ECO Studies Surf Jeopardy

Rules1. In each round a series of questions will be asked

2. The first person to raise their hand will be able to answer the question

3. If they get it wrong the opposite team gets a chance to steal (group conversation is allowed)

4. If you answer out of turn you forfeit your answer and the opposite team gets to steal

5. Each question is worth a set amount of points based on difficulty

6. The team with the most points at the end of the final jeopardy round wins!!

How Waves are Formed• Wind blowing across water initiates the movement of waves

due to friction between air and water• Wave size is dictated by three main factors, wind speed,

wind duration and fetch• Fetch is the distance that wind has to travel across a body of

water

Lake

Wind direction

Medium Waves

Large Waves

Small Waves

Fetch length

Wave Anatomy

Face

Wave Motion

Wave Types

Tides

Tides

• Tidal range and times can vary greatly along a single coast

• Diurnal = 1 tide per day

• Semi-Diurnal = 2 tidal cycles per day

• Always have a look at a

local tide table and/or

talk to some locals

before you surf!

Round 11. Name the three factors that impact Wave formation.

2. What is fetch?

3. What type of breaker would you expect on a steep beach

4. What type of breaker will you probably be surfing in Tofino?

5. What is the Choice wave for professional surfers?

6. The distance from one wave crest to the next wave crest is called what?

7. What shape best describes the path that a water particle travels while traveling as a wave?

8. Explain how a spring tide is produced.

Finding the Perfect Break

Shore Break

Point Break

Refraction

Refraction

Rip Currents

**If you get caught in a rip current always swim parallel to shore and then let the waves take you back in.

Round 2

1. On what type of break do you get a long straight even breaking wave?

2. What is the process called that leads to the bending of waves around obstacles?

3. Explain how a Point Break creates waves

4. Why do surfers like rip currents?

5. What is the term used for the longshore currents that meet to create a Rip?

6. If you are caught in a Rip what direction should you swim?

Humans and Coasts

How do man made obstacles impact the coast

How do man made obstacles impact the coast

• Shore line protections such as break walls or sea walls only enhance erosion due to increased scour

• Deepening of the water in front of an area makes it more prone to powerful wave action

• This type of coastal erosion is common in the Great Lakes

Natural Barriers

• Dune systems are extremely fragile

• People like to live and play in this fragile environment

• Without Natural Barriers inland areas are more susceptible to hurricane storm surges and accelerated coastal erosion

Responsible Coastal Management

Round 3

1. List two ways humans alter the coast in a detrimental fashion

2. Why is it dangerous/inappropriate to build hotels on barrier islands?

3. What is the safest part of the Dune to build on?

4. What is a groin designed to do?

5. Does building a sea wall fully protect your property against wave action?

Surf Boards

Nose

Rails

Fins

Tail

Deck

Surf Boards

Short Boards: Most common surfboard ranging from 5' to 7'6", and tend to be used for high-performance contest-style surfing. Shortboards usually have pointed noses and three fins, although other configurations are common. A shortboard sacrifices paddling and floatation for the sake of performance.

Long Boards: Usually over 9' in length. Their size makes them easier to paddle and get into waves sooner. Very good for beginners because of their stability. This is the board you will be using in Tofino

Surf Lingustics

Hang-loose: Hand signal used to signify “good luck” or “wicked ride”Tube/Barrel: Part of the wave that curls overTombstone: When you wipe out so bad that only the nose of the board

is left sticking up out of the waterBonzer: Australian term that is equivalent slang for “Awesome" The Man in the Gray suit: The term surfers in Australia use for a

shark Duck Diving: How you get under large waves while paddling outBrah: Your surf buddySex Wax: Waxy substance used to keep traction on your boardHang-ten: When riding your longboard you put all 10 toes over the

nose!

Surf Safety

Before entering the water we will learn how to:

1. Identify the best place to get in the water

2. Identify the best place to get out of the water

3. Identify any currents

4. Identify any rocks or reefs

Surf EtiquetteThe Drop In Rule

On all waves the surfer closest to the curl has right of way Snaking

(This is like a drop in reverse) Once riding a wave a surfer has ownership of that wave. The surfer should not be "snaked" and forced to hand over their right of way to someone else

Respect Surfers who respect youIf someone gives you a wave, give one back and be smiley about it.

Paddling outRemember that the surfer paddling out has a responsibility to stay clear of the surfing area. Collisions with people riding waves are painful, and cause un-necessary agro. Paddle wide of the breaking waves and you'll never get in anyone's way.

Round 4

1. Name 4 parts of a surfboard

2. What is the proper hand gesture for “Hang-Loose”?

3. Who would you rather hang out with, your Brah or the man in the gray suit?

4. Explain duck diving

5. Who get the right to take a wave?

6. Where should you paddle out?

Coastal ecology

• Coastal systems are some of the most important ecological areas on the planet

• They represent a transition between aquatic and terrestrial environments

• Coastal areas are highly sought after for recreational and residential use and therefore are in frequent conflict with people

• The following are two examples of how important and fragile coastal environments are

Mangroves• Mangroves act like a buffer zone

between tropical coasts and open water

• They provide thousands of aquatic species safe with a protective environment that would not exist otherwise

• Mangrove swamps are an important filter for sediment and human contaminants

• Mangroves often occur in estuarine (areas where fresh water meets salt water) environments and facilitate the distribution of nutrients from terrestrial runoff.

Mangroves• Mangrove Forests are readily being depleted world wide

for the construction of prawn farms, clearing for development or cut for construction of fire wood

• If Mangroves disappear the entire surrounding coastal ecosystem may be in jeopardy

Sea Turtles

• Many species of sea turtle are endangered

• Part of this reason is due to over harvesting of turtles for meat in some countries

• Primarily Sea turtles are endangered because of habitat loss

Sea Turtles• Sea turtles return to the same beach to nest that they were

born on.

• Turtles take over 30 years to mature

• Turtles get confused by ligths on beaches or changes in dune location

• Help is needed to ensure that all species of sea turtles can survive into the future.

Round 5

1. Why are Mangroves important?2. What is a major cause of Mangrove deforestation?3. What is the definition of an estuarine area or

estuary?4. How long to Sea Turtles take to mature?5. Why do lights on beaches present a problem for

sea turtles?6. What holiday is associated with large amounts of

turtle consumption?

Final Jeopardy

1. Translate the following sentence:

Me and my brah were sitting at the break waiting for a set to come in. All of a sudden the bonzer wave appeared and I yelled “Hang-loose”, my brah dropped into this gnarly wave tying to ride the barrel but got pitched and ended up tombstoned for a few seconds.

2. List four things you should always do before you enter the water to surf!!!!