desert tour 08

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2008 Madigans Line Edjits Tour

Day 1 29 June 2008 Home to DubboHad a slow start to the trip with friends dropping over to say Bon Voyage. Finally got all thegear loaded and off we went at about 2:00pm. We were aiming to get to Mudgee atWindermere Dam to camp for the night. I felt like a warmed up shit sandwich and after

juicing up at Katoomba and heading down through Lithgow we decided to keep going ontoDubbo.

We were going to stop at Minore Falls but as I was feeling unwell and as the laptop andOzi were playing up we decided to stop at out favorite motel Green Gables and have ameal at the club and then head off at sparrows to get to Menindee Lakes to tomorrowafternoon.

Wave tally all Defenders waved Discos and Rangies nil. Stopped between Goolma andDubbo and listened into Adelaide Skeds and managed to get through the Adelaide basewho read me loud and clear. Could hear people at Dalhousie Springs, Cape York, Canning

Stock Route and Innaminka.Wildlife seen:- only 2 foxes one nearly under the red terror wheelsNo story straight to bed

Day 2 30 June 2008 Dubbo to Menindee LakesUp at 6am and away by 6:30 Drove to Nyngan for brekkie. Temperature at Dubbo was 4degrees and there was ice on the gear on the red terror roof. The sun was just beginningto rise as we left Dubbo but was not seen until 7.30am. Sausages bacon and tomato. 26snags a tomato and 2 rashers of bacon later had my feed and of we go again. Arrived atCobar and straight through to Wilcannia. Juiced up and headed down to Menindee. Wewere told that the fruit fly exclusion zone started at the SA border so we had bit of fruitwhich we were going to eat at Menindee Lakes. There were signs everywhere on the roadin saying that you can't take fruit in so we pulled up near the weir between LakePamamaroo and Menindee Lakes about 3.30pm and had lots of fruit for a late lunch.

So here we are sitting around our 1st camp fire for the trip,overlooking the Darling at theMain Weir,which is between the Darling and Lake Wetherill, near Menindee, camp is setup, fishing lines set & yabbie traps baited! Have had a beer and a cuppa and now wecontemplate the beauty of the evening, The wind is dropping it was hideous on theMenindee Lake side but we are quite sheltered here.

Today we saw Emus bolting across the road about half way between Cobar & Wilcanniaand 2000 goats all shapes colours and sizes. Some really big Roo's, 2 wedge tale Eaglesand here there are Kookaburra birds and Galahs. And still the discos and rovers don'twave.

We'll have a bit of a Barbie this evening and we'll even do the taties in their jackets weonly bought 2 with us just for tonight!

Day 3 July 1st Menindee to Broken HillUp late no reason to gt up early- much warmer this morning 9 degrees. Checked therods and the yabbie traps. One shrimp to show for all my efforts. Good brekkie of BBQtomatoes and bacon on muffins washed down with tea.

Packed up and on the road about 11:00 and off to Kinchega National Park for a lookaround. Went to the old woolshed which in its day put through 75,000 sheep a season it


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was a top old shed with the old traction engines, one that they had walked up fromMelbourne now that would have been a trip. We drove along the Darling to the remainsof PS Providence whose boiler blew up after the crew got back from the pub, stoked thefire but forgot to put any water in the boiler. And it blew up killing 6 crew including thechinese cook who thy found alive up a near by tree but who later died only a big oldboiler remains! Then we went further along the old homestead ruins. Just a pile of bricks

and a fireplace now. Would have been a sight at the turn of th 20th

century when it had 40shearers on staff and extended from there almost to Broken Hill 95 kilometres away. Raninto a bloke with the best 130 set-up you have ever seen. This thing had a motor drivenextension camper on it, that has a double bed, shower, gas hot water system, fridge,freezer and a block of flats plus Tasmania. I told him he should have bought it to Cooma.He would have won hands down. When I told him this his mates started giving him a hardtime. We kept bumping into them all day as we drove around the National Park. Every timewe stopped his mates would say what was first prize and how much would he have wonby. Quite a hoot.

Off to the Menindee pub (apparently there are 2 pubs in Menindee and we went to the non

historical one!- oh well they were very nice people!) for lunch then a drive into Broken hillarriving her at about 3:30 EST. Staying in the caravan park and set up for two days stayhere. Noticed a bit of oil on the rear mud flap so called the guy who did all the work on theRed Terror in Sydney. I thought it might be a rear axle seal but he thinks it is a leak fromthe transfer case. I will check the oil level in the morning. Just to be sure I will take it downto the Landy dealer in Broken Hill and let him have a look.

Checking out the tourist guide for tomorrows activities and called Norm to seek his adviceon the oil leak.

Wildlife for the day included a flotilla of Pelicans at breakfast and a very graceful whiteegret, Roos and Emus in the Park, 3 wedge tails and 4 Major Mitchell cockatoos seen onthe way to Broken hill and some wild goats.

Day 4 July 2nd Broken HillUp at 7.30 (7degrees this morning) for a quick cuppa and a bowl of porridge. Off to thelocal tyre bloke to check out the rear drivers side tyre that has a tear in the sidewall. Thebloke reckons it is OK and not an immediate problem. Then off to see if we can find theBroken Hill Landy dealership which we discover after some questions around town doesnot exist anymore, We do however find out that Daryl was the local Landy man and nowworks at Broken Hill mufflers. He has a look at the oil problem and says that it is not a rearaxle seal problem but looks to be oil coming from the transfer case leak. Two bits of goodnews for the red terror.Met a chap from AULRO - Mark LRH - driving a defender extreme who knows 'Bushie'

had a bit of a chat they're are on a 4 month trip.

Off to do the tourist things in BH. Up th hill to the Line of Lode Miners Memorial and it isfreezing up there. The wind is blowing at 40 knots and the wind chill factor is down tobuggery. Then it was off to the RFDS headquarters for the tour there. Jan was veryinterested and asked a lot of nursey questions and had a good look at the drugs chest.

On the way back to town stopped at Bells Milk Bar where Jan was in heaven as they hadJaffa milkshakes. I had a caramel one and waffle and ice cream. Back into town and off tothe Day Dream Mine for the underground tour it was an old silver mine and now the onlyone left you can down and have a look at. Very interesting seeing how they mined at theturn of the century.


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Then off to Silverton Pub for lunch. I had the pie floater and Janine had th pea soup andbread roll. Both superb. After that we went to the Mundi Mundi lookout which had greatviews to the horizon.

Then we went to the Living Desert Sculpture Park and walked up the hill which took 20minutes. I was OK but Jan was huffing and puffing by the time we got up there. Saw lots of

rock wallabies and Euros on the way up and down.

Back to the caravan park where I checked the transfer case for oil. Put in 400mls usinglarge 25ml syringe which took some time. Then off for a shower and then off to the Musosclub for a feed and to watch Qld beat NSW not again. Back to camp for a cuppa and offto bed.

Day 5 July 3rd Broken Hill to WilpenaUp a bit late and started packing getting ready to go to the Flinders Ranges. Jan went offto powder her nose so I backed up th RT to fill the water bladder. Th windows were foggedup so I did not see the gs bottle behind me and there goes a brake light lens.

Pack up and on the road about 9:20 off through Cockburn and then onto Yunta with a briefstop along the way for a quick cuppa. The road from Yunta was pretty good considering herain they had had few weeks ago. The floodways were all good in th first section toCurnomona where we stopped for lunch.

Off along the road to Euriga woolshed where we tuned off to Martins Wells tn theRawnsley Park road which was pretty bad with he washouts in some places needing 1st

gear and some walking through to traverse. I was busy playing with the i Pod when Ilooked up to see a large washout in front. A heavy application of brakes and some quick toand fro saw th RT almost airborne. I noticed a bolt flying through the air so topped to checkit out. Walked back up the road and found it. I was wondering where that other bolt wentwhen I was mounting the spare tyre on the roofracks. Anyway no harm done and back onthe road to Wilpena. Stopped at a great lookout called Pugilist Hill and took some greatshots the road up was pretty steep with the RT in 1st to get to the top. Well worth the effortthough.

Got to Wilpena at around 4pm and found out that you had to buy firewood as you can'tcollect firewood in the park. Got half set up and then quick bolt back out of he park to getroof rack of wood. Back to camp and Jan fixed feed of chicken red curry

Wildlife count Emus, heaps of Wallabies & Euros, a wedge tail eagle and some beautifulturquoise parrots.

Day 6 July 4th Wilpena, Parachilna, Blinman & Willow Springs

4 degrees this morning at 6.30 when we got up. We went into Wilpena Pound to theWangara Lookout 7 km's & 3 hours round walk. Spectacular views, nice walk. We leftWilpena at 11.30am and headed to Parachilna for lunch. Fantastic meal I had aKangaroo Thai Salad and Vince had the Feral Mixed Grill camel sausage, emu rissole &Kangaroo steak! While we were there the coal train went past it had carriages 2.8 kmlong. The gorge from Blinman to Parachilna was really very twisty and turny and ratherspectacular. Went back to Blinman and had a Blinman pale ale quite nice actually! Vincewanted to top up the diesel so we went back to Wilpena for that and had to come back toWillow. Met Bernie and Fiona from Melbourne and we are both going to do th SkyTrack inth morning so we decided to camp together at Willow Springs. Having Mushroom Soup &self saucing chocolate pudding for tea. A few beers a chat with our new camping friends


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and an early night as we wanted to be up early to do th Sky Trek.

Day 7 July 5th Willow Springs Station Sky Trek

Up at around 6:30 to get ready to go. 5 degrees and a cool breeze made brekkie a bit ofchilly one. The porridge soon warmed us up. Unpacked all the gear so e could run as light

as possible and onto the Sky Trek. It wasn't warming up and it was only 7 degrees whenwe opened the first gate. The country along the creek on th first part of the track was verypretty with a few wallabies and emus. Got to Moxton's Hut and got the camera out. Flatbattery. So put in new ones, flat battery. The batteries were fine as I put hem in a torch andthey went fine. What a pain, doing this great trek and no bloody camera. I rememberedthat I had my phone that has a camera so it was phone photos all day. Smoko just off thetrack just before we got into the steep country. It was then that we heard the blowfliescoming. We had been told that 20 quad bikes were doing the run and they soon went pastus in a blaze of dust. We let them go through and had a cuppa. We just set off and two ofthem came flying past us going back asking if we has seen 6 others tat had failed to catchup. No luck so we went past them all and headed up the hills with the track to ourselves.

Peace and quit at last.

The guide notes say extreme 4WD track use low range from 35 kilometres in. I was thinkinyeah yeah sure but I son changed my tune when i looked at he first hill. Very steep withlose shale and ruts all over the place. The RT had no problems although I tried without hecentre diff in and it dis slip a bit so I used it on all the steep sections for he rest of the day.

Up and up and when I thought we were at th top up we went gain. At the highest point MtCaernarvon it is 920 metres. When we started we were at 190 metres. The views werespectacular and we put our names in the visitors book before heading off again. I thoughtwe were going to start coming down and we did straight down in low 1st walking overrocks and washouts looking over th edge at a sheer drop. It was at this point that Jan hadthat look on her face and you could say a buttock clenching moment. My hands weredecidedly moist as well. I thought thank god were are going down. No up again to MtKibble Lookout which had great views back to Wilpena Pound. More photos and thendown down and down some more. When we finally go down to the lower valley wedecided to have lunch so I pulled off th main track under some trees. By this time we hadbeen going for 4 hours. Tuna and cream cheese on Rivitas sounded pretty goodwashed down with a brew. When we left I started going down the track and thought, hangon I did not go around that fallen branch. Backtrack and sure enough I was on anothertrack.

Back down on the flat and we decided to go up to Skull Rock. Just as we get there it is7klms from th main track, up pull the quads. Only two of them actually got off and walkedthe 400 metres up to the lookout. Then back on their quads and tear up the track again.Because of their narrow wheel track, they run on the centre of the track and flick all therocks back on th track. Pretty impressive outcrop caused by Calcium Carbonate washingthrough a gap and forming this weird skull shaped rock.

Back on the track and back to Willow Springs homestead. We were planning on packingup and heading off to Chambers Gorge but we were buggered and as our new friendswere also staying a second night we decided to have a restful afternoon around camp. Wehad a shower at the homestead very nice! Vince got himself an 'where eagles saw'sticker and I bought a fly net ready for the flies of the cattle country. Back at camp Vincefixed his 'horn' so now we can beep at things, put in 75 mls of Transmission fluid and Imended his shirts! He has been ripping them on almost a daily basis! After dinner the 5adults played scrabble a very close game only 10 points between first and last.


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Day 8 Sunday 6 JulyWe started our day at 2.00am when Vince woke me to put the tent up as it was raining he had to wake me twice! We got up a little later this morning around 7.30 temp awarmer 8 degrees. The morning was overcast and damp it kept drizzling so we packedup a wet tent in the end and headed off towards Chambers Gorge about 9.30. Wild life

highlight a Falcon otherwise just the usual roos. We went for a walk up the gorge as soonas we arrived. Found the aboriginal engravings to be very impressive and it was apleasant walk as well. Had a late cuppa around 12 before getting back on the road forArkaroola. Arrived around 2.30 and elected to have a bush camp drove quite a way upthe creek to find a quiet spot, pitched the wet tent as it needed drying but also cause theweather looked sus and we will be needing it's protection tonight. Put another 125ml ofgear oil in the transfer case. Need to get some at Leigh Creek tomorrow. We went and putsome washing on and went to look around the old woolshed which had some interestingold equipment around it and an old series 2 Landy. Picked up the washing and back tocamp. Needed to improvise a bit of shelter due to some inclement weather. It's looking likea poor night for star gazing. We are observatory jinxed, every time we book into a tour to

look at the heavens we get clouded or washed out. So it will be bangers and veggies fortea and an early night as we need to be on the road early as we re heading to Leigh Creekand Maree tomorrow. Having trouble with Edjit Radio as there is always interference. Weare in a hollow between mountains though.

Day 9 Monday 7 JulyUp at 7am and a quick cuppa while we packed up and put away our washing of he line. Itblew a gale all night and rained as well. There was a pair of lovely parrots looking for anest in a tree near us at brekkie they had a yellow breast and a yellow streak aroundthere eyes will need to look them up in the bird book later. All packed up and on the roadto Leigh Creek to stock up on some veggies and fuel as well as some gear oil. Had a goodrun but into a strong headwind. It was freezing and when we decided to get out for a cuppaand rest stop we quickly jumped back in and decided on cuppa at Leigh Creek may be abetter option. Through Copley and into Leigh Creek where we did the shopping and had aburger as it was getting near lunch. Down to the servo but they had some women therewho was trying to tell me that Automatic transmission fluid was the same thing. Shesuggested I try the servo in Copley as they had a mechanic there.

Off to Copley and the guy there sold me 4 litres which filled my drum with 80/90 gear oil.Back onto the road heading for Maree. Stopped off at the Leigh Creek Coal Mine. Nowthat is some hole in the ground. Had a look at an old drag line which had removed milionsof tonnes of overburben in its day. Back on thr road nd heading to Maree. Got there andwere thinking of having a shower at th caravan park but it looked really sus so we decidedon a beer (as you would) at the pub and then head off to Muloorina campsite which isabout 30 kms south of the bottom of Lake Eyre. The bloke who had the pub said it was atop spot with a great waterhole so after a Coopers or 3 and chat with a couple who wereoff to do the Birdsville track and then the French Line to Dalhousie. We told them of ourtrip and they looked a little shocked thinking they were doing the big outback tour.

The road to Muloorina was great and we decided to stop at a creek that had some deadgidgee and stock up as he surrounding area was a bald as badgers arse of vegetation.We crossed th dog fence and then 20 kms later we turned of to the Lake Eyre NP. As perusual the Yogies keep their standard of road maintenance the same ZERO!. All corrugatedand bulldust. The waterhole was fantastic with birds everywhere, spoonbills, red leggedstilts, white Ibis, ducks plovers and more. Decided to check the transfer case oil again andso under the RT with the inch drive and open the plug and oil started to run out. Itseems the leak is not leaking anymore. Maybe the RT was just marking its territory. We


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decided to have bush shower and when the sun went down so did the wind so up with thescreen and a billy or two of boiling water and presto all clean. Dinner of chillie pork filletand puck choy. This is a top spot! Best camp so far on the trip

Day 10 July 8Woke up in the swags looking at dawn breaking over the Muloorina Waterhole. What

great morning not a cloud in the sky and the view of ducks, stilts and spoonbills 20 metresfrom us greeting the day. Up and put the billy on and start packing as we were heading outto have a look at Lake Eyre. The road was quite good apart from the tops of some of thedunes which were a bit sandy and slippery. It was a bit strange driving at 10 to 20 metersbelow sea level most of the way. Lake Eyre is apparently 15 meters below sea level according to the sign. The run took about 40 minutes and when we got there the windpicked up and it was very chilly indeed. The sight of the lake was spectacular with views tothe horizon of salt and water out a few klms. Back into the RT and off to William Creek.

Stopped off at the viewing spot on the Oodnadatta Track that looked over Lake Eyre andworked out that we had been on the other side some 45 klms earlier that morning. This

part of the track is also below sea level. We pulled up next to another Defender and it wasMark - LRH from AULRO again. He told us he had posted a thread on Bushie's site sayingthat they had bumped into us at Broken Hill. They had just been to Roxby Downs and wereheading to Coward Springs for a couple of days and then through to Cooper Pedy beforeheading towards Alice Springs.

Back in the vehicle and we thought we better get some wood so we pulled up and threw afew Old Ghan sleepers on the racks. Stopped at Coward Springs and saw LRH pulling intohis spot. Had a look at the old siding and station master's house as well as the old welland bore. A quick lunch of ham and tomato on Cruskits and back on th road. Off to WilliamCreek some 190 klms away. The road was good and we averaged about 95klms per hour.Got there at about 3:00pm central and juiced up. Thought a Coopers or two might settlethe dust (outback pub tour). Then back o the road and looking for a campsite for the night.Was contemplating pulling up behind a dune but kept going to Edward Creek where therewere some Old Ghan siding ruins.

They were well off the track but we followed the creek until we got to the old steel railbridge and drove under to the other side. Set up camp and then noticed there were twograves on the side of the tracks near the bridge. We went for a walk and there was noname on the headstones. We could see the old siding ruins so went for walk up to them. Itwas further than it looked and took 15 minutes to walk up there. As they are well off theroad they are in pretty good nick. There were what looked like accommodation buildingsfor overnighting travelers and the water tower as well as some other old buildings includinghe stationmaster's dwelling. Picked up some sleepers on the way back and got good firegoing so we could have spuds in foil on the coals. This is a very Dingly Dell we arecamped in tonight..

Wednesday July 9 day 11

Up at 7 and although it felt like our coldest morning yet, it was 4 degrees. We planned aslow start with a cooked breakfast on the barbie very yummy indeed. We also gatheredsome good fire wood river gums and sleepers from the old ghan. We were on the road toOodnadatta by 9.45. Arrived at Oodnadatta about 11 and after topping up - $2.17 a liter most expensive deisel yet! - we went to the camping ground for a very welcome shower. Afew post cards home and we were on the road again just after midday. Had a lunch stopnot long after we turned onto the road to the painted desert. Vince tried the 1.00pmCharters Towers skeds did not get through but someone in Qld heard him and spoke to


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Visitors centre after paying our $50 donation to the local community. It was then we foundout that due to high winds at the summit the climb was closed for the day.

We came upon a tourist group with a guide getting ready to do cultural a tour to the rockso we sort of just slid on in. It was very interesting and the local tribesman although hewas not an ancestor so he could not show us some things told us of the dreamtime story

of the rocks creation by Liru and Kuniya the two snakes that met and gave birth to the rock bloody big labour!

He then showed how they made the traditional Pita bowl, Kita glue made from spinifex,the spears and womeras. He then told us of the two men who met and how one stole theother blokes emu and that is how the caves were formed.

When we got to the area where the climb starts we were told to get back on the bus that iswhen Jan and I snuck away and went and did our our own tour of the base of Uluru. Thereis heaps to see and the art in the caves and the rock formations themselves wereincredible. We went back to the car and had some lunch before driving around the other

side to the Mutitjulu Waterhole and followed the base of the rock for a couple of klmsbefore heading back to the RT to drive around to the next section near what I call TheBrain for a look at that side of the rock. We then did a drive around the whole rock andthen went to the Olgas where we did the Walpa Gorge which was spectacular with the rockgoing up sheer on both sides. It was somewhat spoilt by some unruly kids who wanted tohave arm wrestles and chasings up and down the path.

We walked back to the RT and drove down to the Valley of the Winds and walked up to thefirst lookout which was also very stunning. We then went back and drove up to the sunsetviewing area and got onto the Alice Sked and logged in before climbing up to the viewingarea to take in the view of the Olgas from the western side. We then worked out that wehad walked in excess of 14 klms and our feet and legs could attest to this fact.

Back to camp for a shower which for me was hot with no cold water and Jans was coldwith no hot. Just what you need after a day on your feet. Dinner of BBQ pork chops, boiledspuds and cabbage and puck choy washed own with a Reschs or three was just the ticket.Tea and off to bed as we want to get going early to go to Kings Canyon.

Day 14 July 12Up at 6am in the dark to get packed up and off to Kings Canyon. Got on the road at about8am after brekkie and packing up the tent. We had been getting on good with the guyscamped alongside us and they had been to Kings Canyon about 18 years ago. We saidwe might see them there and headed off. We got juice at Curtin Springs and the lovelyGerman girl pumping the diesel told us that Kings Creek Station was a top place to campas each campsite was its own little area. She said the resort campsite was over the topand a bit yuppy for her liking. She reminded me of the lovely braless Barbara fromDiamantina NP. As I went around the back of the RT I hooked my shirt on the remains ofthe taillight and ripped the crap out of it. It is now a rag Jan reckons but I am sure Normwould get a few more years out of it. We got on the road and headed off. Wanted to getsome firewood but there was only Desert Oak and Mulga on the road. Finally found somegood gidgee type wattle about 60klms from camp and loaded up. A Fender went past aswe were loading and gave a toot and big wave. There were heaps of camels on the roadwith people stopping to take photos. One big bull had a few cows and some nice lookingyoung calves. I was thinking I hope we see some that size in the Simpson for the pot.

Got to Kings Creek Station at about 11am and the bloke took us around and showed us acouple of sites. We settled on with with grass. Fester would have loved it. Had a cuppa


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and set up the tent and unloaded the stuff off the racks and hit the road with the plan beingto have lunch when we got there. It is about 30klms to the Canyon and we got there andhad tuna cheese and tomato wraps. Packed the small backpack and off we set. The walkinfo says to allow for 3.5 hours to do the rim walk and it was about 1pm when we set off.The temp was about 25 degrees but there was a breeze. The first section is straight upwith about 300 steps cut into and made on the face of the canyon. Jan was as red as a

beetroot by the time we got to the top. She is getting fitter though. The rim walk wasfantastic and the views were great. We had the first of the walk to ourselves but we thencaught up with a group of jap and german backpackers who we could not shake. If wewent in front they caught up if we stopped to let them through we caught up to them. Thegeology fo this area is great, every valey and turn it changes and the country looksdifferent. All in all a great walk. We did it in 2 hours and 20 minutes. We were prettybuggered when we got back to the RT and headed back to camp for a beer or three and ashower. I checked the transfer case again and had to put in 75mls. I decided I shouldcheck the rear diff as well and it took 200mls the sun burnt a whole in the drivers seatwhile we were doing this reflection off the mirror neallt set the RT on fire!

Off to the showers and back ready to get the fire going for tea. Rump steak and spuds onthe BBQ plate.

Day 15 July 13th The Break it day

We had a slower start today decided to have a cooked breakfast this morning thenpacked up to go. Filled up the bladder with bore water as it was quite good drinking waterat kings canyon station. It was a cool 4 degrees again this morning a constant morningnumber for us. On the road by 9. 30. Lots of finches around this morning and we sawmany groups of brumbies running free. We stopped at a lookout about 10.30 for a cuppaand a check of RT fluids topped up the diff again as Vince noticed an increased leak onthat back left wheel. We had decided to go to Palm Valley first instead of the Mac Donald

ranges so to the Valley we went a very rough road in along the Finke river bed andthen with the last 5-6 kms all 4 WD over the rocky river floor. Went for a walk when we gotthere to check out the palms and they were quite pretty and certainly not what you wouldexpect to see. It was certainly a popular destination heaps of people coming and going.It was hen that Jan's boot sole decided to come away which led to a low walk back to thevehicle.

We had planned to have lunch somewhere on the way out but that never quite happenedtoday. We ducked into Hermansburg to fill up the RT with diesel and the headed out for theMcDonald ranges. We stopped to gather wood along the way the first spot was reallypoor so we were going to move off Vince noticed the back right tyre was going down and it

had been difficult to steer in the bull dust for a little while. We decided to change the tyreas we couldn't find the hole to plug. Once that was done we moved on picked up somewood and decided to camp in the first gorge we came to with a camping ground Redbank gorge. Well then the fun began we found ourselves a spot and then saw thatthe leak had increased in volume on the left back wheel took the tyre off to investigatebut couldn't locate the problem. The RT did not need anymore diff oil though. Wea re goingto try and nurse the RT into Alice a further 125klms topping up the diff fluid as required aswe do not have a rear axle seal.

Then Vince found that a switch on the VKS radio had broken curses a plenty then Icouldn't open the fridge as the cargo barrier had moved forward so that had to be fixed. A

quick cous cous meal and we'll be off to bed so we can be on the road early to limpourselves into Alice for repairs.


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Day 16 July 14 Fix it up dayWoke up at 5:30am and laid there looking at satellites and shooting stars until about 6:30when we got up had a quick cuppa packed up and hit the road. I was looking to check theaxle leak every 25 klms or so and it was 153 to Alice Springs. The morning broke sunnybut with a wind from the north which blew the RT all over the road which ws made worseby the narrower spare tyre on the drivers side. The fluid was only a slow leak so we kept

going.

Got into Alice and went to the Tourist Info office and found out where Heavitree campingarea was. Got the info as well as where Suttons was and headed off to set up camp. Hadto look around for a while to find a spot big enough to accommodate us the Numpties andthe eastern Edjits if and when they arrived. Set up the tent and so back to camp had acuppa and then went to town and off to Suttons where the mechanic had a look and hereckoned it was not the inner seal but more likely the outer area where the paper gasket is.He gave us the clues on how to fix it and also had a look at the front output shaft seal onthe transfer case and advised us to change the seal. This he had in stock along with a newrear brake lens which I broke at Broken Hill.

I also ordered new hubcaps but they won't be in until tomorrow afternoon. Off to Repco toget the RT silicone and some locktite and some contact adhesive to fix Jan's boot. Wewere then overtaken by the smell of Red Rooster chicken and chips so went in and hadsome. While there Lea rang from NZ and we spoke to Vincent who is having great time.

Off to Central Communications to see about the HF and the boss was out until 4 so we leftdetails and said we would be back then. Back to camp and glue boots, fix the cargo barrierwith some old wood I found at the tip at the back of he camp. I also plugged the flat tyrewhich went well.

Went back to Central Comms and the guy had a look and fixed the channel selector. Healso recommended I up the power lead to 6mm as this maybe why I cannot transmit aswell as receive. Back wire up which turned into a mammoth task as th leads to connect towere so short under the set. Finally got it done and had a fillet steak peas and carrotsbefore packing up and heading to the tavern for a beer before bed. Numpties should behere tomorrow so he real mechanical work starts then.

Day 17 July 15

We had a late start as we had few plans for the day, enjoyed a cooked breakfast beforedoing domestic chores like 'the washing'. It was a warmer 5 degrees this morning but it feltcooler. We then went out to the Old Ghan Museum and the Road Transport museum. Bothvery interesting and a lot of work has been put into the displays. Vince was unable shapeof the locking however to find out the significance of the locking pin of the Ghan train track.Also we had contact with the numpties while in the transport museum Vince was relievedas he was anxious for help with these seal repairs. Back to the camp site for some lunchwhich was 'pancakes'. Martyn & Amanda, Pat & Perry arrived at this stage. Nice to be incontact with them again. I rang Suttons motors and our parts had arrived so Vince & I wentin to town to get them. We also bought a new compressor to deal with tyres on sand dunesand ordered a new side mirror to be made so that we don't burn the car down in the future.Back to camp and Vince repaired the left wheel seal and changed the tyres back over somost repairs attended now. A bit of chatting and sharing stories and later we had a beer or3. BBQ for dinner tonight.

Day 18 July 16Up early (5 degrees) as we wanted to get all he RT problems solved. I had a good cooked


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breakfast of bacon and cheese sandwiches Jan had bacon & eggs. Out & about for afew hours sorting out the restocking of goods used and the purchasing of extras required.Back to camp and got stuck into the job of changing the transfer case seal. It was a buggerof a job getting the flange bolt undone and had to get a leg onto to long extension on thesocket to get it off.

Got it off and had to get a tool to push the new seal in. We looked for a number of cansand finally Jan found a small can of Sirena Tuna was the perfect fit. Once we emptied itout and cut a hole to let the spline through. Once in the put back together was not too badand the result was that the seal she no leak no more.

Got cleaned up and went to meet with Martyn and Perry's old work budy Phantom who wehad met in Cooma at Easter. Had a beer or two and then went to dinner at the AliceSprings Casino and had fish and chips while watching South Africa beat he All Blacks.

Had to bolt to the bottle shop as they only open from 2pm till 9pm and you have to providephoto ID under the new intervention laws. Just made it and got necessary grog for the trip.

Back to camp for a cuppa and off to bed.

Day 19 July 17Up about 7.30 this morning. A milder morning at 10 degrees. So then we fueled up, gassedup, watered up and eventually packed up. Had lunch under the gum trees while we waitedfor confirmation that Martyn's door lock had arrived. This occurred about 1.30 pm so we offin convoy to Suttons to procure the part which was promptly installed by many willinghands. It was quite warm hanging out at Suttons. While there we heard the dulcid tones ofMobile 2757 calling in. We were able to contact Norm briefly and then we on our wayabout 2pm heading out for Rainbow Valley, 80 kms south of Alice Springs. A small woodcollection was required just as we left the highway and we then travelled the last 20 kms tothe valley. We had a cuppa on arrival and went for a walk amongst the rocks some veryinteresting formations. We decided to climb one of the ridges and the veiws from the topwere superb. Had some fun with shadow photos which had all of us having a good laughAbit of a scramble down in time for beer o'clock before sunset. We wandered up to thesunset viewing area to enjoy the scene. Then back to camp to for ceasar salad. for dinner.

Day 20 July 18It was a warm 6 degrees this morning when we got up. Warm porridge for breakfast beforepacking the RT. There was a lot of discussion re the dog that came a prowling around theat bed time last night it was a big black alsation looking dog and there were big prints leftbehind it didn't come back after it was shoed away. We went for a walk over the claypans around the front of the rock formations looking at animal tracks. Had a cuppa onreturn before heading off for Kulgara. Saw quite a lot of wedge tails along the way. Pulledoff at a 'rest stop for lunch about 110kms from Kulgara passed the same cyclists we sawthe day before they stopped for lunch at the same spot and they turned out to beGerman guys heading from Darwin to Adelaide and they were all over 50. Very fit men.Then a super duper vehicle pulled in, looked a bit like a moon vehicle! - all the boys rushedover to check the thing out.

Pulled in to Kulgara about 2.30, juiced up and went for a shower. Then we headed for thebar to await the arrival of the other edgits. 3 beers later Norm and Wash and Linda arrived Steve Catto had returned to Sydney 2 days before. Stories were exchanged and weheaded out up the road towards Finke. Headed down a creek bed about 20 kms later to aspot with abundant fire wood. Made a green curry with lamb for dinner too hot for me!!!

Day 21 July 19


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We were up for the sunrise on a morning that was warmer at 10 degrees. The big news ofthe morning was that Wash & Linda were not coming on any further with us off to do theirown thing and to join back up with us at Louth. Vince sighted in the rifle and it was prettyclose, close enough for camels anyway. We headed out just after 9am for the Lambertcentre wash came with us for this which is the geographical centre of Australia.

On route we came across a couple who had been stranded overnight with flat tyres and acompressor that had failed It took about 30 mins to help them out. Then we were on ourmerry way again. Signed the book at the centre of Australia and ran a Land rover flag upthe pole for a photo shoot. Time was now a tickin, and we needed to be at Finke to fuel upbefore 12 midday, also the sky was turning a dirty brown as the wind was starting to blowup a dust storm so off we went and wash came with us for the drive as we were nowcutting things very fine for the fuel. By the time we had our deisel the dust was a lot thickerin the air. We headed for old Andando and Wash back towards Alice (somewhere). Thedust storm was so bad that at times we had to stop! It was a no go for lunch! Norm & Perrytook a bottle of Edjits tour wine up to Andando station and we headed on to the old stationhoping for some respite.- none was to be found! The old station has caretakers John and

Elizabeth that are happy to show you around and talk about the history of the place. For asmall donation of $2 per person and that got us a very welcome cuppa and a bickie or 2!Then we hit the road again to try and find our way to camp 1. We had difficulty orreintatingourselves in the dust we had to find the gap in the fence as it was getting late wedecided to head back to East bore near casurina swamp. We found water in the bore wecollected enough for showers for all a luxury after our stressful day in the dust. Joy ofjoys the wind dropped as evening fell and a pleasant evening was had by all. (The windreared its ugly head again about 2am.

Day 22 July 20Up early as the sun was just a smear on the horizon and I could not sleep anymore havinggot up during the night to batten down the hatches. A nice cuppa and a bowl of cereal andit was off on the Madigan line for real to start the section of the tour that we had beenplanning for nearly 2 years. There was a track which wound in and out of low scrub and wewere heading towards Camp 1 and then Camp 1A. There were some good dunes andsome had a very steep decent on the back side. We could not find camp 1 however Patwalked back and found a post with a tin can which was the camp 1 location. We pushedon and headed towards Camp 2 for lunch and had a nice brew and lunch behind a dune.

We got to a pair of hills called The Twins. We climbed up and found a plaque recognisingMadigans crossing in 1939 and then we found a tin with a book and some cards in it. Weleft our names and an Edjit sticker in the book and then headed over he next dune to aDingly Dell where there was plenty of wood but heaps of big burrs. We made bread,Amanda made pullapart bread and Pat made a huge beef curry which we all put vegiesinto and we are waiting to get stuck into it. Martyn loaded all the waypoints into my GPSand I did the trip journal for yesterday and today. Cracked a beer at round 5:30pm. Themoon came up and we had date scones and a cuppa before turning in for the night.Dune count for the day:- 27

Day 23 21 JulyWoke at 6am and watched the shooting stars and satellites before braving the cold andgetting up to stoke he fire for a billy. Had a nice brekkie of fresh baked bread, cheese andvegimite toasted sandwich. Packed and ready to go by 9am.

Onto the track and the first 20klms were pretty easy going, it wasn't long though before wewere on the Madigan's proper and the dunes and the swales got progressively harder androugher. The swales in particular were very rough. Stopped for smoko in a swale out of the


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wind and when we took off I saw a cloud of air blow out of Pat & Parry's rear tyre. A stickhad gone right through the wall of the tyre and out the side. Had to dig the jack in and itwasn't long before we were back on the road. Average speed was around 5-8 klms perhour as the track was so rough. I had a couple of goes at getting over a couple of dunesthat had very soft crests.

Bashed through till lunch and had a moment or two when we lost the track nd had to findan alternative traverse over some step dunes. Lunch of fresh bread, fetta cheese andtomato sandwiches and off we went again. Soon Perry stopped again and noticed that thefront tyre was going down we tried to find the hole but could not so pumped up with thecompressor and pushed on s we were getting close to the Coulson track. We hit the trackand decided to find a camp as it was getting late. The swales were very open and with littlewood although the amount of native flowers and grass was incredible.

Camp found 3 klms from the Coulson and set up camp. All pitched in to fix Perry's tyresand a dinner of pork fillet stir-fry with veggies.Dune count:- 95 full dunes and 5 half dunes

Day 24 July 22nd

A warmer morning at 8.5 degrees. Yummy porridge for breakie and then packed up and onthe road so to speak or I should say the track. Before we left we spied a big bull cameltrying to cross the dunes near us but he obviously didn't like our smell as he went off in theother direction. Vince was on the look out for a suitable camel for the pot all day butdespite seeing many tracks we never spied another. We got to camp 6 about 10am,checked it out and took the photos. The Stedmans ran over 2 sand dragons (accidentally) we noticed the first one flipping around and we had to help dispatch it as it had asquashed head. Morning tea was made on what we called a main highway a rig road cutthrough the middle of the desert. Some of the swales we went through this morning werevery pretty and lush and green. We stopped for lunch at 1pm in a lovely swale covered inwild flowers. Then we hit the track again bound for Camp 7. It was shortly after this that thetire the boys fixed the day before died! Spare on and off we went. We began looking for asuitable campsite around 3.30 but nothing looked dingley at all. With a strong southerlyblowing we eventually just picked a spot where there was some wood and a couple ofsmall trees (which provided no shelter at all) to camp for the evening. The boys attemptedto put the spare tire onto the rim unsuccessfully so will share the tires as needed. BBQchops and veges for dinner and the wind continues to blow.Dune count for today 156 and 16 half dunes.

Day 25 July 23Woke up early and laid in bed watching stars satellites and shooting stars. Got up around6:30 and got the fire stoked up for a cuppa. Had bacon and creamed corn for brekkie andthen packed in preparation of the trip out to Geosurvey Hill which would mean 50 klmscross country with no track along the swales.

Headed off before 9 and crossed 28 dunes before we got to Camp 8 and after the photoswe headed off towards Geosurvey Hill. The first 3 klms was good going along a claypanand we all thought this would be OK. We soon hit the rough stuff and this continued for therest of the trip with the going getting progressively worse and worse.

After about 15 klms we had tried in the middle of the swales on the dunes, along the dunesand combinations of all three with no appreciable difference. It was then that we noticedtwo camels on the adjacent dune. The others stayed put and Jan & I drove off. I got therifle out and started the hunt. We got to about 50 metres and I loaded and aimed. Put thecrosshairs on the head and squeezed. The shot rang out and the camel just looked at me.


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Load again and fire again same result. They then took off and we followed them foranother klm. They stopped and I aimed again. Shot and the same result. I then noticedthat the dune was getting thinner and it was obvious that the scope was well and truly out.I had to take a left turn down a very steep dune. It took me 5 goes to get back up. We werea fair way from the others and they were having lunch so we stopped and had lunch ofRivitas and cheese and tomato and the others then found us and we packed and headed

off for the last 15 klms to Geosurveys.

It wasn't long before we saw another mob of camels and I again got the rifle out and goteven closer. Bang, same result again a clean miss. Put it away and off for the last fewklms. It was getting even rougher and when we got 1 klm from the hill I heard the whumpof a flat tyre. Out with the jack and change the tyre with help from the boys. It was a stickin the side of he tread so should be easy to plug.

Finally got to Geosurvey Hill and parked. Up we climbed and found a visitors book andnoticed we were only the second group to go there this year and there was not manyothers that had been there in the past few years.

Back down and made camp in a pretty poor stop but there were no other spots and wehad all had the dick by then. Had some good wood so got the fire going and plugged thetyre. Had dinner of BBQ pork chops, spuds on the coals and tinned carrots. This wouldhave to be one of the remotest spots in Australia.

Day 26 July 24Up early again as it was freezing. Frost on the swag and laid there watching the thbrightest satellite I have ever seen. Up and the official Landy mudguard temperature wasminus 2. Had porridge for breakfast and then a quick pack up following a resighting of the.22-250. Up to Geosurveys Hill for morning piccies and then back on the road to camp 9which was 35 klms away.

I lead th way and was following the last tyre tracks back which were right on the GPSbearing we needed. However, with the wind they soon were lost in the sand especially onth top of he dunes which were rather large in this section of the Simpson. I found hemagain and lost them again a couple of times before giving up and blazing our own trail. Hafto cross a number of dunes as our course cross country was at bout 5 degres to the northwhich necessitated crossng them at angle. The first large I crossed I nearly went off heedge of a wind blown crest and hd to be snatched back by Martyn. The going was roughas guts and the Landy suspension was working to its absolute limit. Average speed wasaround 6-8 klms per hour.

I relinquished the lead and we took turns trying to blaze a trail across the dunes. W all hadtroubles at some stage crossing dunes and we had lunch on top of a huge dune still 15klms from the Madigan line. With about 7 klms to go we found a swale which smooth sorather than blaze over another dunes or 5 we followed this till we hit the Madigan Line. Wethen followed the line till we gotto Camp 9 where handshaking and kisses were had tocelebrate the run out to Geo Hill.

Decided to pull the pin and make camp however there was bugger all wood and it took Janand I a god 30 minutes and a number of dune crossing to find a spot where there wasenough wood and a bit of flat ground to throw a swag down. Set camp and I checked hetransfer case fluid and oil Jan and I had a pommy bath over the dune which was fantastic.

Had dinner of chicken and rice and few beers. The plan is to get out to camp 11 orMadigans claypan and a early stop and a roast.


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Day 27 July 25As usual up before dawn and over to get the fire going with Numpty and Norm. Quickbrekkie of porridge and a consult of the official mudguard temperature shows it is a balmy3 degrees. Nice cuppa pack up and on the road for an easy day heading towardsMadigans Claypan which is only around 25 klms away.

We are about to set off and we see some camels walking up the dune above us. One bigBull up front and a couple of cows and a young yearling calf. They kept walking up towithin about 150 metres from us but as they are downwind it is not long before they get ourscent and off they go. I had the cross hairs on the lead bull and was about to pull thetrigger before he skedadled with the others.

We hit the road and had a pleasant drive between the dunes and some rough swales inbrilliant sunshine and light southerly breeze. We had smoko on top of a dune and thendrove the last few klms to the claypan.

We got there just on lunchtime and found a great long claypan with heaps of Gidgee treesand tonnes of firewood. We found a great campsite and soon we were ensconced. Janmade pancakes for lunch while I reglued Jans other boot which had come apart and thenchanged the tyre and put the original Copper on the mag wheel back on. I the made abread mix and the fire was well and truly going with a god bed of coals. I put the bread onand went to clean my hands. It was then that I discovered that my wedding ring. We allsearched the camp but with the dust on th ground it was a hopeless task. I got my swagout and checked it as I could not remember the last time I had seen it on. Pat evenchecked her camera video to see if I was wearing it while changing the tyre as she hadfiled it. We thought it might be in the bread as I had been kneading it or a while. Jan wasvery upset and we were all a bit down when Jan yelled out I found it. It was just stickingout of the dust near our vehicle.

All happy now we set about preparing for the black tie roast that evening. The veggieswere cut and the table prepared. The pork and beef were put on and we sat back with abeer and the girls with a champers in glass flutes.

We cut up the roast and then got changed into the formal clobber. Had great dinner and afew drinks and ports and then got changed and sat around the fire. It was then we noticedthat my dune flag was waving madly but there was no wind. We then saw that Martyns onewaved as well. We then saw the reason, there was an Owl attacking it. Even during thenight Norm said it was attacking his dune flag. In the morning we checked the birds bookand saw it was a Southern Boobook.

Day 28 July 26Up before dawn and a cuppa around the fire before cleaning up and washing all the potsand pans. Had bacon and cheese toasted sandwiches and then packed up and hit theroad heading towards Camp 13 and then to 14.

We were on the road after smoko and were in the lead when I noticed a camel standing ontop of a dune about 250 metres away. I called the others on the radio and said I was goingto try and get a shot at it. I started stalking and then noticed another 4 camels sitting on thnext dune. They were closer so I got down low and approached to around 100 metres andthen took a rest on a fallen mulga tree. I put the crosshairs on its head and fired. Down itwent. Got him, or so I thought as I ran up to finish it off, up it got and tok off. I got a restand fired again and hit it low on the neck. Of it went again. I only had two shots left so iwanted to get closer to finish it off. I got to within 50 metres after a long run. I laid on the


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ground and steadied. Shot again and down it went but again it got up as I approached andtook off. It was bleeding badly and was staggering but was still trotting away. I then noticedthat the lead bull camel was getting worked up. I ran and got a rest and fired again and asbefore it went down but got up again. I was out of ammo and then noticed that Perry wasrunning towards me and he had 5 cartridges. By this stage the camel was a good 400metres from e and it ran hard to load and catch up. I got a rest and fired again and down

and up again. By this stage it was getting very unsteady and stopped on top of a dune. Igot a rest and fired again and it went down and stayed down. I ran up and put two moreshots into the head and it was down for good.

Perry yelled out nd I asked him to get a knife. He said he would get a vehicle and drivedown. It was about a klm from where the vehicle was left. I started skinning the hindquarterwith the leatherman knife which was quite a job. After about 20 minutes Martyn drove up inthe RT and we took few photos and I cut about 5kgs of meat of the rump.

Drove back to the vehicle and celebrated with a beer. Had a salmon sandwich, got cleanedup and headed off for the afternoon drive to Camp 14. It was getting late and we decided

to pull up at a claypan 3 klms from 14 and I cooked a past a sauce with Lamb bits whichwas very nice a beer or two and a cuppa and I was ready for bed.

Day 29 July 27Up before dawn and got the fire going for a cuppa. Porridge and another cuppa then packup and head off towards Camp 14 which Norm was not keen to stop at following theinfamous clutch incident two years ago. We stopped and took a photo with all blokes doinga brown eye to celebrate the fact that we made it past there this time. Down the track tocamp 15 and the Hay River track. What a difference this is like a six lane highway. 27 klmsto the famous Camp 16 where we stopped and erected the plaque that we bought along tocommemorate the Madigan Line Edjits tour. Filled out the visitors book and noticed thatCarl and Julie and Cliff had been through a few weeks before. We had a cuppa and apiece of cake took the group photos and then headed off into the unknown through toCamp 17.

The road got progressively worse as per Madigan line rock and roll and got worse as wewent on. We got to Camp 17 and had a nice lunch of fresh bread ham, cheese & sun driedtomatoes. Al Kida decided to make a chance appearance which bought a smile to theEdjits who took photos.

After lunch we headed towards what the trip notes said were awesome dunes and it wasn'tlong before we got to them. Just after we got over the Queensland border we got to somevery steep and very soft dunes. We reached 600 dunes for the trip. I got stuck on one bigdune and Perry could not snatch me off. Out with the shovels and dig it out as the chassiswas bellying out on the crest of the dune. Another go with a bit of a shove and we were offon the road again.

We saw spot on the map called Mudloo Bore which said it had Gidgee and claypans sowe headed there with the intention of camping for the night. We went over some reallyrough ground which was hard to judge the speed and the incessant axle backlash.

We got to the site but could not see any evidence of a bore which was a disappointmentas we are all really crusty after a week without a tub. We set up camp and I logged us inwith VKS Alice Springs & then cut up and took the fat and sinews from the camel I shotyesterday so we cryovaced it into separate parcels. I put two jerry-cans into the RT andNorm fixed his trye which had developed a slow leak during the day. As it got dark another


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Back on the road and off to the site of Sturts camp which was just down the road then offto Dickery waterhole which was not very nice. We checked out the adjacent bore whichwas running flat out. As this waterhole was not very nice we decided to go back toAnnandale waterhole and camp there which was 10 klms back.

We got there and decided to have the camel curry so I whipped up the meat and cut into

small pieces and soaked it in coconut milk and got the onions and garlic peeled. Got agood fire going for coals and then had a beer or two. Logged in with Charters Towers VKSand then went up with Perry and Norm and Pat to retrieve the brass tap. Got there to findPerry trying to cut the old iron tank around the tap which was rusty but still fairly solid. Afew minutes banging and prodding had he got the tap out so we decided to have a dig inthe old rubbish piles where we all found a bottle or a button or a stopper lid. Back to putthe veggies on and down to the waterhole on sunset for a beer and nibbly. Back up aftersunset and an hour later we we all eating great curry with fresh bread baked by Amanda.We all got carried away with Anyone who can't tap dance must be a poofter, which wenton for ages with a number of variations. Crossed the grand total of 1 dune. Saw a flock ofBrolgas and some budgies and a forest kingfisher and plenty of zebra finches. There were

wedge tail eagles soaring overhead at morning tea.

Day 32 July 30Woke up and packed up to get a good start to Birdsville. Had smoko on the road near anice dune and then onto the road again. It wasn't too long before we were on the QAA andheading towards Birdsville. There were some challenging dunes which as per usual werechopped to bits by the Grey Gonads who don't like to lower their tyre pressures. I wasleading and coming over a big dune when I saw a number of vehicles on the track. As I gotcloser I got and the radio to tell the others they were blocking the road. As I got closer Inoticed that they were all Landies. I pulled up to see that there were a number of D3s anew 110 a new 130 and a group of new Rangies and FreelanderThere were also a bunch of photographers and journos filming them having a go at thedune crossing. We stopped and had a yack and found out they were doing a promo forLand Rover and were going from Sydney to Broome via Alice Springs. They were tying atthe Birdsville Pub so we said we were going down for dinner and would join them for abeer.

We headed off and Amanda had a drive to cross some dunes. The pressure was on Janand I soon had her convinced that she should have go and not be a dune virgin. Shehopped in and the first dune we get to is a really soft one which she failed to cross due tolack of revs. As she backed down the arms were flapping badly as she got more scared.Her second attempt got us over and she successfully crossed the next 5 dunes until wegot to Big Red. She then chickened out and I crossed via the chicken road as I hadcrossed before and had no reason to stress the RT again.

We got the Birdsville and went straight to the pub for a celebratory cleanser to CecilMadigan and the Edjit Tour crossing.

Then off to the river to set up camp and then off to the caravan park and the showers andthe washing machine. That done it was back to camp to get changed and off to the pub fora beer and a feed. All had a great night and we met up with the landy guys and arrangedto have a drive of the new vehicles the next morning. Perry arranged for their technician tohave a look at Gandalf as his ABS and Traction control lights were on from GeosurveysHill run.

All had much too much beer and back to the camp for a fire and a port or three, of to bedat around 11pm the latest night up for the trip.


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Day 33 July 31Up early for a cooked brekkie and then off to met with John the Landy leader for test driveof the new Range Rover Vogue at 9:30am.

Pat Perry and Martyn went first and all came back about hour later raving about what

great unit it was. Jan Amanda Norm and I then had a go and while the girls were quitesedate Norm and I gave it a fair lump of boot. What a great vehicle, V8 diesel, 6 speedauto, 4 stage height selection that can be adjusted automatically or manually. An on-boardcomputer readout showing what each wheel is doing.

Back to the pub in time to go to the Working Museum and see John Menzies put on histour and show. An amazing collection of ll sorts of memorabilia and ll of it works. After hemuseum, it was off to the bakery for a meat pie lunch then back to the pub for a couple.There were nothing but Landies and no other vehicle could could park outside theBirdsville Pub. We then went down to the servo to fill up the bladder with water and Inoticed that the stool had worn a hole in the bladder so we had to go back to camp and put

two plugs on them. I used tryre tube patches with Locktite Contact Adhesive which did thejob. Logged us in on VKS and then we put on a roast pork meal on the coals. This was asusual fantastic and couple of beers to wash it down. It was 31 degrees at 5 pm a veryhot day hence a very large presence of flies!

Day 34 August 1st

The wind got up from the South overnight and was blowing quite strongly by the time wegot up. It continued all day and while the cooler air was more pleasant the wind was a bitof a pain. Vince went into town to fill the water bladder and the patches have worked well.We were on the road out of Birdsville by 8.45 which wasn't too bad as we had everythingout of the RT. We stopped just onto the Cordillo Downs road for Perry to retie his roof rackload as it had come loose. The next stop was a brief photo shoot into the wind at theQld/SA border. Norm the found us a spot for morning tea. Back on the road for 30 minsand we were at Cadelga out station ruins which was on a beautiful water hole. We pokedaround there for a while and then the RT lead out for a while. Lunch was eaten near acreek bed reasonably sheltered from the wind. Norm then suggested we back track akilometer have a look at an old abandoned truck a Thames Trader. Back on the road forCordillo Downs we stopped to view the old woolshed which has been heritage listed andis now open to the public. It was a fantastic old shed well preserved on the outside withan oval roof. The inside was pretty bare. We could see across to the old homestead whichis immaculately preserved and as the station is in use private/no access but I bet theantiques are fantastic!

We spied a very red dune about 15 km's further down the track so Vince and I high tailed itacross country to change Mark's gold coloured sand for some red. We found a piece of theold road very washed out so we used that to get us back on track to meet up with theothers, who were checking out Marrianna Creek for potential camping spots. Norm foundthe spot and soon we were setting up another camp. Vince and Perry quickly had theyabbie traps in the water and after a cuppa tea we all decided to go for a cross countrywalk to investigate a rather attractive dune we had viewed. On the way we spied a greybutcher bird. The dune was fantastic and it had heaps of red sand blowing over it greatphoto opportunities. There was another water hole (more of the same creek) along thewestern base. As we walked back along this we saw a small group of elusive eyrian grasswrens they were running up the dune, in and out of the foliage. A beer or two and on todinner red chicken curry and noodles.

Day 35 August 2nd


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Got up early and started to pack to get going towards Hungerford and Fords Bridge. Firstwe went to the national park and had a look at he woolshed and the Bilby display as wellas the usual root around the old tips.

Packd up nd on the road to Hungerford and the border to Australia (NSW). Had greatsteak sandwich for lunch and then gassed up as we had run out of juice on the way out of

the NP. Got 997 klms on a tank from Birdsville.

On the road after lunch and got to Fords Bridge late and set up camp on the river.Wandered up to the pub nd had a few beers. Met Andrea Rudd who is the publican andshe told us that she had beer a camaleer and had taken her camels on the road for 12moths towing a back the front Millard carava covertd into a wagon with chooks and a vegegarden. Went right across the Simpson and the Odnadatta Track.

Back to camp for a lamb chop curry with Norm and a few beers. The Warrago River wasvery low and muddy and the camp was a bit rough ad ready but OK for an overnighter.

Day 39 August 6

On the road by 8 and off to Bourke to get supplies and then off to Louth. Had a nice cuppaand foccaccia in the Geko Cafe and got some worms and ammo as well. Back on the roadand off to Louth. The road was pretty good ad we got there by lunchtime and the corner onthe fence was already taken. We got s good spot on the fence near where we normallycamp which had a great pile of wood bits and a top pile of old gidgee fence posts. Got setup and had an early night.

Day 40 August 7

Up early with cold Westerly wind blowing. Had a good cooked breakfast and then we allwent for a walk around the race track and Perry and I staged a dogged Olympic walkaround down the main straight for a photo finish. Phil the Dill from manilla arrived and weall set up chairs to watch him setup his new camper.

We had lunch and them we wandered down the river for a fish. Perry and I caught 15 carpand were feeding them to a pelican who got that full that it would not eat anymore andwent over the river and got on the bank to digest them.

Back to camp for a BBQ dinner of lamb chops and spuds in the cols. A few beers and thenoff to bed. Phil fell asleep near the fire and none of us could get him up to go to bed.

Day 41 August 8

Up early and got the fire going. No wind good. Had a nice cooked breakfast and then Patand Perry took off to go to Gundabooka NP. We stayed and decided to go to the schoolfete and then drive down to Tipla Pub for lunch. They put on a nice morning tea allyummy home made things at the fete. I bought a green stone necklace made from jadewood stone and another which I can not remember the name. Vince went with Norm and Iwent with Phil and Robyn to Tilpa. We left the RT guarding firewood and to assist Shep infinding the camp. We had a picnic lunch at the weir on the darling about 5 kms up fromTilpa where we camped last trip. Whilst eating lunch a car full of fishing inspectors turnedup and as Vince had a line in he had to produce his license. Then we went down to Tilpafor a quiet 1 or 3 beers out the back in the pub garden by the river. Checked out the oldsignings and all last trips wall entries were present so did not put more on. Back to campabout 4.30 to get ready for an evening at Shindys. Vince cut up the camel and we put it to


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soak in coconut milk overnight. A big crowd was present for the famous steak sandwichesand the drawing of the calcutta. While there Vince bought a camp oven lifter off Salty theblacksmith. He made it in front of us which was interesting. We tried it out back at campand found it to be a bit big for lid lifting so will need to get it fixed. We had birthday cake forPhil's 50th really on the 6th. While it was a bit rowdy overnight most of the noise wasacross the road and it was certainly, thankfully quieter than previous years.

Day 42 August 9Race day. Cooked breakfast and a cuppa tea or two as we watched the goings on aroundus. Vince got the curry underway. We all got fancied up into our black jackets and what doyou know but Sir Les Patterson made an appearance at the Louth races and joined ourparty for the day. We girls had a champagne starter, the boys wore 50 th balloons on theirhats (except Sir Les) for Phils B'day and the race anniversary and off we went. We got inour usual corner on the hill to watch the days proceedings. I got up 2 winners and a 2nd

place in the first 3 races and then nothing until a 1st in the last but I came out even for theday and that included the purchasing of lunch, drinks and a shirt for Jess. Vince had agood win on a tip he got from Virginia which put him even for the day. The curry was going

well and on the way back to camp after the races Vince saw a girl that worked at CouncilElizabeth and invited her and her friends for a camel curry. After everyone contributedveggies the pot was very full and Vince and Amanda then made nanns to go with the curry.Wash tried to cook rice which held the whole meal up for a time but we soon had theVindaloo on the plate which was very nice indeed. A few more beers and off to bed.

The neighbours were very loud and very dirty with used dunny paper from the girls incamp left under our car. Charming. Put in the ear plugs and slept OK.

Day 43 August 10Typical Sunday morning at Louth. Big brekkie cooked by Phil the Dill and then a lazymorning watching all the young johnnies packing up and pissing off. Had lunch and thenNorm left to head home so goodbyes and hugs and kisses. Spoke to the guys in the nextcamp about he girls in the group who just left and found out they are from Gilganda so Iasked them if they knew the O'Conners. One guy said know them, I am an O'Conner. I toldthem I was off to Goodooga to stay with Bob and would be dropping in to see Mick atDunvegan.

Down to the river for a fish where we caught 27 carp between us all and then packed upand off to Shindy's for a few beers. Back to camp for a long uninterrupted shower and aBBQ dinner then off to sleep early as we had to get up and head off to Goodooga.

Day 44 August 11Up and packing and when done had a long farewell with Martyn and Amanda and also withShep and his sons and Phil and Robyn before heading off to Bourke and then Brewarrinaen route to Bobs. Phil followed us as he was not turning off until Brewarrina to go downthrough Walgett. We stopped at Bourke at the IGA to stock up and then got gas and off tothe bakery for a pie and coffee.

After that we hit the road with the RT in the lead . Phil turned off after Brewarrina and wewent the back way from Bre to Bobs, via the Lanboyd Collerina roads. Long open plainswith lots of stock which kept trying to run under the bull bar. Got to Bob's and went straightto the huts as I had spoken to Tim on Channel 16 on UHF. Once we got unpacked we hadlunch and then headed down to Gnomery where I introduced Pat & Perry to Bob and Tim.Dennis the bloke managing Aberfoyle ws there and we had a good laugh telling tales ofVince and his exploits up there shooting.


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Back to camp where we had a lamb roast cooking in the wood oven. Perry and I went for arun out to back tank and Chinamans and then back to the huts. In with the veggies, get thefire going in the dinning room and then we all jumped in the bore sans togs. Pat & Perrywere very impressed with the bore. Out for a cuppa and then off to bed. Pat and Perrywanted to get up early and head on home.

Day 45 August 12Up and bid farewell to the Numpties after breakfast. We went down to Bob's house to seewhat was on for the day. They had slaughtered a beast for Dennis and Vince gave them ahand to quarter it and hang it in the cool room. Then they killed a couple of pigs 1 for us they had to have their hair removed before they could be hung. After a few more yarnswe went off with Tim to move a pig trap and rebait another. We kept our eyes open forcritters and Vince did shoot a roo. There were heaps of pig rootings but we didn't spy one.We did see a small group of goats and Vince tried to shoot a small one but it turned awayat the crucial moment and fled, to live another day. Back at the sheds, Vince and I hadlunch and then went critter spotting on our own with no luck. We sojourned to the a soakin the bore and were not long out of it I was clothed and Vince not when Bob came up for

a chat and a beer or two. We invited him to stay for dinner and shared BBQ'd pork chopsand Itie snags with him. Tim arrived about 7pm to take Vince out roo shooting with him.Bob went home and I had a bit of a read in front of the fire before tootling off to bed at9.30. Vince got back about 1.30 am. He got 30 good roos with Tim, Vince got a couple offerral cats and despite going to 4 different properties they never saw a pig.

Day 46 August 12

Up after 7 this morning a warmer morning at 5 degrees or so but there the temp sat forquite some time so it ended up being quite a chilly morning. Had a big cooked breakfast onthe BBQ before heading over to Bob's. Vince fiddled around with the shooting buggy,inflating tyres, starting it up and taking it for a quick drive to check brakes. It is in need of anew fuel filter as the boys decided it was starving or deisel. I watched the hockey at theolympics on Bob's TV. Vince then pruned the grape vines and Tim cooked up a BBQ forlunch. After which we sat around in the shed sharing a few tales and a couple of beers.Vince and Tim chopped down a dead gum tree in Bob's stuggling orchard which webrought up to the shed to keep us warm this evening. We left about 3.30 to go over andsay hullo to Mick for a while. Had a cuppa there and me Hayley when she came homefrom teaching. Then we drove around the shed paddock on the way home vince had acouple of shots at roos but they were on the move and the light was failing so we wentback for a soak in the in the bore. BBQ T bone and vegies for dinner and as I type thisVince is asleep with his head on the table. Off to bed as we will be up early to head homeourselves tomorrow.

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