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Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients Stéphane Lacoutiere Marketing Manager Hair Styling Europe

Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

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Page 1: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients Stéphane Lacoutiere Marketing Manager Hair Styling Europe

Page 2: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Luvigel® FIT

2

Product profile

Product performance

Thickening

Stiffness

Curl Retention

Foaming

Running on hand

Formulations

Page 3: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

THICKENERS STYLING POLYMERS

Main styling gel components:

Thickeners and Styling polymers

Anionic

Carbopol®, Aculyn®

Rheocare®, Salcare®

Nonionic

HEC, HPG

Cationic

Luvigel ® Advanced

Cosmedia® Ultragel 300

Anionic

Luviset® CA 66,

Luviset® CAN

Cationic

Luviquat® Hold,

Luviquat® Supreme

Nonionic

Luviskol® K or VA grades

Luviset® Clear

3

Page 4: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Luvigel® FIT

Tailor-made liquid thickener for clear hair styling gels

Working in synergy with many styling polymers such as

Luviskol® K grades (PVP)

Luviskol® VA grades (VP/VA Copolymer)

Luviset® Clear

Luviquat® Supreme, etc…

to reach

EXTRA STRONG TO

EXTREME HOLD

AT HIGH STYLING

POLYMER CONTENT

NORMAL TO

STRONG HOLD

AT LOW STYLING

POLYMER CONTENT

4

Page 5: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

pH Increase

Luvigel® FIT Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer

HASE (Hydrophobic Alkali Swellable Emulsion) Thickener

“Physical” crosslinking via

hydrophobic - hydrophobic

interactions leads to osmotic swelling

and viscosity increase upon

neutralization in water

10000

100000

3 5 7 9 11 pH

mPa

1000

100

5

Page 6: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Luvigel® FIT Product characteristics

INCI: Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer

Appearance Milky liquid emulsion in water

Solids content 29 - 32 %

pH (as supplied) 2.0 - 3.5

Viscosity (as supplied) 0.005 - 0.03 Pas [5 - 30 mPas]

Viscosity of 1 % polymer in water*

(pH 7.0; Brookfield RVT, Sp. 7, 20 rpm) 50 - 70 Pas

* Water-based gel with:

0.34 % AMP

0.50 % preservative Euxyl® PE9010,

0.40 % solubilizer Cremophor® CO 40,

0.10 % perfume

Contains 0.10% Euxyl® K220

(INCI: Ethylhexylglycerin,

Methylisothiazolinone, Aqua)

Luvigel® FIT

6

Page 7: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Luvigel® FIT

7

Product profile

Product performance

Thickening

Stiffness

Curl Retention

Foaming

Running on hand

Formulations

Page 8: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

0,00 0,50 1,00 1,50

Vis

co

sity

(Pa

s)

Thickener concentration (%)

Luvigel FIT Acrylates Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer Carbomer

Thickening performance

* Water-based gels neutralized with 0.34 % 2-AMP, 0.50 % preservative Euxyl® PE9010, 0.40 % solubilizer Cremophor® CO 40, 0.10 % perfume.

VISCOSITY* vs. THICKENER CONCENTRATION

8

Improved

thickening

compared to

HASE thickener

benchmark

without sacrifying

sensory

®

All percentages are active matter

Target viscosity

Page 9: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

All percentages are active matter

Stiffness Synergy with PVP (1)

9

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

0% 1% 2% 3% 4% 5% 6% 7%

Stiffne

ss [

cN

]

Luviskol® K 90 [%]

0.8% Luvigel FIT 0.3% Carbomer

* Stiffness test on round shaped hair strands

®

Luvigel® FIT

enables

enhanced

stiffness in hair

styling gels at the

same styling

polymer level …

… which means

a better hold and

even the

possibility of

extreme hold at

high polymer level

STIFFNESS* vs. LUVISKOL® K 90 CONCENTRATION

Target gel viscosity of 40-60 Pas

Page 10: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

All percentages are active matter

Target gel viscosity of 40-60 Pas

Stiffness Synergy with PVP (2)

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

0% 1% 2% 3% 4% 5% 6% 7%

Stiffne

ss [

cN

]

Luviskol® K 90 [%]

0.8% Luvigel FIT 0.3% Carbomer

Luvigel® FIT

enables the same

stiffness in styling

gels at lower

polymer level

Strong hold

possible at low

styling polymer

content

Low cost

solutions

Less flaking

10

®

STIFFNESS* vs. LUVISKOL® K 90 CONCENTRATION

120

* Stiffness test on round shaped hair strands

Page 11: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Stiffness test, an in vitro measure

of Hold / Setting

Flat shaped hair strand

(weight 3,5g, length 20 cm)

Application on dry hair of 1.6 ± 0,1 g

diluted gel (20% in water)

Alignment of single hair fibers with a comb

Conditioning overnight

at 20°C and 65 % R.H.

Bending test on 10 hair strands at

4 different positions at 20°C and

65 % R.H.

11

Page 12: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Target gel viscosity of 40-60 Pas

0 50 100 150 200

cN

0 50 100 150 200

cN

Stiffness Synergy with many styling polymers

12

[Thickening + Styling] polymer content = 3.8 %

Stiffness [ ]

0.4 % Carbomer

1.2 % Acrylates/Steareth-20

Methacrylate Copolymer

0.8 % Luvigel® FIT

0.6 % Carbomer

1.0 % Acrylates/Steareth-20

Methacrylate Copolymer

0.85 % Luvigel® FIT

Stiffness [ ]

Luvigel® FIT enables enhanced stiffness,

which means enhanced hold in styling

gels with many styling polymers

STIFFNESS TEST ON

10 FLAT HAIR

STRANDS

AT 4 DIFFERENT

POSITIONS AT 20°C

AND 65% R.H.

[Thickening + Styling] polymer content = 3.85 %

LUVISKOL® K 90 LUVISET® CLEAR

Page 13: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Target gel viscosity of 40-60 Pas

Stiffness Enhanced synergy with Luviquat® Supreme

13

0 50 100 150 200 250 300

cN

0.5 % Carbomer

1.1 % Acrylates/Steareth-20

Methacrylate Copolymer

0.9 % Luvigel® FIT

0 50 100 150 200 250 300

cN

0.8 % Carbomer

1.2 % Acrylates/Steareth-20

Methacrylate Copolymer

1.0 % Luvigel® FIT

LUVISKOL® K 90 + 0.5 % LUVIQUAT® SUPREME LUVISET® CLEAR + 0.5 % LUVIQUAT® SUPREME

[Thickening + Styling] polymer content = 4.4 % [Thickening + Styling] polymer content = 4.5 %

Stiffness [ ] Stiffness [ ]

STIFFNESS TEST ON

10 FLAT HAIR

STRANDS

AT 4 DIFFERENT

POSITIONS AT 20°C

AND 65% R.H.

Luvigel® FIT enables enhanced stiffness,

which means enhanced hold in styling

gels with many styling polymers

Page 14: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Styling gels benchmarks

14

Page 15: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Setting performance of gels with

Luvigel® FIT compared to benchmarks

15

0 50 100 150 200 250 300

0.8 % Luvigel® FIT, 3.0 % Luviskol® K 90

0.85 % Luvigel® FIT, 3.0 % Luviset® Clear

0.9 % Luvigel® FIT, 3.0 % Luviskol® K 90, 0.5 % Luviquat® Supreme

1.0 % Luvigel® FIT, 3.0 % Luviset® Clear, 0.5 % Luviquat® Supreme

Benchmark 1

Clear gels

White gel

Slightly turbid gels

Stiffness* [cN]

* Stiffness test on 10 flat hair strands at 4 different positions at 20°C and 65% R.H.

Gels

wit

h L

uv

igel®

FIT

B

en

ch

mark

s

Benchmark 2

Benchmark 3

Benchmark 4

Benchmark 5

Benchmark 6

Almost clear gels

Page 16: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Target gel viscosity of 40-60 Pas

Curl Retention

16

[Thickening + Styling ] polymer content = 3.8 %

0 20 40 60 80 100

0.4 % Carbomer

1.2 % Acrylates/Steareth-20

Methacrylate Copolymer

0.8 % Luvigel® FIT

Curl Retention* [%]

Luvigel® FIT enables enhanced curl retention

which means long lasting hold in styling gels

with Luviskol® K 90 compared to Carbomer

* HAIR LENGTH MEASURED

AFTER 5H AT 90% R.H.

AND 25°C

Page 17: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Low Foaming on hand / hair

Styling gels based on 1% Luvigel® FIT show reduced foaming compared

to 1% Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer

(in combination with 2.5% Luviskol® K90)

Luvigel® FIT Acrylates/Steareth-20

Methacrylate Copolymer

17

Page 18: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Running of styling gels on hand

Ramp method

Simulation of the gel flow on hand by using a ramp

Pane of glass as a ramp (65°) in a closed glass container

Filter paper drained with 3.5 ml artificial sweat (5.75g in 100ml water; NaCl, NH4Cl, Acetic Acid, Lactic Acid pH 4.7)

0.3 g gel is applied on a filter paper

Detection of time (sec.) that the gel needs to flow 5 cm on the ramp

18

Flowing gel spot

Filter paper drained

with artificial sweat

Pane of glass

Closed container

Page 19: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Ramp method with artificial sweat

0 20 40 60 80 100

>

Time that the gel needs to flow 5 cm on the ramp(s)

Gels based on Luvigel® FIT

do not run on hand

19

Gels based on Luvigel® FIT

Benchmark 6

Benchmark 5

Benchmark 4

Benchmark 3

Benchmark 2

Benchmark 1

SIMULATION OF

THE GEL FLOW

ON HAND BY

USING A RAMP

FLOWING GEL SPOT

FILTER PAPER DRAINED

WITH ARTIFICIAL SWEAT

PANE OF GLASS

CLOSED CONTAINER

Page 20: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

LUVIGEL® FIT

Luvigel® FIT will fit you, your

formulations, your consumers

20

Thickening Styling

synergies

EXTREME HOLD AT HIGH STYLING

POLYMER CONTENT

STRONG HOLD AT LOW STYLING

POLYMER CONTENT

ADVANTAGES VS. Carbomer

1. Stronger hold in combination

with many styling polymers

2. Better clarity

3. Less flaking

4. No running on hands

Acrylates/Steareth-20

methacrylate Copolymer

1. Better thickening

2. Less foaming

upon application NOW POSSIBLE

Carbomer

Acrylates/Steareth-20

Methacrylate Copolymer

Page 21: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Luvigel® FIT

21

Product profile

Product performance

Thickening

Stiffness

Curl Retention

Foaming

Running on hand

Formulations

Page 22: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Strong Hold Styling Gel

HB-DE-12-049-1

22

Ingredients INCI %

A. Luvigel® FIT (30% a.s.) Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer 2.70

Water Aqua 40.00

B. Luviskol® K 90 solution (20% a.s.) PVP 15.00

1,2-Propylene Glycol Care Propylene Glycol 2.00

D-Panthenol 50 P Panthenol 1.00

AMP Ultra PC 2000 (Angus) 2-Amino-2-Methyl-1-Propanol 0.30

Water Aqua 38.00

C. Cremophor® CO 40 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.40

Fragrance Lisa Perfume 0.10

Euxyl PE 9010 (Schülke & Mayr) Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin 0.50

Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, sp. 7, 20 rpm)

pH

44 Pas

7.0

Stiffness* (setting/hold performance)

Polymer content: 3.8% including 3% styling polymer

131 ± 17 cN

* Stiffness test on 10 flat hair strands at 4 different positions at 20°C and 65% R.H.

Page 23: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Ultimate Hair Styling Gel

HB-DE-12-049-4

23

Ingredients INCI %

A. Luvigel® FIT (30% a.s) Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer 2.70

Water Aqua 40.00

B. Luviskol® K 90 solution (20% a.s.) PVP 10.00

Luviset® Clear (20% a.s.) VP/Methacrylate/Vinylimidazole Copolymer 15.00

1,2-Propylene Glycol Care Propylene Glycol 2.00

D-Panthenol 50 P Panthenol 1.00

AMP Ultra PC 2000 (Angus) 2-Amino-2-Methyl-1-Propanol 0.30

Water Aqua 28.00

C. Cremophor® CO 40 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.40

Fragrance Lisa Perfume 0.10

Euxyl PE 9010 (Schülke & Mayr) Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin 0.50

Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, sp. 7, 20 rpm)

pH

29 Pas

6.8

Stiffness* (setting/hold performance)

Polymer content: 5.8% including 5% styling polymer

281 ± 29 cN

* Stiffness test on 10 flat hair strands at 4 different positions at 20°C and 65% R.H.

Page 24: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Wet Gel with XXL Hold

HB-DE-12-049-5

24

Ingredients INCI %

A. Luvigel® FIT (30% a.s.) Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer 3.22

Water Aqua 44.66

B. Luviset® Clear (20% a.s.) VP/Methacrylate/Vinylimidazole Copolymer 15.00

1,2-Propylene Glycol Care Propylene Glycol 5.00

AMP Ultra PC 2000 (Angus) 2-Amino-2-Methyl-1-Propanol 0.35

Water Aqua 30.87

C. Cremophor® CO 40 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.30

Fragrance Lisa Perfume 0.10

Euxyl PE 9010 (Schülke & Mayr) Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin 0.50

Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, sp. 7, 20 rpm)

pH

44 Pas

6.9

Stiffness* (setting/hold performance)

Polymer content: 4% including 3% styling polymer

206 ± 24 cN

* Stiffness test on 10 flat hair strands at 4 different positions at 20°C and 65% R.H.

Page 25: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Power Hold Hair Gel

HB-DE-12-049-6

25

Ingredients INCI %

A. Luvigel® FIT (30% a.s.) Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer 3.00

Water Aqua 40.00

B. Luviskol® K 90 solution (20% a.s.) PVP 15.00

1,2-Propylene Glycol Care Propylene Glycol 2.00

D-Panthenol 50 P Panthenol 1.00

Ethanol Alcohol 10.00

APM Ultra PC 2000 (Angus) 2-Amino-2-Methyl-1-Propanol 0.35

Water Aqua 27.65

C. Cremophor® CO 40 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.40

Fragrance Lisa Perfume 0.10

Euxyl PE 9010 (Schülke & Mayr) Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin 0.50

Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, sp. 7, 20 rpm)

pH

24 Pas

7.3

Stiffness* (setting/hold performance)

Polymer content: 3.9% including 3% styling polymer

144 ± 18 cN

* Stiffness test on 10 flat hair strands at 4 different positions at 20°C and 65% R.H.

Page 26: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Disclaimer

26

This document, or any answers or information provided herein by BASF, does not constitute a legally binding

obligation of BASF. While the descriptions, designs, data and information contained herein are presented in

good faith and believed to be accurate, it is provided for your guidance only. Because many factors may

affect processing or application/use, we recommend that you make tests to determine the suitability of a

product for your particular purpose prior to use. It does not relieve our customers from the obligation to

perform a full inspection of the products upon delivery or any other obligation.

NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF

MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, ARE MADE REGARDING

PRODUCTS DESCRIBED OR DESIGNS, DATA OR INFORMATION SET FORTH, OR THAT THE

PRODUCTS, DESIGNS, DATA OR INFORMATION MAY BE USED WITHOUT INFRINGING THE

INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS OF OTHERS. IN NO CASE SHALL THE DESCRIPTIONS,

INFORMATION, DATA OR DESIGNS PROVIDED BE CONSIDERED A PART OF OUR TERMS AND

CONDITIONS OF SALE.

Page 27: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients
Page 28: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Luvigel® FIT Summary

Luvigel® FIT is a liquid thickener tailor-made for strong setting

in hair styling gels

Advantage over Carbomer-thickeners:

- higher setting with many styling polymers PVP, VP/VA copolymer, Luviset

Clear, Luviquat Supreme and Luviset CA66

- does not run on hands upon application

- brilliant clear gels

Advantage over Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer:

- optimized thickening performance

- less foaming on hair

Suitability for other applications is still under investigation, e.g.

- thickening in hair colorants

- skin care emulsions

Page 29: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Luvigel® FIT Standard specifications

INCI: Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer

29

Test parameter Requirement Method

Solids content 29-32 g/100g PM/01739/01

Acid value (as is) 85 – 105 mg KOH/g Ph.Eur. 7. Edition

pH-value (as is) 2.0 – 3.5 Ph.Eur. 7. Edition, 2.2.3

Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, Sp. 1, 100 rpm) 5 - 30 mPas PM/00744/04

Ethylacrylate (GC) Max. 1 ppm PM/01732/01

Methacrylic acid (LC) Max. 10 ppm PM/00725/04

Luvigel® FIT

Page 30: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Curl retention =

L = Hair length (15.5 cm)

L0 = Initial hair length

Lt = Hair length after 5 h at 90% R.H.

L - Lt

L - L0

Curl Retention Method

30

Page 31: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Comparison of market gels INCI-names

Gel Nr.

Name of

Market Gel

Thickener

Ingredients

Styling

Polymer

Ingredients

Clarity (100 ml)

Viskosity

(mPas)

(100 ml)

pH

value

Gel Structure

Note 1-3

Gel

Texture

Curl

Retention

(%)

Stiffness Test(cN)

Flat Strand

Transmission

(%) (600nm)

Clarity on

Glass Plate

1

Garnier Fructis Style

Igel Look

Ultra Stark 4

Carbomer

VP/VA Copolymer

almost

clear

Sp.7

75200

7

1-2

creamy

24

77 ± 15

95%Confidence interval: ± 5

94

clear

2

Schwarzkopf Taft

Ultimativ Styling Gel

Mega Stark 5

TEA Carbomer

VP/VA Copolymer

PVP.

VP/Meathacrylamide/

Vinyl Imidazole

Copolymer

lila

almost clear

Sp.7

32200

5

1-2

creamy

22

104 ± 19

95%Confidence interval: ± 6

3

Beiersdorf

Nivea for Men

Style freeze

Ultimativ 7

Acrylates/

C10-30 Alkyl

Acrylate

Crosspolymer

Acrylates/Hydroxy

esters Acrylates

Copolymer.

PVP.

Styrene/Acrylates

Copolymer

white

Sp.6

26400

7

2

creamy

99

127 ± 18

95%Confidence interval: ± 6

-----

white

4

Garnier Fructis Style

Unverwüstliches Gel

Ultimativ 6

Acrylates/

steareth-20

Methacrylate

Copolymer

Polyester-5

slightly

turbid

Sp.6

6900

7

1

aqueous

65

137 ± 25

95%Confidence interval: ± 8

82

clear

5

L‘Oreal Studio Line

Unzerstörbar

Mega Starker Halt 6

Carbomer

AMP-Acrylates/ Allyl

Methacrylate.

Hydroxypropyl Guar

slightly

turbid

Sp.7

27400

7

1

creamy

94

176 ± 19

95%Confidence interval: ± 11

88

clear

6

Schwarzkopf Taft

Power Elastic Gel

Mega Stark 5

Acrylates/stear

eth-20

Methacrylate

Copolymer

Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/

Butylaminoethyl/Methacrylate

Copolymer.

Acrylates/stearyl

Acrylate/ethylamine Oxide

Methacrylate Copolymer

slightly

turbid

Sp.6

24750

7

1-2

creamy

97

204 ± 33

95%Confidence interval: ± 10

87

clear

Page 32: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Comparison of market gels Trade names

Gel Nr.

Name of

Market Gel

Thickener

Ingredients

Styling

Polymer

Ingredients

Clarity (100 ml)

Viskosity

(mPas)

(100 ml)

pH

value

Gel Structure

Note 1-3

Gel

Texture

Curl

Retention

(%)

Stiffness Test(cN)

Flat Strand

Transmission

(%) (600nm)

Clarity on

Glass Plate

1

Garnier Fructis Style

Igel Look

Ultra Stark 4

Carbopol®

Luviskol® VA 64

almost

clear

Sp.7

75200

7

1-2

creamy

24

77 ± 15

95%Confidence interval: ± 5

94

clear

2

Schwarzkopf Taft

Ultimativ Styling Gel

Mega Stark 5

Carbopol®

Luviskol® VA 64

Luviset® Clear

lila

almost clear

Sp.7

32200

5

1-2

creamy

22

104 ± 19

95%Confidence interval: ± 6

3

Beiersdorf

Nivea for Men

Style freeze

Ultimativ 7

Carbopol

Ultrez® 21

Acudyn® 180

PVP

Styrene/Acrylates

Copolymer

(opacifier)

white

Sp.6

26400

7

2

creamy

99

127 ± 18

95%Confidence interval: ± 6

-----

white

4

Garnier Fructis Style

Unverwüstliches Gel

Ultimativ 6

Aculyn® 22

Eastman® AQ

Polymer

slightly

turbid

Sp.6

6900

7

1

aqueous

65

137 ± 25

95%Confidence interval: ± 8

82

clear

5

L‘Oreal Studio Line

Unzerstörbar

Mega Starker Halt 6

Carbopol®

Fixate® G100

Jaguar HP

slightly

turbid

Sp.7

27400

7

1

creamy

94

176 ± 19

95%Confidence interval: ± 11

88

clear

6

Schwarzkopf Taft

Power Elastic Gel

Mega Stark 5

Aculyn®22

Amphomer®

Diaformer® Z..

slightly

turbid

Sp.6

24750

7

1-2

creamy

97

204 ± 33

95%Confidence interval: ± 10

87

clear

Page 33: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Half side tests on model heads

Gels with 0,9% Luvigel® Fit + 3% Luviskol® K90 + 0,5% Luviquat® Supreme

is better / equal / worse compared to market gel 6

Tackiness during application

Spreadability

Even distribution

Setting effect

Tack after drying

Combability

Flaking after combing

Feel of the Hair

Wash out

Gels with Luvigel® FIT meets properties of the best performing market gel benchmarks

Page 34: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Gel with 0,85% Luvigel® Fit + 3% Luviset® Clear is

better /equal/ worse compared to market gel 6

Tackiness during application

Spreadability

Even distribution

Setting effect

Tack after drying

Combability

Flaking after combing

Feel of the Hair

Wash out

Half side tests on model heads

Gels with Luvigel® FIT meets properties of the best performing market gel benchmarks

Page 35: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Gels with Luvigel® FIT Viscosity as function of pH value

0

10000

20000

30000

40000

50000

60000

70000

80000

3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

Vis

co

sit

y (m

Pas)

Viscosity as function of pH-value

Luvigel FIT 1.0% Carbomer 0.5% Acrylates Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer 1.0%

(% active content; 30-50 Pas Brookfield viscosity)

Water-based gels with 0.50 % preservative Euxyl® PE9010, 0.40 % solubilizer Cremophor® CO 40, 0.10 % perfume “Lisa/Drom” ; neutralized with 2-Amino-2-methyl-1-propanol

Page 36: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Gels with Luvigel® FIT Viscosity as function of pH value after neutralization with 2-Amino-1-

methylpropanol (AMP), Triethanolamine (TEA) and NaOH Formulation EB3/201/2 with 0.85 % Luvigel® FIT and 3.0 % Luviset® Clear)

Viscosity as function of pH-value

0

10000

20000

30000

40000

50000

60000

5 5,5 6 6,5 7 7,5 8

AMP TEA NaOH

visc

osi

ty [

mP

a*s]

pH-value

Water-based gels with 0.50 % preservative Euxyl® PE9010, 0.40 % solubilizer Cremophor® CO 40, 0.10 % perfume “Lisa/Drom” ;

Page 37: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Gels with Luvigel® FIT Viscosity as function of pH value after neutralization with 2-Amino-1-

methylpropanol (AMP), Triethanolamine (TEA) and NaOH Formulation EB3/201/1 with 0.80 % Luvigel® FIT and 3.0 % Luviskol® K90)

Viscosity as function of pH-value

0

10000

20000

30000

40000

50000

60000

70000

5 5,5 6 6,5 7 7,5 8

AMP TEA NaOH

visc

osi

ty [

mP

a*s]

pH-value

Water-based gels with 0.50 % preservative Euxyl® PE9010, 0.40 % solubilizer Cremophor® CO 40, 0.10 % perfume “Lisa/Drom” ;

Page 38: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

2-point stiffness test on flat hair strands

STIFFNESS

Comparison of formulations with

Luviset®CA66 and Luviskol®K90

0 50 100 150 200

cN

40 measurements (4 times on 10 hair strands, standard deviation)

1.5 % Luvigel® FIT 1.5 % Luviset® CA66 1.5 % Luviskol® K 90

1.0 % Carbomer 1.5 % Luviset® CA66 1.5 % Luviskol® K 90

1.5 % Acrylates/Steareth-20

Methacrylate Copolymer 1.5 % Luviset® CA66 1.5 % Luviskol® K 90

Page 39: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Rheology of market gels

1E-1

1E+0

1E+1

1E+2

1E+3

1E+4

1E+5

1E+6

1E-1 1E+0 1E+1 1E+2 1E+3

shear stress [Pa]

(l) v

isco

sity

[Pa·

s]

Garnier Fructis Style, Igel Look

Garnier Fructis Style, unverwüstliches Gel

Garnier Fructis Style, Camouflage

Shear stress controlled rotation viscosimeter Physika MCR301 Plate-plate geometrie: 25mm ; distance: 1mm

Page 40: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Rheology of market gels

1E-1

1E+0

1E+1

1E+2

1E+3

1E+4

1E+5

1E+6

1E-1 1E+0 1E+1 1E+2 1E+3

shear stress [Pa]

(l)

visc

osi

ty [

Pa·

s]

Beiersdorf Nivea for Men, Style freeze

Lóreal Studio Line, Unzerstörbar

Vivelle Dop Lascad, Creer et Fixer

Shear stress controlled rotation viscosimeter Physika MCR301 Plate-plate geometrie: 25mm ; distance: 1mm

Page 41: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Rheology of market gels

1E-1

1E+0

1E+1

1E+2

1E+3

1E+4

1E+5

1E+6

1E-1 1E+0 1E+1 1E+2 1E+3

shear stress [Pa]

(l)

visc

osi

ty [

Pa·

s]

Schwarzkopf Taft, Ultimativ Styling Gel

Schwarzkopf Taft, Power Elastic Gel

Schwarzkopf Taft, Power Gel Maxx Power

Shear stress controlled rotation viscosimeter Physika MCR301 Plate-plate geometrie: 25mm ; distance: 1mm

Page 42: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Rheology of gels with Luvigel® FIT

1E+0

1E+1

1E+2

1E+3

1E+4

1E+5

1E+6

1E-1 1E+0 1E+1 1E+2 1E+3

shear stress [Pa]

(l)

visc

osi

ty [

Pa·

s]

0.8% Luvigel FIT + 3.0% Luviskol K90

1.2% Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer + 2,6% Luviskol K900.4% Carbomer + 3.4% Luviskol K90

0.5% Rheocare C Plus + 3.55% Luviskol K90

Shear stress controlled rotation viscosimeter Physika MCR301 Plate-plate geometrie: 25mm ; distance: 1mm

Page 43: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Rheology of gels with Luvigel® FIT

1E+0

1E+1

1E+2

1E+3

1E+4

1E+5

1E+6

1E-1 1E+0 1E+1 1E+2 1E+3

shear stress [Pa]

(l)

visc

osi

ty [

Pa·

s]

0.85% Luvigel FIT + 3.0% Luviset Clear

1.0% Acrylates/Steareth-20 MethacrylateCopolymer + 2.85% Luviset Clear0.6% Carbomer + 3.25% Luviset Clear

0.4% Rheocare C Plus + 3.45% Luviset Clear

Shear stress controlled rotation viscosimeter Physika MCR301 Plate-plate geometrie: 25mm ; distance: 1mm

Page 44: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Rheology of gels with Luvigel® FIT

1E+0

1E+1

1E+2

1E+3

1E+4

1E+5

1E+6

1E-1 1E+0 1E+1 1E+2 1E+3

shear stress [Pa]

(l)

visc

osi

ty [

Pa·

s]

0.9% Luvigel FIT + 3.0% Luviskol K90 + 0.5% Luviquat Supreme

1.1% Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer + 2.8%Luviskol K90 + 0.5% Luviquat Supreme0.5% Carbomer + 3.4% Luviskol K90 + 0.5% Luviquat Supreme

0.4% Rheocare C Plus + 3.5% Luviskol K90 + 0.5% Luviquat Supreme

Shear stress controlled rotation viscosimeter Physika MCR301 Plate-plate geometrie: 25mm ; distance: 1mm

Page 45: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Rheology of gels with Luvigel® FIT

1E+0

1E+1

1E+2

1E+3

1E+4

1E+5

1E+6

1E-1 1E+0 1E+1 1E+2 1E+3

shear stress [Pa]

(l)

visc

osi

ty [

Pa·

s]

1.0% Luvigel FIT + 3.0% Luviset Clear + 0.5% Luviquat Supreme

1.2% Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer + 2.8%Luviset Clear + 0.5% Luviquat Supreme

0.8% Carbomer + 3.2% Luviset Clear + 0.5% Luviquat Supreme

0,4% Rheocare C Plus + 3,6% Luviset Clear + 0,5% LuviquatSupreme

Shear stress controlled rotation viscosimeter Physika MCR301 Plate-plate geometrie: 25mm ; distance: 1mm

Page 46: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Gels with Luvigel® FIT (GK2991/236) and Luviskol 90

UV-Stability in comparison with gels based on Carbopol 980

and Aculyn 22 all polymer concentrations as active matter

UV-stability of gels

0

10000

20000

30000

40000

50000

60000

70000

80000

90000

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

duration of spectral irradiance in hours in Suntester „Atlas Suntest CPS“ at 765W/m²

visc

osi

ty [

mP

as]

0.5% Carbopol980 (Carbomer) + 3.0% Luviskol K90

1.0% Aculyn 22 (Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer) + 2,5% Luviskol K90 1% Luvigel FIT (GK2991/236) + 2.5% Luviskol K90

Page 47: Dr. Peter Hössel Global Development Personal Care Ingredients

Gels with 1.0 % Luvigel® FIT (GK2991/236) and

2.5 % Luviskol K90 with EDETA BD (INCI: Disodium EDTA) UV-Stability of different formulations all polymer concentrations as active matter

0

10000

20000

30000

40000

50000

60000

70000

80000

90000

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

UV-stability of gels

without EDETA BD

with 0.05% EDETA BD

with 0.10% EDETA BD

vis

co

sity

[mP

as]