8/10/2019 Dhaulagiri 5lima

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/dhaulagiri-5lima 1/3

Dhaulagiri (5)

Climbing history[edit] 

  1954 –

 J. O. M. Roberts and Ang Nyima Sherpa climb Putha Hiunchuli, first major summit

ascent in the range.[22]

 

  1955  – Dh.II attempted by J. O. M Roberts and other s[23]

 

  1959

1. Pre-monsoon[24]

 and post-monsoon[25]

 reconnaissances of Dh.II by Japanese expeditions.

2. Hangde 6556m in Mukut section attempted.[26] 

  1962

1. Churen attempt from north by Japanese Nihon University expedition. Climbed Hangde

(~6600m), Tongu (~6250m), P6265 during approach/acclimation through Hidden Valley;

also Kantokal (~6500m) north of Putha Hiunchili.[27]

 

2. Churen and Dh.VI attempt from south by J. O. M. Roberts, thinking he was on Dh.IV due to

inaccurate maps. Climbed a lower peak (6,529m) near Gurja, naming itGhustang  after the

stream draining the cirque they climbed in.[28]

 

  1963

1. Dh.II attempt by Austrian expedition, reaching 7,000m[29] 

2. Dh.III attempt[30]

 

  1965

8/10/2019 Dhaulagiri 5lima

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/dhaulagiri-5lima 2/3

1. Japanese expedition to Dh.II delayed two months by heavy snow in approach passes. Lost

two porters to avalanche, then another porter was injured in a fall and needed evacuation.

This left too little food to continue.[31]

 

2. J. O. M. Roberts leads British R.A.F. expedition to Dh.VI, still believing it was Dh.IV.

Defeated by late monsoon, then early winter storms creating excessive avalanche risk .[32] 

  1969

1. Dh.IV attempt by Austrian Alpine Club. Five Austrians and one Nepali disappear, may have

summited.[33]

 

2. Gurja climbed by Japanese expedition.[34]

 

3. First authorized  ascents of Tukuche 6920m and Tukuche West 6800m.[35]

 

  1970

1. Japan's Kansai Mountaineering Club unsuccessful on Dh.IV in April but climbed Dh.VI[36] and

False Junction Peak.[37]

 

2. Korean expedition claims they summited Churen East on April 29. Questioned by same year

Japanese expedition, see next.

3. Japanese expedition climbs Churen Central and Churen West on October 24.[38]

 

  1971

1. First ascent of Dh.II on May 18 by German expedition.[39]

 

2. Dh.IV attempt[40]

 

3. Dh.V attempted by pre- and post-monsoon Japanese expeditions. Both ended by fatal

accidents.[41]

 

  1972  – Dh.IV attempted twice by Japanese expeditions. First attempt abandoned when a

climber fell ill and died at 6200m. Second expedition climbed via crest from west, found route too

long at high elevation (7,000m+). Climbed Dh.VI and Junction Peak.[42] 

  1973

1. first ascent of Dh.III on October 20 by German expedition.[43]

 

2. Dh.IV attempted by Austrians who reached 7250m on N face, then by British who quit after

two deaths.[44] 

8/10/2019 Dhaulagiri 5lima

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/dhaulagiri-5lima 3/3

  1974

1. Dh.IV attempt by British R.A.F. expedition abandoned after three Sherpas killed by falling

ice.[45] 

2. In Mukut section: ascents of Parbat Rinchen 6200m, Parbat Talpari 6248m, West

Himparkhal 6248m, East Himparkhal 6227m, Tashi Kang III 6157m[46]

 

  1975

1. Dh.IV climbed May 9 by S. Kawazu and E. Yusuda, who died on descent, bringing death toll

on Dh.IV to 14. (Compared with 13 deaths on Mount Everest before it was successfully

climbed in 1953.) Another Japanese expedition in October puts ten on summit without loss

of life.[47]

 

2. Dh.V climbed by M. Morioka and Pembu Tsering Sherpa on Japanese expedition.[48] 

  1979  – Japanese traverse Dh.II, III and V along 7,150m+ crest. Expedition led by a woman.[49]

 

  2013 First ascent of Hiunchuli Patan (known locally as Sisne or Murkatta Himal). Nepalese

expedition led by Man Bahadur Khatri.[50]