Winter issue 2014-15

désir

Cherkevich Maria,editor-in-chief,

desirmagazinerussia@gmail.com

EDITOR’S LETTERThe Fall/Winter seasons are often based on the darker colour palette,

allowing the spring collection to arrive in a burst of white, pastels and bright colours. But not this season. Ultra-soft textural pieces of all shades of white dominated the FW14 runways, leaving the black no chance. Good news for those, who keep saying ‘no’ to wearing white in winter. This trend can be perfectly translated to real life: shearling jackets, nude and pastel knits and

delicate suede boots.As usual, we As usual, we reveal the ultimate gift guide for the upcoming holiday season that (we hope) will provide you with a bit of inspiration. We know, buying

gifts is a big deal.In this issue you also gonna find some hot beauty trends and tips that will make you shine brighter than the Christmas tree (but it doesn’t mean you

have to dig yourself in glitter).Stay bold and let the magic begin.

EDITOR’S CHOICEEditor’s best picks of the new season

MUST HAVE

VERSUSShearling coat

Valentino’s capsule collection

TRENDCapes, military and fur. Learninh to wear pastels and

florals in winter

From knee-high to biker boots- choosing the best pair

BEAUTY

PHOTOSHOOT

Dress like stylist Ekaterina MukhinaSTEAL THE LOOK

Choosing presents by colour

TREND

New beauty tips and tricks

GIFT GUIDE

Home Alone

INTERVIEWYoung talent Alexander Wang on his inspiration, early life and latest

collaboration with H&M

CONTENTS

Editor’s choice

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1. Coat, Alexander Wang. Simple and utilitarian: this coat was designed to carry all our everyday essentials- from a notebook to a camera. Who needs a bag after all?2. Pearl ear cuff, Sophie Blle Brahe. A simple, elegant take on a single earring.3. 3. Waistcoat, Roksanda Ilincic. This waistcoat is a true multitasker to wear as a dress or with a T-shirt anf trousers for a more casual everyday look.4. Scarf, Shrimps. A perfect way to work the faux-fur trend. Will add a bit of fun to a neutral coat.5.5. Boots, Pedro Garcia. Anrle boots are a winter staple. I buy at least one new pair every year.6. Sweater, NLST. This sweater will look great with boyfriend jeans or track pants.7. 7. Watches, Shore Projects. A final touch to the pastel winter outfit. Hope you’re not wearing total black the whole winter, right?8. 8. Culottes, Chloe. Mirror the runway look and wear them in a tonal grey palette. Perfect with a polo-neck and trainers for easy chic.9. Bag, Fendi. I’d use this bag to add color to my mostly monochrome wardrobe.

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FASHIONThe hottest fall-winter 2014/15 trends and must-have pieces.

Burberry Prorsum

Shearling coatShearling moto jacket

Emilio Pucci

Tommy Hilfiger

Paper London

Belstaff

Adam Lippes

IRO

Acne Studios

Burberry London

Chloe

TOP

To celebrate the opening of the new 5th Avenue store, the Italian fashion house has designed a special edition capsule collection of clothes and accessories all adorned with a small heart motif in the fashion house's signature red, to symbolize the designers' love for New York. The collection will be sold exclusively at the 5th Avenue store.

MUST HAVE

TREND

Cape TownWe’ve encountered the great return on the cape, a firm favourite among designers for Fall/Winter 2014. Whether it is straight from Grimm's Fairy Tales, as seen at Dolce & Gabbana to overtly military, the cape is a complete must for the new season. Designed in a variety of materials, from leather to fur and brocade to

tweed, the cape comes in a wide range of lengths and shapes too.

Hermes

Gareth Pugh Dolce & Gabbana

ValentinoSalvatore Ferragamo

This is Fur real

TRENDFendi

Michael Kors Tom Ford

PradaSaint Laurent

Whether worn as a dress (no joking) or as a coat, fur is the big winner this season. This time it comes in a variety of species: rabbit, fox, shearling and leopard to name a few. From mix and matched furs to oversize poufy coats

there’s no doubt that fur is back and is going to stay for long.

TREND

Winter BloomsWinter is in bloom. For the next cold season, in fact, flowers invade outfits of all the designers. Maybe its global warming, but we just can’t seem to get enough of Spring blooms and don’t want to let them go fot the whole winter. Printed on dresses in a variety of fabrics and embroidered on coats and trousers, winter

blooms will brighten the cold gloomy days.

Louis Vuitton

Emmanuel Ungaro Antonio Marras

Giambattista Valli Dries Van Noten

Steal the LookStepping into the spotlight of streetstyle photographers is not a big deal if you follow our recommendations.

Ekaterina Mukhina, stylist

Jeans, Current Elliott

Boots, Isabel Marant

Sweatshirt, Alexander Wang

Fur coat, DKNY

Shoulder bag, See by Chloe

TRENDbattlefieldIt's time to step in line as military hit the runway for the new season. With khaki as the dominating color, the rules of the army captured designers' attention, inspiring a fashion soldier's uniform of stricter sisilhouettes and structured looks.

Earrings,Melissa Joy Mannings

Emilio Pucci

Boots, Isabel Marant

Watches, Larsson & Jennings

Bracelet,Givenchy

Pants, Gucci

Boots, Giuseppe Zanotti

Jacket, Balmain

Dress, Band of Outsiders

Shoulder bag, Burberry

Sweater, Fendi

Pastel PrincessNot so long ago pastels were worn strictly in spring. But this season the runways were awash with many unusual shades of pastels for the time of year. There’s no better recipe for

standing out in a crowd than the season’s blush pink, baby blue, and buttercup yellow coats, dresses and sweaters. Wear pastels as total looks or as alooks or as accents on a more neutral palette.

TREND

Sweater, Marni

Jacket, Miu Miu

Dress, DKNY

Watches,Shore Project

Clutch, Bottega Veneta

Necklace,Ek Thongprasert

Trousers, Adam Lippesn

Bomber jacket, Givenchy

Hat, Duffy

Miu Miu

Boots,Chloe

Bra, Mimi Holliday by Damaris

GucciBurberry

Brian Atwood

Stuart Weitzman

Sinta

Elche

Wilmar

OVER-THE-KNEE

They’re subtly sexy and with so many heel options- from low to stilettos and more- choose your pair and wear it

day to night

TREND

TREND

STACKED HEEL

The chunky heel gives the boots a modern feel, while sleek silhouettes and hues

keep them chic/

Laurence DacadeJimmy Choo

Gucci

Tibi

KENZO

Reed Krakoff

Dolce & Gabbana

Tod’s

LUG SOLEBooties get a total cool update with sporty, chunky soles and stacked heels in rich rich mixed materials and a muted color palette

TREND

Steve Madden

See by ChloeRiver Island

Patrol

Alexander McQueen

Vicini Tapeet

Jeffrey Campbell

KENZOEvita Shellys London

COMBATTREND

Unexpected prints and accents, like chains, buckles

and studs, give a tough-yet-trendy vibe to these punk-inspired boots.

MICHAEL Michael Kors

Giuseppe ZanottiSaint Laurent

Sergio Rossi

Valentino

Alexander Wang

Miu MiuKarl Lagerfeld

Jimmy Choo

OBJECT OF DESIRE

Shoes, Dolce & Gabbana

The new SS 15 Dolce & Gabbana collection is inspired by Spain’s occupation of Sicily and as usual it celebrates the heritage style. This black jacquard pump features a captivating hinged heel which opens to reveal a sacred heart adorned with pearls and beading. We couldn’t expect less from the fashion men of genius- Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. A true masterpiece!

BEAUTY

Chanel

BEAUTY NEWS

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In 2014 Valentino presented its new fragrance - Valentina Rosa Assoluto. It is the new version of the romantic fragrance Valentina, which is being released since 2011. According to the house, "Rosa Assoluto is a new chapter in Valentina’s path to the Orient. Respect is shown to the main ingingredient—precious oriental rose, inspired by the colors of the Middle East, their high quality fragrances and precious ingredients."

02

It’s official – Karl Lagerfeld’s beloved cat, Choupette, that has over 40000 followers on Twitter, will become the face of the Shupette Collection by Karl Lagerfeld for Shu Uemura. Due to be released in October, the collection will include furry false eyelashes,

eyeshadows, lip glosses and everything else a girl might need.might need.

This year, Givenchy decided to go a little non-conventional for its holiday collection – ignoring the red, gold and glamorous look –

for a darker palette.The The Folie de Noirs collection includes a spectacular palette for the eyes, featuring nine shimmering shades, blue mascara, two nail polishes and absolutely gorgeous black

shimmering lipstick.

Making the most of the classic colours of the season, Burberry Beauty has released its new collection full of golden glows and rich reds. The brand introduced the new product - base called 'Fresh Glow Fluid' that will ensure your make up holds until the morning. Two lipsticks,

complimenting nail polishes, cream eye shadows will ad up to youe peerfect festive look.

BEAUTY NEWS

M.A.C Cosmetics have announced another creative collaboration – this time with Nasty Gal founder Sophia Amoruso. The 'Nasty Gal' will create a four-piece colour capsule collection for the cosmetics giant, that will feature three lipstick hues - dark purple and two red variations. The collection will be available online and at

select stores starting from December 4.

05

After the last Moschino collection created by Jeremy Scott, we were expecting anything from his first fragrance - a smell of french fries or hamburgers. However, the debute fragrance entitled Stars turned out to be quite feminine. With top notes of peopeony and rose topped with juicy

citron granita, the floral scents further unfold with lilly-of-the-valley, orange flower and jasmine in the heart.

06Chanel has recently released three new shades of nail colour. The

Chanel Les Rouges Culte collection is a re-release of three red polishes from Chanel's beauty archives and features statement hues from 1980, 1981 and 1987. The shades are limlimited edition and will be available from November 3 at all Chanel beauty

counters.

07Yves Saint Laurent 'Forever Youth Liberator' Serum contains the highest concentration of GlycanActif to stimulate regeneration deep within the skin and to

boost youth-promoting functions. It transforms the appearance of the skin , so it looks more luminous and soft. After one week, skin week, skin feels more moisturized and supple. Ideal for the cold winter days.

08

BEAUTY TRENDS

Like a boyWWe already got used to wearing oversized men-like coats, jeans and sweaters. Now it’s time to look like a man- minimum make-up and short hair cut. If you’re not ready to get rid of your long waves, use the trick from

Alexander Wang’s runway show.

Heavy metalsMetaMetallic shades will always be big for party

season. It was seen on the catwalks of Badgley Mischka and Dsquared2. But how to get glitter off when the party's over? Wrap in acetone soaked cotton and secure with tin foil, leave for ten minutes and it should fall away with ease.

Alexander Wang

Nail Polish,Givenchy

Dior

Dsquared2

Eye shadows, Maybelline

Color me brightThe new seasonThe new season’s collection is characterized

by a warm wintery palette in terms of fashion. The same palette warms the

makeup with hues of green, purple, orange and blue. Don’t overdose- the shadows

should be the only colorful accent on your face.

BEAUTY TRENDS

Bare MinimumOn some ruOn some runways, such as Paul Smith, Balenciaga and Stella McCartney, the amount of make-up was kept to a

monimum. Cover all the skin imperfections with a concealer and you’ll get the perfect

model-off-duty look.

Off-Duty BallerinasFrom luminous skin to swept-back dancer buns, flushed pink cheeks to lengthy lashes, the new season's looks, as seen at Prada, Altuzarra and Erdem were ballerina perfect.

Rodarte

Line it upWhether you prefer a heavy smoky eye like at Tom Ford, a softer variation or a sleek winged effect (Rag & Bone), the bottom line - creating definition is key.

Nicole M

iller

Diane von Furstenberg

Jean Paul Gaultier

Bobby Brown

Dolce & Gabbana

HOME ALONEModel: Maria Photo: Daria Shubina

Style: Mary Kso

Gift Guide2014- 15

GREEN

Dress, Alice + Olivia

Candle, Cire Trudon

Blouse, Kenzo

Flats, Charlotte Olympia

Bag, M2Malletier Earrings, Marni

Bra, panties, Stella McCartney

Watches, Michael Kors

Fragrance, Joya ‘FoxGlove’

Colours can speak volumes about us - just ask astrologists or designers. When choosing a present, keep in mind favorite colours of your friends and relatives - and let the holidays be

bright.

Eye shadows, Kjaer Weis

RED

Clutch, Charlotte Olympia

Bra, thongs, Agent Provocateur

Skirt, House of Holland

Cardholder, Saint Laurent

Watches, Larsson & Jennings

Lip gloss, Hourglass

Shoes,Gianvito Rossi

Fragrance, Dolce&Gabbana The One

Dress, Maison Kitsune

Nancy MacDonell ‘The Shoe Book’

Headphones, Beats Studio Champagne

Clutch, Charlotte Olympia

Sunglasses, Karen Walker

Bracelet,Paula Mendoza

Keychain,Dolce & Gabbana

Watches,Larsson & Jennings

Skirt, MSGM

Shoes, Lucy Choi

Scented candle,Neom Organics

Fragrance,Victoria’s Secret Angel Gold

Boots, Esquivel

Earrings, Oscar de la Renta

GOLD

Scarf, Chan Luu

Cream,La Prairie

Sneackers, Miu Miu

IPhone case, Marcus Lupfer

Bag, YMC

Shirt, Each X Other

Bikini, Heidi Klein

Earrings, Erickson Beamon

Pumps, Charlotte Olympia

Eyeshadows, Burberry Make up

Notebook, Smythson

BLUE

PASTEL

Belt, Alaïa

Clutch, Clare V

Soap set, Bamford

Lip Protectant, By Terry

Watches, Michael Kors

Knickers of the week set, Stella McCartney

Feagrance, Si by Georgio Armani

Shoes, Marni

Lingerie set, Mimi Holliday

Dress, Tory Burch

Interview with...

ALEXANDERWANG

Only 30 years old, Alexander Wang has already turned his brand into a global powerhouse and landed the creative director role at Balenciaga. Come November, he’ll also be the first American designer to collaborate

with H&M, and the youngest ever!

Alexander Wang is a person bursting with infectious enthusiasm. It’s no wonder – since launching his eponymous New York brand in 2007 at the age of 23, Wang has gone on to build a wildly successful empire around it. In 2012, he was made creative director of the legendary Parisian house Balenciaga. That Wang is one of the most talis one of the most talked about names in fashion right now is undeniable – he’s really got a knack for nailing the spirit of our times, and creating wearable, sought-after pieces that cause a frenzy among fashion insiders, as well as celebrities and shoppers. Alexander Wang collections are always infused with urban style and an element of the ffamiliar, albeit executed in an unexpected way. With such positive, creative energy and undeniable cool factor, Wang attracts like people. His designs are worn by celebrities such as Rihanna, Katy Perry and Zoë Kravitz, and, of course, a legion of catwalk models.

Why do you think your designs have resonated so strongly with people?IIt’s about function, but also a connection to something that is familiar, that people see as part of their wardrobe and can be comfortable in. I have this outlook on fashion that is unprecious. Whoever partakes in our brand, there’s always a sense of never conforming to a fashion system of trends, how you have to wear things, or the definthings, or the definitions of ‘luxury’ and ‘street’. There’s an irreverent approach to fashion.

So how do ypu keep things fresh?At the end of the day, humans have two arms and two legs and, until the next species evolves

[laughs], I’m designing within those kind of restraints.FFabrication and technology is where the newness comes from. But as much as things can be innovative, there’s always a nostalgic feel. Whether it’s glow-in-the-dark or heat-sensitive [which Wang has used in both his catwalk collections and on more accessible accessories], for me it brings back certain memories.

You’ve touched on the importance of comfort and You’ve touched on the importance of comfort and wearability, do you see this as a result of your Californian upbringing?MMaybe. Yes, I’m based in New York, I was born in California and I’m an Asian-American by fact, but I’m always travelling and looking at how people dress around the world. I think wearability is more something I inherently believe in. It comes as second nature when I do fittings, and it’s what I’m attracted to. I don’t think, “I’m designing in New York, I have to make it wearable”. ThaThat’s not my approach. It’s just what feels right.

INTERVIEW

You’re heavily involved in both the business and creative side of fashion. What interests you about that?AAt the end of the day, fashion is a business. It’s commerce, it’s selling clothes. If I were in it just for the creative aspect, I wouldn’t be in fashion, I’d be doing costume design. So you have to create something, but also fit it into a certain structure: show it to buyers, have it work on a sales floor, have people buy it. There are a lot of elements in the equation, and the mothe equation, and the more you understand the business, the more you’re able to be responsible for it. It doesn’t make your job easier, it actually makes your job harder – but it’s more exciting for me.

You became obsessed with fashion at a young age. Do you remember how old you were?I remember some time in the fourth or fifth grade, I started collecting fashion magazines, and ripping out editorials and ad campaigns.

How did you first come across the magazines?rom going to the hair salon with my mom and waiting for her. From there, I subscribed to my own fashion magazines when I started boarding school in fifth grade.

What attracted you to fashion?The leThe level of creativity. To be able to create this world, to see a picture, to understand a character and a lifestyle – that’s what first attracted me. It’s like playing director.

What are your main influences right now?EEverything! I’m travelling all the time. I’m in Europe half the time. I’m constantly keeping my eyes and ears open. Music is what I love and what influences me. I’m always trying to stay on top of that.

Do you even have time to do things outside of work?I dI do, I do! My schedule has become a lot fuller, so personal time is a luxury, but it’s also given me clarity and definition as to who my real friends are, what I really want to do, and where I want to focus my energy.

When you’re travelling, do you tend to just wander around a city or do something else?I lI love to wander and figure out a city on my own. I’ve never been one for sightseeing. I’ve never been to the Statue of Liberty or Empire State Building in all the years I’ve lived in New York City!

You’re known to throw a great party. For you, what are the most important elements in order to make that to happen?IIt’s quite simple. A party is driven by the energy of the music and the people there. You could have a good party in this office if you had good music and the right people. Another thing: you have to keep it mysterious. When people are coming to a party, the more you can maintain an element of surprise, the more people feel they’re constantly discovering new things – thathings – that’s key.

Source: hm.com

Alexander Wang for H&M

Spring-Summer 2015

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