FASH 15 textiles

special use fibers

special use fibers

have unique characteristics & produced in much smaller quantities

price per pound can be very high compared with majority of fibers discussed so far

sustainability and environmental impact is relatively low due to lower production rates

elastomeric fibers

• natural or synthetic polymer• can be stretched repeatedly • twice its length• returns back to original length

power stretch—ability of fiber or fabric to exhibit high retractive forces that mold, support or shape the bodyexamples: foundation garments, surgical-support garments, swimsuits, garters, belts, suspenders

comfort stretch—ability of a fiber to elongate slightly as body moves & recovers significantly once force is removed

elastomeric fibers—rubber

natural rubber is oldest elastomer & least expensive—latex collected from rubber tree

synthetic rubbers were first developed during WWII

both types:• large cross section• round fibers extruded• rectangular fibers cut from film • excellent elongation—500-600%• excellent recovery• low dye acceptance—covered with other yarn• replaced in many uses with spandex

elastomeric fibers—spandex

first manufactured elastic fiber—Lycra—introduced in 1958• superior to rubber in strength & durability• known as elastane in many other parts of world• filaments obtained by wet or solvent spinning• produced as monofilament (round) or fused multifilament

yarns (deniers of 40+)• delustered & usually white or gray• seldom used alone in fabrics• more resistant to degradation than rubber• uncomfortable for skin contact—very low absorbency• resistant to body oils, perspiration, lotions & cosmetics• grin-through—when fibers break and work through surface• uses?

elastomeric fibers—elastoester

introduced by Japanese textile firm Teijin—Rexe(tradename)

manufactured fiber composed of at least 50% aliphatic polether and 35% polyester

elongation of 600% & 80% elasticity at 200% elongation—slightly less than spandex

• washable—not damaged by alkalis• has superior strength retention when wet• superior in resistance to chlorine bleach• treated to increase dyeability• used in fashion outerwear & fitted interior textiles

elastomeric fibers—elasterell-p

an elastic bicomponent polyester with helical coil

• has good inherent stretch & excellent recovery• strong & durable with easy care & pleasing hand• can be more carefully engineered for specific uses—

active sportswear, leisure wear, underwear

elastomeric fibers—lastol

an elastic cross-linked copolymer olefin with low but specific crystallinity—95% ethylene

superior stretch—500%--and recovery compared to other olefin fibers

more chemically stable than other olefins & heat resistant

used in activewear & other easy care stretch apparel

fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance—aramidaromatic polyamide fiber (variant of nylon)1963—Nomex—firefighters’ & race car drivers’ suits1973—Kevlar—radial tires, body armor, brake linings

• exceptional strength, impact & abrasion resistance• fire resistant, maintains shape & form at high temps• can be wet- or dry-spun; round or dog-bone shaped• hollow fibers used to produce fresh water from sea water• difficult to dye—generally solution dyed• poor resistance to acids• investigated for use in bridges & elevated highway

support structures

fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance—glass

•incombustible textile fiber—does not burn•made of sand, silica & limestone combined with feldspar & boric acid•melted in large electric furnaces with holes in base of melting chamber; fibers go to winder which spins faster than fibers—stretches them

•first used commercially in the 1920s•especially suitable for end uses where the danger of fire is a problem—commercial draperies, ironing-board covers, space suits, filters, fire blankets

fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance—metal and metallic fibers

•gold & silver used since ancient times—aluminized plastic & nylon yarns are replacing gold and silver•used as decorative touch to apparel & interiorstwo production processes: •laminating—seals aluminum layer between film sheets•metalizing—vaporizes & deposits aluminum on film

•stainless steel fibers developed in 1960 for aerospace•produced in filament & staple•used in carpets to cut down on static electricity; also suitable for upholstery, blankets & work apparel

fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance—modacrylic

•modified acrylics first produced in US in 1949—first inherently flame-retardant synthetic fiber•dry-spun & stretched while hot•creamy white & produced in staple & tow•dog-bone or irregular shaped cross section•properties similar to acrylic•poor conductor of heat, tends to pill, low absorbency•used for fur-like fabrics, wigs, hairpieces, fleece-type pile fabrics, flame retardant interior textiles

fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance—novoloid

•first commercially produced in 1972•shows outstanding flame resistance—fibers carbonize•35% elasticity•good resistance to sunlight•used for protective apparel and fabrics, chemical filters, gaskets & packing materials•fierce competition from other specialty fibers is shrinking its market

fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance—PBI

•long chain aromatic polymer that is dry spun•difficult to dye—usually mass-pigmented•does not burn in air, melt or drip •very low shrinkage when exposed to flame•even when charred, PBI fabrics remain strong, supple, and intact•ideal for use in protective apparel for firefighters, astronauts, military personnel, fuel handlers, race car drivers, welders, foundry workers & hospital workers

fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance—sulfar

•long-chain synthetic polysulfide •produced by melt-spinning•excellent elasticity with low moisture regain•used in filtration fabrics, paper making felts, electrolysis membranes, high-performance membranes, rubber reinforcement, electrical insulation, firefighting suits•helps maintain environment—used in incinerator filters in plants that generate electricity by burning garbage

fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance—saran

•developed in 1940•raw material is melt-spun & stretched to orient molecules—perfectly round & smooth•off-white fiber with a slight yellowish tint•both filament & staple fibers produced•good weathering properties, chemical resistance, & stretch resistance, unusually tough & durable•used in seat covers, dolls’ hair & wigs, agricultural protective fabric, films & plastics•being replaced by other less expensive fibers

fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance—vinyon

•commercially produced in 1939—raw material dissolved in acetone & dry-spun•86% vinyl chloride & 14% vinyl acetate•white & somewhat translucent•irregular, round or dog-bone shaped cross section•very sensitive to heat—softens at 150 degrees; shrinks at 175 degrees•unaffected by moisture, chemically stable, resistant to insects, poor conductor of electricity, flame-retardant•used for wigs, flame-retardant Christmas trees, filter pads, fishing lines & nets, protective apparel

fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance—vinal

•no vinal fibers produced in US•smooth, slightly grainy appearance•U-shaped cross section•mass pigmentation used fro color fabric•imported for use in some protective apparel, fishing nets, filter fabrics, tarps, brush bristles

fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance—fluoropolymer

•95% of a long-chain polymer synthesized from aliphatic fluorocarbon monomers•used as coating for cookware—Teflon (PTFE)•Gore-Tex is a trade name for fabrics that have a thin microporous film of PTFE applied to fabric for use in outerwear

•wind & liquid/water resistant but water-vapor-permeable•can be dry-cleaned but needs to be rinsed well

•BlisterGuard is a sock with fluoropolymer in heel, pad & toes areas to reduce friction•used in hazmat protective apparel, filter fabrics, packing fabrics, gaskets, technical felts, electrical tape

fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance—carbon

•96% pure carbon•made from precursor fibers such as rayon•fibers heated to remove oxygen, nitrogen & hydrogen•exceptional heat resistance & does not ignite or melt•maintains full strength after prolonged exposure to temps of more than 200 degrees Celsius•has comfortable hand•used in protective apparel, to reinforce lightweight metal components of golf clubs & bicycle bodies, in aerospace uses, bone grafts, as substitute for asbestos

fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance—melamine

•available in white & dyeable forms•known for its heat stability, low flammability, resistance to solvents•cost is moderate•used in products that require resistance to high-temps and competes with meta-aramid, PBI, sulfar & polyimide because of lower cost•used in protective apparel, fiber-blocking fabric & filters

other special use fibers:polyimide (PI or PE)—used in filters for hot air or gas or corrosive liquids, in gaskets and seals, protective apparel, fire-block seating (layer between upholstery & padding to minimize flame spread)

polyphenylene benzobisoxazole (PBO)—used primarily as a reinforcing fiber in resins & for protective apparel

ceramic—used where high strength, high thermal structural stability, and stiffness are required

polylactic acid (PLA)—biodegradable; used in apparel, interior textiles as fiberfill, agricultural & landscaping applications, sanitary & medical products, filters, food packaging