Fine Das Weinmagazin Extract from Fine 3/2009 · 2010. 11. 25. · and its renewal. Julius’ grandfather was Beethoven’s friend, physician and his biographer too. Franz Gerhard

1F I N E

C h â t e a u H a u t - B r i o n

Dom PérignonKlassifikation Napa Valley

25 Jahre Geheimrat »J«

Angelo GajaDomaine Ramonet

W e i n i m K l i m a w a n d e l : To r r e s

C h E v a l B l a N C

E u r o p E a N F I N E w I N E m a g a z I N E

3 / 2009 Deutschland € 15Österreich € 16,90

I ta l i e n € 18 ,50Schweiz chf 30,00

D e u t s c h l a n d · Ö s t e r r e i c h · S c h w e i z · S k a n d i n a v i e n · g r o s s b r i t a n n i e n · u S a · a u s t r a l i e n

D a S w E I N m a g a z I N

4 197772 515002 03

Extract from Fine 3/2009

42F I N E 3 / 2009

Text: TILL EHRLICH Photos: JOHANNES GRAU

≤ ≥

If books have their fate, wineglasses have theirs too. They patiently, with no regrets, hold everything one

pours into them, indifferent whether it is noble or com-mon, expensive or downright cheap wine. Wineglasses have to contact each pair of lips, regardless of whether they are the lips of a beautiful woman, a disappointed lover, a lost drunkard or the lips of a connoisseur. How-ever, the encounter between human and glass will spark stories, anecdotes, and later, legends … but the glasses remain silent and bare the traces of time.

Promise and Fulfilment:The past is in the future

43F I N E r h E I N g a u

Not only traces in the sand: Dr. Tom Drieseberg, the principal of the Wegeler house has powerfully

drawn into the gravel the lines of the most important emblem of the winery — the »J« stands

for his jubilee wine, the dry Rheingau Riesling “Geheimrat »J«”.

44F I N E 3 / 2009

»J«However, the shape and appearance of a glass is loquacious: the so

called Brahms glass — named after the German composer Johannes Brahms — holds the secret of a tradition in the winery of the Wegeler family in Oestrich like the grail. Rolf Wegeler happily shows a copy of the origi-nal glass to the interested visitor: it rises from an arched, green coloured cut foot that changes into a segmented baluster shaft with a facetted angular stem and a cone-shaped coppa, which is equally facetted. Its sides display an ornamental engraving — a stylised crown with embedded crossed foli-age. The crown does not seem the sublime, it has not enough space around it — presumably the original glass broke at the upper rim and has been pol-ished later, which resulted in varying proportions. The original grandeur of the artefact is indicated by the fact that the facets of the foot and the cop-pa mirror each other.

The legend surrounding the Brahms glass indicates that Rheingau Riesling was served to the composer, when he was a guest of Julius Wegeler in Koblenz, who was well known as a music loving vineyard owner and co proprietor of a champagne cellar and patron of the arts. The host offered the composer, who came to conduct one of his own works, the best Rüdesheim Riesling and says:

“This wine is among wines, what Brahms is among composers.” Brahms sup-posedly answered: “Then I would like a glass of Beethoven” And this suppos-edly took place on 25 February 1876.


»J«Beyond the anecdotal something quite essential reveals itself regarding the

tale of two characters: Johannes Brahms stands in the line of succession from Ludwig van Beethoven and Julius Wegeler was the successor to his grand-father Franz Gerhard Wegeler. The one who succeeds has the opportunity to renew and anticipate. He is the one who imposes a cure on the dying branch of tradition — in the sense of cura — so that a new branch can grow and blos-som. If this fails, the successor becomes a traditionalist, such as in his days the highly celebrated and esteemed Johannes Brahms. On the other side there is the Geheimrat, (privy councillor) Julius Wegeler who brought a new branch to life and made it bloom. And this is why his name was given to the wine

“Geheimrat J”, a dry Rheingau Riesling Spätlese, which over the last twenty-five years has become the symbol for the focus on sustainable wine tradition and its renewal.

Julius’ grandfather was Beethoven’s friend, physician and his biographer too. Franz Gerhard Wegeler was — like Beethoven — born in Bonn. Both

maintained close ties to the house of Breuning. Beethoven lived there after the death of his mother and was the piano teacher of the daughters of the house, of whom one, Eleonore, much later married Franz Gerhard. Wegeler was one of very few people, with whom Beethoven shared the knowledge about the early onset of his deafness.

Beethoven’s friend Franz Gerhard Wegeler (1765 to 1848) was a phy-sician with heart and soul and for him the nearly lifelong friendship with the great composer was a matter of heartfelt concern. His grandson Julius Wegeler (1836 to 1913) was however the first in his family who coura geously took up the fate of becoming a wine producer and let his professional call become part of a life that was filled with love for the arts and repose. Julius unified being wine merchant, producer of wine and sparkling wines, as well as being ambassador as president of the German wine growers association. At the same time he also was a patron, saw to artistic and musical projects of the city of Koblenz, he donated money to charitable institutions and the church. He did all this with verve, as if the holy king Heinrich II had been his inspiration.

The basis for his successful economic activities was the early union with the wine merchant Deinhard & Jordan, established in 1794. Julius began his career as an employee in their export department at a time, when Deinhard developed into a sparkling wine producer of some rank and expanded its business. Soon Wegeler became a member of the company’s management, he married into the Deinhard family, and together with his friend — and soon to become brother in law — Hasslacher — the took the firm over and established subsidiary companies worldwide. In 1882 Julius founded the still existing estate administration headquarters; he acquired premium sites in the Rheingau, in the Palatinate and the Moselle region. Julius Wegeler had recognised that it is essential for a successful wine business to emphasise wine production; which means that a first class wine producer on the one hand ought to have a range of modern wines that sell well and with which he makes money and gains publicity. On the other hand he needs high quality wines from excellent sites which are esteemed by connoisseurs and which put the fear of God into his competitors.

The century that followed was filled with the joy of being able to meet the past in the future and to make the glory of past times sparkle every now and then.

Not only a medallion on the neck of the bottle: with his image the winery celebrates and honours the privy councillor Julius Wegener, who courageously steered the fate of the house in a new direction.

46F I N E 3 / 2009


A hundred years later, in the early 1980s the Rheingau Riesling was in free fall. Much of the achievements that men such as Julius Wegeler once had built seemed lost: there was no culture of Riesling any more, the apprecia-tion of this wine was gone and with it the prices the wines had once reached. Indifferent cheap sweet wines dominated the market; the German wine laws from 1971 destroyed the previously reliable assurance of the value of wines depending on the site on which it grew. As of now the value of a wine was dependent on its sugar content, measured in Oechsle degrees and no longer on its class, its history and its vineyard site. The efforts of the era of tech-nology to turn something symbolic in a standard resulted in the production of Spätleses and Ausleses from vineyard sites of inferior quality, which bore the name of renowned sites. Small wines sported famous names. Imposture squandered in only a few short years the reputation of Rieslings all over the world. A new dilemma: was the Riesling a trivial thirst quencher that could be made more zappy by adding soda, or was one prepared to think of one-self as something different? Referring to the latter would mean: scaling back ones greed, respecting the wine so that it is allowed to differ from year to year.

Rolf Wegeler, grandnephew of the privy councillor, was at that time responsible for the Deinhard company and the Wegeler vineyards. He and his estate manager Norbert Holderrieth belonged to that generation under which German viticulture saw its most severe departure from tradition and lost its most substantial legacy, its appreciation within only a few years and therefore had got in a precarious situation. The merit of Holderrieth and Wegeler is having become aware of the responsibility and tried to find a solu-tion. Norbert Holderrieth found the solution in 1983 with the ‘Geheimrat J’. He came to the Wegeler estate administration in Oestrich as a young man and from then has first hand experience of the old Rheingau Riesling era. Holderrieth’s first vintage, the 1959 Riesling Kabinett, still has a powerful structure, resolute taste and style. However, his masterpiece was to become the ‘Geheimrat J’, which the now seventy year old Holderrieth simply calls the ‘Jot’ [because the letter ‘J’ is pronounced ‘yot’ in German].

Occasionally this dry Rheingau Spätlese is called a Branded Wine. At first this is misleading, since the classification Markenwein (literally branded wine) is usually used for standardised industrial wines which are no wines in a literal agri-cultural sense, but drinks that are produced according to a certain technological understanding. They all taste the same independent from year or origin. However, the ‘Jot’ is a brand and stands on its own, like the Grand Cru of the Champagne or the Bordeaux, who are supposed to ful-fil the assurance of value, which reveals itself in the unchangeability of the irreplaceable expression.

The first vintage of the ‘Geheimrat’; was harvested in 1983. It was not until 1985 that the wine was sold and that was in itself radical at the time then; a dry Riesling with expression and style. Not an imposter, but a wine that keeps its promises. However, the ‘Jot’ didn’t come out of the blue. Its success was built on the historical — in the sense that there is a great feeling of the power of historical events in the Wegeler family, a sense that recognis-es tradition as a burden as well as an opportunity. The crisis in German viti-culture in the 80s opened up the opportunity to realise that something had come to an end that was no longer sustainable. In every crisis separate paths are found. The one who wants to persist has to have something up his sleeve: the insight into the essence of the past that will prevail into the future. The very German Riesling culture, which flourished at the end of the late 19th century and shone well into the past century, perished not least because it was not appreciated in its own country any more and was no longer main-tained and cared for. Having arrived at such a disillusioned perception one was able to renew a tradition in the present time, without merely renovat-ing, restoring or preserving it.

Rolf Wegeler did not wish to produce modern wines, since they can be copied. Wegeler attempted to go back to an essential characteristic of the dry Riesling: a mere shadow of residual sweetness balances the fine complex acidity of the Riesling — within the realm of dryness. Therefore the Ries-ling’s delicate fragrance and structure can unfold even after centuries and with it, it ascertains the highest appreciation to the Rheingau soil in this cli-mate well beyond borders.

Not only vintage crystal glass: Johannes Brahms raised the original glass to the privy councillor Julius Wegener – although not with the “Geheimrat J” Riesling. The prerequi-site of this particular wine was the birth of the cellar master Norbert Holderrieth.

48F I N E 3 / 2009

The Frankfurt tasting of the 25 vintages of the ‘Gemeinrat J’ shows that each year has its own character. However, there is one commonality, which yet is not the result of standardised levelling down. It is the identity of the wine, which is determined by the uniqueness of the life of a vintage as a sequence of events. The continuity of obstinacy displays itself in the tast-ing of these vintages.

The ‘Jot’ is composed from one variety, Riesling, however not only from one vineyard site, but from Riesling from the best Rheingau sites, such as Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg, Berg Roseneck and Berg Rottland or Geisen-heimer Rothenberg and Oestricher Lenchen. The wines are fermented and vinified separately according to sites; they are being blended in the spring that follows the harvest and composed to become the ‘Geheimrat J’. It consists mainly of the three elements that are characteristic for its sites’ soils; they determine this Riesling in terms of structure and taste: slate, quartzite and loamy loess. The Ruedesheim slopes are characterised by slate with a high content in iron oxide, the Geisenheim sites contain mainly Taunus quartz-ite, both of which contribute to a stony character which creates the impres-sion of sturdiness. The Oestrich sites by contrast, with their fertile loess and loam soils give a mellow and voluptuous, though entirely charming note to this Riesling. The ‘J’ is not merely mineral and steel; there is also something floral and a conciliatory resonance in this wine.

The composition of a vineyard blend is never the same; it varies accord-ing to the vintage. The art of blending never follows the concept of same-ness, but the shaping of the particular. The Chateau-principle was not preva-lent in Germany then, but Holderrieth let himself be inspired by the French art of winemaking according to which winemakers in the Champagne or in the Bordeaux compose from the best grapes of their best sites a taste which is as characteristic for the site as for the producer. Despite the differences from year to year it is possible to shape a style of taste which can be recog-nised. The novelty with regards to the ‘J’ was that Holderrieth produced in the very same way a dry Riesling that has — the Frankfurt Tasting proved it — a lively taste image, that unfolds in every vintage is individual expres-sion and furthermore possesses its recognisable style: the hallmarks of its master. Also a wine can, like a glass, unfold an expression which is being developed, tended and passed on in the tradition of several generations. The fact that there is only one single bottling, in late summer, contributes to the air of decidedness of the ‘J’. The current fashion of several bottling of one wine always results in one part of the wine being bottled and sold too early. This practice doesn’t serve the quality of the wine and therefore the house of Wegeler refrains from such doing.

There is a similarity between wine and music, the latter being an art within time par excellence: it is prescribed in notes and bars, it is performed however in the rhythm and the interpretation by the artist there and then. The music not unlike the wine lives on in the aficionado as a reverberation after the last tone has disappeared.

In the cool 80s Holderrieth usually had the ‘J’ harvested very late, mostly in November. 1985, 1987 and 1991 were difficult vintages; there were no ‘Jots’ bottled, since the quality was not good enough. Since 1997 the general change in weather patterns shows its influence on the ripening of the grapes in the Rheingau. One has attuned to this and picks the grapes early in October. Even in colder years, when the acidity levels of the Riesling is higher, one never conducts a forced malolactic fermentation. The vinification takes place in the large barrel typical for this area containing 2400 litres. In vintages with fresh acidity the acidity mellows in doing so in a natural way.

In 1998 Rolf Wegeler’s eldest daughter Anja and her husband Dr. Tom Drieseberg decided to carry the baton of family history. Both had enjoyed previous successful careers in private enterprises. Tom Drieseberg had been head of marketing for Electrolux. However, only few months previously the Wegeler family had sold the sparkling wine company Deinhard to the Henkell firm — a turning point in the history of the family business. The increasing industrialised process of sparkling wine production and the pricing pressure of large business groups did not comply anymore with the ethos of a family firm. The most valuable wineries were taken out and remained in the

Not only one cellar master: Michael Burgdorf is the third cellar master in twenty-five years to bear the responsibility for the Rheingau ‘Jot’. It is all very well for his young colleague Andreas Holderrieth and his boss Tom Drieseberg to laugh.


possession of the Wegeler family. The brand now was the ‘Geheimrat J’, even more it became the top seller of the winery. After the loss of Deinhard, Tom Drieseberg had to give sales a completely new structure and had to rebuild it from scratch. The following years were tough, since the vineyard estates had been linked to Deinhard for a hundred-and-twenty years. However the change was successful and the alteration of generations turned out well.

The trace that Norbert Holderrieth had found is pursued today by Michael Burgdorf, the estate manager. He came to Oestrich from the exclu-sive Rhine-Hesse winery Heyl zu Herrnsheim and can meanwhile display an impressive collection of vintages in the Wegeler house. As executive director of the Wegeler estate management Tom Drieseberg runs the wineries in the Rheingau and in the Moselle valley with sound judgement and vision. One can feel how fruitful the experience is he has had, outside the often over self-referential wine world. “Freedom of ideas and the mind”, Drieseberg says, “that’s what we have to allow ourselves, because one can’t build cre-atively under economic pressure.” The ‘Jot’”, he continues, “will be around

in twenty five years time”. And Rolf Wegeler, the senior on the estate, can allow the younger generation free reign in equanimity and focus on his var-ious commitments in the cultural life of the city of Koblenz.

Treasured characteristic wines with significance don’t appear out of the blue. They need a location where they can evolve, where they are cared for and passed on. Tradition has always to be questioned, so that it can renew itself. It is a project that develops competitively and within several gener-ations. In this process something can form itself that can be called — with good conscience — a sophisticated wine culture. However, the span of one generation is enough to destroy wine tradition. 1983, at a time when good ideas were urgently needed, Rolf Wegeler remembered the ethos of his pre-decessor Julius Wegeler. For the generation of Tom Drieseberg that carries the responsibility today it is, however, not enough to be seen as the future of a branch that started to grow a hundred years ago. One wishes to make a new branch flower, one that grows from the rootstock — not modern, but contemporary, because the past is in the future. >

50F I N E 3 / 2009

1983 Geheimrat »J« Riesling 91 P

Glowing dark gold with beautiful reflexes. The fragrance swings between ripe honey, nutty notes and smoky ones. Has levity, though resolute. The palate senses the transparent body; its delicate fruitiness covered by cool silk. The wine shows its liveliness as well as the finiteness of having gracefully come to age and it is beautifully bare of noisy excitement.


Medium gold with brilliant shine. A very present bouquet with intense yellow fruit notes and inviting honey notes. On the palate dominates a sensitive fresh acidity; this gives it a cool and polished feeling, though also somehow frail, since the wine has arrived at some age, something that seems to surprise itself.


Consistent golden yellow. The bouquet somehow ambivalent: the strong freshness doesn’t reach the fine honey notes. On the palate fine harmoni-ous ripe notes, though its old body is already frail which shows in the fact that the still very present freshness has nothing to match it.


Rich lemony yellow. On the nose sophisticated ripe intense yellow fruit aromas meeting a whiff of sponge. Salt, almost stone in the distance. On the palate this ‘Jot’ from the year of German unification presents itself with unconsumed freshness and supple body. Shows a sensory tension and a har-monious interplay of fruit and acidity. A wine still expressive with clear out-line and a long beautiful finish.


Radiant light golden colour; fragrance of yellow fruit aromas (mirabelles) and a volatile hint of wild herbs – an austere salty tone hovering above. On the palate this ‘Jot’ shows a mellow ripe fruit and a sappy acidity, which still is very muscular. It is full of grace and leaves an impression of fruity freshness.


Golden yellow with a fine shine. Voluptuous fragrance, though focused and with subtle honey tones and fresh notes. On the palate a glorious juiciness; lively, rich and firm. A classic beauty that still lasts.

25 years Geheimrat »J«Vertical Tasting 1983 – 2008* — May 19, 2009

FINE TAsTING

Organiser: Fine Das WeinmagazinLocation: King Kamehameha Suite, Frankfurt/Main, GermanyPresenter: Dr. Tom Drieseberg, Weingüter WegelerTester: Till Ehrlich

Guests: Alfred Biolek, Michael Burgdorf, Dr. Tom Drieseberg, Till Ehrlich, Ralf Frenzel, Angelo Gaja, Lucia Gaja, Norbert Holderrieth, Uwe Kauss, Petra Malethon, Prof. Dr. Gian Luca Mazzella, Thorsten Neumann, Pekka Nuikki, Hanka Paetow, Jan-Erik Paulson, Georg Plesser, Thom-as Schröder, Markku Vartiainen, Christian Volbracht, Rolf Wegeler, Anja Wegeler-Drieseberg, Volker Weicker, Andreas Weise



Rich lemony yellow; it effuses an intense yellow fruit aroma, austere fresh-ness and notes of etheral sweetness. On the palate there is in the centre a straight and resolute juiciness which is well balanced. The interplay of the various fruit notes has a fine structured effect and develops a firm density. The aftertaste is of medium length.


Light golden colour, interspersed with green. Immediately exuding a stern mineral fragrance, beautifully fresh and ripe fruit. On the palate deep and well proportioned. The acidity-sweetness interplay is subtly balanced. The acid appears demanding, though rounded. An expressive ‘Jot’, delicately polished.


Light coloured gold. Multilayered bouquet with resolutely fresh and ele-gant mineral tones. On the palate pleasing taste. Juicy, expressive and finely balanced. The fruit has preserved its subtle youthfulness. A delicate ‘Jot’, which is utterly balanced.


Pale yellow Golden Beryl with beautiful reflexes. On the nose a contained, slightly changeable fragrance with echoes of metal. On the palate juicy and impressive at first, later the sturdy fruit appears slightly undecided. Finish of medium length.


The colour of yellow topaz with green lustre. Noticeable mineral nose, dew fresh Mirabelle and a hint of minty sweetness. On the palate scarce ripe notes, but an astonishing youthfulness and density. Perfectly balanced between acidity and fruit. Beautifully harmonious with a fine finish.


A whitish yellow colour. A steely and fresh nose and in the background an exquisite aroma of yellow fruit. On the palate a dense fruitiness, inter-woven with fine structured acidity. Complex however transparent taste and a medium long finish.


Rich lemon colour. Aromatic bouquet with warm beguiling notes (macada-mia nuts, sponge cake, honey), but also a startling freshness. Intensity builds quickly on the palate; complex fruitiness chimes in with solid acidity. Dense, deep, though still charming.


The yellow of straw with greenish reflexes. Unobtrusive pronouncedly ripe fragrance with hints of honey, fennel and yellow fruit. On the palate steely and aromatic at the same time, whereas on the palate there is a dominant appetizing acidity. The full flavoured fruit keeps itself more in the back-ground, it isn’t fully balanced, which is noticeable in the finish.

2002 Geheimrat »J« Riesling 90P

The yellow of straw; on the nose austere notes, reminiscent of wet stones and wild herbs. On the palate a prominent delicious fruit; it unfolds to gether with the acidity a playful intensity on the palate. Long finish.

2003 Geheimrat »J« Riesling 91P

The colour of a light yellow topaz; expressive steely bouquet with ripe peach and mirabelle notes. The fruit aromas are also present on the palate; well bal-anced acidity. A wine with perfect balance, beautiful proportions and a long finish. It delights through and intense experience of taste.


The yellow colour of straw; on the nose subtle notes of minerals and fruity freshness. On the palate a juicy textures and an erotic playing of acidity and fruitiness. Beguiling and stylish. A slow and long lasting finish.


Shining light colour with beautiful reflexes. The nose of intense minerals, vibrant and with notes of honey. On the palate surprising intensity, in the centre a firm steely taste. Slightly dissonant proportions, though mouth-watering and juicy. Short finish.


Beryl colour with green-yellowish reflexes. Delicious flowery fragrance, rem-iniscent of elderflower, white peaches and also of sweet herbs. The palate is dominated by beguiling aromas. Everything is well balanced, whereas the acidity is enclosed by a noticeable whiff of sweet fruit. A harmonious medi-um long finish.


Bright green shiny glances. Generous fragrance with beguiling aromas of ripe limes and dew fresh peaches. On the palate a dominant erotic fruit, flowery and markedly aromatic. A charming freshness, rounded acidity is buffered by the fruit. Beautiful long finish.

2008 Geheimrat »J« Riesling (Tasting from the barrel)

Reticent nose, apricots, peach and lemon. Minerality on the palate with firm acidity, notes of grapefruit and stone fruit. Much body and opulence. In the finish some notes of yeast; very approachable, it indicates its potential. (U. K.)

* There were no 1984, 1987 and 1991 vintages made. The 1985 and 1988 vintages were not put up for the tasting.

Behind the noble front of the Frankfurt King Kamehameha Suite 23 wine friends met to celebrate the birthday of the Geheimrat »J«, in the midst was Rolf Wegeler — he looks back on the achievements of a fulfilled life.

52F I N E 3 / 2009 www. f i n e -m a g a z i n e s . d e

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C H E V A L � B L A N C

C h â t e a u H a u t - B r i o n

Dom Pérignon

Klassifikation Napa Valley25 Jahre Geheimrat »J«

Angelo GajaDomaine Ramonet

W e i n i m K l i m a w a n d e l : To r r e s

E U R O P E A N � F I N E � W I N E � M A G A Z I N E

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Fine Das Weinmagazin Extract from Fine 3/2009 · 2010. 11. 25. · and its renewal. Julius’ grandfather was Beethoven’s friend, physician and his biographer too. Franz Gerhard