Fabric Design Considering the Optimisation of Pilling Formation

2nd INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE - Magic World of TextilesOctober 03rd to 06th 2004, DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

BARCODE

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CIP - Katalogizacija u publikacijiNacionalna i sveučilišna knjižnica – Zagreb, Hrvatska

UDK 677(063) 687(063)

International Textile, Clothing and Design Conference (2; 2004; Dubrovnik)Magic World of Textiles: Book of Proceedings / 2nd International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference, Dubrovnik, October 3rd to 6th, 2004; organized by Faculty of Textile Technology University of Zagreb (Editor Zvonko Dragčević). - Zagreb: Faculty of Textile Technology University of Zagreb, Zagreb, Croatia, 2004.

ISBN 953-7105-05-9

I. Tekstilna industrija – ZbornikII. Odjevna industrija – Zbornik

440903058


Publisher: Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Zagreb, Croatia

Editor: Zvonko DRAGČEVIĆ

Technical Editors: Anica HURSA, Tomislav ROLICH, Edita VUJASINOVIĆ

Editorial Board: Zvonko DRAGČEVIĆ, Anica HURSA, Natali KRMPOTIĆ, Dubravko ROGALE, Tomislav ROLICH, Ivo SOLJAČIĆ, Edita VUJASINOVIĆ, Nikola VULJANIĆ

Logo of ITC&DC created by: Ratko JANJIĆ - Jobo

Cover & WWW site of ITC&DC designed by: Natali KRMPOTIĆ

Printed by: A&C Design, Zagreb, Croatia

Editor's Note

All the papers presented in this publication have been reviewed and approved by International Review Committee. However, the editor and the ITC&DC 2004 organiser are not responsible for the contents and the opinions expressed in the papers presented. All the rights belong to the authors, meaning further publication conditions should be agreed upon with the authors in question. After this Book of Proceedings ITC&DC 2004 has been published, the authors and other persons/institutions wishing to publish, reference or in some other manner use the papers published here, are kindly requested to explicitly identify prior publication in the Book of Proceedings of the ITC&DC 2004, including the ISBN number above and page numbers concerned.The papers published in Book of Proceedings ITC&DC 2004 will be forwarded to secondary data bases: World Textile Abstracts, Textile Technology Digest, Textile Global/Net, Chemical Abstracts, and a selection of papers will be printed in a dedicated issue of the International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology (ISSN 0955-6222).

Publisher contact address:

Organising Committee ITC&DC 2004University of ZagrebFaculty of Textile TechnologyPierottijeva 6HR-10 000 Zagreb, CroatiaPhone/fax: ++ 385 1 37 02 599E-mail: [email protected]

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International Scientific/Programme Committee of the 2nd ITC&DC 2004

Ivo SOLJAČIĆ, University of Zagreb, Zagreb, Croatia (President)Dominique C. ADOLPHE, ENSAIT, Mulhouse, FranceMehmet AKALIN, Marmara University, Istanbul, TurkeyMário Duarte de ARAUJO, University of Minho, Guimarães, PortugalSubhash K. BATRA, NC State University, United States of AmericaXin DING, Dong Hua University, Shanghai, ChinaZvonko DRAGČEVIĆ, University of Zagreb, Zagreb, CroatiaJelka GERŠAK, University of Maribor, Maribor, SloveniaBhuvenesh C. GOSWAMI, Clemson University, Clemson, United States of AmericaPramod Kumar HARI, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi, IndiaHaio HARMS, Lenzing AG, Lenzing, AustriaBranko KATALINIĆ, Vienna University of Technology, Vienna, AustriaIzabella KRUCINSKA, Technical University of Lodz, Lodz, PolandJosef KURZ, Hohenstein Research Institute, Bönnigheim, GermanyAnton MARCINCIN, Slovak Technical University, Bratislava, SlovakiaHelena Jasna MENCER, University of Zagreb, Zagreb, CroatiaJiri MILITKY, Technical University of Liberec, Liberec, Czech RepublicDubravko ROGALE, University of Zagreb, Zagreb, CroatiaEckhard SCHOLLMEYER, German Textile Research Centre North-West, Krefeld, GermanyNorma STARSZAKOWNA, The London Institute, London, Great Britain George STYLIOS, Herriot-Watt University, Galashiels, Great BritainToru TAKAGISHI, Osaka Prefecture University, Osaka, JapanCharles Q. YANG, The University of Georgia, Athens, United States of America

International Review Committee of the 2nd ITC&DC 2004

Dominique C. ADOLPHE (FR); Mehmet AKALIN (TR); Ljerka BOKIĆ (HR); Octav BRUDARU (RO); Vili BUKOŠEK (SI); Ružica ČUNKO (HR); Mario de ARAUJO (PT); Krste DIMITROVSKI (SI); Xin DING (CN); Zvonko DRAGČEVIĆ (HR); Jelka GERŠAK (SI); Vera GOLOB (SI); Ana Marija GRANCARIĆ (HR); Haio HARMS (AT); Peter HAUSER (US); Lea HEIKINHEIMO (FI); Anica HURSA (HR); Fatma KALAOGLU (TR); Branko KATALINIĆ (AT); Drago KATOVIĆ (HR); Nina KNEŠAUREK (HR); Dierk KNITTEL (DE); Radko KOVAR (CZ); Ryszard KOZLOWSKI (PL); Dana KREMENAKOVA (CZ); Izabella KRUCINSKA (PL); Silvia KUKLE (LV); Alenka MAJCEN LE MARECHAL (SI); Anton MARCINČIN (SK); Zlatka MENCEL-BAJS (HR); Jiři MILITKY (CZ); Momir NIKOLIĆ (SI); Emel ONDER (TR); Vladimir OREŠKOVIĆ (HR); Đurđica PARAC-OSTERMAN (HR); Dubravko ROGALE (HR); Tomislav ROLICH (HR); Majda SFILIGOJ SMOLE (SI); Barbara SIMONČIĆ (SI); Ivo SOLJAČIĆ (HR); Miroslav SRDJAK (HR); Urška STANKOVIČ ELESINI (SI); Norma STARSZAKOWNA (UK); Štefica CERJAN STEFANOVIĆ (HR); Zoran STJEPANOVIČ (SI); Eugenija STRAZDIENE (LT); George K. STYLIOS (UK); Natalya SUPRUN (UA); Andy TAYLOR (UK); Miroslav TRATNIK (HR); Petr URSINY (CZ); Ausma VILUMSONE (LV); Maja VINKOVIĆ (HR); Ante VLADISAVIĆ (HR); Bojana VONČINA (SI); Edita VUJASINOVIĆ (HR); Roger WARDMAN (UK); Charles YANG (US); Chongwen YU (CN); Aristotelis ZABETAKIS (GR); Darja ŽUNIČ LOJEN (SI)

Reviewers for the Ministry of Science, Education and Sport Republic of CroatiaZoran GOMZI; Boris KARAMAN

Organizing Committee of the 2nd ITC&DC 2004 (ITC&DC Team)

Zvonko DRAGČEVIĆ (President), Nikola VULJANIĆ (Vice-president), Anica HURSA, Natali KRMPOTIĆ, Bojan MAUSER, Igor PETRUNIĆ, Tomislav ROLICH, Edita VUJASINOVIĆ

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Preface

Dear colleagues and friends,

The Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, has organised The 2nd International Textile, Clothing and Design

Conference in Dubrovnik, making our wish that the conference (ITC&DC) become a traditional one real. Our original idea

was to organise an international forum to present and exchange the knowledge and results of research, as well as to

make possible for all of us (and the rest of the textile world, of course) recent development trend of the scientific,

technical and practical nature, all of them associated with the field of textile raw materials and technologies, garment

engineering, fashion design and marketing, as well as environment protection in the field.

From the papers received the members of the International Rewiever Committee have accepted 180 papers for the 2nd

ITC&DC; all of them published in this Book of Proceedings. Compared to the 1 st ITC&DC, the number of papers and

participants has increased significantly. What makes us all especially happy, the number of papers to be presented by

young researchers has increased even more, which says clearly that the scientific research in the field of textile is

attractive, interesting, and a “cool” field for promising young scientists.

The development in computer sciences has made instant exchange of information possible. Everybody can get in touch

with everybody and become familiar with almost everything using the Net. However, the need to meet in person, to

discuss matters in direct contact, to be together and become friends, and to present your results to your peers has not

become obsolete. We must discuss things in person to be able to understand new ideas, to be able to accept novelties

that sometimes seem so improbable on paper or screen. At the same time we meet new people, get friends and

acquaintances in the field to which we have dedicated our lives. I am sure everybody was eagerly looking forwards to

meeting the old friends here in Dubrovnik, or just to see who would come. I am personally grateful to all the colleagues

that attended the 1st ITC&DC for coming again to the beautiful town of Dubrovnik, but am also sincerely happy for those

who are here in Dubrovnik and Croatia for the first time.

There are no frontiers in scientific research. Scientists have accepted globalisation, whatever you may think of it, long

ago, just as a natural precondition to function successfully. There are no Croatian, or, for that matter, European or

whatever scientific discovery. Everything we do belongs to the world. And this is why we understand each other

perfectly, no matter how proficient we may be in our English. In this sense, everybody is at home in Dubrovnik. Welcome

home!

I would like to express my sincerest thanks to all the participants for their valuable contribution and readiness to spend a

part of their time in Dubrovnik, making the picture of the Magic World of Textiles more valuable and more real.

My gratitude also goes to the persons and institutions that have helped organising the 2nd ITC&DC, especially to the

Government of the Republic of Croatia, as well as to the international scientific associations that have accepted to be the

patrons of the conference, proving it to be necessary, justified and useful.

Zvonko DRAGČEVIĆ

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CONTENTS

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PLENARY LECTURE

STYLIOS George K.New Measurement Technologies for Textiles and Clothing……………………………………..……

SECTION A: TEXTILE FIBRES AND ADVANCED MATERIALS

AGIC Ante; MIJOVIC Budimir & GOVORCIN-BAJSIC EmiKinetic Parameters Estimation for Thermal Degradation of Polyurethane Elastomers..............AO Limin & YU ChongwenResearch of Fabric-Evoked Prickle and Itch…………………………………………………………….BLASINSKA Anna; MIKOLAJCZYK Teresa; KRUCINSKA Izabela & KOMISARCZYK Agnieszka Investigations on Manufacturing of Porous Fibres Made from Dibutyrylchitin; Rheological Properties of Spinning Solutions in Ethanol and N-Methylpyrrolidone……………………………BRODA Jan; GAWŁOWSKI Andrzej; FABIA Janusz & WŁOCHOWICZ Andrzej Flame Retardant Polipropylene Fibres.............................................................................................CZAPLICKI Zdzislaw New Composite Filter Materials for Air Purification……………………………………………………DEMŠAR Andrej & SLUGA Franci The Influence of the Spinning Conditions on the Properties of the as Spun Polypropylene Fibers...................................................................................................................................................FABIA Janusz; WŁOCHOWICZ Andrzej; WAWRO Dariusz; STRUSZCZYK Henryk; GAWŁOWSKI Andrzej; BRODA Jan & GRACZYK Tadeusz Investigations of the Formation Process of Alginate Fibres for Medical Applications………...FARIMA Daniela; CURTEZA Antonela; MACOVEI Laura & SERBAN Viorica Double-Layer Knitted Fabrics for Sport Activities..........................................................................GAWŁOWSKI Andrzej; FABIA Janusz; WŁOCHOWICZ Andrzej; GRACZYK Tadeusz & BRODA Jan Correlation of Dyeing Process and Flame Retardant Modification of Polyester Fibres………...HARNAGEA Florentina & MIHAI Aura Approaches to Using Self and Thermo Adhesive Textile Materials for Footwear Upper Strengthening.....................................................................................................................................JIN Hongbin & DING Xin Mechanism of Strain Rate Effect on Tensile Behavior of Fibers...................................................KOMISARCZYK Agnieszka; KRUCINSKA Izabella; SZOSLAND Lidia & STRZEMBOSZ Wiktor The Influence of the Air Flow Rate onto the Structure of Nonwovens Made from Dibutyrylchitin Solution……………………………………………………………………………………..KOTEK Richard; JUNG Dong Wook; TONELLI Alan E. & VASANTHAN Nad High Modulus Nylon 66 Fibers..........................................................................................................LESKOVŠEK Mirjam; JEDRINOVIČ Gordana & STANKOVIČ ELESINI Urška Spinning Polypropylene Fibres with Microcapsules……………………………………………….MARCINČIN Anton; JURENKOVÁ Martina; KUBIČKOVA Miriam; HRICOVA Marcela; BORSIG Eberhard & BREJKA Ondrej Nanocomposite Fibres for Advanced Textiles................................................................................POCIUTE Milda; ADOMAVIČIUS Kestutis & STANYS Sigitas Behavior of Liquids on a Single Fiber..............................................................................................RIJAVEC Tatjana & GORENŠEK Marija Structure and Properties of Lenpur® Fibres…………………………………………………………….SEDELNIK Natalia Health-Promoting Properties of Blankets Made with Anty-Microbial Fibres................................

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SFILIGOJ SMOLE Majda; KREŽE Tatjana; KLEINSCHEK Karin Stana; ISKRAČ Severina; STAKNE Kristina & KUREČIČ Manja Structural Changes of Pre-Treated Flax Fibres Followed by FT-IR Spectroscopy……………….SULEK Peter; CRNOJA-COSIC Marina & SCHLANGEN Jörg The Cationic Viscose Fiber “Rainbow”: A Fiber Innovation Especially Developed for Blends..................................................................................................................................................TAYLOR Sarah Novel Interactive Design Utilising Fibre Optics, Sensors and Sound Technology......................TEULÉ Florence; AUBÉ Cécile; ELLISON Michael & ABBOTT Albert Biomimetic Manufacturing of Fibers……………………………………………………………………...VRABIČ Urška & GREGOR-SVETEC Diana Tensile Properties of Viscose Fibres................................................................................................VUJASINOVIĆ Edita & ANDRASSY MajaInvestigations of Keratin Fiber Specific Surface Area……………….………………………………..VUJASINOVIĆ Edita; JANKOVIĆ Željka; MARTEK Marina; ŠALIN Kristina; ANDRASSY Maja & DRAGČEVIĆ Zvonko (HR)Felted Croatian Wool – Efficient Natural Absorber for Motor Oils…………………………………..WEI Qufu; GAO Weidong & WANG Xueqian Preparation and Characterisation of Functionally Nanostructured Fibres...................................WŁOCHOWICZ Andrzej; GRACZYK Tadeusz; FABIA Janusz; GAWŁOWSKI Andrzej & DROBINA Robert Stress–Strain Investigations Related to the Structure of New Polypropylene Fibres Modified with Copolyester…………………………………………………………………………..………………….YAN Tingting & YU Chongwen Research on Enzymatic-Chemical Combination Degumming of Jute Fiber.................................

SECTION B: MANUFACTURE AND PROPERTIES OF YARNS, FABRICS AND NONWOVENS

DIMITROVSKI Krste; GABRIJELČIČ Helena; KOVAČEVIĆ Stana & NIKOLIĆ Momir The Influence of Weft Yarn Characteristics on Tensile Strength of Woven Fabrics in Warp Direction..............................................................................................................................................DOBNIK DUBROVSKI Polona The Influence of Fabric Structure on Air Permeability...................................................................GREGOR-SVETEC Diana; PRELOG Tanja & ZABRET Andrej Mechanical Properties of Polypropylene Nonwovens Used for Outdoor Applications...............ISGOREN Erkan; AKALIN Mehmet & SANCAK Erhan Workers' Evaluation of the Management in Circular Knitting Sector............................................JONAITIENĖ Vaida & STANYS Sigitas The Analysis of the Seam Strength Characterisrics of the PES-PTFE Air-Jet-Textured Sewing Threads………………………………………………………………………………………………KARBA Marija; GERŠAK Jelka & STJEPANOVIČ Zoran The Influence of Knitting Parameters on Dimensional Changes of Knitted Fabrics in the Process of Relaxation...……………………………………………………………………………………..KOLČAVOVÁ SIRKOVÁ Brigita The Structure and Final Properties of Woven Fabrics...................................................................KOVAČEVIĆ Stana; DIMITROVSKI Krste & OREŠKOVIĆ Vladimir Optimization of Size Pick-Up on Yarn..............................................................................................KOVAČEVIĆ Stana; WADSWORTH Larry; UJEVIĆ Darko & VITEZ Damir The Changes of Physical-Mechanical Properties of Yarn in Weaving..........................................

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LENFELDOVÁ Irena The Behaviour of the Warp-Knitted Fabric in 3D Deformation Processes...................................MACOVEI Laura; SERBAN Viorica & FARIMA Daniela Theoretical and Experimental Researches on the Yarn Tension in the Knitting Process..........MERTOVÁ Iva Stereometric Arrangement of Yarns in Fabric.................................................................................MILITKÝ Jiří; VIK Michal & VIKOVÁ Martina Air Transport Properties of Wool/PET Weaves…………………………………………………………OLŠAUSKIENE Asta & MILAŠIUS Rimvydas Integrated Fabric Firmness Factor as a Criterion of Air Permeability Designing........................OREŠKOVIĆ Vladimir; PENAVA Željko & OLJAČA Mladen New Method of Creating Technological Pattern Drafts for Double-Faced Fabrics (Double Satin and Posters)……………………………………………………………………………………………ÖZDEMİR Özcan & ÇEVEN Erhan Kenan The Properties and Manufacture of Chenille Yarns........................................................................REN Jiazhi; YU Chongwen & HE Jianxin Reserch on Process Performance of Driving Mechanism of Detaching Roller on E62 ComberSERBAN Viorica; MACOVEI Laura & FARIMA Daniela Research on Designing Non-Linear Stitch Cam, for Single Circular Knitting Machines.............UCAR Nuray; CANBAZ KARAKAŞ Hale & SARIÜNAL Sermet The Comparasion of the Performance of Acrylic Flat Knit Products of different Fabric Designs................................................................................................................................................URSÍNY Petr & NAG Kumar Ranajit Transformation of Mass Irregularity in Spinning System...............................................................USTA Ismail; BEYIT Ali & AKALIN Mehmet The Effect of Spinning Tension and Yarn Ballooning on Yarn Hairiness and other Yarn Properties……………………………………………………………………………………………………...UYGUN NERGİS Banu; İRİDAĞ Yeşim & CANDAN Cevza A Study on the Properties of Knitted Fabrics from Bouclet Yarns................................................UYGUN NERGIS Banu; YELKENCI Emre; DOĞAN Tolga & SALTABAŞ Resul A Study on the Factors Influencing the Properties and the Appearance of Chainette Yarns.....VOBOROVA Jana; GARG Ashish; NECKAR Bohuslav & IBRAHIM Sayed Yarn Properties Measurement: An Optical Approach.....................................................................VYŠANSKÁ Monika Simulation of the Idealized 19-Fibers Helical Yarn and Its Oblique Cross-Section………………WANG Kanfeng; YANG Shouren; HUMPHRIES Williams; LU Kai & HUANG Xiubao A New Worsted Spinning Prediction System with a Self-Study Function....................................WANG Xiaomei & KE Qinfei Air Velocity/Temperature Decay along the Spinline of Melt Blowing Die with Dual Rectangular Jets.................................................................................................................................XING Mingjie; YU Chongwen & TANG Dianhua Optimization of the Position of Two Jet Orifices on Air-Jet Spinning Machine…………………..ZENG Yongchun & YU Chongwen The Effects of Parameters on the Tensile Properties of Air-Jet Spun Yarns...............................

SECTION C: PROCESSES AND TECHNOLOGIES OF TEXTILE FINISHING AND CARE

BORSA Judit Carboxymethylation of Cotton Cellulose as a Durable Finishing…………………………………...

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DJORDJEVIC Dragan; IGNJATOVIC Vesna & DJORDJEVIC Suzana Dyeing of Polyester Fabrics Pretreated with Lipases.....................................................................DOBNIK DUBROVSKI Polona; DUMITRESCU Juliana & ZABETAKIS Aristotelis Special Finishing Treatments and UPF Improvement…………………………………………………FAKIN Darinka; GOLOB Vera; STANA-KLEINSCHEK Karin & MAJCEN le MARECHAL AlenkaThe Use of Ultrasound in Hydrogen Peroxide Bleaching of Flax Fibres………………………….FORTE TAVČER Petra; KRIŽMAN Pavla & KOVAČ Franci Combined Pretreatment of Cotton Fibres with Acid Pectinases and Peracetic Acid..................GOLOB Darko & ZUPAN Jure The Use of the Artificial Neural Network for Colour Prediction in Textile Printing………………GRANCARIĆ Ana Marija; KOVAČEVIĆ Vera; LESKOVAC Mirela; TARBUK Anita; KOTEK Richard & JUNG Dong Wook Interface Phenomena of Hydrolized Polyester Fabric....................................................................GRANCARIĆ Ana Marija; PUŠIĆ Tanja; TARBUK Anita & BIŠĆAN Jasenka Sunprotected White Cotton Knitted Fabric......................................................................................HAUSER Peter; GÜRSOY Nevin; HINKS David & LIM Sang-Hoon Enhanced Cotton Bleaching with Peracids.....................................................................................HOBZOVÁ Jana & WIENER Jakub Extremly Full Shades in Reactive Dyeing........................................................................................IBĂNESCU Constanţa; SCHIMPER Christian & BECHTOLD Thomas Modification of Cellulose Properties Using Alkali Mixtures with a Reduced Water Content......JUS Suzana; KOKOL Vanja & GOLOB Vera The Effect of Proteolytic Enzymes on Acid Dyeing and Finishing Properties of Wool Fibers…KALAV Berdan & DAYIOGLU Habip The Effect of Fixation Type on Color Yield Properties of Reactive Prints Prepared with Synthetic Thickener………………………………………………………………………………………….KOKOL Vanja; VRHUNC Veronika & GOLOB VeraEnzymatic Processes for Ecologically and Economically Alternative Reactive Dyeing of Cotton Fibres………………………………………………………………………………………………….KURZ Josef Inovative Medical Textiles.................................................................................................................KUT Dilek; GUNESOGLU Cem & ORHAN Mehmet The Effect of Softener Type on some Properties of 100% PET Woven Fabric……………………NERAL Branko & ŠOSTAR-TURK Sonja UV Curing of Pigment Printing Fabrics............................................................................................NEVES Manuela & NEVES Jorge The Influence of the Knitting and Weaving Structure on the Ultraviolet Protection Factor........OZTURK Mehmet & DAYIOGLU Habip The Effect of Functional Groups of Reactive Dyes on Colour Fastness Properties of Dyed Cotton Fabrics....................................................................................................................................PARAC-OSTERMAN Đurđica; TRALIĆ-KULENOVIĆ Vesna; DUGAN Ljerka & GORENŠEK Marija UV-Rays Blocking Property of Dyed Wool Fabrics.........................................................................PUŠIĆ Tanja; SOLJAČIĆ Ivo; GRANCARIĆ Ana Marija & TARBUK Anita The Influence of Textile Fibres Composition on Surfactants Adsorption and Desorption.........SAHIN Umut Kivanc & GURSOY Nevin Cigdem The Effects of Pectinase Scouring on Bleaching and Dyeing Properties of Cotton Fabrics......SIMONČIČ Barbara; TOPLIŠEK Tea; KALČIČ Maša; ČERNE Lidija & FORTE TAVČER Petra The Influence of Anionic Surfactants on Wettability of the Pretreated Cotton Fabrics…………UJHELYIOVA Anna; BOLHOVA Eva & ORAVKINOVA Janka Kinetics of Dyeing Polypropylene / Polyester Blend Fibres…………………………...…………….

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WENG Ming & DING Xin The Effect of Surface Free Energy of Liquids on Wicking in a Fiber Bundle...............................YANG Charles Q. & ZHOU Welong The Abrasion Resistance of Nonformaldehyde Durable Press Finished Cotton Fabrics: Improvement by Additives………………………………………………………………………………….YANG Charles Q.; YANG Hui & WU Weidong New Flame Retarding Finishing Systems for Cotton, Nylon/Cotton and Nomex/Cotton Blends..................................................................................................................................................

SECTION D: CLOTHING TECHNOLOGIES AND ENGINEERING

BAYRAKTAR Turkan; KALAOGLU Fatma; BOZDAG Ergun & SUNBULOGLU Emin Analysis of Sewing Dynamics of Overlock Sewing Machines.......................................................BAYTAR Fatma & KALAOGLU Fatma A Study on the Performance of Fusible Interlinings.......................................................................BAYTAR Fatma & KALAOGLU Fatma Measuring Needle Penetration Forces.............................................................................................BELAKOVA Dana Problems of Labour Standard Development in Latvian’s Enterprises..........................................BOGOVIĆ Slavica; ROGALE Dubravko & ŠIMIĆ Vidosava Topological Properties of Garment..................................................................................................CURTEZA Antonela; FARIMA Daniela & FLOREA Adela On the Evaluation of Apparel Aesthetic Attributes.........................................................................DRAGČEVIĆ Zvonko; BAKRAN Tomislav; BOGOVIĆ Slavica & VUJASINOVIĆ EditaCeremonially Academic Gowns of the University of Zagreb - Idea to Finished Product Path...ERYURUK Selin Hanife & KALAOGLU Fatma An Investigation of Seam Defects in Knitted Fabrics.....................................................................JEVŠNIK Simona; GUBENŠEK Ivan & GERŠAK Jelka The Advance Engineering Methods to Plan the Behaviour of Fused Panel.................................KALAOGLU Fatma & MERIC Binnaz Investigation of Performance of Linings..........................................................................................LOGHIN Carmen & NICOLAIOV Pulferia Garment Production’s Monitoring Using the Barcodes System....................................................NICOLAIOV Pulferia; LOGHIN Carmen; HOBLEA Zulfet & RUSU Elisabeta The Means of Using Degree Optimization in Production's – Effects and Consequences...........NICOLAIOV Pulferia; RUSU Costache & LOGHIN Carmen Flexibility in Technological Process Design – Requirements and Instruments...........................PODBEVŠEK Tanja Pattern Construction of the Skirt as Related to the Female Body Shape.....................................PODBEVŠEK Tanja Garment Anthropometry – A Challenge for the Future ..................................................................PODBEVŠEK Tanja Clothing Pattern Construction Systems – The Future Prospective..............................................ROGALE Dubravko; PETRAK Slavenka & MANDEKIĆ-BOTTERI Vinko Method of Transforming 3D Clothing Patterns into 2D Cutting Parts...........................................ROGALE Dubravko; PETRUNIĆ Igor; DRAGČEVIĆ Zvonko & FIRŠT ROGALE Snježana Equipment and Methods used to Investigate Energy Processing Parameters of Sewing Technology Operations……………………………………………………………………………………..SARÝÇAM Canan & KALAOGLU Fatma The Correlation of Seam Strength, Material and Machine Parameters.........................................

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ŠAJN Dunja; GERŠAK Jelka & BUKOŠEK Vili A Study of the Relaxation Phenomena of Fabrics Containing Elastane Yarns............................ŠOMOÐI Željko; HURSA Anica & ROGALE Dubravko Numerical Optimisation of the Mechanical Reinforcement of Weak Spots in Textile and Clothes................................................................................................................................................ŠOMOĐI Željko & NIKOLIĆ Gojko Dynamic Model for Estimating Friction Effect on to the Sewing Regularity................................VEČAJ Darko; TAKEUCHI Kenji & DRAGČEVIĆ ZvonkoProtective Airbag Jacket for Motorcyclists……………………………………………………………...VRAZ Silva; JEVŠNIK Simona & GERŠAK Jelka Drape Analysis of Fabrics as Related to Mechanical Properties...................................................

SECTION E: ANALYSIS, TESTING AND QUALITY CONTROL

ABREU Maria José; SCHACHER Laurence; ADOLPHE Dominique C. & CABEÇO SILVA Maria Elisabete Fabric Hand Laboratory - Objective Measurement of the Effect of Radiation on Nonwoven Based Surgical Gowns………………………………………………………………………………………BENDKOWSKA Wiesława; TYSIAK Janusz; GRABOWSKI Leszek & BLEJZYK Albert Determining Temperature Regulating Factor of Apparel Fabrics Containing Phase Change Material................................................................................................................................................BERKALP Omer Berk & ONDER Emel Objective Evaluation of Fabric Wrinkle............................................................................................

BOKIĆ Ljerka; VOJNOVIĆ Branka; & ŠILJEG Mario Evaluation of the Methods for Chromium Determination in Textile Samples..............................BROEGA Ana Cristina & CABEÇO SILVA Maria Elisabete Comfort Evaluation: A Fundamental Parameter in Textile Quality Control………………………..CIHLAROVA Eva New Possibility of Evaluation of Yarn Variance-Length Curve………………………………………ČIUKAS Ričardas & SADAUSKAS Darius Theoretical Determination of Area Density and Tightness Factor for Weft Knitted Fabrics.......DING Xin & GU Bohong Simulation of Tensile Performance of 3D Braided Fabrics............................................................ĐORĐEVIĆ Dejana; KOVAČ Franci & GORENŠEK Marija The Comparison of two Methods of Liquid Chromatography for the Determination of Reactive Dyes.....................................................................................................................................EPPS Helen H. A Study of Instrumental and Methodological Variables in Fiber Color Measurement.................FILIPOVIČ Maja; VONČINA Bojana; KNEZ Emil & KUKOVIČ Milana Formaldehyde in Microencaptulated Textile Materials...................................................................FLOREA Adela & CURTEZA Antonela Economical Effects Related to the Application of Technological Control Programs in Ready-Made Clothes …………………………………………………………………………………………………HEIKINHEIMO Lea; JEVŠNIK Simona; KIMPIMAKI Rinna & ZAVEC PAVLINIĆ Daniela Mechanical Properties of Enzyme Treated Fabrics.........................................................................HLAVAČ Eduard Latest Trends in Textile Testing........................................................................................................KERT Mateja & SIMONČIČ Barbara Determination of the Interactions in Anionic Dye-Cationic Surfactant and Cationic Surfactant - Nonionic Surfactant Systems……………………….……………………………………………………

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KOŠŤÁKOVÁ Eva Computer Simulation of Drop’s Penetration into Fibrous Materials.............................................KOVAR Radko & KONECNY Filip Woven Fabric-to-Fabric Slip..............................................................................................................KOVAR Radko; KOVAR Simon & PITUCHA Tomas Measuring Anisotropy of Woven Fabric Deformation....................................................................KUNZ Eva & CHEN Xiaogang Analysis of 3D Woven Structure as a Device for Improving Thermal Comfort of Ballisitic Vests....................................................................................................................................................LOPES MIGUEL Rui Alberto; MENDES LUCAS José; CARVALHO Maria de Lurdes & MANICH Albert Maria Fabric Design Considering the Optimisation of Seam Slippage...................................................LYASHENKO Inga; GONCA Vladimir & VIBA Janis Functional Features of Compressive Knitted Product...................................................................MAKLEWSKA Elżbieta; KRUCIŃSKA Izabella & PILAS Bogdan A Study on the Structure of Nonwovens with High Schock-Absorbing Ability….……...………..MARAVELAKIS Emmanuel; BILALIS Nicholas; VAN WASSENHOVE Luk N. & ENDERS Andreas A PAN European Appraisal of Industrial Excellence in the Textiles Sector.................................MENDES LUCAS José; LOPES MIGUEL Rui Alberto; CARVALHO Maria de Lurdes & MANICH Albert Maria Fabric Design Considering the Optimisation of Pilling Formation................................................MILITKÝ Jiří; KŘEMENÁKOVÁ Dana; KRUPINCOVÁ Gabriela & RIPKA Josef Relations between Bundle and Single Fiber Strength....................................................................MILITKÝ Jiří & NOVÁKOVÁ Jitka Anisotropy of Fabric Surface Roughness........................................................................................PARAC – OSTERMAN Đurđica; JOANELLI Martina & ŠIMIĆ Vidosava Performance of Kubelka – Munk Theory on low Concentration Shades......................................PEZELJ Emira & ČUNKO Ružica The Impact of Laser Treatment on Denim Cloth and Cotton Fiber………………………….………PRINIOTAKIS Georgios; WESTBROEK Philippe; VAN LANGENHOVE Lieva & KIEKENS Paul An Experimental Simulation of Human Body Behaviour during Sweat Production Measured at Textile Electrodes…………………………………………………………………………………………SUN Yuchai, CHEN Xiaogang, FENG Xunwei & LIU Chaoying A Study of Heat Transfer through Textiles Using the Finite Element Method..............................WARDMAN Roger & LEE Bryony The Suitability of Image Analysis Algorithms for the Assessment of Wear in Carpets..............WITKOWSKA Beata & FRYDRYCH Iwona Protective Clothing – Test Methods and Criteria of Tear Resistance Assessment.....................YANG Hongying; ZHU Sukang & PAN Ning Investigating Possible Measures of Improving Optical Behaviours of Fabrics Using an Improved Scheme…………………………………………………………………………………………….YANG Xudong & DING Xin Correlation between Accelerated Ageing and Outdoor Exposure of Polypropylene Geotextiles…………………………………………………………………………………………………….ZAJÍCOVÁ Eva Uniaxial Deformations of Oblique Cut Fabrics................................................................................ZIELIÑSKI Janusz; JÊDRUCH Katarzyna & FRYDRYCH Iwona Measurement of Selected Biophysical Properties of the New Generation of Textile Materials..

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SECTION F: DESIGN AND MARKETING OF TEXTILE AND CLOTHING

BAČIĆ Jadranka; MENCL-BAJS Zlatka; HRŽENJAK Renata & UJEVIĆ Darko The Analysis of Making new Models and Collections of Clothing Items......................................CEVIK ISGOREN Nuriye; AKALIN Mehmet & ISGOREN Erkan An Overview of the Turkish Home Textile Sector………………………………………………………ERYURUK Selin Hanife & ONDER Emel An Evaluation of Quality Costs in a Textile Company....................................................................GOK SADIKOGLU Telem Turkish Baby Diaper Market..............................................................................................................GRUNDLER Darko & ROLICH Tomislav Evolutionary Algorithm Adapted for Matching Weave and Color in Fabrics Design...................HARNAGEA Florentina & MIHAI Aura Establishing Leather Goods Developments Criteria......................................................................KAZLACHEVA Zlatina Investigating the Design of Collars with Lapels and Shawl Collars of Great Dimensions.........KNEŠAUREK Nina & BROZOVIĆ Maja Why Color Management in the Textile Industry Marketing?..........................................................KOSZEWSKA Małgorzata Application of the Relationship Marketing Concept in the Protective Clothing Market………...KUKLE Silvija & ZOMMERE Gunta The Analysis of Geometric Patterns of Card-Woven Bands from Selonian Influenced Culture Region.................................................................................................................................................MALINOWSKA – OLSZOWY Monika The Protection of Intellectual Property Rights in the Textile and Clothing Sector in Respect to the UE and WTO…………….……………………………………………………………………………..MIHAI Aura; HARNAGEA Florentina & CURTEZA Antonela Footwear Product Design and Collection Development.................................................................NEVES Jorge; MESQUITA Francisco; MARQUES Cyntia Potentialities and Limitations of the Simultaneous Application of Flavours, Photo and Thermochromic Pigments…………………………………………………………………………………..PRIBERGA Dagmara Women’s Silk Costume Imitation from 18th Century Latvia..........................................................PRIEST Ann Uniformity and Differentiation in Fashion........................................................................................SALOPEK Ivana; TRATNIK Miroslav & STRACENSKI Maja Basic Marketing Elements Determining Design of Textile Fabrics...............................................SCHWEIZER Christine & OGER Brigitte (FR)Digital Technologies for Reproducing Ancient Textiles.................................................................STARSZAKOWNA Norma Transmutations: The Real and Virtual Surface in Textile Print Processes...................................STRACENSKI Maja & TRATNIK Miroslav The Influence of Young People' s Age on Buying Clothes.............................................................TAYLOR Andy Ways, Means, Directions (WMDs)…………………………………………………………………………TRATNIK Miroslav; ROGALE Dubravko; LJUBIĆ Zdenko & STRACENSKI Maja Perception and Position of Jeans Brands Among Students of the Zagreb University...............VIĻUMSONE Ausma; DEKSNE Skaidra & VIĻUMSONE Ineta The Composition and Ethnographical Motifs of Latvian Folk Costume in Contemporary Clothing...............................................................................................................................................

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VINKOVIĆ Maja; ŠABARIĆ Irena & MANDEKIĆ-BOTTERI Vinko Descriptive Geometry in Artistic Clothing Design..........................................................................

SECTION G: ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION, ECOLOGY AND ENERGY MANAGEMENT

BOKIĆ Ljerka; VOJNOVIĆ Branka & REGELJA Melita Simultaneous Determination of Inorganic Anions of Various Textile Waste Waters..................BRUDARU Octav & COPACEANU Cintia Genetic Algorithms and Hybrid Methods for the Assembly Line Balancing................................COPACEANU Cintia & BRUDARU Octav Heuristic Methods for the Assembly Line Balancing Problem......................................................DOŠEN-ŠVER Dubravka & PERNAR Elvija Waste Water Purification after a New Method of Wool Scouring..................................................FILIPAN Veljko; BUDIN Rajka; SUTLOVIĆ Igor & MIHELIĆ-BOGDANIĆ Alka The Possibilities of Condensate Reusing in Textile Finishing Processes...................................KRIŽANEC Boštjan; MAJCEN LE MARECHAL Alenka; BRODNJAK-VONČINA Darinka & VONČINA Ernest Dioxins in Textiles..............................................................................................................................MIHELIĆ-BOGDANIĆ Alka; BUDIN Rajka; SUTLOVIĆ Igor & FILIPAN Veljko Efficient use of Energy in Selected Textile Industry Plants...........................................................OJSTRŠEK Alenka & GOLOB Vera Dye Removal from Dye-Bath Waste Waters Using Constructed Wetland....................................PARAC-OSTERMAN Đurđica; BOKIĆ Ljerka; GOLOB Vera; VOJNOVIĆ Branka & ĐURAŠEVIĆ Vedran Decolourization of Textile Dyes Using Natural Recourses…………………………………………...REZIĆ Iva & BOKIĆ LjerkaDevelopment of the Chromatography Method to Determine Surfactants in Textile Waste Waters..................................................................................................................................................VAJNHANDL Simona; MAJCEN LE MARECHAL Alenka & BRODNJAK VONČINA Darinka Ultrasound Assisted Degradation Kinetics of Textile Azo Dyes in Aqueous Solutions..............ZABETAKIS Aristotelis Environment and Sustainability, Ecological, Economic and Social Needs for the Textiles Companies..........................................................................................................................................

LIST OF AUTHORS………………..……………………….……………………….…….……………..

LIST OF SPONSORS……………………………………………………………………………………

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Fabric Design Considering the Optimisation of Pilling Formation