Dress Shirt Fabrics, Shirting Fabrics - Proper Cloth Reference

8/10/2019 Dress Shirt Fabrics, Shirting Fabrics - Proper Cloth Reference

1/15

REFERENCE ( HTTP: //PROPERCLOTH.COM/REFERENCE/)

/ DRESS SH IRT FABRICS (HTT P://PROPERCLOTH.COM/REFERENCE/CATEGORY/SHIRT-FAB RICS/)

/ DRESS SHIRT FAB RICS OVERVIEW (H TTP://PROPERCLOTH.COM/REFERENCE/DRESS-S HIRT-FABRICS/)

Dress Shirt Fabrics Overview

Here we provide the definitive overview of the different types of fabrics commonly used in dress

shirts. By understanding what the different weaves mean for a fabric you can be sure to find the

ideal dress shirt fabric for your needs.

Broadcloth

Broadcloth (http://propercloth.com/reference/broadcloth-fabric/)very similar to poplinis a tightly

woven fabric with a very simple over-under weave and slight sheen, which makes it very dressy.

Broadcloths are great for guys looking for as little texture as possible in their fabrics. They are

generally a thinner, lighter fabric. Particularly, white broadcloth fabrics

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/white/broadcloth) can be slightly transparent.

Learn more about broadcloth fabrics here (http://propercloth.com/reference/broadcloth/) or browse

our selection of broadcloth fabrics here (http://propercloth.com/fabrics/broadcloth/).
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/broadcloth/http://propercloth.com/fabrics/white/broadclothhttp://propercloth.com/fabrics/broadcloth/http://propercloth.com/reference/broadcloth/http://propercloth.com/fabrics/white/broadclothhttp://propercloth.com/reference/broadcloth-fabric/http://propercloth.com/reference/dress-shirt-fabrics/http://propercloth.com/reference/category/shirt-fabrics/http://propercloth.com/reference/


2/15

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/light-blue-120s-broadcloth-913.html)

Chambray

Chambray is a plain weave fabric. That means it has a similar construction to broadcloth, though

it is generally made with heavier yarns for a rugged, blue-collar workwear appeal. Generally therewill be white threads running in the weft/width direction such that the fabric has an inconsistent

color to it. This could be compared to an end-on-end, though chambray is generally much heavier

and more appropriate for casual wear than dress.

Broadcloth Dress Shirt Fabric
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/light-blue-120s-broadcloth-913.html


3/15

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/navy-chambray-1034.html)

Denim

We all know denim as the fabric of our jeans. But construction wise, denim is a twill fabric. A

sturdy, possibly coarser twill. For the most part though, when it comes to denim shirting, youremostly going to find much softer, lighter versions of the fabric then what your jeans are made of.

Denim shirting can come in many forms but generally will be a bit shiny and be a dramatically

different color on the inside than the outside.

Chambray Fabric
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/navy-chambray-1034.html


4/15

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/mercer-lightweight-denim-1081.html)

o y

Dobby (which is very similar to Jacquard, although technically different) can vary widely. Some

versions are quite similar to broadcloth in terms of thickness and weight, while others can be

thicker or woven to almost look like twill. Many dobby fabrics have stripes woven into them,

although some are solid colors. The solid colors tend to have a faint stripe or dotted patterns

woven in the same color as the base cloth.

Learn more about dobby fabrics here or browse our dobby fabrics here

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/dobby/).

Denim Shirt Fabric
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/dobby/http://propercloth.com/fabrics/mercer-lightweight-denim-1081.html


5/15

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/light-blue-dobby-stripe-907.html)

End-on-End

End-on-end broadcloths are a very popular type of dress shirt fabric with a distinct contrast

coloring. Woven with colored thread in the warp and white thread in the weft, it looks like a truesolid from a distance, but has more texture when seen from up close. Typically a lighter weight

fabric, its a great choice for those living in warmer climates.

Dobby Dress Shirt Fabric
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/light-blue-dobby-stripe-907.html


6/15

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/dark-blue-end-on-end-979.html)

Flannel

A fall/winter favorite. Flannels are warm, fuzzy fabrics that are most often brushed twill or brushed

melange fabrics. While theyre most regularly 100% cotton, they sometimes can come incotton/wool blends for added warmth. Usually made in thicker weaves, these are decidedly casual

fabrics that are great for cold weather.

End on End Dress Shirt Fabric
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/dark-blue-end-on-end-979.html


7/15

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/rust-dock-street-flannel-1099.html)

Melange

Melange fabrics are generally very thin and very smooth luxurious fabrics with a particular soft

finish. They are a special type of construction in which each yarn is a combination of fibers thatare dyed and not-dyed. These different colored cotton fibers are woven together for a feathered,

intentionally inconsistent, somewhat organic look.

Flannel Dress Shirt Fabric
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/rust-dock-street-flannel-1099.html


8/15

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/lazio-gray-check-1087.html)

Oxford Cloth

Oxford Cloth (http://propercloth.com/reference/oxford-cloth/) is very similar to pinpoint oxford,

except it uses a slightly heavier thread and looser weave. It has a slightly rougher texture but ismore durable than most fabrics. A symmetrical basket weave where one yarn may cross two yarns.

Originally developed for sports, so its the least dressy, and (in some circles) not considered

appropriate for office or formal wear. Oxford cloth has recently become quite popular used in

casual button down oxford shirts. It can be worn slightly wrinkled straight from the dryer.

Learn more about oxford cloth here (http://propercloth.com/reference/oxford-cloth/) or browse our

selection of oxford cloth here (http://propercloth.com/fabrics/oxford-cloth/).

Melange Dress Shirt Fabric
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/oxford-cloth/http://propercloth.com/reference/oxford-cloth/http://propercloth.com/reference/oxford-cloth/http://propercloth.com/fabrics/lazio-gray-check-1087.html


9/15

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/polo-blue-heavy-oxford-cloth-1111.html)

Pinpoint Oxford

Pinpoint (also referred to as pinpoint oxford) has the same weave as oxford cloth, although it uses

a finer yarn and tighter weave. It is more formal than oxford cloth, but less formal than broadcloth.Pinpoint fabrics are generally not transparent and are slightly heavier and thicker than broadcloths.

Because of their heavier construction, pinpoints are fairly durable fabrics. A great choice for

business shirts, but opt for a twill or broadcloth if youre looking for a formal shirt.

Learn more about pinpoint fabrics here (http://propercloth.com/reference/pinpoint-oxford-fabric/)

or browse our selection of pinpoint fabrics here (http://propercloth.com/fabrics/pinpoint/).

Oxford Cloth Shirt Fabric
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/pinpoint/http://propercloth.com/reference/pinpoint-oxford-fabric/http://propercloth.com/fabrics/polo-blue-heavy-oxford-cloth-1111.html


10/15

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/bowery-pink-wrinkle-resistant-pinpoint-627.html)

Pima, Sea Island, Egyptian Cotton

When you hear about Egyptian cotton you should know that this is not referring to the type of

weave, but to the type of cotton used to make the weave. For practical purposes, Pima cotton, SeaIsland and Egyptian cotton all refer to the same cotton plant: Gossypium Barbadense. This is a

more desirable cotton for its longer staples which allow it to be threaded into finer, stronger

threads. Making matters a bit more confusing, there are trademarks

(http://www.nationaltextile.org/library/pima.htm) filed around the names Sea Island and

Supima, so you can keep an eye out for certified sea island cotton vs. sea island quality. In

our experience, sea island cottons are usually higher thread counts around 120s+ and Egyptian

and Pima cottons can be found in more rugged 80s and 100s. Shown here is a light blue stripe

100s thread count broadcloth Egyptian cotton, and a light blue 120s thread count broadcloth sea-island cotton.

Pinpoint Dress Shirt Fabric
http://www.nationaltextile.org/library/pima.htmhttp://propercloth.com/fabrics/bowery-pink-wrinkle-resistant-pinpoint-627.html


11/15

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/light-blue-mini-gingham-924.html)

Poplin

Poplin is so similar to Broadcloth that we decided not to distinguish between the two in our fabric

descriptions. For all practical purposes you can equate the two. They are both a plain weavefabric that is going to be quite thin, smooth and flat. The amount of shine on a poplin can vary

from fabric to fabric. That said, technically Poplin is different than Broadcloth in that Poplins can

have different weight yarns in the warp and weft while broadcloths will have a a symmetrical

construction. For example, broadcloths could be 100/2100/2 (meaning 100s two-ply in the warp

and weft) while a poplin could be 100/260/1 (meaning 100s two-ply in the warp and 60s single-ply

in the weft).

Egyptian Cotton Dress Shirt Fabric
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/light-blue-mini-gingham-924.html


12/15

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/140s-wrinkle-resistant-light-blue-stripe-1109.html)

Royal Oxford

Royal Oxford (http://propercloth.com/reference/royal-oxford/) is what we call a pretty fabric.

Although the name is similar, it is not at all similar to pinpoint oxford or oxford cloth. It is a dressyfabric with a distinctive shine and texture. With a more prominent weave than broadcloth or

pinpoint, its ideal for those interested in a dress or formal shirt with visible texture.

Learn more about royal oxford fabrics here (http://propercloth.com/reference/royal-oxford/)

or browse our selection of royal oxford fabrics here (http://propercloth.com/fabrics/royal-oxford/).

Poplin Dress Shirt Fabric
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/royal-oxford/http://propercloth.com/reference/royal-oxford/http://propercloth.com/reference/royal-oxford/http://propercloth.com/fabrics/140s-wrinkle-resistant-light-blue-stripe-1109.html


13/15

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/white-100s-royal-oxford-1047.html)

Twill

Definitely one of our favorites, twill could be the perfect dress shirt fabric. Twill is easily

recognizable because it will show diagonal lines or texture. It is generally slightly shiny. Twill is anextremely tight weave, that can come in extremely high thread counts, some of which might be

mistaken for silk. Because of the diagonal texture twill is a bit softer than broadcloth and will

drape more easily. Twill wont give you the same crisp look that freshly pressed broadcloth can,

but its relatively easy to iron and resistant to wrinkles.

Learn more about twill fabrics here (http://propercloth.com/reference/twill-shirt-fabrics/) or browse

our selection of twill fabrics here (http://propercloth.com/fabrics/twill/).

Royal Oxford Dress Shirt Fabric
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/twill/http://propercloth.com/reference/twill-shirt-fabrics/http://propercloth.com/fabrics/white-100s-royal-oxford-1047.html


14/15

(http://propercloth.com/fabrics/thomas-mason-white-twill-732.html)

Thread Count

If everything else is the same (weave, ply, mill, and type of cotton), higher thread count means a

smoother, silkier, more expensive fabric. Thread count is often referred to with a number like 50s,80s, 100s, 120s, 140s 160s, etc up to 200s. These numbers refer to the yarn size. 140s means there

are 140 hanks (1 hank = 840 yards) of yarn in one pound.

While thread count (http://propercloth.com/reference/thread-count-ply/) can be an indicator of

quality, remember that ply, mill, and type of cotton will have just as much to do with how luxurious

the fabric is.

Two Ply vs Single Ply

Ply is how many yarns are twisted together to make a single thread. Shirting fabrics are most often

two-ply or single ply. Two-ply (http://propercloth.com/reference/thread-count-ply/) means that two

yarns are twisted together to make a single thread that is then woven into the fabric. (Note that this

Twill Dress Shirt Fabric
http://propercloth.com/reference/thread-count-ply/http://propercloth.com/reference/thread-count-ply/http://propercloth.com/fabrics/thomas-mason-white-twill-732.html


15/15

ABOUT US

SHOP

FREQUENTLY ASKED

CUSTOMER SERVICE

CONNECT

450 BROADWAY 2ND FLOOR // NEW YORK, NY 10013

(646) 964-4221

2014 | TERMS & CONDITIONS (HTTP://PROPERC LOTH.COM/TERMS) | SITEMAP

(HTTP://PROPERCLOTH.COM/SITEMAP)

is not at all like two-ply toilet paper!). Two-ply fabrics are generally superior to single-ply fabrics.

Related posts:

1. Pinpoint Oxford Fabric (http://propercloth.com/reference/pinpoint-oxford-fabric/)

2. Broadcloth Shirt Fabrics (http://propercloth.com/reference/broadcloth/)

3. Twill Shirt Fabrics (http://propercloth.com/reference/twill/)

4. Royal Oxford Fabric (http://propercloth.com/reference/royal-oxford/)
http://propercloth.com/reference/royal-oxford/http://propercloth.com/reference/twill/http://propercloth.com/reference/broadcloth/http://propercloth.com/reference/pinpoint-oxford-fabric/http://propercloth.com/sitemaphttp://propercloth.com/terms

Documents

Dress Shirt Fabrics, Shirting Fabrics - Proper Cloth Reference