for the Connoisseur Lifestyle - elitewinefoodtravel.com · the bars give free food when you order a drink ... (“calamares”) Slow-cooked ... study showed that cans have half the

Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • �

In this issue:• Discovering Israeli Wines• Touring Niagara Wine Country• The Ocean Wise Cookbook• Spain and Tapas• Tasting Tennessee• Louisiana’s Outback: Art & Soul Food in Lake Charles ...and much more

for the Connoisseur Lifestyle

� • Issue 2 • Elite 2010

Proudly Canadian

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

w i n e4 Fermentations:WineinCans

6 WineLine

23 DiscoveringIsraeliWines

35 WineBuys

47 Wining&Dining

56 TouringNiagaraWineCountry

f o o d & r e c i p e s5 SeasonalandSimpleFetaRecipefromKlondikeCheese

34 PanSearedRockfish-SustainableFood

46 SouthwesternLouisianaRecipes

50 TheOceanWiseCookbook

59 RecipeforWAVYTVQuickChickenDinner

t r a v e l2 SpainandTapas

10 TastingTennessee

30 Israel’sSights

38 Louisiana’sOutback:Art&SoulFoodinLakeCharles

www.elitewinefoodtravel.com

Published by: EnotecaPublishingInc.

Publisher: W.C.Cavaliere

Editor: AnnaM.Cavaliere

Contributing Writers:AnnaM.Cavaliere CraigGambarotto-McKayBarbaraD.Ritchie W.C.EnotecaMargotRitchie EdwardFinsteinKaitNienhuis

Graphic Design:JanetBeauchamp,Arteffects

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Article and photos by Craig and JoAnne Gambarotto-McKay

Amanandwomanwalkintoabaronawarm,sunnyterraceoverlookingthesea.Themanordersabeer;thewomanordersaginandtonic.

Thebartenderbringsafrostymugofbeerandatallglasswith icecubesandasliceof lemon in it. Heselectsabottleofginandbeginspouring it intotheglass.Theginriseshigherandhigher intheglass.Finallythewomanasksthebartendertostoppouringsothattherewillbesomeroomleftintheglassforabitoftonicwater.

A few minutes later the bartender brings two smallplates to the couple. One plate contains a dozenfreshlycookedshrimpwithsomedippingsauce.Thesecondplatehasslicesofcheeseandham.

Astheyenjoytheshrimp,ham,andcheese,themanfinishes his beer and orders a glass of brandy.

The bartender brings a balloon glass and beginspouring brandy into it. After a reasonable amountof brandy has gone into the glass the bartendercontinuespouring.Atsomepointthemanasksthebartendertostoppouring.

Afewminuteslaterthebartendercomesbackwithaplateuponwhichispiledanassortmentofolives.

Whentheyask topay for the threedrinksand foodthecoupleisgivenabillof6Euros($8.10CDN).

Oh,didImention?Taxandtipareincludedinthattotal.

Wherearethey?TheyareinSpain,ofcourse.ThatisonereasonwegotoSpaineveryyear.

Actually, those are five reasons we go to Spain: It is warm,thereisabeautifulsea,drinksarefree-poured,thebarsgivefreefoodwhenyouorderadrink,andthepricesareveryreasonable.

TherearesomeotherreasonstogotoSpain.

The fruit and vegetables are sweet and fresh. Webuy a bag of six, fresh from the tree, ready to eatavocados for$2:00CDN. Someof thebestolives,fromhundredyearoldtreesaregrownthereandtheoliveoilissogoodthatItalybuysit.

Sparkling wine made by the same method asChampagne,andveryhighqualitycanbepurchasedforaslittleas$2.50perbottle.Wehaveitregularlywithlunch.

Fishisavailablethesamedayitiscaught.Youcanbuyitatthemarketeachmorningororderitforlunchintherestaurants.Alocaltoldmeoneshouldneverorder fish for supper because it is not fresh enough!

Spain &Tapas


Ifyougotoarestaurantonadayonwhichtherehasbeen a storm overnight you will often be told: “I’msorry. We don’t have any fish because there was a stormandtheboatcouldn’tgoout.”Mostoftenthewaiter will bring the fresh fish to you on ice so that you mayinspectitbeforetheyprepareitforyou.

The beachfront restaurants offer fixed price menus for lunch. Thenormalprice is9or10Euros ($14-$15CDN).Forthatprice,whichincludestaxandtip,youareofferedathreecoursemealwithchoiceofentree,main dish of fish or meat, and dessert and a bottle of winefortwoisincluded.

The word “tapas” is derived from the Spanish verbtapar, “to cover”. The most commonly held beliefabout the origin of tapas is that the original tapasweretheslicesofbreadormeatwhichsherrydrinkersin Andalusian taverns used to cover their glassesbetweensips.Thiswasapracticalmeasuremeanttoprevent fruit flies from hovering over the sweet sherry. Themeatusedtocoverthesherrywasnormallyhamorchorizo,whicharebothverysaltyandactivatethirst.BecauseinSpain,dinnerisusuallyservedbetween9p.m.and11p.m.(sometimesaslateas12midnight),Spaniardsoftenwillhaveadrinkandeattapasinthetime between finishing work and having dinner. Since lunchisusuallyservedbetween1and3p.m.,anothercommontimefortapasisaroundnoonasameansofsocializingbeforehavinglunch.

Often,youareservedwhateverthetapaofthedayis.However,itisalsoquitecommonforabarorrestaurantto have 8 to 12 different kinds of tapas on displayfromwhichyoumaychooseyourownselection.Bothwarmandcoldtapasareavailable.Itisraretoseea tapas selection not include one or more types ofolives and you are almost always served a slice ofbreadwithany tapa,butespecially thosewhicharesauce-based.

WherewewinterinAndalucia,we’vebeenfortunatetohavepartakenofmanyofthemostcommonSpanishtapas:Olives(“Aceitunas”)ofmanyvarietiesMeatballs(“albóndigas”),servedinatomatosauceAnchovies (“boquerones”), usually deep fried butsometimesservedinvinegarRingsofbatteredsquid.(“calamares”)Slow-cooked,tenderbeef.Batteredandfriedtinysquid(“puntillitas”)ChorizosausageCroquettes“Ensaladillarusa”-madewithmixedboiledvegetableswithtuna,olivesandmayonnaise.

Prawns, (“gambas”) sauteed in salsa negra(peppercorn sauce), al ajillo (with garlic), or pil-pil(withchoppedchilipeppers).

Octopus(“pulpo”)

Cheese

Porkchunksseasonedwithgarlicandparsley.

Tortillaespañola–a typeofomeletcontaining friedchunksofpotatoesandsometimesonion.

N.B.Latelywehaveseen“tapas’barsspringup inNorthAmerica. Inmost instances theyarenot truetapassincecustomersare required topay foreachofthetapas.Tapasarecustomarilygivenfreewithabeverage.ThesmallservingsoffoodwhichcanbepurchasedinSpainarecalledrationes(portions).

One of our favourite tapas bars in our town ofAlmunecariscalled“LaChina”,situatedrightonthebeach.There,youareservedsubstantialsizedtapaswitheverydrink,sometimestwotapasforonedrink.Oftentheystartwithhalfanavocadostuffedwithtunaaccompaniedbyasmallsalad,goontobreadedfriedaubergines, anchovies, meatballs, and finally finish withapieceofcaketogowithyourcaféconleche.

We’venot seenadessert tapaanywhereexceptatthisrestaurant.Forthepriceofacoupleofdrinks,thisentireservicecomprisesameal.Andthedrinksdon’thavetobealcoholic–evenbottledwaterwillelicitatapa.

Unfortunately,we’vealso recentlyseenadecline inthequalityoftapasatsomebars,whereoneisservedonly a small dish of mixed nuts or potato chips.Tous this represents a deterioration in the tradition ofproviding sufficient food to tide one over until lunch or dinnerandisanunfortunateacknowledgementoftheNorthAmericansnackinghabit.

TapasareoneofthereasonsweenjoySpaininthewinter. The weather, scenery and history are otherreasons. There is history and architecture whichreachesbackthousandsofyears.ThePhoenicians,theRomans,theGothsandVisigoths,theMoorsandthe northern Europeans were all there in their turn.Physicalstructuresremainwhichtelloftheiractivitiesand the way they helped to form what is modernSpain.

Article and photos by Craig and JoAnne Gambarotto-McKay

Spain &Tapas

Craig and JoAnne Gambarotto-McKay spend part of each yearin Spain. There and abroad they search for and enjoy fine wines and cuisine. Craig

has published also under the pen name E. Craig McKay and James W. Marsh. www.ecraigmckay.com


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FErMENTATiONS:

Article by Edward Finstein

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EdwardFinstein,TheWineDoctor,istheaward-winningauthorof"AsktheWineDoctor"(McClelland&Stewart),TV/Radio host, renown wine journalist, internationalwine judge, Professor of Wine, appraiser, lecturer,tourguideandconsultant.ListentoDoc’sweeklywinefeatureson97.3EZRockradio(FM)orthepodcastsatezrock.com.Hiswebsiteis:www.winedoctor.ca

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Wine in cans, eh?

Although connoisseurs might balk at the concept,sipping out of a can with a ring-pull could becommonplacedowntheroad.Salesofaluminumcanstothewineindustry,althoughstillrelatively low,areontherise,accordingtoRexam,oneoftheworld’slargestcanmakers.There isgrowingdemand fromwinemakersandretailersforalternativepackaging.Over the last fouryears, sales to thewine industryhave increased dramatically. There are severalreasonswhy.

Environmental issues are high on the list.A recentstudy showed that cans have half the transport-relatedCO2emissionsofglasspackaging.

Aluminum cans are completely recycled into newonesandbackontheshelfwithin60days.

Next would be cost. They are cheaper than glassbottlestoproduce,lighterthanglassanddonotbreakifdropped.Because theyaremorecompact, largervolumes can fill containers and trucks. Because they arelighter,theyweighless.Bothofthesefactorsadduptolowertransportationandshippingcosts.

There is also evidence to suggest that consumers’changing drinking habits could drive this increase.Certainlytheconsumertodayismoreenvironmentallyawareandlookingforwaystohelpout,sowineincanscould be a step in that direction. Many consumerssee the attraction of drinking smaller amounts oroneglassata time.“Single-serve” iswhata lotofpeople want and it’s something that hasn’t reallyworked in the wine industry so far.The can wouldfill this bill nicely. Mobility may be playing a big part.

Manyconsumerswantwinetheycansiponthe“go”.Youngerconsumers,inparticular,wantproductsthattheycantaketopicnicsandevents,whereglassisoftenbanned.

Finally,canschillfasterthanglassbottles,especiallygood for white, sparkling, rosé and some sweetwines.

Allofthesefactorspresentaprettygoodargumentforwineincans.

However,whataboutthetaste?Willaluminumaffectthetasteofwine?

Beer in cans or draft housed in metal kegs don’thaveametallictasteastheinsidesofmostcansandlidsusedforbeerhaveasprayedcoating,ensuringthat there is absolutely no contact between beerand aluminum. Comparative blind tastings of beerin bottles and cans exhibit no real difference, soeventhoughwinecontainsmorealcoholthanbeer,itprobablyworksthesameway.Australiahasbeenutilizingthemforawhile.HavingtriedsomeinOzanumberofyearsback,tomyrecollection,Ifoundnounusual taste. Mind you, it was a very commercialoffering, but seeing as many craft-breweries utilizecans for their upscale brews without problems, Iwouldsuspectbetterqualitywineincanswouldshowequallywell.

Evenifwineincansdoesn’taffectthetaste,thereistheperceptionissue.It tookconsumersalongtimeto embrace the idea of plastic corks, screw capsandplasticbottlesforwineand,tothisday,stillonlyassociate them with inferior product. Wine in cansmighthavethesamestigma.

I think it’ssafe tosay thatcanswillprobablynevertotally replace bottles for wine, but there are manyoccasionswhenabottle isnotappropriate.Seeingasthereisagrowingdemandfromwinemakersandretailers alike for alternative packaging, and fromconsumers’

changingdrinkinghabits,itwouldappeartoserveapurpose.Whileitmaytakesomegettingusedto,wineincansmayjustbeanotherevolutionarychangethatonedaywillbecommonplace.Onlytimewilltell.

Wine iN CANS


FeSTIve FeTA SALAD WITh BLOOD OrANgeS From:Chef/ownerPeterSandroniofLaMerendaRestaurant,Milwaukee,WI.Yield: 2 servings

Salad:

2bloodoranges,peeled,segmented,juicesaved

1/2cupsmallredonion,cutinhalf,thinlysliced

1/2cupkalamataolives,pitted

2ouncesarugula

1 teaspoon mint, finely chopped

4 tablespoons Klondike Cheese’s Odyssey brandFeta,plain

saltandpeppertotaste

Dressing:

3tablespoonsfreshbloodorangejuice

1tablespoongratedorangezest

1tablespoonredwinevinegar

1tablespoongarlic,minced

1/4cupextravirginoliveoil

Peelorangeandremovewhitepithpartsfromorange.Place oranges over small bowl and separate intosegments,reservingjuicewhilesegmentingorange.In a medium serving bowl, add oranges, onions,olives,arugula,mint,Fetacheese,saltandpepper.Mixlightly.Inaseparatesmallbowl,addtheremainingdressingingredients,whisktogetheruntilfrothy.Adddressingtosalad,tosslightly.Serveimmediately.

Monroe, Wisconsin - Klondike CheeseCompany’s Odyssey brand Feta is a life-simplifyingingredientforholidayentertaining

and quick healthful meals during the year’s busiestseason.ThisGreek-stylecheeseisavailableinplainor flavored varieties. Odyssey brand Feta, a classic made by Klondike for more than 20 years, doesmostof theworkwhileyou takeall thecredit.ThirdGenerationbrothersRon,SteveandDaveBuholzerareallMasterCheesemakers.Undertheirdirection,Klondikeproducesconsistent,affordablecow’smilkFeta with artisan flavor that enhances everything from omeletstoglobalappetizersandentrees.

Feta is ideal for creating quick, easy specialties onyourseasonalmenu.FestiveFetaSaladwithBloodOranges, forexample,bringsabrightburstofcolorand flavor to your table. The simple recipe, provided herein, comes from chef Peter Sandroni of LeMerendaRestaurant inMilwaukee,WI—Klondike’shome state—and demonstrates how you can getFeta-festivewithholidaymeals.

With Klondike’s Odyssey brand Feta Cheese, youknowyou’reprovidingablendoftasteandtradition.Nowyoualsocancatertoguestswhowanttosplurgeon flavor and feel even better about it: Offer them appetizers made with Fat-Free Traditional Feta,TomatoandBasil,MediterraneanHerb,Peppercorn,andGarlicandHerb.

ThehistoricKlondikeCheeseFactorywasoriginallystarted by a farmers’ cooperative more than three-quarters of a century ago. Under the operation ofthe Buholzer family, Feta remains the company’ssignature cheese. For more information fromKlondike, call 608-325-3021 or visit the website atwww.klondikecheese.com.

f o o d

Seasonal and Simple Feta Recipe from Klondike Cheese

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WineLineArticle and photos by Barbara D. Ritchie

Paul Hobbs – Global Reputation for Superior Winemaking

Born in1953 toa familyof11children,PaulHobbs’passion for wine began as a young boy when hisfather uncorked a bottle of 1962 Chateau d’Yquem,the best Sauternes in the world. He gained handson experience with grape growing when his fatherreplanted a section of the family’s New York appleorchardstograpesin1969.Whilestudyingmedicine,his biology professor and former winemaker atChristian Brothers Winery invited him to take hiswine tasting seminars, inspiring Hobbs to switch toanenologydegreeatCalifornia’sUniversityofDavis.

Paul’swinemakingcareerbeganatNapa’sMondaviWinery, where he became Head Oenologist,responsiblefortheOpusOnewine.Subsequently,hemovedtoSimiWineryinCalifornia’sSonomaregioninthe1980swherehisinterestinemergingwineregionsconnectedhimwithNicolasCatena,oneofArgentina’sleading winemakers in the Mendoza Valley. CatenapersuadedHobbs to takeonanewproject tomakewhat became Argentina’s first world class Chardonnay in1989.

Hobbs also began to consult for other premiumCalifornia wineries, and in 1991, he launched thePaulHobbsWineryinSonomatomakehand-crafted,boutiquewines. In1998hebought19acres in theRussianRiverValley,namingthepinotnoirsectiontheLindsayVineyardafterhisgrandmother.HiswineryisnearSebastopol,whichhasredclaysoilthatisrichiniron.In1999Hobbsrecruitedhusbandandwifeteam,

winemaker LuisBaraud andv i t i c u l t u r a l i s tAndreaMarchioriat his Californiaoperation to behis partners inhis new VinaCobos wineryin Argentina’sM e n d o z aValley. Theirshared dreamwas to makepowerful andelegantMalbecs,unrivalled in the

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Paul Hobbs Cellar TastingPhoto by Barbara Ritchie

Paul HobbsPhoto provided by Paul Hobbs


world.AndreaisthedaughteroftheoriginalowneroftheMarchiorivineyard,whereVinaCobossourcesgrapes from 60-80 year old vines. The propertyliesonawelldrained,ancientseabedatoneof thehighestelevationsintheMendozaregion,forcingthevinestostrugglefornutrientsandtherebyenhancingthequality

of wine. The evolution of the wines over the pastdecade is not just about vintage variation, butreflects Hobbs’ efforts to learn how to control and influence the myriad of variables involved in producing wine from the Malbec grape. Thisincluded establishing a new trellising system in2002, and a state-of-the-art winery built in 2006.

Paul Hobbs was in Toronto this June to conduct avertical tastingofhisSonomaandMendozawines.Thiswasco-stagedbyhisagent,AuthenticWine&SpiritsMerchantsatToronto’sBarberianSteakhouse.AlloftheVinaCoboswineswesampledwere100%varietal Malbec wines, unfined and unfiltered. They rangeinpricefrom$140to$170.HealsomakesasuperbMalbec/CabernetSauvignonwineunder theBramareMarchioriVineyardlabel.

HisArgentinetastingbeganwithVina Cobos Malbec 1999 (13.9%) the winery’s inaugural wine, whichreceivedthehighestratingofanyArgentinewinethatyear. Handharvested,de-stemmedinanopentopfermenterandagedfor18monthsinFrenchoak,thisstilldeeplycolouredwinehasraisinandherbalnotesunderpinning cherry, pomegranate, red berry andcedar flavours. Vina Cobos Malbec 2002 (14%)camefromoneofthebestharvestsinMendozain15years.Aged for21months inprimarilyFrenchoak,this deep inky wine shows tight tannins, with darkberriesandcurrants,plumsandlicoricenotes. Vina Cobos Malbec 2003 (14.5%),fromacoolervintage,was aged 18 months in French oak. Opaque andmore complex than the 2002 vintage, it offers redberry flavours and layers of coffee and cedar, with silky tannins in the finish. Vina Cobos Malbec 2004 (15.4%) is an extremely powerful wine. Rich andcomplex,ithasadensecoreofjam,mocha,cedar,

cloves and allspice, with barnyard aromas and along, intense finish.

Vina Cobos Malbec 2005(14.5%)isanevenmorecomplexandsophisticatedwine,fromaparticularlyexceptionalvintage,withcooleveningsthatmoderatethe daytime heat, and minimal rain during the fall.Showing an elegant, somewhat restrained nose ofred berries and dark cherries, on the palate thesefruits come to the fore with appealing mocha andcocoa flavours that add to its charming character. With Vina Cobos Malbec 2006 (15.4%), Hobbshad better control of the vinification because it took placeintheirnewlylaunchedwinery.Thismassivewine has an intense structure, firm tannins and a dense, focused character underpinning a palate ofwild blueberries and red currants complementedwithhintsofpepperandcedar.Vina Cobos Malbec 2007 (15.4%)isfromacoolervintagewhich,despiteits high alcohol, delivered more floral, delicate scents withpronouncedplumcompoteandadashofblackpepper in the finish.

TheCaliforniaportionofhistastingbeganwith Paul Hobbs Lindsay Estate Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007(14.7%).Agedfor16monthsinFrenchoak, this ruby redwineshows redcherry,cola and forest berry flavours, with accents of white pepperandlayersofmochaandcedar.Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr Crane St. Helena Napa Valley(15.1%)isfromaslightlycoolervintage.Agedfor20monthsinFrenchoak,thisintensewinedeliversafullpalateofconcentratedredandblackcurrants, mocha, dried herbs and tar with deliciousvanillanuances.Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Oakville Napa(15.3%)isfromavineyardatthesouthendofNapa,nearYountville,where thecoolingCarnerosbreezestempertheheatoftheday.Winesfromthisvineyardtendtobemoreaustere,duetothegraphite,gravellysoils.Thisinkywinehasblackcurrant,cassis,espressoandchocolatenotesframedinaharmoniousstructure.

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Ste. Michelle Wine Estates – A Influential Wine Conglomerate Based in WashingtonSte. Michelle Wine Estates is one of the most influential conglomerates on the US wine scene. It considersitsfamilyofwineriestobea‘stringofpearls’,viewingitself as the ‘string’ that provides the administrativeand financial support for the ‘pearls’ of premium estate winesithasacquiredthroughoutWashington,OregonandNapa.

Itshistorydatesback to1934,when itoriginatedasthe Pommerelle Wine Company in Seattle. It wenton to become the pioneer of the Washington wineindustry,creatingtheChateauSte.Michellewineryin1967tofollowthetrendtowardsEuropeanvarietals.They enlisted famed winemakerAndre TchelistcheffofNapaValley’sBeaulieuVineyards tooversee thiseffort, enabling the winery to survive Prohibition. Itis now the largest winery in Washington. In 1974,thecompanywasboughtby tobaccoproducer,USTInc. which provided the financial support to establish another Washington winery, Chateau Ste. Michelle.In1985they launchedtheColumbiaCrestwinery inWashington and the following year purchased two

Napa Valley properties -- Villa Mt. Eden and ConnCreek.RenamedStimsonLaneVineyardsandEstatethatsameyear,thecompanyjoinedforceswithItalianwinemakerPieroAntinori in the late1990s tocreateapremiuminternationalstyledwinefromWashingtonundertheColSolarelabel.In2004theconglomeratechanged its name again to Ste. Michelle WineEstates.

Its family of wineries now includes 11 in the Pacific Northwest (Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia-Crest,Col Solare, Domaine Ste Michelle, Erath [boughtin 2006], 14 Hands, Northstar, Red Diamond,Snoqualmie,SpringValleyVineyard,StimsonEstateCellars) and four in California (Conn Creek [2006],HawkCrest,Stag’sLeapWineCellars[2007]andVillaMt.Eden[2006]).Theyhavealsopartneredwith11other wineries, acting as agents for these wines aspartoftheirlargerconglomerate.

Their Ontario agent, Profile Wine Group staged a tastingofaselectionoftheirwinesthisspring.Thisisasamplingofsomeofthemanyhighlights.Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2008(13.5%;V232439;$17.95)isafoodfriendlywinewithasoft,richtexturederivedfromaging`surlie’.Citrus

Alexandria Lafontaine – Market Director North America Château Ste. Michelle Wine Estates

Filet mignonPhoto by Barbara Ritchie

Photo by Barbara Ritchie


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and pear flavours, with hints of cedar and vanilla show beautifullyinthismoderatelengthwine.Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Chardonnay 2008 (13.5%;consignment; $26.95) is a rich, mouth filling wine that washandstirredandagedinAmericanandHungarianbarriques, showing full lemonandpeararomasandflavours with traces of ginger, honey, caramel and banana.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Syrah 2006 (14.7%;privateimport[P.I.];$40.95)with2%Mourvedreintheblend, aged for 20 months inAmerican and Frenchoak. Rich, dense and muscular, this inky wine hasround, opulent flavours of ripe cherries, plums and pomegranate.Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Merlot 2006(14.5%;P.I;$49.95)has2.5%Malbecand2.5%CabernetSauvignonintheblendandwasagedfor20monthsinoak.Plumpurple,thepalateisdominatedbyredberriesanddarkplumfruitswithcedarnotesinaframeofsofttannins.Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Cabernet Sauvignon 2007(14.2%;P.I;$43.95)hasincreasedstructurefromtheadditionof3%Malbecand1%PetiteVerdot.Ripeandjuicy,thisexpressivewinehas prominent cassis flavours, with underpinnings of cedarandnuancesofeucalyptus.

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay 2008 (13.5%; P.I.; $18.95) underwent battonage, (stirringof the lees),givingthewinearichcreamyaspect. Itdisplays ripe pear scents and flavours touched with ginger, spice and vanilla notes in the lingering finish. Erath Pinot Noir Oregon 2008 (13.8%;consignment;$28.95)ispalestrawberrypinkincolourwithanacidicbackbone. Sweet cherries, leather and streaks ofearthcomethrough in thiseasydrinkingwine. VillaMt.EdenRussianRiverPinotNoir2007(13.5%;P.I.;$39.95)hasmediumextractedcolour,withstrawberryand cherry flavours enhanced by wafts of coffee and mocha.

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars won acclaim by placingfirst among ten French and California wines at the famedJudgementofParisin1973.WarrenWiniarskistarted the winery just one year earlier and sold toChateauSte.Michellein2007,after35years.Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc

(13.5%;consignment;$26.95)hasasmallamountofSemillonaddedtotheblendtoroundoutthepalate.Pale lemon, it has subtle citrus flavours with herbal andnutty traces. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Karia(Kar-ee-ah, meaning graceful) Chardonnay 2007 (13.5%; consignment; $32.95) has a lovely floral nose of orange blossoms, with apple and peach flavours and subtle oak undertones. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Fay Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (14.5%;P.I.;$125.00) was made from grapes grown on the Fayvineyard,atopqualitysourceofCabernetSauvignonfromalluvialsoils,whichWiniarskipurchasedin1976.This powerful, inky wine shows dense flavours of sweetcassistouchedwithanise,nutmegandspice.

Smoked salmonPhoto by Barbara Ritchie

Barbara ritchie is a wine writer and lecturer. Having travelled extensively throughout the main wine-growing regions of the world with her twin sister Ann, she regularly conducts wine seminars for major corporations and restaurant groups, while also participating in various wine judging panels worldwide,

including intervin. Her judging experience includes a session at italy’s prestigious “Banco d’Assaggio”, held each year at Lungarotti’s Le Tre Vaselle in Umbria, to assess wines from throughout italy.

Article and photos by Anna Cavaliere

ThetastingtrailfromMemphistoTennesseeisa‘calltoarms’ofyourtastebuds.Preparetobewowedbythevarietyandqualityofwhatthismusicalstatehaslaidoutforadventurousfoodiesandintrepidtravelers.

THE MEMPHIS FOOD TRAILWherecornbreadandribstakecentrestageinthecity’scuisinescene.

GriLL 83, MADiSON HOTEL ExecutiveChefChrisWindsorinsistsonusingthebestandlocallygrownin-seasoningredients,stickingtoandrelyingonclassicsthatarebothsimpleyetattractivelypresented.

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Tasting TennesseeAriverviewofMemphisfromrooftopofMadisonHotel.

ChrisWindsor,ExecutiveChef,MadisonHotel

Offering its guests an eclectic repertoire, fromSouthern-style cuisine used for catering andbuffets for all occasions, the hotel can alsoinclude special ‘family recipes’ upon request.Withlimitedseatinginawelcomingsetting,therestaurant is known for its steaks, lamb, duckand fish dishes. For pre or after dinner drinks, theadjacentbarofferspatronsmartinisorwinesfromitsamplelist.Ourdinnerbeganwithlambchops and fig compote, Thai based lobster, andmangosalad.Therefollowedthesignaturedish of corn bread pudding, honey glazedshrimp along with Lobster and saffron couscous. The 16 oz. Kansas City bone in fillet was cooked to perfection, and we topped off ourmealwithatrioofginger:molasses,gelato,ale.TopmarkstoChefChrisforatrulysuperbfeast.www.grill83.com

ArCADELocatedinthetrianglewhichoncewashometothreetrainstations,therestaurantwasopenedin1919as theParisCafébyGreek immigrantSperos Zepatos. One of 165 downtownrestaurantsinMemphis,theArcadeisthecity’soldestrestaurantandisrunbythird-generationownersHarryandKaranZepatos.Amajorityofclientsare fromlocalbusinesses,with therestcomingfromthetourismsector.Openfrom7:00a.m.to3:00p.m.sevendaysaweek,youcanidentify home cooked daily specials that arehighlightedonthemenu.Knownfortheirsweetpotatopancake,breakfastisservedalldayandlunchspecialsincludesuchitemsasthemeatloafandchickenspaghettidish.Elviswasaregularhere, and you can find a plaque over the booth wherehesat.Moviebuffswillbeintriguedwiththe act that famous films such as “Mystery Train”, “TheFirm”,“Elizabethtown”,and“NothingbuttheTruth” were filmed at the café. Experience the Arcade for yourself! www.arcaderestaurant.com

Tasting TennesseeAriverviewofMemphisfromrooftopofMadisonHotel.

Memphis – Home of the Blues, Birthplace of rock & roll

ChrisWindsor,ExecutiveChef,MadisonHotel

Lobster withsaffron cous cous

Harry Zepatos

Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • ��

MAJESTiC GriLLEOriginally built in 1913, the building housed TheMajestic No. 1 Theatre, a men’s clothing store, anoffice for law firms until it was turned into a restaurant inthelate‘90s.Thecurrentownersprettywellguttedthebuilding,butmadeaconsciousdecisiontorestoreand/or keep its most important features. Open forapproximately three years, for the past two yearsMajesticGrillehasbeenvotedBestRestaurant&BestOverallDowntownRestaurant.Uponentering,oneisstruckbythehighceilings,corniceandotheroriginalembellishments as well as the large screen whichplays silent films. The restaurant seats 220, while the second floor accommodates 100-125 for cocktail parties.TheInnovatorsRoom,usedforprivatediningorartexhibits,lendsitselftotheowners’goaltocreatea community gatheringarea for theArts.Thus it isthatartandotherexhibitsenhanceyourenjoymentofthediverseandexceptionalmenuandwinelistthatincludes many wines from family-owned wineries.Popularwithitspatronsisthesignature“Strawberrybasilmartini”,as is their3-courseChefTable.Did Imentionthattheirgourmetpizzasandsalmonaretodiefor?Entertainmentsuchasjazzandotherpopularmusicroundsoutyourdiningexperience. Call901289-3870(Deni)orgotowww.majesticgrille.comforinformation.

BEAUTY SHOPDon’tbefooledbythename–itreallyisarestaurant.Youcan’tgetyournailsorhairdonehere,butyoucan see the individual booth once occupied byPriscillaPresleywhenshecametogetherbeehivestylehairdo.Ownedby theAtkins family, thedécorincorporatestheoriginalindividualbooths,sinksanddriers.Openedin2002intheCooperYoungdistrict,themenuiseclecticAmericanawithatouchofAsianthat appeals to the area’s hip first-time home buyers. Offerings include such entrees as whole striped

Deni and Patrick reilly, Owners, Majestic Grille

The Majestic Grille viewed from second floor

Diners at Beauty Shop Hearty Lunch at the Beauty Shop

�� • Issue 2 • Elite 2010

bass, or the best bacon/lettuce/tomato/avocadosandwich to be found. The restaurant is open forlunch Monday to Saturday, brunch on Sunday, and6 nights for dinner. Owner Karen Carrier has aSushi restaurant next door and the ever-popular“Automatic Slims” in both Memphis and N.Y.C.www.thebeautyshoprestaurant.com

COZY COrNEr

Desiree Robinson and her husband Ray were foodenthusiasts who, when they lived in Denver, oftenbarbecued for themselves and friends. When theymovedbacktoMemphis32yearsagotheyopenedupthe“CozyCorner”.Sincethen,thisfamily-runbusinesshasbeenservingseriouslygoodandjuicybarbecuedCornishhensandribs,bolognaandslicedbeefwhichareaccompaniedbytheirfamouscoleslawandbakedbeans. Along with her children and grandchildren,the tradition is carried on by Desiree much to thedelightoftherestaurant’sloyalcustomerswhocomefrom all over the globe to enjoy these specialtiescookedintheoriginal‘pit’.Open10:30a.m.to5:00p.m. Tuesday to Saturday, there is a constant flow ofcustomersandyoumayhave towait fora table.But this must see, must taste locale is worth it! www.cozycornerbbq.com.

GUS’S WOrLD FAMOUS HOT AND SPiCY FriED CHiCKEN

InthetownofMason,Tennessee–population500–amannamedNapoleonVanderbiltbeganexperimentingwithfriedchickenrecipes.Onceitwasperfected,therecipewaspassedontohissonVernon“Gus”Bonner.TheoriginalGus’sinMasonnolongerexists,butthefranchiseat310S.FrontStreetinMemphisisalltheragewithlocalsandvisitorsalike.Themotto““provideasimplemenu–make itoneway,make itgood” isaccomplishedbythesecretbatterthat ispurchasedandbroughtinfromMason.Thehotsauceisacreepingslowburnthat,whenmixedwiththejuicinessofthemeat,tendstocalmthepalate.Chickenistrimmedof fat and skin and washed thoroughly, with everypiecepreparedbyhandandmadetoorderattractingpeople fromaround theglobe.With200,000 lbs.ofmeat soldoutof the restaurant yearly,myguess ise

Juicy ribs

A family business: Desiree, Lailah, Val

The original Pit


thattherearealotofhappyandcontendedpeopleinMemphis! Catering is also an option, with items that include catfish, turkey, as well ascoconut,pecanandother pies. Open Sunday to Thursday, 11:00 a.m.to9:00p.m.,andFridayandSaturday,11:00a.m.to10:00p.m.Phone901527-4877.

PHELAN HOUSEThis fashionable suburban house, built between1828-1833,onceservedasheadquartersforboththeconfederateandunionarmiesduringthecivilwaraswellashometofourpresidents.RegisteredontheNationalRegistryofHistoricHomes,andmorethanamuseum,thishousethatsurvivedasthelastofthegreatBealeStreetMansionisalivingandbreathingsliceofhistory.Situatedonsevenacres,thepropertyattracts visitors from not only the state but fromaroundtheworld.Itsuniquerooms,decoratedwithperiod furniture, welcome guests with comfortableandmodernamenities.Afteranappetizingcontinentalbreakfast in the restaurant, the traveler can take aleisurelystrollalongthepeacefulgarden.Thevariedmenu, including their signature dish of Red FishClemnso, is influenced by French Creole cooking while making use of the fresh produce from localpurveyors. Contemporary four-star cuisine awaitsyouinastylishatmosphere.www.huntphelan.com.

CHEZ PHiLiPPE rESTAUrANT

Cuban born and French-trained Chef RinaldoAlfonso incorporates French cuisine with Asianinfluences in his creative dishes. Unusual fares of veal osso bucco, dumplings and tempting comfortfoods such as apple fritters with walnut-maple icecream are to be discovered on the menu. What

Gus’s interior

Gus’s hot and spicy fried chicken with side dishes

Phelan Houserelaxing garden - Phelan House


you won’t find is duck which (not coincidentally) hasnotbeenservedsince1981whenthePeabodyHotel reopened. Considered to be the city’s mostopulent dining room, Chez Philippe has receivedthe AAA Four Diamond Award and the only Mobil4-Stargourmet restaurantwinner in theMid-South.www.peabodymemphis.com/dining

SITES AND SOUNDS IN MEMPHIS STAX rECOrDSMany famoussoulsingersgot theirstartatStax,amom and pop operation which began in a garageand later moved to the old movie theatre. This‘holy grail’ produced so much musical talent that itis called “Soulsville U.S.A.”. In 1974, having lostthat family feeling, the theatre went under and theoriginal theatrewasdemolished in1989. Thenewtheatre, theonly ‘soulmusic’museumin theworld,opened in2003. IthousesmemorabiliaalongwiththemusicofMotown,MuscleShoals,HiandAtlanticRecords.Exhibitsfeaturetheinsideofa100-yearoldDeltachurchthatrepresentstherootsofSoul;IsaacHayes’ 1972 gold-trimmed, peacock blue “Superfly” Cadillac; and StudioA, where the Stax sound wasborn.MusicgreatssuchasArethaFranklin,BookerT., Wilson Pickett, Otis Redding and others camefromorrecordedatStax.

SUNSamPhillipsopened “MemphisRecordingService”in1950. Just twoyears later itbecame “Sun”, thestudiothatlaunchedJerryLeeLewis,JohnnyCash,Carl Perkins, B.B. King, Roy Orbison and HowlingWolf. ItwasatSun thatElvis recorded “That’sAllRight”onJuly5,1954.Stillaworkingstudiotoday,the public can tour the premises from 10:00 a.m.to 6:00 p.m., every hour on the half hour. Enjoy abeverageatthecafénextdoor,whereartistscanbeseenhangingoutbetweenrecordingsessions.

Chef rinaldo Alfonso, Chez Philippe restaurant

Gourmet Dining

Stax records Museum


MArCH OF THE DUCK – PEABODY HOTELNexttoElvisandBealeStreet,theMarchoftheDuckis one of the top three reasons to visit the historicalPeabody Hotel. What began as a prank in 1932,when General Manager Frank Schutt left three liveduckdecoysinthehotel’sGrandLobbyfountain,hasbecomeapopular tradition. In response to the initialfantastic reactions of the guests, five North American Mallardduckshavesincereplacedtheoriginals.Everythreemonthsnew1-yearoldducksarebroughtinandtrain for one week with the veteran ducks who thenreturntothefarmtoliveouttherestoftheirtime.TheDuckmaster, the fourth since the tradition began, isresponsible for training and maintaining the ducks.HousedintheDuckPalaceonthehotelroof,at11:00a.m. daily they march to the fountain to the tune ofJohnPhilipSousa’s“KingCottonMarch”,returningtotheirresidenceat5:00p.m.

CiViL riGHTS MUSEUM – “Injustice anywhere is an injustice everywhere”. Martin Luther King

Foundedin1991onthesiteoftheLorraineMotel,whereMartinLutherKingspenthislasthoursonApril4,1968,themuseumhasnineteenexhibithallsthatrecountthehistoryoftheCivilRightsMovementintheU.S.fromthe1600stoDr.King’sassassination.Thesecondbuildingacross the street, that includes the Young Morrowrooming house from which the fatal shot was fired by JamesEarleRay,opened in2002andcontinues thestory from 1968 until the present day.Allow yourselfplentyof time toproperly tour thismuseum thatstirsyour emotions and arouses deep feelings. For tourdatesandtimes,visitwww.civilrightsmuseum.org.


Ducks resting in the fountain

The Duckmaster

The Lorraine MotelAn Exhibit

COTTON EXCHANGEA hub for the cotton industry, morethan 50% of the cotton sold in theworld was sold in Memphis andbrought to Cotton Row whereeverything related to cotton washoused:insurance,transportationandbrokers.Cottonchangedthefaceandsoul of the South, while influencing themusicofsoul,bluesandrockandroll. The second building trading floor is now a museum with interactiveand informativedisplaysandvideos.Homage is still paid to cotton withthe yearly “Cotton Carnival” atwhich time King Cotton is crowned.www.memphiscottonmuseum.org.

GiBSON GUiTArElvis played mainly on a Gibson guitar. Recognized byitspatentedopenbook(moustache)design,theguitarismadefromMahoganyfromSouthAmericaandPoplarandMaplefromWisconsin.Allarehand-carvedandrequire12coatsoflacquer.Specialorderstakeuptoayeartoproduceandcost$10,000andmore.Approximately45guitarsadayareproducedbyworkerswhohavebeentrainedfrom2-12months.Beforetheproductisdelivered,two‘luthiers’testit.Consciousoftheenvironment,Gibsonreplantstreestoreplacethosecutdown.Thisguitarmakerislocatedat145Lt.GeorgeLeeAvenue,oneblockoffBealeStreet.www.gibson.com.

SMiTHSONiAN’S MEMPHiS rOCK & SOUL MUSEUMThe only downtown museum experience in Memphis,it covers the history of gospel, country, and rock andsoul music. Developed by the Smithsonian Institute,it tells the story of the civil rights movement throughmusic from the 1930s to the 1970s and showcasesrare Elvis memorabilia. www.memphisrocknsoul.org.

record Keeping

Cotton Samples

rock & roll Museum

Gibson Guitar


CASEY JONES ViLLAGE

SituatedonInterstate40,halfwaybetweenMemphisand Nashville, this village houses Brooks Shaw’sOld Country Store.

Before it opened in 1965 this restaurant was amuseum, but today you can pamper yourself with“Best of the South” traditional food. Historically, thesouthern table is not just fried chicken or barbecueandcracklingcornbread,butalsofeaturesvegetables.This restaurant offers an ample buffet that includes10-15hotvegetableseachday, thuspromoting localfarmers’marketproduce,socomehungryasthereisalargeselectionofyummyfooditems.TheShaw’saremembers of the Slow Food program, and SouthernFoodway (encyclopedia of southern Culture). Livebluegrassmusicplayedby70musicianswhocomefromallwalksoflife,beitfarmersorcorporateexecutives,canbeheardatthecountrystorethroughouttheyear.BrowsetheWellwoodstorewhereyoucanpurchaseitemsdatingbackto1940orprior,andtakeyourpickof flavours at the 1890s ice cream parlor. This village is a great place to visit for the entire family. www.oldcountrystore.com.

CharlieandJudyTripp foundedTrippCountryHamsin1963.Weweretoavarietyofcountryhamsincludingroll and fried which were served with red-eye gravyand biscuit. Similar to Spain’s “Cerrano” and Italy’s“prosciutto”, this varietyhasgarneredmanyawards.www.countryhams.com.

ProducedbyFreddyandMaryBethSmith,Sorghumismadefrom14-18ft.stalksofsorghumandtransformedinto golden brown syrup that contains importantnutrientssuchasiron,calciumandpotassium.Agreathealthfood,itcanbepouredoverpancakes,biscuitsortoast,icecreamorasaningredientforgingersnapsorgingerbread.Infact,itcanbeusedforanyrecipethat requiresmolasses,honey,cornormaplesyrup.www.smithsorghumfarm.com.

Brooks and Juanita Shaw

“Ham it up”

Bluegrass Musicians


DISCOVERINGNASHVILLEABOUT NASHViLLEJames Robertson spent the Christmas of 1779 here, and built Fort Nashborough, later renamed Nashville (French version). Overlooking the Cumberland River, Nashville was the first state capital to fall during the civil war. Boasting 28 colleges, universities and trade schools, the city is considered the “Athens of the South”. In fact, you can view the world’s only “temporary’ exact replica of the Parthenon in Athens, which was built in 1897 to celebrate Nashville’s 100th anniversary. The upper portion is a 42’ statue of Athena, Goddess of Wisdom, while the bottom is an Art Museum. .

Nashville is home to the Ryman Auditorium, the 5th home of the Grand Ole Opry that features gospel, rock and roll, and soul music (and every winter the Opry still returns to the Ryman). The Fisk Jubilee Singers were the first group to be recorded in Nashville. Today there are 1,500 recording studios, the most famous of which is the RCA Victor Studio “B”, along Music Row, where Elvis recorded “Are you lonely tonight?” in one take, in the dark. In addition to its musical importance, the city is known for its major insurance and banking industries.

Gastronomical Delights

ViKiNG STOrELocated in Franklin, this unique store proffersdemonstrations, hands-on cooking classes, winetastingsandprivateeventsforaminimumof6people.Sincecookingbringseveryonetogetherinabondingexperience, these events are ideal for birthday,

graduation,clientappreciation,andcorporate teambuilding occasions. Three to five-hour programs are tailored to meet individual needs. The CIA CordonBleuchef,whoalsomaintainsthekitchen,conductsthe program in addition to his full-time job. Thedemokitchenseats46-50comfortably,but there isalsoanoutdoorkitchenwithgrill/smokythatisusedwhenweatherpermits.BusywithprivateeventsfromOctober–December,visitwww.vikingcookingschool.com/franklin ifyouwishtoattendclasses.

Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • �0

PANCAKE PANTrY

Youdon’thavetowaituntil ‘PancakeTuesday’togetyour fill of pancakes. Just join the locals who line up for hourseverydayto indulge inamultitudeofpancakevariations,alongwithotherregularbreakfastandlunchitemsfromthevastmenu.Whatwillyouselect–theAustralian Apple-Walnut, Sweet Potato or GeorgiaPeachpancakes?Thechoiceisentirelyuptoyou,andyouwillrelisheverybite.Visitwww.thepancakepantry.comformoreinformation.

MiDTOWN CAFÉ

Opened in 1987 by Randy Rayburn, this upscalerestaurant has become a common meeting groundfor the well-known. The modern décor is a perfectbackdrop for enjoying one of 40 wines by the glass,or150bythebottle.Guestscansavorthegenerousportionof theappetizing “SeafoodSaladSpecial”,orthescrumptiousArtichokeandLemonSoupthatblewmeaway. The lemontartnessoffsets theartichoke’ssweetness and, slightly spicy, it was enhanced bypepperynotesoffreshlygroundblackpepper.Kudosto Chef Brian Uhl for creating sophisticated disheswhich still manage to honor southern style cooking.Valetparkingisavailable,reservationsrecommended.www.midtowncafe.com.

NASHViLLE OriGiNALS – The Group

Thirty-eightindependentandlocally-ownedrestaurantshave banded together to establish an NashvilleOriginals, an organization that promotes suchrestaurants while increasing public awareness. Ourevening featured fourchefs,eachofwhompreparedonecoursewhileadheringtothephilosophythatonemustusegoodproductsandtreatthemwithrespect.An unusual dish was a different take on chicken/waffle which, surprisingly, proved to be not as sweet asexpected. Itwasamemorableevening,madeall thebetterwithentertainmentprovidedbysongwriter/singerJamesDeanHicks.

Pancake Pantry

Mmmmm good

Artichoke and Lemon Soup atMidtown Café

Chicken Waffle


UNiON STATiONBreakfastatthemodernreincarnationoftheiconicUnionStationwassuperbwaytobegintheday.Thehotel’sintimate approach to functions and dining, coupledwith its extensive wine list developed by the on-sitesommelier,ensuresthatguestsarenotdisappointed.www.unionstationhotelnashville.com/dining

GAYLOrD OPrYLAND rESOrT AND CONVENTiON CENTErThe largest of the four Gaylord properties, and the17th largest in the world, this marvelous complexencompasses 9.5 acres of gardens and waterways‘underglass’.With2,881guestrooms,it’snotsurprisingthat it requires 400 culinary personnel to feed the 3millionguestseachyear.Youdon’thavetobeaguestto eat at any of its distinctive restaurants, each ofwhich is a reflection of history, food and architecture. At the newly renovated Cascades we were dazzledbysamplesfromtheSeafoodRestaurantandenticedby the Italian dishes from Ristorante Volare. Thosewholikeabitofeverythingcanmaketheirwaytothebuffet at Water’s Edge, while fine dining is offered at the Old Hickory Steakhouse. More casual fare suchashamburgersandribeyesteaksareservedatJackDaniel’sSaloon.Themenusareasvariedastheyareextensive,andyouwillbehardpressedtomakeyourselection. That’s reason enough to visit more thanonce! www.gaylordhotels.com/gaylord-opryland.

CiTY HOUSEIt may look like a rundown house in the city’sGermantown section, but this restaurant’s interiorgreetsvisitorswithgreatspace,highceilings,woodenblocktablesandamoderndécor.ChefTandyWilsonopenedtherestaurantin2007withdishesinspiredbyhis travels in Italy,whileexercisingacommonsenseapproach to using sustainable organic products inpreparing simple food. Pizza is probably the biggestitem, but there is something to be said for the Fricofrom Italy’s Friuli region, catfish from Missouri, and breadgnocchi.www.cityhousenashville.com.

Breakfast at Union Station

Gardens and waterways – Gaylord Opryland resort

L-r: Seth Kondor, Executive Chef, Old Hickory Steakhouse; Forrest Parker, Executive Chef,

Cascades; Jason Kroll, Executive Chef, Water’s Edge Marketplace Buffet & ristorante Volare.

Pizza anyone?


MArGOT CAFÉ & BAr

ManyoftheVictorianhomesandstatelymanorsthatoncegracedthis‘heartofeastNashville”werewipedawaybya tornado.But thisestablishment, launched in theearly 1900’s as the first neighbourhood restaurant in Nashville, continues to provide visitorswitharangeofrusticTuscanyandSouthernFrancedishes.Themenu,thatchanges daily and is seasonally driven, can be accompanied with wines from itseclectic and far-reaching list. Reservations are strongly recommended by calling.www.margotcafe.com.

CAPiTOL GriLLE AT THE HErMiTAGE HOTELWhatablissfulexperienceitwastodineinthiselegantlyappointed106seatdiningroomlocatedintheHermitageHotel,whichopeneditsdoorsin 1910. The hotel became ‘the’ gathering place for the city’s uppercrust, as well as other well known figures ranging from presidents to war heroes and actors. Originally built as a private club or men only,the restaurant’s ambiance reflects the creative accomplishments of Executive Chef Tyler Brown. Using only the freshest and seasonallocal products - with emphasis on Tennessee BlackAngus Beef andgame,aswellas freshseafood -hecreatesgastronomicaldelicaciesthat are sure to make your palate sing. Impeccable service and animpressive wine list round out your dining experience beautifully.www.thehermitagehotel.com

Margot Cafe & Bar

Chef/Owner, Margot McCormack

Pleasure of a fresh salad (Capital Grille – the Hermitage)

Anna Cavaliere, Editor/WriterEditor/Writersince1992forEnotecaWine&FoodMagazine(nowEliteWine,Food&Travel),Annahasreportedonwineandfoodeventsfrommany of the world’s wine regions: Australia, New Zealand, Portugal,France, Spain, Malta, Greece, Italy, U.S. and Canada. A member oftheInternationalFederationofWineandSpiritsJournalistsandWriters(F.I.J.E.V.),andI.F.W.T.W.A.(InternationalFood,Wine&TravelWriters

Association).Annafeelsparticularlyfortunatethatshecanwriteaboutherthreepassions:wine,food,andtravel.

e


Article and photos by W.C. Enoteca

Israel.The word conjures up childhoodimagesoftheHolyLandandmovies

I had seen showing dessert-like terrains. My first andrecenttriptothisimpressivecountryshowedmeanother side altogether. As the plane landed inTelAvivImarveledatthesurroundinggreenery.Infact,Iwastoldthatsuchverdantandfertilelandsextendforhundredsofkms.northofthecity.

Although I was eager to see and learn more aboutthis fascinating country, the primary reason for myvisitwas toattendIsraWinexpo2010and familiarizemyselfwithIsraeliwines.

Winemaking in israel

Israeli winemaking began in the triangle thatencompassestheBlackSea,theCaspianSeaandtheSeaofGalillee.Infact,theoldestgrapepipsfoundin

Levant date back to 8000 B.C., with the first recorded vineyardplantedbyNoahin2000B.C.

Israel’swineindustryfurtherevolvedthankstoathree-fold revolutionwhichbeganwith the foundingof themodernIsraelwineindustrywhenBaronEdmonddeRotschild, owner of Chateau Lafite founded Carmel Winery in 1882. The second phase ‘the qualityrevolution’wasledbyGolanHeightsWinery,foundedin 1983, that applied the newest technology both inthevineyardsandwinemakingsectors.Thethirdtookplace in the1990s,when thecountry’swinemarketcameofagewithaneruptionofboutiquewineries,wineimportsandstoresthatalsoledto‘winetourism’.

Israel devotes about 12,350 acres to vineyards, thesoils forwhichcan range fromvolcanic in thenorth,TerraRossaonthecoast,chalkandlimestoneonthehillsandsandy/clayinthesouth.Suchsoilconditions,

Tel Aviv as seen from Jaffa

DISCOverINg ISrAeLI WINeSIsraWineXpo

The 3rd International Wine Exhibition

w i n e


coupled with a mainly Mediterranean climate that involveslong,hotdrysummersandshortwetwinters(withsemiaridanddesertconditionsintheNeveg),result indistinctiveandoftenqualitywines.

The traditional Carignan and French Colombard varietieshavelargelybeenreplacedwithCabernetSauvignon,Merlot,ChardonnayandSauvignonBlancthat todayareused in theproductionofqualitywines.Inaddition,tablewinesutilizeothervarietiessuchasShiraz/Syrah,CabernetFranc,PetiteSyrah,Argaman,PetitVerdot,Malbec,PinotNoir,Sangiovese,Barbera,Zinfandel,Pinotage,Gewurztraminer,Viognier,WhiteRiesling,

inside the pavilion

Carmel Winery booth

Emerald Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Semillon,MuscatCanelliandMuscatofAlexandria.

The Kosher Story

The world kosher means “pure”. Israel is,without a doubt, the finest producer of kosher winesintheworld.

Althoughmanyofthelargerwineriesproducekosher wines, it cannot be assumed that allIsraeliwinesarekosher.Norshouldthewordbeconfusedwiththesweetsacramentalwineswhichinthepasthavegivenall‘kosher’winesabadrap.

QualityIsraeliwines‘thathappentobekosher’are made in exactly the same way as non-kosher wine. However, at the winery boththewineandwineryequipmentmayonlybetouchedbyorthodoxJews.Aswell,onlykoshersubstances such as yeasts, fining agents, etc. maybeused in theprocess. TherearealsoBiblical agricultural laws for kosher wines inIsrael. However, none of such rules impacton the wine’s quality. Many of Israeli wineshavereceivedhighscoresandbeenawardedmedalsincompetitions.Thefactthatthewineisalsokosherisjustincidental.

Itmightmakesensetoestablisha‘designation’totheirqualitywines,whichcanberecognizedworldwide.

ISRAWINEXPO 2010Held in TelAviv, this biennial trade providesanopportunity for producers tobringgreaterawareness of their wines to local andinternationalvisitors. Includedweresidetripsto randomly selected wineries for a more‘up close and personal’ encounter with thewinemakers.

Our first introduction to Israeli wines began at CordiliaRestaurant inJaffawithadelectabledinner that was accompanied by a numberof wines from a variety of producers. Whatfollows are just a few of the wines that wesampled during our meal as well as thosesampledduringvisitsatindividualwineries.


Adir

This winery was founded in the nineties by theAshkenaziandRosenbergfamilieswhobeganbysellingtheirgrapestootherwineries.Whentheydecidedtoproducetheirownwinesafewyearsago, state-of-the-art equipment was purchasedand some stimulating wines are now availableonthemarket.Approximately10,000bottlesareproduced each year mainly using the CabernetSauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz varietals. At thewinerywesampledthePlato2005,createdwith92%CabernetSauvignonand8%Shiraz,offersaprofusionofblackfruitsandgoodtanninsthatwillmakefurthercellaringpossible.TheShirazKeremBenZimra2008,madewith100%Shirazdelightsthesenseswith itsdarkhuesandconcentratedfruitybouquet.Drinkablenow,thewealthof tannins will allow the wine to improvewithin the next 3-5 years. The visitor’scentreisreadytowelcomeyouand,shouldyou visit, be sure to sample the cheesesthatarechurnedoutbythiswinery.

Avidan Winery

TsinaAvidan,anarchitectwhoispassionateabout wine, not only manages this smallfamily winery but is also its winemaker.Situated at Kibbutz Eyal, on the othersideofKfarSaba thewinery, thiswinery,established in 2000, now has an annualproductionof30,000bottlesamongthreemain labels:Fringe,BlenddesNoirsandReserve. Grapes, sourced fromthe Judean Foothills and Hills,produce premium Mediterranean-style wines that have beenawardedmedalsinbothIsraeliandinternational wine competitions.We sampled the distinctiveAvidan 2007 Grenache Premium,composedof85%BlackGrenache(Carignan), 10% Tempranillo and5%PetiteSyrah.

Entrance to Adir Winery

Adir Wines and Cheeses


BarkanAs the country’s second largestwinery, Barkan’s diversified portfolio runs the gamut frombest-selling and affordable tohigh-end and superior wines.In all cases, the consumer isassured of getting top value fortheir money. This winery’s logostates“ArtisansofRedWine”andtheBarkanCabernetSauvignonAltitudeReserve+4122006isatrueexpressionof itsterroir. Tocreate this complex wine eachvineyardisharvested,fermentedandagedseparatelyinthebarrel.Only when maturity is achievedare the lots blended together tocreate the Reserve CabernetSauvignon.

Segal Wines With its motto of “Making Wine Differently”,thiswineryhasbeenproducingwine in Israelforover100years.Infact,thiswinerywasthefirst to plant vineyards in the Upper Galilee region.ItmergedwithBarkanWineCellarsin2001and,sincethen,winemakerAviFeldsteinretains winemaking autonomy to fashiontasteful wines that reflect originality and style. Export markets such as Canada and Polandare the beneficiaries of these wines. The Rehasim Dishon Cabernet Sauvignon 2005,withgrapessourcedfromtheDishonvineyardcomprisedofalluvialclaycombinedwithgraveland limestone, is an outstanding example ofhis success.Aged in mainly new French oakbarrels for20months, the lotsareblended intanks for an additional five months. The wine giftsthetastebudswithanelegantlybalancedstructureandcomplexitythatismagical.

Dalton WineryWhen it was established in 1995, this winerybecame one of the first located in the Upper Galilee region, five kilometres from the Lebanese border, this small family-owned

Tasting at Barkan Winery

Barkan Vineyards

Dalton Winery products


winery prides itself in producing quality wineswith such varietals as Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz,Barbera, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Viognier andSauvignonBlanc.ThedelightfulSauvignonBlancReserve2008rewardedthepalatewithremarkablecitrusandtropical fruitnotesandapleasingandlingering finish. At the winery we sampled Matatia 2006,madewith80%CabernetSauvignon,15%Merlotand5%CabernetFranc.Thedarkpurplehue foretells of the rich flavours reminiscent of fruitsoftheforestthatareenhancedwithhintsoftobaccoandlicorice.Thisfull-bodiedwinehasgreatstructure and balance, and has wonderful agingpotential(sellsfor$100.00).Everyoneiswelcometotakeguidedtoursofthewineryand,thankstoitsproximitytoattractionsthatareimportantintermsofreligionandhistory,thispicturesqueregionhasnowbecomeapopular tourist destination.www.dalton-winery.com.

Ella Valley Vineyards

FromtheJudeanhillsonegoesthroughtheLandofthe Bible to reach EllaValley. In ancient timestheareawasrecognizedforitsgrapegrowingandwinemaking.Itisalsothebirthplace of the biblicalhero Samson as wellas the spot where thefamous battle betweenDavid and Goliathtook place. The EllaValley Vineyards plantsvarietalssuchasMerlot,Cabernet Sauvignon,Cabernet Franc, PinotNoir, Petite Syrah andSyrahtoproduce itsredwines. Approximatelyabout 200,000 bottlesof premium wines areproduced annually, witharound 40% diffused tointernational markets

Ella’s olive oil


each year, an extraordinary amount in the Israeliwineindustry.TheRRVC(VintnersChoice)2004madewith60%Merlotand40%CabernetSauvignonis a fine example of what winemaker Doron Rav Hon wishes to accomplish. www.ellavalley.com.Alsoofinterestistheirownproductionofpremiumoliveoil.

Golan Heights WineryLocated in the town of Katzrin, in the centralGolan, this winery that is blessed with ideal soil,topography and climate conditions is positionedto create exceptional wines. In fact, it has beeninstrumental in developing new varieties and ininfluencing and promoting Israel’s wine culture. TheYarden“HeightsWine”2007,madewith100%Gewurztraminer, delivers a powerfully intenseflavour and displays good structure and acidity. Reminiscent of Icewine, it will pair beautifullywith rich desserts but my personal preference

Tasting at Golan Heights Winery

Towards the Golan Heights


Tasting at Golan Heights Winery

would be with gorgonzola cheese. I was equallyimpressed with the variety and quality of its winewhenwevisited thewinerywheremostnotablewasthe 2004 Yarden Merlot. Proffering light tannins, itis ready tobeenjoyedyetcancellar fora fewmoreyears. Not surprisingly, the winery has garnerednumerousmedalsat internationalwinecompetitions.www.golanwines.co.il.

TzoraVineyards,foundedin1993bythelateRonnieJames, was one of the first to plant vineyards in the JudeanHills,anarea thathasbeenassociatedwithwinemakingsincebiblicaltimes.Thewinesproducedontheirthreevineyards(Giv’atHachalukim,Shoreshand Neve Ilan), come from grapes grown on man-made terraces that rise from the coastal plain. ThesoilscanvaryfromrockyLimestoneoutcropstothoserich in minerals. Winemaker Eran Pick, who joinedthe team in 2006, creates well-rounded wines thathaveagingpotential.The terror-drivenORShoreshDessert wine is made from Gewurztraminer grapesgrownon thehighest plot ofShoreshVineyardandhas a limited production of 1625 bottles. Intenselyfragrant it pleases thepalatewithdelightful tropicalfruitandmineraltones,andwillmakeagreatadditiontoyourcellar.www.tzoravineyards.com.

Vitkin WineryEstablished in 2001 by Doron and Sharona Paz-Belogolovsky and Oenologist/Bordeaux graduateAsafPaz,thiswineryhasalreadyearnedareputation

for producing unique and original wines. GrapevarietiesincludeCarignan,Viognier,Gewurztraminer,Cabernet Franc, Johannesburg Riesling, PetiteSyrah and Pinot Noir. Sourcing these grapes fromselect vineyards from around the country, thewineryproducessuperiorwinesof distinction. The2007 Israeli Journey,VitkinCarignan, ismadewith95% Carigan, and 5% Grenache Noir from severalold vineyards in the Binyamina & Zichron YaackovRegions.Havingundergonemalolacticfermentationand aging in French oak barrels, the wine exhibitsaninkycolourandrewardsthepalatewithafullandearthy mouthfeel of prunes and blackberry. It candevelop further in the bottle for another 4-6 years.www.vitkin-winery.co.il.

As a first experience, I was very impressed with the overallqualityofthewinesalthoughtheaccompanyingpricetagmightmakethembeyondthereachofmanyconsumers.Theestablishmentof,andpromotionofa‘wineroute’,similartothoseinotherwine-producingcountries, might appeal to wine aficionados and tie in tourismwith theever-developing wine industry inIsrael.

Thankstoacolleague,MichaelBen-JosephWM,whowaskindenoughtosquiremearound,IdiscoveredthevibrantandmodernTelAvivandtheneighbouringcityofJaffa.Ihopetoreturnsoon,sothatIcanuncovereven more fascinating facets of this extraordinarycountry. Shalom! e


JErUSALEMAs Israel’scapital,Jerusalem issituatedin the Judean Mountains between theMediterraneanSeaandthenorthernedgeof the Dead Sea. With a population ofsome764,000residentswithinanareaof125.1km2thatincludeseastJerusalem,thecityisalsothelargestinthecountry.

Dating back to the 4th millennium BCE,it isoneof theoldest cities in theworldandhaswithstoodnumerousattacksandbesiegement.It isalsotheholiestcityinJudaism,aholycityinChristianity,andthethirdholiestcityinIslam.Notwithstandingitsareaofonly0.9km2, theOldCity ishome to key religious sites that includetheWesternWall,TempleMount,ChurchoftheHolySepulchre,DomeoftheRockandtheal-AqsaMosque.

Sunset over Jerusalem

Walls of Jerusalem

Israel’sSightst r a v e l


AnimportantJewishreligioussitelocatedintheOldCityofJerusalem,TheWesternWall(alsoknownastheWailingWall)istheonlyremaining structure of the ancient Templeof Jerusalem.Approximately over half thewall, including its 17 coursesbelowstreetlevel, dates back to 19 BCE constructedbyHerod theGreat.The remaining layerswereadded from the7thcenturyonwardsandtodaytheabovegroundportionextends1,600feet,mostofwhichishiddenbehindresidentialstructuresbuiltalongitslength.Amechitza(partition)isusedtoseparatemenandwomen,believedtopreservemodesty.ItiscommontoseemanyJewswhocomefrom around the world write prayers andmessagesonpaperandstickthembetweenthecracks.Ifyouplantovisit,bepreparedforsecuritycheckandremembertoactinareverentmanner.Showrespectbydressing

The Western (Wailing) Wall

Market Shopping


properly(noshortsortankshows),andnotethatnopicturescanbe takenstartingFridayatsunsetuntilSaturdaynight.Thewallisano-smokingzone.

Many bargains can be had at bazaar-lie marketswithintheoldcitywalls.Othershoppingis,ofcourse,availableatmodernsitessuchasthepopularKenion(Jerusalem)ShoppingMall.Thoughnotlarge,itdoesboast over 250 shops and restaurants not locatedelsewhereinthecity.Freeparkingisavailable,buttrytoavoidSaturdaynightwhentheremightbeaBeitarJerusalemfootballmatchattheadjacentTeddyKollekStadium.

JaffaThisoldPalestinianportcity,nowpartofTelAviv,hasexistedsincesome4,000yearsago. NamedJaffa(meaningbeautiful)bytheCanaanites,theChristianlegend tells us that it was named after Noah’s son–Yefet–whobuiltitaftertheGreatFlood.Today,outofa totalofapproximately35,000residents,25,000arePalestinianArabs.

Tourists can visit the old fishing harbor, modern boat docks, and the tourism centre. Plans are currentlyunderway to beautify and modernize the port area,

Streets in Jaffa

ModernTelAviv


andexpandingtheboardwalkalongtheseafromBatYamtoTelAviv.LightrailthatwillgofromBatYamtoPetachTikvah,andthroughouttheGushDanterritory,isalsobeingconstructed.

ThemunicipalityofTelAviv-Jaffaiscurrentlyworkingto beautify and modernize the port area, and areexpanding the boardwalk along the sea from BatYamtoTelAviv.Theyarealsoconstructingalightrailthat will travel from BatYam to PetachTikvah andthroughouttheGushDanterritory.

Tel AvivWitha landmassof51.4sq.km. is locatedon theIsraeli Mediterranean coastline, and as of 2008home to 3.2 million residents. Originally built ontheoutskirtsof theancientport cityofJaffa,which

waslargelyArabatthetime,TelAviv’sgrowthsoonoutpacedJaffa.TelAviv’s“WhiteCity”,designatedin2003asaUNESCOWorldHeritageSite,comprisestheworld’s largestconcentrationofModernist-stylebuildings.

LikeNewYorkCity,ithasearnedareputationasa“citythatneversleeps”withits24-hourculture.Apopulartourist destination for both local and internationalvisitors alike, it offers beaches, bars, restaurants,cafes, upscale shopping and great weather allencompassedbyacosmopolitanlifestyle.

TheMiddleEast’ssecondbiggestcityeconomy,TelAviv isranked42ndamongglobalcitiesbyForeignPolicy’s2008GlobalCitiesIndex,itisalsoreputedtobetheregion’smostexpensivecityandthe17thmostexpensivecityintheworld. e


PAN SeAreD rOCKFISh SUrrYANO hAM AND SWeeT POTATO hASh ACCOMPANIeD BY FreSh ArUgULA WITh A CherrY TOMATO COULIS

f o o d

1 8oz filet of striped bass (rockfish)2oz.¼inchdicedSurryanoham1oz.¼inchdicedyellowonions3oz.¼inchdicedsweetpotato2.5oz.fresharugula4oz.cherrytomatotruffle oil to toss with arugula

1.Blend cherry tomatoes whole in a blender addingsalt,pepper,sugartotaste.2.Season rockfish with salt and pepper. Set aside.

3.Heatupsautépanwitha littleoilandrenderdowntheham,addonionsandsautéthemuntiltranslucent.Addsweetpotatoesandcookonlow-mediumheatuntilpotatoesarefullycooked.Keepwarm.4.While finishing your sweet potatoes, pan-sear rockfish ononeside,turnoverandplaceinovenuntilcookedtodesireddoneness.5.Place sweet potato hash on plate. Arrange the fish onplate.6.Toss arugula with nice truffle oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange on top of fish as garnish or use it asavegetable.

Rockfish -Sustainable Food

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WineBuysArticle by Barbara D. Ritchie

Photos by Barbara and Margot Ritchie

Ontario Wine Awards – Featured Wines

While you are enjoying the long, hot summer days,whynotsavoursomeofthebestlocalwinesjudgedbyattheannualOntarioWineAwards,launchedin1995byfellowwinewriterTonyAspler.A‘SipandSavourOntario’ program features these wines at variousvineyardsandrestaurantsacrossOntario.

Calamus Pinot Gris 2008 (12.2%;$15.20; 2010Bronze; Jordan) is an excellent example of thisvarietal which has become the signature grape forCalamus. Unoaked, this pale lemon wine has lighthoneyed notes, with apricot, peach and touches ofgrapefruit.Coyote’s Run Estate Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Gris 2009(12.5%;$17.95;#116582;St.David’sBench) is pale coloured, showing tropical flavours of melonandpeach,withgrapefruit,mineralandspiceundertones. Fielding Estate Rock Pile Pinot Gris 2009 (13.0%;$25.95;Beamsville)isalovelysummersipper.Palelemonincolour,thisbright,off-drywine

offersarefreshingpalateoflemon,ripepearandmelonflavours. Five Rows Craft Wine Lowrey Vineyards Pinot Gris 2008(13.3%;$25.00;St.David’sBench)is from a family run grape growing operation in itsfifth generation. Howard and his wife Wilma manage the vineyards. Karl Kaiser, co-founder of Inniskillin,persuaded them to replant five rows in the 35 acre vineyardandmaketheirownwine.Thisresultedinthe‘FiveRows’line,whichtheirsonandwinemakerWeshand crafts. The French oak influence and stirring on the lees softens its forward flavours of star fruit, green apple,citrusandmelon.Sue-Ann Staff Estate Pinot Grigio 2008 (11.5%;$18.00;Jordan)isaperfectpatiowine, with lemon zest, almond notes and hints ofsmokewhich,asSue-Annexplains,comes fromtheclaycomponentinthesoil.

Chateau des Charmes Estate Bottled Sauvignon Gris 2008 (12.5%;$19.95;2009Silver;Niagara-on-the-Lake)iscrispandclean,withavibrantlimepeel,grapefruit,pearandpronouncedgooseberrycharacter.

w i n e

OWA-Red wine of the year 2010 – Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc Reserve 2007

OWA-White wine of the year 2010 – Huff Estates South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay 2007

Photos by Stephen Elphick


Asyet,thisistheonlyCanadianwinerytoplantthisvarietal,makingitauniquetasteexperience.

Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay Reserve 2007(13.0%; $35.00; 2010 Silver; Jordan) was aged inFrenchoakbarrels,30%ofwhichwerenew,andforafurther10monthsinolderFrenchbarrelstreatedwithamediumtoast.Theresultisanimpressiveintegrationofoak,withfullsweetvanillaandtoastcomplementingthe ripe citrus flavours. Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay 2007 (14.0%;$35.00;#616433;St.Catharines)isfromawineryownedandoperatedbythethreeSpeckbrothers,Paul,MatthewandDaniel, since1988. This lushwineshows ripepear and lemon flavours, with a buttery, creamy palate dusted with vanilla, toast and spuce. Huff Estates South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay 2007(13.0%;$29.95;2010Gold;WhiteWineof theYearAward; Bloomfield, PEC) will gain complexity with cellaring.Brimmingwithripestonefruit,itwasagedinFrenchoakfor18monthsyieldingcomplexnotesofbrioche,almonds,vanillacream,bakingspicesandcaramel. Lailey Vineyard Brickyard Chardonnay 2008 (12.5%; $30.00; Niagara-on-the-Lake) offersforward flavours of peach, pear and apple, with a lovelyoakcomponenton thebroadpalate. Lailey Vineyard Old Vines Chardonnay 2008 (12.5%;$40.00) comes from vines planted in 1978. Sweet

ripe pears, apples and citrus flavours come through in the persistent finish. Peller Estates Andrew Pellar Signature Series ‘Sur Lie’ Chardonnay 2008 (13.5%;$30.00;2010Bronze)wasbarrelfermented,leftsurliefor12monthsandagedinFrenchoaktogiveitacreamymouthfeel,withbuttery,toastynotesadding to the lemon and pear flavours. Rosewood Estates Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 (14.0%;$18.00; 2010 Silver; Beamsville) is medium lemonyellow.Fiftypercentofthiswineunderwentmalolacticfermentationtogiveitasofter,creamieraspectthatbalances out its intrinsic bright citrus, green applecharacter. Vineland Estates Chardonnay Unoaked 2008 (12.0%;$12.85;#669374;Vineland)isacrisp,cleanwinewithagoodacidiccoreunderpinninggreenapple and peach flavours.

Tawse Chardonnay Musque 2009 (12.5%;$21.95;2010Gold;Vineland)ispalelemonyellowincolour.Slightlyoff-dry, it offers juicy ripepear,passion fruitand melon flavours and nuances of honeysuckle as is typical of this delightful Chardonnay clone. Thebalancing acidity gives it a fresh lively finish.

Rosewood Estates Winery Semillon 2008(13.0%;$18.00; #177758; 2010 Bronze; Beamsville)underwent anextended fermentation of twoweeks.Winemaker Natalie Spytkowsky feels that low heat,

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Vineyard bridge – Rosewood Estates Winery Photo by Rosewood


Barbara ritchie is a wine writer and lecturer. Having travelled extensively throughout the main wine-growing regions of the world with her twin sister Ann, she regularly conducts wine seminars for major corporations and restaurant groups, while also participating in various wine judging panels worldwide,

including intervin. Her judging experience includes a session at italy’s prestigious “Banco d’Assaggio”, held each year at Lungarotti’s Le Tre Vaselle in Umbria, to assess wines fro m t h roughout italy.

and the resulting slow fermentation draws out thefruit flavours of white peach and ripe melon, and hint of gooseberry that characterizes this varietal whengrowninacoolclimate.

Southbrook Vineyards “Fresh” White 2009(9.7%$16.95; 2010 Silver; Niagara-on-the-Lake) is handcrafted by winemaker Ann Sperling, who observesstrictbiodynamicandorganicpracticesinthevineyardand winery. Made from early-harvested grapes thatwerewholeclusterpressed,this100%Vidalwineishighlyperfumed,withscentsofwhitepeach,orangeand apple blossoms, and baking spices that carrythroughontothelusciouspalate.

Coyote’s Run Estate Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008 (12.0%; $24.95; #79228; St. David’s Bench)ismediumplumcoloured. Its delicateandaromaticcharacter is typical of wines from this vineyard, incontrast to theearthieranddarker fruitcharacteroftheBlackPawVineyardwines.Ithasraspberryandwhite cherry flavours, with spice and subtle toasty notes. Five Rows Craft Wine Lowrey Vineyards Pinot Noir 2007 (12.5%;$50.00;St.David’sBench)is made with the same varietal that makes up themajority of this boutiquewinery’s production. Juicyand spicy, it has floral aromas, cherry, raspberry and strawberry flavours and a slight earthy character, with hintsoftobacco.Flat Rock Pinot Noir Reserve 2007(12.8%;$45.00;Jordan)isanintriguingwinewithsweetripecherries,streaksofterroirandmoderatetannins.Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 (13.5%;$40.00;#657874;St.Catharines) isafruitdrivenwine,withripefruitcherriesandstreaksofearth in the finish. Lailey Vineyard Brickyard Pinot Noir 2008 (12.5%; $35.00 Niagara-on-the-Lake)hasahighacidbackbone,withjuicycherryandredcurrant flavours finishing with good minerality. Lailey Vineyard Niagara Peninsula Pinot Noir 2008(13.0%;$25.00;Niagara-on-the-Lake)isgarnetcoloured,withup front plum, red currant and pomegranate flavours, finishing with an herbal and earthy aspect. Lailey Vineyard Old Vines Pinot Noir(12.5%;$45.00)isawineofmediumdepth,withadustypalateofcherry,plum,mocha,cedarandearth. Lailey’swinemaker,Derek Barnett, makes his wines in a delicate style,withdeftuseofoak.

Creekside Estate Reserve Merlot 2006 (13.0%;$34.95;2010Silver;Jordan)isawellmadeinkywine.Agedfor34monthsinoak,ithasripedarkberryandplum fruit, with cedar notes. Rosewood Estates

Merlot 2008 (13.0%; $20.00) is medium purplecoloured,withsweetDamsonplumandforestberryflavours. Red licorice, toast and coffee bean notes giveitaddedcomplexity.

Calamus Cabernet Franc 2007 (12.2%; $18.20;2010 Silver; Jordan) is a dark coloured wine withintense flavours of sweet juicy cherries and plums, framedwithcedarandspicenotes.Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc Reserve 2007(13%;$40.00;2010Gold;RedWineoftheYearAward;Vineland)ischerryplum purple in colour. The forward bouquet of ripedark plums, blueberries, cedar, tobacco and toastreappearonthefullbodiedpalate.Soft tanninsandanise notes play out on the lingering, complex finish.

Creekside Estate Broken Press Shiraz 2007(12.5%;$39.95;2010Silver;Jordan)has4%Viognierintheblendtomellowoutthetanninsandaddripefruitnotes,asistypicalofmanyAustralianShirazwines.Intense cherry and cranberry flavours are intermingled with black pepper notes. Lailey Vineyard Syrah 2008 (12.5%; $27.00; Niagara-on-the-Lake) has ahighacidnote,withsweetripecherries,overtonesofcedar, mocha and pepper, and a toasty finish.

HillebrandWinery’sSeniorWinemaker,DarrylBrookerwonthecoveted2010WinemakeroftheYearawardwherehehasspentseveralyearsatworkingontheTrius brand. Born in Canberra, Australia, he hastravelled extensively to gain experience in differentclimatic winegrowing conditions. His preference forcoolclimateoenologydrewhintoOntario’sNiagararegion justoveradecadeago,wherehespent twoharvestsatFlatRockCellarsbeforejoiningHillebrand.Withapassionforcreatingworldclassredwines,hehasrecentlystartedtoworkwithB.C.’sCedarCreekWineryintheOkanaganValley.

Formoreinformationandtoseeafulllistofwinningwinesvisitwww.ontariowineawards.ca. e

Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • �� Le Truffe Sauvage restaurant

Article and photos by Anna Cavaliere

Louisiana food is unique.

But,unlikeotherlocalcuisine,Louisianafoodscanbefoundoneverymenuinthecountry.WediscoveredjusthowdiverseandtemptingthefareisinCalcasieuParish(Lake Charles) situated in southwestLouisiana, also known as “Louisiana’sOutback”.

Sylvia’s Bistro/Happy HippyThis establishment is best known for their multi-varietybrick-ovenpizzas,aswellasmake-your-owncreationsandfreshsalads.Upbeatandcontemporary,with livemusicplayedeverynightof theweek,thislocaleisalivelyspotforyournighttimeentertainment.

t r a v e l

Louisiana’s Outback:ArT & SOUL FOOD iN LAKE CHArLES

Pintail Wildlife Drive


Louisiana’s Outback:ArT & SOUL FOOD iN LAKE CHArLES

Le Truffe Sauvage 815 Bayou Pines West 337 439-8364

Opened in October 1998 by Chef Mohamed andArthur Durham, this restaurant is a must visit forthose who appreciate fine dining at its best. You can expect freshlyprepareddishes,madeonlywith thefinest ingredients, along with friendly and professional service.

Our own seven-course wine dinner began withtantalizinghorsd’oeuvresservedwithN.V.CharlesHeidsieck, Brut Reserve, the ambassador ofchampagne in the U.S. and the first introduced in Louisiana.TherefollowedColossalLumpCrabmeatwith Potato Gnocchi leek and vermouth, shavedParmigianoReggianothatwasaccompaniedwitha2006 Macon-Verze, Domaines Leflaive. A fabulous Pan seared natural sea scallop over spanakopita,lemon vinaigrette, micro greens and tomato tartarthat was paired with an elegant 2007 Sancerre,Michele Redd that rewarded our palate with arefreshingly clean and lingering finish. An exquisite Partridge and black currant half moon ravioli truffled oxtailconsomméwascoupledwitha2004Amaronedella Valpolicella, Fabiano, while the Pan RoastedRedSnapperwrappedinCrispyPotatowithbraisedleek and petite syrah sauce married wonderfullywith a spicy yet mellow 2006 Crozes Hermitage,

Philippe&VincentJaboulet.AmarvellouscreationofSouth TexasAntelope Loin with pomme croquette,asparagustips,celeryrootaugratin,roastedshallotbordelaise was all the more relished with a glassof the iconicAustralianshirazwine,1996Penfold’sGrange, Southern Australia. A goat cheese tartwithbabyarugula, spinach, herbedcracker,walnutvinaigrettewassavouredwith thehighlyacidicandverydry2006Riesling,RobertWeil,Rheingau.WesomehowmaderoomforadecadentdessertofTripleChocolateHazelnutCakewithpassionfruitBavarian,andcaramelsauce toppedoffwithaglassof1995VintagePort,Croft,QuintadaRoeda.

Note:therestaurantishappytoaccommodateanyvegetarian or vegan requests with Chef’s creation.Formore information,gotowww.thewildtruffle.com.

Hackett’s Cajun Kitchen5614 Gerstner Memorial Dr. 337 905-3013For a unique experience, and to get your fill of Boudin, smoked sausages and meats, go to thismomandpopshopthat issoverypopularwiththelocals. You can even take home specialty items(soldbythebag,gallonorpound)suchasHackett’sseasoning, deer sausages, cracklins, hog cheeseand lard, and varying cuts of beef. The menuchanges daily, so you can visit as often as you like! www.hackettscajunkitchen.com.

Triple Chocolate Hazelnut Cakeat Le Truffe Sauvage restaurant

The popular Hackett’s Cajun Kitchen


rouge et Blanc Wine FestivalThis sold-out premier festival is heldeachyearon thegroundsofHistoric1911 City Hall in Lake Charles. Witha $75 admission tickets, guests canenjoy themultitudeof foodanddrinkitems on offer at this popular affair.Rick & Donna Richard, consideredthecity’sshakersandmovers,arekeyplayersinthiseventandotheractivitiesfor the area. They have undertakentheestablishmentofafarmer’smarketin Lake Calcasieu. As well, theypurchasedtheimpressivethree-storeyMarine National Bank which is beingrestored using much of the originalmaterial.Itiscurrentlybeingusedforspecialfunctionsandweddings,eventandotheractivitiesforthearea.Theyhaveundertakentheestablishmentofafarmer’smarket inLakeCalcasieu.Aswell,theypurchasedtheimpressivethree-storey Marine National Bankwhich is being restored using muchof theoriginalmaterial. It iscurrentlybeing used for special functions andweddings.

Brown’s Neighborhood Market10051 Gulf Hwy. 337 905-3013ThisGrandLakelandmark,alocally-owned grocery store, carries acompletestockoflocalproducts.MarkBrowngreeteduswithashrimpsaladand my first introduction to Boudin (a concoction of pork, liver and ricethat is then rolled in flour). Although superiorinquality,Louisiana’sshrimpindustry is suffering with the influx of the cheaper Chinese shrimp. Notonlycanyoupurchaseauthentic‘takeaway’ items, but you can find many ingredients, sauces and spices notavailable elsewhere. This is a funplaceforyoutobrowseandshopfortheunusual.

Philanthropists rick & Donna richard

Mark Brown shows off his creations

The grounds of the rouge et Blanc Wine Festival


Farmer’s rice MillRiceisavitalstapleinLouisianadishes,and we visited the only rice mill in LakeCharles.Operatingsince1917,thisfamily-runoperationprocesses24,000hundred-weight long-grain rice strictly destinedto export markets such as Mexico, theCaribbeanandmiddleeasterncountries.The U.S. accounts for only 1.5% of theworld’s rice production, of which 51% ofthatwhichisgrownisexported.Employingapproximately70employees,thecompanycanmillinonedaywhatfarmersgrowon400 acres! The green concept is alive andwell at thismill, applying little if anypesticidesorinsecticidestothecrop.Aswell,theyusethehulltoproducealternateenergythatrunstheco-generator.Riceisthegrainleastsusceptibletothevagariesof the weather, such as hurricanes andwinds. There isnoshelf life tospeakofforrice,althoughthefresherthebetter.

Seafood Palace2218 Enterprise Blvd. 337 433-9293An accomplished caterer, Chef ScottLandry, now gives lessons on makingRoux and has given demonstrations(performanceisabetterwordtodescribeit)in40statesandsevenforeigncountries.His secret is the use of the “Trinity ofIngredients”: celery, bell pepper, onion.WhiletheCreoleStyleGumboisthickenedwithokra,theCajunstyleisthickenedwithRoux. At the Seafood Palace one canchoosefromBoudintopistolettesofcrab/shrimp/crawfish, crab claws, Po-Boy, and of course the gumbo along with varioussalads. We ordered different items andproceeded to tasteeverything fromeachother’splate.Isthereanyotherway?

rice – the process

Chef Scott Landry

A platter of goodies to strike your fancy

Delicious Donuts – World Famous Mardi Gras King Cake 2283 Country Club Road 337 479-2986King Cakes are eaten by everyone in thearea, regardless of religion. The cake’soval/round shape depicts the circle of lifeanddecorationsincorporatetheMardiGrascolours of purple, yellow and green. Wedecoratedourveryowncake,withthehelpoftheownerofDeliciousDonuts.Thecakeweighsbetween4-6pounds(enoughtofeeda class of 22 kids, unlike the store-boughtvariety that feeds eight) and costs around$20.00.Thecompanyhasbeeninbusinessfor16yearsand,aswellasmakingdonuts,producesbetween2,000-6,000cakeseachyearduringMardiGrasthatcanbeshippedworld wide. King Cakes can be ordered for specialoccasions throughout the year. Tradition has it that ifyougetthe‘babyinthecake’inyoursliceyouwillhavegoodluckfortherestoftheyear.So,watchoutforthebaby! www.deliciouskingcakes.com.

“Everything is different in Louisiana. Come as you are and leave different”

This slogan is indicative of what you can expect to experience in Lake Charles. Not only will you savour some magnificent dishes, but you will come in contact with the excitement of some of this state’s culture and traditions.

L’Auberge du Lac Casino resort777 Avenue L’Auberge 1-866-580-7444

The epitome of luxurious accommodations, this 26 storey casino resort provides discriminating travelers with all desired amenities, and then some. Located a mere two hours from Houston, it offers the finest hospitality along with Vegas-style gaming. Situated on 242 acres, the immaculate

L’Auberge du Lac Casino resort Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • ��

Cake fit for a king

grounds claim your attention and appeal to your senses. The heated pool and lazy river, that gives access to the swim-up bar where you can quench your thirst with a frozen cocktail, are ensconced in a tropical paradise setting. The adults-only pool provides a tranquil environment along with luxury cabanas and full bar service. A wide selection of dining options, including the Jack Daniel’s Bar r & Grill will satisfy your taste buds. in deference to your sweet tooth, try a tasty gelato or homemade pastries and gourmet coffees at Desserts. Looking for that special outfit, then for a complete shopping experience call in at the hotel’s stylish boutiques.

The Contraband Bayou Golf Club, designed by Tom Fazio, incorporates all the features of the natural Louisiana environment. Beverage cart service of sandwiches, cool drinks and snacks completes your experience on this par-71 championship 18-hole golf course.

This hotel is the perfect location from which to visit all points of interest.

www.ldlcasino.com 337 395-7777

imperial Calcasieu Museum204 West Sallier Street 337 439-3797

Established in 1963, the museum serves the five parishes of Allen, Beauregard, Calcasieu, Cameron and Jeff Davis originally known as the imperial Calcasieu region. As a leading educational and cultural resource for the community, the museum organizes activities that not only preserve the region’s unique history but also to exhibit and support the visual arts. included among the memorabilia is an authentic letter of marque given to a pirate by France’s King Louis XVi. With about 67 rotating exhibits each year, all items in the museum have been donated, a testament to its importance to the community and beyond. When leaving the museum, it is traditional to go across the street to Joe’s Party House to try their cupcakes…. a sweet way to end your visit! www.imperialcalcaseiumuseum.org.


150-year-old “Surprise” doll basket, made from pine straw and raffia - imperial Calcasieu Museum

Pool Area and meandering river

Creole Nature Trail All-American road This more than 180-mile route is home to birds, waterfowl and alligators. For a self-guided tour go to www.creolenaturetrail.org where you can obtain a driving map for your GPS, learn about a special section for children, and the wetland area that is perfect for walking. Controlled hunting of waterfowl and fishing is managed by the National Wildlife refuge, which was rebuilt in 2005 after Hurricane rita.


Vegetation en route

Tranquil vantage point at Visitor Centre

Cameron Prairie National Wildlife refugeWildlife such as geese, ducks, white-tail deer and other migratory species can be seen throughout the year along with nutria and alligators. Traditionally, thousands of ducks and geese fly to the marshes yearly. The Visitor Centre features exhibits and animated/talking mannequins that allow visitors to learn about the history and wildlife of Southwest Louisiana. There are 200,000 acres that are dedicated to bird watching, hiking, fishing, and hunting. Programmes, seminars and workshops are available throughout the year on a variety of topics. in order to visit the refuge, you must purchase a Wild Louisiana Stamp or a Louisiana basic fishing license, available anywhere hunting licenses are sold.

Mardi Gras Museum of imperial Calcasieu204 West Sallier (337) 439-3797 in this six-room museum, you can immerse yourself in the history of Mardi Gras and take in the 300 costumes, the largest costume display in the world. The costumes, paid by individuals and ranging in cost between $700 and $10,000, are on loan to the museum.

The displays highlight the history and personalities of the Mardi Gras, the Captain’s Den, and intricacies of costume designing and completion (including ballroom costumes), all of which can take three years in the making. The Captain writes the script, selects the music, and designs the costume. There is a royal Ball the night before Mardi Gras which is open to everyone to see the royal krewes. Tickets sold can vary in price according to level of participation.

Historic District TourFor an overview of Lake Charles and its surrounding areas, a bus tour is just the ticket. A. Bourdier, our guide, was a veritable encyclopedia as he shared his knowledge of and enthusiasm for this intriguing part of the country. North Beach, the only one in Lake Charles, lies west of the Mississippi river and became part of Louisiana in

Krewe of illusions, The Late Captain David O’Quinn 1819 (although not part of the 1803 Louisiana

Purchase). Known for its cattle and lumber, it was called “Prairie country” and at one time held an unsavory reputation. At one time, there numbered 29 major lumber mills and, in the 1800s, an advertising campaign proclaimed it the “New Garden of Eden” because of its virgin pine trees that extended for miles. The 300,000 acres quickly sported mere stumps after the trees were cut down but, luckily, are now reforested. Around 1.5 million acres in the Lake Charles area were bought by the Watkins family who hailed from the U.K. rice became the major crop.

Today, the 46 blocks of the Charpentier (Carpenter) District comprise 260 dwellings that were constructed between 1889 and 1910, most of which were destroyed by fire. Live oaks, planted on Arbor Day in 1915, are visible along the streets. Although at one time the bylaws allowed nothing more than 12 storey structures, now the Capital One building boasts 23.

The Boudin StoryA mixture of culinary traditions from Cajun, Germany and Creole blend together to create one of Southwestern Louisiana’s most delicious snacks, the boudin. Pronounced “boodan” or “boodeh”, it is a type of sausage made with varying amounts of pork meat, liver, rice, onions, parsley and dry seasonings. recipes and ingredients vary between boudin makers leaving consumers with a variety of styles to try such as Crawfish, Smoked and even Alligator boudin. A favourite among finger food lovers, boudin can be purchased at mom and pop meat markets and grocery stores throughout Southwest Louisiana along interstate 10 and Highway 90. Boudin is pre-cooked but should be thoroughly heated before serving. in addition to the experience of eating a boudin, meeting the boudin masters who work daily in their stores can be an interesting encounter for consumers, as they are happy to carry out a conversation about their product. www.visitlakecharles.org.


Boudin anyone?

Greeters and revelers


BLUE DUCK REMOULADE © 2006 Briant Smith

¼ c finely chopped celery¼ c finely chopped onion¼ c finely sliced green onions1 T minced garlic1 qt. (16 oz.) Hellman’s mayonnaise2 T Frank’s hot sauce1 T French’s yellow mustard1 T honey1 T lemon juice1 T Worcestershire sauce1 t salt1 t black pepper

Mince celery and onions in food processor. (Do not over-process until watery). Add to all other ingredients in bowl and mix well. Adjust seasoning with salt/pepper. Cover and refrigerate overnight for best flavor.

BLUE DUCK CREAMY MUSHROOM & OYSTER STEW © 2007 Briant Smith

1 ½ doz. Fresh oysters* - drained1/3 c flour1 bunch green onions, finely chopped½ can cream of mushroom soup2 T shallots, finely chopped½ stick butter2 C whole milk2 t fresh parsley, finely chopped2 t hot sauce Pernod or Herbsaint to taste Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste6 puffed pastry shells (or make your own) Parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 350°.

In saucepan, heat milk to almost simmering. Turn off heat.

Sauté onion and shallots in butter over medium head until soft. Add flour and cook for 3 to 4 minutes over very low heat, stirring constantly. Add warmed milk and whisk vigorously until completely combined. Heat until just simmering. Season with salt and pepper. Add soup and stir well. Add oysters and hot sauce and simmer until edges begin to curl. Stir in parsley and liqueur. Remove from heat.

Remove center top of pastries and carefully scoop out center, taking care not to cut all the way through. Heat in oven for 5 minutes.

Fill center of pastries with oysters and sauce. Replace caps and drizzle sauce over. Top with grated parmesan. Serve immediately.

•If oysters are large, cut into small (3/4”) pieces.

These Southwestern Louisiana recipes are kindly provided by Briant Smith, Lake Charles Louisiana

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&Wining Dining

Article and photos by Margot Ritchie

Tawse Winery – Another Super Star in the Niagara Wine RegionMorayTawse isasuccessfulentrepreneur fromBayStreetwhoco-foundedthelargestnon-bankmortgagelender,FirstNationalFinancialLP.Givenhispassionfor Burgundian wine, he decided to open a Niagarawinery focused on two cool climate varietals, PinotNoirandChardonnay,usingorganicandbiodynamictechniques to create ultra premium wines. Rankedthebestwinery inOntarioat the2009WineAccessCanadian WineAwards,Tawse Winery continues towinaccoladesforitshighqualitywines.

In 2001 Tawse purchased property on the gentleslopesoftheVinelandDoubleBenchontheNiagaraEscarpment. In 2005 he opened a state-of-the-artwinery surrounded by the Cherry Road Vineyard,whose 21 acres are subdivided into three blocks,

named after his children, Robyn, Carly and David.SomeoftheoldestRieslingvinesinNiagaraaregrownhere.TheyalsoownthenearbyHillsideWinery(nineacres)plustwoothersontheVinemountRidgeatthetop of the Niagara Escarpment -- the Quarry RoadWinery (43 acres, bought in 2004) and the TinternRoadWinery(sixacres).Aboutiquewinery,Tawse’stotalproductionapproximates10,000barrels.

TawserecruitedPaulPenderaswinemaker,agraduateoftheNiagaraCollegeWineryandViticultureprogramandspecialist inbiodynamicwinegrowing. Thiswasa major career change from Pender’s career as acarpenterforthepreviousdecade.

TawseandPenderledusthroughanextensivetastingand dinner this May at the Queen & Beaver PublicHouse in downtownToronto. Vinifera WineAgencyco-hostedthisevent.

Tawse Winery Photo credit Tawse

w i n e


Their Echos’lineissoldonlythroughlicencees,whilethe SketchesofNiagara’lineissoldattheretaillevel.As Pender, explained, they are very similar, and vinified inthesamestyle,withthesoledifferencebeingthateachwine line isdrawnfromtheirowndistinct tankandbarrel.

Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling 2009(10%;$17.95)ispalestrawincolour,withcitrusnotesof lemon and grapefruit, and appealing wet stonecharacters on the finish. Tawse Wismer Lakeview Vineyard Riesling 2008 (11% ; $22), made from15-year old vines, offers floral aromas accented by lemonzestwithagoodacidiccoretosupporttheoff-drycharacter.Tawse Carly’s Block Riesling 2008(10.5% ; $29.95) has great depth of flavours as the fruit came from 33-year old vines. Grapefruit andlemonnotesinterminglewithadelicaeminerality.

Tawse Sketches of Niagara Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 (13.0%; $17.95) has forward flavours of citrus, apple and pear, with a tropical undertone and astreakofbakingspices.Tawse Scetches of Niagara Chardonnay 2008(13.0%;$19.95)isanimpressivewine with a solid acidic backbone, sweet juicyflavours of green apple, pear, and hints of spice and oak. Tawse Chardonnay “Quarry Road Estate” Vinemount Ridge (13.0%; $34.95) is pale lemon,showingripepeach,appleandanelegantexpressionofoak,withsubtlebutterscotchandvanilla. Tawse Chardonnay “Robyn’s Block Estate Twenty Mile Bench Chardonnay 2007 (13.5%;$41.95) is a richbutterywine,withcedartracesunderpinningpearandapple flavours.

Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rose 2009 (12%;V1726543) is a blend of five varietals – 32% Merlot, 16%Syrah,12%CabernetSauvignon,31%CabernetFrancand9%PinotNoir.Strawberrycoloured,ithaslovely fresh fruit flavours of red currants, cherries, berriesandplums,withhintsofspice in theslightlycandiedpalate.

Tawse Grower’s Blend Pinot Noir 2007 (12.5%;$31.95)hasacompellingnoseofblackcherry,strawberryandraspberry,withsweetspicenotesandsubtleearthystreaks. Tawse Laidlaw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008(13.0%; $39.95) is their first ‘Laidlaw’ single vineyard PinotNoir.Mediumbodiedwithgentletannins,itshowrich, dark fruit flavours accented with coffee, cedar and smoke nuances. Tawse Lauritzen Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008 (13%;$44.95) is also their first Pinot Noir fromthisvineyard.Anintriguingwine,ithaslayersofcomplexity with sweet ripe cherry and blueberry flavours and traces of earth and anise in the long finish.

Fenadegas A9 Portuguese Wine Group

FenadegasAdegasCooperativasdePortugal,knownasthe‘A9’,wasformedsevenyearsagotopromote27 wineries representing over 15,000 producers.Theircombinedproductionaverages110millionlitresofwineperyearfrom22,000hectaresofvineyards,or 20% of Portgual’s total wine production. ThisA9 cooperative allows these typically small wineproducers to tap theexportmarket. TheystagedatastingthisJuneatToronto’sC5Lounge,withsevenoftheninecooperativesparticipating.

Vinho Verde is the largest wine region in Portugal,situatedatthenorthendofthecountry.Representingover5,000producers,theVercoopecooperativewasformed in 1964 to enhance the profile of the Vinho Verde wine on the export market. Vinho Verdegrapes are typically very green, lively and floral, with prominent peach flavours and low alcohol content. Its naturalhighaciditymakesthesewinesidealforfoodpairings with seafood or grassy, herbaceous foodssuchasasparagus,greenbeansorsalad.

Vercoope Via Latina Alvarinho 2008 (11.0%)is medium bodied with a lime hue. It offers floral aromas, with appealing lime and green appleflavours. Vervoope Via Latina Loureiro (11.0%)isan intensely aromatic wine, with lovely floral aromas andabrightgreencitruspalatewithhintsofalmond. Vercoope Via Latina Alvarinho (11.0%) is a fullbodied,assertivewinewithexcellentstructure.Subtlefloral aromas follow through with orange peel and citrus fruits in the persistent finish. Vercoope Terras Felgueiras (11.0%) comes from one of the oldestwine groups in the Vercoope region. Light bodiedwithabrightappearance, itoffersfruityaromasandflavours of citrus, green apple and pear, with a good acidicbackbone.

Douro, the region at the south east end of VinhoVerde,isthehomeofPortwinesandisfastbecomingrecognized for its high quality red wines. Threecooperativeswerepresentatthetasting–Adega de Favaios, Caves Santa Marta and Caves Vale do Rodo.

Adega De FavaiosisthelargestproducerofqualityMoscatel wines at three million litres per year,accountingfor33%ofPortugal’stotalproduction.Itrepresentsover500producers,with1,200hectaresofvineyardsintheDouroregion.Becausetheseareataltitudesof550to630metres,thecoolerclimatehelpspreservethefreshnessandperfumedaromasoftheMuscatgrapeduringthehotsummers.Moscatel


Favaios is the best known product in the region.Moscatel A.C. Favaios Reserve 2004 ( %) ismahogany coloured. Sweet and unctuous, it hasa forward nose of apricots, with tastes of orangeintermingled with raisin, almond and a nutty finish.

Caves Santa Marta is the largest wine co-operativeintheDouro,producing10%ofallthisregion’swines.Launchedin1959,itrepresentsover2,000producers.Caves Santa Marta Reserva Tinto 2005 (13.0%) isablendofTourigaFranca,TourigaNacionalandTintaRoriz thatwasaged forsixmonths inAmericanoak.Plumpurpleincolour,itisatannicwinestilldespiteitsage. Sweetappleandredberry fruitscomethroughinthiswineofmoderatelength.Caves Santa Marta Montes Pintados Tinto 2005 (13.0%) is made withthesamethreeindigenousvarietals,agedintwotypesofPortugueseoak.Mediumbodied,ithasupfrontfruitflavours of plum and dark berries, with soft tannins and cedarnotes. Caves Santa Marta Touriga Nacional Tinto 2008isa100%varietal.Fullbodied,withjuicyredfruitandspicynotes,ithasagoodacidiccore.Caves Santa Mart CSM 59 Tinto 2005 (14.0%) is a blendofTouriga Franca,Touriga Nacional andTintaRoriz.It has red currant flavours, with spice and nuances of chocolate, coffee, vanilla and cedar. Caves Santa Marta Rose 2009 ( %) is fruity,with raspberryandblackberrycharactersandgoodtannins.

ThethirdcooperativefromtheDouro,Caves Vale do Rodo ( %)waslaunchedin1950by25growersandmerged with two other cooperatives in the region in2004. It nowaccounts for 10%of theDourowines,producingamixof44%Portand56%Dourowines.Caves Vale do Rodo Cabeca de Burro Reserve Tinto 2008 is ruby red in colour,withplumcompoteand strawberry flavours, finishing with subtle vanilla andcedar.

FurthersouthistheDaoregion,wheretheredwinestypically resemble Burgundy rather than Bordeauxwines. They tend to be elegant, with softer tanninsrather than powerful and concentrated. Udaca is aco-operativestartedin1966thatrepresentsninewinecellars that produce 60% of the Dao wines. Udaca Touriga Nacional Red 2004 (%)isgarnetcoloured,withvioletscentsandcassischaracterstouchedwithspice and vanilla accents and refined tannins.

SouthoftheDouroonthewestcoastisthewineregionofLisboa, formerlyknownasEstremadura. NorthofLisbon, thewineregionspansroughly40kilometres.Adega Cooperativa Arruda Dos Vinhos, launchedin 1954, represents just over 1,000 producers with1,600 hectares of vineyards. Arruda dos Vinhos Extra-Madura Colheita Seleccionada Tinto 2006 isablendofSyrahandTourigaNacional. Fullbodied,withevolvedtanninsandgreatstructure,thisinky,juicywine has dark cherry and red fruit flavours, with spice undertones.

JusttothesouthoftheLisboaregionisthePeninsuladeSetubalregion.ThePegoescooperativewasformedin1958, takenoverduring thePortugueserevolutionof1974,butultimately regained its independence. Ithas1,200hectaresof sandysoiledvineyards,whichproduce roughly 75% red and 25% white wines in aMediterraneanclimate.Adega de Pegoes Tricnadeira Tinto 2008(13.5%)isa100%Trincadeiravarietalthatwasfermentedinstainlesssteelandthenoakaged.Upfront sweet cherry flavours, with spice and chocolate nuances come through in the lingering finish.

For further information, contact William Delgado [email protected]

Margot ritchie is a Toronto-based wine and food journalist and consultant. She has traveled through many of the wine-growing regions of North America, Europe and New Zealand. Her wine related activities include providing food catering to private functions and corporations, co-ordinating wine lists for restaurants and

putting together wine cellars for private clients.

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OceanWiseMost of us have a favourite fish or seafood that

is cooked in a certain way. Maybe for you, it’s cod and chips, or an exquisite morsel of bluefin tuna sashimi, or beluga caviar on toast points. But these days many of us realize that because we have not responsibly managed the supply of these fish, they are in danger of disappearing. We must learn to take a more responsible approach to what we eat and consider how our individual choices affect the world.

Few days go by between lectures in the media on the importance of going green or buying local and organic. But we do need to consider the s word. It’s not easy to play by the rules all the time, and when there’s so much doom and gloom regarding the state of our oceans, it seems that an individual choice to eat sustainably is like a splash in the ocean. But if we all pull together to make a difference, I think there is hope.

Excerpted with permission from The Ocean Wise Cookbook, Published by Whitecap Books 2010.

The

Cookbook


OceanWise ALbACORE TUNA NIçOISE SALADSaladeNiçoiseisadishtypicaloftheregionofNiceinSouthernFrance.Itsmostcommoningredientsaregarlic,anchovies,tomatoes,andgreenbeans.Inthisrecipeweaddsearedalbacoretuna,olivetapenade,nugget potatoes, and boiled quail’s eggs. Grilledsalmonormackerelcanbeusedinsteadoftuna,andhen’seggscanbesubstituted forquail’seggs.Thisdishislow-fatandhealthy,andcanbeeatenasalightdinnerorlunch.Serves4

note: White anchovies and caperberries can be found at reputable Italian grocers. If you cannot find caperberries, substitute capers. I prefer to use white anchovies for the tapenade; they are less salty than regular salt-cured anchovies, but you can use anchovy paste instead.

Dijon aioli3largeeggyolks2Tbsp(30mL)Dijonmustard1Tbsp(15mL)whitewinevinegar1clovegarlic,minced2cups(500mL)oliveoil1tsp(5mL)freshlemonjuice,ortotasteSalttotaste

Puttheeggyolks,Dijonmustard,whitewinevinegar,and minced garlic clove in a chilled, medium metalbowl. (The chilled bowl helps the yolk and oil toemulsify.) Whisk the yolk mixture until it doubles involume.Addtheoliveoilinaslow,steadystreamuntilit is fully incorporated and the mixture has emulsified into a mayonnaise. Season the aioli to taste withlemonjuiceandsalt.Refrigerateuntilreadytoserve.

Pistou2cups(500mL)basilleaves3clovesgarlic¼cup(60mL)oliveoil¼cup(60mL)gratedParmesancheeseFreshlemonjuicetotasteSaltandblackpeppertotaste

Setaside12ofthebasilleavesforthesalad.Poundtheremainderofthebasilandthethreegarlicclovestogetherinamortarandpestleorfoodprocessortomakeapaste.Transferthemixturetoamediumbowl.SlowlywhiskintheoliveoilandfoldintheParmesancheese.Season to tastewith lemon juice, salt,andpepper.

Niçoise salad 8quaileggs1Tbsp(15mL)oliveoil1lb(500g)albacoretunaloin,cutinto4equalpieces¼cup(60mL)choppedbasil½ cup (125 mL) Italian flat-leafparsleyleaves2cups(500mL)arugula

Cookthequaileggsinboilingwaterfor2minutesand20seconds,andthensubmergetheminanicebath.Peeloncetheyarecool.

Heattheoliveoilinalargefryingpanovermedium-highheat until just smoking.Sear the tunaonbothsides,1minuteperside.Tossthebasil,parsley,andarugulainamediummixingbowl.

To serve4cups(1L)smallgreenbeans,blanched12YukonGoldnuggetpotatoes,cooked12cherrytomatoes12caperberries,rinsed½cup(125mL)tapenade(seepage291)8 anchovy filletsKoshersaltFreshlygroundblackpepper2Tbsp(30mL)agedbalsamicvinegar

Divide thegreenbeans,potatoes, cherry tomatoes,and caperberries onto four chilled plates.Top themwiththeherbandarugulamix.Dollopthreequenellesoftapenade(usetwospoonstomoldthemixtureintoanoval),threepoolsoftheDijonaioli,andthreepoolsofthepistouaroundeachsalad.Topeachsaladwithapieceofsearedtuna,twoquaileggs,twoanchovyfillets, and the reserved basil leaves. Season with koshersalt,freshlygroundblackpepper,andadrizzleofbalsamicvinegar.

Pairing suggestion: Poplar Grove Pinot Gris(Okanagan Valley, bc). Tom Firth: Pillitteri EstatesPinotGrigio(Ont).

Chef: Don LetendreRestaurant: Elixir Bistro, Opus HotelType: tuna, anchoviesLocation: Vancouver, BC


This dish is a great example of how to incorporate different textures in larger fish. Here you have the firm and sweet gravlax, the tender and juicy raw part, and the crisp and intense-flavoured skin—each part complemented by the elements of the dressing and accompaniments. Serves 4

To cure the char20 oz (600 g) arctic char fillet, skin on3Tbsp(45mL)koshersalt3Tbsp(45mL)maplesugar(orbrownsugar)Zestof1lemon2 sprigs dill, finely chopped

Place the fillet skin side down on a plastic or stainless steel tray. Evenlysprinklethekoshersalt,maplesugar, lemonzest,anddill over the flesh. Cover the fish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1¼ hours. Gently rinse off the curing mixture and pat the fillet drywithpapertowel.Cutitintofourevenportionsandsetthemaside.(Refrigeratethemifnotplanningtoserveassoonasyouhavepreparedthehollandaise.)

Hollandaise sauce1cup(250mL)whitewine1cup(250mL)whitewinevinegar5shallots,sliced3largeeggyolks¹⁄³cup(80mL)whippingcreamSaltandpeppertotaste¹⁄³cup(80mL)extravirginoliveoil3dropsdilloil(optional)

Combine the wine, vinegar, and four-fifths of the sliced shallots inasmallsaucepanovermediumheat.Bringthemixturetoasimmerandreduceitbytwo-thirds.Coolandstrain.

Whiskthisshallotreduction,theeggyolks,cream,andapincheachofsaltandpeppertogetherinamediummetalbowl.Placethebowloverapotofboilingwaterandcontinuewhiskingthehollandaiseuntilitbeginstoformribbons.Slowlyaddtheextravirginoliveoil inasteadystream,and thenadd thedilloil (ifusing).Season thesauce to tastewithmoresalt andpepperif necessary. Chill the hollandaise in the refrigerator beforeserving.Checktomakesurethatthehollandaiseissetbeforeuse.PourthehollandaiseintoawhippingcanisterthatissetwithaCO2chargerandplacethecanisterinanicebath.(Alternatively,youmayserve thehollandaise justchilledbyspooning itonto theplate.WeprefertheCO2methodbecausemoreairlightensthehollandaise—it’snotasheavy.)Grilled fennel1largefennelbulb(reserveafewfrondsforgarnish)1Tbsp(15mL)oliveoilJuiceof1lemon

Finelyslicehalfthefennelandcuttheotherhalfintosmalldice.Reservethetrimmingsanddicedfennel.Preheatagrilltohighheat.Tosstheslicedfennelintheoliveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Grilltheslices,turningthemonceuntilgrillmarks

appear on them, a few minutes. Place the grilled fennel in asmallbowl,tossitwith1tsp(5mL)ofthelemonjuice,andaddmoreseasoningifnecessary.Reserveintherefrigerator.

To sear the fish2Tbsp(30mL)oliveoil

Heat theoliveoil in a large, non-stickpanovermedium-highheat. Place the char fillets in the pan, skin side down, and sear themuntiltheskinisgoldenbrownandcrisp,about4minutes.(You want the cooking to progress one-third of the way intothe fillet, giving you three textures of char: cooked, raw, and cured.)

Remove the fillets from the pan and place them skin side up on akitchenorpapertowel.Bacon-clam dressing2Tbsp(30mL)oliveoil1lb(500g)clams,scrubbed,(about12smalllittleneckclams)¼cup(60mL)whitewine2Tbsp(30mL)dryvermouth1¾oz(50g)bacon,cutintosmalldice2mediumtomatoes,peeled,seeded,anddiced3Tbsp(45mL)choppedchives

Heat1Tbsp(15mL)oftheoliveoilinamediumsaucepan.Addthe remainingslicedshallotand fennel trimmings.Sautéuntiltheshallotsaretranslucent.

Addtheclams,givethematoss,thenaddthewhitewineandvermouth.Placethelidonthepanandcooktheclams,shakingthemoccasionally,for2to3minutes,oruntiltheyopen.Pourthe clams into a fine-mesh sieve, reserve the liquid, then strain theclambroth throughacheesecloth.Discardanyunopenedclams.Heattheremaining1Tbsp(15mL)ofoliveoilinasmallfryingpan over medium heat.Add the bacon and diced fennel andcookuntilthefennelissoft.Add the reserved clam liquid, and reduce it by half.Add theclamsandsimmerthemgentlyuntiltheyarewarmedthrough.Add the tomatoes, chives, and remaining lemon juice, andseasonthesaucetotastewithsaltandpepper.

To serve

Setoutfourplates.Placeasmallamountofgrilledfenneljustoffthecentreofeachplate.Spoonanequalamountofchilledhollandaiseinthecentreoftheplateandsetapieceofsearedchar on top. Spoon the bacon-clam dressing over the fish, and garnishwithafewdropsofdilloilandfennelfronds.Pairingsuggestion:TomFirth:GranvilleIslandBreweryCypressHoneyLager,VinelandEstatesElevationChardonnay(Ont),orLaChablisiennePetitChablis(France).Chef: Warren GeraghtyType: arctic char, clamsRestaurant: West RestaurantLocation: Vancouver, bc


PAN-SEARED ARCTIC CHAR WITH GRILLED FENNEL COLESLAW AND HOLLANDAISE



This is an easy-to-prepare dish with full-bodied flavour. Barramundi belongs to the perch family and has exceptional nutritional value and exceptional taste—somewhere between sablefish, walleye, swordfish, and bass. At Goldfish we like to enhance barramundi’s natural flavours by simply steaming it with a few ingredients, letting the natural flavour of the fish to come through.

Steaming with ginger and scallions is a traditional Chinese way to prepare fish, something my mom taught me as a child. Remember to peel the ginger as the peel will add bitterness. Serve with steamed jasmine rice. Serves 4

special equipment : You will need a large bamboo steamer basket with a lid or two smaller ones (which you stack) with one lid. Two may work better if you need more room for all the fillets. The bamboo from the steamer baskets will add to the flavour.

Marinade½cup(125mL)sake¼cup(60mL)lightsoysauce1cup(125mL)coldwater3sprigsthyme½Thaibirdchili2 Tbsp (30 mL) finely sliced ginger (peeled)2 Tbsp (30 mL) finely sliced garlic

Inabowladdthesake,soysauce,andwater.Bruisethethymewithyourhandstoreleasethenaturaloils,andcrushthechiliwiththeheelofyourknife.Addthethyme,chili,ginger,andgarlic to thebowl.Mixwell.Forbestresultsletthemarinadesteepforatleastanhour before adding the fish.

To marinate and cook the fishFour 6 oz (175 g) barramundi fillets, preferably skin onSeasaltandfreshlygroundwhitepeppertotaste

Pat the fish dry with a paper towel. Place the fish intothemarinade,makingsureitisfullysubmerged.Marinatefor20minutes.Becarefulnottomarinatefortoo long as this will start to negatively affect the flavour andcolour.

Remove the fish from the marinade and pat dry once againwithpapertowel.Seasonwithseasaltandwhitepepper.

Oilthesteamerbasket,orspraywithnonstickspray.(Oragood trick is to line thebottomof thesteamerbasketwithlettuce,ifyouhaveit—icebergorromaineworks best.) In a pot or very large skillet add a sufficient amount of water for steaming. Place the fish in the basket, making sure that the fillets are not touching oneanother.

Cover the steamer baskets and steam for about 8minutes, or until the fish is firm but still moist inside.

To finish¼cup(60mL)juliennedgreenonion(cutgreenonioninto2-inch/5cmlengthsthenslicelengthwise)¼cup(60mL)juliennedfreshginger(peeled)½cup(125mL)vegetableoil4Tbsp(60mL)lightsoysauce

Prepare the rest of the ingredients while the fish is steaming—once the fish is cooked you will be serving itimmediately.

Transfer the fish onto serving dishes. Divide the green onionandgingerjulienneontop.Inasmallpotorfrypan,heattheoiluntilitbarelystartstosmoke.Beverycareful—if the oil gets too hot it will catch on fire. Pour an even amount of the oil on each piece of fish. The heat fromtheoilwillslightlycrispup thegingerandgreen onion. (I call this flashing with hot oil.)

To finish add 1 Tbsp (15 mL) of soy sauce on top of eachdish.

Pairing Suggestion: The solid flavours, good acidity, and fine balance of Pinot Noir really enhance barramundi and all the other flavours of this dish. Tom Firth: Spy ValleyPinotNoir(NewZealand)orMacMurrayRanchSonomaCoastPinotNoir(California).

Chef:WilliamTseRestaurant:Goldfish Pacific KitchenType:barramundiLocation:Vancouver,BC

STEAMED SAkE-MARINATED bARRAMUNDI WITH GINGER AND SCALLION JULIENNE

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Touring Niagara Wine Country

It’s always a great time to visit wine country inNiagara, Ontario. If you’ve not been out to thisworld-famous wine region in awhile, you’ll be

amazedathowit’sgrown.Therearenowmorethanseventy wineries here, truly making it a showcaseforthecountry.Ontarioproducesawhoppingeighty-five percent of the wines in Canada, with the vastmajority coming from this delightful region. TouringNiagarawinecountrycanbeexhilarating,educational,entertaininganddownrightdelicious.

It was icewine that originally put Niagara on theworld map, but today many varieties and styles areimpressing wine lovers globally. Over the past twodecades, Niagara wines have regularly won awardsininternationalcompetitions.

If you like Chardonnay with its toasty, nutty, applycharacterthatworkssowellwithfish,seafood,pastain

creamsauce,andsoftripecheeses,checkoutHenryofPelham,NiagaraCollege,13thStreet,Hillebrand,PeninsulaRidge,ClossonChase,Vineland,ChateaudesCharmes,FlatRockCellars,DeSousa,MountainRoad, Strewn or Mike Weir wineries for decentexamples.

Maybe Riesling is your passion. Floral, fruity, andcrisp, dry versions are great companions to fish,shellfish and veal, so give those fromThirty Bench,ChateaudesCharmes,CaveSpringCellars,Tawse,RosewoodEstatesandVinelandEstatesago.SweetselectionslikeicewinefromJacksonTriggs,Inniskillin,ChateaudesCharmes,HenryofPelham,andRoyaldeMariaadoredessertsandveinycheeses.

Gewurztraminer lovers won’t go wrong with thosefromTawse,RosewoodEstates,FieldingEstateandPillitteri.Aromaticandspicy,itdoeswondersforThai

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Article by Edward Finstein


andIndiandishes,foiegras,orsmokedfoods.

Did I hear Sauvignon Blanc mentioned?This crisp,herbaceous,gooseberry-drivenvinoisagreataperitifand is divine with goat cheese, vegetable dishes,or fish and poultry seasoned with herbs.Creekside,ChateaudesCharmes,PeninsulaRidge,andVinelandEstatesdoanadmirablejob.

Vidal Blanc is an interesting hybrid. Easy drinking,fruity,floralandcrisp,itshinesasIcewinefromReif,Birchwood,VinelandEstates,WillowHeights,PellerEstates, Inniskillin,WayneGretzkyEstates,Strewn,Mountain Road, Dan Aykroyd and Konzelmann.Sheer magic with paté, fruits, desserts and veinycheeses!

Redwineaficionados,rejoice.FollowersofCabernetSauvignon, with its black currant, cedary, tobacco,herbaceousnotesandaffinitytogrilledorroastedredmeatsandmaturehardcheeses,willdigthosefromCreekside Estate, Pillitteri, Chateau des Charmes,Magnotta,Kacaba,Hillebrand andSouthbrook. Noproblem if its cousin Cabernet Franc is your thing.Its herbaceous, black raspberried, violet soul thatmeshessowellwithgrilledorroasted,herb-encrustedred meats, stews, vegetables and medium-agedcheeseswilldelightwithsamplesfromPeleeIsland,Inniskillin,Tawse,Colio,LaileyVineyardandVinelandEstates.

If Merlot tickles your fancy, look no further thanHernderEstates,Creekside,Colio,PellerorPillitteriforselections fullofsilky,plummy, red/blackberriesthat do justice to roasts, stews, casseroles andmediumcheeses.

GetagoodhandleonfinickyPinotNoirfromLeClosJordanne, Tawse, Coyote’s Run, Cave Spring andHenryofPelham.Elegant,raspberried,violet-likeandearthy, they’re engaging with beef, venison, gamebirds,duck,stewsandmediumcheeses.

Juicy, fruity, cherried, easy-drinking Gamay comesto life from 13th Street, Malavoire, Peller Estatesand Marynissen. Great with burgers, pizza, grilledsausages, sandwiches and medium cheeses!

Spicy, leathery, earthy, blackberried Syrah/Shiraz,which is superb with game, spicy dishes and hard,mature cheeses, wows from Creekside Estate,

Fielding Estate, Coyote’s Run, Stonechurch andJacksonTriggs.

The hybrid Baco Noir, with its smoky, blackberried,herbaceous nuances from such producers asLakeview Cellars and Henry of Pelham, rules withbarbecued fare, smoked meats, pizza and hardercheeses.

Bordeaux-styleredblendswiththeirtobacco-ladendarkfruitandfirmstructuredazzlefromReif,ThirtyBench,Hillebrand, Henry of Pelham, Southbrook, Vineland,Creekside,Magnotta,WayneGretzkyEstates,PeleeIsland and 13th Street. A steak’s best friend!

Off the wall Icewine made from red vatrietals likeCabernetSauvignon,CabernetFrancandShirazaremagnificent from Pillitteri, Chateau des Charmes,RiverviewCellarsEstateandJackson-Triggs.

Even versatile rosé, with its floral, berry demeanor,and affinity to poultry and fish, delivers fromCreekside,Malivoire,PeninsulaRidge,ChateaudesCharmes,LegendsEstates,PellerEstatesandHenryofPelham.

Finally,nose-tickling,toasty,crispbubblyfromHenryofPelham,CaveSpringCellars,HillebrandEstates,Maleta Estate and Chateau des Charmes comesthrough,especiallyasanaperitiforwithfish,poultry,sushiandsoftyoungcheeses.

All this mention of food in wine country needn’tworry you as many of the wineries have fantasticrestaurantsontheirpremises.Theyserveupculinarydelights utilizing fresh, local ingredients, theperfectaccompaniment to the localwine.On theTwentyatCave Spring Cellars is fabulous under the watchfuleyeofChefKevinManiaci.ChefFrankDodddishesoutsumptuousfareatHillebrand’sWineryRestaurant.PellerEstates’WineryRestaurantisgreat,helmedbyChefJasonParsons.Sitouton therestaurantdeckoverlooking the vineyard at Vineland Estates andenjoy Chef Jan Willem Stulp’s awesome culinarycreations. You won’t be disappointed dining at theCoachHouseCaféatHenryofPelhamunderChefErikPeacock’sgastronomicvision.Enjoyadeliciousmeal at the ambient Kitchen House of PeninsulaRidge.IndulgeinthefinepresentationsofChefJoshMinoratWindowsonRockwayGlen.PartakeofChefAlainLevesque’sFrenchProvencal-inspiredcuisine

Touring Niagara Wine Country


atTerroirLaCachetteatStrewnWineryorexperiencetheever-popular foodofNiagaraCollege’sCulinaryInstitute Dining Room. Other wineries, includingAngel’s Gate, Creekside Estate, EastDell Estates,FeatherstoneEstate,HarvestEstate,HernderEstate,PuddicombeEstateFarmsandRidgepoint,alsoofferdiningopportunities.

As for special events taking place at the wineries,the calendar is endless. From winemaker dinners,cooking classes and tastings to vineyard tours,concertsand festivals,you’llhavenoproblemfillingyour schedule. In fact, your hardest task will bedecidingwhichtodo.

YoumightlovetouringNiagarawinecountrysomuchyou’ll want to stay over and continue on. Severalwineries offer on-site lodging. Inn on theTwenty atCaveSpringCellarsinJordanisabeautifullyrestoredturn-of-the-century facility. You could stay in one ofthequaintroomsattheRiverbendInnandVineyard.Youmightalsotrythebed-and-breakfastcottageorestate guesthouse at Vineland Estates. Alternately,thereisaplethoraofhotels,vintageinnsandbedandbreakfastsintheareathatwillfiteverybudget.

There’sneverbeenafinertimetodiscoverthisbitofvinousheavenrighthereinourownbackyard.Makea day of it, spend several or even holiday here! With theeconomystillnotwhereitshouldbe,vacationingwithinourowncountrymakesalotofsense.SeewhyNiagaraisoneofthehottestwinegrowingregionsintheNewWorld.Youwon’tbedisappointed.

Planning Your Tour

Herearesomegoldenrulesformakingtheabsolutemostoutof thisouting,especiallywhen itcomes towinetasting.Firstandforemost,planahead.Choosethreeor fourwineriesadaythatarerelativelyclosetogether so you don’t have to travel excessivelybetween them.Pick a few smaller ones and a fewlarger ones just for variety.Make sureoneof themhas a restaurant on site so you can dine therewithouthavingtolookaroundforsomewheretoeat.Bringwaterwithyouandstaywell lubricated.Avoidwearingperfumesorcolognessoasnottointerferewiththewines’aromatics.Weardarkclothesincaseyou spill something on yourself. Experiment withdifferentwinestyles andvarieties togetabroaderperspective.Askquestions–wineryfolklovetochatabouttheirwines.Takelotsofbreaksandnibbleoften.Most importantly,ateachwinery, locate thenearestspittoonandremember tospit,don’tswallow. Ifyouwant to indulge, make sure you have a designateddriver,andknowwhentocallitquits.

For general information on the wines and wineriesof Niagara, go to www.winesofontario.org. Forguided tours, check out www.niagarawineryguide.com/niagara-winery-tours-2.shtml.Forplacestostayin Niagara wine country, try www.tourismniagara.com, www.vintage-hotels.com (vintage inns) andwww.niagarabbguide.com(bedandbreakfasts).

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Putahalfquartofwaterintoa1quartpotandbringtoaboil.Cutasparagusabout4inchesfromthetop.Setasideuntilyougettothestepwhenyouaddthelemonjuice,tomato,andbutter.(Pleasereadbelow).Whenyougettothisstep,addtheasparagustotheboilingwater.

Take each piece of chicken and butterfly it into two pieces. Salt, pepper, and sprinkle flour on both sides ofallfourpiecesofchicken.Put1Tbls.oliveoilinaheated sautépanandadd the chickenonmediumhighheat.Whentheouteredgesofthechickenstartto cook and turn white (3-4 minutes) flip chicken and sautéotherside(3-4min.)Removefrompanbutreturnpanto themediumhighheat Addgarlicandsautébutdonotletitbrown.Addchickenstockandreducebyhalf.Addthelemonjuice,tomatoandbutter.Stiruntil the butter has emulsified into the sauce.

Arrangethepotatoesjustabovethemiddleofeachplateoverlappingthemandarchingthemlikeahalfcircle. Place the asparagus over the potatoes thenarrangethechickenovertheasparagus.Spoonthesauceonthechickenandtowardsthebottomoftheplate.

Yourgoalistohaveanicepresentationatthecenterof the plate - fanned potatoes, nestled asparagus,arranged chicken and sauce- just like you are in arestaurant.

2eachchickenbreast(roughly6oz.each)

2Tbls.Flour

2Tbls.Oliveoil

4eachYukonGoldpotatoes

3eachlargefreshbasilleaves,julienned

1Tblsgratedparmesancheese

12eachAsparagus

8Tblschickenstock

1halflemon,juiced

1clovegarlic

1Italianplumtomato,smalldiced

1TblsButter

Saltandpeppertotaste

Pre-heatovento400degrees.

Put 2 quarts of water in a pot and bring to a boil.Meanwhile, slice potatoes into quarter-inch disks.Addpotatoestoboilingwaterandcookforabout12minutes.Removefromwater,placeinabowlandtosswith1Tbls.oliveoil,basil,cheese,saltandpepper.Sprayasheetpanoruseasilpatonasheetpanandplacepotatoesevenlyonit.Placeinovenfor12-14minutes. Remove from oven when golden brown.Reserveinawarmarea.

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Recipe for WAvY Tv Quick Chicken DinnerRecipe provided Executive Chef Eric Doarnberger, Swan Terrace Restaurant, at the Founders Inn and Spa in Virginia Beach.

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for the Connoisseur Lifestyle - elitewinefoodtravel.com · the bars give free food when you order a drink ... (“calamares”) Slow-cooked ... study showed that cans have half the