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A Publication of WWD
Family MattersMichaeline DeJoria learned the lesson of taking care of people early on from her father,
John Paul Mitchell Systems founder John Paul DeJoria. It’s one that has stood her in good stead as she helps guide the company through times of crisis. For more,
see pages 10 and 11. PLUS, how mass retailers can better serve Black beauty shoppers. PHOTOGRAPH BY JOE SCHMELZER
ISSUE #16JUNE 19, 2020
Beauty Bulletin
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2
JUNE 19, 2020
THE BUZZ
Loewe opens their first New York City store on
79 Greene street.
DOUGLAS CEO RETURNS
¬ Premium German beauty retailer Douglas said Tuesday that its chief executive officer, Tina Müller, will resume her functions starting July 1.
On May 11, it announced that Müller was convalescing after emergency surgery, and that Vanessa Stützle, Douglas’ executive vice president of e-commerce and CRM, and Matthias Born, the group’s financial officer, were jointly handling Müller’s job on an interim basis.
Douglas also announced that it has appointed Michael Keppel to its management board as chief restructuring officer, a newly created position.
Keppel will be charged with developing a concept “for repositioning and future-proofing the Douglas store network within the framework of the #Forwardbeauty strategy against the backdrop of the changed market environment caused by the coronavirus pandemic,” Douglas said. — Jennifer Weil
¬ Beautycounter is beefing up its list of distributors with a pop-up at Sephora, starting in July.
The partnership entails a digital-first launch of 11 products,
including top sellers like the All Bright Vitamin C Serum and Overnight Resurfacing Peel, starting on July 7, and in-store availability in all Sephora doors
starting in August. The pop-up will last through the end of October.
For Sephora, the deal was a no-brainer, especially as Sephora’s client base shows an ascending interest in clean beauty, said Artemis Patrick, executive vice president and chief merchandising officer at Sephora.
“Beautycounter they're leaders in the space. Not just as it pertains to the product itself, but also how they work with legislation and health protective laws,” Patrick said. For example, Renfrew, recently testified in a congressional hearing on cosmetics reform.
“For us, limited-time partnerships seem to really feel most suitable for our business model in support of our community,” Renfrew said. —J.M.
¬ Ulta Beauty and Credo Beauty have teamed up.
The beauty retailers have entered a partnership in which brands carried by Credo will be sold at Ulta, beginning with a Credo endcap featuring eight brands that will roll out to 100 Ulta doors in the fall.
For Ulta, the move marks its first meaningful foray into clean beauty, a growing category the retailer has yet to enter in a significant way. For Credo, which operates nine boutiques in the U.S., selling products in one of the country’s biggest beauty retailers is an opportunity to scale.
Credo brands entering Ulta include Innersense Organic Beauty, One Love Organics and EleVen by Venus Williams x Credo.
“[Credo] is a trailblazer,”
said Monica Arnaudo, chief merchandising officer at Ulta. “This is a great partnership for both of us to elevate clean beauty efforts across the industry.”
“The original intention was to find neighborhoods where people are already living a healthy lifestyle, and the concept [of clean beauty] could be easily adopted,” added Annie Jackson, cofounder and chief operating officer at Credo. “The dream was not to keep it really selective, but to widen the reach.”“The timing is right because there’s so much awareness of clean beauty products and sustainable packaging,” Jackson said. “It’s more important now than ever given everything we’re experiencing as a planet.” —Ellen Thomas
Ulta Partners With Credo
Beautycounter Enters Sephora
Tina Müller
By The Numbers: Fragrance Gets A Holiday Boost Eye makeup continues to show resilience alongside fragrance and skin care. BY JAMES MANSO
FINALLY SOME GOOD NEWS for the hard-hit fragrance category—a sales bump thanks to Mother's Day and Father's Day, according to The NPD Group. In a week when prestige beauty was down 10 percent versus the week before (and 31 percent from the same week last year), despite store reopenings, fragrance sets saw the highest volume in sales. “Skin care and hair remain a focus for consumers for this latest week, with half of the top 10 segments falling into these categories,” said Larissa Jensen, vice president, beauty at The NPD Group. Other bright spots included skin care and eye makeup. Below, the top 10 gainers, by category and product, in prestige beauty in the U.S. market week-over-week, for the week ending on May 30.
1. fragrance Sets
2. skin care Body cream/lotion
3. fragrance Sets w/ ancillaries
4. hair Conditioner
5. skin care Facial devices
6. skin care Sets/kits
7. skin care Body in-sun
8. makeup Mascara
9. fragrance Perfume
10. makeup False eyelashes
Source: The NPD Group/
U.S. Prestige Beauty Total Measured Market
Giorgio Armani’s Sì Passione and Dior Sauvage Eau de Parfum.
3
JUNE 19, 2020
NEWS FEED
MASS RETAILERS SAY they will
stop locking up beauty products
designed primarily for Black
consumers — but experts say this is
only the first step toward making
Black beauty shoppers feel valued.
Walmart, CVS and Walgreens all
said they will stop locking up beauty
products created for Black consumers
after images on Twitter showed entire
“multicultural” and “ethnic” beauty
aisles placed in locked cases. The
announcements come as retailers
are evaluating their diversity and
inclusion practices and policies in the
wake of a new civil rights movement,
sparked by the police killing of George
Floyd and the subsequent nationwide
protests against systemic racism and
police brutality against Black people.
The practice of locking up beauty
products made for Black consumers
has long sparked criticism, and even
lawsuits, from customers who view it as
discrimination veiled as loss prevention.
But a new era of corporate
accountability at the hands of
consumers may be under way.
“The customer has realized their
power in their purchase, their voice,”
said Desiree Reid, founder and
president of Desiree Reid & Co., an
industry advisory firm that specializes
in multicultural marketing. “If they
continue to make brands accountable,
brands will become accountable.”
“They should be embarrassed,”
added Reid, of mass retailers who
have announced a ban on locking up
products for Black consumers. “I’m
not going to applaud [the decision
to unlock products meant for Black
consumers]. I don’t feel it’s worth
applauding. [There’s] a lack of
empathy and a lack of respect for the
customer that drives these decisions.”
The practice of locking up beauty
products meant for Black consumers
has only added to feelings of
disenfranchisement, and has made
Black consumers, who overindex in
beauty and grooming, more likely
to turn away from shopping the
drugstore beauty aisle, a category that
for some U.S. drug chains in particular
has seen years of sales decline.
“Retailers are saying, ‘We don’t see
the numbers, women of color don’t
do this or they don’t buy that,” said
Reid. “But it’s all a cycle. You can’t
buy in an environment that’s not
engaging you to buy.”
Permanently removing Black beauty
products out from under lock and key
may only be the first step in making
Black beauty shoppers feel that they
are wanted as customers in a store
— let alone, acknowledging their
purchasing power. “It can’t just be that
L’Oréal and Revlon are given all the
space at the front of the store because
they’re the big brands, with brands
that serve customers of color out of the
way at the back of the store,” said Reid.
“There’s underlying biases presented at
the store level preventing the customer
from having a beauty experience.
She’s either bypassing it, or picking
something up and getting out.”
Hair products in the “ethnic” or
“multicultural” beauty aisle — or,
hair care generally designed for Black
consumers — are sometimes placed in
locked cases at drugstores and other
mass chains, often in neighborhoods
with a high volume of Black shoppers.
Walmart, which announced last
Wednesday that it is banning the
practice, said this takes place in
“about a dozen” of its 4,700 stores.
A source with close knowledge
of mass retailers told WWD that
decisions made to place products in
locked cases are often determined
by data designed to single out the
products that are most commonly
shoplifted at any given store location.
But others say the issue is far
more complex than that, and that
the practice of locking up beauty
products meant specifically for Black
consumers — while the rest of the
aisle remains untouched — is rooted
in inherent bias, and has resulted
only in alienating Black shoppers.
A corporate employee at a mass
retailer who spoke to WWD on the
condition of anonymity said the
decision to lock up products meant
for Black consumers is the result of
a flawed system that that ends up
discriminating against Black shoppers.
The process usually starts with store
managers, who are responsible for
reporting on what is being stolen, and
who is stealing. Reports often single out
products aimed at Black consumers, or
whole sections of the store frequented
by Black shoppers, sources say.
These notes are shared between
stores at regional levels and eventually
become unofficial company policies
determined by middle management
— often with higher-ups unaware that
the decisions are even being made.
“I know they use metrics, but do they
always follow them? No,” said a source.
“I’ve been in brown neighborhoods
and I’ve seen specific African American
products locked up next to products
that aren’t locked up. I’d be surprised if
someone is stealing these [inexpensive]
do-rags and combs, but not the [popular
skin-care brand] on the endcap.”
Inherent Bias in the Black Beauty Aisle?Walmart, Walgreens and CVS say they'll stop locking away beauty products meant for Black women — retail experts say the practice was always a bad idea. BY ELLEN THOMAS
CORPORATE AMERICA — beauty
companies included — is beginning to
acknowledge Juneteenth, the holiday
that celebrates the end of slavery in
the U.S.
Juneteenth commemorates June
19, 1865, the day the last enslaved
people in Texas were freed, more than
two years after the Emancipation
Proclamation was signed in 1863.
The holiday has risen to increased
prominence this year after the police
killing of George Floyd and subsequent
protests against police brutality.
Companies that rushed to vocalize
their support for the Black Lives
Matter movement have started to
back up Instagram posts with internal
initiatives, including expanded diversity
and inclusion training and strategic
plans to hire more Black employees.
Some have also declared
Juneteenth an official holiday, and
are giving employees the day off.
“All U.S. employees will be given
this day off to reflect not only on the
current social movement and the
historical significance of the date,
but on what we can all do to educate
ourselves and initiate meaningful,
necessary conversations,” wrote
Shiseido Americas chief executive
officer Marc Rey in an internal memo
last week. Shiseido Americas offices
will be closed for Juneteenth starting
today, and for all years going forward.
U.S. employees at the Estée Lauder
Cos. Inc. will also have a paid day off.
On Thursday, the company's inclusion
and diversity center of excellence
hosted a virtual conversation for
employees in recognition of the
holiday that centers around the Black
experience in the U.S. with Dr. Peniel
E. Joseph, a race, democracy and civil
rights scholar from the University of
Texas at Austin.
Lauder will also close U.S. retail stores
for the holiday, and manufacturing
center employees will be given the
option to take a paid day off.
While L'Oréal USA didn't declare
a company-wide paid holiday, the
business is offering employees
another personal day as a “cultural
observance day” that can be used
to honor Juneteenth or a different
culturally significant event, said a
company spokeswoman.
At P&G Beauty, there is a digital
Juneteenth event sponsored by the
National Underground Railroad
Freedom Center in Cincinnati.
Employees have been encouraged
to take a half day to learn about the
history of Juneteenth.
Outside of beauty, many
corporations, including Nike Inc.
and Target Corp., are also instituting
Juneteenth as an annual paid holiday.
Juneteenth Makes Way Into Corporate Beauty Culture“All U.S. employees will be given this day off to reflect…on the current social movement and the historical significance of the date,” said Shiseido Americas ceo Marc Rey. BY ALLISON COLLINS
A new beauty department at CVS.
P R E S E N T E D B Y :
P&G Beauty launches a new platform aimed at addressing the challenges of the industry as well as its future growth.
TAKING RESPONSIBILITY
Alex Keith, chief exec-utive officer of P&G Beauty is renown in the industry as an advocate and cham-pion for sustainable and socially responsi-
ble business practices. As such, she has long pioneered programs, innovations and forged partnerships to position P&G Beauty as a “positive force” for beauty, globally.
Earlier this month, P&G Beauty unveiled a next-generation approach to sustainability and social responsibility. Tagged “P&G Responsible Beauty,” the platform is a comprehensive approach that leverages “systems thinking.”
Keith presented P&G Responsible Beauty during a global webcast on June 8 titled, “Navigating Unprecedented Times: A Systems Approach to Responsible Growth.” The session was moderated by Jenny B. Fine, executive editor, beauty, WWD and Beauty Inc. The presen-tation featured members of the P&G Responsible Beauty Advisory Council — leading global NGOs who have regu-larly convened with P&G Beauty leader-ship to help shape the P&G Responsible Beauty platform. Keith also presented an executive briefing report detailing the platform, which is founded on five inter-connected guiding principles: quality and performance; safety; sustainability; trans-parency; and equality and inclusion. Also made available publicly was a white paper
on the “Safe Use of Botanicals in Beauty Products,” the culmination of 20 years of research, 40 published manuscripts and more than 50 abstracts, posters and pre-sentations shared at professional scientific congresses and meetings that provides for-mulators from small to large size beauty brands, with a robust safety approach to assess botanical ingredients and ensure their safe use in products.
The webcast was anchored by a dis-cussion about how P&G Responsible Beauty and its systems thinking approach addresses the “challenges of today and tomorrow’s growth.”
Keith and Fine were joined by Sarah Glass, senior director for private sector engagement at the World Wildlife Fund, Dr. Thivi Maruthappu, medical advisor for the Skin Health Alliance, Samantha Morrissey, sector lead for forest prod-ucts at the Rainforest Alliance, Nicola Noponen, global technical advisor at the Roundtable on Sustainable Biomaterials, and Prof. Monique Simmonds, deputy director of science at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.
Affecting changeFine kicked off the discussion by acknowledging the ongoing social jus-tice and anti-racism protests in the U.S. and abroad. Fine said this was an appro-priate starting point, “because it really speaks to the very core of what we’re gathered here to talk about,” navigating uncertain times.
Keith said that with COVID-19 “still continuing around the world” the eco-nomic fallout from that epidemic, cou-pled with “the scourge of racism that exists, and has for centuries, is causing all of us to pause, assess and reflect.”
Keith went to say that “equality and inclusion is an integral value for us at P&G Beauty, and is one of the five pil-lars of Responsible Beauty.” She said that P&G Beauty is keenly “focused on our ability to affect change. Our first focus has been the safety of all our employees throughout the pandemic, and now the support of and advocacy for our Black employees, especially to end racism.”
Externally, P&G has been active, making a $5 million donation via the company’s “Take on Race” platform, Keith said, adding that the program funds organizations such as the NAACP Legal Defense Fund, the YWCA, and the United Negro College Fund.
Keith said that P&G Beauty has been
P & G R E S P O N S I B L E B E A U T Y :
FIVE INTER–CONNECTED
GUIDING PRINCIPLES
TRANSPARENCY SUSTAINABILITY
SAFETYEQUALITY AND INCLUSION
QUALITY AND PERFORMANCE
Alex Keith
“focused on equality for all: racial, gender, people with disabilities, LGBTQ.” That focus includes using “our voice to ensure an accurate portrayal of people in adver-tising,” she explained, adding that the company has used its brands “to share insight, to provoke conversation and to take action.”
Systems ThinkingThe lessons learned in dealing with these challenges also revealed the need to take a broader, systemic approach, noting there are no “quick fixes.”
“Achieving equality requires a systemic solution,” Keith said. “And I think all the events of the last couple of weeks have
WATCH THE WWD AND
P&G RESPONSIBLE BEAUTY PANEL DISCUSSION!
P&G Responsible Beauty puts an
important stake in the ground as to how we
want to do all of our business.”
Alex Ke ith , ceo, P&G Beauty
P R E S E N T E D B Y :
helped us reflect on all that.”And it is a systems-thinking approach,
which accounts for the interconnected-ness of various parts of a larger system, that powers P&G Responsible Beauty’s five guiding principles.
In regard to working with outside organizations, Keith noted that the five members of the advisory council “help us really think with a total systems approach. They represent different aspects of the total problem that we are going after.” She then explained that systems thinking requires “recognizing the fact that if you don’t consider the whole and you don’t consider how choices in one part might impact the balance, you won’t really get a total picture, and you might have unin-tended consequences.”
For example, Keith said that not all-natural ingredients are safe, and “not all extracts are high quality. The sourc-ing of natural ingredients can have [neg-ative] impacts on the environment or the communities where the ingredients are native.”
“So ultimately, we realized that as we got further and deeper into this discus-sion, that we really needed to have mul-tiple points of view so that we could think about the total system as we go forward, and not just individual parts and pillars of it,” Keith said before doing a deep dive into each of the five principles and the impor-tance of a systems thinking approach.
For her part, Noponen said if one looks at the supply chain and the goal is to embed sustainable practices in it, for example, the inherent complexity and the interrelatedness of each part of the value chain must be considered. From sourcing and packaging to processing and transportation as well as health and safety, Noponen said that is it “important that in order to turn one of these individual chal-lenges into opportunities that we take the systems-thinking approach.”
Within the council itself, Noponen said the work with P&G Beauty offers and important “opportunity, because by draw-ing from a diversity of expertise in this advisory council, we gain a real collective understanding, and we can also collec-tively identify where we have unintended negative consequences.”
And when it comes to affecting change, Morrissey said businesses such as P&G Beauty “hold the power to help build a better future by sourcing ingredients responsibly and adapting and innovating existing business models towards more responsible and sustainable practices.”
Morrissey said, collectively, businesses, NGOs and other organizations can help “meet the increased demand for respon-sibly-made products. We’ve really seen through our work at Rainforest Alliance, in working with forest communities and with farmers, a small offering — very small at the beginning of the supply chain, when those responsible markets create demand. And when the demand is there, our farm-ers and foresters really work hard to meet it. We really are engaged and passionate to implement these changes in their farms that have benefits for the environment, but also for their livelihoods [while] help-ing to increase their livelihoods.”
The time is nowGlass noted that the launch of P&G Responsible Beauty comes at a critical, and much-needed time. She said twenty years ago, sustainability “really meant writing checks to a worthy cause, where today more and more business leaders rec-ognize that sustainability across all levels, environmental, social, safety and quality is an integrated business need.”
“And part of what’s driving this change
is the increasingly painful cost of inaction,” Glass explained. “I think the evidence for this was clear even before the tragic loss of lives and economic crisis brought on by the global pandemic, and the long-stand-ing pain and important discussions taking place in the U.S today on racial justice. From an environmental standpoint, just last year alone, wildfires raged across California, Australia, Lebanon, Indonesia, the Amazon, and the Arctic. And they wrought havoc on supply chains, tourism and construction and saddled communi-ties with severe air pollution and signifi-cant health and productivity costs.”
It’s also good business. “While good sustainability contributes to good risk management in the face of these crises, it’s not just about preventing losses,” Glass
said. “A growing body of research shows that sustainability leadership can actually be profitable.”
From a botanical perspective, Simmonds said “quality” must be con-sidered in new terms. “What is the kind of botanical fingerprint that is associated with good quality?” she said. “Where can you get something to provide you with quality material which is also sustainable? Because the last thing you want to do is to have something that really does work, but it only comes from a narrow supply source. And you haven’t thought about that sustainability at full.”
Simmonds also said the advisory coun-cil and P&G Beauty is “able to provide that framework to evaluate plants that we’re using, and their potential to also increase the biodiversity of plants that we are using as well as to incentivize more people to protect their forests, their land-scapes, and to help the whole ecology — of the planet.”
Safety firstIn regard to consumers, Maruthappu said the priority is safety — and this is espe-cially true amid the COVID-19 pandemic. Consumers want to know “that the prod-ucts that they’re using are safe and they’ve been adequately tested, and that they’re actually endorsed by medical advisors or scientists or clinicians and doctors as well,”
she noted.Maruthappu said another key trend is
misinformation on the part of the con-sumer, which P&G Responsible Beauty aims to address. Maruthappu praised the release of the botanical safety guide, which will clear up misconceptions. “When it comes to naturals, you can claim that products do certain things and you can have this notion that everything that is natural is safe —and that simply isn’t true.”
Keith said she doesn’t expect consumers “to think about it in the systems thinking kind of way.That’s our job. But I do think that this pandemic and the causes of it are going to cause people to engage in beauty much more deeply — the safety, the trust, the performance of the products as well as the choices they make.”
Keith closed by saying she feels she has a “personal responsibility to make sure that the legacy we are leaving as P&G Beauty is one that moves not only the business ahead, but that does that by moving our organization ahead, moving our impact on the broader world ahead.” Keith went on to say “P&G Responsible Beauty puts an important stake in the ground as to how we want to do all of our business. I want to leave behind an organization and a business that reflects who our consumers are and is a positive force for beauty in the world.”
A systems–thinking
approach to beauty.
BEAUTYR e s p o n s i b l e
WWD STUDIOS IN PARTNERSHIP WITH P&G BEAUTY.
Pantene is partnering with the DressCode
Project, which is a glob-al network of salons
promoting gender-af-firming safer spaces
— including those for transgender patrons.
Olay was the first mass skincare brand
to offer refills with the launch of recyclable
refill pods for its best-selling Regenerist moisturizer in
the U.S. and the U.K.
To celebrate the 50th anniversary of Earth Day,
Old Spice and Secret were the first leading brands to
introduce all-paper, plastic-free deodorant packaging.
CLICK HERE TO LEARN
MORE ABOUT RESPONSIBLE
BEAUTY!
Long-lasting change
requires systemic
solutions”
6
JUNE 19, 2020
NEWS FEED
SHOCKWAVES ARE
reverberating around the world,
across all societies and industries,
including beauty, due to George
Floyd’s killing in May. As anti-racism
protests rip through the U.S., so, too,
are they making a mark in Europe.
In France, for instance, thousands
of people demonstrated in Paris last
weekend. On June 13, they took to
the streets in response to Floyd’s
killing and the Black Lives Matter
movement, as well as to long-
standing domestic tensions between
police and people of color.
Protesters took a knee on June 9
in the French capital and held eight
minutes of silence in memory of
Floyd. This came following two days
of marches against discrimination
throughout the nation.
Over in Rome’s Piazza del Popolo,
or People’s Square, on the morning
of June 7, hundreds of protesters
participated in eight minutes of
silence honoring Floyd. A few hours
later, hundreds in Milan voiced
their anger against systemic racism,
holding signs reading the likes of
“How many weren’t filmed” and
“Not one more.”
There have been other protests
in Italy, as well as a major swell of
solidarity in European countries
such as the U.K. and Germany.
Concurrently, all businesses are
honing in on diversity — or their lack
thereof — and beauty is not exempt.
Many beauty retailers are committing
themselves to increasingly stocking
brands launched by racially diverse
executives.
In Europe, there is a growing
number of pioneering Black female
entrepreneurs in the beauty space.
Here is a look at a few.
Pioneering Black Women In the European Beauty Space
To meet the needs of Black and mixed-race consumers, they’ve launched an app for at-home hairstyling, plus skin- and hair-care products. BY JENNIFER WEIL AND SANDRA SALIBIAN
Ma
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FOUNDER: R E B E C CA CAT H L I N EBRAND: M A C O I F F E U S E A F R O LAUNCHED: 2 0 1 6 HEADQUARTERS: PA R I S
POSITIONING: Cathline recognized
that most women of color in France
do not have access to a salon
specializing in their type of hair. So
she launched the Ma Coiffeuse Afro
application to help Black and mixed-
race women easily book stylists for
at-home appointments and learn
about products meeting their needs.
Her platform, which involves more
than 300 stylists available daily,
has built up a significant following,
especially among Millennials. To
date, Ma Coiffeuse Afro has 130,000
users and 172,000 Instagram
followers, while its site counts
around 10 million page views in
total and 360,000 monthly views.
The brand has also recently
expanded with a product range,
introducing in October 2019 In
Haircare, vegan ingestibles billed
to help grow and fortify hair. The
product was co-created with Ma
Coiffeuse Afro’s community. A bottle
of 60 capsules is priced at 29.90 euros.
SOLD IN: The app service is
available in France, while In
Haircare is sold there and in Senegal.
UP NEXT: Ma Coiffeuse Afro will
be launched in the U.S., and In
Haircare is to be introduced in the
Ivory Coast before being rolled out
elsewhere in Africa.
FOUNDER: Nomshado Michelle Baca
BRAND: A Complexion Company
LAUNCHED: 2018
HEADQUARTERS: United Kingdom
POSITIONING: Defined by its
founder as "an eco-luxury African
wellness and clean beauty solutions
company for BIWOC living within
the diaspora and across Africa,"
the skin-care brand celebrates
African-native holistic practices
passed down through generations.
It centers on the concept of Ubuntu
— the belief that people exist in an
eco-community in which humans,
animals and the natural world share
a holistic and sacred bond.
The brand’s product is a powder
made from the Moringa Oleifera
plant, which boasts antioxidant
and multivitamin properties,
and has been used for centuries
in traditional medicine for its
antiviral, antidepressant and anti-
inflammatory benefits. It’s applied
as a face and body mask or used
as food supplement. Do-it-yourself
beauty and food recipes using the
plant are available on the brand's
web site.
The Organic Moringa Oleifera
Beauty Superpowder retails at
30 pounds for the 3.5-oz. format
and 50 pounds for the 8.8-oz. size.
SOLD IN: The product is available
in the U.K., Europe and the U.S.
UP NEXT: Launches in July will
include a hair-and-body product,
as well as an at-home product.
The second release of the brand's
signature natural supplement for
Black, indigenous and women of
color will be available this fall, and
A Complexion Company is to enter
Africa and Australia by yearend.
FOUNDER: Kelly Massol
BRAND: Les Secrets de Loly
FOUNDED: 2009
HEADQUARTERS: Paris
POSITIONING: Massol set out to
produce products for naturally
textured hair after having learned
about plant-based ingredients from
her grandmother and launching a
forum in 2005 through which she
The Ma Coiffeuse Afro app.
7
JUNE 19, 2020
NEWS FEED
was in touch with more than
15,000 women to find out about
the composition of their daily hair-
care products.
After creating DIY products,
Massol launched her own line
comprised of items containing 98
percent natural ingredients, replete
with a suggested four-step routine
of how to use them. The range
includes shampoos, conditioners,
styling products and accessories.
The average price for a Les Secrets
de Loly product is 17 euros.
SOLD IN: The brand is carried in
about 500 sales points, including
online through Les Secrets de Loly’s
own e-boutique, its showroom in
Paris’ 12th arrondissement and other
locations across France, Belgium,
Luxembourg, Germany, Italy, the
U.K., Canada, Senegal, Martinique
and La Réunion.
UP NEXT: Les Secrets de Loly is
in the midst of rolling out to hair
salons — it’s entered 100 since
February — and will pursue further
international expansion in 2021.
FOUNDERS: Kindja Muongo and
Christel Djimtoloum
BRAND: Andjou Cosmetics
FOUNDED: 2018
HEADQUARTERS: Brussels
POSITIONING: The founders aim to
provide high-quality beauty products
to African consumers.
“I was on a trip to Congo and met
with a group of women who told
me how hard it was to find quality
beauty products for them,” said
Muongo. “I created a Facebook page
to open a conversation around this
topic, and very quickly, our audience
grew to thousands of women, who
were telling us about the lack of
skin-related cosmetics in their city.”
So she and Djimtoloum chose to
launch the brand with one product:
Matifying Liquid Foundation, which
is water-based with zinc powder and
allows for buildable coverage.
At launch, more than 10,000 women
were on the product’s waiting list.
The foundation comes in five shades,
with the 30-ml. bottle selling for $25.
SOLD IN: The Matifying Liquid
Foundation is found in Senegal,
Ivory Coast, Congo, Congo DRC
and Cameroun.
UP NEXT: Andjou Cosmetics is
expected to expand into Nigeria
and Ghana.
FOUNDERS: Liha Okunniwa
and Abi Oyepitan
BRAND: Liha Beauty
LAUNCHED: 2017
HEADQUARTERS: United Kingdom
POSITIONING: The sleek natural
and organic skin- and home-care
brand blends West Africa’s rich plant
and traditional heritage with English
aromatherapy. The result is vegan
formulations contained in recyclable
and reusable packaging.
Standouts include jars of Nigerian
or Ghanaian Shea butter to be
applied as multipurpose moisturizers
for all skin types on dry areas, stretch
marks and scars, and can be used
as a base for DIY natural cosmetics.
There’s the Idan Oil made with cold-
pressed coconut oil into which a
tuberose flower has been immersed,
which can be used for facial or body
treatments as well as a leave-in
conditioner. The Queen Idia candle
made of coconut wax is blended with
notes of geranium, lavender and
hibiscus. Prices for the line range
from 15 pounds to 39 pounds.
SOLD IN: Liha Beauty is carried in
countries around the world through
the brand’s own e-commerce and
via stockists, including Net-a-porter.
The brand’s top markets are the
U.K. and U.S.
UP NEXT: A facial range will launch
in fall. There is to be a further
expansion into the U.S., as well as
a ramping-up of the brand’s the
e-commerce platform.
Liha Beauty will be looking
to secure a second round of funding,
after an initial round closed
last year.
FOUNDER: Abbie Oguntade
BRAND: Freya + Bailey
LAUNCHED: 2019
HEADQUARTERS: United Kingdom
POSITIONING: Freya + Bailey's
goal is to help customers manage
the damaging impact of stress, air
pollution, UV radiation and other
modern-day realities on skin radiance
and vitality via natural and vegan
skin-care products. These are also
formulated with calming, therapeutic
aromas meant to destress minds as
well as skin. Prices run from 11 pounds
to 50 pounds.
SOLD IN: Freya + Bailey is in the
U.K. and Europe via online stores.
The brand’s e-commerce platform
ships worldwide.
UP NEXT: In addition to upcoming
product launches in the wellness
space, the brand will soon roll out
in brick-and-mortar stores in United
Arab Emirates and in John Lewis
department stores in the U.K.
From Liha Beauty.
Freya + Bailey.
Le Fond de Teint Liquid Matifiant
8
JUNE 19, 2020
WEEKLY ROUNDUP
KERING'S NEW BOARD
MEMBERS¬ Emma Watson has
joined Kering’s board, becoming the chair of its sustainability
committee.The British actress
is joining the board alongside Tidjane
Thiam, who will chair the audit committee, and Jean Liu, both of whom are also well-known figures. The luxury group said it seeks to expand its expertise, improve
understanding of the group’s markets and represent a diversity of experience on the
board. Thiam was ceo of Credit Suisse and is a national of France
and Cote d'Ivoire; Liu is ceo of a Beijing-based
transport company. Two board positions
were created.“The collective
intelligence that comes from diverse points of view and the richness
of different experiences are crucial to the future
of our organization,” François-Henri Pinault,
chairman and chief executive officer, said in
a statement.Appointed a United
Nations Global Goodwill Ambassador
in 2014, Watson, 30, spoke at the
U.N., launching the HeForShe campaign,
calling for men to advocate for
gender equality. — Mimosa Spencer
¬ Retail sales started to bounce back last month— but still have a long way to go.
Total retail and food service sales jumped a seasonally adjusted 17.7 percent in May from April, but compared to a year earlier, sales last month were still down 6.1 percent.
Apparel and accessories specialty stores showed the largest month-to-month gain, rising 188 percent in May compared with April, despite still being down 63.4 percent from a year earlier. Department stores sales
rose 36.9 percent from April and were down 25.8 percent from a year earlier.
Wall Street has been searching for direction amid a jumbled mass of data showing shifts between a comeback and worries over a second wave of infections. The sales figures help push the bullish sentiment to the fore. The Dow Jones Industrial Average increased 2 percent, 526.82 points, to 26,289.98 on Tuesday, with Nordstrom Inc., Gap Inc., Kohl's Corp. and Capri Holdings all seeing gains. —Evan Clark
¬ How will Nordstrom Inc. navigate through a world challenged by social unrest and COVID-19? According to chief executive officer Erik Nordstrom, it’s a matter of capitalizing on synergies between Nordstrom’s department stores, off-price, online and service hubs; flexibility; the ability to pivot, and the importance of inclusiveness. Coming out of 2019, Nordstrom was in a “strong financial position” and saw strong sales trends and healthy inventory levels, “setting us to react very quickly to what we saw happening in the last several months.”
By the end of last quarter, inventory was down 25 percent, by reducing receipts
and generating customer demand through marketing and promotions and utilizing fulfillment capabilities.Nordstrom said about 75 percent of his stores are reopened and 90 percent will be by the end of this week.
“We’re a little ahead of our plans so far, more so in our Rack stores than our full-line stores. It’s very early. We just opened up California last week, which is our biggest state." —David Moin
¬ Brazil’s retailers, which are seeing sales plunge as the country sees coronavirus cases skyrocket, need roughly $4 billion in aid to survive the crisis and help shore up cash-strapped businesses.
“Credit has not been
¬Beauty M&A activity accelerated on Thursday, with three different deals being announced. First up: L’Oréal is acquiring Thayers Natural Remedies, a U.S.-based natural skin-care brand, from Henry Thayer Co. Financial terms of the deal were not disclosed, but the brand is said to have generated sales of $44 million last year. It was founded in 1874 and is best known for its Witch Hazel Aloe Vera Formula Facial Toner….Next up came Grove Collaborative’s acquisition of Sundaily, which makes gummy supplements. Grove Collaborative is an e-commerce operation that sells natural home and
personal care products, and owns a variety of brands including the sexual wellness brand Sustain Natural and Rooted Beauty skin care. Founder and ceo Stuart Landesberg said the company is on the market for more brands…Last but not least, Cosway Company announced it bought ColorProof Color Care Authority , a professional brand for color-treated hair founded by serial entrepreneur Jim Markham (his other brands inclue PureOlogy and Abba.) Cosway, based in Carson, Calif., manufactures personal- and hair-care, and was an early investor in the brand. —WWD Staff
Beauty M&A Picks Up
Retail Sales Bounce Back
Nordstrom's Recipe for Success
Brazilian Retailers Ask for $4 Billion in Aid
L’Oréal to Acquire Thayers Natural Remedies.
Shoppers in Dallas in May.
JK Iguatemi in São Paulo.
Erik Nordstrom
The Latest From WWD Fashion.Finance.Media.Retail.
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Emma Watson
flowing to retailers and while the government has announced some measures, it’s not enough,” said Fernando Pimentel, president of top apparel trade lobby Abit in São Paulo. “The Central Bank has announced a $250 billion package for all industries, including guarantees for banks to issue loans and there are tax extensions, etc. But we need more. For our industry, at least $4 billion.”São Paulo’s big malls, such as shopping JK Iguatemi, sprung back to life last week. —Ivan Castano
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ERIC RYAN Chief Growth Officer OLLY
TRINITY MOUZON WOFFORD CEO & Co-founder GOLDE
10
JUNE 19, 2020
DEEP DIVE
“WHAT DO YOU DO when
nobody is watching?” asked John
Paul DeJoria, cofounder of John Paul
Mitchell Systems.
The 76-year-old doesn’t shy away
from life’s big questions and lessons,
which he’s instilled in his six children,
including daughter Michaeline, vice
chairman of the professional hair-
care company.
“I live by that every day,” she said.
The two present a solid, united
front, as they describe the dynamics
of their personal and professional
relationship in a chat over the phone.
“I think being father and daughter
does help,” she added, speaking
from her home in Los Angeles, while
DeJoria was at a residence in Austin.
“I can access him in a way that not
many people can.”
He has wisdom and history on
his side, she said, while she brings
a fresh perspective. They don’t have
disagreements, they echoed. Instead,
they collaborate, talking through
their points of view until they come
to a point of consensus.
“By the time we get through it, we
see both sides, and it’s pretty evident
what the answer should be,” said
John Paul DeJoria. “This happens at
least once a month.”
Just as he does in television
appearances, when sharing beauty
industry insights with news outlets,
John Paul DeJoria exudes a certain
zest for life and optimism, a trait
that’s arguably a driving force behind
his success. He’s been keen to share
his remarkable life story, which has
made headlines through the years.
Growing up with little money in Los
Angeles, he found himself homeless
— not once but twice — in his
younger years. It was due to a series
of misfortunes, including his first
wife leaving him and his oldest child,
and he ended up living in his car.
It was with just $700 that he started
the business in 1980 alongside the
late hairstylist Paul Mitchell, after
meeting in the early Seventies.
Today, John Paul DeJoria is a
billionaire, and John Paul Mitchell
Systems is the largest privately-owned
hair-care company in the world.
Headquartered in California, it's
found globally in about 115 countries
with estimated annual beauty sales
of $850 million last year, up about 3
percent from 2018, according to the
2019 WWD Beauty Inc Top 100 list of
the world's largest beauty companies.
Things have taken a turn, however,
since the coronavirus pandemic.
“We lost two-thirds of our sales,”
said John Paul DeJoria.
With a portfolio that includes
brands like Paul Mitchell and
TeaTree, which is a more sustainable
option, the majority of the company’s
sales come from selling to hair salons.
Business was inevitably affected
when salons closed during the crisis,
though the two shared a positive
spin, emphasizing their focus on
giving back to their community.
“The sales went down,” John Paul
DeJoria said. “However, how we
coped with it was by helping out.”
There were no furloughs at John
Paul Mitchell Systems. Though many
of the approximately 325 employees
worked from home, they all
continued to receive paychecks via
John Paul DeJoria and Mitchell’s son,
Angus, who took over as partner after
Mitchell’s passing.
“For our company, that’s $3 million
of payroll we would have saved,” John
Paul DeJoria said. “We paid for it
out of our own pocket. We gave our
people full salaries period.”
John Paul Mitchell Systems also
gave $4 million worth of free products
to salon partners to help them reopen
“no strings attached,” he added.
“When COVID-19 hit and the world
shut down, instead of thinking about
how to get our sales back up, we
focused on how to get the industry
back up,” said Michaeline DeJoria.
In the early days of the pandemic,
the company pivoted to produce hand
sanitizers and face masks for�
John Paul DeJoria, Daughter Michaeline on Creating Continuity Through Crisis In light of Father's Day, the duo — founder and vice chairman of John Paul Mitchell Systems, respectively — chat about the state of the hair-care industry. BY RYMA CHIKHOUNE
JPMS founder John Paul DeJoria with daughter Michaeline.
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11
JUNE 19, 2020
DEEP DIVE
first responders. “By investing in our
industry, we're investing in our future
and the future of countless others. By
continuing to empower and support
stylists, we're not only turning sales
around, but I believe we will all come
out stronger.”
Investing in the industry as a whole
is a key part of the company ethos,
passed on from father to daughter.
Another important factor is that
the company has stayed true to its
professional roots.
“If you ever see Paul Mitchell in any
drugstore or supermarket, it’s either
black market or counterfeit,” said John
Paul DeJoria. “We don’t sell it to them…I
believe we are the only company in the
professional beauty business that is in
the hairdressing industry. Even when
we worked out a deal with Amazon…a
piece of all sales made off Amazon go
right back to beauty salons.”
He went on: “Our competitors, four,
five companies in the professional
beauty industry of salons, they also
own the biggest companies retail,
so they’re able to take advantage
both ways, retail and professional.
Ours must be [in] the professional
beauty industry only, and by having
that commitment, it means we have
to do everything to build the entire
industry to keep our segment of
it healthy. As we grow, our entire
industry grows,” he continued.
“Hairdressers realize, wow, these
guys at Paul Mitchell are a thousand
percent behind us and that picks up a
couple extra customers along the way,
when they see how dedicated we are
to the industry and their success.”
The DeJorias also stay connected to
the community of hairstylists through
Paul Mitchell cosmetology schools. The
company is rethinking new launches
due to COVID-19, and while looking
ahead, they plan to concentrate on
creating sanitation kits, professional
product, color — which is a huge focus
— and education.
“There are over 100 schools,” said
John Paul DeJoria. “Two in Europe,
one in Asia and the rest in the U.S…
In the next 10 years, we’ll open at
least another 20.”
“I really see a lot of our business
being geared towards education and
in-salon support,” added Michaeline
DeJoria. The company is also
investing in artificial intelligence,
gadgets and technology to improve
hair analysis in partnership with
FitSkin, an AI beauty platform. “That’s
going to be brand new for us, which
we’ll be launching soon as well.”
Michaeline DeJoria has nothing
but praise to share about her father.
She learned the meaning of integrity
and hard work from him firsthand at
a young age, she said. Now 36 years
old, she’s passing those traits on to
her own kids, aged 12, nine and two.
She became director of future
development at John Paul Mitchell
Systems after studying product
development at the Fashion Institute
of Design and Merchandising, as well
as organizational communications
and industrial psychology at
Pepperdine University. In this role,
she shared insight on how to target
a younger consumer. Now, as vice
chairman, she directs the company's
future development for all brands.
“I wanted to be a writer, a mom, and
I wanted to be, quote, the boss of Paul
Mitchell,” she said with a laugh. Her
initial interest in the company began
as far back as kindergarten. “That
was always my childhood goal.…My
favorite activity as a kid was going into
the office with my dad and just playing
office and bouncing from desk to desk
and hanging out with everybody.”
She spent time immersing herself
in different departments, including
the warehouse. “I wanted to really
understand how things worked, what
the processes were like and what the
experience was like for the person
in that role,” she continued. “I knew
I needed that exposure to become a
great leader. It is to this day the most
valuable thing I’ve ever done in my
career. It absolutely makes me a better
leader and decision maker. I also knew
it was important to take the time to
earn trust, build relationships and be
on the same page as the team. I will
never be a boss that’s in a bubble.”
It was Michaeline DeJoria who
argued that more advertising dollars
needed to be invested in social media,
at a time when most of the sum was
put into TV and magazine ads.
“I’m old school,” said John Paul
DeJoria. “And please remember this,
I do not have e-mail. I do not go on
the Internet. I don’t use social services.
I do phone calls and texting. That’s
it, by choice.…Anyway, she proved to
me, yeah, there’s something to look
at there. So, we gave a seven-figure
bracket additionally to the social
media that she recommended. One
year later, we analyzed what we did,
and she beat us three to one. We were
getting 300 percent more out of social.”
A skilled salesman, John Paul
DeJoria is an entrepreneur at his core
with other ventures that include tequila
company Patrón Spirits Co., which he
founded in 1989 with businessman
Martin Crowley. Two years ago, it was
acquired by Bacardi Ltd. for a reported
enterprise value of $5.1 billion.
“Successful people do all the things
unsuccessful people don’t want to
do,” said John Paul DeJoria. “It’s
doing all the extra things, when
nobody else is watching.”
It’s going the additional mile, he
added, “knocking on every door,”
which he literally did for a job early
on, selling encyclopedias door-to-door
instead of heading to college in order
to make money: “I would knock on 100
doors, commission only. They would all
be closed on my face, but on door 101,
I was just as excited and enthusiastic
as I was on the very first door.…
Eventually, I got into a door and could
make a presentation. You learn a lot of
rejection, and it doesn’t faze you.”
These days, as the face of the
company and chairman of the board,
John Paul DeJoria concentrates on
philanthropic endeavors, which were
heightened these recent months
during the pandemic. He’s helped
provide food and shelter to the
homeless and those in need in the
Austin area. And though there was
a loss of sales to the business, he's
made his team a priority, he said.
“Success unshared is failure,” he said.
“Make sure your people are happy. As
soon as we could afford it, several years
after we were in business, everyone got
free lunch, and they still do.”
Company turnover is less than 150
people, he added. “They don’t want to
leave, and we don’t want them to leave.”
They’ve started to see a return
to their “pre-COVID-19 numbers,”
said Michaeline DeJoria. “We will
end up in a better place than we
thought we would when everything
shut down, and there was no end in
sight. My expectation for the future
is that our annual sales will do what
we have always done…continue to
grow year over year. My goal for the
future is that we take those growth
percentages to new heights.”
John Paul DeJoria attributes the
company’s success to the quality of
the products themselves, which he
noted have never been tested on
animals: “Some of my first products
I came out with 40 years ago,
shampoo one, shampoo two, the
conditioner, sculpting lotion, are still
good sellers 40 years later. We do not
want to be in the selling business.
We want to be in the reorder
business. What that means is, that
our product must be so good and
the end result of it must be so
outstanding in the beauty industry
that people will want to reorder it.
We do everything for longevity.”
In true character, he’s optimistic
when looking to the future. The
industry is “ready for anything,” he
continued. “Even though this has
been a very unfortunate situation,
we’ve learned that if it ever pops
up again, we know the sanitation
necessities now. We are prepared.” ■ Ph
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John Paul DeJoria with then-one-year-old Michaeline.
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13
JUNE 19, 2020
EYE CANDY
Veronica Webb on Walking the WalkThe supermodel revisits critical points in her career, and discusses representation in the modeling industry.
BY JAMES MANSO
VERONICA WEBB HAS seen a lot of progress in fashion. “When
I first started, you could count the number of Black women who had
Vogue covers on one hand, there were no cosmetics contracts,” she
said. But she was instrumental in changing that dynamic, and with her
personal role models (and fast friends) Iman, Beverly Johnson and Pat
Cleveland, the tides began to shift in her favor. “I felt like Bambi on ice,
landing flat on my face, but at least my face had a smile on it,” she said.
“Because the fashion business is harder for people of color to enter
and then be able to climb to the top of commercial success, there’s a
kind of camaraderie. Even still to this day, it’s not unusual to be the only
person of color on set,” Webb said. Despite still being underrepresented
in the industry, Webb credits much of her success to what little
representation she did see, citing Iman’s “Polished Ambers” ad for
Revlon and the mentorship of former Vogue editor André Leon Talley
as instrumental to her success.
One milestone of Webb’s career includes her landmark contract with
Revlon, the first long-term contract for a Black model with a cosmetics
company. The turning point wasn’t just professional or personal, it was
about accessibility of product, according to Webb. “What was so great
about Revlon, now my sisters, my mom, my fans, my friends, we all can
get the makeup at the drugstore, and at a drugstore price,” Webb said.
“I still have women who come up to me and say, ‘When your ads came
out, we took that to our local drugstore, and made them stock the
makeup.’ That was a lot of peoples’ first experience being able to try
a full range of shades.”
Some of her memories of her time in modeling were not so bright,
although more often than not, they came with a happy ending, such
as her cover of Essence. “No one would lend clothes, and Azzedine
Alaïa lent one of the first laser-cut pieces ever produced. The editor
was crying,” Webb said. “Designers used to say they didn’t want their
clothes to become aspirational for people of color.” The saga ended with
a showcase of Alaïa and Webb’s friendship.
Webb references Adut Akech, Riley Montana, Winnie Harlow and
Joan Smalls as a few of the faces she looks forward to seeing in more
campaigns. “For everything that’s happening in society now, even
though there are so many injustices and atrocities, we’re more open
to change than we ever have been before,” Webb said, as nationwide
protests over the killing of George Floyd have spurred conversations
about racism in America. “Is there still tokenism, discrimination? Of
course. But we are moving ahead. Don’t forget that we’re moving ahead.” CF
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At Stephen Sprouse in 1985.
At the CFDA Awards, in 2019.
Veronica Webb at the Victoria's Secret
Fashion Show after party in 2016.
At Nicole Miller in 2019.
At Isaac Mizrahi in 1994.