Extension and the UC Master Gardeners of Placer and nevada ...goodlifegarden.ucdavis.edu/media/growing/placer_summer_2001.pdf · down side? A world where ... Extension and the UC

I t’s beautiful here in the foothills. How lucky we are to

be surrounded by open country ranging from grasslands to oak woodlands to conifer forests. The down side? A world where wildland fire is a very real and personal risk.

We’ve seen the uncontrolled destruction of a wildland fire on television. Remember the Oakland Fire, the worst wildland fire on record? No one thought it could happen there. How about the ‘49er Fire in 1989? We thought we were safe then, too! Local and state fire service agencies advise us, “It isn’t IF a wildland fire will occur in our own world, but WHEN.”

Wildland fire needs just three simple elements to start: an ignition source (lightning, matches, campfires, cigarettes, etc.), oxygen (present in the air) and fuel (virtually all vegetation burns). In Placer and Nevada Counties, there is usually dry, readily available fire fuel for about six months of the year.

We need to start now to minimize the impact on our world.

Being “firewise” means working to minimize potential damage by wildland fire in and around our homes and landscaping. We do this primarily by adopting simple landscaping principles and practices. It is a concept of proactive damage control to “fire” by being “wise” in the selection, placement and maintenance of plant materials to protect our homes and our community.

As a gardener, you know that one key to plant success is the right location for the right plant, followed by the right after-care. You work to supply the right soil type, sun/shade patterns and water amounts. Next you keep plants healthy by irrigating, pruning and appropriate fertilization.

Other common gardening practices include removing landscape litter, pruning dead branches and mulching which assists with water retention, weed control, temperature modification and soil health.

inside

Let’s Talk “Firewise Landscaping” Barbara Brown-Neville

Nevada County Master Gardener

You do these things? Congratulations! You’re already performing two critical firewise practices.

The next two are plant selection and placement, in relation to the structures on your property. Let’s talk about selection first.

Plants, native and non-native, have qualities that put them into one of three categories: firewise, not-so-firewise and pyrophytes.1

Pyrophytes, the most flammable plants, should be used sparingly and kept farthest from structures.

Since the purpose of firewise landscaping is to provide an area of protection against wildland fire, “wise” plant placement is critical. The object of placing “firewise” plants near your house is to minimize fuel directly around the house in order to slow the

(Continued on page 12)

...a quarterly newsletter published by the University of California Cooperative Extension and the UC Master Gardeners of Placer and nevada Counties

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION PLACER COUNTY 11477 E Avenue Auburn, CA 95603 (530) 889-7385 E-Mail: [email protected]

NEVADA COUNTY 255 So Auburn Grass Valley, CA 95945

(530) 273-4563 E-Mail: [email protected]

WEBSITE: ceplacernevada.ucdavis.edu

Before You Spray 9 Calendar 13-14 Environmental Rose Care 5-6,15 In the Garden 11 Low-Impact Lawn Care 3 Stink Bugs/Squash Bugs 10 Summer Composting 2 Tomatoes... 4 Water and Energy 7 Water Quality/Pesticides 8

THE CURIOUS GARDENER

PAGE 2 PLACER & NEVADA COUNTIES

A hhhh, summertime, and the composting is easy!

Let’s review the basics, then talk about summertime composting issues.

Composting Basics Composting requires five

things: carbon, nitrogen, water, air and time. Some carbon-containing materials are leaves, straw, and sawdust. These materials are normally brown and dry and are commonly called “browns”. Nitrogen-containing materials include grass, manures, and kitchen scraps. They are usually green and moist and are commonly called “greens”.

Mix greens and browns together in roughly equal volume. Add enough water to make the mixture as wet as a wrung-out sponge. Microbes and fungi eat the materials and their respiration causes the pile to heat up. As feeding continues, the pile gets hotter and hotter and they consume more and more of the available oxygen.

As temperature increases and oxygen decreases, the microbial population begins to die and the pile begins to cool down. Notice that the size of your pile has decreased dramatically, by at least half. To restart the process, you aerate the pile by turning it, and the microorganisms go back to work!

This method known as hot composting, i.e., regularly turning a pile (and adding water if needed) to encourage several cycles of heat up/break down/cool off. The heat serves to speed the

breakdown of the materials you used and also will kill many weed seeds and plant pathogens. This method can result in usable compost in a matter of weeks.

A less labor-intensive (although much slower) method is called cold composting. It involves simply layering greens and browns into a pile over a longer period of time and letting nature takes its course. It will take 12 to 24 months for a usable product.

What Not to Use in Your Compost Pile

Manure from farm animals (horses, goats, rabbits, etc.) are great, but don’t use manures from pets and humans which may contain pathogens harmful to children and pregnant women. Do not use meat, dairy products or fats. They smell badly and attract animals.

Do not compost diseased plant matter. Even hot composting will not kill all pathogens, so it’s always best to discard diseased plants. In addition, the heat does not kill all seeds. Yellow Starthistle, bittercress and tomato seeds survive hot composting, so it’s best to avoid them as well.

Summer Composting For many of us, summer is the

ideal time for composting because we have so many grass clippings. Grass is a wonderful source of nitrogen, but keep the layers thin. Layers thicker than two inches or so run the risk of forming

smelly mats of rotting grass.

The issue for many people this time of year is what to use as browns. In the fall we tend to have huge amounts of dry leaves that are perfect for composting, but if you didn’t save any for summer (do that this fall!), you may be wondering what else to use.

Straw and sawdust are great browns. Newspaper torn into strips an inch or two wide and dampened also works well. For those of you with paper shredders, the shreddings are a bonus. Because they do not absorb water easily, soak them in a bucket of water for an hour or two. Then toss them into your pile — a great way to recycle your junk mail! Do not include any slick paper, as it may contain materials not suited to a compost pile.

A concern many people have about summer composting is turning the pile in hot weather. Summer heat helps the pile to heat up and to retain its heat, but it makes the physical labor a tough task!

Aerating/turning your compost in the early morning or late evening hours can allay some of this problem. But if the summer heat just wears you down, then remember the cold composting techniques — “garden gold” will still arrive in its own good time.

So pour yourself a glass of lemonade and watch compost happen!

Summer Composting Peggy Just Peterson

Placer County Master Gardener

SUMMER 2001

Page 3 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WEB SITE: ceplacernevada.ucdavis.edu

S o you think the grass is always greener…in your

neighbor’s yard? Here are a few suggestions for caring for your lawn so that it looks good and its care has the least negative impact on the environment.

Watering There are no “hard and fast”

rules when it comes to watering your lawn. The amount of water you provide depends on several factors that include location, soil type, and weather conditions.

Deep, less frequent watering is preferable to a daily watering schedule because it:

Increases overall soil moisture Encourages deeper rooting Reduces (leaches out) accumulated salts

If your soil does not absorb water very quickly, (most clay soils) begin watering and then turn off the sprinklers as soon as runoff occurs. Wait until that water has percolated in and then resume watering. You may need to repeat this pattern several times to give the lawn the right amount of water.

In addition to efficient water use, minimizing runoff prevents fertilizers from polluting streams and other water sources. Nitrates in our water can be a serious problem.

Water early in the morning, before 8:00 a.m. This provides sufficient time to absorb the water and avoids extended dampness, which promotes disease.

Mowing Each type of turfgrass has a

recommended blade length for optimal health. The table contains

a list of some common grasses, how high to set your mower, and the height of the mowed grass.

Mow often enough so that no more than one-third of the length of the shoot (blade and stem) is removed at any one time. This might mean mowing more than once a week during the peak growing periods.

Fertilizing Lawn fertilizers are pre-

balanced and contain a slightly greater percentage of nitrogen than of phosphorus or potassium. Choose timed-release fertilizers, they allow the grass to absorb nutrients more efficiently and minimize nitrate runoff. A twice-yearly (spring and fall) application of a complete timed-release fertilizer provides enough available nutrients for a lawn to remain healthy, dense, growing, and green. Follow label directions for the right amount of product to provide at each application.

Most importantly, do not over-fertilize.

Grasscycling One neighbor bags the

clippings and the other doesn’t use a bag at all. What’s the story? The neighbor that doesn’t seem to use a bag probably has a mulching mower and is actually

leaving the clippings on the lawn. This process is called grasscycling.

Grasscycling provides a steady dose of nitrogen as clippings break down. If you’re mowing often enough, the clippings will not be unsightly. You will save money on fertilizer as well as on the labor and time involved in emptying grass catchers and disposing of clippings. Anything that saves money, time, and means less work deserves your attention!

In some cases it is better to remove lawn clippings. If the lawn height exceeds the one-third rule, compost the clippings. In the case of disease or the presence of noxious weeds, it might be best to discard them.

Want more information on environmentally friendly lawn care? See sources below: Grasscycling. 2000. California

Integrated Waste Management Board. http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/Organics/GrassCycling/

California Turfgrass Culture. 1999 & 2000. M.A.Harivandi and V.A.Gibeault. Available at http://ohric.ucdavis.edu/ (newsletters)

The Less Toxic Home & Garden: Lawn Care. Central Contra Costa Sanitary District. http://216.185.140.10/education/ipm/lawn.html

Low-Impact Lawn Care Steven Wagner-Davis


GRASS TYPE

CLIMATE ADAPTATION

MOWER SETTING (INCHES)

MOW HEIGHT (INCHES)

Bermuda (common) Warm 1 to 1½ 1½ to 2¼ Kentucky Bluegrass Cool 1½ to 2½ 2¼ to 3¾ Perennial Ryegrass Cool 1½ to 2½ 2¼ to 3¾ Tall Fescue Cool 1½ to 3 2¼ to 4½ St. Augustine Warm 1 to 2 1½ to 3

Proper Mowing Heights of Common California Turfgrasses



N othing says summer like the first bite into a vine-ripened

tomato. We grow them in rows, in cages, in pots on our decks. For that sweet taste of success, we need to choose varieties that perform well in our microclimates.

Tomatoes have different growing habits, and your choice will depend upon how much space you have and when you want tomatoes. Determinate tomato varieties grow to a certain size, then flower and set fruit all at once. Grow this type if you have a short growing season or if you want your tomatoes all at one time. Indeterminate varieties flower and set fruit throughout the growing period and will continue to grow until frost or disease kills them. They need to be staked, caged, or trellised to keep the plant off the ground and protect its fruit.

Remember that each tomato plant will yield 10 to 15 pounds of fruit, so don’t be tempted to plant too many!

VARIETIES FOR LOWER ELEVATIONS

Indeterminate Varieties Big Pick (VFN TMV): Large, round,

smooth fruits. Excellent fresh. 72 days.

Early Girl (V): Medium sized, red fruit, prolific, early and excellent flavor.

Golden Jubilee: Large, mid-season, sweet fruit (“low acid”), prolific, golden-orange color. 80 days.

Brandywine (Amish heirloom): Pink-red, great flavor, but not disease resistant. 120 days.

Determinate Varieties Ace Hybrid (VFN): Medium to large,

solid, deep red meaty fruits with mild taste. Low acidity. 85 days.

Celebrity (VFN TMV): All-purpose variety, superb flavor and heavy yield. 70 days. Semi-determinate.

Floramerica (VFN): Dark red globe-shaped fruits on bushy plants. Heavy bearer, very adaptable.

Roma (VFN): Small, pear-shaped fruit, paste type, good flavor, 85-90 days.

Cherry Tomatoes Sweet 100: Cherry sized, red fruit grow in

clusters, very flavorful and productive. Yellow Pear: Delicious yellow pear

shaped fruits in abundance. Open pollinated.

Cherry Grande (VF): Very productive cherry type with large clusters of 1½" fruits. Determinate. 74 days.

VARIETIES FOR HIGHER ELEVATIONS

Indeterminate Varieties Early Girl (V): See above. Stupice Dwarf indeterminate vines do

not need trellising. Fruits 2-3”, sweet, extremely early, prolific, open pollinated. Determinate Varieties:

Celebrity (VFN TMV): See above. Siletz F1 (V Parthenocarpic): Early, true

slicing type, large red fruits, open pollinated. 70 days.

Cherry Tomatoes Principe Borghese: Red fruit, grown for

drying, Italian heirloom, determinate. 75 days.

Sungold: Very early, bite- sized, sweet, golden fruit. Indeterminate, hybrid. 57 days.

Although many varieties do well in containers, there are several varieties developed especially for containers: Patio Hybrid: Medium size fruit with

good color, taste. Small Fry Hybrid: Sweet, juicy, bite-size

red fruits. Indeterminate. 65 days. Toy Boy Hybrid: Especially bred for

containers and hanging baskets. Tasty, 1½" fruits on compact plants Determinate. 55 days.

KEY TO TERMS V: resistant to Verticillium wilt, a

fungal disease F: resistant to Fusarium wilt, a fungal

disease N: resistant to nematodes TMV: resistant to Tobacco Mosaic

Virus

REFERENCES Home Vegetable Gardening. 1992. D.

Pittenger. UC ANR Publication 21444. The Cook's Garden. Spring/ Summer

2001, Vol. XVIII Tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum).

2001. UCCE Placer/Nevada Publication 31-159.

Totally Tomatoes. Spring/ Summer 2001.

University of California Vegetable Research & Information Center at:

http://vric.ucdavis.edu/veginfo/commodity/garden/crops/tomatoes.pdf.

http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/data/cornucop/2000074948015631.html

TOMATOES for the Foothill Garden Lynn Lorenson

Nevada County Master Gardener

SUMMER 2001


From the Farm Advisor

R oses are among the most common plants in our

gardens, but their care may be the most dangerous to our health and environment. Many rose enthusiasts believe that successful rose culture requires intensive pesticide use. Pesticides commonly used on roses are among the most toxic pesticides allowed by law, and can have serious environmental and human health and impacts. There are, however, many rose lovers who grow beautiful roses without these toxic materials.

Rose Varieties Variety selection is key to

successful, environmentally friendly rose care. Rose varieties vary greatly in their insect and disease susceptibility. For example, floribunda and polyantha varieties are more disease resistant than many of the hybrid teas and grandifloras. Many landscape roses have been bred for disease and insect resistance, and are available in various growth forms. Light colored flowers are more attractive to some pests, so color selection may also be important.

Planting Plant bare-root roses in the

spring before temperatures rise above 70°F. Roses from container stock may be planted throughout the summer. Be sure to choose this year’s stock. Most roses do not do well when they have been held in containers for more than a year.

Fertilizing Plant roses in well-drained soil

with plenty of organic material. Roses usually need a small

amount of supplemental nitrogen. Apply nitrogen twice a year, in the spring and fall, at the rate of 1 lb. of actual nitrogen per 1000 ft2. It should be applied as slow release fertilizers or in organic forms to minimize nitrate contamination of water sources. Excessive nitrogen applications lead to vigorous, tender, green growth that is attractive to pests and may be more susceptible to disease.

Cultural Practices Appropriate cultural practices

maintain rose health and minimize pest problems. Planting location is important. Roses can be planted in full sun to part shade, but they do best with at least six hours of sun per day. Space them far enough apart for good air circulation.

Roses need to be irrigated, especially in our hot, dry, summers. Watering frequency and amount depends on weather and soil texture. Deep watering once or twice a week should be sufficient even in the warmest areas of our counties. Overwatering can contribute significantly to disease incidence.

Mulching will reduce water loss, lower soil temperatures, and reduce weeds. Mulch with two to four inches of organic material such as wood chips. Mulch also reduces soil splash, which is an important factor in some diseases.

Pruning Pruning is a

valuable tool in maintaining healthy roses. Pruning should be done in late winter or early spring before bud swell. The first step in pruning is to remove all diseased or damaged wood. The second step is to shape and create a plant architecture that will minimize pest and disease problems. This means an open form that permits good air circulation and allows sunlight to reach all the leaves.

Insect Pest Management Roses are favored by a wide

variety of pests, but most can be managed with very low toxicity options. Many common pests have natural enemies that will rapidly reduce their numbers if you avoid using pesticides. Learn who your friends are by looking at the websites at the end of this article.

Many homeowners are convinced that the systemic insecticide, Di-syston (disulfoton) is essential to rose care. While it may be effective, it is a Class 1 (Danger) pesticide and is extremely toxic to human beings. Other commonly used insecticides such as Carbaryl, Orthene, and Malathion are also very toxic and not really necessary to rose care. In addition to environmental and health impacts, broad-spectrum pesticides often exacerbate your pest problems.

If you feel it is essential to spray a pesticide, there are many effective materials that are much less toxic to you and your environment.

(Continued on page 6)

Cindy Fake Horticulture & Small Farms Advisor

Placer & Nevada Counties

Environmentally Friendly

Rose Care



(Continued from page 5)

Recommendations follow each pest described. These and disease recommendations are summarized in a table found on page 15 (the back of the mailer).

Aphids are the most common rose pest, and are fairly easy to control without pesticides. Spraying a hard stream of water to wash aphids off buds and branch tips is very effective. Natural enemies such as syrphid flies and soldier beetles will be attracted by the aphid population and will rapidly reduce their numbers. As a last resort, use neem oil or insecticidal soap.

Spider mite control relies on adequate irrigation, reducing dust, and conserving natural enemies, especially Minute Pirate Bugs. Overhead irrigation or washing leaves also helps. If treatment is necessary, use insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or neem oil.

Thrips are tiny rasping insects that cause distortion or brown streaks on petals. Usually the damage is minor because they are kept in check by natural enemies such as Minute Pirate Bugs. Deadhead frequently and dispose of spent blossoms. Thrips should be tolerated, if possible, because the nymphs are spider mite predators.

The Fuller rose beetle and the hoplia beetle chew holes in flowers and leaves. Hand picking, clipping off infested blooms, and using sticky material on stems are effective controls. There are no effective insecticides for either beetle. Parasitic nematodes, available from biological control suppliers, can be applied to soil to control Fuller rose beetles.

Many different caterpillars feed on rose leaves and flowers.

Hand picking and clipping infested blooms are usually sufficient controls. If treatment is necessary, use B.t. (Bacillus thuringiensis).

Disease Management Fungal diseases are the most

common disease problems, and resistance varies greatly among the different rose types. Landscape roses and glossy-leafed varieties are usually the most resistant to fungal diseases.

Sanitation practices such as pruning out diseased or damaged stems, picking up fallen leaves, and deadheading prevent disease spread. Managing water and fertilizer properly are also important. Overhead watering is an effective tool in control of powdery mildew and spider mites, but it should be completed by midday in order to avoid problems with rust and other diseases.

Many people rely on Triforine (Funginex, Orthenex) for control of fungal diseases. Triforine is, however, a Class 1 pesticide (signal word Danger) primarily because of its inhalation toxicity. There are many safer options to use.

For powdery mildew, and black spot, use household baking soda, potassium bicarbonate (Kaligreen) or neem oil. For anthracnose, no effective management tools are available, so prevention is essential. Rust should be managed through sanitation and pruning. A sulfur spray while the plant is dormant can kill overwintering spores.

Remember that safe, environmentally friendly rose care relies on healthy plants growing in a healthy soil in the right place. Enjoy your roses!

...more on Environmentally Friendly Rose Care Double Potting Saves Work and Water

Peggy Just Peterson Placer County Master Gardener

I love the look of pots on patios and decks, but for

years I didn’t have any because I couldn’t keep up with the watering requirements in our summer heat. Then I discovered a method that leaves plants looking great with water only twice a week — three times during our worst heat waves!

Pot your plant in a plain pottery or plastic pot. This pot will not be seen, so it doesn’t have to be pretty, but it must have drainage holes. Bring the level of soil in the pot to within one-half inch of the pot rim.

Now, set this pot inside a decorative pot that’s at least one inch bigger all the way around. This pot needs drainage holes, too. You may have to put your interior pot on bricks or pieces of board to get its rim to be about one-half inch lower than the rim of the outside pot.

Fill the space between the two pots with shredded bark, covering the rim of the interior pot and the top of the soil, being careful not to pile the bark against the plant’s trunk. The bark will settle, so will need to be replenished once or twice a year.

When you water, be sure you are watering the soil, not just the bark. The insulation provided by the bark will help keep your plant roots cool and comfortable, even during the hottest days of summer.

SUMMER 2001


A re you sitting in the dark trying to keep cool this

summer? What does that have to do with landscaping? Quite a bit!

Most of California experiences a Mediterranean type of climate, one with moist, cool winters and warm, dry summers. Rainfall typically occurs during late fall through early spring, but is often erratic. Drought cycles can last many years. Even in average-rainfall years, however, the primary “gardening season” has little to no rainfall. The dry season can extend from May to November.

As a result, most of our ornamental landscapes rely on a constant subsidy of irrigation water. Then comes the feeding, the mowing, and other maintenance. Where would our gardens be without these? If we add up all the gardening that goes on in Placer and Nevada Counties, we are talking a lot of resource use.

ENERGY: It takes energy (over and above the gardener’s personal energy!) to operate our equipment, pump water, synthesize fertilizers and haul landscape clippings to landfills, just to name a few. Reducing or adjusting our gardening activities will reduce the amount of energy we use. GREENWASTE: More than 30% of landfill waste is greenwaste, clippings and trimmings of landscape plants. This has to be stored or processed in some way. How much better it is to compost your own green

waste and add the result back into the garden! WATER CONSUMPTION: 40% of urban water is used to irrigate gardens and lawns in California. Much of that can be wasted in improper watering and planting water-hungry plants in an environment that is simply not suited to them. All these factors can result in wasteful consumption of resources, contributing to shortages and increased economic costs.

So What Can We Do? Plants native to our area of

California have adapted to the pattern of long dry summers and moist and cool winters. Their flowering cycles often occur in spring and late winter and become less active summer through fall. In fact, irrigation during the summer may be harmful to them.

The name for water efficient landscape design is “Xeriscape”, derived from “xeros”; Greek for dry. “Xeriscaping”, or low-water landscaping, can be colorful, beautiful and vibrant while conserving water and energy. Xeriscape plants may require more water when young. Once established, however, water needs are greatly reduced.

There are low-water plants in every landscape category. Here are just a few to get you interested!

Small Landscape Trees: Western Hackberry (Celtis reticulata); Goldenrain Tree, (Koelreuteria paniculata); Olive,

(Olea europaea); and a local favorite, Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica).

Landscape Shrubs: Artemesia, Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii); Bottlebrush (Callistemon); Wild Lilac (Ceanothus); Rock rose (Cistus); and Western Redbud (Cercis occidentalis).

Perennials: Try Coreopsis, Agapanthus, Dietes (Fortnight Lily) Gaura, Bearded Iris, Penstemons, Sedums, and Salvias, just to name a few.

Annuals that can bring color to the hottest summer months: Zinnias, Verbenas, Lobelia and Marigolds.

Lawns can be decreased in size or replaced with water-conserving grasses or lawn substitutes, such as varieties of thyme.

Many of these same plants require less fertilizer and pruning as well. Not to mention less work! Thus, conservation can be achieved with little change in the beauty and function of our garden.

Try it — I think you’ll like it!

References Landscape Plants for the Western

Regions. 1992. B. Perry. Land Design Publishing.

Water Conserving Plants and Landscapes for the Bay Area. 1990. East Bay Municipal Utility District.

Sunset Western Garden Book.. 1995. Lane Publishing, Menlo Park.

http://www.xeriscape.org/xeriscape.html

Water and Energy: Precious Resources Gay Wilhelm




T oxic chemicals found in common pesticide products

are polluting many of our area’s rivers and creeks.

Among the chemicals which pose the greatest threat to our waterways are diazinon and chlorpyrifos, frequently applied by residential pesticide users. Due to rain and overwatering, these pesticides run off lawns and gardens and enter storm drains. Runoff entering the storm drains flows directly into local waterways, untreated.

Clean water is a basic necessity for people, animals and plants. Toxins in the water — even small amounts — pose a threat to our water supply and environment. The actions of individuals can make a difference in helping keep our creeks and rivers clean.

Residents can help protect local waterways by reducing the amount of pesticides they use, preventing pesticide runoff into storm drains and wastewater, and using less-toxic pest control alternatives.

There are many ways to control pests in your yard, garden, lawn and home without polluting our water. The key is to only use non-chemical alternatives, or less toxic chemicals when pesticides are necessary. Protect the health of local waterways by using these tips the next time you work in your garden or yard:

View your garden as a habitat — both good bugs

and bad bugs are at work in your garden. Protect the beneficial species. Determine if you really have a pest problem. Many people spend time and money treating for pests they do not have, or an insect that is occurring at numbers far below damaging levels. Discourage outdoor pests by planting pest resistant or well-adapted plant varieties such as native plants, watering and fertilizing correctly, and altering the garden environment to deprive pests of food and shelter they need to thrive. Manage indoor pests by vacuuming, sponging, or sweeping. Follow by removing food sources, hiding places and plugging entryways, methods that are often safer and more effective than pesticides. If you must use a pesticide, identify your problem pest, and choose a pesticide that specifically targets the pest. Do not over apply pesticides. Read pesticide product labels carefully and follow all instructions on proper use.

Dispose of pesticides and other hazardous materials properly. Sewage treatment plants are not designed to treat for certain toxic

pesticides, including diazinon and chlorpyrifos, and dumping pesticides into the storm drain or down the sink are never options.

A listing of free local hazardous waste collection sites is provided below:

PLACER COUNTY RESIDENTS SATURDAYS ONLY,

8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Material Recovery Facility 3033 Fiddyment Road Roseville, California 95747 (916) 645-5230, ext 2013

NEVADA COUNTY RESIDENTS Saturday, September 22,

9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Eric Ruud Government Center 950 Maidu Avenue Nevada City For information, call (800) 419-2783.

If outside Placer and Nevada Counties, contact your county Solid Waste Disposal Department for information/locations for household hazardous waste disposal.

The Connection Between Water Quality and the Use and Disposal of Pesticides

Adapted from Water Wise Pest Control Program Fact Sheet: Safe Use & Disposal of Pesticides. UC IPM, UCCE Sacramento County Master Gardeners, and Sacramento Stormwater Management Program.

FINDING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS ON A PESTICIDE LABEL

Pesticide labels are required by law to show the active ingredient and its

percentage. Minimize or avoid the use of products that contain diazanon and

chlorpyrifos — these materials are polluting our waterways. Always read

the label before you buy.

SUMMER 2001


“A n ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

Most of us care about our health and practice prevention through eating a balanced diet, getting fresh air and exercise, drinking water and getting adequate rest. We strive to be healthy. Let’s talk about health as it pertains to our gardens. Plant needs are very similar to ours.

Prevention is the key to plant care. Start by buying healthy plants at the nursery. Learn about disease-resistant varieties, and find out who carries them. Plants thrive if they are planted in a suitable location, in the appropriate soil type, and are given the right amount of light, adequate (but not too much) water and nutrients.

Careful planning will prevent most plant problems. Plants that are stressed by poor care or placement are vulnerable to pest problems caused by insects or disease. Sizzling heat in the Foothills can stress plants. A good layer of compost can help keep plants cool and hydrated while providing nutrients to the soil.

If you’ve followed all the steps above and encounter damage problems in your garden, what do you do?

Consider the amount of damage and decide if it really affects your garden. We can live with some damage and still have an attractive, productive garden.

Can’t live with it? Read on.

Observation of your garden on

a regular basis is a basic tool of the gardener. (Another wise old saying: “The best fertilizer is the gardener’s shadow”.) Go out and look around your garden and at your plants at varying times of the day.

IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM The insect you see crawling on

your plant may be an innocent bystander or a beneficial insect (part of the solution). In the past, gardeners reached for the spray can as an all-purpose solution to insects in the garden. “The only good bug is a dead bug” is the mantra of a bygone time. Today, we know better.

We now know that the majority of insects in the garden are either beneficial or harmless. We know that there are safer ways to control pest damage than by incorrect use of pesticides, which often do more harm than good. Broad-spectrum pesticides are indiscriminate killers of beneficial as well as harmful insects and cause an imbalance in the natural garden environment.

If you’ve identified the pest as being harmful, there are several options available for control:

Ignore It: Accept the level of damage. Learn what the beneficial insects look like. They will feast on the harmful ones.

Squash It: This can be a very therapeutic exercise for the gardener. Box elder bugs, for example, can be lured onto a board with a little fruit smeared on it and then flattened with a fly swatter. And how about those

slugs and snails! Trap It, Wash It Off, Pick Off Foliage:

Be creative. There are many ways to trap harmful insects. White flies are attracted to yellow. Coat yellow paper with sticky stuff like Tanglefoot® or buy yellow sticky cards at the nursery. Powdery mildew can be washed off a plant when the sun is on it, reducing the severity of the infection. Pick and dispose of damaged flowers and foliage.

Spray It: Use the least toxic method that will do the job. A hard spray of water works especially well for aphids. Soap and water may work for aphids and other soft-bodied insects, but may also kill beneficial insects. Chemical sprays should be the very last option. The pest and the host plant must be listed on the pesticide label to be effective. The narrowest spectrum pesticide with the least residual effect should be used. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Always read and follow the instructions and precautions on the label.

Need more information on this subject? Master Gardeners are available to provide information. Give us a call!

REFERENCES Natural Enemies Handbook. UC ANR

Publication 3386. Pests of the Garden and Small Farm.

1999. M.L.Flint. UC ANR Publication 3332.

Pests of Landscape Trees and Shrubs. 1995. UC ANR Publication 3359.

UC Statewide Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Project at:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/

Before You Spray Kirsten Sullivan




S quash bugs and stink bugs, both sucking insects, are

common pests in the home garden. The damage they do to fruit and vegetable crops is often seen before the first bug is ever identified.

Stink bugs are named for the strong odor they give off when disturbed. They are shield-shaped with a large triangle on their backs. Squash bugs are sometimes confused with stink bugs because they can also give off an offensive smell when crushed, but they are longer and thinner than stink bugs.

Both are true bugs belonging to the Hemiptera family, which includes many plant-feeding pests. It also includes a few beneficial predators, including the two-spotted stink bug and the rough stink bug. To ensure proper identification of these insects, check out http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/.

Stink Bugs Consperse stink bugs

(Euschistus conspersus) are speckled gray and brown, and feed on fruits and vegetables. In pears and peaches, affected fruit develops “dimples” or depressions around feeding sites. Tomatoes remain smooth, but small green or yellow discolorations appears on the fruit. In both cases, the area beneath the blemishes remains firm and fails to ripen.

Another common variety of the stink bug is the harlequin bug, Murgantia histrionica, with distinctive black and red markings. The harlequin bug prefers vegetables in the mustard

family, such as broccoli, cabbage, and radishes. They leave yellow or white blemishes on the leaves where they feed. Heavy infestations will cause the plant to wither and die.

Squash Bugs The squash bug, Anasa tristis,

is gray-brown with orange around the edge of the body. It feeds on all curcubit crops, but is especially fond of squash and pumpkins. The first sign of damage is small brown specks on the leaves. Left unchecked, the leaves and vines will eventually turn yellow and die. Small plants are particularly susceptible.

Control Methods Using resistant varieties of

plants minimizes the need for control. Some varieties of squash, including Butternut, Royal Acorn and Sweet Cheese, are resistant to squash bugs.

To prevent squash bug infestations, consider applying and removing row covers before the first bloom. Look for shiny brown egg masses on the underside of leaves and destroy them.

To control stink bug infestations, look on leaf surfaces for clusters of barrel-shaped eggs to smash. Check egg masses for darker colored parasitized eggs, and be sure not to destroy them unless there is a jagged emergence hole. If they are not parasitized, squash them!

Growing insectary plants near susceptible crops will provide nectar and pollen to attract natural enemies such as the tachinid fly, Trichopoda pennipes

(squash bug), or the parasitic wasp, Trissolcus basalis (stink bug). Other plants, such as nasturtiums and marigolds, may deter squash bugs. Attracting birds to the garden may also be helpful in keeping bug populations under control.

Garlic-based materials can be useful repellents for both kinds of bugs. Botanical pesticides such as neem-based materials and pyrethrin can be effective, but should be used as a last resort. Pheromone traps are available for detection of stink bug migrations.

As always, good cultural practices are essential. During the growing season, remove weeds, dead leaves and garden debris to deprive stink bugs of a place to hide. Squash bugs can be attracted to shingles or boards set out near squash or pumpkin plants. The bugs can be harvested or vacuumed up and destroyed each morning. After the growing season, reduce over-wintering hiding places by removing all debris, and destroying crop residue by disking or composting.

References Natural Enemies Handbook. 2000. UC

ANR Publication 3386. Pests of the Garden and Small Farm.

1999. M.L.Flint. UC ANR Publication 3332.

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/ http://www.aces.edu/department/ipm/

HMEVEG1.htm

Stink Bugs and Squash Bugs in the Garden Elaine Haire


SUMMER 2001


July Summer has arrived at last.

Annuals are in bloom, vegetables are making progress. Watering and pest control are topping the list of things to do.

Early morning watering, giving plants a long drink,

is best because there is less evaporation

from hot sun, and leaves have a chance to dry

well before evening, reducing the chance of fungus invasions.

Catch weeds as they first appear and you'll make the task easier, as well as preventing them from robbing your choice plants of water and nutrients.

Harvest promptly while vegetables are young and tender. They'll not only taste better, but this will encourage continued production.

If you want to increase production from melons, pumpkins and squash, use a soft brush to pollinate the flowers. Gather pollen from male flowers and dust it on the female flowers, those that have tiny embryo fruits at their petal bases.

Dig and divide iris and bulbs that have become overcrowded.

August Watering still tops the list of

garden chores. Do it early in the day, give plants a deep soaking. With lawns, if the soil is shallow and water runs off, turn off sprinklers until the

water has been absorbed, then start again. Deep watering encourages deep root growth which helps to carry plants through extreme heat.

Keep after insects. Soapy solutions will handle all but the heaviest infestations. If you decide on chemical warfare, read the label carefully and follow instructions exactly. Don't feel that if a little works, more will be better!

Pick off faded flowers and harvest vegetables while they are still young and tender. This will mean more blooms and more production.

Feed roses lightly. Keep faded blooms picked off, prune suckers and unwanted branches to keep the bushes in top form.

Continue feeding begonias, fuchsias, annuals and container plants. Azaleas, rhododendron and camellias should get their last feeding of the season. Greedy chrysanthemums can be fertilized until the buds start to open.

Think ahead to the fall garden; order bulbs, plan for shrubs and plants that will give color to brighten the dark months.

September This month is one of the

happiest in the garden. Summer heat is easing, but the soil remains warm while nights are cool. Shrubs, trees and perennials set out now are spared the stress of high heat, and can get well established before winter sets in.

Cool season flowers and vegetables can go in. Properly protected with mulch and/or row covers, they'll continue to perform for a long time.

When you pull out the remnants of summer annuals and vegetables, add them to the compost pile. Shred them if you can, since small pieces will decompose faster. (You can rent shredders if you don't have one.)

Spring flowering bulbs can go in the ground, except for tulips and hyacinths. They'll benefit from a few weeks in the refrigerator (NOT the freezer) to help their dormancy.

This is an ideal month to sow a new lawn. You can also sow seeds of California poppies, Clarkia and African daisies, and set out transplants of cool weather annuals such as pansies, violas, calendula, etc.

Clear out debris, dig and rejuvenate perennial beds.

Check tools that may need repair or replacement.

In the Garden Helen Bale




PLACER/NEVADA COUNTY RESIDENTS: Placer and Nevada County residents can still receive The Curious Gardener by mail free of charge. County residents are encouraged, however, to subscribe by e-mail to save postage costs.

OUT-OF-COUNTY RESIDENTS: Subscribe to this newsletter by paying $6.00 per year (checks made payable to UC Regents) by mail, or free by e-mail by contacting the Cooperative Extension Office in Placer County:

UCCE Placer County 11477 E Avenue Auburn, CA 95603 (530) 889-7385 E-Mail: [email protected]

T he award-winning Curious Gardener is published

quarterly by the University of California Cooperative Extension and the Master Gardeners of Placer and Nevada Counties.

COMPUTER LAYOUT AND DESIGN

Nancy Jane Campbell (Administrative Clerk, Placer County)

Production Information EDITORIAL BOARD

Placer County Master Gardeners Nira Gibson*

Nevada County Master Gardeners Ron Deiro

Liana Mackey JoAnn Moore

* Point leader for this issue

Subscribing

The University of California prohibits discrimination against or harassment of any person employed by or seeking employment with the University on the basis of race, color, national origin, religion, sex, physical or mental disability, medical condition (cancer-related or genetic characteristics), ancestry, marital status, age, sexual orientation, citizenship, or status as a covered veteran (special disabled veteran, Vietnam-era veteran or any other veteran who served on active duty during a war or in a campaign or expedition for which a campaign badge has been authorized). University Policy is intended to be consistent with the provisions of applicable State and Federal laws. Inquiries regarding the University's nondiscrimination policies may be directed to the Affirmative Action/Staff Personnel Services Director, University of California, Agriculture and Natural Resources, 1111 Franklin, 6th Floor, Oakland, CA 94607-5200; (510) 987-0096.

United States Department of Agriculture, University of California, Placer & Nevada Counties cooperating.

Cynthia E. Fake Horticulture and Small Farms Advisor

Martha E. Jacoby Program Representative

momentum of fire as it burns towards your property.

As a basic placement guideline, use only firewise plants within a minimum 30 foot radius from the house (Zone 1). Visualize a second circle extending out to a 60-foot radius (Zone 2). This is where the not-so-firewise plants live. We often love at least one pyrophyte plant or tree. Great! Plant these sparsely, as far from structures as possible, preferably 100 feet or more away (Zone 3). (See diagram to right.)

Experts suggest a barrier of lawn, rock, or “firewise” ground cover in Zone 1. Mow grasses, which can rapidly spread fire to larger plants and trees, to a height of four to six inches. Remove dead plant material from larger

plants and limb up trees at least 10 feet above the ground to minimize the fire ladder scenario.

In future issues of The Curious Gardener, we will expand on this topic and explore other aspects of firewise landscaping.

REFERENCES Firewise is Fire Safe.

Nevada County Firewise Council.

Firewise Plants for Western Nevada County. 2000. L. Lorenson. FireSafe Council of Nevada County and UCCE Master Gardeners.

1 Lists of plants in these categories and publications on firewise landscaping principles are available at UCCE Master Gardener Offices and most local and CDF fire stations.

...more on Let’s Talk “Firewise Landscaping”

ZONE 1

ZONE 2

ZONE 3

SUMMER 2001


2001 Calendar BY Karen Holt


Events and Activities: Thursdays (market days), 3:00 to 6:00 p.m.

Information Booth at Penn Valley Growers’ Market. Gateway Park, Penn Valley.

Saturdays (market days), 9:00 a.m. to 12 noon Information Booth at Grass Valley Growers’ Market. Gate 4, Nevada County Fairground, Grass Valley.

Saturdays, Year Round, 8:00 a.m. to 12 noon Auburn Farmers’ Market: Courthouse parking lot off Auburn-Folsom Road, Auburn.

Saturdays, Year Round, 10:00 a.m. to 12 noon “Master Gardeners and Friends” Radio Show on KNCO/830 AM. Grass Valley.

JULY 14 (Saturday)

Sierra Foothills Iris Society Rhizome Sale, Raley’s, Auburn. For more information, call (530) 885-7822.

21 (Saturday) — 9:00 a.m. to 12 noon Starthistle Workshop, Sierra Foothill Research and Extension Center, Browns Valley. To pre-register and for more information, call Roger Ingram at (530) 889-7385.

28 (Saturday) — 2:00 to 4:00 p.m. Lake of the Sky Garden Club Annual Garden Tour, Tahoe City area. For more info, call (530) 546-4429.

AUGUST 8 — 12 (Wednesday through Sunday)

Nevada County Fair: Master Gardener Information Booth/Educational Exhibit/Daily Demonstration Workshops, Grass Valley Fairgrounds. For more Nevada County Fair information/events, call (530) 273-9561.

18 (Saturday)

Sierra Foothills Iris Society Rhizome Sale, Grass Valley. Call (530) 885-7822 for more information.

21 (Tuesday) — 12:00 noon Flower and Plant Entry Deadline for Gold Country Fair. Call (530) 823-4533 for more information.

SEPTEMBER 6 — 9 (Thursday through Sunday)

Gold Country Fair, Gold Country Fairgrounds, Auburn. Flower and plant entries close on Tuesday, August 21 at 12:00 noon. Call (530) 823-4533 for more information.

8 (Saturday) — 8:30 a.m. to ?? Colfax Founders Day/Colfax Garden Club Plant Sale, downtown Colfax. For more information, call (530) 346-2320.

17 (Monday) and 22 (Saturday), 9:00 to 11:00 a.m. Propagation Workshop, NID Demonstration Garden, Grass Valley. REGISTRATION REQUIRED, limited enrollment. Propagation by cuttings, instructions will be mailed prior to class. $5.00 fee includes materials and more cuttings. Please call (530) 273-4563 for more information or to register.

28 — 30 (Friday through Sunday) Auburn Home Show, Gold Country Fairgrounds, Auburn.

OCTOBER 6 (Saturday) — 9:00 a.m. to 12 noon

Nevada County Master Gardeners Fall Plant Sale, NID Demonstration Garden, Grass Valley. Plants selected for fall planting, gardening tips on native plants, cover crops, sowing wildflowers. For more information, call (530) 273-4563.

13 (Saturday) — 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Auburn Garden Club Festival and Plant Sale, Auburn-Placer County Library, Auburn. For more information, call (530) 887-0559.

14 (Sunday) — 12 noon to 4:00 p.m. Gold Country Rose Society Rose Show, Rose Room, Auburn City Hall, Auburn. For more information, call (916) 663-1689, or visit their website at: www.geocities.com/rainforest/wetlands/1395.

20 (Saturday) — 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Auburn Community Festival, Recreation Park, Auburn. For more information, call the Auburn Recreation District at (530) 885-8461, or visit their website at: www.aub.com/ard.



Classes and Short Courses REGULAR CLASSES: Sierra College, Rocklin Campus

Regular classes begin August 20th. Call Rocklin Campus (916) 781-0430 to register for all classes listed below, or go to: www.sierra.cc.ca.us

Introduction to Horticulture M-W, 9 to 10:15 a.m.; or Wednesdays, 6 to 9 p.m.

Plant Identification M, 11 a.m. to 12:50 p.m. and W, 11 a.m. to 1:50 p.m.; or Tuesdays, 6 to 8:50 p.m.

Landscape Design Tu, 8 to 9:50 a.m. and Th, 8 to 10:50 a.m.

Advanced Landscape Design M-W, 6 to 8:50 p.m.

Landscape Maintenance Th, 6 to 9 p.m.

Pest Management Tu, 11 a.m. to 1:50 p.m.

Xeriscape Planting (Water Management and the Landscape)

Th, 11 a.m. to 1:50 p.m.

Sierra College, Nevada County Campus Regular classes begin August 20th. Call Nevada County Campus at (530) 274-5302 to register.

Introduction to Horticulture Tu, 9 to 11:50 a.m.

Plant Identification Tu, 1 to 3:50 p.m.

Landscape Design Tu, 8 to 9:50 a.m. and Th, 8 to 10:50 a.m.

Arboriculture (Principles of Tree Care and Selection)

Tu, 9 to 10:50 a.m., and Th, 9 to 11:50 a.m. Nursery Practices

W, 9 to 11:50 a.m.

WEEKEND AND SHORT CLASSES: Sierra College, Rocklin Campus

Call Rocklin Campus (916) 781-0430 to register for classes listed below.

Gardening with Color — class on planning and installing perennial gardens. Fridays, September 14, 21 and 28, 9:00 to 11:50 a.m.. Vegetable Gardening — Fridays, October 5, 12 and 19, 9:00 to 11:50 a.m. Pruning Ornamentals — Fridays, November 16 and 30, and December 7, 9:00 to 11:50 a.m.

Sierra College, Nevada County Campus Call (530) 274-5302 to register for classes listed below.

Gardening with Color — class on planning and installing perennial gardens. Fridays, September 14, 21 and 28, 9:00 to 11:50 a.m.. Vegetable Gardening — Fridays, October 5, 12 and 19, 9:00 to 11:50 a.m. Pruning Ornamentals — Fridays, November 16 and 30, and December 7, 9:00 to 11:50 a.m.

...more 2001 Calendar of Events

CALENDAR DATES If your non-profit Gardening Group has educational events for the

public scheduled and wish to publicize the activity, please submit such information (including day/date, time, location, fee if any, contact

person and phone number, etc.) to The Curious Gardener. Quarterly deadlines for inclusion: March 1, June 1, September 1,

and December 1.

YELLOW STARTHISTLE BOOKLET AVAILABLE

A comprehensive manual on yellow starthistle is now available at the Placer County Cooperative Extension office. The manual contains information on introduction and spread of the weed, biology and ecology, control methods (including management, mechanical, biological, and chemical), and developing a strategic plan.

Information from the manual was derived from Weed Research Information Center (website: wric.ucdavis.edu). The Placer County Cooperative Extension office and the Nevada-Placer Weed Management Area published the manual.

The manual is FREE to Placer or Nevada County residents and can be picked up (no mailing) at the Placer County UC Cooperative Extension office.

Yellow Starthistle Workshop July 21st !! (see calendar on page 13)

SUMMER 2001


ARTHROPOD PEST RECOMMENDED CONTROL LAST RESORT PESTICIDE Aphids

Feed on tender young tissue causing distortion

Spray off with a hard stream of water Many natural enemies

Insecticidal soap Neem oil

Spider Mites Tiny eight legged arthropods that suck plant juices causing stippling and yellowing

Conserve natural enemies, esp. Minute Pirate Bugs Reduce dust Overhead irrigate, wash leaves

Insecticidal soap (with or without sulfur) Horticultural oil Neem oil

Thrips Tiny rasping insects that cause distortion or brown streaks on petals; attracted to fragrant and light colored blossoms.

Conserve natural enemies Deadhead and dispose of blooms frequently Tolerate minor damage because nymphs are predators of spider mites

No effective insecticides

BEETLES Fuller Rose Beetle Hoplia beetle Rose curculio

Hand picking Clipping off infested blooms Use sticky material on stems Parasitic nematodes applied to soil help control Fuller rose beetles

No effective insecticides for Fuller rose and Hoplia beetles

Caterpillars Many species

Hand picking Clipping off infested blooms

B.t. (Bacillus thuringiensis) microbial insecticide

DISEASE SANITATION AND PREVENTION PREVENTIVE TREATMENT Powdery Mildew

(Sphaerotheca pannosa var. rosae) Overhead sprinkle or wash leaves at midday Prune and dispose of infected leaves and canes promptly

4 tsp. baking soda + 2 Tbs. narrow range horticultural oil per gallon of water Potassium bicarbonate (Kaligreen) Neem oil

Anthracnose (Sphaceloma rosarum)

Plant in full sun Keep foliage dry - avoid overhead watering Prevent water splash Prune and dispose of infected leaves and canes

No effective management tools

Black Spot (Diplocarpon rosae)

Do not allow foliage to remain wet after midday Provide good air circulation Prune and dispose of infected leaves and canes promptly

4 tsp. baking soda + 2 Tbs. narrow range horticultural oil per gallon of water Potassium bicarbonate (Kaligreen) Neem oil

Rust (Phragmidium disciflorum)

Avoid overhead watering Prune back severely infected canes

Sulfur spray while the plant is dormant

LOW TOXICITY ROSE CARE

References UC IPM Pest Notes on Roses. UC ANR Publications 7463,

7465, and 7466. Healthy Roses. 2000. M.L. Flint and J.F. Karlik. UC IPM

Publication 21589.

http://ccvipmp.ucdavis.edu/insects/index.html. Click on

“Good Guys” for photos of many natural enemies. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.home.html.

Click on the pest and go to biological control to find natural enemies.

Documents

Extension and the UC Master Gardeners of Placer and nevada ...goodlifegarden.ucdavis.edu/media/growing/placer_summer_2001.pdf · down side? A world where ... Extension and the UC