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Extensions & Hair Styling

Expert

Module 12

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12. Module 12: Upstyling

Table of Contents

12. Module 12: Upstyling ...................................................................................................................... 1

12.1 What is Upstyling ..................................................................................................................................... 2

12.2 Brief history of upstyles ........................................................................................................................... 2

12.3 Essential tools for upstyling ................................................................................................................... 10

12.4 Preparation for upstyling and sectioning. ............................................................................................. 15

12.5 Choosing an upstyle ............................................................................................................................... 18

12.6 Techniques for creating up styles .......................................................................................................... 20

12.7 Fillers and Hairpieces ............................................................................................................................. 23

12.8 Upstyles step by step ............................................................................................................................. 25

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12.1 What is Upstyling

• Brief history of upstyling

• Essential tools for upstyling

• Preparation of hair for upstyling and braiding

• Braiding video

• Selection of upstyles

• Techniques for creating upstyles

• Fillers and hairpieces

• Upstyles, step by step.

12.2 Brief history of upstyles

Throughout history, upstyles played an important part in personal adornment for both men and women.

Once, long hair was a symbol of being born free and was part of nobility. Short hair was only worn by

servants, slaves and manual workers on the pretext of ensuring greater hygiene.

As a hair styling expert, it’s important to know about the enduring styles that were prominent among

different civilizations as these are continually adapted into modern versions. Here are the most

representative styles:

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Egyptian

Greek

Roman

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Middle ages

Renaissanc

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Baroque

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1900-1930

1930s

1940s

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1950s

1960s

1970s

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1980s

Present day

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Today, upstyles are used almost daily. There are different types to choose from for different occasions.

For an everyday look:

Ponytails:

For comfort and convenience, a ponytail is always a good option for everyday. You can find sophisticated

versions like these:

To ensure the ponytail looks well, cover the elastic tie with a lock of hair and fix in place with invisible pins.

Bun: This is a classic, easy to wear style and works with most fashion looks. If you want to make a generous

bun but your client has poor hair, you can use a ‘donut' to fill. (See step by step bun with filling in section 5

of this module).

Upstyles for children

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Girls often want to wear very long hair, but it has a major drawback: the tangles. Upstyles help hair to stay

tangle free and stylish.

Sometimes, like for a communion or a wedding, upstyles or semi-upstyles are an ideal option.

Special Occasions

For special or formal occasions, choose more elaborate upstyles. Take care not to "age" your client with the

wrong choice.

You’re not disguising, you’re enhancing.

Brides

Though it’s been a tradition for a bride to wear her hair up, upstyles have now evolved into longer, looser

styles which are now equally acceptable for weddings. With your help, every bride can find a hairstyle in

which she looks and feels beautiful and which is in keeping with the style of her dress.

Fashion and Entertainment

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Mastering techniques to work in upstyling is essential if you want to direct your career into the fashion and

entertainment world. You’ll often see impossible and extravagant hairstyles in advertising or films.

12.3 Essential tools for upstyling

To do upstyling, you need some specific tools.

We recommend that if you don’t have a hairdressing briefcase, use a DIY storage unit. You can organise your

hairpins and clips in the pockets for nails and screws.

When doing upstyling on location - on a film set or for a fashion shoot or catwalk - it’s really useful to use a

‘tool blanket’ or waist bag where you can easily access your combs and a small strong hold hairspray.

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This leaves your hands totally free to make adjustments and your utensils are at your fingertips.

Brush:

To untangle smooth, long hair or curly, wet hair.

Wide comb or Afro comb:

Specifically to untangle curly wet hair or to break up curls after removing rollers.

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Rattail comb:

Essential when doing partings for an upstyle, like straight and zigzag lines. You can find them with a plastic

or metal prong.

Prong comb or teasing comb:

These combs can have 3 to 5 prongs. Their function is to tease the hair roots to help build hair for styles with

lots of volume. With the other part you can smooth and comb hair.

Upstyling or smoothing brush:

There are also more tools used for backcombing and smoothing. You can find synthetic types or natural

which are less harsh on the hair.

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Clamps:

These are used to hold hair sections. This way you can free only the section you’re working on and secure

the remaining hair while you work. Fastening hair with clamps keeps your work clean and comfortable.

Regular hairgrips:

These are the clips that will hold the upstyle or form a base. The can be found in various colours. It’s

important to always have brunette and blonde shades in your briefcase.

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Invisible hairclips:

These are called invisible because they are the easiest to camouflage in the upstyle. They are anchored in

regular clips for a perfect fit.

Elastic bands:

Indispensible for holding ponytails and braids. You can find them in various materials and colours. If you

choose the plastic type you must cut them before removing to avoid breaking the hair.

Elastic bands with hooks:

These have a hook at each end of the elastic. They are very easy to use and ensure extra support.

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12.4 Preparation for upstyling and sectioning.

Before creating an upstyle, hair must be prepared for a long lasting style and to achieve the desired result.

First of all, examine whether the model has straight, curly or wavy hair.

If she has frizzy hair and wants an upstyle, firstly straighten the waves and then make new curls. If, instead,

your model has strong, smooth hair, and wants a romantic hairstyle, curl with tongs

When working with very straight and fine hair, you must ensure that the upstyle is securely fixed and

anchored for durability. Hairclips will loosen easily on this type of hair if not properly secured. One trick is to

ask the client not to come with freshly washed hair or spray it with hairspray to make it less sleek.

Hair preparation techniques:

Curly:

You can make waves or curls with a curling iron or a flat iron.

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Rolled:

This technique is used to give more body and volume to hair. You can now find "hot rollers" which are heated

with electricity.

Smoothed:

Done with the aid of a dryer and a round brush or a straightening iron.

Backcombed:

A technique for volume, hair is combed in the opposite direction to usual, lifting the roots and 'teasing' the

hair.

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Crimping Irons:

This is widely used in children's hairstyles and for fashion shoots. It creates a hippie look and Afro Chic. To

achieve a well defined zig-zag pattern, take fine strands and firmly press the iron closed.

Partings

Instructions

• Partings are the separations you make in the hair so you can work in a clean and neat way with

a good view of the hair roots.

• Good parting is needed for cutting techniques and when drying, dyeing, or doing up-styles.

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• In this video you’ll see the most commonly used partings.

• Firstly, detangle the hair with a brush.

• Take a rat tail comb to make a pentagon-shaped parting.

• Wrap the hair and hold it with a grip.

• Pull long hair so the dividing lines are clearly visible.

• Next, make a horizontal parting from ear to ear, and gather all the hair from here to the nape.

• Draw a triangle that goes from the crown to the temples.

• This parting creates the forward section.

• Also, gather the side sections separately.

• Next, you’ll see an example of how to part for drying or placing extensions.

• As you’ve seen, working on your partings will help you apply different techniques in a

professional manner.

12.5 Choosing an upstyle

In section 2 of module 3 we saw how to choose a hairstyle depending on the face shape. This is a very

important factor but you also need to take into account the time of day, occasion, clothing and height of

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your client. Although you can advise your clients on what is the most suitable upstyle, it must be to her taste

so you can be sure she’ll be happy with the end result.

Time of day:

Generally, upstyles for daytime occasions should be less elaborate and lighter than those for night time.

Daytime upstyle:

Example of night time upstyle:

The occasion:

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Each event has its rules and protocol. The hairstyle must be adapted to the code of the occasion. Don’t

choose an office style to attend a gala dinner. For weddings, it’s important to know whether you’re creating

a style for a bridesmaid, a mother or a guest.

The dress:

The hair is usually consistent with the style of clothing in order to create harmony. Sometimes you just need

to modernise a regular hairstyle.

12.6 Techniques for creating up styles

Braids

Knots

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Twists

Rolls

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Buns

Crossovers:

Curls

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Feathers

12.7 Fillers and Hairpieces

Sometimes, to achieve the desired result, you’ll need the help of fillers, which allow you to create more

voluminous upstyles.

When clients want a longer ponytail, a removable fringe or more hair volume, use hairpieces.

These hair compliments are usually attached with fasteners and it’s very important that they are well

anchored.

Another point to consider is the choice of colour, which should be as close as possible to your client’s natural

hair colour.

Bun filler or donut:

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Fillers for hairpieces:

Fake fringes:

Fake ponytails:

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12.8 Upstyles step by step

Italian bun or a Grace Kelly

1.Comb all hair to one side of the head.

2. Make a turn with your wrist, fasten with invisible clips and, starting from the bottom, wind the hair

upwards.

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3. Continue winding the hair and fasten with clips.

4. To finish, spray with lacquer.

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Quiff

1. Backcomb the area you want to raise with a 5 pronged comb. Backcombing teases the hair in the opposite

direction to usual, strand by strand.

2. Secure the quiff with clips.

3. Using a smoothing or a boar brush, finish by smoothing the quiff and applying hairspray.

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False bob

1. Prepare the hair according to its characteristics. This style works better with curly or wavy hair. If the hair

is straight, create curls with a curling iron

2. Section the hair at the crown and lift the hair from the bottom up to the length you want the bob to be.

3. Make sure to secure the hair well with clips.

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4. To finish, apply lacquer to the hairstyle.

Braided quiff

1. Create the quiff by backcombing the fringe area.

2. Secure the quiff using clips the same colour as the hair.

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3. Smooth the quiff with a boar brush and set with hairspray.

4. Create a braid with the remaining hair.

5. Loosen the braid by pulling gently on the sides.

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6. Secure the braid with invisible clips

7. Set the style with strong hold hairspray.

High bun with filler

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1. Make a ponytail on the upper part of the head, between the fringe area and the crown.

2. When you’re happy the ponytail is straight and well groomed, backcomb all the hair.

3. Next, put on the filler.

4. Wrap the hair around the filler and secure with invisible pins.

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5. Smooth the bun and apply hairspray.

6. If the client wants, you can add hair decor.

Classic bride

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1. Prepare the hair by creating curls with a curling iron and backcombing the crown area.

2. Secure the backcombed area with clips.

3. Roll the middle area and secure with clips.

4. Join the hair from the neck area into the bun and secure with clips.

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5. Smooth the hairstyle with a boar brush and apply hairspray.

6. The bride will need to take care not to disturb the style when dressing. For this model, we’ve added a

vintage touch.

Romantic bride

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1. Prepare the hair by creating waves with the iron and backcombing the crown area.

2. Make 3 braids along the length.

3. This hairstyle is focused on the right side of the head. Wind strands of hair from the left side to the right

and hold in place with invisible clips.

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4. With the remaining strands, make a ‘coconut’ – hair strands are rolled and twisted in a spiral and braids

intertwined with the strands to form the ‘coconut’.

5. For a bride’s hairstyle, added decor and touches are very important. On this style we’ve used little flowers

that highlight the upstyle.

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Informal bride

1. Prepare the hair by backcombing the crown.

2. Gather the hair to the right side of the head.

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3. With the help of an iron, curl some of the hair.

4. Set with hairspray and add decorative detail