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8/4/2019 Destination Bali6 3
1/5
DestinationBy Andrea & Antonella Ferrari
Weve just returned rom two weekso incredible diving in Bali, where
AquaMarine Diving - Bali planned an
entertaining and varied dive saari or
us. We travelled in a comortable, air-
conditioned minibus that had space
or all our scuba gear, cameras, dive
books and plenty o cold drinks, and
we were accompanied by a jolly driver
and a seasoned dive guide. Heres our
trip diary:
A n guaan anng a h ga
n h unl Hnu pl -
ng h un aun Ubu
Dive Safar i i n the Is land of t he God
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From NusaPenida toSecret BayFrom NUsA PeNidAto secret BAy
On the rst day, we travelled rom our
hotel to the beach o Padangbai. There,
we hopped on a boat with our guide
Ketut to get our rst sighting oMola
mola in the cool waters o Crystal
Bay at Nusa Penida. At the right time
o year, Mola mola also known as
oceanic sunsh can be ound at a
ew spots o the island o Nusa Penida,
where they visit cleaning stations
maintained by resident bannersh.
Down deep, we encountered strong
currents and chilly 17C water, but
it didnt deter us. We had a priceless
rendezvous with three gentle oceanic
giants. Mola mola arent easy photo
subjects, and the diving conditions
werent ideal, but these unique
sh were truly a sight to behold.
Ater Nusa Penida, we headed north
along the picture-perect coast to
Secret Bay, one o the best muck diving
destinations in Bali. Our three dives
there with a break or a delicio us
mee goreng lunch on the beach
brought us ngered dragonets,
thorny seahorses, hairy rogsh and
even bobbit worms (in three inches o
water)! Still, we couldnt help but eel
that Secret Bay has been over-dived
recently, perhaps causing some o the
more interesting denizens to move
elsewhere (temporarily, we hope). Little
did we imagine what wonders awaited
us at our next stop the mysterious
black-sand slopes o Puri Jati.
A n bbal qu (Euprymna sp.)
n s Ba
th paula Lb W n
tulabn a v n b
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Dark Wonders
Three distinct species o the
oceanic sunsh are presently
recognised within the amily
Molidae, all belonging to the order
Tetraodontiformes, the same as
triggersh, boxsh, puersh and
porcupinesh. Mola mola, the
oceanic sunsh proper, can reach
a weight o more than two tonnes
and a height o about three metres,
despite eeding exclusively on
gelatinous zooplankton. Females
produce up to 300 million eggs in
a single ovary the largest-everrecorded number o eggs in a single
vertebrate.
These gentle blue-grey, disc-
shaped giants are occasionally
encountered in temperate or cold
waters worldwide, oten close to the
dArk WoNdersHappily settled in the elegant and
rened settings o Balis Zen Resort, one
o the most serene and beautiul resorts
weve ever seen, we quickly geared up
on the long, deserted black-sand beach
to enter the quiet waters o Puri Jati.
The at or at most gently sloping
black-sand bottom, decidedly mucky
in stretches and dotted with small
thumbnail-sized white coral colonies,
was alive with hundreds o brightly
coloured and surprisingly obliging sand
divers, while scores o minuscule veined
octopus peered rom empty shells or
rom under the sand itsel.
We took our time and were rewarded
with the sight o a rare slender seamoth,
several moray eels, crocodile eels, two
Ambon scorpionsh, at least one long-
armed octopus, a ew blackn lionsh,
a pair o courting mimic oc topus (that
mated in ront o us!), several rogsh,
robust ghost pipesh, cockatoo waspsh
and even a gorgeous blue-ring octopus
inside a discarded wallet.
surace, but they are reliably sighted
o the island o Nusa Penida in Bali
rom August to October, when they
visit the steep walls o Crystal Bay in
numbers.
They can be approached while
being cleaned by bannersh and
the occasional adult emperor
angelsh. Divers who want to get
really close have to move slowly
and cautiously, as sunsh are
easily spooked. Despite what most
brochures say, Crystal Bay is not orbeginners. Besides diving in cold
conditions, the currents are strong
and requent. Weve experienced
several washing machines and
downcurrents that may have put
less experienced divers and their
dive guides in trouble.
Diving
withMolas
th n Bal vng a hug an
unfh (Mola mola) n h -l wa
cal Ba a Nua Pna
a. Unqu nun n Pu Ja: h f-v
un ang pu
(Thaumoctopus mimicus)!
b. A a nun n Pu Ja: h ln
ah (Pegasus volitans)
. Qu , fn lgan n h bauul
Zn r n nhn Bal
. A n blu-ng pu (Hapalochlaena
lunulata) un n a wall (!) whl
vng a Pu Ja
a.
b.
c.
d.
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4/5
SpectacularSerayaSecrets
All employees and shareholder s o have chosen we abstain rom consuming sharkn.
saY no to shaRK Fin
JeNNy W. y. LeeResort Manager
With its verdant terraced rice paddies,
rolling hills and towering volcanoes,
Bali is an incredibly scenic island. The
countryside is dotted with beautiully
ornamented temples, and visitors are
welcome to witness ceremonies i they
ollow some simple rules and good
manners. Balinese are warm, riendly
and spiritually rich; their ancient
Hindu culture nestles harmoniously in
predominantly Muslim Indonesia.
Similarly, Balis underwater landscape
oers great diversity rom clear
Our night dive was ruitul too
several species o white-aced
waspsh, ying gurnards, cockatoo
sole, and numerous weird-looking
shrimp species, some o which weve
never seen or photographed beore.
In short, Puri Jati is a must i youre
diving in Bali, both or its bonanza o
uncommon underwater subjects and
the loveliness o Zen Resort, a place
perect or recharging batteries both
your strobes and your spiritual ones!
sPectAcULArserAyA secretsIt was difcult to leave Puri Jati, but
our next stop was by no means less
interesting. Staying or a couple o
days at Mimpi Dive Resort, we had the
opportunity to dive the amed Liberty
Wreck in Tulamben and the nearby black-
sand slopes o Seraya Secrets. Both are
simply amazing!
The wreck, dating back to World
War II, is huge and easily accessible.
Its spectacularly estooned in pink
gorgonians and colourul sot corals,
boasting an enormous amount o
resident sh lie and thereore oering
exceptional photo opportunities
D i v e s a F a R i soceanic walls and exceptionally
colourul coral gardens to mysterious,
shallow muck dives. Enter the concept
o a Dive Saari. The idea is simple but
brilliant the local dive operator
works out an itinerary that best suits
your needs and time schedule, then
books hotels and boats in advance,
provides you with an experienced dive
guide, a driver and an air-conditioned
minibus.
This way, you experience the absolute
best Bali has to o er without having to
worry about coordinating everything
yoursel checking rates and
services o numerous dive shops, boat
availability, hotels, timetables and so
on. Its a simple idea, and it works!
th a pa fl Bal a
nwn wlw a an n bl
h bauul innan lan.
a. th a h all, un
n saa s, h lvl
g hp (Phyllognathia
ceratophtalmus)
b. Anh vw h bauul
an al abl Lb
W n tulabn
. t h a pbbl bah
saa wh luul
fhng ba.
a.
b.c.
or wide-angle enthusiasts. Just
remember to dive there as early as
possible (likeseven in the morning)
to avoid the crowds o day-trippers
rom Kuta and to get more than one
dive in. Entry is through the sur rom
the pebbly beach, but dont worry, all
8/4/2019 Destination Bali6 3
5/5
June - October
Bali - Komodo
November - April
Thailand & Burma
Similans - Richelieu Ro
Mergui Archipelago
October - April
Similans - Richelieu Ro
Phi Phi Islands - Hin Da
44 45
your gear will be carried or you in act
youll be amazed at how strong so me
o the local lady porters are, carrying
tanks and piling BCDs on their head,
yet walking ever so graceully on the
pebbled beach!
Sharing the same entrance style rom
a rough pebbly beach Seraya Secrets
has black sand, ne silt and a ew anaemic
coral heads, but oh boy what a site! In the
rst ten minutes, we were treated to our
harlequin shrimp busy eeding on sea
stars, an endemic butterysh wed never
beore seen, several cute shrimp gobies,
lots o boxer crabs hiding among pebbles,
a couple o rare wrasses, lots o lionsh,
the endemic-to-Bali and spectacular
volcano triplen (a male with attending
emale harem), and other goodies such as
nudibranchs, seahorses and juvenile sh.
The icing on the cake was a pair o glorious
tiger shrimp posing on a white sponge.
We moved on to Candidasa to stay at
the Water Garden Resort or the last part
o our trip. At Blue Lagoon, we ound
imprints o wobbegong sharks in the sand
under the coral ledges, but much to our
disappointment, we didnt see the actual
sharks. Then it was back to Nusa Penida
or more encounters with Mola mola.
We spent our nal day sightseeing
around Ubud, a scenic and culturally
rich town nestled in the hills. We stayed
at Champlung Sari Hotel, set in the lush
countryside near some beautiully ornate
Hindu temples.
It was a wonderul trip to a truly amazing
island, which as the clich goes, has
something or everyone: riendly people,
great ood, rich culture, works o art, and
breathtaking scenery.
From tHe AUtHorswww.reefwonders.net
Weve allen in love with Bali s beauty,
the richness o its culture, and the
sweetness and kindness o its people.
The diving is wonderul rare species
and something or everybody. Its a
destination not to be missed!
Andrea & AntonellaFerrari
sPeciAL tHANks to the ollowing parties or theirassistance in preparing this eature: Singapore Airlines,
AquaMarine Diving - Bali, Poppies Cottages, Zen Resor t,
Mimpi Resort, The Water Garden, and Champlung Sari
Hotel. And to our guide Ketut and to our good riend Alan
J.Powderham or diving with us!
a. r-pha wa lnfh (Dendrochirus
brachypterus) n a llw png a
saa s
b. A n n saa
s whh qu a lwh
h luul halqun hp
(Hymenocera elegans). A nh n n saa
s a all al bx ab
(Lybia tessellata) ang gg
. A bla-a hp gb (Stonogobiops
nematodes) png u buw a
saa s
Many major airlines y to Bali rom international
gateways. Awair, Garuda Indonesia, Mark Air and
Merpati all run domestic services.
Tropical climate, with diving possible all year
round. The preerred season alls between May
and November. Although the water temperature
is generally warm it can become chilly. A 3mm to
5mm exposure suit should sufce.
For most countries, visas are issued on arrival at
Denpasar airport. The ee is currently US$25. There
is also a departure tax, payable only in the local
currency, currently Rp100,000 or international
departures and Rp20,000 or domestic.
Domestic GSM network and international roaming.
Internet access widely available.
230V, 50Hz.
Indonesian Rupiah. US$ also accepted in
some situations. Although the majority o the
Balinese people do not expect to receive a tip,
it is considered courteous to round up bills orappreciated services to the nearest Rp5,000.
Generally considered malaria-ree. Mosquito
repellent to keep biting insects away might be a
good idea.
GMT + 8 hrs
IN
DONESIA
KUTA
GILIMANUK
LOVINA
TULAMBEN
PADANGBAI
CANDIDASA
DENPASAR
NUSA PENIDA
UBUD
a.
b.
c.
d.
PLUGs
JA
N
FE
B
MA
R
AP
R
MA
Y
JU
N
JU
L
AU
G
SE
P
OC
T
NO
V
DE
C
25c
20c
15c
30c
20
0
40
10
30
JA
N
FE
B
MA
R
AP
R
MA
Y
JU
N
JU
L
AU
G
SE
P
OC
T
NO
V
DE
C
Fact File
AVG rAiNFALL (cm)AVG temP
http://www.mermaid-liveaboards.com/http://www.mermaid-liveaboards.com/http://www.mermaid-liveaboards.com/http://www.mermaid-liveaboards.com/http://www.mermaid-liveaboards.com/http://www.mermaid-liveaboards.com/http://www.mermaid-liveaboards.com/http://www.mermaid-liveaboards.com/http://www.mermaid-liveaboards.com/http://www.reefwonders.net/http://www.reefwonders.net/http://www.finsonline.com/http://www.finsonline.com/http://www.mermaid-liveaboards.com/