Emollient Compatibility

Emulsun (6%) is compatible with a variety of emollients (20%) with a range of rHLBs from 4-9. Emulsun is also compatible with sunscreens and up to 10% ethanol. Use Emulsun to create stable formulas with a range of emollients.1

0 50000 100000 150000 2000005

6

7

Dimethicone (350cs)

Dimethicone (20cs)Olive Oil

Floramac Macadamia OilFlorasun 90

OctyldodecanolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Isononyl IsononoanoateFloraesters 15

Mineral Oil

Floramac 10

Viscosity (cP)

rHLB

pH = 6.5-7.56% Emulsun

Thickener & pH Compatibility

4 6 8 10 120

50000

100000

150000

200000

250000

10% Emulsun8% Emulsun6% Emulsun

pH

Visc

osity

(cP)

20% Oil

4% 6% 8% 10%50000

100000

150000

200000

250000

Emulsun Loading Level

Visc

osity

(cP)

20% OilpH = 7

The viscosity can be tailored by adjusting the Emulsun loading level (with 20% oil) or the oil loading level (with 6% Emulsun), without the use of thickeners. Emulsun is versatile and gives formulators a variety of rheology options for stable1 formulations.

Emulsun can be used at reasonable loading levels, between a ratio of 2:1 and 5:1 (Oil:Emulsun), to build the viscosity of stable1 formulas with up to 40% oil (without the use of secondary emulsifiers or thickeners).

Emulsun can be used to create stable2 formulas from pH 4-11.

20% 25% 30% 35% 40%100000

150000

200000

250000

Oil Loading Level

Visc

osity

(cP)

6% EmulsunpH = 7

Achieve Target Viscositywww.floratech.com

®

Oil Loading Level vs. Viscosity Emulsun Loading Level vs. ViscosityViscosity vs. rHLB

pH vs. Viscosity

• PEG-free

• HLB independent

• Non-ionic

• Preservative-free

• Biodegradable

• Low odor and color

• Easy to handle

particles

• Low cost

• Oxidatively stable

• Sensory appeal

• Liquid crystal

structure

Emulsun®: A PEG-Free, Natural EmulsifierTiffany N. Quinn, MS (Floratech, Chandler, AZ) and

Robert A. Harper, PhD (Harper & Associates, La Jolla, CA)

Formulators have the option of thickeners5 that are compatible with Emulsun which can be used to build viscosity and create stable1 formulas with low oil loading levels.

5% 10% 15% 20%30000

60000

90000

120000

150000

Visc

osity

(cP)

Oil Loading Level

5:1 Oil:Emulsun

pH = 6.5-7.5

A

B

C

D

E

F

C - 0.50% Natrosol 250 HR CSD - 0.30% Keltrol CGE - 0.30% Aristoflex AVC

A - 0.15% Carbopol Ultrez 21 PolymerB - 0.15% Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer

F - No Thickener (Emulsun only)

®

®

®

®

Emulsun outperforms standard o/w emulsifiers by providing stable4 formulas with comparable viscosities.

Outperforms

Emulsifier (E) % E % Oil Stable Viscosity (cP) % E % Oil Stable Viscosity (cP)

Emulsun 6

20

pass 100250 8

40

pass 234125

Cetearyl Alcohol / Ceteareth-20

6 fail --- 8 fail ---

9 fail --- 15 fail ---

Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate

6 fail --- 8 pass2 258125

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters / Glyceryl Stearate / Cetearyl Alcohol / Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

6 fail --- 8 fail ---

Glyceryl Stearate / PEG-100 Stearate

4 pass 68667 93 fail ---

How to Use: Add Emulsun® to the oil phase. Heat both the oil and

aqueous phases to 75-80°C. Combine the oil and aqueous phases with

moderate to rapid mixing (or homomixing). Reduce mixing speeds at

temperatures below 60°C. When adding other ingredients (e.g., fragrance,

preservatives, etc.) below 40°C, disperse briefly with slow to moderate

mixing, as over mixing may cause a loss of viscosity. Typical Emulsun

usage levels are 3-8%, and typical oil loading levels are 15-40%.

Ease of Addition: Emulsun is an easy to handle spherical particle.

The free-flowing particles improve dosing precision from bench-top

formulations to large-scale production lines. The Emulsun particle form

also offers an increased surface area compared to flakes or pellets. This

allows Emulsun to be efficiently melted and blended. This increases

throughput, lowers heating requirements, and creates a greener production

process.

Compatibility: Emulsun is compatible with natural and synthetic oils,

esters, silicones, ethanol, sunscreens, and thickeners.

Liquid Crystal Structure: The sunflower-derived monoglycerides and

polyglyceride esters form a self-assembling hexagonal liquid crystal phase

with oil in water formulations. This liquid crystal structure helps decrease

surface tension and improves emulsification.

Stability Information:

Unless otherwise stated, the oil phase in the lotions / creams included sunflower oil, macadamia oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride oil, ethyl macadamiate, jojoba esters, and isononyl isononanoate; and the water phase included 2% glycerin.

1. Stable for 2 weeks at 50°C and for 3 cycles of freeze / thaw. 2. Not freeze / thaw stable.3. Also included 3% cetearyl alcohol. 4. Stable for 12 weeks at 4°C, room temperature, and 43°C, in addition to 3 cycles of freeze / thaw.5. Carbopol, Natrosol, Keltrol, and Aristoflex are registered trademarks of The Lubrizol Corp., Ashland, Inc., CP Kelco, and Clariant Corp., respectively.

Formulating:

Dermatologic Efficacy• Increase skin hydration• Increase barrier function• Increase sensory appeal• No white residue

With and Without Thickeners

INCI

Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (and) Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Glyceryl Esters (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

is a versatile, sunflower-derived o/w emulsifier.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

© Copyright 2018 International Flora Technologies, Ltd. All Rights Reserved.

Emulsun®: A PEG-Free, Natural Emulsifier

Presented by: Tiffany N. Quinn, M.S. and Robert A. Harper, Ph.D.

For the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Technology Showcase

December 11-12, 2018New York, NY

Contact: sales@floratech.com

www.floratech.com

Floratech Proprietary & Confidential © Copyright 2018 International Flora Technologies, Ltd., All Rights ReservedMKT16 REV. OCT 2017sales@fl oratech.com

weeks at 43oC0 6 12

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)

Florabeads Jojoba

Ecobeads

Cellulose 1

Cellulose 2

Cellulose 3

LOT SPECIFIC RAW MATERIAL INFO 24/7?

NOW THAT’S GENIUS!

CofA, TDS, SDS,Efficacy Data,

Formulas, etc...

No Registration or Passwords!

® Ingredient Information Instantly

Scan the QR Code on your product or sample

© Copyright 2011, 2017 International Flora Technologies, Ltd., All Rights Reserved.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

SCAN QR CODE FOR

TU

TOR

IAL

VIDEO

www.floratech.com

®

SAMP108

...or go to fl oratech.com/info for lot specifi c information 24/7!

Scan the QR Code...

SAMP108

Direct Access to the Floratech Ingredient Database