,theroadrulesareactuallyobeyed,andstreet-foodvendors,whoonceoffereddeliciousMuslimandChinesesnacks,cannolongertradewherevertheyfeellikeonthestreets.

Myflightarrivedearlyinthemorning,soImademywaytotheGoldenHorseGatesinthecentreoftown,whereIwatchedhundredsofelderlyladiesexercisinganddancinginthepublicsquare,followingtraditionaloldmovessettocontemporarymusic.Icouldnthelpbutjoinin.

Afterwards,theladiestoldmeofafavouritelocaldishcalledcrossingthebridgenoodles.LikesomanydishesinChina,thisnoodlesouphadhistory.TheypointedoutarestaurantcalledBrothersJiangthathadbeenservingthisdishfor60years.Whenadishhasagreatstorybehindit,Ihavetosayitaddssomuchmoretothediningexperience.

AfterbreakfastIwasalreadythinkingaboutlunch,soIaskedpeopleonthestreetswhatIshouldeatandwhere.AuniversitystudenttoldmeofahiddenlanewaywhereIcouldfindthebestchargrilledhalalbeefskewers,cookedbyaguynamedMrShwee.HeispartofthelargestminoritygroupinChina,theUyghurpeoplealsoknownasMuslimChinese.Theyarefamousfortheirskewers,butbecausethispopularstreetfoodisnowillegal,onlythebestcooksremain,hiddenfrompublicsight.

Thenextday,IdrovetotheStoneForest,where400,000squarekilometresoflimestonekarstshavebeenskilfullysculptedbynatureoverthepast200millionyears.ButfirstIhadtovisitoneofthebestroastduckrestaurantsinChina,inthetownofYiliang,wheremasterchefPanhasbeenroastingduckfor25years.Hemarinatestheducks,thenair-driesthemfor24hours,ensuringalovelycrispskin.Theyarethencookedoverburningdriedpineneedles,givingthemanamazingsmokyrosemaryaroma.ItwasbetterthantheroastduckinBeijingeveryoneravesabout!

FISHMINTROOT&TOFUSALADSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

Eating in Kunming was such an incredible learning experience. Every day, I sampledsomething new and unique, On my very first day I was introduced to an unusualingredientcalledzheergen,which is therootof thefishmint, Itsnamecomesfromitsflavour,which is definitely an acquired taste, Its a bit fishy and quite astringent, but Iloved it,Locals say thispale, spindly, crunchy rootwas theirnaturalpreventionagainstsevereacuterespiratorysyndrome,orSARS.Ifyoucantgetyourhandsonfishmintroot,usecooked,juliennedyoungbambooshootsorlotusstemsinstead.

INGREDIENTS

250g(9oz)firmtofu,drained

60ml(2floz/cup)vegetableoil

200g(7oz)fishmintroot(glossary),cutinto3cm(1inch)lengths

1handfulfishmintleaves(glossary)

1largehandfulmintleaves

1smallhandfulroughlychoppedcoriander(cilantro)

8garlicchives,roughlychopped

redcapsicum(pepper),finelysliced

DRESSING

2teaspoonsbrownsugar

1tablespoonChineseblackvinegar

1tablespoonslightsoysauce

teaspoonsesameoil

pinchofchilliflakes

2smallgarliccloves,finelychopped

2.5cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,finelysliced

1springonion(scallion),finelysliced

METHOD

Combinethedressingingredientsinamixingbowlandstiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.Setasideandallowtheflavourstoinfusefor10minutes.

Meanwhile,cutthetofuintolargecubes.Heatthevegetableoilinasmallsaucepanandfrythetofuovermediumheatfor45minutes,turninguntilbrownedonallsides.

Removethetofuwithaslottedspoonandplaceinalargemixingbowl.Addtheremainingsaladingredientsandthedressingandtosswell.

Transfertoaplatterandserve.

CROSSINGTHEBRIDGENOODLESSERVES4

KunmingsmostrenowneddishhasitsoriginsinabeautifulChinesestory.Centuriesago,ascholarwouldgotoasmallislandtostudyfortheImperialexams,Everyday,hislovingwifewouldbringhimlunch,buttoreachhimshehadtocrossabridge,sohersoupswerealwayscold.Thenshecameupwithanidea!Sheslicedallthesoupingredientssuperthin,usedahugebowltoholdherpiping-hotbrothandpouredalayeroffatontop,totraptheheat, She would then carry the hot soup over the bridge, with all the ingredients onseparate plates,Onlywhen she reached her husband did she assemble the soup, and aseverythingwassofinelysliced,theingredientscookedveryquicklyinthesteamingbroth,Legendsaysherhusbanddidverywellinhisexams.

INGREDIENTS

cookedchicken,fromthechickenstock(seebelow)

100g(3oz)boneless,skinlesschickenbreast,slicedpaperthin

100g(3oz)skinlessporkfillet,slicedpaperthin

40g(1oz)porkkidney,peeled,trimmedandslicedpaperthin

50g(2oz)Chinesecuredpork(glossary)orjamn,finelysliced

100g(3oz)cleanedsquid,slicedpaperthin

1sheetofdriedtofuskin(glossary),soakedinwaterfor20minutes,thenfinelysliced

100g(3oz)freshblackfungus(woodears;glossary),sliced

1handfulPickledVegetables,optional,roughlychopped

2springonions(scallions),finelysliced

6babybokchoy(pakchoy)leaves,cutinto3cm(1inch)strips

4garlicchives,cutinto3cm(1inch)lengths

1smallhandfulchoppedcoriander(cilantro),plusextratogarnish

300g(10oz)freshroundChinesericenoodles

1quailegg

teaspoonseasalt

1tablespoonsoysauce

1teaspoonfinelyslicedfreshginger

CHICKENSTOCK

1kg(2lb3oz)wholechicken

3garliccloves

4springonions(scallions),whitepartonly,roughlychopped

4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandsliced

METHOD

First,preparethechickenstock.Washthechickenthoroughlyundercoldrunningwater,beingsuretoremovealltracesofblood,gutsandfatfromthecavity.Placethechickeninastockpotwith3litres(102floz/12cups)waterandbringtotheboil.

Reducetheheattoaslowsimmerandskimoffanyimpurities.Continuetoskimuntilyouhaveremovedmostofthefat.Poundthegarlicandspringonionintoapasteusingamortarandpestle,thenaddtothepotwiththeginger.Cookforafurther2hours.Strainoffthestock,reservingthechickencarcass,andallowthestocktocool.Pouroffandreserve1litre(34floz/4cups)ofthestock;refrigeratetheremainingstockforupto3daysanduseinotherrecipes,orfreezeuntilrequired.

Finelyshredthemeatfromthechickencarcass,discardingtheskinandbones,andplaceonasmallplate.Arrangetheslicedmeats,squid,tofu,vegetables,herbsandnoodlesonseparatesmallplates.Cracktheeggintoasmallbowlandplaceontheservingtablewithallthefoodplates.

Bringthereservedstocktotheboilwiththesalt,soysauceandginger.Allowtoboilbriefly,asthebrothmustbeboilinghot.

Transferthebrothtoaverylargewarmednoodlebowlandbringtotheservingtable.

Quicklyaddtheeggtotheboilingbroth,followedbythemeats,squid,andthentheremainingingredients,addingthenoodleslast.

Combinewell,anddistributeamongindividualwarmedbowls.Garnishwithextracorianderandserve.

UYGHURSPICYBEEFSKEWERSMAKES12(SERVES4)

TheUyghurareoneofChinaslargestethnicminorities,InKunmingtheyareknownfortheirChinese-Muslimcuisineespeciallyfortheirbeefor lambskewers,cookedonthestreetsoverglowingcharcoal,Sadly,street food inKunming is fastdisappearing,as thelocalgovernmenthasbeencrackingdownonstreetvendors.However,IheardofacooknamedMrShwee,whose family has been servingbeef skewers for three generations, Ihadahardtimefindinghim:hehideshischarcoalgrilldownanarrowalley,outofpoliceview.Hisrecipeisassecretashislocation!Itriedmybesttoreplicatehismarinade,andIthinkImalmostthereMrShweegrillssome2000skewersaday,for3yuanperstick,making$700perday.Notbad,hey?

INGREDIENTS

1kg(2lb3oz)beefsirloin


1teaspoonchilliflakes

1teaspoongroundcumin

2lemons,cutintowedges

MARINADE

3teaspoonsseasalt

1teaspoonsweetpaprika

1teaspoongroundnutmeg

1teaspoongroundcoriander

1teaspoongroundsichuanpeppercorns

1teaspoongroundginger

1teaspoonchilliflakes

1teaspoongroundcumin

3garliccloves,finelychopped

60ml(2floz/cup)lightsoysauce


METHOD

Combinethemarinadeingredientsinabowlandmixwell.

Cutthebeefinto2.5cm(1inch)chunks,leavingonsomeofthefat.Placeinalargemixingbowl,addthemarinadeandmixuntilthebeefiswellcoated.Coverandmarinate

intherefrigeratorforatleast30minutes,orovernightforatastierresult.

Soak12bambooskewersincoldwaterfor20minutes.Heatabarbecuechargrillorchargrillpantomedium-highheat.

Threadthebeefontotheskewers.Chargrillfor3minutesoneachside,bastingthebeefwiththevegetableoiltogetsomeflamehappeningandimpartasmokyflavour,andsprinklingwiththechilliflakesandcumin.

Transfertoaplatterandservewithlemonwedges.

Dali&ShaxiThe rural town of Dali was settled by the Bai people 3000 years ago. About 300kilometresnorth-westofKunming,Dali is theeconomicandcultural centreof theDaliBaiAutonomousPrefecture,Thearea is surroundedbymountains to the east,west andsouth,withErhaiLake in its centre,Hereyouwill find25 ethnicminorities,whohavecreatedauniquecultureandcuisine.

Daliisfamousforitsricenoodles,whichhaveauniquestickytexture.Iarrangedtospendadaywithafamilywhohasbeenmakingricenoodlesforfourgenerations.IwasgreetedatthedoorofanoldwoodenhousebytheZhaofamily,wearingtheirtraditionalcolourfulBaigarbandpinkheadpieces.

Iarrivedintimetoseehugebasketsofsoakedricebeingsteamed.Thericeamixtureofjasmineandglutinousriceissteamedfor40minutes,restedandsteamedagain.Itisthenkneadedintoathickdough,rolledflat,thenhungonwoodenbeamsfor24hours.Thewholefamilythencutthenoodleswithlargecleavers.Theyweretrueartisans;IfeltlikeIhadsteppedbackintime.TheendresultwasthemostincrediblealdentenoodlesIhaveevertried.Ifonlywecouldgetsuchfreshhand-madericenoodlesathome.

Noodle-makingisnottheonlytraditioninDalidatingbackhundredsofyears.SittinginatinyboatlisteningtoBaifishermencommunicatingwithcormorants,tellingthebirdswhentodiveforfishandwhentocomeback,waslikewatchingtheatre,orevenamusical:thebirdscriesandtheirmastersvoicesmergingtogetherlikeawonderfulsong.

LocatedhalfwaybetweenDaliandLijiang,nestleddeepintheHimalayanfoothills,Shaxiishometoabeautifultraditionalwayoflifethatoffersaglimpseintoaforgottenera.Shaxiisacharmingsmalltownwithasun-drenched,fertileplainthatfollowsthegentleHeihuiRiver,alesser-knownbranchoftheMekong.

ElderBaiandYipeopleliveheresurroundedbycobbledstreets,spectacularancientarchitectureandimpressivecourtyardhomes.Theyoungergenerationshaveallmovedtothecities,soallyoucandoinShaxiisgoforshortwalks,relaxandprepareslowfood.Ireallyenjoyedlearningdishesfromtheelders:youcangleansomuchabouttheirculture,traditionsandfamilyvaluesfromtheirfood.

CLAYPOTFISHSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

GenghisKhansgrandsoncame toDaliandconquered theDaliKingdom.ThesepeoplebroughttheirownstyleoffoodtoDali,andthis700-year-oldsoupisaclassicexample,Itismuchmore savoury thanyour traditional spicy-sour-styleChinese soup, as it ismoremeatyandrichflavoursdominate, I reallyenjoyusingaclaypot,as itdevelopsflavourwithageandaddsanearthycharacter todishes, Ifyouareusinganewclaypot for thefirst time, submerge it in coldwater overnight before cooking in it, so it doesnt crackwhenplacedoverhighheat.

INGREDIENTS

2tablespoonspeanutoil

1teaspoonsichuanpeppercorns

4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandjulienned

700g(1lb9oz)wholecarporsilverperch,cleanedandbutterflied

2Chinesecabbageleaves,cutinto3cm(1inch)widestrips

4050g(12oz)bundleofglassnoodles,soakedinwaterfor20minutes

20g(oz/1cup)driedblackfungus(woodears;glossary)

3freshshiitakemushrooms,sliced

40g(1oz/1cup)driedtofuskin(glossary),soakedinwaterfor20minutes,thenslicedquitefinely

1tablespoondriedshrimp(glossary)

10cm(4inch)pieceofChinesecuredpork(glossary),finelysliced

freshordrieddaylilybuds(glossary),togarnish,optional

METHOD

Addthepeanutoiltoahotfryingpan.Sautthesichuanpeppercornsandgingerovermedium-highheatuntilfragrant.

Placethefishskinsidedowninthepanandcookfor2minutes.Turnitoverandcookforafurther2minutes.

Placethecabbageina1litre(34floz/4cup)claypot,thentransferthepaningredientstotheclaypot.

Placetheclaypotonthestoveandpourinenoughwatertofillthepot.Bringtheliquidtotheboil,thenskimoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurface.

Addthenoodles,mushrooms,tofuskin,driedshrimpandpork.Reducetheheattolowandsimmergentlyfor30minutes.

Servegarnishedwithlilybuds,ifdesired.

STEAMEDFISHWITHFERMENTEDSOYABEANS&GLASSNOODLESSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

Idheardstoriesofanage-oldfishingtechnique,datingbackto960AD,ofBaiChinesefishermen training cormorants to dive into thewater to catch and retrieve fish. I couldhardlybelieve they still do this today. Itwas like theatre: the communication, trust andundividedattentionbetweenthefishermenandcormorantswasamazingtosee.When I finally succeeded in takinga fishoutof abirdsmouth, I decided to steam thewhole fish on the small canoe, with ten cormorants watching me like hawks anexperienceIwillneverforgetSteamingissuchasimple,clean,healthywayofcookingfish.Makesurethewaterisatarapidboilbeforecookingit.

INGREDIENTS

700g(1lb9oz)wholecarp,barramundiorsilverperch,cleaned

35g(1oz/cup)seasalt,forcoating

4050g(12oz)bundleofglassnoodles,soakedinwaterfor20minutes

2teaspoonsfermentedsoyabeans(glossary)


4springonions(scallions),shredded

1longredchilli,sliced


coriander(cilantro)leaves,togarnish

SAUCE

1tablespoonsugar

2tablespoonsshaoxingricewine(glossary)


1tablespoonsesameoil

METHOD

Makethreelongdiagonalcutsinthethickestpartonbothsidesofthefish,Rubseasaltoverthefish,thenplaceitonaheatproofplatethatwillfitinsidealargesteamerbasket,Topwiththenoodles,soyabeansandginger,Setaside.

Half-fillasteamer,wokorlargesaucepanwithwaterandbringtoarapidboiloverhighheat.

Combinethesauceingredientsinasmallbowlandmixuntilthesugarhasdissolved,Pour

thesauceoverthefish.

Placethefishinasteamerbasket,thencoverandsetoverthepanofboilingwater,Steamfor1015minutes,oruntilthefishflakeseasilywhentestedwithafork,Scatterthespringonionandchillioverthefish.

Heatthepeanutoilinasmallsaucepantosmokinghot,Pouritoverthefish,scaldingthespringonionandchilliandreleasingafragrant,smoky,nuttyaroma,Garnishwithcorianderandserve.

DALIVEGETARIANRICENOODLESTIR-FRYSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

China inventednoodlesover4000yearsago,andwhenImet theZhaofamily inDali Iwasinnoodleheaven!Theyvebeenmakingricenoodlesforfourgenerations,butwhatmakestheirssouniqueisthattheyuseamixtureofjasminericeandwhiteglutinousrice,givingthenoodlesawonderfulaldentetexture.

INGREDIENTS

2tablespoonsGarlicWater(seeNote)



90g(3oz/2cups)slicedChinesecabbage

120g(4oz/1cups)beansprouts


1tablespoonlightsoysauce

250g(9oz)freshroundChinesericenoodles

teaspoonVietnamesepickledgroundchillies(glossary)

2springonions(scallions),slicedonthediagonal

YUNNANCHILLIOIL

125ml(4floz/cup)peanutoil

2tablespoonschilliflakes

1tablespoonsesameoil

METHOD

Makethegarlicwateradayahead.Setaside.

Youcanalsomaketheyunnanchillioilaheadoftime.Heatthepeanutoilinawokuntilitalmostreachessmokingpoint.Turnofftheheatandallowtheoiltocoolforabout3minutes.Placethechilliflakesinaglassjar,thenpourinthehotoil,followedbythesesameoil.Allowtocoolslightlybeforesealing;donotstrainordiscardthechilli.Theoilwillkeepforuptoamonthstoredinacool,darkplaceandcanbeusedinothernoodlerecipes.

Heatawokorlargefryingpanuntilsmoking.Addthepeanutoilandsautthegarlicovermedium-highheatuntilfragrant.Nowaddthecabbage,beansproutsandgarlicchivesandstir-fryfor1minute.

Add1teaspoonoftheyunnanchillioil,thesoysauceandapinchofseasaltandstir-fry

forafurtherminute.Nextaddthenoodles,pickledgroundchillies,garlicwaterandhalfthespringonion.Stir-fryforanother3minutes.

Transfertoaplatterorindividualplates,garnishwiththeremainingspringonionandserve.

NOTE

Tomakegarlicwater,simplycombine1tablespoonchoppedgarlicand2tablespoonswaterinabowl.Coverandstandovernight,thenstrain.

LICHENSALADSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

Shaxislandscapewassostunning,andtheairsocrisp,thatIpromptlyborrowedabicycleandcruisedaroundthecharmingoldtownandcountryside,Whattookmyeyeweretwoladies skilfully carving something from a tree, It was fresh lichen an astonishingpartnership between two very different organisms, fungus and alga, Lichen inhabit justabout any solid surface in less extreme climates, from rocks and walls to trees andconcrete,Afewareunattachedandblowaboutfreely.Onceknownasapeasantfood,lichenisnowadelicacy,Localstellmeitstheirsecrettolivingpasttheageof90years,Iamlichenthesoundofthat

INGREDIENTS

150g(5oz/2cups)freshlichenorfreshblackfungus(woodear;glossary),cutinhalf

2wholedriedChinesewhitefungus(glossary),soakedinwaterfor30minutes,thensliced

1smallhandfulroughlychoppedcoriander(cilantro)

DRESSING

1tablespoonbrownsugar

1tablespoonChineseredvinegar(glossary)

2tablespoonsChineseblackvinegar


2teaspoonssesameoil


4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandfinelysliced

2springonions(scallions),finelysliced

teaspoonchilliflakes

METHOD


Placetheremainingingredientsinalargemixingbowl.Addthedressingandtosswell.

Transfertoaplatterandserve.

LUCKYREDBRAISEDPORKBELLYSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

There is a very traditional banquet cooked in the charming town of Shaxi, called theEight Dish Banquet, which is only prepared on very special occasions, A town elderfoundanoriginalbanquetmenufrom90yearsagoandtalkedmethroughthedishes.Hetells me that the red braised pork belly was one of his favourites as it was not onlydelicious,but,being red in colour, alwaysbroughtgood luck, Ifyoucant find red ricegrains,youcanuse1tablespoonAnnattoOil(seeNote,oradashofredfoodcolouringinstead.

INGREDIENTS

1tablespoonredricegrains(hongqu;glossary)

1tablespoonshaoxingricewine(glossary)

2500g(1lb2oz)bonelessporkbelly,cutinto3cmx4cm(1inch1inch)pieces

2teaspoonssugar


3blackcardamompods(glossary),bruised

coriander(cilantro)sprigs,togarnish

METHOD

Placethericegrainsinamortarandpoundintoafinepowder.Addthericewineandmixuntilwellcombined.

Placetheporkinalargemixingbowl.Addthericewinemixture,massagingtheliquidintotheskin.Allowtomarinateforatleast30minutes.

Transfertheporktoasaucepanandcoverwithcoldwater.Nowaddthesugar,ginger,cardamomandapinchofseasalt.Bringtotheboil,thenskimoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurface.

Coverwithalid,reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor3hours,oruntiltheporkistender.

Garnishwithcorianderandserve.

WILDMUSHROOMSWOK-TOSSEDWITHCUREDPORKSERVES46aspartofasharedmeal

Iwokeupsuper-early toattendthebustlingShaximarket,whichisonlyheldonFridaymornings,TheBaiandYipeoplewalkforhoursfromthemountainsandvalleys,bringinglivestock and fresh produce to sell, I was searching for the much-loved ox livermushroom, which is actually very similar to the great porcini mushroom, These wildmushroomshavetentimesmoreflavourthanregularbuttonmushrooms,andtheirnaturalglutamatesetsoffalovelyumamicharacterthefifthtaste.Ifyoucantobtaineitherofthesemushrooms,anassortmentoffreshAsianmushroomsenoki,shimeji,kingbrown,oyster,shiitakeisperfect.

INGREDIENTS

10cm(4inch)pieceofChinesecuredpork(glossary),or100g(3oz)jamn,cutinto5mm(inch)slices

4garliccloves,finelysliced

1greencapsicum(pepper),sliced

1redcapsicum(pepper),sliced

200g(7oz)freshoxlivermushroomsorporcinimushrooms,sliced

200g(7oz)freshshiitakemushrooms,sliced

2younggarlicshoots(glossary),cutinto5cm(2inch)lengths


METHOD

Heatawokoverhighheat,withoutanyoil.Addtheporkandcookfor2minutes,toallowthefattorender.

Addthegarlicandcapsicumsandstir-fryfor1minute.Nowaddthemushroomsandgarlicshootsandstir-fryforafurther2minutes.

Addthericewineandapinchofseasalt.Stir-fryforanother2minutes,oruntilheatedthrough,thenserve.

LijiangLijiangisawell-preservedcityofethnicminorities,thelargestgroupbeingtheNaxi.Highonaplateau,2400metresabovesea level,Lijiang isborderedby the tree-coveredLionMountaininthewest,ElephantMountaininthenorth,andvastfertilefieldsinthesouth-east, Crystal-clear streams run through it, making Lijiang one of the most picturesquetownsinYunnanprovince,Withits800-yearhistoryLijiangblendsancienttraditionwithvibrantmodern living, Sure, I enjoyed the nightclubs, but what I lovedmost were theuniqueNaxidishesonoffer.

WhilewalkingthroughthemanynarrowcobbledstreetsofLijiang,IfoundacuteNaxirestaurantwithakitchenthatopenedoutontothefootpath.NaturallyIstuckmyheadin,anditwastherethatIlearnedofanastonishingdishcalled1000layerpork.Theporkbellywasmarinated,halfcooked,cooled,sliced,carefullylayeredintoabowlofpickledmustardgreensandthensteamedforhours,resultinginadishofincredibleflavouranddepth.

IcouldntleaveLijiangwithoutlearninghowtomakebaba,acrisp,flatbread,andastapleoftheNaxipeople.Ihadtriedtomakeitoncebefore,butcouldntgetthemultiplelayeringinthedoughthatmakesittrulyauthentic.HelpcameintheformofNaxigrandmotherAiyee.

WemetattheamazinglybeautifulBlackDragonPool,justoutsidetheoldtown.Itwaslikelookingatalivingpainting.UphighinthecloudsstoodJadeDragonSnowMountain,reflectingitsimageontothespringwaterbelow.Fromherewecollectedourspringwater,asAiyeesaiditisveryimportanttomakeyourbabafromspringwater,nottapwater.Backinhervillage,setamongthewheatfields,shetaughtmehowtomakesweetbaba.

JustoutsidethebustlingLijiangmarkets,Idiscoveredstallschargrillingwhatlookedlikebigballsofclay.Itwasadishcalledbeggarschicken,andofcoursetheresastorybehindit,whichgoeslikethisDuringtheQingdynasty,astarvingbeggarstoleachickenfromafeudallord.Hewantedtocookit,buthewasafraidthevillagerswouldsmellitbeingcookedandhewouldbecaught.Sohewrappedthechickeninalotusleafandsmothereditinmud,tokeepinthecookingsmells.Onceitwascooked,hesmashedopenthemudcasingandfoundthatthefeatherscamerightoffthechicken,exposingjuicy,tendermeatthatemittedanincrediblearoma.Theroastedchickenwassodeliciousthathedecidedtosellhiscreationtothevillagers.HehadunwittinglystartedoneofChinasgreatculinarytraditions.

CHARGRILLEDFISHWITHCRISPMINTSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

Lijiangsmarketwasthefirstbuildingintheentiretown,andhasbeenitsfocalpointforhundredsofyears,Theproduceisbothamazingandsurprising,andtheplacebuzzeswithenergy, I decided to cook this dish right in themiddle of themarket a bigmistake!Localsdemandedthat I firstcatchmyownfishwithmybarehands, thenkept laughingandpointingwhileIwasgrillingthefish,Itwasnerve-rackins,butfun.

INGREDIENTS

800g(1lb12oz)wholecarporbarramundi,cleaned

generouspinchofchilliflakes,totaste


1teaspoonsichuanpeppercorns

teaspoonseasalt

10largewholedriedredchillies

2garliccloves,finelydiced

1younggarlicshoot(glossary),finelydiced

2springonions(scallions),sliced

2tablespoonsroastedcrushedunsaltedpeanuts

250ml(8floz/1cup)vegetableoil

20mintleaves

METHOD

Heatachargrillpanorbarbecuechargrilltomedium-high.Seasonthefishwithagenerouspinchofseasalt,freshlygroundblackpepperandchilliflakes.Rubthefishwith1tablespoonofthepeanutoil,thenchargrilloneachsidefor810minutes.

Meanwhile,dry-roastthesichuanpeppercornsandseasaltinaheavy-basedfryingpanovermedium-lowheatuntilthepeppercornsbecomearomatic.Removefromtheheatandtransfertoasmallbowltocoolalittle.

Heattheremainingpeanutoilinthesamepan,thenaddthedriedchilliesandcookfor1minute,oruntiltheybecomedarkerallover.Addthedicedgarlicandgarlicshootandstir-fryovermedium-highheatuntilslightlygolden;takecarenottoletthechilliesburn.

Nowaddthespringonion,peanutsandthedry-roastedsichuanpeppercornandsaltmixture.Stir-fryforanother30seconds,thenremovefromtheheatandsetaside.

Inasmallsaucepan,heatthevegetableoilto170C(325F),oruntilacubeofbread

droppedintotheoilbrownsin20seconds.Flash-frythemintleavesinsmallbatchesforafewseconds,justuntilcrispbutnotbrowned.Drainwellonpapertowels.

Oncethefishhasfinishedcooking,transferittoaplatter.Spoonthespiceandpeanutmixtureoverthetop,garnishwiththefriedmintleavesandserve.

LIJIANGCOLDNOODLESSERVES2

ItriedthiscoldnoodledishonthestreetsjustoutsidetheBlackDragonPoolsinLijiang.IfounditverysimilartoavermicellinoodledishfromVietnam,whichisprobablywhyIloveditsomuch.Thetexturesareincredible,andtheflavoursdeepwithcharacter.Inowkeepgarlicwater,sichuanpepperoilandyunnanchillioilinmypantry,soIcanwhipupthisdishinnotime!

INGREDIENTS

400g(14oz)cookedroundChinesericenoodles,atroomtemperature

Lebanese(short)cucumber,cutintomatchsticks

1smallhandfulbeansprouts


4coriander(cilantro)stems,roughlychopped


1tablespoonroastedcrushedunsaltedpeanuts

DRESSING


1tablespoonChineseredvinegar(glossary)

1tablespoonChineseblackvinegar


2teaspoonsGarlicWater(seeNote)

2teaspoonsYunnanChilliOil

2teaspoonsSichuanPepperOil(seeNote)

METHOD


Placethenoodlesinabowl,alongwiththerestoftheingredients.Pourthedressingover,tosswellandserve.

NOTE

Tomakesichuanpepperoil,heat125ml(4floz/cup)peanutoilinawokuntilitalmostreachessmokingpoint.Turnofttheheatandallowtheailtocoolfor3minutes.Place2tablespoonssichuanpeppercornsinaglassjar,thenpourthehotoilintothejar,followedby1tablespoonsesameoil,Allowtocoolslightlybeforesealing;donotstrainordiscardthepeppercorns.Theoilwillkeepforuptoamonthstoredinacool,dark

place.

ONETHOUSANDLAYERPORKBELLYSERVES4

InthebackalleysofLijiangsoldtown,IstumbledacrossagemofarestaurantservingtraditionalNaxicuisine.Ithadagreatkitchen,whichopenedoutontothestreets,soyoucouldseethechefsinaction.Wok-burnerswereroaring,choppingboardsweredrumming,and steamers were busy slow-cooking this Naxi favourite. Although it doesnt literallyhave1000 layers of pork, this dishdoes look impressivewith itsmany layers of finelysliced pork belly. You can buy pickled mustard greens at your local Asian market invacuum-sealedbags;choosetheChinesevariety,whichhasabitofchillithroughit,Themustardgreensareessentialtothisdish,cuttingthroughtherichnessoftheporkbelly.

INGREDIENTS

500g(1lb2oz)bonelessporkbelly,skinscored

250g(9oz)pickledmustardgreens(glossary)

1tablespoonvegetableoil

coriander(cilantro)leaves,togarnish,optional

steamedjasminerice,toserve

MARINADE


1tablespoondarksoysauce


3garliccloves,finelydiced



METHOD

Combinethemarinadeingredientsinabowlandstiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.Coattheporkwiththemarinade,thencoverandmarinateintherefrigeratorfor1hour.

Meanwhile,soakthepickledmustardgreensincoldwaterfor1hour,oruntilverywellchilledandfirm.Strainwellandslicefinely.Setaside.

Removetheporkfromthemarinade,reservingthemarinade.Brushoffanygarlicorgingerpiecesfromthesurfaceoftheporkandpattheporkdrywithpapertowels.

Heatadeep,heavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addthevegetableoil,thenplacetheporkskinsidedowninthepanandbrownfor4minutes.Turnoverandbrowntheothersideforafurther4minutes.

Pourjustenoughhotwaterintothepantocoverthepork.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor10minutes.

Nowsubmergetheporkbellyinanicebathandleavetocoolfor5minutesthiswillmakeitmucheasiertosliceitfinely.(Alternatively,youcancoolit,thencoverandplaceinthefreezerfor1hour.)

Slicetheporkasfinelyasyoucan,usingalargesharpknife.Arrangeeachsliceinaheatproofbowl,overlappingtheslicesneatly,withthefatendontop,creatinga1000layereffectacrossthebowlanduptheedges.

Arrangethemustardgreensontopofthelayeredpork,thenpourinthereservedmarinade.

Half-fillasteamer,wokorlargesaucepanwithwaterandbringtoarapidboiloverhighheat.Placethebowlofporkinasteamerbasket,thensetoverthepanofboilingwaterandcover.Steamfor1hours,replenishingthehotwaterasneededevery30minutesorso.

Removethebowlfromthesteamer.Placeaservingplateupsidedownoverthebowl,thenangleituntiltheliquidfromtheporkpoursout,catchingtheliquidinabowl.Allowtheporktocoolfor10minutes.

Withtheplatestillontopofthebowl,quicklyinvertthebowl,sothatthebowlisnowontopoftheservingplate.Removethebowlandpourtheliquidoverthepork.

Garnishwithcoriander,ifdesired,andservewithsteamedjasminerice.

TRADITIONALNAXISWEETBABAMAKES24pieces(SERVES46)

Ancient traders took this crisp, flaky flatbreadon their long tripsalong the TeaHorseTrail,asittravelledwellandsustainedthem.AstapleintheNaxidiet,babaiseatenwitheverything, Some are plain; others stuffedwith spring onions (scallions), pork or eggs;Iveeventriedbabasmearedwithpreservedbeancurd,Whiletheywerealldelicious,thissweetversion,taughttomebyalocalladynamedAiyee,istheoneIenjoyedmost,Aiyeesays it is essential to follow her folding tips, to create the much-needed multi-layeredtextureof thissweetbaba, It isalso important touse lard in this recipe,as itmakes thepastrylightandflaky.

INGREDIENTS

300g(10oz/2cups)plain(all-purpose)flour

teaspoonbicarbonateofsoda(bakingsoda)

200ml(7floz)sparklingspringwater

40g(1oz/cup)unsaltedroastedpeanuts

25g(1oz/cup)roastedwalnuts

2teaspoonsblacksesameseeds

1tablespooncaster(superfine)sugar

1tablespoonbrownsugar

250g(9oz/1cup)lard

METHOD

Combinetheflour,bicarbonateofsodaandwaterinabowlandmixuntilacoarsedoughforms.Kneadonalightlyflouredworksurfacetoasmoothdough,repeatedlyfoldingthedoughbackontoitselfasyouknead,toincorporateairintoit.Thefoldingtechniqueisessentialforababayouneedtofoldthedoughasyoukneadit,togetenoughairthroughit.Coverthedoughwithateatowel(dishtowel)andleavetorestfor10minutes.

Meanwhile,usingalargemortarandpestle,poundthepeanuts,walnutsandsesameseedstogetherintoafinepowder.Addthesugarsandmixwell.

Dividetheresteddoughintothreeevenlysizedballs.Usingarollingpin,rolleachportionouttoanovalabout30cm(12inches)long,12cm(4inches)wideand5mm(inch)thick.Nowspread1tablespoonofthelardontopofeachoval.

Startingfromthebottomofeachoval,andworkingwithonepieceatatime,tightlyrollupthedough,creatingnicefirmrollsabout15cm(6inches)wide.

Workingwithonepieceatatime,holdtherollateachend,thentwisttherolltightlyinoppositedirections,toformatight,twistedrope.Thishelpscreatemorelayersinthe

dough.Foldthetwistedrollinhalflengthways,thenusethepalmsofyourhandstoflattenthewholething.Holdingoneenddown,useyourotherhandtofurtherkneadandworkthedoughoutuntilitis1cminch)thickandperfectlyround.

Usingbothhands,andagainworkingwithoneroundatatime,cupeachroundinyourhandandworkitwithyourthumbtoformadeepcupshapeinyourpalm.Nowformapocketinthedoughportions,deepenoughtospooninageneroustablespoonofthenutmixture.Enclosethepocketbypinchingtheedgeswithyourfingersuntilitlookslikearoundbun.

Nowusetherollingpintorolleachbunintoaperfectroundshape,1cm(inch)thick.

Heatafryingpanovermediumheatandaddonethirdoftheremaininglard.Fryonebabafor23minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrownandcrisp.Repeatwiththeothertwobabarounds.

Sliceeachbabaintoeightpieces,asyouwouldapizza,andserve.

XishuangbannaXishuangbanna is in the southernmost reaches ofChina, borderingLaos andMyanmar.LikeitsneighboursinthegreaterMekongregion,ithasasubtropicalclimate.NicknamedtheKingdomof thePlants, it is formallyknownas Sipsongpanna,whichsoundsmoreThaithanChinese,andmeanstwelvethousandricefields.ItwashereIbegantogetataste of South-East Asia and saw the start of the mighty Mekong, which helped meunderstandChinasimportantroleinpreservingthegreatriver,HowChinatreatstheriveraffectssixothercountries,and60millionpeoplewhodependonitfortheirdailysurvival.

Xishuangbannaisalsothemostimportanttea-growingregioninChina,andhometothefamousandmuch-lovedPu-erhtea,whichspawnedacomplexseriesoftradingroutescriss-crossingChina,Tibet,Nepal,MyanmarandIndiaoversomeoftheworldshighestterrain.TheserouteswerecollectivelyknownastheTeaHorseTrail.

ThebestPu-erhteacomesfromanareacalledSixFamousMountains,aplaceofbreathtakingbeauty.Steeplyterracedteaplantationsstretchasfarastheeyecansee,workedbylocalladieswearingcolourfulgarbandbamboobasketsontheirbacks.Theirbright,contagioussmileshadmedivingintohelpwiththepicking.

SixFamousMountainshasbeenatea-growingregionformorethan2000years,andtheladiestoldmethatteawasntonlyusedfordrinkingtealeaveshavealsobeenusedinmedicine,andasmoney.Wediscusseddifferentfooddishesthattealeavesareusedin,mainlyfortheirfragrance.IimmediatelythoughtofasweetsnackmygrandmotherusedtomakewhenIwasakidstickysesame-coatedriceballs,filledwithcaramelisedsugarcaneandcookedinateabroth.Ijusthadtocookitfortheladies.

Iputmyteabrothontheboil,butsuddenlytorrentialrainbeganbucketingdown.Oursmallumbrellaswerenomatchfortheelementsandwithinsecondsmydumplingdoughwasdrownedinrainwater,andmyback-upriceflourwasabsolutelysoaked.Wetookcoverinagrasshutamongtheteafields,huddlingtogethertokeepwarmuntiltherainstopped.Thenwetriedagain.Lookingback,itwashilariousandlotsoffun.

CHARGRILLEDLEMONGRASSTILAPIASERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

WhenIarrivedinXishuangbanna,IwassurprisedathowmuchitresemblesThailand.Itwas hot, humid and tropical, and I noticed lemongrass was abundant in this area,Throughout themarkets, street-food stallswould be chargrilling this aromatic fish dish,whichgotmehookedandmademecurioustotryitoutformyself,Itmaybedifficulttofindtheuppergreenlongleavesofthelemongrasstotiethefishwith,ifyoudontactuallygrowityourselfinthegarden,Ifso,justpeeleachouterlayerofthelemongrassstemuntilyouhaveenoughtocoverthechargrill,thencookyourfishontopofthat.

INGREDIENTS

2wholelemongrassstems


1garlicclove,finelychopped

longredchilli,finelysliced

2.5cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandfinelychopped


600g(1lb5oz)wholetilapiaorsnapper,cleaned


METHOD

Cutoffthelonggreenstemsofthelemongrass,thencutdownalongthestemstoseparatetheleaves.Soaktheleavesinalargebowlofwarmwaterfor20minutestosoftenthemalittle.

Meanwhile,finelydicethewhiteendsofthelemongrass,thenplaceinamixingbowlwiththespringonion,garlic,chilli,gingerandsoysauce.Mixwellandsetaside.

Laythefishonachoppingboard.Usingasharpfilletingknife,startfromtheheadendofthefishandcreateafilletbyslicingdownfromthespinetothebelly,butdontcutthefilletoffthebodyjustleaveitlyingopen,andstillattachedtothebonealongthebelly.

Nowspreadthelemongrassmixtureovertheexposedpartofthefillet,thenclosethefishbackup.Tiethereservedlemongrassstemsaroundthefishtokeepitclosed,orsecuretheopeningwithtoothpicks.

Heatabarbecuechargrillorchargrillpantomedium-high.Brushthefishwiththevegetableoil,thenchargrillfor10minutesoneachside,oruntilthefleshflakeseasilywhentestedwithafork.Cutawaythelemongrassleavesandserve.

CHICKEN&HERBSWRAPPEDINBANANALEAFSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

OriginallyfromThailandandLaos,theDaiethnicminoritysettledalongthebanksoftheMekonginXishuangbanna,WalkingthroughtheirvillageInoticedshinygoldentemples,monks in orange robes and tallwooden stilt homes, just like inThailand,So itwas nosurprisethelocalfoodhadastrongThaiinfluence.If you cant find fresh acacia herb (cha-om), you can buy it frozen at your local Thaimarket,Dontbeputoffby itspungent smell:oncecooked, it is aromatic, andadds somuchdepth.Thisdishisperfectwhenyourefeelingalittleundertheweather,asthemixedfreshherbshavegreatmedicinalqualities.

INGREDIENTS

300g(10oz)boneless,skinlesschickenthighs,minced(ground)



2tablespoonssoysauce

4freshorfrozenacaciaherb(cha-om)stems(glossary),roughlychopped

10Thaibasilleaves

1lemongrassstem,whitepartonly,finelychopped


3smallwholeredchillies

3smallwholegreenchillies

5freshbetelleaves(glossary),finelysliced

5saw-toothcoriander(cilantro)leaves(glossary),sliced


pinchofcornflour(cornstarch)

2bananaleaves,eachabout60cm(24inches)long,centralribremoved

StickyRice,toserve

METHOD

Combinealltheingredients,exceptthebananaleavesandstickyrice,inalargemixingbowl.Addagenerouspinchofseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper.Mixwell,thenallowtheflavourstoinfusefor15minutes.

Meanwhile,heatabarbecuechargrillorchargrillpantomedium-high.Placethebanana

leavesonthechargrillforaminuteoneachside,tosoftenthemandmakethemeasiertoworkwith.

Nowplaceoneleaf,shinysidedown,verticallyonyourworksurface.Placetheotherleaf,shinysidedown,horizontallyacrossthemiddleofthefirstleaftoformacross.

Nowplacethechickenmixtureinthemiddleoftheleaves.Flattenthefillingouttoforma20cm(8inch)square.Foldtheleavesup,onesideatatime,overthefilling,toformonebigsecureparcel.

Placetheparcelonthechargrill,seamsidedown.Cookfor15minutesoneachside.

Cuttheleavesopenandservethemixturewithstickyrice.

TEA-INFUSEDSTICKYSESAMEDUMPLINGSMAKES12

Tea formed the basis of an important and complex series of trading routes that criss-crossed south-westChina, connecting the country to Tibet,Nepal,Myanmar and India.Crossingsomeofthehighestterrainintheworld,theserouteswerecollectivelyknownasthe TeaHorseTrail,Green tea imparts agreat fragrance to these sweet, sticky, chewydumplings.AsIwasmakingthemamongtheteafields,itbeganbucketingwithrain,soIthought I might as well collect the rainwater for my dumpling skins. They turned outperfect.

INGREDIENTS

75g(2oz)glutinousriceflour

35g(1oz)riceflour

teaspoonsalt

20g(oz)darkpalmsugar(jaggery),choppedintosmallpieces

2tablespoonsgreentealeaves

teaspoonwhitesesameseeds,toasted

teaspoonblacksesameseeds,toasted

METHOD

Inamixingbowl,combinethericefloursandthesalt.Add100ml(3floz)waterandstirwithaspoonuntilthemixtureiswellcombinedandcomestogetherasastickybutsmoothdough.

Dividethedoughinto12equalportions.Rolleachportionintoasmallball.

Workingwithoneportionatatime,pushoneachonewithyourthumbtoformasmallhollowinthecentre.Placeteaspoonofthepalmsugarineachone.Sealthehollowbysqueezingthedoughtogetheroverit,thengentlyrolleachdumplingintoaneatballshapeagain,pinchingtosealwell.Placeonplasticwrapsotheydontsticktotheworksurface.

Bringalargesaucepanofwatertotheboilandaddthetealeaves.Workingintwobatches,boilthedumplingsfor6minutes,oruntiltheyrisetothesurface.

Removewithaslottedspoon,allowingthewatertodrainoff,andplacethedumplingsstraightontoaservingplatter.

Sprinklewiththesesameseedsandservehot.

MYANMARYANGONTOKENGTUNG

MyanmarisAsiashiddengem,mostpeoplestillknowitasBurma,butithasbeenmorethan20yearssincethecountrysnamechanged,Despitethepoliticalattentionthisnationhasreceived,nothingpreparedmeforwhatIfound.Tocall it a secretparadisewouldprobablybe toomuch,but the respect thesegenerouspeoplehaveforeachother,theirsenseofcommunityandtheirmoralstandardsmovedmetotearsonmorethanoneoccasion,Inmanyways,lifeinMyanmariswhatIimaginelifewaslikealongtimeago.

WhenIfirsttoldpeopleIwasgoingtoMyanmar,andwouldbelookingspecificallyatitsregionalfoods,Iwassurprisedathowmanyofthemwarnedmeagainstit.Theysaidthefoodwasterrible,thatitalltastedthesameabitlikeIndianfoodbutlessinteresting.

IwasastoundedthatthefoodofacountrynestledbetweenChina,Thailand,India,BangladeshandLaoswouldnothavebeeninfluencedbyitsneighbours,orhavedevelopeditsownexcitingcuisine,MyapprehensiondisappearedthefirsttimeItriedthenationaldish,mohinga.

Mohingaisadelicioussoupofgreattextureandflavour,suitedtoanytimeoftheday,ItwasjustthefirstofsomanydishesthatIwasofferedandcametolove.

Wewereamazedbythegenerousnatureofthelocalpeople.EveryoneIspoketowantedtheinternationalcommunitytorecognisethem,tovisitandbringnewopportunitiestothecountry.ThegroupItravelledwithweretheveryfirstinternationaltelevisioncrewtovisitMyanmarwithpermissiontofilmanddocumentthepeopleslives,basedontheirfoodandtraditions.

Myanmarisbestknownforitspoliticalunrestanditsinternationalboycotts,butIwasnottheretolookatthesethings;Iwastheretoexperiencethepeople,thelandscape,thefoodand,tomysurprise,somereallygoodlocalwine!

Basedonallthesethings,MyanmarisoneofmyfavouriteSouth-EastAsiancountries.

IstartedmytripintheformercapitalYangon,whereIexploredthealmostendlessstreetsfilledwithbusymarketsandroadsidevendors,beforeheadingintotheShanstate,whereIdiscoveredmyfavouriteShandish,tofunwe,ontheshoresofInleLake.Next,Itravellednortheast,stoppingatKengtung,aquiet,picturesquetownsurroundedbyrustichilltribevillagesandancientBuddhistmonasteries.

NeverhaveIvisitedacountrywherethelocalsweresowarmandinviting.Peoplewouldsay,againandagain,Youaremyguest,please,wearesohonouredtohaveyou.TaketheheartofMyanmartotheworld,andletthemcometovisitus.

YangonVisitingYangon, the former capital ofMyanmar, is an experience like noother,Beforeindependencein1948,thecountrywasconsideredaprovinceofBritishIndia,ThecityisacombinationofBritish,Myanmar,ChineseandIndianinfluences,andisknownfor itscolonialarchitecture,YangonishometotheShwedagonPagoda,built2500yearsagotoenshrine eight strands ofBuddhas hair, It remains an important pilgrimage site for theMyanmar people, and for Buddhists from around the world, The spirit of Yangon isundeniablyin itscolourful, livelystreets, filledwithmarkets,streetfoodandvendorsofeverykind.

WheneverIvisitanewcountry,myfirstpointofcall,todiscoverthecuisineandculture,isalwaysthelocalmarkets.InmyfirstthreeminutesinYangonIlearntthreenewthings:bananatrunksareusedincooking;sandalwoodisusedtoprotecttheskinfromthesun;andMyanmarsnationaldishismohinga.Itriedmohingaforthefirsttimeandfellinlovewithitimmediately.Itsflavourandtexturewasfartoocomplexformetobeabletopinpointeveryingredient,soIgrabbedmybananatrunkandsetofftomeetKin-Kin,amohingaspecialist.

IconnectedinstantlywithKin-Kinitwaslikehangingoutwithmygreat-auntie.Wetalkedoffood,ingredients,flavours,aromas,cookingtechniques,traditionsandherloveforMyanmar.Illneverforgetherwordsasshespoonedthebrightyellowturmericpowderintothesizzlingpan:MyanmaristheGoldenLand.

Withtheintricaciesofthenationaldishundermybelt,ImademywaytoShwedagon,aspectacularilluminatedgoldenpagodastandingonahilloverlookingthecity.LocallegendsaysitwasbuiltduringthetimeoftheBuddha.AsIentereditssacredgrounds,Iinstantlyfeltitsspiritualenergy.Peoplecomefromalloverthecountrytoworship,withmanydonatingmoneyorgoldtothetemple.Itstipisencrustedwithover7000diamondsandrubies,anditwasbuiltfrommorethan21,000solidgoldbars.

WhatIloveaboutYangonisthatinthecentreoftownthereisaBuddhisttemple,sittingacrosstheroadfromaCatholicchurch,whichisnextdoortoaMuslimmosquealllivingandworshippinginharmony.Acityofsomanydifferentculturesandbeliefsmeanstherearealsomanyfoodstyles.IfoundafamilymakingChineseeggnoodles,astreetstallgrillingroti,ateashoppouringblackteawithcondensedmilk,afactorymakingpopiahskinsandbusyeateriesservingspicycurries.

Rarelyarefilmcrewsgrantedaccessintothisintriguingcity.Wefeltweweredefinitelydiscoveringtheunknown.

CHARGRILLEDEGGPLANT&PRAWNSALADSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

The kingly eggplant is actually a fruit part of the nightshade family, along withtomatoes,potatoes,capsicum(peppers)andtobacco.HereIuseJapaneseeggplantsas theyareskinny, longandhavethinskin,makingthemperfectforchargrilling.Thecookedfleshbecomesmoistandcreamyandtakesonalovelydeepsmokiness,whichismyfavouritecharacterofthisdish.WhenIcookedthisrecipeonthestreetsofYangon,allthelocalfood-stallownersofferedto give up their chargrill barbecue forme. I couldnt accept, as itmeant they couldntoperatetheirownstall.Buttheywereadamantonhelping,soofftheywentandbroughtbacktheirfamilybarbecuefromhome!ThepeopleofMyanmarwouldhavetobeamongthemostgenerousintheworld.

INGREDIENTS

4Japaneseeggplants(aubergines)

2redAsianshallots,finelysliced

1handfulcoriander(cilantro),torn

1tablespoonGarlicOil(seeNote)


juiceoflime

1teaspoonsesameseeds,toasted

1teaspoonFriedGarlic(seeNote)

1teaspoonFriedRedAsianShallots(seeNote)

6cookedtigerprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined

2teaspoonsroastedcrushedunsaltedpeanuts

METHOD

Pierceeacheggplantseveraltimesusingasharpknife,topreventthemburstingonthegrill.Heatabarbecuechargrillorchargrillpantomedium.

Chargrilltheeggplantsfor10minutes,oruntilcharredalloverandsofttotouch,turningoften.

Placetheeggplantsundercoldslowrunningwaterandpeeloffanddiscardthecharredskin.

Nowslicetheeggplantsinto2cm(inch)piecesandplaceinamixingbowl.Addtheremainingingredients,reservinghalfthepeanutsasagarnish.Addapinchofseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperandcombinewell.

Transfertoaservingbowlandarrangeafewoftheprawnsontop.Sprinklewiththeremainingpeanutsandserve.

VEGETABLESPRINGROLLSMAKES12(SERVES4)

Walkingdown17thStreetinYangonIstumbledacrossakitchenwithsixsweatyyoungcooksmakingpopiahskins tromrice flourandwater,Popiah (kawpyant)means thincrepe,Originating inChina, thisdishmade itsway throughMalaysiaandSingapore toMyanmar,Itwasincredibletowatchthegraceandskillofthosecooks;theymadeitlooksoeasy,WhenIgaveitagoIendedupsplatteredwithbatter!Ifmakingthepopiahskinsat home, try to get hold of a thin, non-stick crepe pan, to make the crepes as thin aspossible.

INGREDIENTS

1tablespoonpeanutoil

1garlicclove,finelychopped

75g(2oz)beansprouts

65g(2oz/cup)grateddaikonradish

1smallcarrot,grated

50g(2oz)youngfreshortinnedbambooshoots,finelysliced

75g(2oz/1cup)finelyshreddedChinesecabbage

25g(oz)glassnoodles,soakedinhotwaterfor20minutes,thendrained

60g(2oz/cup)finelyslicedAsiancelery(glossary)

1smallspringonion(scallion),finelysliced

50g(2oz)friedtofupuffs,finelysliced

teaspoonseasalt

teaspoonsugar


12butterlettuceleaves

12popiahskins(seerecipebelow,orusefrozenones)

1tablespoonsFriedGarlic(seeNote)

1tablespoonsFriedRedAsianShallots(seeNote)

1tablespoonschoppedpeanuts

Chinese-stylechillisauce,fordipping

POPIAHSKINS

500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

2teaspoonsseasalt

METHOD

Tomakethepopiahskins,useanelectricmixerwithapaddleattachmenttobeattheflour,saltand500ml(17floz/2cups)wateronmedium-highspeedfor30minutes.Thedoughwillbereadywhenitissmooth,rubberyandcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Nowkneadthedoughbyhand,byrepeatedlyliftingitupandslammingitbackdownintothebowluntilitstartstoholdtogetherinropes.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast30minutes.

Meanwhile,heatawokovermedium-highheat.Addthepeanutoilandsautthegarlicfor1minute,oruntilfragrant.Addthebeansprouts,daikon,carrot,bambooshoots,cabbageandnoodlesandstir-fryfor2minutes.Nowaddthecelery,springonionandtofuandstir-fryforafurtherminute.Seasonwiththesalt,sugarandsoysauceandstir-fryfor1minutemore.Removethemixturefromthewokandleavetocoolfor5minutes.

Dividethedoughintoaboutfivesmallbatchesforeasyhandling.Heata26cm(10inch)non-stickcrepepanovermediumheat.Holdthedoughwithonehandandsmearitoverthehotpaninacircularmotion,onlyjustcoveringthesurfaceofthepan.Thedoughshouldbeextremelythin,andbarelybutevenlycoveringthebaseofthepan.Cookfor1minute,oruntiltheedgeofthecrepestartstocurlup.Usingyourotherhand,carefullypeeltheskinfromthepanandplaceitonaplate.Continuemakingmoreskinsuntilthedoughisfinished.(Anyunusedsheetscanbefrozen.)

Toassembletherolls,placealettuceleafonapopiahskin,thenplacealittlevegetablemixturelengthwaysoverthelettuce.Addasprinkleoffriedgarlic,friedshallotsandpeanuts.Rollthebottomup,thenfoldtheleftandrightsidesin,creatinganenvelope.Nowkeeprollingup,intoanicetightroll.Repeatwiththeremainingingredients.

Sliceeachrollintothirdsandservewithchillisauce.

KINGPRAWN&TOMATOCURRYSERVES4

MyanmarcuisinehasastrongIndianinfluence,evidentinthevarietiesofamazingcurriesonoffer,However theMyanmarcurryhasdeveloped itsownidentity; it isnotasspicy,heavyorrichasa typical Indiancurry,Thisdish isaperfectexampleof the lighterandmore delicateMyanmar style of curry.When cooking your curry paste,make sure yougiveittimetoslowlycaramelise,InMyanmarthisprocessiscalledsipyan,meaningtoallowtheoilstoreturn,ThisprocessisessentialinMyanmarcooking.

INGREDIENTS

8rawjumbokingprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined,leavingtheheadandtailintact

largepinchofgroundturmeric

largepinchofseasalt

1tablespoonfishsauce

4ripetomatoes,sliced

1teaspoonsugar

teaspoonsweetpaprika

coriander(cilantro)leaves,togarnish

SPICEPASTE

5redAsianshallots,roughlychopped

3garliccloves,peeled

4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshgalangal,peeledandsliced

3driedchillies,soakedinhotwaterfor10minutes,thendrained


2teaspoonsgroundturmeric

METHOD

Coattheprawnswiththeturmeric,saltand2teaspoonsofthefishsauce.Leavetomarinatefor10minutes.

Tomakethespicepaste,poundtheshallot,garlic,galangalandchilliesintoafinepasteusingalargemortarandpestle,orinafoodprocessor.

Heatthepeanutoilinawokorsaucepanoververylowheat.Addthespicepasteandturmericandsautfor15minutes,oruntilslightlycaramelised.

Stirinthetomatoes,sugar,paprika,remainingfishsauceand125ml(4floz/cup)water.

Simmerfor10minutes,oruntilthesauceisthickandthetomatoeshavebrokendown.

Addtheprawnsandcookfor2minutesoneachside.Garnishwithcorianderandserve.

MOHINGASERVES4

Mohingatranslatesasasoupsnack.ThisnoodlesoupisMyanmarsbelovednationaldish.Itisservedonthestreets,inthemarkets,andeveninfinerestaurants,TheMyanmaradoreitasmuchastheJapaneseloveramenandtheVietnameselovepho,Thisintricate,complexdishhasmanylayersofflavoursandtextures,soitneedssometimetocreate,butitisdefinitelyworthit.NowIdounderstanditmaybedifficulttogetbananatrunkheartfromyour localAsianstore, soyoucanuse finelysliced rawor tinnedbananablossominsteadthereisnoneedtoboilitbeforeusing.

INGREDIENTS

100g(3oz)ricevermicellinoodles

2hard-boiledeggs,halved

100g(3oz)boiledbananatrunkheart(glossary),sliced,optional

4coriander(cilantro)sprigs,togarnish

4snake(yard-long)beans,finelysliced

chilliflakes,forsprinkling

limewedges,toserve

BROTH

1kg(2lb3oz)wholecatfishorsilverperch,cleaned

1lemongrassstem,bruised

2garliccloves,bashed

1teaspoongroundturmeric

3tablespoonstinnedchickpeas,mashed

85g(3oz/cup)ToastedRicePowder(seeNote)

8redAsianshallots,peeled

80ml(2floz/cup)fishsauce

SPICEPASTE

3lemongrassstems,whitepartonly,finelysliced

4wholedriedchillies,soakedinboilingwaterfor10minutes,thendrained

4redAsianshallots,diced

4garliccloves,diced

2cm(inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandfinelysliced


2teaspoonsshrimppaste



METHOD

Tomakethebroth,placethewholefishinalargesaucepanwiththelemongrass,garlicandturmeric.Addenoughcoldwatertocoverthefishandbringtotheboil.Skimoffanyimpurities,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor20minutes.Strainthebrothandreserveit.Removethefishmeatfromthebones,discardingtheskinandbones.

Meanwhile,makeastartonyourspicepaste.Poundthelemongrass,wholedriedchillies,shallot,garlicandgingerintoasmoothpasteusingalargemortarandpestle,orinafoodprocessor.

Heatthepeanutoilinasaucepanoverlowheat.Addthespicemixtureandsautfor20minutes,oruntilslightlycaramelised.Stirintheshrimppaste,turmericandpaprika.Nowaddtheflakedfish,mixinggentlyuntilthefishiswellcoated.Cookoverlowheatforafurther5minutes,toallowtheflavourstoinfuse.

Returnthebrothtothelargesaucepan.Addthefishmixture,mashedchickpeas,ricepowder,shallots,fishsauceandapinchofseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper.Stirtocombine,thensimmerfor30minutes.

Meanwhile,cookthenoodlesinasaucepanofboilingwaterfor2minutes,thenremovethepanfromtheheatandstandthenoodlesinthewaterfor5minutes.Drainwell,rinseundercoldwater,thendrainwellagain.

Addtheboiledeggstothebroth,withthebananatrunk,ifusing.

Dividethenoodlesamongfourbowls,thenladlethebrothoverthenoodles.Garnishwiththecoriander,snakebeansandchilliflakesandservewithlimewedges.

InleLakeInleLakealong,hotdustybustripnortheastofYangonisinMyanmarslargeststate,calledShan.Ninemajorethnicgroupscallthisregionhome,includingtheShantribe,thesecondlargestinthecountry,Thepeopleherehavelongbeenknownfortheirpoliticalandculturalindependence.Thelakeitselfishuge,coveringabout160squarekilometres,butitwasnt until a boat trip on the lake that I really started to appreciate the areas naturalbeauty.

FortheShanpeople,thelakeistheirhome.Canalsaretheirroads,canoesaretheirtransport,andtheirbackyardsarefloatinggardens.Thiswateryenvironmentliterallyshapestheirvillagelifestyles.

MostofthepeopleonInleLakegrowtomatoesabout61,000tonneseveryyear.Theydontonlypickredtomatoes;localsloveusingthegreenonesrawinasaladwithchilli,coriander(cilantro)andblacksesameseeds.Theirgreentomatoesarecrisp,slightlytartandyetalsosweet.Afterwards,backinSydney,Imadethesaladwithgreenheirloomtomatoesandeveryonelovedit.

TheotherShandishthatwowedmewastofunoodles.IheardofthisunusualregionalspecialtybackinYangon,andwastoldIhadtotryitduringmyvisit.MisuuBorit,owneroftheInlePrincessResort,kindlyinvitedustoherfamilyhometocookthismuch-loveddishwithhermother.

Whenmyboatarrivedatherfloatingstilthome,Iwasgreetedbythewholeextendedfamily.Thereweregreat-aunties,uncles,cousins,nephews,nieces,grandchildren,in-laws,andeventheheadcheffromtheresort,Nwe-Oo.Sheshowedmeahugebucketofchickpeassoakinginwater.Thisiswhatwemakethetofufrom,shesaid.Chickpeasnotsoyabeans.

Afterwestrainedthechickpeas,Isatonthetimberfloorwithfourfamilymembersgrindingthesoftenedchickpeasinoldstonemills.Wethentiedthickropetothebeamsontheroof,suspendedalargewoodenframeandtiedmuslin(cheesecloth)toit,makinganenormousstrainertodrainthechickpealiquid.Wecookedtheliquidonlowheatuntilitthickened,thenaddedturmeric,chicken,bokchoy(pakchoy),ricenoodlesandbeansproutsandfinisheditwithalovelysugarcanesyrup.Thetofuhadatexturelikecustard,andwhencombinedwiththesilkyricenoodlesitwasunlikeanyothernoodledishIhadevertried.

InleLakeissuchaspecialplace.Thepeopleareamongthefriendliestintheworld.ItisaplacewhereImademanylovelyfriends,andoneIwillreturntosoon

INLELAKEGREENTOMATOSALADSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

InleLakesmainsourcesofincomearefishingandgrowingtomatoes.Itwasincredibletosee how locals actually grow these tomatoes; they are all grown onwater, lined up inrows, just like winemakers grow their grape vines. Covering about 7000 acres, thesefloating farms produce some 61,000 tonnes of tomatoes each year! Im using greentomatoesinthissaladasIlovetheircrunchytextureandmild,sweet,tangyflavour.Dontgoforyounggreentomatoes;choosematuregreenones.

INGREDIENTS

5greentomatoes,sliced

3redAsianshallots,sliced

1handfulslicedcoriander(cilantro)

2teaspoonsroastedcrushedunsaltedpeanuts

2teaspoonsgroundblacksesameseeds


3teaspoonsGarlicOil(seeNote)

TOGARNISH

1redchilli,sliced

coriander(cilantro)sprigs

teaspoonFriedGarlic(seeNote)

METHOD

Inabowl,combinethetomato,shallot,coriander,peanuts,sesameseeds,chilliflakes,garlicoilandapinchofseasalt.Mixwell.

Garnishwiththechilliandcoriander,sprinklewiththefriedgarlicandserveimmediately.

NOTE

Tomakefriedgarlicandgarlicoil,pour250ml(9floz/1cup)vegetableoilintoawokandheatto180C(350F),oruntilacubeofbreaddroppedintotheoilbrownsin15seconds.Add6finelychoppedgarlicclovesandfryuntilgoldenbecarefulnottoovercookthegarlic,asitwillkeepcookingonceitisremovedfromtheheat.Strainthegarlicthroughametalsieveandplaceonpapertowelstodry.Storethefriedgarlicinanairtightcontainerforupto4days;thisrecipemakesabout2tablespoons.Reservethegarlic-flavouredoiltouseinsalads;itwillkeepforupto2weeksifstoredinacoolplace.

CRISPSPRINGONIONFRITTERSMAKES10

ThisisthetastiestShansnack,myabsolutefavourite,Itistheperfectdrinkingdishorasthe ladies inMyanmar call it, a gossipingdish,The fillingmay feel a littlemoist andloose, but itwill all come together and crisp up as you deep-fry it. Traditionally, thesefrittersarewrappedupinprettylotusflowersanddippedinthetamarindsauce,butbetelleavesworkwelltoo.

INGREDIENTS

500ml(17floz/2cups)peanutoil,fordeep-frying

10lotusflowersorfreshbetelleaves(glossary)

TAMARINDDIPPINGSAUCE

125ml(4floz/cup)TamarindWater(seeNote)

2teaspoonssugar

2teaspoonsfishsauce

2cm(inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandpounded

2smallgarliccloves,peeledandpounded


2tablespoonschoppedcoriander(cilantro)

FRITTERS

10springonions(scallions)

1ripetomato,sliced

1redAsianshallot,finelysliced

2cm(inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandpounded

2garliccloves,peeledandpounded

1teaspoonhotpaprika

1teaspoonseasalt

90g(3oz/cup)riceflour

45g(1oz/cup)glutinousriceflour

teaspoonbakingpowder

125ml(4floz/cup)beer

METHOD

Putthedippingsauceingredientsinabowlandmixuntilwellcombined.Setasideuntilreadytoserve.

Tomakethefritters,cutthegreenpartsofthespringonioninto3cm(1inch)lengthsandfinelyslicethewhiteends.Placeinabowlwiththetomato,shallot,ginger,garlic,paprikaandsalt.Addthericefloursandbakingpowderandmixtocombine.Slowlystirinthebeer,addingjustenoughsothateverythingstickstogether.

Heatthepeanutoilinawokoverhighheat;youcantelltheoilishotenoughwhenyoudropinabreadcrumbanditstartstocook.

Dividethefrittermixtureinto10evenportions,clumpingeachtogethertoformafritterabout56cm(2-1inches)across.Addthemtothehotoil,inbatchesifnecessary,andfryfor23minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrownandcrisp.Drainbrieflyonpapertowels.

Wrapthefritterswithalotusflowerorbetelleafandservewiththedippingsauce.Enjoywithbeer.

NOTE

Tomaketamarindwater,soak100g(3oz)tamarindpulpin400ml(13floz)boilingwater.Breakitupalittlewithawhisk,thenleaveuntilcoolenoughtohandleUsingyourhands,breakthemixtureintoathickpaste,Passthemixturethroughasieve;youshouldgetabout375ml(12floz/1cups)tamarindwater.

INLESTUFFEDFISHSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

Iwas introduced to thisdishbyachef from theKarenethnicminoritygroup,or LongNeck people. Nwe-Oo was so proud of her cuisine and passionate about sharing thebeautyofShancooking.IspentmanydaysinherkitchenatInlePrincessResort,learningthesecretsoftraditionalMyanmar cooking. If only the whole world were as kind-hearted and generous as thepeopleofMyanmar.

INGREDIENTS

4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandchopped

3garliccloves,chopped

500g(1lb2oz)wholecarporbarramundi,cleaned

1teaspoonlightsoysauce

teaspoonseasalt


125ml(4floz/cup)tomatopassata(puredtomatoes)

teaspoongroundturmeric



1largetomato,diced

vegetableoil,fordeep-frying

2coriander(cilantro)sprigs

METHOD

Usingamortarandpestle,poundthegingerandgarlictoapaste,thensetaside.

Laythefishflatonachoppingboard.Usingasharpknife,andstartingfromitsspine,carefullyslicedowntowardsitsbelly,ononesideonly,followingthebonelinebutdontsliceallthewaythrough.Thisistocreateapocketforthestuffing,about15cm(6inches)long.

Nowcoatthefishwiththesoysauce,salt,andhalfthegingerandgarlicpaste.Leavetomarinatefor10minutes.

Heatthepeanutoilinahotpan.Stirinthepassataandtheremaininggarlicandgingerpaste.Cook,stirring,overmediumheatfor10minutes.Addtheturmeric,paprikaandspringonionandcookforafurther5minutes.

Allowthepassatamixturetocoolalittle,thenstuffhalfthemixtureintothepocketinthe

fish.Securethepocketbytyingthefishbacktogetherwithkitchenstring.

Stirthetomatoand125ml(4floz/cup)hotwaterintotheremainingstuffingmixtureandsimmerforafurther5minutes.

Meanwhile,half-fillawokwithvegetableoilandheatto180C(350F),oruntilacubeofbreaddroppedintotheoilbrownsin15seconds.Addthefishanddeep-fryfor8minutes,oruntilcrisp,turningthefishoverhalfwayduringcooking.

Transferthefishtoaservingplate,thencutawayanddiscardthestring.Topthefishwiththeremainingstuffingmixture.Garnishwiththecorianderandserve.

SHANWARMCHICKPEATOFUNOODLESOUPSERVES4

Thismost-loveddishinShanismadefromtofu,butnotyourusualsoyabeantofu,Thetofu is actuallymade from chickpeas! I was introduced to this dish by a lovely ladynamedMisuu. I satwithher familygrindingsoakedchickpeas ina traditionaloldstonemillanexperienceIwillneverforget.Youllfindchickpeaflourinhealthfoodshops,Forthisrecipeyouwillneedtoletitsettleincoldwaterovernight,sostartadayahead.

INGREDIENTS

400g(14oz/3cups)besan(chickpeaflour)



5redAsianshallots,diced

3garliccloves,peeledandpounded

4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandpounded

3tomatoes,diced


3boneless,skinlesschickenthighs(about450g/1lb),cutinto3cm(1inch)chunks

TOSERVE

400g(14oz)freshricenoodles,cookedaccordingtopacketinstructions

200g(7oz)babybokchoy(pakchoy),leavesseparated

200g(7oz)beansprouts

1tablespoonblacksesameseeds

1tablespoonroastedcrushedunsaltedpeanuts

2teaspoonsFriedGarlic(seeNote)


1tablespoonsugarcanesyruporcanesyrup

slicedspringonion(scallion),togarnish

chilliflakes,togarnish

limewedges,toserve

METHOD

Inalargebowl,whisktogetherthebesanand1litre(34floz/4cups)coldwateruntil

smooth.Leavetosettleovernight.

Ladletheliquidfromthetopofthebesanmixtureintoasaucepan.Placeoverlowheatandcookfor15minutes,stirringorwhiskingsoitdoesntgolumpy.

Nowbegintoaddafewtablespoonsoftheremainingbesanmixtureevery2minutesforthenext15minutes,whiskingorstirringoften,untilallthemixtureisincorporated.Theliquidwillgetthickerandthicker.

Meanwhile,placeafryingpanoverlowheat.Addthepeanutoilandsauttheturmeric,shallot,garlicandgingerfor15minutes.Nowaddthetomato,paprika,chickenandapinchofseasalt.Stir-fryovermediumheatfor10minutes,oruntilthechickeniscooked.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

Brieflyblanchthebabybokchoyinboilingwater,drainandsetaside.

Toastthesesameseedsinafryingpanovermediumheatuntilfragrant.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

Toserve,dividethenoodlesamongfoursoupbowls.Ladlethebesanmixtureoverthenoodles,thentopwiththechickenmixture.Topeachbowlwiththebokchoy,beansprouts,sesameseeds,peanuts,friedgarlic,soysauceandsugarcanesyrup.

Garnishwithspringonionandchilliflakesandservewithlimewedges.

KengtungKengtungwasourlaststopinMyanmar,beforeheadingofftoThailand.Iwasdrawntherebythelaidbacklifestyle,thehilltribevillagesandtheabsenceoftourists,Kengtungisthesecond largest town in the Shan state, Built on the shores of Nawng Tung Lake, it issurrounded bymountains, Its architecture ranges from ancient temples andmonasteriesandmoulderingcolonialhousestonondescriptmodernstructures.

KengtungisthecentrefortheKungminoritygroup,whichmakesupabout80percentofthetownspopulation,ThenameKengtungmeansWalledCityofTungandreferstothemythicalfounderofthecity,TheregionaroundthecitywasoncetiedtotheLannaKingdomofnorthernThailand,andtherearemanysimilaritiesbetweenthetwotoday.

Itisthehilltribepeoplewhomakethisareasofascinating,Thecompletelyself-sufficientAnhhilltribevillageIwantedtovisitwashighupinthemountains,butmonsoonmudslidesmadethetrickytripmuchslower,WereachedthevillageafterfourhoursofdrivingandweregreetedbyavillageeldernamedAye,whowasalsothevillageshamanahealerofthesick,Ayewasinhisnineties;hehaddarkleatheryskinandjet-blackteeth,HetoldmeIhadhorriblewhiteteethandthatIshouldrubblackbarkonthemtomakethemmorepresentable.

Ayeusedtogoonhuntingtripsintothejungleandsaidtheyweresometimesoutthereforweeks,sonaturallyitwasimportantthattheytooksomelong-lastingfoodsuppliestosustainthem,Youllfindoutmoreabouthisamazingtraditionaljungle-huntingrecipe.

Backintown,themainmarketisthelifebloodofKengtung,Imsurethelocalfoodvendorshadntseenmanyforeignersbeforeastheywerekeenforustosampleeverythingtheyhadonoffer:curries,pastes,soups,sweetpuddings,andevenbuffaloskinthathadbeencharred,boiled,thentossedinasaladofbananablossomandsnakebeans,Butonedishwasastandout,madeofshreddedyoungbambooshoots,wrappedaroundamixtureoffinelychoppedpork,garlic,chilliandgingerleaves,thenflash-fried,Itwascrunchy,softandchewyallatthesametime,Youllfindthiswonderfulrecipe.

Thatday,IalsolearntanimportantMyanmarcustom,WhenvisitingaMyanmarfamily,alwaysbringbambooasagift,Bamboogrowsstrongandtallandisverydurable,asymbolofthefamilysunity,growth,strengthandgoodhealth.

WARMBUFFALOSKINSALADSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

BuffaloskinisconsideredadelicacybytheethnicminoritygroupsofMyanmar.CookingthisdishwithMaiher,avillageelder,wastheveryfirsttimeIhadtriedit,andIactuallyreallyenjoyeditstexture.Thebuffaloskinitselfdidnthavemuchflavour,butitabsorbedandcarriedtheflavoursthatwerecombinedwithit.Ifyoucantgetyourhandsonbuffaloskin,usecookedshreddedporkskininstead;youcanfindthisrefrigeratedatyourlocalVietnamesemarket,whereitiscalleddabi,Ifyouareusingdabi,youdontneed toboil it just toss itwith theother ingredientsas it isalreadycookedandreadytogo.

INGREDIENTS

1freshbananablossomheart(glossary)


3garliccloves,diced




1ripetomato,chopped

1teaspoonseasalt

1redchilli,sliced

80g(3oz)driedbuffaloskin,sliced

2snake(yard-long)beans,sliced

3garlicchives,sliced

1Indianroot(glossary),sliced,or1babyleekorpencilleek,whitepartonly,sliced

40g(1oz/cup)roastedcrushedunsaltedpeanuts,plusextratogarnish

coriander(cilantro),togarnish

METHOD

Peelawayanddiscardtheouterleavesfromthebananablossomheart.Cookthebananablossomheartinasaucepanofboilingwaterfor15minutes,oruntiltender.Strain,slicefinelyandsetaside.

Heatafryingpanovermediumheat.Addthepeanutoilandsautthegarlicandshallotuntilfragrant.

Addtheturmericandpaprikaandsautfor3minutes.Nowaddthetomato,salt,chilliandbuffaloskinandstir-fryforafurther3minutes.

Meanwhile,placethebananablossom,snakebeans,garlicchives,Indianrootorleekandthepeanutsinalargemixingbowl.Tosstogetherwell,thenaddthehotingredientsfromthepan.Mixwell.

Transferthemixturetoaservingbowl.Servegarnishedwithcorianderandsomeextracrushedpeanuts.

YOUNGBAMBOOSHOOTSSTUFFEDWITHPORK&GINGERLEAFSERVES4asasnackorstarter

ThefoodatKengtungslocalmarketswaslikealongbanquet:rowsoftableswerefilledwithallmannerofdishes,rangingfromsmallsnackstocolourfulcurrypastesanddips,tomainmealsready-cookedandpackaged.Ivisitedduringmonsoonseason,whenbamboogrows abundantly, and one unusual-looking dish I really liked was shredded youngbambooshoots,stuffedwithporkandflash-fried,Bambooissuchaversatileplant,andaverysustainableonetoo,Itcangrowuptoonemetre(threefeet)overnight,andthefreshshootsareabsolutelydelicious.

INGREDIENTS

2smallfreshyoungbambooshoots,toughouterlayerdiscarded

100g(3oz)minced(ground)pork

1greenchilli,sliced

1redchilli,sliced

3garliccloves,diced

2gingerleaves(glossary),finelysliced,optional

vegetableoil,fordeep-frying

StickyRice,toserve

METHOD

Placethebambooshootsinasaucepan,coverwithplentyofcoldwaterandbringtotheboil.Allowtoboilfor1hour,oruntiltender.Drainandleavetocool.

Laythebambooshootsonachoppingboard.Holdthethickendofoneshootwithonehand.Withyourotherhand,quicklyruntwotoothpicksdowntheshoot,starting1cm(inch)fromthethickend,downtothetip,creatingfinethinshreds.Repeatwiththeothershoot.

Placethepork,chillies,garlicandapinchofseasaltonalargechoppingboardandpileintoamound.Usingtwosharpknivesorcleavers,mincealltheseingredientstogether.

Placeoneheapedtablespoonoftheporkfillinginthemiddleofonebambooshoot.Sprinklesomegingerleafontop,thencloseuptheparcel,securingitwithbambooropeorkitchenstring.Repeatwiththeremainingingredients.

Half-fillamedium-sizedwokwithvegetableoilandheatto180C(350F),oruntilacubeofbreaddroppedintotheoilbrownsin15seconds.Addthebambooshootsoneatatimeanddeep-fryfor34minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrownandcrisp.Drainbrieflyonpapertowels.

Cutthebambooshootsinhalfandservewithstickyrice.

AROMATICSTIR-FRIEDSMOKEDBEEFSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

I hitched a ride on top of an old jeep to a small village occupied by the Anh ethnicminority, where I met Aye, the village shaman. The first thing he said is that I havehorribleteeth.HetoldmetheyweretoowhiteandthatIshouldrubthemwithblackbarkeverydaysotheyturnblack.Onlyanimalsandbeastshavewhiteteeth,hesaid.I didnt heed his dental advice, but I did take his advice on a traditionalAnh dish hismotherusedtocook.Whenthemenheadedintothejungleonlonghuntingtrips,theyalsotooknon-perishablefoodsintheformofdriedsmokedbeef,aromatics,rootsandpowders,whichtheywouldcookupwiththewildherbsandvegetablestheyforagedalongtheway.Andsothisdishwasborn.If you cant find smoked beef, thick beef jerky or finely sliced beef sirloin are goodsubstitutes.

INGREDIENTS

200g(7oz)driedsmokedbeef(glossary)orChinesebeefjerky

2tablespoonsvegetableoil

2garliccloves,finelysliced



5cm(2inch)pieceoffreshgalangal,peeledandsliced

1lemongrassstem,whitepartonly,finelysliced



2redchillies,sliced

8makrut(kaffirlime)leaves,julienned

1springonion(scallion),sliced


StickyRiceorsteamedjasminerice,toserve

METHOD

Putthedriedbeefinasaucepan,coverwithplentyofcoldwaterandbringtotheboil.Allowtoboilfor30minutes,oruntilsoftened.Drainwell,reserving250ml(8Vfloz/1cup)ofthecookingliquid.Allowthebeeftocool,thenslicefinelyandsetaside.

Heatafryingpanorwokovermedium-highheat.Addthevegetableoilandsautthegarlicandshallotuntilfragrant.Nowaddtheginger,galangal,lemongrass,turmeric,

paprika,chilliandapinchofseasalt.Stirinthebeefandthereservedcookingliquid,reducetheheattomedium-lowandsimmerfor4minutes.

Stirinthemakrutleavesandspringonion.Garnishwiththecorianderandservewithstickyriceorjasminerice.

SHANMEDICINALVEGETABLESOUPSERVES4

Travelling during monsoon season, we had to endure torrential rain, severe heat andhumidity, aswell as hotel air-conditioning,Host of us came downwith a cold at somestage,soIwasalwayslookingoutfortastybutmedicinaltraditionaldishes,OnemorningIwokeupfeelingundertheweather,butassoonasIcookedupthislight,subtleandveryflavoursomesoupIfeltawhole lotbetter, It just feltsogoodtoeat,Alotof thesoupsflavour comes from the dried fermented soya beans used by the localmountain ethnicgroups,Ifyoucantgetany,use thepreservedbeancurdsold inglass jarsatyour localAsianmarket,Ateaspoonwoulddothejob.

INGREDIENTS

2wholelemongrassstems

1teaspoonseasalt

2redchillies,chopped

4appleeggplants(aubergines;seeNote),cutintoquarters

12peaeggplants(aubergines;seeNote)

1Japaneseeggplant(aubergine),cutinto2cm(inch)slices

1carrot,cutinto1cm(inch)pieces

1ridgedgourd,cutinto2cm(inch)pieces(glossary)

2tablespoonssoysauce

1handfulchokoleaves

1handfulfishmintleavesorpennywortleaves(glossary)

1handfulsweetbasilorwaterspinachleaves

1handfulsafflowerleavesorwatercresssprigs




METHOD

Smashthelemongrassstemswithaheavycleaver,thentieeachoneinaknot.Placeinasaucepanwith1litre(34floz/4cups)waterandbringtotheboil.

Poundthesaltandchillitogetherusingamortarandpestle,thenaddtotheboilingwater.Whenthewaterreturnstotheboil,addthevegetablesandsoysauceandboilfor5minutes,oruntilthevegetablesaretender.

Nowstirinalltheleavesexceptthecoriander.Reducetheheattolowandsimmerforafurther2minutes.

Transfertoindividualbowlsandgarnishwiththecorianderandginger.Servewithjasminerice.

NOTE

Appleeggplantsaregreenorwhiteandaboutthesizeofgolfballs.Peaeggplants,alsocalledbabyThaieggplants,aregreenmarble-sizedeggplants,soldinclusterslikegrapes.Theyareusedwholeandburstwhenbitteninto.YoullfindthembothatAsianmarkets.

BAMBOOSALADSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

Throughout the markets of Myanmar, I had seen street vendors selling cooked redbamboo.Iwasintriguedastowheretheredbamboocamefrom,untilalocalladysharedthesecretwithme.Shewalkedmetohercornfield(asyoudoinMyanmar),andpeeledthe green husks from a corn cob, She placed them in a pot of water with the youngbamboo,broughtit totheboilandpresto:thewaterandbambooturnedred!Thismagictrick only works with fresh bamboo. If you cant get any, you can use whole bambooshoots vacuum-packed in brine; these are usually pre-cooked, so they dont need to beboiled,andwontturnred.

INGREDIENTS

1freshyoungbambooshoot

1corncobhusk

1handfullemonbasil,sliced

1tablespoonblacksesameseeds,poundedintoapowder


1teaspoonGarlicOil(seeNote)

juiceoflime

METHOD

Cutawayanddiscardthetoughouterlayerofthebambooshootthencuttheshootintoquarterslengthways.Placeinasaucepanwiththecornhusk,coverwithplentyofcoldwaterandbringtotheboil.Allowtoboilfor30minutes,oruntilthebamboobecomesalightredcolour.(Thecornhuskiswhatmakesthebambooturnredseeintroduction.)

Drainoffthewater,thenaddfreshwaterandbringtotheboilagain.Boilforafurther30minutes,thenremovethebambooandallowtocool.

Runtwotoothpicksalongthelengthofthebamboo,cuttingitintolongthinshreds.Nowcutthebamboointo4cm(linch)lengthsandtransfertoamixingbowl.

Addtheremainingingredientsandapinchofseasalt.Mixwellandserve.

THAILANDCHIANGKHONGTOCHIANGMAI

In1977,myfamilyfledVietnambyboattoescapetheaftermathoftheVietnamWar.Myfatherhadneversteeredaboatbefore,buthehadtolearnveryquicklyasitwasliterallydoordie,Mybrother,sisterandmother,whowasheavilypregnantwithme,werehiddenonthebottomdeck.

Afterafewweeksontheocean,welandedinMalaysia,butwewerepushedbackouttoseaastheMalaysianauthoritiesthoughtthereweretoomanyVietnameserefugeesarrivingbyboat.Oneweeklater,wearrivedontheshoresofThailand,whereIwaseventuallyborn.WestayedinarefugeecampinDinDaeng,justsouthofBangkok,foroneyearbeforemovingtoAustralia,soIdidntactuallyhavethepleasureofexperiencinglifeinThailand.

IwasalittleanxiousaboutreturningtomybirthcountrywouldIfeellikeaforeigner,orwoulditfeellikeIwascominghome?

AllIknewofThailandwasthatitwasSouth-EastAsiasmostinternationallyrecognisedcountry,andthatthefoodhadalwaysstayedtruetoitstraditions,despitemanyoutsideinfluences.Iwastheretoinvestigatethenortherncuisineknowntobespicier,punchierandmorepowerfulthanthefoodintherestofthecountry.

NorthernThailandisfarfrommonocultural.OneofthecrossroadsofAsia,ithasbeencaughtupinregionalwarsforcenturies.Theinfluencesofpastrulersandimmigrantshaveovertimeblendedinandoutofthefood,culture,architectureandthebloodlinesofthepeople,makingforamostinterestinganddiversestoryamongthemountainsofnorthernThailand.

IstartedmynorthernexplorationinChiangKhong,whereIhopedtocatchagiantcatfishanddiscoverthesecretsofanauthentictomyumpla.Ialsowantedtodelveintothecomplexitiesofthenorthern-stylecurrypastes,andlearnhowtocatchmyownricepaddyfrogstocookafarmersfrogcurry.

Ithentravelledtothemountainsfurthernorth,whereIvisitedanAkhavillagenearMaeSalongandpreparedarusticspicytomatodipwithanAkhagrandmotherusingthefreshestingredients.Isetupakitcheninabananaforestandusedtheheartofabananatrunktoprepareachickenandbananatrunknoodlecurry.

MyThaijourneyendedinthebustlingtownofChiangMai,whereIlappedupthenightlifeandcookednorthernThaiclassicssuchasgreenpapayasalad,barbecuedporkbellyandwarmjackfruitsalad.

Ialsosampledanassortmentofcrispyinsects,whichImsurewillfeatureinWesternfine-diningrestaurantssomedaysoon!

ChiangKhongChiangKhong faces the lao border town ofHuayXai, across theMekongRiver, LordBuddhawassaidtohavevisitedthissmallsleepytownmorethan2500yearsago,Todayitreliesmainlyonfishing,TheMekongRiveristhelifebloodofthisregion,secondonlytotheAmazonRiverinitsdiversityoffish,Itisthemajorsourceofproteinforthelocalpeople,andfishermenconstantlyworkitsrichwaters.

Myfirstdaybeganearly,whenImetMrTa,famousforcatchingthetownslargestgiantcatfish.Imethimathishome,astonesthrowfromtheMekongRiver.Hewasinhissixties,dark-skinnedandbuiltlikearock.Hegreetedmewiththefriendliestsmileandplacedhisarmsaroundmyshouldersaswewalkeddowntotherivertogether.

Wehoppedintohisboatandtravelledupstream.Hefannedhissmallfishingnetintothestrongcurrent,andweflowedbackdownstreamafewkilometresbeforeMrTastoppedhisboatandIpulledthenetin.Wecaughtmanysmallfish,whichIletgo,butthencamethebigoneanenormouscatfish!ButMrTaplayeditcool.Ah,thatsnothing,hesmiled.Ivecaughtacatfishweighing250kilogramsandgiantstingraystoo!

Hesaidheusuallycookshisfreshcatfishwithtomyum,whichmademesuperexcited.Weforagedthroughhisneighboursgardens,harvestingfreshingredientsforhisbroth.Galangal,lemongrass,chilli,makrut(kaffirlime),tomatoes,shallots,saw-toothcoriander(cilantro)thefreshorganicproducethatmakesthissoupwhatitshouldbe,notthepowderedseasoningssomeThairestaurantsuse.

FreshiskeyinnorthernThaicooking,andIlearntthisfirsthandwhenIvisitedaricepaddyfieldjustafterharvesting.Whenthericestalksarepluckedoutofthewetmuddyground,thefieldanimalsareexposed.Thatswhenthericefarmerscatchthemandcookthemupforlunch.

Withthehelpofonefarmer,Icaughtsixfrogsandoneeel.Ilettheeelgo,butthefarmerinsistedIcookafarmersricepaddyfrogcurry.ThespicepastesinnorthernThaicurriesarespicyandpungent,withloadsofredchillies,galangal,lemongrass,makrut,shrimppasteandanchovypaste.Arealpartyonthepalate.

TOMYUMPLASOUPWITHCATFISHSERVES46

IvesampledmanybowlsoftornyumsoupinAustralia,butmyThaifriendsalwayssaidtheywerent very authentic, Sowhen Imet themost experienced fisherman inChiangKhong,who says hemakes the best tom yum soup, I had to cookwith him and learn,Togetherweforagedthroughhisneighboursgardenseverythingwaseitherpluckedoffatreeordugoutoftheground,AndthefishwellIproudlycaughtthatonemyselfMrTas recipecalls forsevenbirdseyechillies,but ifyouarenotThai, Istronglysuggestcuttingthatamountbyhalf.

INGREDIENTS

2litres(68floz/8cups)fishstock(seeNote)

3lemongrassstems,whitepartonly,bruised

6cm(2inch)pieceoffreshgalangal,finelysliced

7birdseyechillies,bruised

5redAsianshallots,peeledandbruised

8makrut(kaffirlime)leaves,torn

100ml(3floz)fishsauce

400g(14oz)catfishorsilverperchfillets,cutinto2.5cm(1inch)pieces

10cherrytomatoes,quartered

3springonions(scallions),cutinto4cm(1inch)lengths


100ml(3floz)limejuice

1handfulcoriander(cilantro),togarnish


METHOD

Pourthestockintoastockpotorlargesaucepan,Addthelemongrass,galangal,chillies,shallotsandmakrutleavesandbringtotheboil,Reducetheheatandsimmerfor5minutes,Addthefishsauce,fishandcherrytomatoesandbringbacktotheboil,Skimoffanyimpurities.

Reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor6minutes,oruntilthefishisjustcooked,Stirinthespringonion,saw-toothcorianderandlimejuice,Garnishwithcorianderandservewithsteamedjasminerice.

NOTE

Tomakefishstoolplace1kg(2lb3oz)fishtrimmings(bones,headandtail)inalargosaucepanwith4halvedgarliccloves,achopped2cm(inch)pieceoffreshginger.1bashedlemongrassstem,2makrut(kaffirlime)leaves,2choppedspringonions(scallions)and2litres(68floz/8cups)water.Bringtotheboil,skimofftheimpuritiesthensimmerfor30minutes,skimmingconstantly,Pourtheslockthroughalinesieveandcool.Portionintosmalleramountsandrefrigerateorfreezeuntilrequired.

PORKCHARGRILLEDINBAMBOOSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal

ItravelledanhournorthofChiangKhongtoLahuvillage,hometotheHmongpeople,tomeet Yoda, who promised to show me his favourite local pork dish one cooked inbamboo.ButfirstIhadtochopdownatallbambootree,withonlyasmallbluntmachete!ItwastakingsolongthatIwasexpectingYodatosay,Usetheforce,Luke!Cookinginbambooimpartsagreatherbaceous,earthyflavourtofood.Ifyoudonthappentohaveabambootreeinyourbackyard,youcanmakethisdishinanearthenwareclaypot.

INGREDIENTS

50cm(20inch)lengthoflargebamboo,optional

12bananaleaves

FILLING

500g(1lb2oz)porkloin,finelysliced

3lemongrassstems,whitepartonly,finelychopped

110g(3oz/1cup)finelychoppedredAsianshallots

6cm(2inch)pieceoffreshgalangal,peeledandfinelysliced

5driedredchillies,chopped

1tablespoonseasalt

TOGARNISH

2makrut(kaffirlime)leaves,finelysliced

1longredchilli,julienned

1handfulThaibasilleaves

METHOD

Inamixi

Documents

From China to Vietnam a Food Journey Along the Mekong River