ECOCERT & BDIHRequirements Presented At Hba

R&D GUIDELINES FOR DEVELOPING ECOCERT &

BDIH CERTIFIED PRODUCTS

by

Dr. Lambros Kromidas

L. Kromidas -- 9/9/08 2

Disclaimer

“The viewpoints expressed in this presentation are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of Coty Inc. The reader is also advised to contact ECOCERT and BDIH to

obtain the latest information.”

http://www.goforgreen.ca/images/logos/green_logo.jpg

L. Kromidas -- 9/9/08 3

Points of Discussion

Certifications and seals

R&D guidelines for developing an ECOCERT cosmetic product

R&D guidelines for developing a BDIH certified cosmetic product


L. Kromidas -- 9/9/08 4

Certifications & Seals

There are numerous recognized “Green” based certificates and seals that one may apply for depending on the product and what it is one wants to convey about their productCertification is a process based management system

Protects integrity of productDefines standards, practices, and materialCovers entire production and distribution process – from field to shelf

3rd Party verification or accreditationMay have government backing/recognition, trade group backing or simply self made

Provides consumer confidence


L. Kromidas -- 9/9/08 5

Example of Self Made Seal


L. Kromidas -- 9/9/08 6

The certified bio and ecologic cosmetics (organic). Non-governmental organization established in France but recognized by many others in Europe (http://www.ecocert.com/?lang=en).

BDIH Certified Natural Cosmetics. Non-governmental organization established in Germany but recognized by other countries in Europe (http://www.kontrollierte-naturkosmetik.de/en/bdih.htm).

UK Association of the organic agriculture. Non-governmental organization used for organic cosmetics in UK.

Note: not an exhaustive list.

Ecoflower/ecolabel. EU non-governmental organization whose purpose is to identify and promote products and services that are green oriented.

US Government certification for organic food but now also allowed on cosmetics.

Most Recognized Seals

US independent non-profit organization whose purpose is to identify and promote products and services that are green oriented.


L. Kromidas -- 9/9/08 7

Sept. ’06 -- Organic Monitorconsumers are unable to differentiate between products that are certified by organizations like BDIH and Soil Association

Nov. ’07 – Organic Monitor79% of natural/organic cosmetic buyers are willing to pay extra for certified products

However only 35% of consumers looked for certification logos when buying natural products

Certification & Seals


L. Kromidas -- 9/9/08 8

Recently some European certification bodies, including Ecocert, BDIH, and Soil Association, are attempting to harmonize their respective systems

They plan to introduce the natural and organic standards [in June 2008]

It’s a 1st step in introducing European wide standards

Certification & Seals


R&D GUIDELINES FOR DEVELOPING AN ECOCERT

PRODUCT

L. Kromidas -- 9/9/08

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Product Formula

NATURALNATURAL & ORGANIC


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Ingredients

• Ingredients obtained by pure chemical synthesis are not allowed– Synthetic colourants --Synthetic

silicones– Synthetic perfumes --Petrochemicals– Synthetic anti-oxidants --Any ingredient that can– Synthetic emollients be naturally produced– Synthetic oils and fats

• Ingredients generating nitrosamines not allowed• Certain synthetic preservatives are allowed• Certain synthetic ingredients are allowed


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Allowed Synthetic Preservatives


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Allowed Synthetic Preservatives

• For preserving ingredients only


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Allowed Synthetic Ingredients

•As of June 28th, 2007:

KCl (Potassium chloride)

SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate)


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Allowed Synthetic Ingredients

• Anything regarded “indispensable”

• Specific to certain categories of products known to protect the consumer– Sunscreens and UV absorbers


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Natural Ingredients/Raw Material

• Unprocessed or obtained by physical means– Plant– Animal– Mineral– Marine

• Obtained via biotechnologies (in vitro cultures and cloning)– Cell culture– Fermentation with microorganisms

• Added H2O


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Permitted Physical Processes


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Permitted Natural Animal Ingredients


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Permitted Natural Ingredients of Mineral Origin -1


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Permitted Natural Ingredients of Mineral Origin-2


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Permitted Natural Ingredients of Marine Origin


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Naturally Derived Ingredients

• Natural ingredients processed by any of the following permitted chemical processes


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Permitted Chemical Processes


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Prohibited Processes


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Certified Organic Ingredients

• Complying with Organic Agriculture EEC Regulations – Plant ingredients– Product produced by animals but not

constituents to them

• Added H2O is a non-certified Organic ingredient


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• Cannot contain ingredients obtained from GMOs

• The finished product or its ingredients must not be submitted to treatments of ionizing rays

• Absence of nitrosamines

• Animal testing of the finished product is prohibited

Product Formula


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Product Formula

NATURALNATURAL & ORGANIC


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• Ecological

• Ecological and Organic

PDP

Claims/Advertising/Labeling


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Claims/Advertising/Labeling

INCI:

• Certified organic ingredients are to be indicated with an asterisk as follows:– E.g., Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*

• Referring to the indication:

“Ingredients issued from Organic Agriculture.”

R&D GUIDELINES FOR R&D GUIDELINES FOR DEVELOPING A NATURAL DEVELOPING A NATURAL

BDIH CERTIFIED PRODUCTBDIH CERTIFIED PRODUCT

http://www.kontrollierte-naturkosmetik.de/index.htm


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• There is no level of natural/organic content

• Cannot contain ingredients obtained from GMOs

• The finished product or its ingredients must not be submitted to treatments of radioactive radiation

• Animal testing of the finished product is prohibited

• Optimal degradability of finished formula

Product FormulaProduct Formula



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IngredientsIngredients

• Must be of the highest quality available• Traceable production using clear processes

– Exact composition– Extracting agents– Additives

• Only natural sources of raw materials, if possible certified by the EG-Bio-VO (EG regulation of ecological cultivation)

• Chemical processing should be kept to a minimum



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IngredientsIngredients

• Not obtained from an endangered species

• No GMO

• Optimal degradability of raw materials

• Not be disinfected with radioactive radiation

• Raw materials sourced from fair trading practices and Third World projects



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Natural Ingredients/Raw Natural Ingredients/Raw MaterialMaterial

• Unprocessed or obtained by physical means– Plant– Animal– Mineral– Marine

• Obtained via biotechnologies (in vitro cultures and cloning)– Cell culture– Fermentation with microorganisms

• Added H2O



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Plant Ingredients/Raw Plant Ingredients/Raw MaterialMaterial

• As far as possible, raw materials obtained from plants should be used from:– controlled biological cultivation (i.e., organic),

taking quality and availability into account, or– controlled biological wild collections (i.e.,

certified wild harvest)



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Plant Ingredients/Raw Plant Ingredients/Raw MaterialMaterial

• List of plants that must be organic:



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Animal Ingredients/Raw Animal Ingredients/Raw MaterialMaterial

• It is prohibited to use raw materials obtained from dead vertebrates– e.g., spermaceti– terrapin oil– mink oil– marmot fat– animal fats– animal collagen



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Mineral Ingredients/Raw Mineral Ingredients/Raw MaterialMaterial

• The use of inorganic salts and raw materials obtained from minerals is generally permitted, except as indicated under “prohibited ingredients”



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Allowed PreservativesAllowed Preservatives

• None preferred

• Natural preservatives

• Certain nature-identical preservatives are allowed such as:- benzoic acid, its salts and ethylester- salicylic acid and its salts- sorbic acid and its salts- benzyl alcohol



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Restricted Ingredients/Raw Restricted Ingredients/Raw MaterialMaterial

• It is permissible to use components which are extracted through:– Hydrolysis– Hydrogenation– Esterification– transesterification or other crackings and condensations

• from the following natural materials:– Fats– oils and waxes– Lecithins– Lanolin– Saccharides– proteins and lipoproteins



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Prohibited Ingredients/Raw Prohibited Ingredients/Raw MaterialMaterial

• organic-synthetic dyes• synthetic fragrances• ethoxylated raw materials• Silicones• paraffin and other petroleum products

• The criterion which determines which aromatic substances are permitted is mainly ISO 9235



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• Produced according to the BDIH guidelines• Other possible claims

– Ecological– Environmentally-friendly– Wholesome care– Claims related to organic– Ethoxylated products and glycols have not been used– The finished product has not been tested on animals– Paraben has not been used

Claims/Advertising/LabelingClaims/Advertising/Labeling



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INCI:

• When preservatives are used, products must be labeled:

“Preserved with ... [name of preservative]”



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INCI:• Natural essential oils are indicated with an

asterisk as follows:– E.g., Fragrance (Parfum)*, Limonene*,

Linalool*, Eugenol*, Benzyl alcohol*, Citral*, Farnesol*, etc.


“Natural essential oils”“Bestandteil naturlicher attherischer Ole”



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INCI:• Certified organic ingredients may be indicated

with an asterisk as follows:– E.g., Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*


“Ingredients from certified organic agriculture.”

“Aus biologischem Anbau”

or

“Rohstoffe aus kontrolliert biologischem Anbau”



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Finished ProductFinished Product

• A neutral control body checks that the above criteria are complied with– The respective association label is used to

indicate that the criteria have been complied with



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ECOCERT & BDIHRequirements Presented At Hba