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NVQ Level 3 Make-Up Style and Dress Long Hair Candidate Name: ___________________ Hair & Beauty Town Centre Campus (TCC) Eastwood Lane, Rotherham, S65 1EG Rother Valley Campus (RVC) Doe Quarry Lane, Dinnington, S25 2NF TEL 01709 362111 FAX 01709 373053 EMAIL [email protected] WEB www.rotherham.ac.uk

Dress long hair

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Page 1: Dress long hair

NVQ Level 3 Make-Up

Style and Dress Long Hair

Candidate Name ___________________

Hair amp Beauty

Town Centre Campus (TCC) Eastwood Lane Rotherham S65 1EG Rother Valley Campus (RVC) Doe Quarry Lane Dinnington S25 2NF

TEL 01709 362111 FAX 01709 373053 EMAIL inforotherhamacuk WEB wwwrotherhamacuk

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 2 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

INTRODUCTION This will enable you to develop your skills in creative styling and dressing long hair The basic techniques to practise are Knots Curls Twists Waves Plaits Blow drying Rolls Alternative setting Weaves Postiche Ornamentation You will be able to create shapes using a combination of basic techniques to achieve designer looks for your clients You will use conventional and non-conventional methods to achieve the style and consider the following looks to suit individual clients personalities These looks will suit clients of all ages for special occasions such as evenings out weddings proms balls and parties Looks are Classic Current Emerging

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 3 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

The physical effects on the hair when styling and using products Hair is made up of polypeptide chains that twist together to form hair as we know it These chains are held together by strong disulphide bonds Weak salt bonds help to hold the chains together and weak hydrogen bonds prevent the loops of polypeptide chain spirals from being stretched too far

When hair is in its normal state - it is not stretched by styling This state is known as the alpha-keratin state

When hair is stretched ndash as during setting or blow-drying it becomes beta-keratin

This is a physical change to the hair structure and therefore is a temporary change If hair is wet andor heated it is easier to stretch and it will stretch further than when it is dry This is because the hydrogen bonds and some salt bonds are broken by the moisture or the heat so the lsquospringsrsquo (the shape of the polypeptide chains) can be lengthened and the shape of the hair can be changed When hair is set or blow-dried it is stretched slightly by the rollers fingers or by a brush Because it is dried into this stretched position the broken hydrogen and salt bonds reform in a different pattern and will stay there until the hair becomes wet or affected by moisture or heat again

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 4 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Hair becomes wet again

By absorbing atmospheric moisture

By shampooing

Being in a steamy bathroom

Excessive scalp perspiration

Being caught in the rain

Being outside on a foggy day

Being in a humid climate The hydrogen and salt bonds will go back to their normal pattern Alpha-keratin and the style will be lost The use of styling and finishing products will help to protect the hair from these conditions and will assist in maintaining the style longer in the Beta keratin state Styling Products contain a resin which leaves a film or sheath on the hair once it dries This film helps to prevent atmospheric moisture from being absorbed by the hair thus preventing the hair from reverting back to its natural alpha state Finishing products contain plasticizers which help to maintain the style The physical effects of styling and finishing products on the hair are

Protection from humidity

Conditioning action on the hair

Holding the hair in place

Enabling the style to last longer Heating and Cooling

During the wet stretch and drying process of styling the hair becomes hot therefore it is important to allow the hair to cool down prior to dressing out This can be done in a number of ways

by hitting the cool button periodically during blow drying

letting set hair rest as it comes from under heat until it has cooled

allowing heated styling equipment such as heated rollers sufficient time to cool before removing them from the hair

not disturbing hair that has been tonged or crimped until it has cooled Note Cooling the hair allows the curl to harden in its new position for a longer lasting style Task To help clarify your understanding Discuss with a partner the physical effects of styling and product use on the hair structure and the importance of using products and cooling hair when styling

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 5 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

How the incorrect application of heat can affect the hair and scalp Hairdressers must be aware of the dangers involved in using and training staff to correctly use heated styling equipment If care is not taken there is danger of

Damaging the cuticle

Causing the hair to break

Burning the scalp making it tight and sensitive

Hair becomes scorched or singed

Hair becomes dry and dehydrated

Discolouring the hair ndash white or bleached hair becomes yellow Afro-Caribbean hair will become reddish Preparing the clients hair Before beginning to style a clients hair and using any equipment on the client you must have carried out a full consultation with the client to make sure you have the necessary equipment available to carry out an efficient service Effective preparation makes it easier and quicker to achieve the desired look You will need to discuss with the client

The agreed look required

Use of styling and finishing products

Use of dressing products

Ornamentation and added hair required The following factors affect the styling dressing and finish result of the hair by determining the size of styling tools and styling products used the temperature of tools and the direction of the styled hair the effect or finish you wish to achieve

Desired look or occasion for which the style is required

Hair Out

Hair growth patterns

Hair elasticity

Head face shape and features

Hair texture

Hair length

Hair density Task Discuss each one with a partner giving examples of how you think the factors contribute to the consultation process

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 6 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Preparing the hair for dressing up Some salons ask clients to shampoo their hair the night before a service to ensure the hair is clean and has had enough time to harden and become more manageable to dress up If this is not the case you will need to prepare the hair in the salon Freshly shampooed hair can be slippery and sometimes static making it difficult to work with so it is important that the appropriate preparations are made depending upon the techniques to be used

Technique Preparation

Rolls Twists Curls Setting or Blow-dry and tonging

Knots and Weaves Blow dry

Plaits Blow dry or wet hair

Styling Techniques

Styling techniques When Why

Blow drying

Wet Hair Soft smooth look

Pin curling amp Finger waves Wet Hair Create waves or specific direction

Heated styling equipment

Dry Hair A variety of looks

Setting

Wet hair For increased volume and a firm hold

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 7 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Setting by winding on and off base (E4) The diagrams show conventional setting methods points to roots Picture 1 Winding on base - gives root movement creating maximum volume Winding on base - dictates the direction the hair moves Picture 2 Winding off base - gives less root movement creating minimum volume Winding off base - gives maximum direction of hair movement Practice alternative setting methods from roots to points and use non-conventional items such as rickracks and bendys to achieve different looks

On base

Off base

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 8 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Tools and equipment Look at the range of tools and equipment available in your salon for styling finishing and dressing hair and state how they are used

Tools and equipment How to use

Brushes combs clips etc

Rollers conventional and velcro

Hairdryer amp attachments

Curling tongs

Spiral hot rod

Straightners

Crimpers amp wavers

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 9 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Products It is equally important that the correct products are chosen for the service All styling and dressing products should be use economically to minimize the wastage of products in the salon It is important to follow manufacturerrsquos instructions when using products in order to

To use products correctly

To get the best results

To be able to give the correct advice to clients You will need to have good knowledge of the products available in the salon to use when styling and dressing the clientrsquos hair Manufacturers may give different names to their products but they are all designed to achieve similar results on the hair It is personal preference as to which manufacturer your salon uses You will be familiar with these products and understand which ones will produce the best results on different hair types Research the products your salon uses

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 10 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

PRODUCTS Follow this chart and complete by identifying products you use in the salon state which are styling dressing and finishing products and include manufacturersrsquo instructions

Product Brand name MFI How to Use

Sprays

Silhouette

Fix finished style amp lengthens life of style Help protect from atmospheric moisture Spray fine mist 10-20cms from the hair Protect eyes do not inhale

Dressing cream

Oil

Wax

Gel

Lotion

Mousse

Activator

Moisturiser

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 11 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Securing long hair Long hair should be handled and controlled prior to and during the dressing process by brushing and detangling before and throughout the service to prevent damage to the hair and discomfort to the client Long hair may have to be secured for a range of styles at the end of a plait at the roots for a roll to secure knots curls and twists This can be done using a variety of techniques

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets Care must be taken not to damage the hair structure when using different securing materials and devices unsuitable securing may cause

bull Fragilitis crinium (split ends) bull Damaged cuticles bull Trichorrhexis nodosa (swollen broken hair shaft)

You must only secure long hair with covered bands or bands designed especially for this purpose Do not use elastic bands as they will damage and break the hair The start of many styles can be with the use of pony tails One method of securing this is

1 Knot a 24cm piece of covered elastic into a circle and attach a grip at each end 2 Gather the mesh of hair in one hand after smoothing it with a brush or comb and with the other hand push one of the grips flat to the Head into the middle of the pony tail 3 Ensure that the grip feels secure and then pull the elastic around the hair mesh by the second grip wrapping it over the top of the first grip until it will not go any further 4 Slide the grip half way out of the elastic and the push the second grip into the underneath of the mesh of hair and secure You may use this method of securing hair on any part of the head and as many times as is required It should not damage the hair because it does not pull the hair when removing the elastic You can see where this is used by Patrick Cameron in all of his books on long hair styles or on wwwpatrick-cameroncom This method of securing hair can also be used when adding a hair piece Follow the directions for securing then add a row of overlapping grips in a circle around the elastic Remove the elastic and spread the hair evenly this will provide a secure base to attach the hair piece to You are now ready to dress the hair and the hair piece

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 12 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

POSTICHE (Added hair) Added hair postiche also comes in the form of

Pin curls - small meshes which can be added - different colours straight or curly

Ringlets - larger meshes

Marteaux - flat folded pieces of weft - attached by either combs or loops - useful for adding waves

Switches - lengths of weft - twisted coiled plaited or spiral

Torsades - made from marteaux and switches - forms coils

Swathes - made from marteaux and switches - encircle the head

Chignons - rolls or knots - can be worn on the crown or nape

Wefts ndash a curtain of hair that can be gripped or sewn in You will need to carry out research into other types of added hair from text books web sites trade magazines trade shows and manufacturers See some examples of added hair below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 13 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ask

Dressing Long hair tools amp equipment

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 2: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 2 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

INTRODUCTION This will enable you to develop your skills in creative styling and dressing long hair The basic techniques to practise are Knots Curls Twists Waves Plaits Blow drying Rolls Alternative setting Weaves Postiche Ornamentation You will be able to create shapes using a combination of basic techniques to achieve designer looks for your clients You will use conventional and non-conventional methods to achieve the style and consider the following looks to suit individual clients personalities These looks will suit clients of all ages for special occasions such as evenings out weddings proms balls and parties Looks are Classic Current Emerging

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 3 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

The physical effects on the hair when styling and using products Hair is made up of polypeptide chains that twist together to form hair as we know it These chains are held together by strong disulphide bonds Weak salt bonds help to hold the chains together and weak hydrogen bonds prevent the loops of polypeptide chain spirals from being stretched too far

When hair is in its normal state - it is not stretched by styling This state is known as the alpha-keratin state

When hair is stretched ndash as during setting or blow-drying it becomes beta-keratin

This is a physical change to the hair structure and therefore is a temporary change If hair is wet andor heated it is easier to stretch and it will stretch further than when it is dry This is because the hydrogen bonds and some salt bonds are broken by the moisture or the heat so the lsquospringsrsquo (the shape of the polypeptide chains) can be lengthened and the shape of the hair can be changed When hair is set or blow-dried it is stretched slightly by the rollers fingers or by a brush Because it is dried into this stretched position the broken hydrogen and salt bonds reform in a different pattern and will stay there until the hair becomes wet or affected by moisture or heat again

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 4 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Hair becomes wet again

By absorbing atmospheric moisture

By shampooing

Being in a steamy bathroom

Excessive scalp perspiration

Being caught in the rain

Being outside on a foggy day

Being in a humid climate The hydrogen and salt bonds will go back to their normal pattern Alpha-keratin and the style will be lost The use of styling and finishing products will help to protect the hair from these conditions and will assist in maintaining the style longer in the Beta keratin state Styling Products contain a resin which leaves a film or sheath on the hair once it dries This film helps to prevent atmospheric moisture from being absorbed by the hair thus preventing the hair from reverting back to its natural alpha state Finishing products contain plasticizers which help to maintain the style The physical effects of styling and finishing products on the hair are

Protection from humidity

Conditioning action on the hair

Holding the hair in place

Enabling the style to last longer Heating and Cooling

During the wet stretch and drying process of styling the hair becomes hot therefore it is important to allow the hair to cool down prior to dressing out This can be done in a number of ways

by hitting the cool button periodically during blow drying

letting set hair rest as it comes from under heat until it has cooled

allowing heated styling equipment such as heated rollers sufficient time to cool before removing them from the hair

not disturbing hair that has been tonged or crimped until it has cooled Note Cooling the hair allows the curl to harden in its new position for a longer lasting style Task To help clarify your understanding Discuss with a partner the physical effects of styling and product use on the hair structure and the importance of using products and cooling hair when styling

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 5 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

How the incorrect application of heat can affect the hair and scalp Hairdressers must be aware of the dangers involved in using and training staff to correctly use heated styling equipment If care is not taken there is danger of

Damaging the cuticle

Causing the hair to break

Burning the scalp making it tight and sensitive

Hair becomes scorched or singed

Hair becomes dry and dehydrated

Discolouring the hair ndash white or bleached hair becomes yellow Afro-Caribbean hair will become reddish Preparing the clients hair Before beginning to style a clients hair and using any equipment on the client you must have carried out a full consultation with the client to make sure you have the necessary equipment available to carry out an efficient service Effective preparation makes it easier and quicker to achieve the desired look You will need to discuss with the client

The agreed look required

Use of styling and finishing products

Use of dressing products

Ornamentation and added hair required The following factors affect the styling dressing and finish result of the hair by determining the size of styling tools and styling products used the temperature of tools and the direction of the styled hair the effect or finish you wish to achieve

Desired look or occasion for which the style is required

Hair Out

Hair growth patterns

Hair elasticity

Head face shape and features

Hair texture

Hair length

Hair density Task Discuss each one with a partner giving examples of how you think the factors contribute to the consultation process

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 6 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Preparing the hair for dressing up Some salons ask clients to shampoo their hair the night before a service to ensure the hair is clean and has had enough time to harden and become more manageable to dress up If this is not the case you will need to prepare the hair in the salon Freshly shampooed hair can be slippery and sometimes static making it difficult to work with so it is important that the appropriate preparations are made depending upon the techniques to be used

Technique Preparation

Rolls Twists Curls Setting or Blow-dry and tonging

Knots and Weaves Blow dry

Plaits Blow dry or wet hair

Styling Techniques

Styling techniques When Why

Blow drying

Wet Hair Soft smooth look

Pin curling amp Finger waves Wet Hair Create waves or specific direction

Heated styling equipment

Dry Hair A variety of looks

Setting

Wet hair For increased volume and a firm hold

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 7 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Setting by winding on and off base (E4) The diagrams show conventional setting methods points to roots Picture 1 Winding on base - gives root movement creating maximum volume Winding on base - dictates the direction the hair moves Picture 2 Winding off base - gives less root movement creating minimum volume Winding off base - gives maximum direction of hair movement Practice alternative setting methods from roots to points and use non-conventional items such as rickracks and bendys to achieve different looks

On base

Off base

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 8 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Tools and equipment Look at the range of tools and equipment available in your salon for styling finishing and dressing hair and state how they are used

Tools and equipment How to use

Brushes combs clips etc

Rollers conventional and velcro

Hairdryer amp attachments

Curling tongs

Spiral hot rod

Straightners

Crimpers amp wavers

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 9 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Products It is equally important that the correct products are chosen for the service All styling and dressing products should be use economically to minimize the wastage of products in the salon It is important to follow manufacturerrsquos instructions when using products in order to

To use products correctly

To get the best results

To be able to give the correct advice to clients You will need to have good knowledge of the products available in the salon to use when styling and dressing the clientrsquos hair Manufacturers may give different names to their products but they are all designed to achieve similar results on the hair It is personal preference as to which manufacturer your salon uses You will be familiar with these products and understand which ones will produce the best results on different hair types Research the products your salon uses

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 10 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

PRODUCTS Follow this chart and complete by identifying products you use in the salon state which are styling dressing and finishing products and include manufacturersrsquo instructions

Product Brand name MFI How to Use

Sprays

Silhouette

Fix finished style amp lengthens life of style Help protect from atmospheric moisture Spray fine mist 10-20cms from the hair Protect eyes do not inhale

Dressing cream

Oil

Wax

Gel

Lotion

Mousse

Activator

Moisturiser

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 11 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Securing long hair Long hair should be handled and controlled prior to and during the dressing process by brushing and detangling before and throughout the service to prevent damage to the hair and discomfort to the client Long hair may have to be secured for a range of styles at the end of a plait at the roots for a roll to secure knots curls and twists This can be done using a variety of techniques

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets Care must be taken not to damage the hair structure when using different securing materials and devices unsuitable securing may cause

bull Fragilitis crinium (split ends) bull Damaged cuticles bull Trichorrhexis nodosa (swollen broken hair shaft)

You must only secure long hair with covered bands or bands designed especially for this purpose Do not use elastic bands as they will damage and break the hair The start of many styles can be with the use of pony tails One method of securing this is

1 Knot a 24cm piece of covered elastic into a circle and attach a grip at each end 2 Gather the mesh of hair in one hand after smoothing it with a brush or comb and with the other hand push one of the grips flat to the Head into the middle of the pony tail 3 Ensure that the grip feels secure and then pull the elastic around the hair mesh by the second grip wrapping it over the top of the first grip until it will not go any further 4 Slide the grip half way out of the elastic and the push the second grip into the underneath of the mesh of hair and secure You may use this method of securing hair on any part of the head and as many times as is required It should not damage the hair because it does not pull the hair when removing the elastic You can see where this is used by Patrick Cameron in all of his books on long hair styles or on wwwpatrick-cameroncom This method of securing hair can also be used when adding a hair piece Follow the directions for securing then add a row of overlapping grips in a circle around the elastic Remove the elastic and spread the hair evenly this will provide a secure base to attach the hair piece to You are now ready to dress the hair and the hair piece

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 12 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

POSTICHE (Added hair) Added hair postiche also comes in the form of

Pin curls - small meshes which can be added - different colours straight or curly

Ringlets - larger meshes

Marteaux - flat folded pieces of weft - attached by either combs or loops - useful for adding waves

Switches - lengths of weft - twisted coiled plaited or spiral

Torsades - made from marteaux and switches - forms coils

Swathes - made from marteaux and switches - encircle the head

Chignons - rolls or knots - can be worn on the crown or nape

Wefts ndash a curtain of hair that can be gripped or sewn in You will need to carry out research into other types of added hair from text books web sites trade magazines trade shows and manufacturers See some examples of added hair below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 13 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ask

Dressing Long hair tools amp equipment

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 3: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 3 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

The physical effects on the hair when styling and using products Hair is made up of polypeptide chains that twist together to form hair as we know it These chains are held together by strong disulphide bonds Weak salt bonds help to hold the chains together and weak hydrogen bonds prevent the loops of polypeptide chain spirals from being stretched too far

When hair is in its normal state - it is not stretched by styling This state is known as the alpha-keratin state

When hair is stretched ndash as during setting or blow-drying it becomes beta-keratin

This is a physical change to the hair structure and therefore is a temporary change If hair is wet andor heated it is easier to stretch and it will stretch further than when it is dry This is because the hydrogen bonds and some salt bonds are broken by the moisture or the heat so the lsquospringsrsquo (the shape of the polypeptide chains) can be lengthened and the shape of the hair can be changed When hair is set or blow-dried it is stretched slightly by the rollers fingers or by a brush Because it is dried into this stretched position the broken hydrogen and salt bonds reform in a different pattern and will stay there until the hair becomes wet or affected by moisture or heat again

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 4 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Hair becomes wet again

By absorbing atmospheric moisture

By shampooing

Being in a steamy bathroom

Excessive scalp perspiration

Being caught in the rain

Being outside on a foggy day

Being in a humid climate The hydrogen and salt bonds will go back to their normal pattern Alpha-keratin and the style will be lost The use of styling and finishing products will help to protect the hair from these conditions and will assist in maintaining the style longer in the Beta keratin state Styling Products contain a resin which leaves a film or sheath on the hair once it dries This film helps to prevent atmospheric moisture from being absorbed by the hair thus preventing the hair from reverting back to its natural alpha state Finishing products contain plasticizers which help to maintain the style The physical effects of styling and finishing products on the hair are

Protection from humidity

Conditioning action on the hair

Holding the hair in place

Enabling the style to last longer Heating and Cooling

During the wet stretch and drying process of styling the hair becomes hot therefore it is important to allow the hair to cool down prior to dressing out This can be done in a number of ways

by hitting the cool button periodically during blow drying

letting set hair rest as it comes from under heat until it has cooled

allowing heated styling equipment such as heated rollers sufficient time to cool before removing them from the hair

not disturbing hair that has been tonged or crimped until it has cooled Note Cooling the hair allows the curl to harden in its new position for a longer lasting style Task To help clarify your understanding Discuss with a partner the physical effects of styling and product use on the hair structure and the importance of using products and cooling hair when styling

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 5 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

How the incorrect application of heat can affect the hair and scalp Hairdressers must be aware of the dangers involved in using and training staff to correctly use heated styling equipment If care is not taken there is danger of

Damaging the cuticle

Causing the hair to break

Burning the scalp making it tight and sensitive

Hair becomes scorched or singed

Hair becomes dry and dehydrated

Discolouring the hair ndash white or bleached hair becomes yellow Afro-Caribbean hair will become reddish Preparing the clients hair Before beginning to style a clients hair and using any equipment on the client you must have carried out a full consultation with the client to make sure you have the necessary equipment available to carry out an efficient service Effective preparation makes it easier and quicker to achieve the desired look You will need to discuss with the client

The agreed look required

Use of styling and finishing products

Use of dressing products

Ornamentation and added hair required The following factors affect the styling dressing and finish result of the hair by determining the size of styling tools and styling products used the temperature of tools and the direction of the styled hair the effect or finish you wish to achieve

Desired look or occasion for which the style is required

Hair Out

Hair growth patterns

Hair elasticity

Head face shape and features

Hair texture

Hair length

Hair density Task Discuss each one with a partner giving examples of how you think the factors contribute to the consultation process

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 6 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Preparing the hair for dressing up Some salons ask clients to shampoo their hair the night before a service to ensure the hair is clean and has had enough time to harden and become more manageable to dress up If this is not the case you will need to prepare the hair in the salon Freshly shampooed hair can be slippery and sometimes static making it difficult to work with so it is important that the appropriate preparations are made depending upon the techniques to be used

Technique Preparation

Rolls Twists Curls Setting or Blow-dry and tonging

Knots and Weaves Blow dry

Plaits Blow dry or wet hair

Styling Techniques

Styling techniques When Why

Blow drying

Wet Hair Soft smooth look

Pin curling amp Finger waves Wet Hair Create waves or specific direction

Heated styling equipment

Dry Hair A variety of looks

Setting

Wet hair For increased volume and a firm hold

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 7 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Setting by winding on and off base (E4) The diagrams show conventional setting methods points to roots Picture 1 Winding on base - gives root movement creating maximum volume Winding on base - dictates the direction the hair moves Picture 2 Winding off base - gives less root movement creating minimum volume Winding off base - gives maximum direction of hair movement Practice alternative setting methods from roots to points and use non-conventional items such as rickracks and bendys to achieve different looks

On base

Off base

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 8 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Tools and equipment Look at the range of tools and equipment available in your salon for styling finishing and dressing hair and state how they are used

Tools and equipment How to use

Brushes combs clips etc

Rollers conventional and velcro

Hairdryer amp attachments

Curling tongs

Spiral hot rod

Straightners

Crimpers amp wavers

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 9 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Products It is equally important that the correct products are chosen for the service All styling and dressing products should be use economically to minimize the wastage of products in the salon It is important to follow manufacturerrsquos instructions when using products in order to

To use products correctly

To get the best results

To be able to give the correct advice to clients You will need to have good knowledge of the products available in the salon to use when styling and dressing the clientrsquos hair Manufacturers may give different names to their products but they are all designed to achieve similar results on the hair It is personal preference as to which manufacturer your salon uses You will be familiar with these products and understand which ones will produce the best results on different hair types Research the products your salon uses

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 10 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

PRODUCTS Follow this chart and complete by identifying products you use in the salon state which are styling dressing and finishing products and include manufacturersrsquo instructions

Product Brand name MFI How to Use

Sprays

Silhouette

Fix finished style amp lengthens life of style Help protect from atmospheric moisture Spray fine mist 10-20cms from the hair Protect eyes do not inhale

Dressing cream

Oil

Wax

Gel

Lotion

Mousse

Activator

Moisturiser

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 11 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Securing long hair Long hair should be handled and controlled prior to and during the dressing process by brushing and detangling before and throughout the service to prevent damage to the hair and discomfort to the client Long hair may have to be secured for a range of styles at the end of a plait at the roots for a roll to secure knots curls and twists This can be done using a variety of techniques

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets Care must be taken not to damage the hair structure when using different securing materials and devices unsuitable securing may cause

bull Fragilitis crinium (split ends) bull Damaged cuticles bull Trichorrhexis nodosa (swollen broken hair shaft)

You must only secure long hair with covered bands or bands designed especially for this purpose Do not use elastic bands as they will damage and break the hair The start of many styles can be with the use of pony tails One method of securing this is

1 Knot a 24cm piece of covered elastic into a circle and attach a grip at each end 2 Gather the mesh of hair in one hand after smoothing it with a brush or comb and with the other hand push one of the grips flat to the Head into the middle of the pony tail 3 Ensure that the grip feels secure and then pull the elastic around the hair mesh by the second grip wrapping it over the top of the first grip until it will not go any further 4 Slide the grip half way out of the elastic and the push the second grip into the underneath of the mesh of hair and secure You may use this method of securing hair on any part of the head and as many times as is required It should not damage the hair because it does not pull the hair when removing the elastic You can see where this is used by Patrick Cameron in all of his books on long hair styles or on wwwpatrick-cameroncom This method of securing hair can also be used when adding a hair piece Follow the directions for securing then add a row of overlapping grips in a circle around the elastic Remove the elastic and spread the hair evenly this will provide a secure base to attach the hair piece to You are now ready to dress the hair and the hair piece

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 12 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

POSTICHE (Added hair) Added hair postiche also comes in the form of

Pin curls - small meshes which can be added - different colours straight or curly

Ringlets - larger meshes

Marteaux - flat folded pieces of weft - attached by either combs or loops - useful for adding waves

Switches - lengths of weft - twisted coiled plaited or spiral

Torsades - made from marteaux and switches - forms coils

Swathes - made from marteaux and switches - encircle the head

Chignons - rolls or knots - can be worn on the crown or nape

Wefts ndash a curtain of hair that can be gripped or sewn in You will need to carry out research into other types of added hair from text books web sites trade magazines trade shows and manufacturers See some examples of added hair below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 13 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ask

Dressing Long hair tools amp equipment

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 4: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 4 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Hair becomes wet again

By absorbing atmospheric moisture

By shampooing

Being in a steamy bathroom

Excessive scalp perspiration

Being caught in the rain

Being outside on a foggy day

Being in a humid climate The hydrogen and salt bonds will go back to their normal pattern Alpha-keratin and the style will be lost The use of styling and finishing products will help to protect the hair from these conditions and will assist in maintaining the style longer in the Beta keratin state Styling Products contain a resin which leaves a film or sheath on the hair once it dries This film helps to prevent atmospheric moisture from being absorbed by the hair thus preventing the hair from reverting back to its natural alpha state Finishing products contain plasticizers which help to maintain the style The physical effects of styling and finishing products on the hair are

Protection from humidity

Conditioning action on the hair

Holding the hair in place

Enabling the style to last longer Heating and Cooling

During the wet stretch and drying process of styling the hair becomes hot therefore it is important to allow the hair to cool down prior to dressing out This can be done in a number of ways

by hitting the cool button periodically during blow drying

letting set hair rest as it comes from under heat until it has cooled

allowing heated styling equipment such as heated rollers sufficient time to cool before removing them from the hair

not disturbing hair that has been tonged or crimped until it has cooled Note Cooling the hair allows the curl to harden in its new position for a longer lasting style Task To help clarify your understanding Discuss with a partner the physical effects of styling and product use on the hair structure and the importance of using products and cooling hair when styling

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 5 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

How the incorrect application of heat can affect the hair and scalp Hairdressers must be aware of the dangers involved in using and training staff to correctly use heated styling equipment If care is not taken there is danger of

Damaging the cuticle

Causing the hair to break

Burning the scalp making it tight and sensitive

Hair becomes scorched or singed

Hair becomes dry and dehydrated

Discolouring the hair ndash white or bleached hair becomes yellow Afro-Caribbean hair will become reddish Preparing the clients hair Before beginning to style a clients hair and using any equipment on the client you must have carried out a full consultation with the client to make sure you have the necessary equipment available to carry out an efficient service Effective preparation makes it easier and quicker to achieve the desired look You will need to discuss with the client

The agreed look required

Use of styling and finishing products

Use of dressing products

Ornamentation and added hair required The following factors affect the styling dressing and finish result of the hair by determining the size of styling tools and styling products used the temperature of tools and the direction of the styled hair the effect or finish you wish to achieve

Desired look or occasion for which the style is required

Hair Out

Hair growth patterns

Hair elasticity

Head face shape and features

Hair texture

Hair length

Hair density Task Discuss each one with a partner giving examples of how you think the factors contribute to the consultation process

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 6 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Preparing the hair for dressing up Some salons ask clients to shampoo their hair the night before a service to ensure the hair is clean and has had enough time to harden and become more manageable to dress up If this is not the case you will need to prepare the hair in the salon Freshly shampooed hair can be slippery and sometimes static making it difficult to work with so it is important that the appropriate preparations are made depending upon the techniques to be used

Technique Preparation

Rolls Twists Curls Setting or Blow-dry and tonging

Knots and Weaves Blow dry

Plaits Blow dry or wet hair

Styling Techniques

Styling techniques When Why

Blow drying

Wet Hair Soft smooth look

Pin curling amp Finger waves Wet Hair Create waves or specific direction

Heated styling equipment

Dry Hair A variety of looks

Setting

Wet hair For increased volume and a firm hold

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 7 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Setting by winding on and off base (E4) The diagrams show conventional setting methods points to roots Picture 1 Winding on base - gives root movement creating maximum volume Winding on base - dictates the direction the hair moves Picture 2 Winding off base - gives less root movement creating minimum volume Winding off base - gives maximum direction of hair movement Practice alternative setting methods from roots to points and use non-conventional items such as rickracks and bendys to achieve different looks

On base

Off base

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 8 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Tools and equipment Look at the range of tools and equipment available in your salon for styling finishing and dressing hair and state how they are used

Tools and equipment How to use

Brushes combs clips etc

Rollers conventional and velcro

Hairdryer amp attachments

Curling tongs

Spiral hot rod

Straightners

Crimpers amp wavers

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 9 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Products It is equally important that the correct products are chosen for the service All styling and dressing products should be use economically to minimize the wastage of products in the salon It is important to follow manufacturerrsquos instructions when using products in order to

To use products correctly

To get the best results

To be able to give the correct advice to clients You will need to have good knowledge of the products available in the salon to use when styling and dressing the clientrsquos hair Manufacturers may give different names to their products but they are all designed to achieve similar results on the hair It is personal preference as to which manufacturer your salon uses You will be familiar with these products and understand which ones will produce the best results on different hair types Research the products your salon uses

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 10 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

PRODUCTS Follow this chart and complete by identifying products you use in the salon state which are styling dressing and finishing products and include manufacturersrsquo instructions

Product Brand name MFI How to Use

Sprays

Silhouette

Fix finished style amp lengthens life of style Help protect from atmospheric moisture Spray fine mist 10-20cms from the hair Protect eyes do not inhale

Dressing cream

Oil

Wax

Gel

Lotion

Mousse

Activator

Moisturiser

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 11 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Securing long hair Long hair should be handled and controlled prior to and during the dressing process by brushing and detangling before and throughout the service to prevent damage to the hair and discomfort to the client Long hair may have to be secured for a range of styles at the end of a plait at the roots for a roll to secure knots curls and twists This can be done using a variety of techniques

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets Care must be taken not to damage the hair structure when using different securing materials and devices unsuitable securing may cause

bull Fragilitis crinium (split ends) bull Damaged cuticles bull Trichorrhexis nodosa (swollen broken hair shaft)

You must only secure long hair with covered bands or bands designed especially for this purpose Do not use elastic bands as they will damage and break the hair The start of many styles can be with the use of pony tails One method of securing this is

1 Knot a 24cm piece of covered elastic into a circle and attach a grip at each end 2 Gather the mesh of hair in one hand after smoothing it with a brush or comb and with the other hand push one of the grips flat to the Head into the middle of the pony tail 3 Ensure that the grip feels secure and then pull the elastic around the hair mesh by the second grip wrapping it over the top of the first grip until it will not go any further 4 Slide the grip half way out of the elastic and the push the second grip into the underneath of the mesh of hair and secure You may use this method of securing hair on any part of the head and as many times as is required It should not damage the hair because it does not pull the hair when removing the elastic You can see where this is used by Patrick Cameron in all of his books on long hair styles or on wwwpatrick-cameroncom This method of securing hair can also be used when adding a hair piece Follow the directions for securing then add a row of overlapping grips in a circle around the elastic Remove the elastic and spread the hair evenly this will provide a secure base to attach the hair piece to You are now ready to dress the hair and the hair piece

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 12 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

POSTICHE (Added hair) Added hair postiche also comes in the form of

Pin curls - small meshes which can be added - different colours straight or curly

Ringlets - larger meshes

Marteaux - flat folded pieces of weft - attached by either combs or loops - useful for adding waves

Switches - lengths of weft - twisted coiled plaited or spiral

Torsades - made from marteaux and switches - forms coils

Swathes - made from marteaux and switches - encircle the head

Chignons - rolls or knots - can be worn on the crown or nape

Wefts ndash a curtain of hair that can be gripped or sewn in You will need to carry out research into other types of added hair from text books web sites trade magazines trade shows and manufacturers See some examples of added hair below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 13 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ask

Dressing Long hair tools amp equipment

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 5: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 5 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

How the incorrect application of heat can affect the hair and scalp Hairdressers must be aware of the dangers involved in using and training staff to correctly use heated styling equipment If care is not taken there is danger of

Damaging the cuticle

Causing the hair to break

Burning the scalp making it tight and sensitive

Hair becomes scorched or singed

Hair becomes dry and dehydrated

Discolouring the hair ndash white or bleached hair becomes yellow Afro-Caribbean hair will become reddish Preparing the clients hair Before beginning to style a clients hair and using any equipment on the client you must have carried out a full consultation with the client to make sure you have the necessary equipment available to carry out an efficient service Effective preparation makes it easier and quicker to achieve the desired look You will need to discuss with the client

The agreed look required

Use of styling and finishing products

Use of dressing products

Ornamentation and added hair required The following factors affect the styling dressing and finish result of the hair by determining the size of styling tools and styling products used the temperature of tools and the direction of the styled hair the effect or finish you wish to achieve

Desired look or occasion for which the style is required

Hair Out

Hair growth patterns

Hair elasticity

Head face shape and features

Hair texture

Hair length

Hair density Task Discuss each one with a partner giving examples of how you think the factors contribute to the consultation process

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 6 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Preparing the hair for dressing up Some salons ask clients to shampoo their hair the night before a service to ensure the hair is clean and has had enough time to harden and become more manageable to dress up If this is not the case you will need to prepare the hair in the salon Freshly shampooed hair can be slippery and sometimes static making it difficult to work with so it is important that the appropriate preparations are made depending upon the techniques to be used

Technique Preparation

Rolls Twists Curls Setting or Blow-dry and tonging

Knots and Weaves Blow dry

Plaits Blow dry or wet hair

Styling Techniques

Styling techniques When Why

Blow drying

Wet Hair Soft smooth look

Pin curling amp Finger waves Wet Hair Create waves or specific direction

Heated styling equipment

Dry Hair A variety of looks

Setting

Wet hair For increased volume and a firm hold

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 7 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Setting by winding on and off base (E4) The diagrams show conventional setting methods points to roots Picture 1 Winding on base - gives root movement creating maximum volume Winding on base - dictates the direction the hair moves Picture 2 Winding off base - gives less root movement creating minimum volume Winding off base - gives maximum direction of hair movement Practice alternative setting methods from roots to points and use non-conventional items such as rickracks and bendys to achieve different looks

On base

Off base

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 8 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Tools and equipment Look at the range of tools and equipment available in your salon for styling finishing and dressing hair and state how they are used

Tools and equipment How to use

Brushes combs clips etc

Rollers conventional and velcro

Hairdryer amp attachments

Curling tongs

Spiral hot rod

Straightners

Crimpers amp wavers

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 9 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Products It is equally important that the correct products are chosen for the service All styling and dressing products should be use economically to minimize the wastage of products in the salon It is important to follow manufacturerrsquos instructions when using products in order to

To use products correctly

To get the best results

To be able to give the correct advice to clients You will need to have good knowledge of the products available in the salon to use when styling and dressing the clientrsquos hair Manufacturers may give different names to their products but they are all designed to achieve similar results on the hair It is personal preference as to which manufacturer your salon uses You will be familiar with these products and understand which ones will produce the best results on different hair types Research the products your salon uses

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 10 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

PRODUCTS Follow this chart and complete by identifying products you use in the salon state which are styling dressing and finishing products and include manufacturersrsquo instructions

Product Brand name MFI How to Use

Sprays

Silhouette

Fix finished style amp lengthens life of style Help protect from atmospheric moisture Spray fine mist 10-20cms from the hair Protect eyes do not inhale

Dressing cream

Oil

Wax

Gel

Lotion

Mousse

Activator

Moisturiser

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 11 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Securing long hair Long hair should be handled and controlled prior to and during the dressing process by brushing and detangling before and throughout the service to prevent damage to the hair and discomfort to the client Long hair may have to be secured for a range of styles at the end of a plait at the roots for a roll to secure knots curls and twists This can be done using a variety of techniques

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets Care must be taken not to damage the hair structure when using different securing materials and devices unsuitable securing may cause

bull Fragilitis crinium (split ends) bull Damaged cuticles bull Trichorrhexis nodosa (swollen broken hair shaft)

You must only secure long hair with covered bands or bands designed especially for this purpose Do not use elastic bands as they will damage and break the hair The start of many styles can be with the use of pony tails One method of securing this is

1 Knot a 24cm piece of covered elastic into a circle and attach a grip at each end 2 Gather the mesh of hair in one hand after smoothing it with a brush or comb and with the other hand push one of the grips flat to the Head into the middle of the pony tail 3 Ensure that the grip feels secure and then pull the elastic around the hair mesh by the second grip wrapping it over the top of the first grip until it will not go any further 4 Slide the grip half way out of the elastic and the push the second grip into the underneath of the mesh of hair and secure You may use this method of securing hair on any part of the head and as many times as is required It should not damage the hair because it does not pull the hair when removing the elastic You can see where this is used by Patrick Cameron in all of his books on long hair styles or on wwwpatrick-cameroncom This method of securing hair can also be used when adding a hair piece Follow the directions for securing then add a row of overlapping grips in a circle around the elastic Remove the elastic and spread the hair evenly this will provide a secure base to attach the hair piece to You are now ready to dress the hair and the hair piece

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 12 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

POSTICHE (Added hair) Added hair postiche also comes in the form of

Pin curls - small meshes which can be added - different colours straight or curly

Ringlets - larger meshes

Marteaux - flat folded pieces of weft - attached by either combs or loops - useful for adding waves

Switches - lengths of weft - twisted coiled plaited or spiral

Torsades - made from marteaux and switches - forms coils

Swathes - made from marteaux and switches - encircle the head

Chignons - rolls or knots - can be worn on the crown or nape

Wefts ndash a curtain of hair that can be gripped or sewn in You will need to carry out research into other types of added hair from text books web sites trade magazines trade shows and manufacturers See some examples of added hair below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 13 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ask

Dressing Long hair tools amp equipment

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 6: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 6 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Preparing the hair for dressing up Some salons ask clients to shampoo their hair the night before a service to ensure the hair is clean and has had enough time to harden and become more manageable to dress up If this is not the case you will need to prepare the hair in the salon Freshly shampooed hair can be slippery and sometimes static making it difficult to work with so it is important that the appropriate preparations are made depending upon the techniques to be used

Technique Preparation

Rolls Twists Curls Setting or Blow-dry and tonging

Knots and Weaves Blow dry

Plaits Blow dry or wet hair

Styling Techniques

Styling techniques When Why

Blow drying

Wet Hair Soft smooth look

Pin curling amp Finger waves Wet Hair Create waves or specific direction

Heated styling equipment

Dry Hair A variety of looks

Setting

Wet hair For increased volume and a firm hold

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 7 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Setting by winding on and off base (E4) The diagrams show conventional setting methods points to roots Picture 1 Winding on base - gives root movement creating maximum volume Winding on base - dictates the direction the hair moves Picture 2 Winding off base - gives less root movement creating minimum volume Winding off base - gives maximum direction of hair movement Practice alternative setting methods from roots to points and use non-conventional items such as rickracks and bendys to achieve different looks

On base

Off base

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 8 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Tools and equipment Look at the range of tools and equipment available in your salon for styling finishing and dressing hair and state how they are used

Tools and equipment How to use

Brushes combs clips etc

Rollers conventional and velcro

Hairdryer amp attachments

Curling tongs

Spiral hot rod

Straightners

Crimpers amp wavers

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 9 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Products It is equally important that the correct products are chosen for the service All styling and dressing products should be use economically to minimize the wastage of products in the salon It is important to follow manufacturerrsquos instructions when using products in order to

To use products correctly

To get the best results

To be able to give the correct advice to clients You will need to have good knowledge of the products available in the salon to use when styling and dressing the clientrsquos hair Manufacturers may give different names to their products but they are all designed to achieve similar results on the hair It is personal preference as to which manufacturer your salon uses You will be familiar with these products and understand which ones will produce the best results on different hair types Research the products your salon uses

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 10 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

PRODUCTS Follow this chart and complete by identifying products you use in the salon state which are styling dressing and finishing products and include manufacturersrsquo instructions

Product Brand name MFI How to Use

Sprays

Silhouette

Fix finished style amp lengthens life of style Help protect from atmospheric moisture Spray fine mist 10-20cms from the hair Protect eyes do not inhale

Dressing cream

Oil

Wax

Gel

Lotion

Mousse

Activator

Moisturiser

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 11 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Securing long hair Long hair should be handled and controlled prior to and during the dressing process by brushing and detangling before and throughout the service to prevent damage to the hair and discomfort to the client Long hair may have to be secured for a range of styles at the end of a plait at the roots for a roll to secure knots curls and twists This can be done using a variety of techniques

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets Care must be taken not to damage the hair structure when using different securing materials and devices unsuitable securing may cause

bull Fragilitis crinium (split ends) bull Damaged cuticles bull Trichorrhexis nodosa (swollen broken hair shaft)

You must only secure long hair with covered bands or bands designed especially for this purpose Do not use elastic bands as they will damage and break the hair The start of many styles can be with the use of pony tails One method of securing this is

1 Knot a 24cm piece of covered elastic into a circle and attach a grip at each end 2 Gather the mesh of hair in one hand after smoothing it with a brush or comb and with the other hand push one of the grips flat to the Head into the middle of the pony tail 3 Ensure that the grip feels secure and then pull the elastic around the hair mesh by the second grip wrapping it over the top of the first grip until it will not go any further 4 Slide the grip half way out of the elastic and the push the second grip into the underneath of the mesh of hair and secure You may use this method of securing hair on any part of the head and as many times as is required It should not damage the hair because it does not pull the hair when removing the elastic You can see where this is used by Patrick Cameron in all of his books on long hair styles or on wwwpatrick-cameroncom This method of securing hair can also be used when adding a hair piece Follow the directions for securing then add a row of overlapping grips in a circle around the elastic Remove the elastic and spread the hair evenly this will provide a secure base to attach the hair piece to You are now ready to dress the hair and the hair piece

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 12 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

POSTICHE (Added hair) Added hair postiche also comes in the form of

Pin curls - small meshes which can be added - different colours straight or curly

Ringlets - larger meshes

Marteaux - flat folded pieces of weft - attached by either combs or loops - useful for adding waves

Switches - lengths of weft - twisted coiled plaited or spiral

Torsades - made from marteaux and switches - forms coils

Swathes - made from marteaux and switches - encircle the head

Chignons - rolls or knots - can be worn on the crown or nape

Wefts ndash a curtain of hair that can be gripped or sewn in You will need to carry out research into other types of added hair from text books web sites trade magazines trade shows and manufacturers See some examples of added hair below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 13 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ask

Dressing Long hair tools amp equipment

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 7: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 7 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Setting by winding on and off base (E4) The diagrams show conventional setting methods points to roots Picture 1 Winding on base - gives root movement creating maximum volume Winding on base - dictates the direction the hair moves Picture 2 Winding off base - gives less root movement creating minimum volume Winding off base - gives maximum direction of hair movement Practice alternative setting methods from roots to points and use non-conventional items such as rickracks and bendys to achieve different looks

On base

Off base

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 8 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Tools and equipment Look at the range of tools and equipment available in your salon for styling finishing and dressing hair and state how they are used

Tools and equipment How to use

Brushes combs clips etc

Rollers conventional and velcro

Hairdryer amp attachments

Curling tongs

Spiral hot rod

Straightners

Crimpers amp wavers

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 9 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Products It is equally important that the correct products are chosen for the service All styling and dressing products should be use economically to minimize the wastage of products in the salon It is important to follow manufacturerrsquos instructions when using products in order to

To use products correctly

To get the best results

To be able to give the correct advice to clients You will need to have good knowledge of the products available in the salon to use when styling and dressing the clientrsquos hair Manufacturers may give different names to their products but they are all designed to achieve similar results on the hair It is personal preference as to which manufacturer your salon uses You will be familiar with these products and understand which ones will produce the best results on different hair types Research the products your salon uses

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 10 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

PRODUCTS Follow this chart and complete by identifying products you use in the salon state which are styling dressing and finishing products and include manufacturersrsquo instructions

Product Brand name MFI How to Use

Sprays

Silhouette

Fix finished style amp lengthens life of style Help protect from atmospheric moisture Spray fine mist 10-20cms from the hair Protect eyes do not inhale

Dressing cream

Oil

Wax

Gel

Lotion

Mousse

Activator

Moisturiser

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 11 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Securing long hair Long hair should be handled and controlled prior to and during the dressing process by brushing and detangling before and throughout the service to prevent damage to the hair and discomfort to the client Long hair may have to be secured for a range of styles at the end of a plait at the roots for a roll to secure knots curls and twists This can be done using a variety of techniques

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets Care must be taken not to damage the hair structure when using different securing materials and devices unsuitable securing may cause

bull Fragilitis crinium (split ends) bull Damaged cuticles bull Trichorrhexis nodosa (swollen broken hair shaft)

You must only secure long hair with covered bands or bands designed especially for this purpose Do not use elastic bands as they will damage and break the hair The start of many styles can be with the use of pony tails One method of securing this is

1 Knot a 24cm piece of covered elastic into a circle and attach a grip at each end 2 Gather the mesh of hair in one hand after smoothing it with a brush or comb and with the other hand push one of the grips flat to the Head into the middle of the pony tail 3 Ensure that the grip feels secure and then pull the elastic around the hair mesh by the second grip wrapping it over the top of the first grip until it will not go any further 4 Slide the grip half way out of the elastic and the push the second grip into the underneath of the mesh of hair and secure You may use this method of securing hair on any part of the head and as many times as is required It should not damage the hair because it does not pull the hair when removing the elastic You can see where this is used by Patrick Cameron in all of his books on long hair styles or on wwwpatrick-cameroncom This method of securing hair can also be used when adding a hair piece Follow the directions for securing then add a row of overlapping grips in a circle around the elastic Remove the elastic and spread the hair evenly this will provide a secure base to attach the hair piece to You are now ready to dress the hair and the hair piece

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 12 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

POSTICHE (Added hair) Added hair postiche also comes in the form of

Pin curls - small meshes which can be added - different colours straight or curly

Ringlets - larger meshes

Marteaux - flat folded pieces of weft - attached by either combs or loops - useful for adding waves

Switches - lengths of weft - twisted coiled plaited or spiral

Torsades - made from marteaux and switches - forms coils

Swathes - made from marteaux and switches - encircle the head

Chignons - rolls or knots - can be worn on the crown or nape

Wefts ndash a curtain of hair that can be gripped or sewn in You will need to carry out research into other types of added hair from text books web sites trade magazines trade shows and manufacturers See some examples of added hair below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 13 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ask

Dressing Long hair tools amp equipment

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 8: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 8 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Tools and equipment Look at the range of tools and equipment available in your salon for styling finishing and dressing hair and state how they are used

Tools and equipment How to use

Brushes combs clips etc

Rollers conventional and velcro

Hairdryer amp attachments

Curling tongs

Spiral hot rod

Straightners

Crimpers amp wavers

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 9 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Products It is equally important that the correct products are chosen for the service All styling and dressing products should be use economically to minimize the wastage of products in the salon It is important to follow manufacturerrsquos instructions when using products in order to

To use products correctly

To get the best results

To be able to give the correct advice to clients You will need to have good knowledge of the products available in the salon to use when styling and dressing the clientrsquos hair Manufacturers may give different names to their products but they are all designed to achieve similar results on the hair It is personal preference as to which manufacturer your salon uses You will be familiar with these products and understand which ones will produce the best results on different hair types Research the products your salon uses

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 10 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

PRODUCTS Follow this chart and complete by identifying products you use in the salon state which are styling dressing and finishing products and include manufacturersrsquo instructions

Product Brand name MFI How to Use

Sprays

Silhouette

Fix finished style amp lengthens life of style Help protect from atmospheric moisture Spray fine mist 10-20cms from the hair Protect eyes do not inhale

Dressing cream

Oil

Wax

Gel

Lotion

Mousse

Activator

Moisturiser

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 11 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Securing long hair Long hair should be handled and controlled prior to and during the dressing process by brushing and detangling before and throughout the service to prevent damage to the hair and discomfort to the client Long hair may have to be secured for a range of styles at the end of a plait at the roots for a roll to secure knots curls and twists This can be done using a variety of techniques

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets Care must be taken not to damage the hair structure when using different securing materials and devices unsuitable securing may cause

bull Fragilitis crinium (split ends) bull Damaged cuticles bull Trichorrhexis nodosa (swollen broken hair shaft)

You must only secure long hair with covered bands or bands designed especially for this purpose Do not use elastic bands as they will damage and break the hair The start of many styles can be with the use of pony tails One method of securing this is

1 Knot a 24cm piece of covered elastic into a circle and attach a grip at each end 2 Gather the mesh of hair in one hand after smoothing it with a brush or comb and with the other hand push one of the grips flat to the Head into the middle of the pony tail 3 Ensure that the grip feels secure and then pull the elastic around the hair mesh by the second grip wrapping it over the top of the first grip until it will not go any further 4 Slide the grip half way out of the elastic and the push the second grip into the underneath of the mesh of hair and secure You may use this method of securing hair on any part of the head and as many times as is required It should not damage the hair because it does not pull the hair when removing the elastic You can see where this is used by Patrick Cameron in all of his books on long hair styles or on wwwpatrick-cameroncom This method of securing hair can also be used when adding a hair piece Follow the directions for securing then add a row of overlapping grips in a circle around the elastic Remove the elastic and spread the hair evenly this will provide a secure base to attach the hair piece to You are now ready to dress the hair and the hair piece

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 12 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

POSTICHE (Added hair) Added hair postiche also comes in the form of

Pin curls - small meshes which can be added - different colours straight or curly

Ringlets - larger meshes

Marteaux - flat folded pieces of weft - attached by either combs or loops - useful for adding waves

Switches - lengths of weft - twisted coiled plaited or spiral

Torsades - made from marteaux and switches - forms coils

Swathes - made from marteaux and switches - encircle the head

Chignons - rolls or knots - can be worn on the crown or nape

Wefts ndash a curtain of hair that can be gripped or sewn in You will need to carry out research into other types of added hair from text books web sites trade magazines trade shows and manufacturers See some examples of added hair below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 13 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ask

Dressing Long hair tools amp equipment

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 9: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 9 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Products It is equally important that the correct products are chosen for the service All styling and dressing products should be use economically to minimize the wastage of products in the salon It is important to follow manufacturerrsquos instructions when using products in order to

To use products correctly

To get the best results

To be able to give the correct advice to clients You will need to have good knowledge of the products available in the salon to use when styling and dressing the clientrsquos hair Manufacturers may give different names to their products but they are all designed to achieve similar results on the hair It is personal preference as to which manufacturer your salon uses You will be familiar with these products and understand which ones will produce the best results on different hair types Research the products your salon uses

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 10 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

PRODUCTS Follow this chart and complete by identifying products you use in the salon state which are styling dressing and finishing products and include manufacturersrsquo instructions

Product Brand name MFI How to Use

Sprays

Silhouette

Fix finished style amp lengthens life of style Help protect from atmospheric moisture Spray fine mist 10-20cms from the hair Protect eyes do not inhale

Dressing cream

Oil

Wax

Gel

Lotion

Mousse

Activator

Moisturiser

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 11 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Securing long hair Long hair should be handled and controlled prior to and during the dressing process by brushing and detangling before and throughout the service to prevent damage to the hair and discomfort to the client Long hair may have to be secured for a range of styles at the end of a plait at the roots for a roll to secure knots curls and twists This can be done using a variety of techniques

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets Care must be taken not to damage the hair structure when using different securing materials and devices unsuitable securing may cause

bull Fragilitis crinium (split ends) bull Damaged cuticles bull Trichorrhexis nodosa (swollen broken hair shaft)

You must only secure long hair with covered bands or bands designed especially for this purpose Do not use elastic bands as they will damage and break the hair The start of many styles can be with the use of pony tails One method of securing this is

1 Knot a 24cm piece of covered elastic into a circle and attach a grip at each end 2 Gather the mesh of hair in one hand after smoothing it with a brush or comb and with the other hand push one of the grips flat to the Head into the middle of the pony tail 3 Ensure that the grip feels secure and then pull the elastic around the hair mesh by the second grip wrapping it over the top of the first grip until it will not go any further 4 Slide the grip half way out of the elastic and the push the second grip into the underneath of the mesh of hair and secure You may use this method of securing hair on any part of the head and as many times as is required It should not damage the hair because it does not pull the hair when removing the elastic You can see where this is used by Patrick Cameron in all of his books on long hair styles or on wwwpatrick-cameroncom This method of securing hair can also be used when adding a hair piece Follow the directions for securing then add a row of overlapping grips in a circle around the elastic Remove the elastic and spread the hair evenly this will provide a secure base to attach the hair piece to You are now ready to dress the hair and the hair piece

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 12 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

POSTICHE (Added hair) Added hair postiche also comes in the form of

Pin curls - small meshes which can be added - different colours straight or curly

Ringlets - larger meshes

Marteaux - flat folded pieces of weft - attached by either combs or loops - useful for adding waves

Switches - lengths of weft - twisted coiled plaited or spiral

Torsades - made from marteaux and switches - forms coils

Swathes - made from marteaux and switches - encircle the head

Chignons - rolls or knots - can be worn on the crown or nape

Wefts ndash a curtain of hair that can be gripped or sewn in You will need to carry out research into other types of added hair from text books web sites trade magazines trade shows and manufacturers See some examples of added hair below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 13 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ask

Dressing Long hair tools amp equipment

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 10: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 10 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

PRODUCTS Follow this chart and complete by identifying products you use in the salon state which are styling dressing and finishing products and include manufacturersrsquo instructions

Product Brand name MFI How to Use

Sprays

Silhouette

Fix finished style amp lengthens life of style Help protect from atmospheric moisture Spray fine mist 10-20cms from the hair Protect eyes do not inhale

Dressing cream

Oil

Wax

Gel

Lotion

Mousse

Activator

Moisturiser

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 11 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Securing long hair Long hair should be handled and controlled prior to and during the dressing process by brushing and detangling before and throughout the service to prevent damage to the hair and discomfort to the client Long hair may have to be secured for a range of styles at the end of a plait at the roots for a roll to secure knots curls and twists This can be done using a variety of techniques

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets Care must be taken not to damage the hair structure when using different securing materials and devices unsuitable securing may cause

bull Fragilitis crinium (split ends) bull Damaged cuticles bull Trichorrhexis nodosa (swollen broken hair shaft)

You must only secure long hair with covered bands or bands designed especially for this purpose Do not use elastic bands as they will damage and break the hair The start of many styles can be with the use of pony tails One method of securing this is

1 Knot a 24cm piece of covered elastic into a circle and attach a grip at each end 2 Gather the mesh of hair in one hand after smoothing it with a brush or comb and with the other hand push one of the grips flat to the Head into the middle of the pony tail 3 Ensure that the grip feels secure and then pull the elastic around the hair mesh by the second grip wrapping it over the top of the first grip until it will not go any further 4 Slide the grip half way out of the elastic and the push the second grip into the underneath of the mesh of hair and secure You may use this method of securing hair on any part of the head and as many times as is required It should not damage the hair because it does not pull the hair when removing the elastic You can see where this is used by Patrick Cameron in all of his books on long hair styles or on wwwpatrick-cameroncom This method of securing hair can also be used when adding a hair piece Follow the directions for securing then add a row of overlapping grips in a circle around the elastic Remove the elastic and spread the hair evenly this will provide a secure base to attach the hair piece to You are now ready to dress the hair and the hair piece

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 12 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

POSTICHE (Added hair) Added hair postiche also comes in the form of

Pin curls - small meshes which can be added - different colours straight or curly

Ringlets - larger meshes

Marteaux - flat folded pieces of weft - attached by either combs or loops - useful for adding waves

Switches - lengths of weft - twisted coiled plaited or spiral

Torsades - made from marteaux and switches - forms coils

Swathes - made from marteaux and switches - encircle the head

Chignons - rolls or knots - can be worn on the crown or nape

Wefts ndash a curtain of hair that can be gripped or sewn in You will need to carry out research into other types of added hair from text books web sites trade magazines trade shows and manufacturers See some examples of added hair below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 13 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ask

Dressing Long hair tools amp equipment

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 11: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 11 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Securing long hair Long hair should be handled and controlled prior to and during the dressing process by brushing and detangling before and throughout the service to prevent damage to the hair and discomfort to the client Long hair may have to be secured for a range of styles at the end of a plait at the roots for a roll to secure knots curls and twists This can be done using a variety of techniques

Covered elastic

Grips

Hair pins

Combs

Fine nets Care must be taken not to damage the hair structure when using different securing materials and devices unsuitable securing may cause

bull Fragilitis crinium (split ends) bull Damaged cuticles bull Trichorrhexis nodosa (swollen broken hair shaft)

You must only secure long hair with covered bands or bands designed especially for this purpose Do not use elastic bands as they will damage and break the hair The start of many styles can be with the use of pony tails One method of securing this is

1 Knot a 24cm piece of covered elastic into a circle and attach a grip at each end 2 Gather the mesh of hair in one hand after smoothing it with a brush or comb and with the other hand push one of the grips flat to the Head into the middle of the pony tail 3 Ensure that the grip feels secure and then pull the elastic around the hair mesh by the second grip wrapping it over the top of the first grip until it will not go any further 4 Slide the grip half way out of the elastic and the push the second grip into the underneath of the mesh of hair and secure You may use this method of securing hair on any part of the head and as many times as is required It should not damage the hair because it does not pull the hair when removing the elastic You can see where this is used by Patrick Cameron in all of his books on long hair styles or on wwwpatrick-cameroncom This method of securing hair can also be used when adding a hair piece Follow the directions for securing then add a row of overlapping grips in a circle around the elastic Remove the elastic and spread the hair evenly this will provide a secure base to attach the hair piece to You are now ready to dress the hair and the hair piece

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 12 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

POSTICHE (Added hair) Added hair postiche also comes in the form of

Pin curls - small meshes which can be added - different colours straight or curly

Ringlets - larger meshes

Marteaux - flat folded pieces of weft - attached by either combs or loops - useful for adding waves

Switches - lengths of weft - twisted coiled plaited or spiral

Torsades - made from marteaux and switches - forms coils

Swathes - made from marteaux and switches - encircle the head

Chignons - rolls or knots - can be worn on the crown or nape

Wefts ndash a curtain of hair that can be gripped or sewn in You will need to carry out research into other types of added hair from text books web sites trade magazines trade shows and manufacturers See some examples of added hair below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 13 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ask

Dressing Long hair tools amp equipment

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 12: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 12 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

POSTICHE (Added hair) Added hair postiche also comes in the form of

Pin curls - small meshes which can be added - different colours straight or curly

Ringlets - larger meshes

Marteaux - flat folded pieces of weft - attached by either combs or loops - useful for adding waves

Switches - lengths of weft - twisted coiled plaited or spiral

Torsades - made from marteaux and switches - forms coils

Swathes - made from marteaux and switches - encircle the head

Chignons - rolls or knots - can be worn on the crown or nape

Wefts ndash a curtain of hair that can be gripped or sewn in You will need to carry out research into other types of added hair from text books web sites trade magazines trade shows and manufacturers See some examples of added hair below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 13 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ask

Dressing Long hair tools amp equipment

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 13: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 13 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ask

Dressing Long hair tools amp equipment

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 14: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 14 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair eg Wood shavings Christmas decorations Chop sticks Fans Flowers Beads Buttons Feathers Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are

No sharp edges

No Broken teeth

No Broken clasps

Not cracked or broken See some examples below

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 15: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 15 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing - gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back brushed Backcombing - uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg Rolls both vertical and horizontal high and low knots curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 16: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 16 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row This will secure the hair more firmly Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape balance direction and volume required Vertical roll

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 17: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 17 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers rickracks chopstics etc to create a smooth or funky look To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 18: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 18 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Non-conventional styling Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish

Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head

PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair

Divide the hair section onto three Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 23 rd of the hair

across the outside sections Fold the remaining 13rd of added hair over the outside section Plait the added hair

into the plait and secure

Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 19: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 19 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

ornamentation other than added hair There are many options when plaiting

How many strands you are working with

The number of plaits required

Plait positions mdash around or across the head

Over or under plaiting You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing ndash A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging

In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 20: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 20 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with

Braid sheen

Scalp oils

Hair oils

Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry

A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 21: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 21 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Twists Twists can be use in several ways one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways

Knots

Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 22: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 22 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look

A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look

Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 23: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 23 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time Check client comfort at all times

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 24: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 24 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved

Use a large tooth straight comb

Comb the hair until the section is really smooth

Using the comb and your fingers start at the front hairline and comb to the crown

Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline

Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pinsection clip

For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest

Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete

Finish loose ends with pincurls

Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves

Dry hair under the dryer

When hair is dry remove clips

Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed

Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an lsquoSrsquo shape using the fingers and a comb Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique This creates a softer look see image 3 Ask your trainer for a demonstration

1 2 3

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 25: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 25 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls your tutor will demonstrate the following types

Stand up barrel curl

Flat barrel curl

Clock spring curl

Anti-clock spring curl

Reverse pin curl Procedure

Apply appropriate setting aids

Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker

Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style

Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it

Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look your trainer will show you how this can be done Barrel curls

For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers

Clock spring curls

For clockanti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair Mould back to the section base using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots Secure curl on its base with a pin clip Gives a tight curl

Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face ears and nape as they can get very hot and burn the skin

Curl parts

Stand up barrel pin curl

Clockspring curl

Flat-barrel curl

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 26: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 26 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this causersquos excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia The first signs are

Discomfort

Hair becomes dull

Sensitive and sore scalp

Raised Follicles

Damaged follicles

Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede

Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead The likely areas for this to appear are

hair line

nape

crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day then the condition is likely to appear very quickly Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur Web sites httpwwwhairboutiquecomtipshairextensionshtm

httpwwwhair-stylesorgselectinghtml

httpwwwinstylemagazinecoukinstyleukvideobehind0269652003724200html

httpwwwukhairdresserscomhair_moveindexasp

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-

Page 27: Dress long hair

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Page 27 Creative StudiesHair and Beauty08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26

-NOTES-