( 5 )

OBJECTIVES I N DYEING SYNTHETIC FIBERS

D Y E F I B E R TO THE DESIRED SHADE

M A I N T A I N NECESSARY FASTNESS PROPERTIES

O B T A I N A LEVEL U N I F O R M D Y E I N G

PREVENT DESTRUCTION OF THE F A B R I C OR F I B E R S

M A I N T A I N COST LEVELS

--

I

POLYAMIDES -

MAJOR SYNTHETIC FIBERS

NYLON 6, N Y L O N 6, 6

POLYACRYLONITRILES - A C R Y L I C S M O D A C R Y L I C S

POLYESTERS (DISPERSE DYEABLE) (BASIC DYEABLE)

MODIFIED CELLULOSICS - t E \ f TRIACETATE.

1

DYES FOR A C R Y L I C FIBERS

CATIONIC DYES

DISPERSE DYES

A C I D DYES

FOR A C I D DYEABLE TYPE

--

POLYACRY LON I TR I LE F I BERS

I CN

ACRY LON I TR I LE

100% POLYACRYLONITRILE IS DIFFICULT TO DYE

ACRYLIC FIBERS

MODACRY LI C F I BERS

AT LEAST &SX ACRYLONITRILE

35 - 85% ACRYLONITRILE

I

/-

SOURCES OF BARRE I N NYLON _ _ -

a CHEMICAL END GROUPS

O R I E N T A T I O N AND C R Y S T A L L I N I T Y

X-SECTION, SURFACE ROUGHNESS

NON-UNIFORM TEXTURING

NON-UNIFORM KNITTING TENSION

6

FACTORS I N SELECTING DYES FOR NYLON

ECONOMY

SHADE ( BRIGHTNESS OR DULLNESS)

FASTNESS REQU I REMENTS

LEVEL DYEING PROPERTIES

BARRE CONTROL

E

LEVELING ACID DYES ON NYLON

REQUIRES ACETIC OR F O R M I C A C I D FOR D Y E I N G

EXHAUSTED W I T H A D D I T I O N A L F O R M I C A C I D

G O O D LEVELING PROPERTIES

GOOD B A R R E COVERAGE

POOR WETFASTNESS P R O P E R T I E S

LIGHTFASTNESS V A R I E S

-- a

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0

w

z

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wr

z

h

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I 0

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0

w

u,

=r

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O

uv)

c3 z

I

z

0

L

0

CI

l- e a

W

z

CI

J

WL

L

2-0

W

J

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7

NEUTRAL DYEING ACID DYES

D Y E D FROM NEUTRAL SOLUTION

COMPLETE EXHAUSTION WITH AMMONIUM SULFATE

* LEVEL WELL

GOOD BARR: COVERAGE

- GOOD L1 GHTFASTNESS

a WETFASTNESS PROPERTl ES

...

M I L L I N G ACID DYES ON NYLON

REQUIRES ACETIC ACID FOR DYEING

EXHAUSTED WITH ADDIT IONAL ACETIC OR FORMIC

DO NOT COVER BARRE

LIGHTFASTNESS VARIES

WETFASTNESS GENERALLY GOOD

--

a

NEUTRAL DYEING ACID DYES

DYED FROM NEUTRAL SOLUTION

COMPLETE EXHAUSTlON WITH AMMONIUM s SULFATE

LEVEL WELL

GOOD BARRE COVERAGE.

GOOD LIGHTFASTNESS

LIMITED WETFASTNESS PROPERTIES

--

-I-

--

A C I D METALIZED DYES ON NYLON

DULL SHADES

EXHAUSTED WITH F O R M I C A C I D

POOR LEVEL1 NG PROPERTIES

s

L l GHTFASTNESS GENERALLY GOOD

WETFASTNESS GENERALLY GOOD

e

/

I

I

- h q - 5 USE OF R E T A R D E R S TO I M P R O V E L E V E L I N G - hcr13\:L5

Compounds which

low tempera ture combine -

w i th

They a r e r e l e a s e d a t h i g h

p lace .

Reduce. t h e r a t e o f

May be c r i t i c a l i n

dyeings -

dye ing

p a s t e l

e i t h e r

temp. and

b e l o w the

shades t o

dye or

dye ing

b o i l -

o b t a i n

f i b e r a t

takes

l e v e l

14

NEUTRAL METALIZED DYES ON NYLON

DULL SHADES

DYED NEUTRAL OR SLIGHTLY ALKALINE

FAST STRIKE

:POOR' LEVELING '

L I GHTFASTNESS GOOD

NETFASTNESS G O O D .

CHROME DYES ON NYLON .

FOR EXCELLENT WETFASTNESS I N HEAVY SHADES

APPLY SAME AS A C I D DYES

AFTER - CYROME

TREAT DYED GOODS WITH FORMIC ACID SOD1 UM DICHROMATE SOD - I UM TH I OSULFATE

CHROME COMPLEXES WITH DYE MOLECULES

--

16

I

--

RETARDING SYSTE S FOR NYLuN I

AN I ON I C SURFACTANT

CATIONIC/NONIONIC SURFACTANT

SALTS

DYEING NYLON AT ELEVATED TEMPERATURES

FOR SELECTED DYES DYEING AT 235 - 250 F IMPROVES

1, SHADE BUILDUP

2 , PENETRATION

3 , LEVELING

4, BARR:

5 FASTNESS PROPERTIES

- 6, FAULTY DYEINGS MADE AT THE BOIL

18

DISPERSE DYES ON NYLON

APPLY SAME AS ON ACETATE

DO NOT BUILD AS GOOD AS ON ACETATE

LEVEL WELL

FASTNESS PROPERT I ES ARE POOR

. .

17

H2N - NYLON - COOH

+ 1, ;,w, - . '. I p HA (ACID)

J- + H ~ N - NYLON - COOH

+ NA+ DYE-

D Y E - H ~ N - NYLON - COOH + NAA

4

DYES F O R NYLON

ACID DYES

ACID METALIZED DYES

NEUTRAL METALIZED DYES

CHROME DYES

DISPERSE DYES

--

e

I- , - i c !$

BASIC DYE PROPERTI~S

t - I o n i c Dyes D n e t p o s i t i v e charge

- A S a c lass - h i g h c o l o r v a l u e - among t h e b r i g h t e s t dyes a v a i l a b l e - -

- Almost u n l i m i t e d shade r a n g e

- Many h a v e f l u o r e s e n c e p r o p e r t i e s

- L i g h t f a s t n e s s on ac ry l i c s v a r i e s f r o m poor t o g o o d . On o t h e r f ibers i t c a n be very p o o r .

- W a s h f a s t n e s s i s g e n e r a l l y g o o d

- C h l o r i n e f a s t n e s s is p o o r

- H i g h s t r i k e r a t e

- P o o r l e v e l i n g

B A S I C D Y E S ON A C R Y L I C S

DYEING MECHANISM

so 3 - ACRYLIC _ - SO? a +

e

D Y E

STRONG IONIC BONDS . L.

.*-

DYEING OF ACRYLICS WITH B A S I C S

Dye i s mixed w i t h :

.25% EDTA

10.0 % S o d i u m s u l f a t e ( g l a u b e r s s a l t )

. 5 % Nonionic s u r f a c t a n t

1 .5 - 3.0 % Reta rde r

0.5 - 1.0 % Acet ic a c i d ( 5 6 % )

Raise dyebath 8 3" F / m i n t o 180" F , then s l o w l y

1" F / m i n or l e s s t o 212" F. Run for 1 . 0 - 1 . 5 h r .

Make any adds a f t e r coo l ing t o 170" F , then r a i s e

slowly back t o 212" F , run 20 m i n .

- Note. Always c o o l ba th slowly t o avoid c rack and c r e a s e marks i n t h e f a b r i c .

--

I "

COMBINATION SHADES

CATIONIC DYES EXHAUST AT VARIOUS RATES

I N COMBINATIONS, ONE DYE MAY EXHAUST F I R S T AND BLOCK OTHER DYES.

RESULTS :

SHADE DOES NOT BUILD ON TONE

MAY NOT OBTAIN DESIRED SHADE

K - Values 1 - Fas tes t Exhaust ion ,

5 - Slowest Exhaust ion

FOR COMBINATION SHADES, USE DYES W I T H I N ONE U N I T OF

EACH OTHER.

. \

23

--

DISPERSE DYES ON ACRYLICS -

FOR LIGHT AND MEDIUM SHADES ONLY

LEVEL WELL

DYE AT BOIL FOR 14 - 2 HOURS

SELECTED DISPERSE DYES HAVE GOOD FASTNESS PROPERTIES

LL 0

(3 z

w

- zi tL 0 W I- a a UD 0 W c) 2 W 0 z W e w 0 w 3 b- W e z W t- a a a ul, W > 0 0 cn a a

I

GENERAL PROPERTIES OF MODACRYLICS

SHRINK SEVERLY ABOVE A CRITICAL TEMPERATURE

DELUSTER IN DYEBATH

MUST COOL DYEBATH SLOWLY

SENSITIVE TO DRY HEAT

DYEABLE WITH SELECTIVE CATIONIC DYES

DYEABLE WITH SELECTIVE DISPERSE DYES

c

ACID DYEABLE ACRYLICS

DYEABLE WITH ACID, CATIONIC, AND DISPERSE DYES

NOT WIDELY USED

DYED AT BOIL AT VERY LOW PH

SELECTED ACID DYES HAVE GOOD FASTNESS PROPERTIES

--

PROPERTIES OF POLYESTER

MORE HYDROPHOB I c THAN TR I ACETE

DYED WITH DISPERSE DYES

CAN BE DYED WITH AZOIC DYES

* REQUIRE CARRIER OR PRESSURE TO DYE

CATIONIC DYEABLE TYPE

CAN BE HEAT SET

DYES FOR POLYESTER

DISPERSE

PROPERTIES OF DISPERSE DYES

INSOLUBLE I N WATER

WATER D I SPERS IBLE

N O N I O N I C

DYES ALL SYNTHETIC FIBERS

SUBLIME WHEN HEATED

STAINS CELLULOSE FIBERS

STAINS PROTEIN FIBERS

a --

DYEING SYSTEMS FOR POLYESTER

NORMAL AQUEOUS SYSTEM

\ PRESSURE SYSTEM 0 L

THERMOSOL SYST

I

I ' "'* HIGH ENERGY I

DYEING MECHANISM

PARTITIONING OF A SOLID BETWEEN TWO IMMISCIBLE SOLVENTS

DYE FORMS A SOLID SOLUTION IN THE FIBER

33

PROPERTIES OF AN IDEAL CARRIER

1. HIGH EFFICIENCY, NEN WHEN APPLIED AT MINIMUM CONCENTRATION, AND INDEPENDENT Of THE CONSTITUTION OF THE DISPERSE DYE.

2. RAPID EMULSIFIABILITY AND GOOD STABILITY Of THE CARRIER EMULSION UNDER DYEING CONDITIONS.

3. LOW VOLATILITY IN STEAM.

4. NO OBJECTIONABLE ODOR.

5. MINIMUM SWELLING OF THE FIBER, AND MINIMUM INFLUENCE ON THE F IBER SHRINKAGE .

6. NO PROMOTION OF THE UPTAKE OF DISPERSE DYES BY OTHER FIBERS IN BLENDS.

READILY REMOVED FROM THE FIBROUS MATERIAL. 7.

8. NO INFLUENCE ON THE FASTNESS TO LIGHT AND HEAT -SETTING OF THE DYED SHADES. --

9. LOW TOXICITY.

FACTORS I N SELECTING DYES FOR POLYESTER

ECONOMY

FASTNESS REQUIREMENTS

LEVEL DYEING OR BARRE CONTROL

STABILITY AT H I G H TEMPERATURE

DISPERSION (ESPECIALLY PACKAGE DYEING)

- -

TRIMERS

CONGLOMERATE ON AND CLOG MACHINES

RESTRICT FLOGI I N PACKAGE DYEING

GIVE DYEING DULL OR SPOm APPEARANCE

TO ELIMINATE TRIMER PROBLEMS

1- USE CARRIER THAT CONTROLS TRIMER RELEASE

2. DROP BATH WHILE HOT

3. AFTER SCOUR GOODS GIITH CAUSTIC AND HYDRO

I

FACTORS IN SELECTING CARRIERS FOR POLYESTER .

ECONOMY

USE IN ATMOSPHERIC OR HIGH TWERATURE DYEING

LEVELLING AND BAR& COVERAGE

EFFECT ON LIGHT FASTNESS

RESISTANCE TO SPOTTING

EASE W REHOVAL

TOXICITY

ODOR DURING AND AFTF3 DYEING

CONTROL OF STAIN GlHEN DYEING BLENDS

COMPATIBILITY AND FOAMING IN JET DYEING

TRIMER CONTROL

'

-.

C A T I O N I C DYEABLE POLYESTER

POLYESTER WITH SULPHONIC A C I D GROUP

DYED WITH C A T I O N I C OR D ISPERSE DYES

REQUIWES CARRIER FOR DYEING

P.EQUIRES G L R U B E V S SALT I F DYED UPJEEP. PRESSURE

LIGHTFASTNESS OF MOST C A T I O N I C DYES NOT GOOD

OTHER FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF C A T I O N I C DYES ARE GOOD

USUALLY I N BLENDS

RESERVE

CROSS - DYEING

SUBLIMATION OF DISPERSE DYES

PROCESS OF DYE GOING FROM SOLID TO VAPOR WHEN HEATED

SUBLIMATION DECREASES WITH AN INCREASE IN SIZE OF DYE MOLECULE

LEVEL DYEING PROPERTIES DECREASE WITH AN INCREASE IN SIZE OF DYE MOLECULE

39

u - ' DYEING ACETATE WITH DISPERSE DYES

WET OUT GOODS

ADD SURFACTANT OR DISPERSING AGENT AT 100 - 120F

ADD DYE IN PORTIONS OVER 10 - 15 MINUTES

RAISE BATH SLOWLY TO 160 - 185 F ( 212' F)

DYE 30 - 60 MINUTES

RINSE AT 100 - 120 F

PROPERTIES OF ACETATE

HYDROPHOB I C

WILL NOT DYE WITH WATER SOLUBLE DYES

WILL SAPONIFY I N CAUSTIC SOLUTION

MAY DELUSTER

USUALLY DYED WITH LOW ENERGY DISPERSE DYES

CAN EE DYED WITH AZOIC DYES

41

PROPERTIES OF TRIACETATE

MORE HYDROPHOB I C THAN ACETATE

WILL NOT SAPONIFY EASILY

WILL NOT DELUSTER IN BOILING WATER

USUALLY DYED WITH DISPERSE DYES

LIGHT AND MEDIUFJ: SHADES DYES

3 - 6 HOURS AT BOIL

HEAVY SHADES DYES 3 - 6 HOURS AT BOIL WITH CARRIER (TRIPROPYLPHOSPHATE TYPE)

CAN BE DYED UNDER PRESSURE AT 265 F

CAN BE HEAT SET (10 - 15 SEC AT 425 - 450 F)

FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF DYES GENERALLY BETTER THAN ON

ACETATE

FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF DISPERSE DYES ON ACETATE (GENERAL)

LIGHTFASTNESS - GOOD

WASHFASTNESS - FAIR

CROCKFASTNESS - GOOD

PERSPIRATION -- FAIR

GAS FADING

OZONE AND OXIDES OF NITROGEN (GAS FUMES) 1 CAUSE SOME DYES (ESPECIALLY BLUES) TO FADE, REDUCED BY TREATING WITH GAS FADING INHIBITOR BEFORE OR DURING DYEING,

DY ESTUF? PROPERTIES

Wash f a s t nes s L i g h t f a s tnes s

Dyes I

Crock f a s t n e s s Fas tness Ease of

Reactive IGpensiIe Fairly Average- Hard 1

1 E t Application Acid Average Average

S u l f u r I Cheap I Fa i r ly Hard 1

I I 1 I

Basic

D i rect

Disperse

Average- Averagg Fa i r ly Hard

Cheap Easy

Average Fa i r ly Hard

'aphtho' IAveragd

Poor-Good

Hard

r a i r-Good Wet -Poor Poor-Good Dry-Good

Good

Good

Good Fai r-Good Fa i r-Good

Good Fair-Good Fai r-Good

Vat Average+

Fair-Good I

Fai r ly Hard

I r

Good

Good - Excel 1 ent

I Good I * Good

Good Good - Excel 1 ent

1 I I

I Poor-Good I Poor-Good 1 Fair-Good I Fair-Good .

I I I I I I

G-E I . Good I F a i r-Good 1 Fair-Goo ( if soaped) I I I I I I

Good I Fair-Good I Good 1 Good Good

DYES ON FIBER

Type of Fiber Dyes tuf fs

Natural X X X Cotton

Acid Ba*c Direct Disperse Naphthol Reac t ive S u l f u r

X

. Wool X

X X

X

Syn the t i c Rayon

Acetate X

. x * X

Pol y e s t e r * X

Nylon X

Acryl i c X X

X

X

Vat

X

X '

-

DY ESTUFP PROPERTIES

Lightfastness

Good

Poor-Good

Dyes I

Crockfastness

Good

Fai r-Good

Ease of I

Disperse

Nap h t h o 1

Average

Average

P r o p e r t i e s

Fa i r ly Hard Good

Hard Good

1 zt Application I Washfastness Acid Average Average Fai r-Good

SUI fur I Cheap I Fa i r ly Hard 1 Good ~

I I I I I

1 I I 1

t Average- Fa i r ly Hard Poor-Good Bas i c

I I I I

I Poor-Good

Fai r ly Hard Vat Good -

Excellent

I I I I

Expens e Fa i r ly Har Reactive I .I Average-

I Wet-Poor

Dry -Good f a i r-Good

Good I Fair-Good Good

Good Fai r-Good

Fa i r-Good 1 Good Good Good - Excel 1 ent

Perspi r a t i o n Fastness

- Good

Fair-Good .

Poor-Good ~~~~

F a i r-Good

Fa i r -Good

Fai r-Goo

AC

I