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8/17/2019 Flags_to_Fight_Under_Union_I.pdf
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Flags to Fight “Under” Part II – Union Flags
By Robert C Sweeney Jr
Traditionally and by regulation; all United States Regiments of Infantry had two colors: a National color (the Stars
and Stripes) and a Regimental color which bore the Coat of Arms of the United States or some other device. By military
definition, “colors” is meant to indicate the Nationals and Regimental flags carried by foot troops; “standards” is meant toindicate the National and Regimental flags of mounted troops (normally smaller in size than colors).
Although the Stars and Stripes was the most often carried Regimental Flag (usually with Regimental ID sewn into
the 4th red stripe); many Militia and State Regiments used a colorful variety of flags to identify their individual units.
Surprisingly, many States did not have or create a State Flag until after the conflict and those that did – bear little
resemblance to the flags flown by those States today. Regimental Flags could be made of various shades of blue
backgrounds with State, City or other Emblems applied. Others would be handmade by local organizations or regions which
sponsored the unit. Still others would be modified or historic flags used at the whim of the Regiment (a common tactic was
to reuse old flags or to add or remove stars from current or past National colors). Note: Some colors were sewn so that the
image sewn on the front is reversed on the rear – this is the pattern I have chosen to use. Others were made in pairs and
sewn so that the images are the same from either viewing.
OK, so I would like to make my battlefield more colorful, my Regiments easier to identify and separate from the
masses and to do so at the least cost possible. So after much research (and some minor creativity) – I have found some
flags to share with my JRIII breathern. Most of these images came from the Internet. I tried to use publically available
sources such as State, Museum and Re-enactor sites. To my knowledge, none of these images are copyrighted nor bore a
request of acknowledgement. If I have erred, I humbly apologize. Further, some of the images have either been created
from scratch or are modified images using my poor skills – interpretations are my own and if in error – feel free not to use
them. Normally, I use a “two foot rule” – if it looks good at two feet or further – it’s good enough for my gaming purposes. I
have presented the flags so that they may be “cut out” and used with 15mm miniatures and the flag on the left side is most
often the “inverted mirror” of the image on the right.
National Colors
The 33 Star Flags
Official 33 Star Flag adopted July
4, 1859
33 Star Ft Sumter Pattern
33 Star “Great Star” Pattern
33 Star “Diamond” Pattern
The 34 Star Flags
Official 34 Star Flag adopted July
4, 1861
34 Star 13/34 Variant
34 Star “Cluster” Pattern
34 Star “Great Star” Pattern –
spaces on hoist side intentional
34 Star “Phalanx” Pattern
The 35 Star Flags
Official 35 Star Flag adopted July
4, 1863
35 Star “Oval” Pattern
National Flag Variants
34 Star “Wheel” Pattern – used
mainly by NJ Regiments
34 Star “Six Row” Variant – carriedby some WVa Regiments
“Eagle” Regimental
8/17/2019 Flags_to_Fight_Under_Union_I.pdf
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Pennsylvania Regimental
New York Regimental
Vermont Regimental
Vermont Regimental
Burnside HQ
Army of Cumberland HQ
Other Flags
Army of the Tennessee HQ
Army of the Ohio HQ
Sherman HQ
Select Regimental Flags
“Republic” Style
3rd
US Colored Infantry
1st Michigan
5th Ohio
11th Pennsylvania
41st New York
69th Maryland
1st Irish
11th New York (Zouave)
12th Wisconsin
24th
US Colored Infantry
13th
Connecticut
21st Iowa
Suggested Use: Cut out Color as one piece (leave front and back images attached). Using a white glue (I
change Colors based on battles being fought – white glue makes this removal easy), wrap the color around the
pole treating the white area between the flags as a hoist. Color or paint the white portion (hoist) to match the
flagpole. Before the glue sets, add “waves” by bending and partially folding the Color so as to resemble wind
effects for a more realistic appearance. This is best done while the glue is still “wet” for best and long lasting
effect.