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How to Build a T-Bucket Hot Rod Roadster for Under $3,000zs'" Anniversary, Revised Edition

By Chester Greenhalgh

Copyright, Legal Notice and Disclaimer:

All contents Copyright © 2011 and 1986 by Chester Greenhalgh. All rights reserved worldwide. No part ofthis document or the related files may be reproduced or transmitted in any form, by any means(electronic, photocopying, scanning, recording, or otherwise) without the prior written permission of thepublisher.

This publication is protected under the US Copyright Act of 1976 and all other applicable international,federal, state and local laws, and all rights are reserved, including resale rights: you are not allowed togive or sell either a print or digital copy of this Guide to anyone else. Remember, that I have your nameand address. If you received this publication from anyone other than TBucketPlans.com, you've receivedan illegal, pirated copy. Please contact us via e-mail at counterfeit@tbucketplans.com and notify us of thesituation. We will protect your identity and see that you are taken care of.

Please note that much of this book is based on personal experience and anecdotal evidence. Although theauthor and publisher have made every reasonable attempt to achieve complete accuracy of the content inthis book, they assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. Also, you should use this information asyou see fit, and at your own risk. Your particular situation may not be exactly suited to the examplesillustrated here; in fact, it's likely that they won't be the same, and you should adjust your use of theinformation and recommendations accordingly.

Any trademarks, service marks, product names or named features are assumed to be the property of theirrespective owners, and are used only for reference. There is no implied endorsement if we use one ofthese terms.

Finally, use your head. Nothing in this book is intended to replace common sense, legal, medical or otherprofessional advice, and is meant to inform and entertain the reader. So have fun with this zs"Anniversary, Revised Edition of "How to Build a T-Bucket Hot Rod Roadster for Under $3000", and getyour stuff done.

Copyright © 2011 and 1986 Chester Greenhalgh. All rights reserved worldwide.

Published by

Remember, that I have your name and address.

By

Chester Greenhalgh

Copyright © 1986,2011 by Chester Greenhalgh

Yes, you canbuild thisbeautiful T-Bucketroadster forunder $30001I built 12roadsters fromthe pages ofthis book, so Iknow it works.The fiberglassbodies andstructuralsteel areavailableworldwide, asare millions of1970s eradonor cars.

---------- ----------

Table of ContentsPage

Roots 3Introduction 4Preface 5Credits 7

Chapter 1 Frame 8Chapter 2 Body 36Chapter 3 Pickup box 51Chapter 4 Bodywork 60Chapter 5 Painting 65Chapter 6 Springs 71Chapter 7 Front axle 76Chapter 8 Rear axle 95Chapter 9 Steering column 109Chapter 10 Firewall 113Chapter 11 Engine and Transmission 115Chapter 12 The Brake System 127Chapter 13 Radiator, mounts, shell and radiator cap 151Chapter 14 Battery box 168Chapter 15 Driveshaft 171Chapter 16 Fuel system 174Chapter 17 Lights 178Chapter 18 Dash 182Chapter 19 Electrical system 192Chapter 20 Gas pedal 213Chapter 21 Shift unit 216Chapter 22 Upholstery 227Chapter 23 Windshield 221Chapter 24 Title and license 239

Suppliers 240Adios! 241

---------- ----~------ Radiator, mounts, shell and radiator cap -

This book deals with all the little odds and ends you will run into while building a roadster.

We will also discuss the most economical solution to many minor problems that are totallyignored by most articles on rod-building. "Buy it from so and so" is a typical cop-out you won't

hear from me. Besides astronomical prices, most of these items you could make yourself if you

just knew how. I prefer to make everything myself, unless I can buy it cheaper. (This is whereyour magazine advertisements and internet come in handy) Since I'm not trying to steer

business in anyone's direction, I'll show you the cheapest methods I know of.

- Radiator mounts -

We'll start out with the radiator mounts. The mounts are very simple to make. They're just

two 3" pieces of 1" angle iron, held to the frame with two 5j16" bolts each.

- Cut the mounts and grind the corners round. Measure in and drill 5/16" holes -

Y2dYou can clamp them together and drill all four holes with two shots. The wide-spaced holes

attach to the frame.

- Measure from thefront of the frame 6"and trace a line downwith aT-square -

Start the hole with the 5j16" drill while a friend holds it in place. If the frame isn't painted

yet, you can just clamp it. We are going to tap this with a 5j16" X #18 tap. Whenever you want

to tap a hole, drill it out with a bit two sizes down from the bolt size intended. Normally, thiswill be the correct size for the tap. The reason for starting the hole with a 5j16" drill is to center

the tapped hole in the frame under the 5j16" hole in the mount. Just push hard enough to

break the surface, and then finish drilling with the smaller bit. I've found that redrilling the

mount with a 3j8" bit allows a considerable adjustment for the radiator slant so the radiator

angle can be at its most attractive position in relation to the body. This can be best determined

by just standing back and eyeballing.

- Position the mount down %" from the top surface of the frame-

- Radiator shell -

We're going to mount a Dodge Aspen radiator under the radiator shell, but the more

expensive Walker radiator will bolt right onto these mounts if you decide to use one now or

sometime in the future. I've used the little Dodge upright before on basically stock small blocks,and they've always run cool (except in parades). If you've got a radical engine you may want the

bigger Walker. The little Dodge unit can be picked up for about $50 used to $100 new,

compared to $300+ for a Walker. Don't worry about the space between the radiator and the

shell; I've got that covered in this chapter too.

First, we need to decide what kind of radiator shell we want. The normal choice is the T-

shell. Racing Unlimited sells this cheapest in fiberglass form. They are all basically the same,

regardless of the supplier. They all have to be cleaned and bondoed to look decent. Following is

a trick to making the shell fit real snug to a Walker radiator. First, cover the radiator with waxed

paper at the top, so the fiberglass won't stick to it. Try the shell to make sure it fits over thedummy filler neck. Cut two strips of sheet metal for tabs, about %/1 X 2/1. Mark the shell where

the Walker radiator upper tabs are. Don't drill the holes yet. Mark the tabs where they must sit

between the shell and the radiator tab.

Now you have to fiberglass the tabs to the inside of the shell and let them dry. When the

mat has set up hard, put the shell back on the radiator and drill the tab holes, using the ones in

the radiator tabs for a guide.

Next, mix up a gob of banda or Tiger Hair (chopped fiberglass in a can like banda) and set it

on the inside of the shell right below the filler neck hole. Leave it in a big ball just a little bigger

than a golf ball, and set the shell in place over the radiator.

- Clamp it down and let it set-

Now clamp it down. Be sure you have bolts in the tabs you made on the shell. This action

causes the banda to spread out to fit the radiator tank, and the wax paper keeps it from

sticking. When it's set, just remove the shell, peel off the wax paper and reinstall the shell.

I've bound another and cheaper

source for an attractive radiator

shell. So far it has been more

popular than the tried and true T-

shell, with everyone I've shown it to,

partly because it will house a larger

radiator.

with new reproductions. I bought a 1929 A shell thathad been brazed and bond oed and painted many times I

over. I took my $5 purchase home and chopped 5/1 out

of it, cut and spread the bottom to meet the sides and

filled the gap with sheet metal. A little banda and paintand the shortened A shell looks right at home on the T-

Bucket.

I've noticed at the flea markets

the abundance of banged-up Model

A shells that have been turning up

cheap. They have been replaced

- A 1929 Model A shell reworked, bondoed and painted. Not bad for a few

bucks, right? -

Since everyone seems to like it, I'll go into the details on making and mounting it. The

aftermarket T shell will mount directly to your radiator mounts. The Model A shell will be

trimmed to fit inside the frame rails and also set on top of them. Trim off the back part of the

shell that held the hood padding with your 4 W' Die grinder. Cut the shell in half so that the toppiece is 18/1 high.

Now cut the bottom right through the crank hole, and cut 5/1 off the sides of the bottom half.

Weld the ends to the bottom part of the shell. It will leave a gap in

the middle which can be filled with a piece of sheet metal cut to fit.

Weld

oCut alons this linea.nd dis«:ard th:is strip•

•o

••

• ~L"_ __ .J..I ~ Cut shell in half

Bolt the mounts to the

frame with the shell mount

sandwiched between the

angle iron mounts and the

frame, with the arrow

pointing forward. Now fold

the mounts down flat on

the frame. Next, set the

shell back in place and

mark on the inside where it

rests on the sheet metal.

Remove the shell and

clamp a piece of angle iron

on the line to act as a sheet metal brake to bend against. Bend each mount straight up. The

shell can now be

- Model A radiatorshell mount template -

The mounts for the A shell are made of body

sheet metal and are sandwiched between the

mount and the frame rail. Make two of these

out of sheet metal.

- Clamp them both between theradiator mounts and run the drill backthrough the holes -

,1%

FRONT ~------------ ___j, ---------------------------------------------

Model A radi'atorshell mount

,-@-

11---t--_ 3N' ----L'- .•IJI

-(f)-

lowered over them with

the sheet metal mounts

unseen on the inside.Drill two 1/8/1 holes on

each side and pop rivet

the shell and the mount

together. To remove the

shell, unbolt the radiator

mounts from the frame.

- Inside view of radiator shell mounting -

- As you can see there is plenty of room to add water to this Mopar radiator -

- Radiator Grille -

A very attractive grille-filler can be made from an inexpensive overhead light grating. They

can be bought for a few dollars from building supply stores and are made of white plastic.

Another nice filler can be made from the guard off of one of the box floor fans, if you have a

junk one.

The first step is to paint the

grating flat black.

- Grating painted in flat

black. Note the ladder used

to prop it up for spraying -

It will sandwich between thegrille shell and the not-so-

perfect-a-fit radiator. If you are

using a Walker radiator you don't

need to make this. The Walker is

a perfect fit for a T shell. If you

are using, say, a Dodge Aspen

radiator however, this grille will

conceal any gaps you may have as well as protect your radiator from rocks and debris.

The grille will be silicone-cemented to the radiator shell, so both must be painted first. I use an

old ladder for painting these. Be sure to paint the egg-crate grille from all four sides so youdon't have any patches of white showing. One light grating will make two grilles. It's nice to

have an extra in case you catch a rock.

- Lay the shell upside down on the grating and trace the outline of the opening

onto the grating-

Lay the radiator shell upside down on the grating (which is also upside down) and trace the

opening onto the grating. The plastic is quite brittle and easiest cut with side cutters, one piece

at a time, like cutting chicken wire. Cut an inch outside the tracing. Use a whole tube of clear

silicone in a caulking gun to cement the grille in place. Position the grille where you want it in

the upside down shell and press the silicone in, around, up and over wherever you can, without

any showing from the front. Let the shell set until the silicone is completely dry, preferably

overnight.

Even without the radiator you can see what the finished roadster will look like.

- Radiator Cap -

To make an authentic-looking radiator cap out of a junk antique mota-meter, cut a 3 )12"

section of a chrome 2/1 exhaust extension. Split the pipe down 1 %/1 on each side. Then cut a T

on each side and bend the tabs horizontal before flattening and drilling holes.

TRIHooo

Drill3/8"holes THIN

Now drill three holes (3/8/1) in these tabs for penetration of the fiberglass, and insert it in the

shell hole from the bottom. The installation of thin black welt (available from upholstery shops)

will add class. I install it at this time around the radiator cap hole in the painted shell and glue it

in place with weatherstrip adhesive. Now mix up a blob of Tiger hair, or similar mixture of

chopped strand fiberglass, about the size of a golf ball, and smear it over the ends of these tabs

and into the holes. Set the shell carefully by itself until the fiberglass sets up.

The inside of the shell can now be painted with black undercoating. A 'T' ornament slips

inside, and an 'A' ornament fits outside. I secure the cap with two pop rivets to prevent theft.

This is the most easily stolen item on a roadster, and the one stolen most often.

The antique car flea markets are always full of motor meters with broken or missing glass

and thermometers for reasonable prices. I've found that the little Ford adhesive disks replace

the glass on both sides perfectly. I think they are intended for mag wheel centers.

- Pipe trimmed and ready forinstallation -

- This pipe isn't going anywhere! -

- An 'A' style radiator cap - - A 'T' style radiator cap -

- Radiator-

Surprisingly enough, there are a considerable number of modern radiators that will fit underthe 'T' or 'A' shell. A good radiator can be bought from a junk yard for a good price if you know

what to look for. One nice thing about setting up your roadster to accept on of these radiators

is the low replacement cost of future repairs, and the fact that it will have a rock guard,

whereas the Walker would not.

The ideal radiator (Walker) can be bought for $300+. It is made to fit perfectly under a 'T'

shell, but that's a lot of green for a poor boy. I suggest you get it running and drive it for awhile

before you buy that ideal radiator. Then the additional money won't seem so much. You might

even want a brass unit.

When shopping for a radiator, take along a tape measure and your shell to make sure youget one that will fit. Two more important things to watch for are a built-in transmission cooler

in the bottom and the lower outlet on the right-hand side (This is for a Chevy engine). The top

outlet can be on either side because you want the chrome outlet for the engine that faces

straight forward.

Avoid foreign car radiators because they don't have the water capacity you need. AMC and

Jeep and several others make radiators that will fit under your shell, but the lower outlet is on

the wrong side.

I have listed the radiators and their dimensions that you can use in the order of their

preference and suitability. The most desirable units are listed first. Try to think of a junk car

some friend may have that fits the bill.

- Three different styles of radiators that can be used on a T-Bucket roadster-

I'd avoid the track nose in the center. I installed the heavy-duty radiator that was part of the

nose package, and had cooling problems. I installed the best electric fan obtainable and still had

cooling problems. A new water pump, and still had cooling problems. It was the customers'

option and he wanted it left on. Good riddance!

- RADIATORS -

Core measurements Top Hose Bottom Hose Trans Cooler

18 3/8" X 18 Yz" X 1 X" 1 Yz" - L 1}fi" - R 12"

74-75 Dodge Dart 318 V8

75-76 Plymouth Valiant, Duster, Scamp 318 V8

18 3/8" X 18 Yz" X 1 X" 1 Yz" - R 1 Yz" - R 12"80-82 Plymouth Fury 6

78-80 Plymouth Volare 6

80 -82 Chrysler Cordoba 6

79-82 Chrysler New Yorker, Newport 6

78-81 Chrysler LeBaron 6

78-82 Dodge Diplomat 6

80-82 Dodge Mirada 6

79-81 Dodge St Regis 6

78 -80 Dodge Aspen 6

77 Chrysler LeBaron 318 V8

18 3/8" X 18 Yz" X 1X"76 - 78 Dodge Aspen 318 V8

77 - 78 Dodge Diplomat 318 V8

76 - 78 Plymouth Volare 318 V8

69 - 71 Plymouth Fury 6

69 - 71 Dodge Monoco, Polara 6

1Yz" L 1 Yz" R 10"

17 7/8" X 18 Yz" X 1X" 1Yz" L

70 - 72 Dodge Monoco, Polara 318 V8

70 - 73 Plymouth Fury 318 V8

70 - 73 Dodge Charger, Coronet, Challenger 318 V8

70 - 73 Plymouth Barracuda 318 V8

71- 73 Plymouth Satellite, Sebring, Road Runner 318 V8

70 - 72 Plymouth Belvedere 318 V8

1}fi" R 10"

17 7/8" X 18 Yz"X 1 X" 1 Yz" R

70 - 72 Plymouth Barracuda 6

71- 72 Plymouth Satellite, Sebring, Roadrunner 6

66 - 70 Plymouth Belvedere, Satellite 6

66 -73 Dodge Charger, Coronet 6

1Yz" R 10"

Core measurements Top hose Bottom hose Trans cooler

17 3/8" X 18 Yz" X 1 W' 1 Yz" L 1 %" R 10"

1970 - 73 Plymouth Valiant, Duster, Scamp 318 V8

1970 - 73 Dodge Dart 318 V8

. 17 3/8" X 18 Yz" X 1 X" 1 Yz" R 1 Yz" R 6"

1968 - 73 Dodge Dart 6

1971- 73 Plymouth Duster, Valiant 6

1968 - 69 Barracuda 6

1967 - 68 Plymouth Valiant 6

16 3/8" X 17 X" Xl X" 1 X" L 1 X" R 6"

1975 - 77 Mercury Bobcat

163/8" X 17 X" Xl X" 1 X" L 1 %" R 6"

1965 Mercury Comet 289 V81965 - 66 Ford Mustang 289 V8

15 1/8" X 17 X" X 1 X" 1 X" L 1 X" R 8"

1971 - 73 Ford Pinto

The radiator we used in the project car is from a 1976 Dodge Aspen 318 V8 with a 10" cooler.It's a brand-new Modine unit (they still make them) that cost us only $90 delivered in 1986. I

was able to use this larger radiator because of the Model A style shell. If you are using the 'T'

style shell, you may have to use the Pinto or Bobcat radiator.

If you like the 'T' shell, there is another avenue open to house a larger, but still inexpensive

radiator. You can split the shell, and spread it to fit the radiator and then fill in the gap. I did

that to house the mammoth Ford flathead radiator you see occasionally in the photo

backgrounds.

But meanwhile, back at the

ranch .

- Layyour radiator shell ontop of the radiator with thetop corners just clearing -

- These top corners should just clear into the shell -

Make sure the radiator is setting square in the shell. I trust my eye more than a tape

measure for this job. The shell I used here is a fiberglass copy of the first one I made. It proved

to be so popular with my customers that I had to make a mold of the original so I could cast

duplicates for them.

- Trace the outline of the shell onto the sides of the radiator sheet metal -

These lines must be copied in %" from the drawn line to allow for the taper of the Model A

shell, but this is not necessary for the 'T' shell.

Cut out along this new line with a 4 ~" die grinder. Cut straight in at the top of the frame (bottom of the

radiator) to the very edge of the radiator side. This is necessary to allow the radiator to set down in the

frame. The radiator should fit squarely in the shell. Don't worry about the portion of the radiator that

hangs down under the shell. It's virtually invisible when installed.

- The outline traced onto the radiator sheet metal with welders chalk. Note the%" second line that will be the actual cutting line -

With pliers, bend the curve straight where the angle iron frame mounts will touch the

radiator sides.

- The trimmed radiator fits like this into the shell -

- With vise grips bendthe lower radiatorsheet metal straightwhere the angle ironframe mounts touchthe radiator sides-

Now cut two 10" pieces

of 1 X" angle iron. With the

radiator propped in the car,

place these uprights as

shown in the photo and

mark for the necessary

trimming.

Mark the mounts where these uprights

rest. Remove the left side and weld the

upright to the mount. Drill X" holes where

shown in the photo, they will coincide

with the raised portion of the radiator

sides.

Drill out the rearmost hole in the lowermount with a )12" bit to allow for radiator

angle adjustment. The radiator can now

be slid in from the right side with the left

mount bolted solid.

Now you can make the right side mount

just like you did the left mount. This

mount can be slid in and the rearward bolt

goes in easily. It takes a little patience to

get the front bolt in, but there is plenty of

clearance to do this.

Now run a 9j64" drill through the X" holes

into the sheet metal. Tighten the radiator down with sheet metal screws. The radiator is

effectively sandwiched between the shell and the upright and should be very solid. Now pull

the shell top into place and run a X" bit through the sides of the shell and upright and secure

with bolts.

- Mark the trimmed left sidemount where the uprightmust rest-

- The finished mount -

-Position the upright onthe mark on the mountand weld it. (This is theright side) -

Thanks for requesting this FREE Chapter from:

We’re happy you took this opportunity to see for yourself just how

comprehensive, informative and valuable Chester Greenhalgh’s

legendary eBook is.

No matter what kind of hot rod you’re building, buying or

planning to build, you’re certain to be inspired, save time and,

best of all, save lots of money following Chester’s many tried and

proven techniques.

We look forward to immediately fulfilling your eBook order after

you’ve reviewed this great free chapter.

Just click here to return to the order page at TBucketPlans.com,

and click the Download Now button at the bottom of the page to

purchase your copy for only $18.95. Don’t forget to check out

Chester’s two other eBooks, because you’ll get nice discounts

when you purchase two or more at one time.

Within minutes, you’ll be enjoying 258 pages of

the best, most entertaining and helpful hot rod

building information available.

Thanks again!

Other eBooks by Chester Greenhalgh

To get further inspired by Chester’s mechanical creativity on a budget, you will absolutely love his two

other hot rod how-to eBooks. Plus, get nice discounts when you buy two or more at one time.

Chester Greenhalgh's newest rod building eBook is a full 107 informative pages of color photos and detailed info showing exactly "how to" build today's most economic fun ride -- a classic hot rod/rat rod truck on a budget! Click to check it out at: www.HotRodTruckPlans.com

Chester Greenhalgh's third eBook will make you an overnight small engine expert and show you how to apply "hot rod" creativity to cool new lawn mower engine projects for not only your lawn mower but also for boating, air compressors, minibikes and choppers and more. Chester tells you all about the small Briggs & Stratton engines you can get running off the junk pile. Click to check it out at: www.PimpMyBriggs.com

54

This new digital edition of the California Custom Roadsters T-Bucket Chassis Plans features a new 6th Plan Set showing how to build a rear coil-over shock suspension and also includes the CCR part numbers for most brackets and parts welded to the frame and axles. Now, choose to either fabricate the part or have CCR provide it.

62 pages of great T-Bucket info!

Click to check it out at: www.TBucketPlans.com

Old time hot rodders fondly remember the pioneering Bird T-Bucket kits of the 1960s and now we've reproduced the original Bird T-Bucket Plans, along with a Bird Engineering history, copies of those cool old Bird ads and some Bird T-Bucket photos: all in a nostalgic 49-page eBook.

You'll love it!

Click to check it out at: www.TBucketPlans.com

55

The “must have” 4-hour DVD package for beginners and experienced builders alike that covers every detail for constructing your own hot rod chassis that will be economic, rugged, reliable and safe. Get years of Bob Hamilton’s experience in an afternoon of enjoyable viewing. Click to check it out at www.StreetRodPlans.com

With Bonus: Fiberglass Top Modifications This great 4-hour DVD set takes the mystery out of fiberglass work. Bob Hamilton shows you how easy it is for you to work with fiberglass. Learn how to lengthen a body, fill holes, make a mould, build a ‘glass dash – you name it you can do it. Click to check it out at www.StreetRodPlans.com

With Bonus: Metal Pickup Bed Construction Bob Hamilton shows you how to get professional looking results at home and save tons of $$$ too with this cool 4 hour DVD package that also shows you how to prep your chassis for show car looks. Click to check it out at www.StreetRodPlans.com