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SEWITECH

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CHINES

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SEWING MACHINE PRACTICE

Machine threading

Learn to sew correctly on the sewing machine before attempting to make a dress. The tensions should be perfectly adjusted and the machine should be threaded correctly before it will stitch perfectly. After it has been threaded, drop the needle into the bobbin section, holding the end of the top thread. Then pull out the bobbin thread and draw both threads to the back under the presser foot. This will start the stitch perfectly and will prevent the threads from being caught into the first stitches.

Starting and stopping the sewing machine

If the machine is of the treadle type, place both feet on the treadle, one foot higher than the other, and practice working the machine until an even motion is secured. The thread should be removed from the needle for this practice. Be sure to start the machine to run either forward or backward as the machine is to be made run; usually on the treadle machine start the wheel with the hand. The electric machine is made to start in one direction but the treadle machine may run backward. It is necessary to also stop the wheel with the hand on the treadle machine.

If the machine is electric, practice with the knee or foot control until the right touch is acquired to start and stop machine smoothly and not to run it too fast. The pressure of the foot or knee controls the speed.

How needles are blunted

Learn to stitch straight by following the stripe on striped material. Do not pull the goods at the back as this may draw the goods too rapidly and pull the point of the needle backward and it will strike the plate and be blunted. It will then draw the threads when stitching on fine materials and may produce a poor stitch.

Practice stitching curves

After the straight line can be followed, practice following curves. Mark on a sheet of paper curves inside of curves in one continuous line. Stitch the paper on these lines.

Stitch squares with needle as a point

Then mark squares on paper and learn to stitch to the points of the squares. When the point is reached, stop the machine with the needle DOWN into the point, then lift the needle bar and turn the goods. Drop the bar and continue with the stitching. All points are stitched in this manner.

Holding goods, gauging

Learn to stitch seams together, using plain materials with no lines and guide the stitching with the eye. In this case watch the distance between the cut edge and the edge of the presser foot and not the needle. Do not try to sew fast. One can hold the goods at the back to help hold it straight but the goods must not be drawn backward. The machine must feed the goods.

Long threads unnecessary

The larger part of the material should be held to the left of the needle with the seam under the arm of the machine. There are few exceptions to this rule. Always stop the needle with the take-up thread bar (at the left of the machine) raised high on the machine. If this bar is down, even if the needle is raised, the needle will be unthreaded when

the bar lifts. If this bar is watched, it will not be necessary to draw out yards of surplus thread to waste when sewing. These long threads are inconvenient and are not necessary.

Stitch curves

Practice machine-stitching the inner edges of curves cut from material. Neck lines and armholes are stretched easily when tried on without the sleeves and the neck finish. Therefore the raw edge of loosely woven material should be machine-stitched even if the goods is heavy; coarse unbleached muslin or loosely woven wool will stretch as badly as voile under these conditions.

Easing in a stretched curve

For an example, cut out a circle and follow the edge in stitching, sewing as near to the cut edge as possible. Then cut a second piece of material and cut a large half circle for a neck and stretch it straight so as to stretch the curve. It can be drawn back to shape with stitching as is often necessary when a neck or armhole has been stretched.

Place the stretched curve on the machine and start to stitch on the end of the curve. Follow a line with the eye along the straight thread of material from the needle outward. Hold the left hand firmly on this place about six inches from the needle. Then follow a straight thread of the goods from the finger to the right. This will make a right angle (see illustration). Draw the material straight along this line and start to stitch around the curve. Stitch for two or three inches, keeping the straight threads at right angles. Then shift the fingers, following another set of straight threads, and stitch another few inches. Allow the material to ease back into its natural position as it stitches, which it will do without any assistance. When the circle is completed it will lie flat and will not be rippled around the stretched curve.

Stretched bias straightened

When finished edges do not meet at the end of the seam the seam should be ripped, and each seam can be tested by stitching in the same manner. One side may have been stretched when basted and this can easily be determined, if the bias edge is stitched.

Pin or hold the goods on a flat surface at a right angle, smoothing the goods along the lengthwise and crosswise thread of the goods to make a right angle. If the bias edge has been stretched it will ripple and should be opened and re-basted.

When two bias edges are to be finished separately and must meet (an opening on a bias yoke), test them for meeting when they are basted rather than waiting until they are stitched. If a bias edge is stretched, it will always twist. It must be opened and straightened.

Speed in stitching seams

Practice continuous stitching for speed in construction. As one seam is finished have another one ready to start under the needle. After the second seam has been stitched for six inches reach back and cut the seams apart. This will save much time and possibly re-threading of the needle if many

seams are stitched at one time.

Finger safety

Keep the fingers well removed from the needle. If the finger gets under the needle it will surely be pierced. Usually every one must run a needle through the finger once but that is all that is necessary to teach the lesson.

Tension adjustment Dropped stitch

If the machine does not stitch correctly it is usually some poor adjustment of the tensions. There is a tension for the upper thread and one for the bobbin. The stitch should sink into the goods on each side. If one thread seems to be on top of the goods, then the other thread is too loose and the tension should be tightened. There should be a book of directions for tensions with every sewing machine; if not, turn the tension to the right to tighten and to the left to loosen either for the screw on the top or on the bobbin case. A partial turn of the screw is usually all that is necessary. Try the stitch on a sample of cloth until the right stitch is secured. Even drop stitches are sometimes caused by loose tensions or possibly by a short needle.

Oiling the machine

Be sure to keep the machine well oiled. It should be oiled at the end of a hard day's sewing and a piece of cloth left under the needle to absorb any surplus oil. Place one drop of pure clean sewing machine oil on the hook race and on the needle bar. Older machines may require additional oiling points so check your machine user’s manual. Before again sewing on the machine after oiling it, be sure to wipe off the machine under the side-arm above the needle. Draw a rag across under and above the needle as this is the place that holds that drop of oil that may fall on the material when sewing and may not only cause a grease spot but a black streak also.

Straighten the stitching line by pressing

After the seam has been basted and is ready to stitch it will require but a few moments of time to straighten all the sewing lines and perfect them for straight stitching.

Press each seam over to one side (do not open) and make a crease on one side of the seam on all seams that are not curved. Hip seams are straight from the hips downward but are curved from the hips to the waist. Lift the pressed seams and the crease will be the line to follow in

preference to the basting. Stitch on the crease and the line will be true and straight.

This pressing not only perfects the seam but gives an encouraging appearance to the dress. It is more interesting to sew when it LOOKS RIGHT.

Make samples of each problem step by step as instructions are given.

Questions—Sewing Machine Practice • What is necessary to be able to sew perfectly?

• How is the thread brought up from the bobbin case?

• Where should the thread then be placed?

• What will this prevent?

• How is a treadle machine operated?

• How can one practice stitching straight?

• Should the goods be pulled at the back? What will happen?

• How can sewing curves be practiced?

• How are corners stitched?

• How is the width of a seam gauged?

• How is the material held on the machine?

• Where should the needle bar rest when the machine is stopped?

• How can a stretched edge be straightened with machine stitching?

• What threads of material are followed with the eye and hands?

• How are several seams stitched quickly?

• What often causes a drop stitch?

• Should the machine be well oiled? How can a gummed machine be oiled?

• Where should the needle bar be wiped off after oiling?

• How is a basted line straightened for stitching?