Ecuador & the Galápagos

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Isabel Albiston, Jade Bremner, Brian Kluepfel, MaSovaida Morgan, Wendy Yanagihara

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Welcome to Ecuador . . . . 4

Ecuador Map . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Ecuador’s Top 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .18

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Month by Month . . . . . . . 23

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Ecuador Outdoors . . . . . 32

Galápagos Planning . . . . 39

Regions at a Glance . . . . 48

QUITO . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52La Mitad del Mundo . . . . . . 95Volcán Pululahua . . . . . . . . 96

NORTHERN HIGHLANDS . . . . . . . 98Cayambe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Reserva Ecológica Cayambe-Coca . . . . . . . . . 101Oyacachi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Otavalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Around Otavalo . . . . . . . . . 108Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi-Cayapas . . . . . 112Ibarra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113La Esperanza . . . . . . . . . . . 116Intag Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . .117Northern Carchi . . . . . . . . 119Reserva Biológica Guandera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119El Ángel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Tulcán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Western Andean Slopes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Mindo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Cloud Forest Reserves & Lodges . . . . . 128

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . . . . 130Machachi & Aloasí . . . . . . 131Reserva Ecológica Los Ilinizas . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Parque Nacional Cotopaxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Latacunga . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138The Quilotoa Loop . . . . . . 142Ambato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Baños . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Ruta de las Cascadas . . . 157Parque Nacional Sangay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Guaranda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161

Salinas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Volcán Chimborazo . . . . . 162Riobamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Laguna de Colta . . . . . . . . 168Guamote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Alausí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169

CUENCA & THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS . . . . . . . 171Cuenca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Around Cuenca . . . . . . . . . 186Parque Nacional Podocarpus . . . . . . . . . . . . 197Zamora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Vilcabamba . . . . . . . . . . . .200Zumba & the Peruvian Border . . . . . . . .204Catacocha . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Macará & the Peruvian Border . . . . . . . .205

THE ORIENTE . . . . . 206Lago Agrio . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno . . . . 215Coca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Vía Auca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Lower Río Napo . . . . . . . . 219Parque Nacional Yasuní . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Parque Nacional Sumaco Napo Galeras . . . 226Cotundo & Archidona . . . 227Tena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Misahuallí . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Upper Río Napo . . . . . . . . 235Puyo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238Macas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241Sucúa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Gualaquiza . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Kapawi Ecolodge & Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245

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Contents

NORTH COAST & LOWLANDS . . . . . . . 246Western Lowlands . . . . 248Santo Domingo de Los Colorados . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248The North Coast . . . . . . 249San Lorenzo . . . . . . . . . . .250San Miguel . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251Playa de Oro . . . . . . . . . . . 252Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi-Cayapas . . . . . 253Esmeraldas . . . . . . . . . . . . 253Atacames . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255Tonsupa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257Súa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257Same & Tonchigüe . . . . . . 258Corredor Turistico Galera-San Francisco . . . 259Muisne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259Mompiche . . . . . . . . . . . . .260Isla Portete . . . . . . . . . . . . 262Cojimíes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262Canoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262Bahía de Caráquez . . . . . .264Manta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267Montecristi . . . . . . . . . . . . 269

SOUTH COAST . . . . 270Guayaquil . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco . . . . . . . . . . . 287Ruta Spondylus . . . . . . 288Puerto López . . . . . . . . . . . 288Parque Nacional Machalilla . . . . . . . . . . . . .290Salango, Las Tunas & Ayampe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292Olón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293Montañita . . . . . . . . . . . . .294Santa Elena Peninsula to Guayaquil . . . . . . . . . 297Salinas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .298Playas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301

South of Guayaquil . . . 301Reserva Ecológica Manglares Churute . . . . . 301Machala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .302Puerto Bolívar & Jambelí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .303Zaruma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .304Peru via Huaquillas . . . . .305

THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . 307Isla Santa Cruz (Indefatigable) . . . . . . . 308Puerto Ayora . . . . . . . . . . . 311Islas Seymour & Mosquera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318Islas Plazas . . . . . . . . . . . . 319Islas Daphne . . . . . . . . . . . 319Isla Santa Fé (Barrington) . . . . . . . . . . . 319Isla San Cristóbal (Chatham) . . . . . . . . . . . 319Puerto Baquerizo Moreno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321Isla Isabela (Albemarle) . . . . . . . . . . 326Puerto Villamil . . . . . . . . . 328Isla Fernandina (Narborough) . . . . . . . . 332Isla Santiago (San Salvador or James) . . . 332Isla Bartolomé . . . . . . . . . 333Isla Sombrero Chino . . . . 333Isla Rábida (Jervis) . . . . . 333Isla Floreana (Santa María or Charles) . . . . . . . 333Isla Española (Hood) . . . . 334Isla Genovesa (Tower) . . . 335Islas Marchena (Bindloe) & Pinta (Abington) . . . . . . 335Isla Wolf (Wenman) & Isla Darwin (Culpepper) . . . . . 336Understand the Galápagos Islands . . . . 336

Ecuador Today . . . . . . . . 356

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358

Indigenous Ecuador . . . 368

Arts & Music . . . . . . . . . 370

The Natural World . . . . 373

Ecuadorian Cuisine . . . 379

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 382

Transportation . . . . . . . .391

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 397

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 414

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESEcuador Outdoors . . . . . 32

Galápagos Planning . . . . 39

Galápagos Wildlife . . . . 343

Indigenous Ecuador . . . 368

The Natural World . . . . 373

Ecuadorian Cuisine . . . 379

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Itineraries

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Best of Ecuador

Colonial treasures, cloud forests, rainforests, teeming markets and wondrous wildlife are all on the menu of this action-packed journey around Ecuador.

Begin the trip in Quito. Spend two days soaking up the architectural gems of the Old Town, then go 2½ hours north to Otavalo for its famous market (best on Satur-days). Spend the night there and squeeze in a hike out to the stunning lakes Laguna de Cuicocha or Lagunas de Mojanda. On the fourth day, go west (via Quito) to the lush cloud forests of Mindo. Overnight in a riverside or mountaintop lodge, then return to Quito for a flight to Cuenca, the colonial jewel of the south. Spend two days exploring 500-year-old churches and visiting the fairy tale-like setting of Parque Nacional Cajas, 30km to the west. If time allows, visit the Inca ruins of Ingapirca before continuing to Guayaquil for a flight to the Galápagos. Spend four days there, wildlife-watching and island-hopping. For the final part of the Ecuadorian adventure, fly back to Guayaquil and onward to Coca (via Quito), gateway to the Amazon. Spend three nights at a jungle lodge on the Lower Río Napo, one of the best places to marvel at Ecuador’s Amazonian wildlife.

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Traveling along the spine of the Andes, you’ll take in sublime alpine scenery, laid-back villages and a mix of colonial and pre-Columbian wonders. Opportunities for hiking, trekking, mountain biking and climbing are superb.

Start the highland adventure in Quito, where you can acclimatize to the altitude while exploring one of South America’s most fascinating capitals. After two nights in the city, head south for a night or two in a historic hacienda on the flanks of Volcán Coto-paxi, where you can horseback ride and hike; avid climbers can tackle one of Ecuador’s iconic peaks. Around day four, travel south to Latacunga and journey into the moun-tainous landscape of the Quilotoa Loop. This is a great place to hike between high-up indigenous villages, staying in simple guesthouses along the way.

After two days spent in the clouds near Quilotoa, head to a slightly lower elevation and the delightful subtropical town of Baños, where you can soak in natural spring baths, book into a charming inn with views, and take a fabulous downhill bike ride past refreshing waterfalls to Puyo in the Oriente. After Baños, move on to Riobamba, an ideal base for setting out on a high-adrenaline mountain-bike ride or hike around Volcán Chimborazo. From Riobamba take a bus to Alausí, then take a train ride on the famed Nariz del Diablo, with its dramatic views of Chimborazo, El Altar, Laguna de Colta and other vistas dotting the Avenue of the Volcanoes. Returning to Alausí, con-tinue by bus to the marvelous colonial city of Cuenca. There, enjoy a few days taking in the colonial churches, peaceful plazas and the idyllic river setting before striking out for the Inca ruins of Ingapirca. You can visit by bus, organized day trip, or on a more challenging three-day hike along the Camino del Inca (Inca Trail), with gear and guides available in Cuenca. Afterwards, make your way back to Quito for a final night out (Zazu is a good choice, followed by drinks and dancing at La Juliana) and a big send-off to the great Andean experience.

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Heading south from Quito, you’ll soon find yourself in bustling market towns, remote indigenous villages and pristine national parks far from the touring crowds.

Start your journey in the gateway town of Riobamba, a rather workaday mid-sized settlement that’s at its liveliest during its Saturday market. From here, take a detour west to Guaranda, a scenic town that’s the gateway up to Salinas, a fascinating and charm-ing country village where you can visit cooperatives producing chocolate, cheese, mush-rooms and wool products; or you can just take a walk or horseback ride through the pretty countryside. Stay overnight in the village before heading back through Riobamba and continuing east to Parque Nacional Sangay, a setting of magnificent volcanoes and diverse flora and fauna. Head back to Riobamba then south to the lovely Kichwa town of Guamote. Spend the night in the cozy community-run Inti Sisa, which is also a good place to arrange horseback rides or hikes in the pristine countryside. If possible, try to time your visit for Thursday, when a massive indigenous market takes over the town.

After Guamote, travel south to Atillo for a couple of days of spectacular hiking around the crystalline Lagunas de Atillo. Afterwards, head back to Guamote, then south to Cuenca. After days of rugged traveling, pamper yourself with a stay in one of the city’s many fine guesthouses and a meal at one of its eclectic eateries. Recharged and refreshed, continue south to Loja, where you can sample one of the city’s specialties, cuy (guinea pig) – or, if you don’t fancy that, try its famous corn- and plantain-based delicacies.

From Loja head east to the Parque Nacional Podocarpus, a massive park that’s home to astounding biodiversity and offers hikes through mesmerizing landscapes of páramo (high-altitude Andean grasslands) and cloud forest. Afterwards, go back through Loja and continue south to Vilcabamba. This pretty village offers some fine walks, cycling and horseback rides, although it’s also a perfect spot to simply enjoy the peaceful scenery. Next work your way down the western side of the Andes to Cataco-cha, a charming, little-visited highland town. Spend a day here, then head to Puyango to visit one of South America’s largest petrified forests.

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The Oriente is Ecuador’s slice of the Amazon, one of the world’s most biologically diverse regions. For adventurers, wildlife lovers and budding anthropologists, there’s much to discover here, from indigenous reserves to jungle lodges with an incredible array of plant and animal life.

Start in Quito; pre-book jungle lodges you plan to stay at and load up on any needed supplies, then catch a bus southeast to Papallacta, a sparkling complex of thermal baths with magnificent mountain views on a clear day. With both high-end and budget options, this is a fine place to overnight before continuing east to Baeza, a pleasant base for hiking, biking, rafting, bird-watching and other activities. From there, go north to the thundering drama of photogenic San Rafael Falls – Ecuador’s highest falls. For spectacular views of nearby Volcán Reventador in action, make the hike up to the Reserva Alto Coca, a remote cloud-forest reserve with great hiking and bird-watching, plus rustic cabins with striking views of the volcano.

Continue on to the gritty oil town of Lago Agrio; from here, head out to the Reserva de Producción Faunística Cuyabeno – a spectacular rainforest reserve packed with biodiversity. Spend a few days at the recommended Cuyabeno Lodge then travel back to Lago Agrio and on to Coca, another tiny river settlement turned oil boom town. Take a stroll along the river, then hook up with a jungle guide (best arranged beforehand in Quito) for a trip out to the Lower Río Napo, home to some of Ecuador’s finest jungle lodges. Here you’ll find superb wildlife-watching on hikes, canoe rides or climbs to the top of the jungle canopy.

Get your fill of piranha fishing, caiman-spotting and bird-watching, then head back to Coca and down to Tena. This river town is an ideal spot to gain a different perspective on the rainforest: namely, by rushing past on a white-water rafting trip through spec-tacular Class IV rapids. If time allows, you can tack on a trip to the less-visited southern Oriente, via Macas. The Achuar-run Kapawi Ecolodge & Reserve (reachable by char-tered aircraft from Shell) is a wonderfully remote piece of Amazonia.

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Ecuador’s charming coastal villages and attractive beaches draw a wide mix of travelers, including sun-seekers, surfers and seafood lovers.

Start in the laid-back beach spots near Same (sah-may) and the Corredor Turistico Galera-San Francisco on the north coast. After the long journey from Quito, book into a beachfront cabaña (cabin), walk on the beach, and get your fill of seafood. On day two, catch a bus down to Mompiche, a beloved haunt for surfers and paradise-seekers alike with a long brown-sugar beach, big waves and a fun traveler scene that still hasn’t be-come overrun. Take a whale-watching day trip from here or visit the far-off island para-dise of Isla Portete before continuing south.

Next up is Canoa, a slow-moving beach town with a long sandy stretch backed by forested cliffs. Canoa invites lingering: you can take surf lessons, study Spanish and ride horses or cycle to deserted beaches nearby. There are some fine beachfront guesthouses and decent restaurants. While in Canoa, leave time for a visit to the Río Muchacho, a working organic farm, at which you can take a tour, stay overnight and enjoy the fantas-tic food grown right on-site.

On day six, continue south to Bahía de Caráquez, where you can explore mangroves, look for frigate birds and take an ecocity tour. Spend the night, then continue on day seven to Puerto López (you’ll probably have to transfer at Manta). This sleepy town is the gateway to the Isla de la Plata, a fine place to see blue-footed boobies if you’re not heading to the Galápagos. In season (mid-June to early October), there’s also good whale-watching. Other area attractions include the stunning beach of Los Frailes, the indig-enous community of Agua Blanca, and surrounding rainforest with memorable hiking and horseback riding.

Spend your last two days in Montañita, a surf town with a serious party vibe. If you’re looking for something more mellow, stop instead in Ayampe or Olón.

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alfredo Martí Albiol, Bert Waslander, Carlos Manrique de Lara Cadiñanos, Christopher Shingleton, Claudia Baldwin, Eize & Geeske Siegersma, Elise van Vliet, Esther Kalabis, Eva Franc, Geoff Goodwin, Ginny Sutcliffe, Heather Scott, Heather Utteridge, Ingrid Astfalk, Linda E Bayless, Manuela Casanova, Mark White, Maya Wodnicka , Michael Ten Bhomer, Ned Cresswell, Oliver Hiller, Renata Kolar, Sarah Astfalk, Shanelle Reilly, Theresa Astfalk, Tim Urban, Yolanda Guaman

WRITER THANKSIsabel AlbistonMany thanks to everyone I met along the road who made my research trip so enjoyable, especially Jamie Mitchell and her family, Galo Brito and Carlos at Pro Bici, Luis at Julio Verne, Anibal Tenemasa, Joaquín Andino, Belén Arellano, Jazmín Arellano, Jesús Alcalá, Anita Hughes and Fernando Vallejo. Thanks also to MaSovaida Morgan and my co-writers.

Jade BremnerGracias to Destination Editor MaSovaida Morgan for this project and being so helpful along the way. Thanks also to local expert Mario Xavier for his outstanding knowledge and passion for Ecuador, plus his tips and recommendations, and last but not least, thanks to everyone working hard behind the scenes – including Cheree Broughton and Neill Coen.

Brian KluepfelThanks to MaSovaida Morgan, Sandra Patiño, Cesar ‘La Tortuga’ Soledispa (best taxista ever), Ingo, Carlos Zorrilla, Sandra Statz, Polivio Perez, Diana and Vlady, Ignacio de la Torre at La Roulotte, Goyon Benchwick, and my amazing wife, Paula Zorrilla, who lets me go on these amazing adventures as long as I bring back cool presents from the airports.

MaSovaida MorganDeepest thanks to the countless kind souls who helped me navigate this magical place – in particular, Jaci Bruns, Regis St Louis, Jackie Vazquez, Erick Ortiz, Luis Jaramillo and the Galaven crew. Thanks also to my co-writers for a smooth project while I wore two hats, Simon Williamson for showing mercy, and Evan Godt for pulling strings with the quickness. As always, gratitude and love to Ny, Ty and Haj for always carrying me.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Wendy YanagiharaMany thanks to Jerry, Edgar, Carlos, and Gennaro in Cuenca; Lauro in Saraguro; Rodrigo in Baeza; and all of my fantastic guides in Amazonía: Andrés, Gabriel, Fabricio, Livio, Victor, Carlos, and Sergio. I am grateful most of all to Luis Hernández and Fernando Vaca for their invaluable logistics help and expertise. Thanks also to Laura, Victoria, and John, my support crew at home.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Baby sea lion on Isla Santiago, Galápagos Islands, MindStorm/Shutterstock©

THIS BOOKThis 11th edition of Lonely Planet’s Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands guidebook was researched and written by Isabel Albiston, Jade Bremner, Brian Kluepfel, MaSovaida Morgan and Wendy Yanagi-hara, and curated by Isabel. The previous edition was

written by Regis St Louis, Greg Benchwick, Michael Grosberg and Luke Waterson. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editors MaSovaida MorganProduct Editor Sandie KestellSenior Cartographer Corey HutchisonBook Designer Gwen Cotter

Assisting Editors Katie Connolly, Samantha Forge, Lou McGregor, Sarah Reid, Sarah Stewart, Sam Wheeler, Simon WilliamsonAssisting Cartographer James LevershaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Jessica Ryan, Saralinda Turner

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Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodations 382-3, see

also individual locationsAchupallas 189activities 20, 32-8, see also

individual activities & locations

addresses 387Afro-Ecuadorian music 372Agato 108Agua Blanca 291Aguas Termales de

Guayllabamba 168Ahuano 236-8air travel 391, 392-3, 393Alausí 169-70Aloasí 131, 134altitude sickness 72Amazon River 363Ambato 147-50, 148amphibians 375-6amusement parks 61animals 343-54, 373-6,

343-54, see also birds, individual species

Apuela 118archaeological museums,

see also museums & galleries

Agua Blanca 291Archaeological Museum

291-2Casa del Alabado 59Museo Antropológico y de

Arte Contemporáneo 272

Museo Arqueológico del Banco Central 267

Museo Arqueológico y Etnográfico Atahualpa 113

Museo de las Culturas Aborígenes 177

Museo del Banco Central ‘Pumapungo’ 175-7

Museo Manuel Agustín Landivar 177

Museo Presley Norton 277Salango Archaeological

Museum 293archaeological sites, see

also historic buildings & sites

Archaeological Park 177Ingapirca 188, 29Parque Nacional

Machalilla 290-2, 291Pucará del Salitre 135

Archidona 227architecture 370

colonial period 20, 54-63, 362, 370

area codes 19, 388Arenillas 305art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 370-2, see also craftsAtacames 255-7, 256Atahualpa 360, 361ATMs 386ayahuasca 220Ayampe 292-3Azogues 190

BBaeza 210-12Bahía de Caráquez 264-

7, 265bananas 302, 380Baños 16, 151-7, 152-3, 16

accommodations 155-6activities 153-4courses 155drinking & nightlife 156-7festivals & events 155food 156information 157shopping 157sights 152-3tours 155

travel to/from 157travel within 157

Baños village 190bathrooms 388beaches 11, 22, 11

Bahía de Caráquez 264Canoa 262-3Cerro de las Tijeretas 324Cojimíes 262Isla Española 335Isla Genovesa 335Isla San Cristóbal 320, 321Isla Santa Cruz 309, 310Manta 267Parque Nacional

Machalilla 292Playa Negra 261Puerto Ayora 311Puerto Baquerizo Moreno

321-2Salinas 298

Biblián 190bicycle travel, see cycling,

mountain bikingbirds 346-9, 374, 13, 15, 16,

35, 346-9bird-watching 33-4, 374, 375

Isla Española 334-5Isla Floreana 334Isla Genovesa 335Isla Isabela 328Isla San Cristóbal 321Jambelí 304Junín 119Loja 194Macará 205Macas 243Mindo 16, 123, 124, 16Parque Nacional

Cotopaxi 136Parque Nacional Yasuní

223Podocarpus National Park

197-8Reserva Buenaventura

305Santay Island 278

boat toursAtacames 255Galápagos Islands 40-2Guayaquil 278Isla Salango 293Mompiche 261

boat travel 392, 393-4books 356, 364, 365, 366,

367bird-watching 375Galápagos Islands 341history 361, 366indigenous culture 364,

368nature 378

border crossings 392Colombia 121, 214, 250,

392Peru 197, 222, 305-6, 392

Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco 287-8

bottlenose dolphins 344, 344-5

budget 19bungee jumping, see

puentingbus travel 392, 394, 395bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 19, 386butterflies 122-3

CCabañas San Isidro 210Cabañas Yankuam 200cable cars 122Cajabamba 169Camino del Inca 189camping 382Cañar 190Canoa 262-4canyoning 38car travel 392, 394-5Carnaval 23, 72, 161, 179,

279, 24Catacocha 204-5cathedrals, see churches &

cathedrals

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

406

IND

EX C-F

caving 38Cueva de los Tayos 119Cuevas de Jumandí 227Gualaquiza 245Nueva Tarquí 245

Cayambe 100cell phones 18, 388cemeteries

Cementerio (Otavalo) 102-3

Cementerio de Tulcán 120

City Cemetery (Guayaquil) 277

central highlands 49, 130-70, 132-3

accommodations 130climate 130highlights 132-3hiking 130national parks &

reserves 131travel seasons 130

Cerro de las Tijeretas 321, 324

Cerro Santa Ana 273Chachi people 369cheeses 162chicha 236children, travel with 62,

383cholera 385Chordeleg 189Chugchilán 145-6chumbis 190churches & cathedrals,

see also convents & monasteries

Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Agua Santa 152

Basílica del Voto Nacional 60-1

Basílica (Riobamba) 164Basilica Santisima Virgen

de Montserrat 269Capilla de Cantuña 59Catedral de la

Inmaculada Concepción 175

Catedral Metropolitana 55

Cathedral Bolívar 276-7Cathedral de Ibarra 113Cathedral (Loja) 193Cathedral (Riobamba)

164, 29

Church of El Carmen de la Asunción 174

Church of La Merced 264

Church of San Blas 175Church of San Francisco

174Church of San Sebastián

193Church of Santo

Domingo 193El Sagrario 175Iglesia Cristo Salvador

329Iglesia de la Compañía

de Jesús 56-7, 88Iglesia de Santo

Domingo (Guayaquil) 273

Iglesia de Santo Domingo (Ibarra) 113

Iglesia de Santo Domingo (Quito) 60

Iglesia La Merced 61-2Iglesia San Jacinto del

Morro 301La Balbanera 169Our Lady of Macas

Cathedral 242Santuario de Guápulo 67Templo de Lourdes 204

climate 18, 23-5, see also individual regions

climbing 21-2, see also hiking

Baños 154El Altar 14, 159, 14Latacunga 139Quito 68Reserva Ecológica Los

Ilinizas 134Volcán Chimborazo

162-3, 165Volcán Imbabura 116Volcán Pichincha 68

cloud forests 128-9, 376-7Coca 216-19, 217Cofán people 369coffee 194Cojimíes 262consulates 384convents & monasteries,

see also churches & cathedrals

Convento de San Diego 62-3

Convento San Agustín 60

Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco 59

Monasterio Museo del Carmen Alto 59-60

Monasterio Museo Santa Catalina de Siena 60

Correa, Rafael 356-7, 366-7Corredor Turistico

Galera-San Francisco 259

Cotacachi 111-12Cotundo 227courses, see also individual

locations, language courses

dance 69meditation 202

crafts, see also marketschumbis 190panama hats 183, 269,

365tagua carvings 104,

168, 296credit cards 386Cuenca 10, 49, 171-86,

176-7, 11accommodations 171,

180-2climate 171courses 179drinking & nightlife 184entertainment 184festivals & events 179-80food 171, 182-4highlights 172-3history 174information 185-6shopping 185sights 174-9tours 179travel seasons 171travel to/from 186travel within 186

culture, see indigenous peoples & culture

currency 18, 366cycling 393, see also

mountain bikingGualaquiza 245Puerto Ayora 314Puerto Baquerizo

Moreno 323Puerto Villamil 329Quito 67-8, 69Riobamba 165Ruta de las Cascadas

158Vilcabamba 201

Ddance 90dangers, see safetyDarwin, Charles 311, 332,

337

Darwin Lake 326-7de Orellana, Francisco 363dengue fever 385disabilities, travelers with

388-9diving 35-6, see also

snorkelingGalápagos Islands

45, 44Montañita 294Puerto Ayora 313-14Puerto Baquerizo

Moreno 323Puerto López 289

dolphins 344, 344-5Dos Mangas 296driving, see car traveldry forests 378DVDs 387

Eecology 339-41economy 356-7, 366-7El Altar 14, 159, 14El Ángel 120El Bosque Petrificado

Puyango 304El Chaco 212El Chaupi 134El Cisne 198El Junco Lagoon 320El Lechero 102El Morro 298, 301El Panecillo 61El Progreso 320-1electricity 383embassies 384emergencies 19

language 400environmental issues 368

Galápagos Islands 339-41mangroves 266mining 261oil 364-5, 367

Esmeraldas 253-5, 254events, see festivals &

eventsevolution 338exchange rates 19

FFerrocarril Transandino 170festivals & events 23-5,

see also individual locations

Carnaval 23, 72, 161, 179, 279, 24

Fiesta de la Mamá Negra 25, 139

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

407IN

DEX F-L

Fiestas de Quito 25, 72-3Inti Raymi 24, 104, 5Semana Santa 23, 72,

180, 24films 356fish 353fishing 255, 299food 379-80, 225, see also

individual locationschicha 236costs 384internet resources 380language 398-9local specialties 195

forts 273

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesGalápagos fur seals 344,

344Galápagos Islands 50,

307-54, 308, 39, 42, 46, 47

accommodations 307climate 307food 307highlights 308history 336-7planning 39-47, 341tours 40-2travel seasons 40, 307travel to/from 341-2travel within 342wildlife 343-54, 8-9, 43,

44, 343-54Galápagos sea lions 344,

43, 345gardens, see parks &

gardensgay travelers 85, 386geography 354, 373geology 337-9, 354giant tortoises 321, 329,

350, 351Girón 190glaciers 135green sea turtles 350, 37,

44, 350-1Grutas de la Paz 119Gualaceo 188-9Gualaquiza 245Guamote 169Guano 168Guaranda 161Guayaquil 16, 272-87, 274-

5, 281, 16accommodations 279-82activities 272-7

climate 270drinking & nightlife 284-5entertainment 285festivals & events 279food 282-4history 272information 286shopping 285-6sights 272-7tours 277-9travel seasons 270travel to/from 286-7travel within 287

Guayasamín, Oswaldo 63, 370

guinea pigs 56, 79, 112, 143, 195

Hhammerhead sharks 353,

352-3handicrafts, see craftshealth 384-5hiking 21-2, 33, see also

climbingBaeza 210Baños 154Bosque Protegido

Washapamba 191Camino del Inca 189Cañon del Toachi 142Isinliví 146Isla de la Plata 292Isla Santa Cruz 309Laguna de Cuicocha

112-13Laguna Quilotoa 143-4Lagunas de Mojanda 110Mindo 16Otavalo 103Papallacta 207Parque Nacional

Cotopaxi 136Parque Nacional

Machalilla 292Parque Nacional

Podocarpus 13, 197-9, 13

Parque Nacional Sumaco Napo Galeras 226

Patate 151Quilotoa Loop 12, 144, 12Refugio de Vida Silvestre

Pasochoa 97Reserva Biológica Bilsa

259Reserva Ecológica

Cayambe-Coca 101Reserva Ecológica Los

Ilinizas 134

Vilcabamba 200-1Volcán Chimborazo 163

historic buildings & sites, see also archaeological sites

Muro de las Lágrimas 328-9

Palacio Municipal 276Post Office Bay 334Tagus Cove 327

history 22, 358-67colonial era 362discovery of oil 364-5Galápagos Islands 336-7Inca empire 359-61independence 362-3pre-Inca period 358-9Spanish conquistadors

361-2hitchhiking 395holidays 386-7Holy Week 23, 72, 180, 24horseback riding 38

Baños 154Dos Mangas 296Parque Nacional

Machalilla 292Vilcabamba 200-1

hot springs, see thermal springs

Huaoranis people 369Huaquillas 305-6Huayna Capac 359-60

IIbarra 113-16, 114iguanas 9, 319, 329, 332,

350, 8-9, 44, 350Ilumán 108immigration 391indigenous peoples &

culture 22, 175, 368-9Chachi people 369Cofán people 369Huaoranis people 369Kichwa people 368Saraguro people 191Shuar people 369Tsáchilas people 249

Ingapirca 188, 29insurance 385Intag Valley 117-19internet access 385internet resources 19, 388Inti Raymi 24, 104, 5Isinliví 146-7Isla Bartolomé 333Isla Corazón 265Isla Darwin 336

Isla de la Plata 292Isla Española 334-5Isla Fernandina 332Isla Floreana 333-4Isla Genovesa 335Isla Isabela 326-32, 327Isla Lobos 321Isla Marchena 335-6Isla Pinta 335-6Isla Portete 262Isla Rábida 333Isla Salango 292Isla San Cristóbal 319-

26, 320Isla Santa Cruz 308-18,

310Isla Santa Fé 319Isla Santiago 332-3, 327Isla Seymour 318-19Isla Sombrero Chino 333Isla Wolf 336Islas Daphne 319Islas Plazas 319itineraries 26-31, 54, 26,

27, 28, 30, 31

JJambelí 303-4Jima 190jungle lodges

Río Napo region (lower) 219-23, 219

Río Napo region (upper) 235-8

jungle trips 212-13Baños 155Canoa 263Coca 216Puyo 239Tena 230

Junín 119

KKapawi 245kayaking 36, 45-6

Baeza 210Puerto Baquerizo

Moreno 323Tena 229-30

Kichwa language 398Kichwa people 368killer whales 344

LLa Chocolatera 298La Esperanza 116-17La Mitad del Mundo

95-6, 89

408

IND

EX L-M

La Moya 189La Punta 236-8La Rotonda 273La Virgen del Cisne 198Lago Agrio 213-14Laguna de Colta 168-9Laguna de Cuicocha

112-13, 34Laguna de las Ninfas 311Laguna de San Pablo 108Laguna Pañacocha 222,

225Laguna Quilotoa 143Lagunas de Atillo 160Lagunas de Mojanda

109-10land iguanas 319, 350,

44, 350language 18, 397-402language courses 385

Baños 155Cuenca 179Montañita 294Otavalo 103Quito 68-9

Las Grietas 314Las Lagunas 190Las Tunas 292-3Latacunga 138-42, 140-1lava lizards 350, 351lava tunnels 309legal matters 385León Dormido 319-20lesbian travelers 85, 386lighthouses 273literature 370-1, see also

booksLoja 191-7, 192, 21

accommodations 194-5drinking & nightlife 196festivals & events 194food 195-6information 196sights 192-4tours 194travel to/from 196-7travel within 196-7

Los Gemelos 309-10lowlands 50, 246, 247

MMacará 205Macas 241-4, 242Machachi 131, 134

Machala 302-3, 303Machay 158magazines 387Mahuad, Jamil 365-6malaria 385mammals 344-5, 374-5mangroves 266, 378Manta 267-9, 268manta rays 353, 2marimba 251, 372marine iguanas 329, 332,

350, 8-9, 343markets 20

Alausí 170Ambato 147Catacocha 204-5Cuenca 185Guamote 169Latacunga 139Otavalo 17, 101, 104,

2, 17Riobamba 164Salasaca 150Saquisilí 147Saraguro 191Zumbahua 143

measures 387Mera 158Mindo 122-7

accommodations 125-6activities 123food 126-7information 127sights 122-3tours 123travel to/from 127travel within 127

mineral springs, see thermal springs

mines 304Misahuallí 232-5Mitad del Mundo 95, 89mobile phones 18, 388Mocha 151Mompiche 260-2money 18, 19, 306, 386money changers 306Montañita 294-7Montecristi 269Mosquera 318-19motorcycle travel 392,

394-5mountain biking 35

Baños 154Mindo 123Otavalo 103Parque Nacional

Cotopaxi 136Puerto López 288

Riobamba 165Quito 67-8Volcán Chimborazo

163, 165mountaineering 34-5, see

also climbing, hikingMuisne 259-60museums & galleries, see

also archaeological museums

Capilla de Cantuña 59Capilla del Hombre 63Casa de la Cultura 139Casa de los Marqueses

de Miraflores 139Casa Museo

Guayasamín 63Casa Museo María

Augusta Urrutía 57Casa y Mausoleo de

Montalvo 147Centro Comunitaria de

Educación Ambiental Miguel Cifuentes Arias 311

Centro Cultural Esmeraldas 254

Centro Cultural Ibarra 113

Centro Cultural Itchimbia 62

Centro Cultural Metropolitano 55

Centro de Arte Contemporáneo 61

Centro Interamericano de Artes Populares 177-8

Centro Visitantes 135Convento de San Diego

62-3Convento San Agustín

60El Museo Fábrica Textil

Imbabura 108Galería Arte de Tigua 142Galería Luís Potosí

113-14Interpretation Center

321Los Amantes de Sumpa

298MACCO 216MAPRAE 311Mindalae – Museo

Etnográfico de Artesanía de Ecuador 66-7

Monasterio Museo del Carmen Alto 59-60

Monasterio Museo Santa Catalina de Siena 60

Mundo Juvenil 62

Museo Alberto Mena Caamaño 58

Museo Bahía de Caráquez 264-5

Museo Camilo Egas 62Museo Casa de Sucre

57-8Museo de Arte

Colonial 62Museo de Arte

Moderno 174Museo de Arte

Religioso 164Museo de Ciencias

Naturales (Ambato) 147

Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Quito) 67

Museo de la Ciudad (Cuenca) 175

Museo de la Ciudad (Quito) 59

Museo de la Ciudad (Riobamba) 165

Museo de la Cultura Lojana 193

Museo de la Música 193Museo de la Musica

Popular Guayaquileña Julio Jaramillo 273

Museo de las Culturas 111

Museo del Agua-Yaku 62Museo del Monasterio

de las Conceptas 175Museo del Monasterio

de Madres Concepcionistas 193

Museo del Pueblo Salasaca 150

Museo en Miniatura ‘Guayaquil en la Historia’ 272-3

Museo Etnoarqueológico 239

Museo Franciscano 59Museo Fray Enrique

Mideros 152-3Museo Fray Pedro

Bedón 60Museo Historico de

Montecristi 269Museo Interactivo de

Ciencia 62Museo Municipal 277Museo Nacional 63Museo Nahim Isaias 273Museo Pictórico

Edmundo Martínez 148Museo Provincial Casa

del Portal 147Museo Solar Inti Ñan

95-6

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

409IN

DEX M

-Q

Museos Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana 63

Museum (Chordeleg) 189

Parque Histórico Guayaquil 277

Plaza de la Independencia 193

Prohibido Museo de Arte Extremo 178

Quinta de Juan Montalvo 149

Quito Observatory 66Tahuantinsuyo Weaving

Workshop 108Templo del Sol 96-7Whale Museum 298-9

music 365, 371-2música folklórica 371

NNational Assembly 63, 66national parks 377, 378,

see also cloud forests, parks & gardens, reserves

Parque Nacional Cajas 186-8, 187

Parque Nacional Cotopaxi 10, 135-8, 136, 10, 32

Parque Nacional Llanganates 151

Parque Nacional Machalilla 290-2, 291

Parque Nacional Podocarpus 13, 197-9, 13

Parque Nacional Sangay 159-60

Parque Nacional Sumaco-Galeras 210

Parque Nacional Sumaco Napo Galeras 226-7

Parque Nacional Yasuní 10, 223, 226, 10

newspapers 387north coast 50, 246-69, 247

accommodations 246climate 246food 246highlights 247travel seasons 246

northern highlands 48, 98-129, 99

accommodations 98climate 98food 98highlights 99travel seasons 98

Nuevo Rocafuerte 222-3Numa Pompilio Llona 293

Ooil industry 364-5, 367Olón 293-4opening hours 19, 386Oriente 49, 206-45, 208-9

accommodations 206climate 206food 206highlights 208-9travel seasons 206

Otavalo 17, 101-8, 102accommodations 105courses 103drinking & nightlife 107entertainment 107food 105-7shopping 107sights 101-3tours 103-4travel to/from 107-8

Oyacachi 101Ozogoche 160

Ppainting 370

Quito School of Art 371Tigua paintings 145

paja toquilla hats 183, 269, 365

Palacio Arzobispal 55Palacio de Gobierno 55panama hats, see paja

toquilla hatspaño 175Papallacta 12, 207, 210, 12paragliding 298

Canoa 263Ibarra 114Puerto López 289San Pedro 298

páramo 377Paredones 189parks & gardens, see also

national parksArmonía Orchid Garden

123Jardín Botánico 67Jardín Botánico las

Orquídeas 238Parque 21 de Abril 164Parque Acuático Los

Elenes 168Parque Botánico 244Parque del Centenario

277

Parque El Ejido 63Parque Etnobotánico

Omaere 238Parque Histórico

Guayaquil 277Parque Itchimbia 62Parque La Carolina 67Parque La Libertad 164Parque Maldonado 164Parque Recreacional 242Parque Recreacional

Jipiro 194Parque Universitario

PUEAR 194Parque Vicente León 139Paseo de los Monos 238Quinta de Juan León

Mera 148Río Yanuncay 179

Parque Nacional Cajas 186-8, 187

Parque Nacional Cotopaxi 10, 135-8, 136, 10, 32

Parque Nacional Machalilla 290-2, 291

Parque Nacional Podocarpus 13, 197-9, 13

Parque Nacional Sangay 159-60

Parque Nacional Sumaco Napo Galeras 226-7

Parque Nacional Yasuní 10, 223, 226, 10

pasillo 371passports 391Patate 151Paute 190Peguche 110-11Pelileo 151Peña de Shiriculapo 204Peru 305-6petrified forests 304Píllaro 151planning, see also

individual regionsbudgeting 19calendar of events 23-5children, travel with

62, 383Ecuador basics 18-19Ecuador’s regions 48-50internet resources 19itineraries 26-31, 54, 26,

27, 28, 30, 31repeat visitors 60travel seasons 18, 23-5

Playa de Oro 252-3Playa Mansa 311Playa Negra 261

Playas 301Plaza Grande 55, 88-9Plaza Lagos 285plazas

Malecón 2000 272Malecón El Salado 277Parque Calderón 174-5Parque Central 193Parque La Merced 113Parque Pedro Moncayo

113Plaza de San Francisco

174Plaza de San Sebastián

174Plaza Grande 55, 88-9Plaza Lagos 285Plaza San Francisco

(Quito) 58-9Plaza Santo Domingo

(Loja) 193Plaza Santo Domingo

(Quito) 60politics 356-7, 364, 365-6polleras 175population 357postal services 386Pozo Salinas 329public holidays 386-7puenting 38Puerto Ayora 311-18, 312-

13, 41accommodations 315-16activities 311-14drinking & nightlife 317food 316-17information 317-18shopping 317sights 311-14tours 314-15travel to/from 318travel within 318

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno 321-6, 322

Puerto Bolívar 303-4Puerto Egas 332Puerto López 288-90Puerto Velasco Ibarra 334Puerto Villamil 328-32Pulinguí San Pablo 163Punta Espinoza 332Punta Suárez 15, 334-5Puyango 304Puyo 238-41, 239, 225

QQuilotoa 143-4Quilotoa Loop 12, 142-7,

143, 12

410

IND

EX Q-T

Quisapincha 151Quito 9, 48, 52-95, 53,

9, 88-9accommodations 52,

73-9activities 67-8children, travel with 62climate 52courses 68-9drinking & nightlife

85-7entertainment 87, 90festivals & events 72-3food 52, 79-85highlights 53history 54itineraries 54Mariscal Sucre 75-8,

81-3, 76new town 63-7, 64-5old town 54-63, 73-5,

79-81, 56-7safety 92shopping 90-1sights 54-67tourist information 92tours 69, 71-2travel seasons 52travel to/from 92-3travel within 93-5walking tours 70, 70

Rrafting, see white-water

raftingrainforests 376Refugio de Vida Silvestre

Pasochoa 97religion 357reptiles 350-1, 375-6Reserva Biológica Bilsa

259Reserva Biológica

Guandera 119-20Reserva Biológica Jatun

Sacha 236Reserva Ecológica

Cayambe-Coca 101, 212Reserva Ecológica

Cotacachi-Cayapas 112-13, 253

Reserva Ecológica Los Ilinizas 134-5

Reserva Ecológica Manglares Churute 301-2

Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno 215-16

reserves 378Bosque Nublado Santa

Lucía 128Bosque Protector Cerro

Blanco 287-8Congal Bio-Station 260Jorupe Reserve 205Kapawi Reserve 245Refugio de Vida Silvestre

Pasochoa 97Refugio Ecológico Tzanka

199Reserva Biológica Bilsa

259Reserva Biológica

Guandera 119-20Reserva Biológica Jatun

Sacha 236Reserva Biológica

Maquipucuna 128Reserva Buenaventura

305Reserva de Producción

de Fauna Chimborazo 162

Reserva Ecológica al Bosque Paraíso 245

Reserva Ecológica Antisana 210

Reserva Ecológica Cayambe-Coca 101, 212

Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi-Cayapas 112-13, 253

Reserva Ecológica El Ángel 120

Reserva Ecológica Los Ilinizas 134-5

Reserva Ecológica Manglares Churute 301-2

Reserva Ecológico de Manglares Cayapas-Mataje 250-1

Reserva Ecologico Jama-Coaque 263

Reserva Geobotánica Pululahua 96

Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno 215-16

Tapichalaca Reserve 204Río Chota Valley 119Río Napo region (lower)

219-23, 219Río Napo region (upper)

235-8Río Negro 158Río Verde 157-9

Riobamba 164-8, 166-7Ruta de las Cascadas 157-9Ruta Spondylus 288-97

Ssafety 250, 387

Cuenca 185Galápagos Islands 46-7Guayaquil 286Quito 92

Salango 292-3Salasaca 150-1Salinas (central highlands)

161-2Salinas (south coast)

298-300Sally Lightfoot crabs 353,

352Same 258-9San Carlos 210San Francisco 158San Lorenzo 250-1San Miguel 251-2San Rafael Falls 211, 224sanjuanito 372Santa Elena Peninsula

297-306Santa Rosa 305Santay Island 278Santo Domingo de Los

Colorados 248-9Saquisilí 147Saraguro 190-1Saraguro people 191sculpture 370Semana Santa 23, 72,

180, 24Shalalá 145Shuar people 369Sigchos 146Sigsig 189-90smoking 387snorkeling 35-6, see also

divingIsla de la Plata 292Isla Floreana 334Isla Isabela 327, 328Isla San Cristóbal 321Las Grietas 314Puerto Baquerizo

Moreno 323, 324Puerto Villamil 329

south coast 50, 270-306, 271

accommodations 270climate 270food 270highlights 271travel seasons 270

southern highlands 49, 171-205, 172-3

accommodations 171food 171highlights 172-3national parks 174travel seasons 171

spa treatments 154Spanish language 18,

397-402Súa 257-8Sucúa 244-5Sullivan Bay 332surfing 36

Canoa 263Isla Portete 262Mompiche 261Montañita 15, 294,

15, 36Puerto Ayora 314Puerto Baquerizo

Moreno 323Puerto López 288Puerto Villamil 329

sustainability 162swimming 168, 199

TTapichalaca Reserve 204taxis 395TelefériQo 13, 61, 13telephone services 18, 388Tena 227-32, 228

accommodations 230-1activities 229-30drinking & nightlife 232entertainment 232food 231-2information 232sights 229-30tours 230travel to/from 232travel within 232

thermal springsAguas Hediondas 121Aguas Termales de

Guayllabamba 168Apuela 118Baños 153-4Baños village 190Chachimbiro hot springs

112Papallacta 12, 207, 12Volcán Chiles 121

Tigua 142-3, 145time 18, 388tipping 386Tisaleo 151

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

411IN

DEX T-Z

toilets 388Tonchigüe 258-9Tonsupa 257tourist information 388tours 395-6, see also boat

toursAtacames 255Ambato 149Baños 155Coca 216-17Cuenca 179Esmeraldas 254Galápagos Islands 40-2Guayaquil 277-9Latacunga 139-40Loja 194Macas 242-3Mindo 123Misahuallí 234Otavalo 103-4Puerto Ayora 314-15Puerto Baquerizo

Moreno 323Puerto López 288-9Puerto Villamil 329Puyo 239Quito 69-72Reserva Producción

Faunística Cuyabeno 215

Riobamba 165Salinas 161San Lorenzo 250-1Saraguro 191Tena 230Vilcabamba 202

train travel 396Guayaquil 278Nariz del Diablo 170Tren de la Libertad 117Tren del Hielo I 165Tren del Hielo II 149Tren de los Volcanes 131Tren Ecuador 104Quito 71

travel to/from Ecuador 391-2

travel within Ecuador 392-6

treehouses 321trekking see hikingTren de la Libertad 117truck travel 396Tsáchilas people 249tubing 38Tulcán 120-2Tuncarta 190typhoid 385tzantza 369

Vvacations 386-7Valle de los Petroglifos 227Vía Auca 219Vilcabamba 14, 200-4,

201, 14visas 18, 389volcanoes

Volcán Alcedo 326Volcán Cayambe 101Volcán Chiles 121Volcán Chimborazo

162-4, 21Volcán Cotopaxi 10, 135,

138, 10Volcán El Altar 159-60,

238Volcán Imbabura 116Volcán Pichincha 68Volcán Pululahua 96-7Volcán Reventador

212-13Volcán Rumiñahui 136Volcán Sangay 160, 242Volcán Sierra Negra 326Volcán Sumaco 226Volcán Tungurahua 159Volcán Wolf 327

volunteering 389-90

Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours 70, 70waterfalls

Baños del Inka 190Cascada de Taxopamba

110

Cascada el Palto 201Cascada Las Culebrillas

245Cascada Las Latas 235Cascada Nambillo 122Cascada Poderosa 198Cascadas de Peguche

110Chismosa Waterfalls 198Manantial del Dorado

158Manto de La Novia

Waterfalls 158Pailón del Diablo 157-8San Rafael Falls 211, 224

weather 18, 23-5, see also individual regions

websites 19weights 387whale-watching 13, 38

Bahía de Caráquez 264Isla de la Plata 13,

292, 13Mompiche 261Puerto López 288Salinas 299Tonsupa 257

white-water rafting 36-8Baeza 210Baños 154Tena 17, 229-30, 17

wildlife 343-54, 373-6, 343-54, see also birds

wildlife reserves & sanctuaries, see also national parks, reserves, zoos

AmaZOOnico 237Charles Darwin Research

Station 311El Chato Tortoise

Reserve 309Galapaguera 320Jorupe Reserve 205Los Galápagos 321Ochoa Beach 320Parque Cóndor 102Playa de Oro Reserva de

Tigrillos 252

Pozo Villamil 329Rancho Primicias 309Refugio Ecológico Tzanka

199Reserva Alto Coca 212-13Turtle Bay 321

wildlife-watching 21, see also whale-watching, wildlife reserves & sanctuaries, zoos

Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco 287-8

Elizabeth Bay 328Galápagos Islands 343-

54, 8-9, 35, 37, 43, 44, 343-54

Isla Isabela 328Isla San Cristóbal 319Isla Santiago 332Reserva Alto Coca 212-13Reserva Biológica Bilsa

259women travelers 390work 390World Heritage Sites

Cuenca 10, 174-9, 11Galápagos Islands 50,

307-42Quito old town 54-63

Yyellow fever 385

ZZamora 199-200zarcillas 175Zaruma 304-5ziplining 38, 37zoos, see also wildlife

reserves & sanctuariesParque Amazónico La

Isla 229Parque Histórico

Guayaquil 277Vivarium 67

Zumba 204Zumbahua 143

412

NO

TES

413

Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to social@lonelyplanet.com We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

SON

IA G

OU

PIL

LONELY PLANET WILDIN THE

414

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Wendy Yanagihara Cuenca & the Southern Highlands, The Oriente Wendy serendipitously landed her dream job of writing for Lonely Planet in 2003, and has spent the intervening years contributing to titles including Southeast Asia on a Shoestring, Vietnam, Japan, Mexico, Costa Rica, Indonesia, and Grand Canyon National Park. In the name of research, she has hiked remote valleys of West Papua, explored tiny nooks and alleys of Tokyo sprawl, trekked on a Patagonian glacier, and rafted

Colorado River whitewater. Wendy has also written for BBC Travel, the Guardian, Lonely Planet Magazine, lonelyplanet.com, and intermittently freelances as a graphic designer, illustrator, and visual artist. Wendy also wrote the Survival Guide section of this book.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415311th edition – Aug 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 062 8© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSIsabel AlbistonQuito, Central Highlands After six years working for the Daily Telegraph in Lon-don, Isabel left to spend more time on the road. A job as writer for a magazine in Sydney, Australia, was followed by a four-month overland trip across Asia and five years living and working in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Isabel started writing for Lonely Planet in 2014 and has contributed to 10 guidebooks. She’s currently based in Madrid, Spain. Isabel also wrote the Plan section of this book.

Jade BremnerSouth Coast Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. She has lived in and reported on four different regions. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try, the weirder the better, and it’s no coincidence many of her favorite places have some of the best waves in the world. Jade has edited travel mag-azines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times and has contributed to the Times, CNN and the Independent. She feels privileged to share tales from this

wonderful planet we call home and is always looking for her next adventure.

Brian KluepfelNorth Coast & Lowlands, Northern Highlands Brian had lived in three states and seven different residences by the time he was nine, and he’s just kept moving ever since, making stops in Berkeley, Bolivia, the Bronx and the ‘burbs further down the line. His journalistic work across the Americas has ranged from the Copa America soccer tournament in Paraguay to an accordion festival in Que-bec. He has contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Venezuela, Costa Rica,

Belize & Guatemala, and Bolivia. Brian is an avid birder and musician and dabbles in both on the road; his singing has been tolerated at open mics from Sámara, Costa Rica, to Beijing, China. Brian also wrote the Understand section of this book.

MaSovaida MorganThe Galápagos Islands After nearly four years as Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America and Antarctica, a last-minute research trip to the Galápagos Islands for this edition prompted MaSovaida to hang up her editor hat for good. As a newly minted guidebook writer, she’s also written about her hometown of Savannah, Georgia, and Korea for Lonely Planet. Learn more about her at www.masovaida.com, and follow her on Instagram, Twitter, and every-

where else on the internet @MaSovaida.

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MORE WRITERS

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’