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Signature Oysters: Media
SMALL BUT PERFECTLY FORMEDBY: KEVA GOCHER 28 APRIL 2015
Doors Open: Morgan McGlone, Miranda Campbell, Adam Shoebridge, Peter Jo and George McCullogh at Bar Clarine
Signature Oysters: Media
The hotly anticipated natural
wine bar sidekick to Belle’s
Hot Chicken, Bar Clarine,
opened a few weeks ago. The menu
will change every 10 days, and
every second you spend reading
this decreases your chances of a
seat. The new project by Morgan
McGlone and Miranda Campbell
is tiny, with just 22 seats and no
bookings.
But if it’s small, it’s also ambitious
and spry, a place of minimal
intervention wines and maximum
fun for oenophiles who have
reached peak hot chicken.
Shucking signature oysters, serving
them with cucumber, bay oil
and white pepper is chef Adam
Shoebridge, an ex co-worker of
McGlone’s from Husk in the US.
It’s wine-food menu that maintains
the Southern accent of next door,
though mildly so. That might look
like sardines on toast with a tomato
gravy (cornmeal cooked down with
tomatoes) or salad-meets-cheese-
plate hybrid mignonette hearts with
a malted onion dust and big curls of
beaufort cheese. Other cheeses and
terrines are being made in-house,
while the fresh produce driving the
menu is being negotiated with a
farm collective in Monbulk.
Manning the wine collection
(cellared off-site in Collingwood)
is George McCullough, the young
sommelier with strong game
courtesy of time at the Builders. It’s
an international cellar with minimal-
interventionist heart, which McGlone
has been building since October,
and currently features rare French
cuvees and bonus non-wines such as
Laurent Cazottes tomato eau de vie
made with 72 types of the plant.
150 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, 9077 0788,
Tue-Sat 5pm - 11:30pm (later when the
license expands).
Picture: Pat Scala