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STEP TWO: solder the resistors
R3: 860 ohms(Grey-Blue-
BROWN)
R1: 1K (BROWN-
BLACK-RED)
R2: 10k(BROWN-BLACK-
ORANGE) Do the capacitors next. The 47uf caps are polarized so match the + sides to the marking on the pcb.
c4: 47uF C5: 47uF
Your words here...
C1,C2:.1uF Blue
caps
Solder the 16 MHZ resonator (X1); IT's a small brownish
organge (or blue) bulb with three prongs
NEXT ADD the 10uF (C3) capacitor. Make sure the positive side matches the
marking on the board
solder in the volume trimpot.
We'll add the plastic wheel
later.
STEP ONE: NORMALLY you'd wait until the end to put the microcontroller in the socket, but it's a little tricky
when all the parts are on the board, so LET's do that first. You'll need to
bend the pins inward a little.
The byteseeker is an arduino variant that can generate 8-bit (Low fi) music. the version we're building today is a bytebeat player; see moderndevice.com for more background.
The regulator
(VREG) takes the 9v input
and regulates it
down to a nice even 5v.
Before you solder on the power jack or pots, attach the battery jack to the two holes marked Vin
from the back. connect red to the + side, black to ground.
Solder the two blue pots. they should go in with two pins on top and one in the
bottom (see detail)
Solder the audio jack. the best way is to tack down one pin with a bit of solder on the tip of your iron, then solder
the other pins.
NEXT, add the two switches and the power
jack.
finally, attach the
thumbwheel to the volume knob.
You'll need an ftdi cable or a usb-bub (or ftdi friend) to program the micro controller using
the programming header. use the uno boot loader in the arduino ide.
At some point this LED was ADDED...