Upload
daniel-antunes-1011
View
224
Download
0
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
7/29/2019 Extended Abstract 48803
1/10
D.F.Antunes Physical Modelling of an Artificial Surf Reef in S. Pedro do Estoril
September 2009
Instituto Superior Tcnico | 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal
Physical Modelling of an Artificial Surf Reef in S. Pedrodo Estoril.
D. F. Antunes
Eng. Mecnica
Instituto Superior Tcnico,
1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal
ABSTRACT:
In one of the tanks with beaters for waves of the LNEC, a reduced scale physical model with
30mx30m, was built for the study of the sea agitation in an artificial surf reef . The model reproduces
the bathymetry of the place, the topography of costal cliffs, and also the reef drawing.
The objective is to test the reef drawing in the physical model, in order to optimize it according to the
respective drawing parameters. It also intends to secure that the physical model is loyal to the
agitation in the place, since the model will be an object of a public consultation in the context of the
evaluation process of the environmental impact.
This physical model culminates one year of data and numerical studies gathering on the reef model,
including the establishment of the climatology, the waviness in the place, and the test of several reef
drawings. The drawing introduced in the model is the one, that according to the numerical
simulations, produces better quality waves for the surf practice. For this, it will be necessary to measure the wave
quality with 5 parameters: - speed of the wave (peel angle), - form of the tube (Number of Irribarren), - wave height, -
wall (ramp for manoeuvres), - wave quality and regularity along the reef. The wave parameters will be valued for each
series of per-specified conditions, of the wave height , of the tide height, of the incident angle of the waviness and of the
wave period, being enough for the analysis to study monochromatic waves. These 5 parameters will also be compared
with the measurements effectuated in the LNEC waves tank.
Key words: Surf Parameters, Peel Angle, Evaluation, Wave Quality Evaluation methodology, Distortion, Perspective
geometry, Coordinate transformation, Unit to score conversion, Photogrammetry.
1.Introduction.
This theory main subject is the Physical Modelling of
an artificial surf reef, in So Pedro do Estoril, Portugal.
This work intends to study the quality of the sea
agitation on an artificial reef using the physical existent
model in the National Laboratory of Civil Engineering
(L.N.E.C.), located in Lisbon, Portugal. This project is
financially supported by the Cascais Town Hall.
Figure 1-S. Pedro ASR Perfect Wave in the wave tank during a test on the LNEC, in Lisbon, Portugal
mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]7/29/2019 Extended Abstract 48803
2/10
D.F.Antunes Physical Modelling of an Artificial Surf Reef in S. Pedro do Estoril
September 2009
Instituto Superior Tcnico | 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal
2. Application in the Main Project.
A protocol amongst the CMC, LNEC, IST and FCUL
was signed on the 16th
of November of 2006, in order
to provide S. Pedro do Estoril, a 300m long World
Class Wave, using big solid rock blocks as raw
Material. This Theory intends to study the results onthe best waves to Surf in the S. Pedro ASR, according
to the tests[ made in L.N.E.C.
3. Product Development and
Entrepreneurship (PDE).
As an Introduction to the central subject of this theory,
a theoretical base is presented, as well as the framing
of this dissertation in the extend of the PDEsubject. A
Study was taken based on the perspective of the ASR
seen as a Product, and the Costumer explicit and
hidden needs were identified.
This study contains the enormous set of entities who
directly and indirectly exist and are rising up in the surf
Market. If all of these entities are gathered, they
actually make part of a important piece in the
Economy.
Figure 2- Indirect users on an ASR.
Is S. Pedro a good Spot for the implementation of
an ASR?
The answer lies on this PDE study, and is based on
the fact that this coast band is very consistent in terms
of swell, and has a favourable geographical disposal
but the main problem lies on the crowd. The need of aWorld Class wave in this spot is also an important
need.
The big amount of medium quality waves is shown in
Figure3.
Figure 3- Big amount of Surf Spots in the Estoril Coast region
This Sport is Booming, and this statement taken from
the EUROSIMA after an Inquiry to a set of young
persons, aged between 15 and 25 year Old, about
the next Sport to try, 90% answered SURF confirms it.
The Relation between the good and bad aspects about
the existing waves is shown in the next diagram.
Figure 4- Good versus Bad aspects on the existing waves.
The set of needs is shown in the following diagram:
Figure 5- Explicit and Hidden needs on S. Pedro ASR.
Since the origins of Man History, Sports have a very
important paper in the Society, and giant support
ASR
A.Surf
Session
Management
Whats GOODabout the
existent Waves?
Whats BADabout the
existent Waves?
Explicit Needs Hidden Needs
-To protect the Costal Belt.
-Overcoming the Crowd.
-The need of a World ClassWave.
-The spot needs an interactiveattraction.
-Develop the spot maintainingits natural Beauty and
environment.
-Development of the Fauna and Floraon this lifeless spot .
-Its a great way to suppot the Sports, motto of the Cascais Town Hall.
-Its a way to show up Portugals
creative and Techneological Spirit .-Makes of this Spot a Potential
investments centre.
-Strong Turistic Attractive. To pointout places that were developed on an
exemplary form thanks to have aWorld class wave:In Portugal
(Peniche, Sagres and Ericeira) andalso in the rest of the World
(Mundaka in the Basque Country,Kirra in the Australian Gold Coast,J.Bay in South Africa, and also the
Landaise Region in France)
7/29/2019 Extended Abstract 48803
3/10
D.F.Antunes Physical Modelling of an Artificial Surf Reef in S. Pedro do Estoril
September 2009
Instituto Superior Tcnico | 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal
infrastructures were created in order to improve its
quality.
The surf problem is based on its extreme dependency
on Natural conditions, such as the Waves, the Wind,
and for last, a factor where Human intervention is
Possible the, the Bathymetry.If Human intervention is possible, to improve the
bottoms of the sea, the creation of an artificial Surf
Reef, is a project that reduces the dependency of the
natural conditions for a Sport, and therefore can be
compared to the construction of a Football stadium.
In order to understand the ASR, and having theoretical
basis of the variables on demand, a short description
is done about what is the surf and the ASRs, as well
as the several ways to take advantage and enjoying
playfully and economically the ASRs.
The main activities taken on an ASR are several such
as:
-Bodysurf
-Bodyboard
-Kneeboard-
-Kayaksurf
-Windsurf
-Longboard
-Paddlesurf
-Shortboard
-Tow in
-Spearfishing
-Snorkeling.
-Fishing
There is also given a little of the surf and ASRs
historical framing, which points to the fishing ASR in
the Algarve, on the south region of Portugal, as well
as the first ASRs in the world, used in the Punic war by
the Romans for costal territorial defence.
4. The Physical Model:
In this chapter, here is let know the physical model, his
functioning, as well as aspects that might bring him
eventually improvements.
It is set in the LNEC, and was built in a 1:30 Scale. In
this model it is possible to control the tides, and the
wave beater can produce waves from 1 to 4 meters,
and Wave period of 11, 15 and 19 seconds.
The tests equipments are mainly:
Figure 3-A-Hydraulic wave Beater; B-Wave Height sensors;
C-Plate and guides set:
The two plates were assembled in order to eliminate
major wave diffraction.
The reef is 6,66m long, 1,33m wide, and has a 4,3
slope.
Figure 6- Reef dimensions.
The entire set can reproduce swell from two directions,
but the reef is located on a 30 peel angle and is
positioned always in this position.
The top view of the entire set is show in Figure 4
Figure 7- Total set top view and wave beater disposals.
7/29/2019 Extended Abstract 48803
4/10
D.F.Antunes Physical Modelling of an Artificial Surf Reef in S. Pedro do Estoril
September 2009
Instituto Superior Tcnico | 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal
5. Technical Procedure:
The technical data is obtained photographically, and
also from the control Tower, connected to the wave
height sensors and wave beaters.
The investigators chose a spot over the reef on aladder, and take sequential pictures over the different
test as shown in Figure 5. A video Camera is also
recording the whole tests, for subsequent reviews.
Figure 8- Investigators physical disposal.
The collected data is later analysed and treated
according to a theoretical evaluation method for the
various tests.
6. The theoretical Evaluation Method
MTMAQO:
According to this evaluation method, there were
created evaluation parameters, described, scheduled,
and valued in the form to be able to be quantified.
Therefore was created an analysis mechanism for the
parameters obtained experimentally. This mechanism,
was created by the author, whom it allows through a
quality evaluation theoretical model, to obtain a wave
quality quantification.
This model is called by Theoretical Model of wave
quality Evaluation Mechanism and its Portuguese
minor name is MTMAQO.
In a first phase of the model MTMAQO application, it
is possible to obtain an evaluation, based on the
conjugation of several evaluated parameters. Theselevel one parameters are in this ASR specific case, 11
surf Parameters. The collected data analysis, sets on
converting measured parameter values into parameter
SCORES on each test.
So, the first step on the MTMAQO, is to convert the
values of the parameters into SCORES. The SCORE
has a 0 to 10 Scale of importance.
In a more advanced phase application of the
theoretical model, the several SCORE parameters, are
valued to a specific Level two evaluation. The
importance of each level one parameter is set on a
table, and a conjugated SCORE is obtained according
to the importance weight of each level one parameter
SCORE. in the second phase, a Specific subject
evaluation is defined.
On the same basis, and managing, the several level
two evaluations, the importance weight of each, is set,and on a conjugation of these level two evaluations, a
level tree evaluation is obtained, in a way that
translates the final quality of the wave
On this last application of study, there are presented
analogies to several levels of evaluation of the model,
that all combined in the end, provide a final Evaluation
for waves produced on the tests as shown on Figure 6.
Figure 9- The MTMAQO evaluation Pyramid. Level one, twoand three.
7. Level One Surf Parameters:
Several problems show up when intending to SCORE
the eleven level one parameters.
-PA: Peel Angle, is the angle between the wave line
and the foam line. It sets the speed of the wave.
Figure 10- Variable peel Angles in a Natural Surf Reef , inGland, Indonesia.
-TUBO: Tube, It provides an evaluation of the tube
type.
-HEIGHT or H: Provides the height of the wave
Figure 11- Measuring Wave height
http://coconutgirlwireless.files.wordpress.com/2007/08/wave-height.gif7/29/2019 Extended Abstract 48803
5/10
D.F.Antunes Physical Modelling of an Artificial Surf Reef in S. Pedro do Estoril
September 2009
Instituto Superior Tcnico | 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal
-WALL: Means the available surface for manoeuvres.
-Q&R: It provides a measurement of the wave Quality
and Regularity along the ASR.
-BW: Back Wash, is a wave collision phenomenal.
-CF: Collision on the reef. This parameter presents the
danger of crashing.-START: It represents the beginning of the wave, and
the difficulty on the drop.
-MOVE: It describes the comfort and mobility inside
the surf spot.
-P. Wave Period, is the time gap between two waves.
-TIDE: The tide has effects on the waves
8.Data Analysis:
8.1 Unit to SCORE conversion
The results obtained from the tests, hold, the
respective physical units, namely HEIGHT in meter
and PA in degrees.
In order to be able to attribute these parameters an
evaluation (SCORE) on a 0 to 10 scale, it is necessary
to convert his physical unity (UNIT) value into the
SCORE scale, and this way it is possible to use the
MTMQAO.
This conversion method, consists in expressing a
function, which defines a value of classification
(SCORE), on basis of the value of the physicist (UNIT)
unity. Therefore:
SCORE=f(unit) [eq.1]
with the intention of obtaining the conversion function
f, the method of the polynomial interpolation is used
on basis of some reference values. These reference
values, are initially defined by the maximum physical
unity of note SCORE=10, the minimum value
SCORE=0, as well as the limit for acceptable value
SCORE=5.
Afterwards, other intermediate values, are defined to
translate a more refined behaviour of the function.
Depending on the values, so can be possible to define
the conversion in one single polynomial function, or a
on a set of functions divided by regions defined by as
many interpolation polynomial of ordern as possible,
depending on the values. A graphical display is carried
out with polynomial functions, and an analogical
SCORE function is obtained.
8.1.1 HEIGHT SCORE
For the height score, a single polynomial Function isenough to define the behaviour of this unit conversion.
The reference values are:
- Maximum SCORE=10, H=3 m, this value is
attributed on basis of the initial objective, in what it
takes this ASR objective on the production of a World
Class Wave, in which the ideal size for professional
surfers is 3 m high waves.- Minimum SCORE=0, H=0m logically, as there are
no waves, the classification is null.
- Acceptable limit SCORE=5, H=0,5m the least size
in order to exist the minimum conditions for the
practice of this surf sports is the half meter.
Adding some more values to improve the function
behaviour, a values table is obtained, and the
interpolation is taken on the basis of this values as
show in the following Table1 and Figure 7.
Table 1- HEIGHT reference and function SCORES.
Figure 12- Wave HEIGHT Score plot.
According to this results, the order 5 polynomial
Function obtained for Wave HEIGHT SCORE is:
F(H)=SCORE= 0,0487(H)5 - 0,6591(H)4 + 3,3812(H)3- 9,2585(H)2 + 14,677(H) - 0,9725 [eq. 2]
8.1.2 PA SCORE.
The same reasoning is taken upon the peel angle, but
this function has a more variable behaviour, what
makes it a function divided by 3 polynomial functions.
- Maximum SCORE=10, PA=30 this value was
attributed on basis of the ASR objective: the
construction of a world class Wave, in which the ideal
angle for professional surfers is of 30 , and is also the
limit angle. Below this value it is very hard to surf.
H, Altura da onda real
(m)
SCORE atribudo
(0 a 10)
SCORE dado pela
funo aproximada f(H)
SCORE =
erro mximo
0 0 -0,97 0,97
0,1 0,1 0,41 0,31
0,2 0,5 1,62 1,12
0,3 2 2,68 0,68
0,4 4 3,62 0,38
0,5 5 4,43 0,57
1 7,8 7,22 0,58
1,5 8,5 8,66 0,16
2 9 9,41 0,41
2,5 9,5 9,70 0,20
3 10 9,47 0,53
4 7 7,14 0,14
5 4 3,85 0,15
1,12
7/29/2019 Extended Abstract 48803
6/10
D.F.Antunes Physical Modelling of an Artificial Surf Reef in S. Pedro do Estoril
September 2009
Instituto Superior Tcnico | 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal
- Minimum SCORE=0, PA=0 logically, if the wave
bursts all at the same time, the classification is null.
- Acceptable limit SCORE=5, PA=60 the acceptable
is 60 , since for more than that the wave becomes
very slow.
The reference Values, as well as the 3 function plots,are shown on Table 2 and Figure 8.
Table 2- PA reference and function SCORES.
Figure 13- PA SCORE plot.
According to this results, the 3 polynomial Functions
obtained for Peel Angle PA is:
SCORE=f1(PA) if 23>PA>0 ,
SCORE=f2(PA) if 30>PA>23 ,
SCORE=f3(PA) if 30>PA>90
f(PA)=
f1(PA)= 0,0012*(PA)^2 - 0,0126*(PA) + 0,1053
if 23>PA>0
f2(PA)=(-0,0378*(PA)^3)+(3,1691*(PA) 2)-
(86,54*(PA)+774,38 if 30>PA>23
f3(PA) = (0,0015*(PA) 2)-0,3561*(PA) +19,675)
if 30>PA>90 [eq.3]
8.2 Importance of each parameter on the Level two
evaluation.
In this level two evaluation, there was given a specific
evaluation for the:
-Security S
-Beginner surfer level NA
-Regular surfer level NM
-Professional surfer level NP
-Visual Impact an Touristic investment potential POT
In order to provide a level two SCORE, weights are
attributed to each parameter, with the intention of
gather the influence of each level one parameter on
the level two evaluation. This weights were attributed
by the author, but the MTMAQO, has flexibility, for any
investigator values attribution.The Values, and equation for each level two
evaluation are shown in Tables 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7.
Table 3- Security analysis.
S=((10-PA)*0,1)+((10-TUBO)*0,1)+((10-HEIGHT)*0,12)+((10-WALL)*0,05)+Q&R*0,05)
+(BW*0,07)+(CF*0,19)+(START*0,1)+(MOVE*0,05)+(P*0,02)+(TIDE*0,15) [eq.4]
Table 4- Learning level analysis.
NA=((10-PA)*0,05)+((10-TUBO)*0,2)+((10-HEIGHT)*0,13)+((10-WALL)*0,1+(Q&R*0,1)
+(BW*0,05)+(CF*0,1)+(START*0,15)+(MOVE*0,05)+(P*0,02)+(TIDE*0,05) [eq.5]
Table 5- Professional level analysis.
NP=(PA*0,15)+(TUBO*0,25)+(HEIGHT*0,21)+(WALL*0,1)+(Q&R*0,08)+(BW*0,02)+
(CF*0,05)+(START*0,02)+(MOVE*0,02)+(P*0,05)+(TIDE*0,05) [eq. 6]
Table 6- Medium level analysisThis table contains averagevalues on tables 4 and 5.
NM=(PA*0,1)+(TUBO*0,225)+(HEIGHT*0,17)+(WALL*0,1)+(Q&R*0,09)+(BW*0,035)+
(CF*0,075)+(START*0,085)+(MOVE*0,035)+(P*0,035)+(TIDE*0,05) [eq.7]
Peel Angle ( )
SCORE atribudo
(0 a 10)
SCORE dado pela funo
aproximada f(PA)
score = erro
mximo
0 0,1 -0,013 0,087
10 0,12 0,107 0,013
15 0,2 0,257 0,057
20 0,3 0,467 0,167
23 0,5 0,501 0,001
24 0,8 0,274 0,526
25 1 0,942 0,058
28 6 6,049 0,049
29 9 8,029 0,971
30 10 10,342 0,342
35 9 9,049 0,049
40 8 7,831 0,169
50 6 5,620 0,380
60 5 3,709 1,291
65 2 2,866 0,866
70 1 2,098 1,098
90 0,1 -0,224 0,124
y = 0,0012x2 -
0,0126x + 0,1053
0
0,1
0,2
0,3
0,4
0,5
0,6
0 10 20 30
y = -0,0378x3 + 3,1691x2 -
86,546x + 774,38
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
0 20 40
y = 0,0015x2 - 0,3561x
+ 19,675
-2
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
0 50 100
Weight %
1 10-PA 0,10 10,00
2 10-TUBO 0,10 10,00
3 10-HEIGHT 0,12 12,00
4 10-WALL 0,05 5,00
5 Q&R 0,05 5,00
6 BW 0,07 7,00
7 10-CF 0,19 19,00
8 START 0,10 10,00
9 MOVE 0,05 5,00
10 P 0,02 2,00
11 10-TIDE 0,15 15,00
SUM= 1,00 100,00
Quality on Security
weight %
1 10-PA 0,05 5
2 10-TUBO 0,2 20
3 10-HEIGHT 0,13 13
4 10-WALL 0,1 10
5 Q&R 0,1 10
6 BW 0,05 5
7 CF 0,1 10
8 START 0,15 15
9 MOVE 0,05 5
10 P 0,02 2
11 10-TIDE 0,05 5
SUM= 1,00 100
Quality level Aprendizagem
Weight %
1 PA 0,15 15
2 TUBO 0,25 25
3 HEIGHT 0,21 21
4 WALL 0,1 10
5 Q&R 0,08 8
6 BW 0,02 2
7 CF 0,05 5
8 START 0,02 2
9 MOVE 0,02 2
10 P 0,05 5
11 TIDE 0,05 5
SUM= 1,00 100
Quality level Profissional
Weight %
1 PA 0,225 22,5
2 TUBO 0,17 17
3 HEIGHT 0,1 10
4 WALL 0,09 9
5 Q&R 0,035 3,5
6 BW 0,075 7,5
7 CF 0,085 8,5
8 START 0,035 3,5
9 MOVE 0,035 3,5
10 P 0,05 5
11 TIDE 1 100
SUM= 1,90 190
Quality level Mdio
7/29/2019 Extended Abstract 48803
7/10
D.F.Antunes Physical Modelling of an Artificial Surf Reef in S. Pedro do Estoril
September 2009
Instituto Superior Tcnico | 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal
Table 7- POT analysis.
POT=(PA*0,02)+(TUBO*0,18)+(HEIGHT*0,2)+(WALL*0,12)+(Q&R*0,3)+(BW*0,02)+
(CF*0,02)+(START*0,02)+(MOVE*0,02)+(P*0,05)+(TIDE*0,05) [eq. 8]
8.3 RAW analysis
The values on this last 5 tables are used to a Raw
evaluation. It is also important to point out the fact
that, this last table7, as well as all the other four, have
been characterized by parameter weights stipulated by
the author, to make the Raw evaluation, where it is
reasonable to use this values, but in a more refined
evaluation, this values will change, for improvement.
This raw evaluation, was made to both wave directions
of220, and 235, and provides good results as shown
in Tables 8 and 9.
The results were very similar for both wave direction,and those are show, in the following plots.
On the 220 RAW analysis, the 3 best wave SCOREs
obtained per major order were:
1st 220 MB 19 2
2nd
220 MB 11 2
3rd
220 MB 15 1
On the 235 RAW analysis, the 3 best wave SCOREs
obtained per major order were the same as in the 220
analysis.
Table 8- Raw evaluation values for 220.
Table 9- Raw evaluation values for 235.
Weight %
1 PA 0,02 2
2 TUBO 0,18 18
3 HEIGHT 0,2 20
4 WALL 0,12 12
5 Q&R 0,3 30
6 BW 0,02 2
7 CF 0,02 2
8 START 0,02 2
9 MOVE 0,02 2
10 P 0,05 5
11 TIDE 0,05 5
SUM= 1,00 100
Quality leve l POT
NIVEL 1
Segurana
Qualidade
Aprendizagem
Qualidade
Profissional
Qualidade nivel
Mdio
Qualidade a nivel de
impacto Visual
Qualidade
Final
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
N Mar condio PERIODO ALTURA PA TUBO HEIGHT WALL Q&R BW CF START MOVE P TIDE SCORE
1 MB 11 1 1 10 6 6 7,5 9,5 10 7 5 9 7 8 4,14 5,16 7,35 7,235 7,6 6,297
2 MB 11 2 2 10 8 7 8 9,5 10 6,7 7 8,5 7 8 4,027 4,825 8,125 8,035 8,244 6,6512
3 MB 11 3 3 10 6 8 8,5 7 10 6,7 8 7 7 8 3,982 4,87 7,675 7,6125 7,384 6,3047
4 MB 11 4 4 10 1 8,5 6,5 5,5 10 6 8,3 6 7 8 4,56 5,78 6,161 6,1755 5,866 5,7085
5 MB 15 1 1 10 9 6 8 9 10 6 6 9 8 8 4,1 4,53 8,13 7,96 8,1 6,564
6 MB 15 2 2 10 8 7 8 8,5 10 6,3 7 8 8 8 4,048 4,68 8,065 7,9325 7,976 6,5403
7 MB 15 3 3 10 1 8 2 1,5 10 6 6 7 8 8 4,485 5,62 5,31 5,155 4,05 4,924
8 MB 19 1 1 10 9 6 7 ,5 9,5 10 6 5 8 ,7 9 8 4,055 4,485 8,144 7,8945 8,214 6,5585
9 MB 19 2 2 10 8,5 7 8 9 10 6 7,5 8 9 8 4,15 4,695 8,275 8,145 8,27 6,707
10 MB 19 3 3 10 6 8 7 ,5 7,5 10 6 9 ,5 7,8 9 8 4,42 5,255 7,726 7,7305 7,546 6,5355
11 MM 11 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 10 10 7 7 7,69 7,09 1,1 1,795 1,1 3,755
12 MM 11 2 2 10 6 7 1,5 3 10 7 7,2 9,4 7 7 4,385 5,38 6,442 6,371 5,132 5,542
13 MM 11 3 3 10 3 8 6 2 10 7 3 6 7 7 3,7 4,5 6,12 5,75 4,88 4,99
14 MM 11 4 4 10 2 8 2,5 1,5 10 7 6 4 7 7 4,15 5,35 5,5 5,315 4,15 4,893
15 MM 15 1 1 0 0 0 0 0,5 10 0 10 10 8 7 8,435 7,66 1,39 2,225 1,5 4,242
16 MM 15 2 2 10 2 7 5,5 5 10 7 7 7 8 7 4,565 5,85 6 5,985 5,49 5,578
17 MM 15 3 3 10 3 8 6,5 4 10 7 6 6 8 7 4,095 5,12 6,44 6,27 5,65 5,515
18 MM 15 4 4 10 1 8,5 1 1 10 7 4 4 8 7 4,06 5,305 5,175 4,845 3,75 4,627
19 MM 19 1 1 10 0 6 0,5 0 10 7 9,8 9,8 9 7 5,325 6,96 4,552 4,786 2,992 4,923
20 MM 19 2 2 10 2 7 3 1 10 7 6 8,8 9 7 4,5 5,66 5,496 5,388 4,056 5,02
21 MM 19 3 3 10 4 8 5,5 5,5 10 7 5 6 9 7 4,04 5,04 6,74 6,48 6,19 5,698
22 MM 19 4 4 10 6 8,5 7 6,5 10 7 6,5 5,8 9 7 3,895 4,74 7,601 7,3755 7,156 6,1535
23 MC 11 1 1 10 0 0 0 0 10 8 10 10 7 6 6,02 7,94 3,15 3,695 1,61 4,483
24 MC 11 2 2 10 1 7 0,5 0,5 10 8 9,7 9,7 7 6 5,035 6,77 4,948 5,169 3,388 5,062
25 MC 11 3 3 10 2 8 3 5,5 10 8 7 7 7 6 4,535 6,15 5,95 5,94 5,46 5,607
26 MC 11 4 4 10 5 8 6 5 10 8 8 4 7 6 4,01 5,2 6,92 6,85 6,17 5,83
27 MC 15 1 1 10 0 0,5 0,5 0 10 8 10 10 8 6 5,955 7,845 3,355 3,865 1,82 4,568
28 MC 15 2 2 10 5 7 2,5 6,5 10 8 9,3 9,3 8 6 4,795 6,31 6,662 6,796 6,182 6,149
29 MC 15 3 3 10 4 8 1,5 2 10 8 8,4 7 8 6 4,395 5,78 6,098 6,079 4,668 5,404
30 MC 15 4 4 10 0 8 0 0,5 10 8 6 4 8 6 4,405 6,07 4,72 4,585 3,21 4,598
31 MC 19 1 1 10 0 0 0 0 10 0 10 10 9 6 7,58 7,18 2,85 3,165 1,55 4,465
32 MC 19 2 2 10 2 4 2 0,5 10 8 8,5 7,5 9 6 5,03 6,56 4,75 4,925 3,18 4,889
33 MC 19 3 3 10 7 8 5 7,5 10 8 9 7,3 9 6 4,29 5,505 7,706 7,6955 7,346 6,5085
34 MC 19 4 4 10 7 8,1 6 7 10 8 9,2 7 9 6 4,208 5,357 7,785 7,774 7,334 6,4916
19
11
ANEXO V /1.1
Direco 220
15
NIVEL 2
MEIA
CHEIA
NIVEL 3
SECUNDARIOS
BAIXA
19
11
15
19
PRINCIPAIS
11
15
NIVEL 1
Segurana
Qualidade
Aprendizagem
Qualidade
Profissional
Qualidade nivel
Mdio
Qualidade a nivel de
impacto Visual
Qualidade
Final
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
N Mar condio PERIODO ALTURA PA TUBO HEIGHT WALL Q&R BW CF START MOVE P TIDE SCORE
1 MB 11 1 1 10 6 6 7 ,5 9,5 10 6,7 5,5 9,2 7 8 4,257 5,215 7,349 7,262 7,608 6,3382
2 MB 11 2 2 10 8 7 8 9,5 10 6,5 7,5 8,7 7 8 4,125 4,89 8,129 8,0695 8,254 6,6935
3 MB 11 3 3 10 6 8 8,5 7 10 6,4 8,5 7,2 7 8 4,099 4,925 7,674 7,6395 7,392 6,3459
4 MB 15 1 1 10 9 6 8 9 10 5,7 6,5 9 8 8 4,207 4,575 8,125 7,98 8,104 6,5982
5 MB 15 2 2 10 8 7 8 8,5 10 6,1 7,5 8,3 8 8 4,151 4,75 8,071 7,9705 7,988 6,5861
6 MB 15 3 3 10 1 8 2 1,5 10 5,8 6,4 7 8 8 4,563 5,66 5,308 5,174 4,054 4,9518
7 MB 19 1 1 10 9 6 7,5 9,5 10 5,7 5,5 8,8 9 8 4,167 4,535 8,141 7,918 8,22 6,5962
8 MB 19 2 2 10 8,5 7 8 9 10 5,8 8 8,5 9 8 4,263 4,775 8,285 8,19 8,286 6,7598
9 MB 19 3 3 10 6 8 7,5 7,5 10 5,7 10 8 9 8 4,537 5,31 7,725 7,7575 7,554 6,5767
10 MM 11 1 1 10 8 0 0 0 0 0 10 10 7 7 5,89 4,99 4,6 4,595 2,74 4,563
11 MM 11 2 2 10 1 7 1,5 3 10 6,8 7,7 9,6 7 7 4,983 6,445 5,196 5,2805 4,242 5,2293
12 MM 11 3 3 10 3 8 6 2 10 6,7 3,5 6,2 7 7 3,817 4,555 6,119 5,777 4,888 5,0312
13 MM 15 2 2 10 2 7 5,5 5 10 6,8 7,5 7,3 8 7 4,668 5,92 6,006 6,023 5,502 5,6238
14 MM 15 3 3 10 3 8 6,5 4 10 6,7 6,5 6,1 8 7 4,207 5,17 6,437 6,2935 5,656 5,5527
15 MM 19 1 1 10 0 6 0,5 0 10 6,7 10 10 9 7 5,412 6,97 4,545 4,7875 2,994 4,9417
16 MM 19 2 2 10 2 7 3 1 10 6,8 6,5 9 9 7 4,598 5,725 5,5 5,4225 4,066 5,0623
17 MM 19 3 3 10 4 8 5 ,5 5,5 10 6,7 5,5 6,2 9 7 4,157 5,095 6,739 6,507 6,198 5,7392
18 MM 19 4 4 10 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 6,1 4,8 1,5 1 0,2 2,72
MEIA
11
15
19
ANEXO V 2.1
NIVEL 3
PRINCIPAIS SECUNDARIOS
BAIXA
11
Direco 235
15
19
NIVEL 2
7/29/2019 Extended Abstract 48803
8/10
D.F.Antunes Physical Modelling of an Artificial Surf Reef in S. Pedro do Estoril
September 2009
Instituto Superior Tcnico | 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal
Figure 14- Plots for RAW SCOREs in 220 and 235.
8.4 REFINED Analysis
This analysis intends to improve the results obtained
on the RAW analysis, and the difference between both
analysis, relays on the scientific and carefully
measured data and posterior conversion for the PA
and HEIGHT SCOREs as shown in section 8.1
8.4.1 POT improvement:
Another improvement lays on inquiries made to all
types of potential tourists, and with the gathered
information acquired in the inquiry, a new table was
set, and the data on Table 7 was upgraded to a more
realist evaluation as shown on Table 10.
Table 10- Weights according to POT inquiries.
Quality for POT Weight %
1 TUBO 2,175793 21,75793
2 ALTURA 1,988473 19,88473
3 PAREDE 2,161383 21,61383
4 Q&R 2,04611 20,4611
5 MAR 1,628242 16,28242
SUM= 10,00 100
This Table was obtained by the average on the 18
realized enquiries.
For this Refined analysis, before making the
Parameters SCORE conversion, it has been
necessary to gather values from the tests data, the
values of HEIGHT and PA.
8.4.2 HEIGHT improvement: This values were
specially analysed separately, and for the wave
HEIGHT, the Procedure included the wave height
sensors plots on each test, as shown in Figure
Figure 15- Wave height plot for the 220 MB 11 2 test.
A line was plotted over the major wave height values,
and the average value of the wave along these point
was considered the HEIGHT to use in SCORE=
F(HEIGHT) in order to obtain the respective SCORE
for this test. This procedure was made to all the tests,
and this way, the HEIGHT SCORES were inserted on
the REFINED analysis table.
8.4.3 PA improvement and the Distortion Problem:
For the Peel Angle, a big problem occurred when
measuring the angle from the sequential top view
pictures taken during the tests. This problem is the
MB 11 1
MB 11 2
MB 11 3
MB 11 4
MB 15 1
MB 15 2
MB 15 3
MB 19 1
MB 19 2
MB 19 3MM 11 1
MM 11 2
MM 11 3
MM 11 4
MM 15 1
MM 15 2
MM 15 3
MM 15 4
MM 19 1
MM 19 2
MM 19 3
MM 19 4
MC 11 1
MC 11 2
MC 11 3
MC 11 4
MC 15 1
MC 15 2
MC 15 3
MC 15 4
MC 19 1
MC 19 2
MC 19 3
MC 19 4
6,297
6,6512
6,3047
5,7085
6,564
6,5403
4,924
6,5585
6,707
6,53553,755
5,542
4,99
4,893
4,242
5,578
5,515
4,627
4,923
5,02
5,698
6,1535
4,483
5,062
5,607
5,83
4,568
6,149
5,404
4,598
4,465
4,889
6,5085
6,4916
RAW WAVE SCORE 220
anexo V/ 1.2
MB 11 1
MB 11 2
MB 11 3
MB 15 1
MB 15 2
MB 15 3
MB 19 1
MB 19 2
MB 19 3
MM 11 1
MM 11 2
MM 11 3
MM 15 2
MM 15 3
MM 19 1
MM 19 2
MM 19 3
MM 19 4
6,3382
6,6935
6,3459
6,5982
6,5861
4,9518
6,5962
6,7598
6,5767
4,563
5,2293
5,0312
5,6238
5,5527
4,9417
5,0623
5,7392
2,72
RAW SCORE 235
anexo V/2.2
Hreal_Mdia 1.92
7/29/2019 Extended Abstract 48803
9/10
D.F.Antunes Physical Modelling of an Artificial Surf Reef in S. Pedro do Estoril
September 2009
Instituto Superior Tcnico | 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal
pictures Distortion and so a Photogrammetry study
was made, and the author overcome this situation.
Although the problem has been solved, it is a very
complicated and extremely extensive. For each
picture, a long term procedure takes action on a
pictures reference geometry viewed on theAUTOCAD Software, and several algorithms in the
MATHEMATICA Software are set to run, to obtain in
the final Pell Angle.
This Study begins by setting the chosen picture on the
Autocad, defining a Picture coordinate system, and
identify common points in the picture and in the REAL
reference coordinate axis plot in Figure 13.
Figure 16- REAL Reference, coordinate Axis.
With a minimum of 4 identified common points on
the (PX)REAL reference axis and on the
(Px)Picture coordinate system, it is possible to
determine any other Picture additional point real
coordinate.
Figure 17- Perspective Geometry.
The method is based on the Bydimensional Invariance.
Taking the values of the 4 point of each coordinate
system, as well as the wanted point coordinates in Px,
and inserting them into the algorithm based upon 2
matrixes like the one on Figure 13 , the REAL
coordinate of an extra unknown point is obtained.
Figure 18- Equation Matrix to obtain extra point coordinate.
Repeating the procedure for 3 points, and applying this
3 point on a vector analysis algorithm, the obtained
result is the REAL Peel Angle , as Show on the
following example.
Example on test 220 MB 15 1, Picture 264, and
MATHEMATICA algorithm code.
Figure 19- Test 220 MB 15 1, Picture 264.
Determination in the REAL ref XY, point a ,Picture 264
Solve[{f[mA,mB,mC,mD,mE,mF,mG,mH]=0,g[mI,mJ,mK,mL,mM,mN,mO,
mP]=0},{Xu,Yu}]
{{Xu=4.69282,Yu=3.58269}}
Determination in the REAL ref XY, point b ,Picture 264
Solve[{f[mA,mB,mC,mD,mE,mF,mG,mH]=0,g[mI,mJ,mK,mL,mM,mN,mO,
mP]=0},{Xu,Yu}]
{{Xu=6.70197,Yu=3.96482}}
Determination in the REAL ref XY, point c ,Picture 264
Solve[{f[mA,mB,mC,mD,mE,mF,mG,mH]=0,g[mI,mJ,mK,mL,mM,mN,mO,
mP]=0},{Xu,Yu}]
{{Xu=5.40452,Yu=3.08302}}
Determination in the REAL ref XY, real PELL ANGLE, Picture 264
{u}={u[XuA,YuA,XuB,YuB]}
{{2.00915,0.382124}}
{v}={v[XuB,YuB,XuC,YuC]}
{{1.29745,0.881796}}
"The angle Between the two lines is:"
(180/Pi)*VectorAngle[u,v] ""
The angle Between the two lines is:
23.4328
Clear [u,v]
In this case the Pictures Peel Angle taken from
AUTOCAD software is 28, and after eliminating the
distortion, the REAL peel Angle taken from the
MATHEMATICA algorithm, is 23.428. The results on
the several long term distortion corrections obtained
are disposed on Table 9.
7/29/2019 Extended Abstract 48803
10/10
D.F.Antunes Physical Modelling of an Artificial Surf Reef in S. Pedro do Estoril
September 2009
Instituto Superior Tcnico | 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal
Table 9- PA results on distortion correction.
After analysing the error results on these 7 pictures,
the conclusion was that inside the 44-45-54-55
Square on Figure 20, the distortion was minimal, and
even so, the relative error on the distortion, was not
that accentuated. Consequently, the Peel Angle data
taken for the REFINED analysis can set values from
this Square because it is the less affected by distortion
Area. It is natural to understand this fact just by
realizing that the investigator had take pictures mainly
positioned over this area.
The Results on this REFINED analysis are posted on
Table 11, and Figure 20.
9.Results.
1st_220 MB 19 2_SCORE=6,776;
2nd
_220 MB 15 2_SCORE=6,743;
3rd_220 MB 11 2_SCORE=6,661
10. Conclusions
It is very difficult to study a wave behaviour due to its
chaotic blowing properties, but yet, it was possible,
after defining the surf parameters and applying this
theory to the S. Pedro ASR surf Model. The best
results were obtained in the lowest tide and smallerwaves, due to the minor boundary conditions
influence.
The perfect angle for the ASR physical model would
be between 35 to 40.
11. References
[1] Product Design and Development by Ulrich and Eppinger (2nd ed.,
McGraw-Hill, 2000)
[2] Edward M. Mikhail, James S. Bethel and J Chris McGlone..
Introduction to Modern Photogrammetry, John Wiley and Sons, Inc., New
York. Mar 2001.
[3] Mota-Oliveira, I. Hidrulica martima. Ed. AEIST, Instituto Superior
Tcnico, Lisboa. (1981).
[4] P. Bicudo, Estudo Prvio da implementao de um recife artificial
para a prtica de surf na praia de So Pedro do Estoril.
[5] P. Bicudo, A Fisica Do Surf, Lisboa, 28 de Outubro de 2003.
[6] P. Bicudo and A. Horta, Integrating Surfing in the Socio-economic
and Morphology and Coastal Dynamic Impacts of the Environmental
Evaluation of Coastal Projects, Journal of Coastal Research, Special
Issue 56, 2009.
Table 11- REFINED analysis Values for 220.
Figure 20- REFINED SCOREs for 220 and the 44-45-54-55Square.
Picture PA in Picture REAL PA PA
77 40,00 : 40,58 : 0,58 :
79 22,00 : 21,10 : 0,90 :
245 19,00 : 17,65 : 1,35 :
248 30,00 : 31,47 : 1,47 :
264 28,00 : 23,43 : 4,57 :481 15,00 : 16,15 : 1,15 :
512 25,00 : 28,58 : 3,58 :
NIVEL 1
Segurana
Qualidade
Aprendizagem
Qualidade
Profissional
Qualidade
nivel Mdio
Qua idade a
nivel de impacto
Visual
Qualidade
Final
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
N Mar condio PERIODO
HEIGHT
criada
pelo
batedor
HEIGHT
REAL
pelos
sensores HEIGHT
PA
medido
nas fotos
SCORE PA
terico
SCORE
de PA PA TUBO HEIGHT WALL Q&R BW CF START MOVE P TIDE SCORE
1 MB 11 1 1 1,03 0,03 40 8, 5 0, 669 7 ,83 1 6 7 ,3 3 7 ,5 9 ,5 1 0 7 5 9 7 8 4, 19 70 80 439 5 ,09 53 121 42 7 ,30 43 342 31 7, 24 45 11 044 7, 630 818 78 5 6, 294 411 33
2 MB 11 2 2 1,92 0,08 38 9 0, 6908 8 ,3092 8 9, 32 8 9, 5 10 6, 7 7 8, 5 7 8 3, 917395812 4, 60763213 8, 359077329 8, 2607226 8, 569858406 6,74293726
3 MB 11 3 3 3,42 0,42 46 6 0 ,4 68 4 6, 46 84 6 8 ,8 0 8 ,5 7 1 0 6 ,7 8 7 7 8 4, 23 88 84 982 4 ,94 22 820 64 7 ,31 37 412 82 7, 39 57 29 609 7, 627 826 02 1 6, 303 692 79
4 MB 11 4 4 3,88 0,12 62 2 1 ,3 62 8 3, 36 28 1 7 ,5 4 6 ,5 5 ,5 1 0 6 8, 3 6 7 8 5 ,3 38 73 425 6 ,23 64 587 71 4 ,96 41 450 62 5, 34 88 43 145 5, 550 043 22 8 5, 487 644 89
5 MB 15 1 1 0,99 0,01 31 8, 2 1 ,8 77 4 10 ,0 77 9 7 ,1 8 8 9 1 0 6 6 9 8 8 3, 95 09 67 978 4 ,37 30 636 43 8 , 38 88 710 38 8, 16 79 03 697 8, 258 618 02 2 6, 627 884 88
6 MB 15 2 2 2,76 0,76 39 7, 5 0 ,5 68 6 8, 06 86 8 9 ,6 5 8 8 ,5 1 0 6 ,3 7 8 8 8 3 ,92 31 087 4 ,43 20 360 92 8 ,33 18 447 74 8, 18 99 04 341 8, 430 447 76 5 6,66146833
7 MB 15 3 3 3,48 0,48 6 0, 5 0 ,4 70 06 78 0, 02 99 1 8 ,6 7 2 1 ,5 1 0 6 6 7 8 8 5, 40 18 30 913 6 ,03 16 462 01 3 ,95 47 975 97 4, 27 15 75 698 3, 982 995 73 8 4, 728 569 23
8 MB 19 1 1 1,24 0,24 32 8, 7 1 ,1 15 8 9 ,8 158 9 8 ,0 2 7 ,5 9 ,5 1 0 6 5 8 ,7 9 8 3, 83 07 43 482 4 ,23 13 104 38 8 ,54 10 539 07 8, 21 98 71 734 8, 420 854 59 7 6, 648 766 83
9 MB 19 2 2 2,86 0,86 46 8, 4 1 ,9 31 6 6, 46 84 8 ,5 9 ,5 9 8 9 1 0 6 7, 5 8 9 8 4, 19 20 41 432 4 ,53 45 348 85 8 , 28 97 174 93 8, 23 25 91 304 8, 630 088 01 5 6,77579463
10 MB 19 3 3 4,59 1,59 24 6 5 ,7 25 6 0 ,2 744 6 4 ,9 7 7 ,5 7 ,5 1 0 6 9, 5 7 ,8 9 8 5, 75 57 02 735 6, 134 684 63 5 ,63 16 602 14 6, 24 34 87 792 6, 752 711 55 5 6, 103 649 39
12 MM 11 2 2 1,74 0,26 33 2,8 6 ,7572 9,5572 1 9 ,08 1 ,5 3 10 7 7 ,2 9 ,4 7 7 4 ,679454607 6 ,131495824 5 ,562774438 5 ,555639307 4 ,101291549 5 ,20613115
13 MM 11 3 3 3,37 0,37 38 2, 6 5 ,7 09 2 8, 30 92 3 8 ,9 1 6 2 1 0 7 3 6 7 7 3, 76 02 73 422 4 ,46 66 662 07 6 , 05 67 915 11 5, 73 50 62 652 5, 269 630 04 6 5, 057 684 77
15 MM 15 1 15 1 0,97 0,03 35 0 9,049 9 ,04 9 0 7 ,1 0 0 0 ,5 1 0 0 1 0 10 8 7 6, 67 84 45 462 6, 284 924 25 4 ,23 77 454 42 4, 33 64 10 596 2, 653 314 8 4, 838 168 11
20 MM 19 2 2 2,8 0,8 36 2 6 ,7 99 4 8, 79 94 2 9 ,6 3 3 1 1 0 7 6 8 ,8 9 7 4, 30 44 55 841 5 ,37 81 254 95 5 ,86 82 172 78 5, 71 50 45 892 4, 342 854 60 1 5, 121 739 82
21 MM 19 3 3 3,43 0,43 24 5, 7 5 ,4 25 6 0, 27 44 4 8 ,7 8 5 ,5 5 ,5 1 0 7 5 6 9 7 4, 91 88 88 006 5 ,42 48 020 06 5, 445 085 99 5, 64 01 41 992 6, 070 200 00 8 5, 49 98 23 6
Direction 220REFINED ANALYSIS
MEIA
11
19
BAIXA
11
15
19
ALTURA
CLASSIFICAESNIVEL 3 NIVEL 2
M AIN PARAME TE RS S EC UN DARY PARAME TE RS
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
MB 11 1
MB 11 2
MB 11 3
MB 11 4
MB 15 1
MB 15 2
MB 15 3
MB 19 1
MB 19 2
MB 19 3
MM 11 2
MM 11 3
MM 15 1
MM 19 2
MM 19 3
6,294411329
6,742937255
6,303692791
5,487644891
6,627884876
6,661468335
4,72856923
6,648766832
6,775794626
6,103649385
5,206131145
5,057684768
4,83816811
5,121739821
5,4998236
REFINED SCORE FOR 220