DEEP Surf Magazine—av8, issue 4_July/August 2013

CENTR AL C ALIFORNIA SURFING M AGA ZINE DEEPZINE.COMAUGUST 2013

Josh Gill Photo Essay Setting Sail in the Caribbean Inner View with the Coffins

ADVENTURE ISSUE

Saturday, August 10th, 2013Linden Field in Carpinteria, California

“Beer Festival by the Beach”Tickets & Info: www.deepfest.com / www.deepzine.com

PRESENTED BY

ILLUSTRATION: EMILY BOELSEM

S

The world’s foremost gathering for

surfboard design and innovation

Icons Of Foam Shapeoff

Honoring Terry Martin

Presented By US Blanks

Open To The Public Oct. 5-6 The OC Fair & Events CenterCosta Mesa, Californiaboardroomshow.com

Chunk Of Foam Challenge

More Than 100 Leading Shapers

DIY Create-A-Skate Workshops

Surfboard Appraisals

Art Grotto

Surfboard Glassing Exhibition

“Best In Show” Gallery

Surf Film Lounge

Food And Beverage

RO

CH

E

Nose 115/8”

Width 187/8”

Tail 143/8”

Thickness 21/2”

cisurfboards.com

Tanner Gudauskas | photo: Sherman

Ci_13_TLOW_Deepmag_1pg_ad.pdf 1 6/16/13 7:50 PM

PSH12’ • GUN

PSH10’6 • AA-WIDE

PSH9’6 • RIPPER

PSH9’3 • RIPPER

PSH9’2 • AA-WIDE

STARBOARD12’6 • ALLSTAR

STARBOARD12’ • BIG EASY

STARBOARD10’ • NOSERIDER

STARBOARD8’5 • PRO

STARBOARD7’7 • PRO

24 East Mason Street • Santa Barbara, CA 93101 • 805.845.5606 • bluelinepaddlesurf.com

rider: Sean Poynter • photo: Ben Thouard

Now carrying the full line of SUP's including the NEW Pro Carbon Models for 2013

8 DEEP SURF MAGAZINE August 2013

July/August 2013 > Volume 8 > No. 4Central California Surfing Magazine

EL DIRECTOR:Andres Nuño

EDITOR:Chuck Graham

GRAPHIC DESIGN:Dan Levin

PHOTO CORRECTION:David Levine

ADVERTISING:[email protected]

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS:Andy BowlinCraig ComenBeth CoxNicole de Leon

Derek DoddsGlenn DubockChuck GrahamDan HamlinMichael KewPeggy OkiShawn Tracht

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS:Branden Aroyan Maryann AvilaJustin Bastien Andy Bowlin Chris BurkardLiz ClarkRyan Chachi Craig Nicole de Leon Seth de RouletGlenn DubockCiaran Edwards

Josh GillChuck GrahamLori GrahamMichael KewBrent LiebermanLowe-WhiteTrevor MurphyColin NearmanPeggy OkiJeff PfostJames Pike David Pu’u Titus Ruiz (Artwork)Scott SmithThomas SpillaneShawn Tracht© ASP © ASP/ Kirstin© ASP/Smorigo

SUPPORTING STAFF: Lea Boyd Joel Conroy Peter DugréChelsea Faulkner Betty LloydAmy Orozco PUBLISHER: Mike VanStry, President

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER:Gary L. Dobbins

Owned and Operated by RMG Ventures, LLCCarpinteria, CA 93013 Tel: 805.684.4428 General Inquiries & Submissions:[email protected]

COVER SHOT: Teahupoo is the best wave on the planet for shooting pass by barrel shots.

Andrew Bennett deep in the pit and eyeing an exit.

PHOT

O: SE

TH D

E ROU

LET

DEEPZINE.COM

deepsurfmag #deepsurfmag

DEEP Surf Magazine @DEEPSurfMag

DEEP Surf Magazine

ALSO VISIT

AVAILABLE FOR FREE.

Starry, starry night.

PHOT

O: CH

RIS B

URKA

RD


34

50

60

24

24 INNER VIEW WITH THE COFFINS Story by Glenn Dubock • Photos by Dubock.com, Seth de Roulet, Josh Gill, Branden Aroyan Surf etched into their DNA, Conner and Parker Coffin seem to walk on water as naturally as they walk on land. DEEP gets the Santa Barbara brothers out of the ocean for a few minutes to reflect on local living, favorite waves and which grom they pin as the next Central Coast success story.

34 SAILING AND SURFING SUPER STORM SANDYStory and Photos by Andy BowlinAndy Bowlin and friends turn Super Storm Sandy’s lemons into lemonade in this adventure tale that stars a yacht, a few wave chasers and some Dramamine. The moral of the story is that risk has its rewards, in this case fat barrels, pristine beaches and cold beer.

50 JOSH GILL PHOTO ESSAY STORY Story by Chuck GrahamIt’s only fitting that a guy with the last name Gill would be a common visitor to the liquid environment. Josh Gill not only spends his time atop a surfboard in the saltwater, he’s just as often behind a camera lens in the deep blue. The jaw-dropping results of those many hours are sampled in this issue’s photo essay.

60 CRUSADE FOR DOLPHINSStory by Peggy Oki • Photos by Ciaran Edwards, Oki, James Pike, Justin BastienMost surfers have developed a kinship with marine mammals, and Central Coast resident Peggy Oki has acted in defense of these sea-dwelling family members over and over again. This time Oki’s focus is on the Maui’s dolphin, a small animal endemic to New Zealand that hovers on the brink of extinction. Killed as bycatch in outdated fishing practices, these dolphins need our help.

Letter from the Editor 12News 14Northern Exposure 16Comen Sense 18Tidelines 20White Knuckle Slog 22Shaper’s Bay 30Ladies Room 32Center Stage 40Board Trachting 56Product Reviews 58Travel New England 66Green Room 64

Shore’s United 72FEATURES

DUBOCK.COM ANDY BOWLINCIARAN EDWARDSJOSH GILL

43SURF 'N' SUDS BEER FESTIVAL PROGRAM

We hope you join us for our first DEEP Surf 'n' Suds Beer Festival on Saturday, August 10th in Carpinteria. Check out the program with all the information about the breweries, music, surfboard shapers, videographers and all the great things to do at Surf 'n' Suds.

TICKETS AVAILABLE AT WWW.DEEPFEST.COM

HOYTE SURFBOARDS HAVE ARRIVED!

154 E. Thompson Blvd., Ventura • (805) 652-2201 • wavefrontsurfshop.com

— Wavefront Surf Shop —

SURFBOARD SALE ON 3 MODELS!

6’3” and under: $4756’4” - 7’3”: $5157’4” - 8’3”: $555

Mini Symster Twynzer Daily Dose California SpudCalifornia Spud

Sale ends 8/15/2013. Pricing includes 1 color paint on 1 side of the board. Additional colors available for additional charge. Prices includes sand fi nish.

Fins sold separately. $200 deposit required at time of order. Must mention ad for sale pricing.

Visit our booths at Surf ‘n’ Suds Beer Festival!

Sale is for Custom Orders Only!


LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Andy Bowlin Photographer

A native of San Luis Obispo County, Bowlin grew up surfing and fishing the coast of Central California. He captures some of his favorite images from the small beach town of Cayucos where he has lived for the past 10 years. His main passion is combining his two loves, surfing and photography, to create amazing images. He

graduated from the California Polytechnic State University SLO with a bachelor's degree in Parks, Recreation, and Tourism with a minor in Photography.

Josh Gill Photographer

Josh Gill is a 30-year-old photographer from Lompoc. Surfing since childhood, his passion has resided in the ocean. Today Gill spends most of his time searching for new and creative ways to capture not only just the ocean and the waves, but also the lifestyle and the sport of surfing.

Seth de Roulet Photographer

Seth de Roulet is a photographer on a mission. He is a world traveler, surfer, skateboarder, and a hard working dad. He enjoys all things outdoors, hanging with his family and watching the Jets lose on Sundays. When he’s not shooting you can usually find him in Summerland editing

photos and making up nicknames, like Smooshie T. Wobbleson, for his son.

WHO’S ON BOARD?

Scott Smith Photographer

Born on the Central Coast of California, Scott Smith’s surf adventures began at a young age, with his father who has been surfing the area since the mid-1960s. Smith earned a bachelor’s degree in Visual

Arts from Cal State San Marcos, then returned to school to study still imagery at Santa Monica College, recently transitioning from black and white film to the digital realm, with a focus on documenting the human experiment, emotion over technicality and classic above modern.

Some of my best most memorable experiences occur just outside the backdoor. Blessed with great parents who raised me on the beach between the islands and the Santa Ynez Mountains, I didn’t have anything to complain about, and I still don’t. I can’t get enough of where I live. Not only are the South and Central Coasts some of

the most scenic and diverse places in the world, they’re also in close proximity to the mountains, deserts and plains. Life is good. So good in fact, I love the adventurous possibilities here as much as I do abroad. There’s plenty to do if you want to make it happen.

Surfing is still my first choice, but when it’s flat I don’t fret. There’s always something to get ready for.

You’ll find some of that in this issue of DEEP, which is devoted to the adventurous lifestyle. Surfing certainly fits this category with so many facets of the sport ascending to new heights. Fortunately travel is one of those, and travel is one of the best educations out there.

Michael Kew finds his wish list in North America, this time in the northeast, and Central Coast photographer Andy Bowlin and friends find surf in the warm waters of the Caribbean. Long-time contributor Glenn Dubock delves into the dynamic lives of the Coffin brothers, and the possibilities are certainly wide open for them.

In between adventures, join us for our first ever DEEP Surf ‘n’ Suds Beer Festival on Saturday, August 10th, 2013 in Carpinteria. We included a program for Surf 'n' Suds in the center of the magazine. Not only will there be brews to sample, local shapers will also have their boards on display, surf flicks will be shown all day and three bands will be playing.

Our annual Adventure Issue doesn’t mean you need to leave your home to venture out. It can mean perspective, growth, broadened horizons, but don’t underestimate your homeland.

PHOT

O: D

UBOC

K.CO

M

Enjoy.

Chuck Graham

PHOTO: LORI GRAHAM

W A L N U T S E R I E S

MISS ION

Surf Inspired Swallowtail / True KicktailPhotos : Matt Smith

14 W. Anapamu St. Santa Barbara, CA 93101805.845.1022 arborcollective.com

2013_DEEP_MAG_AD_ARBOR.indd 1 6/13/13 5:47 PM

14 DEEP SURF MAGAZINE August 2013 www.DEEPZINE.com 15

After winning the first event on the 2013 ASP World Tour, the Quiksilver Pro on the Gold Coast of Australia, Kelly Slater experienced a shocker at Bells Beach. From there the 11-time world champ righted the ship with a steady =5th in Brazil to maintain a contender’s pace while keeping well within striking distance of the current top slot.

Slater did just that in the Volcom Fiji Pro, dominating the competition at Tavarua, first at Restaurants and then finishing up at pumping 10- to 12-foot Cloudbreak. In the final Slater went against Australian Mick Fanning, as the two competitors went tit for tat, trading heaving barrels.

In an earlier round heat Slater scored two perfect 10s. He didn’t need perfection in the final heat, but he came close beating the fiery Fanning 19.80 to 15.87. It was Slater’s fourth victory at the infamous left reef, and it catapulted him into the ratings lead heading immediately into the next event in Indonesia.

Lakey Peterson currently finds herself in the sixth position on the Women’s World Championship Tour. Her last three results producing two =5ths and a =3rd, proves the Santa Barbara local is finding some consistency on the women’s world stage.

WSURF.COM TIDE CHART Not to be used for navigation. Do not rely on data for decisions that can result in harm to anyone or anything.

11:02am

5:47pm1.715.26

MON 01 TUE 09 TUE 23FRI 05 FRI 19FRI 12 FRI 26WED 03 WED 17THU 11 THU 25SUN 07 SUN 21SUN 14 SUN 28TUE 02 TUE 16 TUE 30WED 10 WED 24SAT 06 SAT 20SAT 13 SAT 27THU 04 THU 18MON 08 MON 22MON 15 MON 29

9:29am

4:31pm1.855.12

10:393:24

3.752.25

10:253:40

4.581.5

8:597:51

3.445.72

8:147:18

3.616.48

5:455:13

-0.212.26

6:106:20

-0.551.4

7:157:50

0.672.32

8:162:59

1.355.01

7:076:33

3.175.43

10:395:29

2.125.55

11:093:58

3.843.58

11:064:31

4.811.37

9:372:14

3.562.3

9:018:08

3.976.84

6:145:55

0.012.31

6:507:21

0.041.53

7:512:41

1.074.52

9:074:00

1.934.99

8:117:14

3.35.59

7:166:25

3.266.03

11:394:34

3.922.23

11:475:24

4.981.34

10:092:50

3.662.28

9:442:48

4.31.7

6:446:46

0.312.34

7:322:04

0.75.06

8:343:33

1.484.78

10:135:04

2.365.05

WETSAND SURF SHOP 446 Main Street, VenturaJULY 2013 Tide Chart Ventura, CA

JULY 2013 Tide Chart Ventura, CA

NEWS

ASPUPDATE

Setting the Pace BY CHUCK GRAHAM

Slater is a 4-time winner at Cloudbreak.

Lakey maintaining position on the

women's World Tour.

PHOTO: ASP/ROBERTSON

PHOTO: ASP/SMORIGO

Celebrating.

PHOTO: ASP/KIRSTIN

Ventura’s Sage Erickson on the other hand is still struggling and will more than likely have to re-qualify through the Women’s Star Events. Thus far her best result is a =9th, not nearly enough to maintain a top ranking.

www.DEEPZINE.com 15WSURF.COM TIDE CHART Not to be used for navigation. Do not rely on data for decisions that can result in harm to anyone or anything.

11:02am

5:47pm1.715.26

MON 01 TUE 09 TUE 23FRI 05 FRI 19FRI 12 FRI 26WED 03 WED 17THU 11 THU 25SUN 07 SUN 21SUN 14 SUN 28TUE 02 TUE 16 TUE 30WED 10 WED 24SAT 06 SAT 20SAT 13 SAT 27THU 04 THU 18MON 08 MON 22MON 15 MON 29

9:29am

4:31pm1.855.12

10:393:24

3.752.25

10:253:40

4.581.5

8:597:51

3.445.72

8:147:18

3.616.48

5:455:13

-0.212.26

6:106:20

-0.551.4

7:157:50

0.672.32

8:162:59

1.355.01

7:076:33

3.175.43

10:395:29

2.125.55

11:093:58

3.843.58

11:064:31

4.811.37

9:372:14

3.562.3

9:018:08

3.976.84

6:145:55

0.012.31

6:507:21

0.041.53

7:512:41

1.074.52

9:074:00

1.934.99

8:117:14

3.35.59

7:166:25

3.266.03

11:394:34

3.922.23

11:475:24

4.981.34

10:092:50

3.662.28

9:442:48

4.31.7

6:446:46

0.312.34

7:322:04

0.75.06

8:343:33

1.484.78

10:135:04

2.365.05

WETSAND SURF SHOP 446 Main Street, VenturaJULY 2013 Tide Chart Ventura, CA

JULY 2013 Tide Chart Ventura, CA

Surfing for HopeBY SHAWN TRACHT

Central Coast Surfer Bob Voglin is inspiring locals in the fight against cancer. After surviving throat cancer, Voglin began the Surfing for Hope Foundation to raise money for those battling cancer. He teamed up to donate all proceeds to the Hearst Cancer Resource Center (HCRC) at

French Hospital in San Luis Obispo, and in his first year he raised $61,000. Surfing for Hope is a series of events that are designed to help inspire people challenged by

cancer through the positive energy of surfing. “Surfing is the ideal format to help people in this situation by showing how positive and healthy our sport is and it gives the surfing community the opportunity to give back to people in need by sharing what we love,” said Voglin. “We are very excited about our second year and hope you will join us for this incredible event!”

This year, the Surfing for Hope events will take place on September 20 and 21, in Avila Beach and Pismo Beach. There will be a memorial paddle out on Friday, September 20 at 4 p.m. at the Avila Beach Golf Resort, and a luau benefit dinner will take place at 6 p.m. The longboard contest will take place on Saturday, September 21 at the Pismo Beach Pier at 7 a.m.

Since opening its doors in 2008, HCRC has had more than 32,000 visits and contacts from cancer patients and family members, as well as many com-munity organizations.

Tickets to the luau benefit dinner and donations can be made at www.surfingforhope.com/donate-fundraise, or by calling (805) 542-6496.

Paddle Out for HopeBY BETH COX

As a supplement to Relay For Life Carpinteria, the Paddle Out For Hope/Judith Meyer Fight Back Ceremony will take place on Sunday, July 21 at 9 a.m. at Linden Beach. Last year the Relay for Life Carpinteria successfully put on the first ever Paddle Out for Hope as part of the annual

American Cancer Society Relay for Life and is proud to host this annual event.When one passes in our community, suffers, or needs support, we embrace the history,

somberness and celebration of a paddle out. For the purpose of this event, it is intended to be a celebration of life for those who are surviving cancer, a remembrance for those we have lost, and a tool to fight back against cancer by promoting a healthy active life-style, well-being, and spirituality.

Judith Meyer, an avid advocate and volunteer for the American Cancer Society, lost her battle to Cancer last July. We are honoring and memorializing her efforts and spirit. Her son,

Deputy District Attorney Wesley Meyer, will be speaking at the ceremony, and has recruited the entire Santa Barbara County District Attorney’s of-fice to be a part of something his mother loved.

We have a vision of utilizing our coastal body of water to paddle toward a world with more birthdays and less cancer!

Relay For Life Carpinteria is July 20 through 21 starting at 10 a.m. at Linden Field.

For information, and to pre-register for the paddle out visit www.relayforlife.org/carpinteria.

Cancer Crusaders

Slater is a 4-time winner at Cloudbreak.

PHOT

O: TH

OMAS

SPILL

ANE

The Avila Beach memorial paddle out in 2012.

Channel Islands dominated the Northwest regional qualifier at Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz to get to the semis. Led by Kilian Garland, Pat Curren, Brandon Smith and Pat Ecker, Channel Islands earned their trip to Bali for the championships. “I was super stoked to get that wave and it’s rad being able to win, as the level of talent in Santa Cruz is always so high. Those guys rip,” said Garland after the win.

Sunrise Surf Shop won their third OSSC National Championship.

Local Shops make Semi-Finals of Oakley Surf Shop Challenge

Over 300 surfers from seven shops around the U.S. competed at seven regional stops of the Oakley Surf Shop Challenge (OSSC) and two local shops, Ca-marillo’s Revolution Surf Co., and Santa Barbara’s Channel Islands Surf Shop,

made some noise and surfed their way to the semi-finals at Keramas in Bali. Revolution—2004 National Champion—was edged out by .04 points in a heart-breaker against

7th Street (Northeast), while Channel Islands also lost in the semis. To get to the semis, Revolution took out the competition, including defending National Champ

Jack’s Surfboards (Huntington Beach), in Newport Beach to represent the West Region. The team consisted of Nathaniel Curran, David Dittmar, Jake Kelley and Taylor Curran.

Channel Island Surf Shop team from left, Pat Curren, Kilian Garland, Brandon Smith and Pat Ecker.

Revolution Surf Co. team from left, Nathaniel Curran, David Dittmar, Jake Kelley and Taylor Curran.

PHOTO: LOWE-W

HITE

PHOT

O: RY

AN CH

ACHI

CRAI

G


Friesen.

It’s funny how our perspectives change as we get older. I remember the first time I surfed the Rock at Morro Bay; it was a foggy and cold winter morning with head high waves breaking in front of the parking lot. I wasn’t very good at the time, but just adept enough to make it through the impact zone to the outside. Shortly into that session, after riding a wave to the inside, I began the paddle back out into

the lineup when a set approached. I scratched to make it out before the first wave broke, but to no avail. The set demolished me, (or so I thought at the time). My second-hand, oversized wetsuit got flushed with the icy Pacific and immediately took my breath away. As the wave rolled me underwater, I clawed for the surface, only to reach it just in time to see the next wave breaking right in front of me. After the second wave, I scrambled onto my board and rode the white water in on my belly, convinced I’d almost died. From then on, everything north of Pismo Beach seemed to have a mysterious aura about it for me. To go north meant to go into the wild, to venture into the mysterious and unknown.

Dave Friesen, a.k.a. Mouse, was raised along the same stretch of coast that seemed so dangerous and mysterious to me as a kid. Growing up in Cayucos and attending high school in Cambria, he spent his childhood exploring and surfing the waves north of Morro Bay. This was before the Internet and phone-in surf reports, when the only forecasts came from weather radios, and surf spots were still being discovered in California. He and his buddies would, as he says, “search the coastline for surf spots or even the rumors of surf spots” in hopes of scoring.

As you can imagine, growing up in such a small town produced a fairly tight-knit community of surfers. When talking with Friesen, he’s intentional on pointing out the role his peers and elders played in his life. “I looked up to Casimir Pulaski, a local legend who was attacked by a 20-foot white shark; he punched it in the nose while distance paddling off Montaña De Oro. He also pioneered some of our heaviest waves back in the late ‘60s. Craig Barkly, one of the most innovative and knowledgeable surfers on our coast, made an impression on me. I also looked up to the Parmenter brothers and guys like Jerry Grantham and Whitey. They were all hardcore surfers in my eyes.”

This was an interesting time for surfing in California, particularly the Central Coast. Curiosity grew about what this stretch of coastline was holding, and eventually led to some media

NORTHERN EXPOSURE

PerspectivesSTORY BY DAN HAMLIN PHOTOS BY MARYANN AVILA

exposure. Not everyone was pleased with the publicity. “The surf world was in full swing to find reefs that no one had ever surfed,” explains Friesen. “There were two groups that developed: the group of surfers who wanted the magazines to stay away, and the group who wanted them to come. I could see both perspectives.”

Friesen developed into a competitive surfer and eventually started competing in some Bud Pro Tour events. He also joined the first surf rescue team put together by the Cayucos Fire Department. Equipped with just a zodiac boat and some paddleboards, their boundaries ranged from Montaña De Oro State Park to Estero Point. He has seen a lot over the years, but still lights up when he gets talking about his childhood coastline. For Friesen, it’s not just about the waves he’s scored over the years; it’s about all the little things that make it so special.

And this coastline is special. Even today, whenever I head north on Highway 1 I get the same feeling I did as a kid on my way to the Rock for the first time: the feeling of adventure and endless possibilities.

Josh Mulcoy lost in light.

Dave Friesen, a.k.a. Mouse, picking a line.

www.DEEPZINE.com 17

Any Season. Any Reason.

Pismo Beach

www.SeaCrestPismo.com | 800.782.8400

The Iconic Pismo Beach Hotel• 5-Acre Park-Like Setting• Direct Beach Access• Free WiFi• Free Continental

Breakfast• In-Room Dining &

Beverage Service• Pet-Friendly

Surf. Sleep.Repeat.


always root for the underdog or want the home team to lose.But there’s one thing I realize more and more everyday: going into the ocean is an act of

beauty, love, obsession, addiction and escape. Could all those things add up to adventure? Sure, why not?

After reading the big surf mags and looking at all the crazy pictures these days of huge wave riding, aerial acrobatics and athletic amazement, I can only give thanks that even a ride on a belly board, surf mat, Alaia, or park bench is as good as any other venture into the water.

Do not let the surf travel companies fool you; they are not selling adventure. You can stay at home and do the same. They are selling perfection and bliss. I am not sure if the two go together as adventurers often have to endure major suffering to reap the rewards and find the treasure at the end of the voyage.

No boss, no teacher, no service representative, no traffic meter cop can take away your sense of accomplishment if you just realize that your session was something most humans will never do. The fear of the ocean and its creatures scares the heck out of Joe Public, and they still look at surfers in a way as outcasts, daredevils and misfits. Well, let them.

We are a tribe of enthusiasts, longing for the childlike fun of our youth and any way you look at it. It all translates into ADVENTURE.

IJust look online and you can see that the term is misused in so many cases. A Google search came up with 814 million search results for the word that is defined by dictionary.com as, “exciting or very unusual experience.”

So is surfing an adventure? You damn well bet it is. Every time you step off of the sand or rocks, you are doing something extraordinary. You don’t need to be trekking across the desert of Namibia to find a fabled left, or scaling the cliffs of a rocky Northern California bluff to get a bumpy mirage of a wave.

Just leaving the solid ground and capitalizing on the surface tension of water is an adventure in itself. There will be those who argue against me, and I welcome them. At the heart of it all, I

COMEN SENSE

Adventure Is a HoaxBY CRAIG COMEN

PHOT

O: CH

UCK G

RAHA

M

The author exploring the Lost Coast in

Northern California.

Beach Gear for everyone in the family!

Rincon Designs Surf ShopSURFBOARDS BY

659 LINDEN AVE DOWNTOWN • 805.684.2413 • M-S 9a-7p, SUN 10a-6pRINCONDESIGNS.NET

Phot

o J.

P.

www.DEEPZINE.com 19

in Goleta

SHAPE YOUR OWN BOARD.starting at $450Includes Blank, Glass Job, Fins for boards 5-8 - 6-6.

your one stop surf shop

Serving Goleta for 16+ yrs

Revolution Hardwaresurfboards

Available ONLY at Surf Country

(805) 683.4450

surfcountry.net

open dailymon.-sat.,

10-7p Sunday, 10-5P

FULL STOCK OF

NEW & USED SURFBOARDSmax mcdonald

doug roth monarch eclipsewindigo

lessons &

rentalsskateswetsuits& more

ding repairs

Visit our tent atSURF ‘N’ SUDSBEER FESTIVAL

109 S. Fairview Ave.


There’s ice on the deck. Holding ales with gloved hands, we admire the hallucinatory reflection of snowy cliffs across this tranquil, funnel-shaped anchorage that globally drifts with Siberia and

south Greenland.Trevor is fly-fishing. Swish-swish-swish. He whips the

line to-and-fro off the transom many times but hooks nothing. The bottom here is hard mud. The water is hunter green. The time is 10:30 p.m., but still the sky glows blue.

Pausing, Trevor looks shoreward and swigs from a bottle of stout. Halfway hidden on the forested beach, he sees three old wooden cabins that wait for summer.

“Somebody’s idea of a good time right there,” Captain Mike says from the barbecue, his chin bisecting the gray fish smoke.

“Lonely,” Trevor says.“Yeah, unless you’ve got it packed full of Bush Company dancers.” (laughs)The Great Alaskan Bush Company, Mike means. Look it up.A shaggy white male mountain goat grazes fairly low above the pit of the anchorage, above

the cabins, on a steep cliff.“It’s amazing where you see them,” Mike says, flipping the lingcod fillets. “They do fall

sometimes.”“Why would they be there and not up where it’s not so steep?” Trevor asks.“Snow is up there,” Mike says, pointing at the top of the slope, then lowering his arm. “Grass is down here. Good munchin’ spot.”In a month or two, the goat will browse in high alpine meadows and eat shrubs, herbs, and

grass at leisure. For now, though, he risks life to live. Like us. Sort of.The Gulf of Alaska has a surface area of 592,000 square miles. This leaves plenty of room to

cause trouble. In winter, the Gulf is a weather kitchen, a sea of severity, a near-constant stream of cyclones and anticyclones. Sixty-foot waves with 100-knot winds are routine. Depressions twist east from Japan, stalling once they hit the Gulf and, trapped, they mutate and shove the north swell down to western North America and eastern Oceania. North swells deny the south-facing Kenai Fjords. We need south.

But this is a fjord and there is swell in the marine forecast; the charts show a pair of modest, local low-pressure systems with favorable fetch. Anchor up. We move.

“It’s a good reason to feel optimistic instead of just feeling hopeful,” Mike says, watching a bald eagle soar in the updraft; its spearing blackness contrasts the white snow bowl of a hanging valley. Below, the raptor has steep slopes and shale landslides that are chalky brown and laced with thin snowmelt waterfalls. It’s late April — Alaska is beginning to thaw. Soon, bears will

be everywhere. Post-Memorial Day until September, this fjord will be flush with cruise ships and fishing boats because the town is a major fishing hub, the ninth most-lucrative fisheries port in the United States.

A diehard surfer and ex-merchant marine, Mike isn’t thrilled about other gloomy fishing towns like Yakutat and Dutch Harbor, for example. He’s had to work in and around them since he moved from Hawaii to Alaska to work at a fish cannery in the summer of ‘76.

“What’s Yakutat like?”“Small. Some good waves over there.”“Dutch Harbor?”“Drunk.” (laughs)He leans and steers the ship with its wooden wheel. It’s the first time I’ve seen him do this.“Don’t you always steer with the compass?” I asked.He nodded. “It just started acting funny. Maybe it blew a fuse, or a wire’s loose, or there’s a

bunch of iron in that mountain and it threw the compass crazy. Happens sometimes.”We approach the fjord’s entrance or in this case, the exit. Instantly the scene shifts. Out here,

the wind howls from the east, deeply corrugating the open ocean. The boat lurches and dips in the raw sea.

“At least we’re looking at waves now,” Mike says.We surf till the sky bleeds gray and the air is seized by an onshore gale. We’re finished. Beer

and books back in the calm anchorage. Cozy downtime again.In the late afternoon, we buzz the skiff to the hidden entrance of a tiny cove. Along the

shore are the skeletal remains of a bulldozer, barn, and a termite-wrecked cabin. Through falling snowflakes, I see “Herring Pete” and Josephine Sather tending to their noisy fox farm here. But they abandoned this place in 1961, and the barn’s decay, scented with river otter dung, makes me sneeze. Pete was also a reputedly ripe and eccentric guy, but his rarely washed clothes smelling like fish. His wife was an obsessive clean-freak, which forced Pete to take cold showers after his fishing trips, even mid-winter.

Admiring his scenic view out over the cove, I pictured Pete shivering wet in the bathroom while Josephine stirred a hot pot of fox stew. But while I was foolishly standing in snow, I realized I was the one shivering.

TIDELINES

Bears Will Be EverywhereSTORY AND PHOTO BY MICHAEL KEW

Trevor Gordon at Gore Point, Alaska.


I knew I was in for it, but it was necessary. Fresh from a trip to New York City, my well-being had been violated. Nothing but cement and bricks and something called Central Park to get away from it all. I needed to wash away the stench, the grime, to drown out the noise and get back to what I know. I needed to paddle into the fray.

I reveled in the last day of winter, kayaking headlong into the first day of spring. I paddled for 35 glassy miles from Yellow Banks on the southern tip of Santa Cruz Island to Johnson's Lee on Santa Rosa Island. Never alone, I shared the pulse of a southerly swell swooping me up the backside of the islands. Flotillas of surf scooters hummed as they flew by me, a humpback whale slapped its tail on the surface—the only blemish in the Santa Cruz Channel—and a pair of tiny murrelets bobbed near my kayak, not a care in their pelagic world.

It’s always an effort approaching the southeast end of Santa Rosa Island. Swirling currents mimic a sort of force field before allowing me to feel the sand between my toes. I inhaled slices of dry salami and cheese, an energy bar, an apple, a hard-boiled egg and a shot of goo. Bad table manners aside, I was good to go until the sun sank beyond South Point.

The stiff northwest wind was my early morning wakeup call. With steady 15 to 25 miles-

per-hour winds, it was going to be slow going to Sandy Point, let alone San Miguel Island. After about 12 miles of paddling into the northwesterly winds, I was a little tired and cold.

I was about a quarter mile off Sandy Point, and San Miguel seemed like a mere stones throw away. A canopy of bladder kelp was a welcome reprieve from pelting saltwater glancing off my bow. I weighed the risk, the winds were gusting to 30 mph, and the swell started increasing. San Miguel would have to wait another day. I made a hard right inside a knobby witches hat, and left behind the wind waves clapping around me. Still, I didn’t breathe easy until paddling beneath Canada Garanon.

The beach at Arlington Canyon was a flotsam of tangled bull kelp, bleached driftwood and punctured buoys. “Gale force winds are in effect,” crackled my radio over building northwesterly winds. “Thirty to 40 mph winds with gusts to 50.” Just to make things interesting the radio also blurted out short interval wind waves in the 7 to 11 foot range. It also said there would be a short lull in wind velocity in the late morning. It was now or never. My first attempt off the beach didn’t go well. Shoaling and offshore reefs off the north shore of Santa Rosa are extensive, which means waves can break at least a half-mile off the island. There was no channel. I was paddling

S T O R Y A N D P H O T O S B Y C H U C K G R A H A M

White Knuckle SlogWhite Knuckle Slog

www.DEEPZINE.com 23

into the wind taking 4-foot waves over the bow. About 100 yards off the beach, a wave broached my port and launched me out of my blue Necky Kayak, washing me to shore. I was back on the beach before I knew it.

I made it out on my second attempt, but I couldn’t hug the island anymore. By the time I reached Carrington Point, I’d capsized at least five more times in two hours of kayaking. Despite those heaving seas, I couldn’t help but marvel at the biodiversity surrounding Carrington Point. Thick ocean spray hovered in the cool air like a wet blanket. Its hillsides were acid green and below western gulls clung to its wave-battered cliffs. More seabirds swooped in from all directions as baitfish congregated around the point. Hungry sea lions torpedoed beneath my boat, and for a brief moment I forgot about the horrific sea conditions.

After rounding Carrington Point, I wanted to rest inside Bechers Bay. I was approaching Coati Point when things grew dire. Coati Point looks like a bony, crooked finger extending off the island. I was about 200 yards off the island paddling toward the point when on my left and about two paddle lengths away a head-high wave sucked out over a submerged rock. I immediately noticed the ocean boiling all

around me and knew I was about to paddle onto a reef. I did a 180, spinning my kayak around just in time to be slammed by two more waves over the bow. Amazing enough I didn’t come unglued from my kayak, but it was enough to make me forget about a breather so I continued paddling into the fray. That meant crossing the Santa Cruz Channel again.

The west end of Santa Cruz Island was at least 8 miles east of me. I was paddling hard, milking that late morning lull predicted on the radio, knowing it wouldn’t last across the channel. About two miles off the island, waves were capping frequently. A larger wave with a deep trough catapulted me. While swimming for my kayak, another wave broke on me and I momentarily lost sight of my kayak. It was blue on blue. After clambering back in, I stayed clear of the cliffs and surfed lumpy swells while peering over my left shoulder.

After rounding Punta Gorda, it was as if someone had shut a window. Everything slowed down. I finally had rhythm in my paddling stroke, the ocean a tranquil, shimmering blue. It felt like the last day of winter blown straight into the first day of spring.

Fresh water estuary at

Arlington Canyon.

Taking a breather on the backside of Santa Cruz Island.

Contemplating San Miguel.

An “Inner View” with Conner and

Parker CoffinB Y G L E N N D U B O C K


Brothers between sessions.

Parker fins free.

— continued

www.DEEPZINE.com 25

It’s almost scary to think about how fast Conner and Parker Coffin have grown up from groms to phenoms.

Under the watchful eyes and tutelage of family, friends, and coaches, these two young lads have crisscrossed the surf globe and can be seen in publications and social media sites around the world.

I thought that this time in their lives would be a good point for them to pause and reflect on all that they have seen and what traveling away from and coming home to Santa Barbara means to them. Rather than rehash the same old questions that they have answered countless times before, I asked

them to pose each other the questions they felt would yield the answers that would give an inside look—or inner view—of where they stand right now.

What is it like growing up in a “surf rich” community with a somewhat lack of waves and would you change that if you could?Parker Coffin: We seem to get really good waves when they do come, but we don’t have the common source of waves on a daily basis like a lot of other places. Obviously it would be amazing to surf everyday. It’s hard to try and improve consistently when the waves are few and far between.

Conner positioning at Backdoor.

PHOTOS: DUBOCK.COM

Conner pitted.

PHOT

OS: D

UBOC

K.CO

M


However, I feel like when there are actually good waves I appreciate them more and try harder since we don’t surf everyday. I would like to surf more on a daily basis because I think it helps you improve by muscle memory. Conner Coffin: I think that living in Santa Barbara makes it a little bit tricky to be a pro surfer. We get such fun waves in wintertime but then during summertime it’s really flat. It makes you super hungry for surf and you have to work to get waves. The quality of waves that we get in the wintertime is so much better than Southern California and I think it has a huge influence on the surfing that we do here. If you look at the people who have come out of here in the past, such as Curren, Dane and Bobby, they all have one thing in common, which is incredibly fluid and powerful surfing. I think the waves we surf engrave that into our styles.

Would you rather have mediocre waves every day or really good waves once in a while with flat spells in between?PC: I don’t know ... I like the idea of being able to surf everyday, but a lot of average waves

Conner & Parker Coffin

Dynamic surfing is a Coffin trademark. Here Parker is about to pull in.

Conner airing out.

www.DEEPZINE.com 27

PHOT

O: B

RAND

EN A

ROYA

N

Conner carving his way to the 2013 Rincon Classic Pro Division title.

From left, Parker, Dave Letinsky and Conner Coffin.

PHOT

OS: D

UBOC

K.CO

M

Parker on a deep bottom turn.

PHOT

O DU

BOCK

.COM


to live in such a beautiful place. Out of everywhere I have been I still rank Santa Barbara as one of my favorite places. So many people try hard to get out of town,

but it seems like you make an effort to come back into town.CC: Traveling around the world has made me love Santa Barbara so much. A lot of people who haven’t left Santa Barbara take it for granted but once you get away you realize how special it really is.

What keeps you looking forward to coming home so much?PC: To be completely honest, everything about Santa Barbara makes me want to come back. My family, friends, food, waves, and just the town itself. I love everything about being home and it makes me happy. So I guess I try to come back to be happy, ha-ha.CC: There are lots of reasons that I love to go home to Santa Barbara but there are two main reasons.

The number one reason is for me is to spend time with my family. The hardest part about traveling is spending a long time away from them, so it is always great to get home and see them.

can sometimes get boring. I freak out during flat spells though. I’ll take the daily waves! CC: I go through phases of wishing I could just surf something every day, or surf really good waves every once in a while ... that’s a super tough question.

What is your favorite part of living in Santa Barbara?PC: It’s just the best place ever. I don’t even know how to explain how amazing it is, but it’s just my happy place. The people, the food, the beautiful mountains, the ocean; it just has everything I could ever ask for. CC: It’s tough to pick one because there are so many reasons. I would have to say that it’s being close to all of my family and also living on a beautiful part of the coastline with great waves. I feel like Santa Barbara is a very unique and special place. I’m so grateful to have grown up here.

Describe your perfect day at home.PC: Wake up, go over to Tre Lune for breakfast, go for a surf or something with my dad and my brother, and then barbecue with my friends and family in the backyard.CC: My perfect day at home would be to wake up early on a clear crisp winter morning to go surf with my dad and brother, then go to breakfast at Tre Lune with our family. Go home and cruise and play some guitar and maybe hang out with some friends. Then go surf again in the afternoon at pumping Rincon. After surfing head home and have some friends over to barbecue a tri-tip and hang out.

Do you think traveling around the world at such a young age has made you appreciate living in a place like Santa Barbara even more?PC: Absolutely, 100 percent. Seeing so many places in the world makes me realize how lucky I am

Conner laying it out.

PHOT

O: S

ETH

DE R

OULE

T

Is the World Tour on the horizon for the older Coffin brother?

PHOT

O: D

UBOC

K.CO

M

Conner clearing the pier.

PHOT

O: JO

SH G

ILL

www.DEEPZINE.com 29

The list of professional surfers from the 805 area code is world class. Who have you looked up to throughout your developmental stages?PC: So many people have influenced me to become the person I am today. For surfing obviously the local heroes like Tom Curren, Dane Reynolds, and Bobby Martinez have been a huge inspiration. But a lot of people who aren’t super well known surfers in the area have been super influential on the way I surf. JP Garcia,

Toma Tomasuri, and David Letinsky have helped me so much throughout the years and I owe them a lot. Also guys like Blake Howard, Travis Lee, Mike Walters, and Alex McGeever have always been awesome and really helped me improve. It’s such a good area to be a surfer, and the whole community has been really supportive since day one. CP: For me growing up I was and always will be super influenced by Tom Curren. He has been my favorite surfer since I was a grom. I just love his style and the fluidity that his surfing has. In my eyes he is one of the best surfers of all time. The lines that he draws on waves are so unique. Bobby and Dane have also been super influential. Dane is so raw and powerful and it is super fun to watch him surf. Bobby surfs like a boxer. So quick and precise and his speed is second to none.

For the Coffin boys, home is where the heart is—and the heart of the reasons they surf as well as they do.

Second is the laid-back lifestyle in Santa Barbara. I just love the here, and it always feels good to come home, relax with my friends and family, and do what I love to do. Another reason I love home is my friends. There have been several people who have really helped me get to where I am today and I am super grateful for them. Dave Letinsky, JP Garcia, and Toma are three people who I always love to hang out with when I am at home.

Would you rather travel across the world to surf perfect waves, or surf perfect Rincon?PC: There’s not much better than surfing perfect Rincon, so I’ll take a day at Rincon over surfing a lot of places in the world, unless its a perfect left, (ha-ha), then I’ll go to the left. CC: The only bummer about Rincon is the crowd. As a wave I would take Rincon all day any day but it is pretty amazing surfing really good and uncrowded waves.

Now that you’re on the tail end of being a grom, is it fun for you to look down at some of the new upcoming kids coming out of our area? Who in your mind are some of the standouts?PC: Absolutely! It’s so fun seeing a new generation of kids surfing and having fun. Right now Eithan Osborne is my favorite. He rips and is a full prankster. He keeps you on your toes when you are hanging out with him that’s for sure. CC: There are lots. It is so rad to see the new up and coming groms around our hometown. I get super stoked to see them surfing and getting into such an awesome sport. Right now I think that Eithan (Osborne) is leading the charge of the up and coming groms in the area.

Hopefully more kids get into surfing around here and they can all have fun surfing together and pushing one another.

Parker fins free.

PHOTO: DUBOCK.COM

PHOTO: DE ROULET

Parker, Santa Barbara south.

Parker's backhand is precise and his future bright.

PHOT

O: D

UBOC

K.CO

M


SHAPER'S BAY

JVP SURFBOARDS Shaped by John Perry

Shrimp Model5’2” – 6’10”

Quad or tri-fin (Both ride uniquely different)Our riders call it the ripper. High-energy board design to generate a lot of turning even in low energy spots on the wave. Because of the extra flotation volume, you can ride it a few inches smaller than your usual. It may require getting used to the looseness at first, but you’ll adjust to a very busy ride. Quad or Tri-Fin, both ride uniquely different like having two boards in one. Really a great machine for most of our wave conditions around here. Customs always available.

Available atwww.jvpsurfboards.com (805) 637-5100

CHANNEL ISLANDS SURFBOARDS Shaped by Al Merrick

#45’8” x 19 ½” x 2 7/16”

A performance based California utility board, the “four” was the fourth board in a series of numbered concept boards built for Dane just prior to the 2012 U.S. Open. Each concept board incorporated a blend of single to double with vee, 13” + nose and 15” + tail with a double bump. After a few months of tweaks and refinements, the result is a design that can be ridden in two different dimension sets to dial in the type of waves and conditions you ride. Dane rides a 5’8” x 19 ½” x 2 7/16” as a groveler and a 5’9” x 19” x 2 3/8” as a utility board.

Available at Channel Island Surf Shop (Santa Barbara)www.cisurfboards.com

HOYTE SURFBOARDSShaped by Russell Hoyte

California Spud Modified6’6” x 22 ½” x 2 ½” A high performance hybrid bordering on a Fun Shape with progressive rocker for looseness and maneuverability. A full curvy outline keeps it skating even in gutless surf yet with the ability to ride full top to bottom barrels.

Avaliable at Wavefront Surf Shop (Ventura)www.hoytesurfboards.com

ROBERTS SURFBOARDS Shaped by Robert Weiner

White Diamond 219 1/2” x 2 3/8” x 5’8”

With feedback from the last three years, we’ve made some subtle changes to our White Diamond and make it even better. We thinned the nose slightly and narrowed it just a tiny bit. Added double concave out the back with a tiny bit of vee and rounded the corners on the diamond. The WD2 is sized like the original WD at 5-6 inches shorter and only an inch wider than your high performance shortboard.

Available at Revolution Surf Co. (Camarillo)www.robertssurf.com

BOARD BUYERS GUIDEComing September 2013

Email [email protected] more info and rates

deepzine.com#deepsurfmag

Arts & Craft VendorsC-Street Longboard ClassicFrisbee Outrigger Paddleboard RacesGreat Food Beer Garden

Graphic Design

Alex Mooney

Promenade Park at Surfers Point Ventura, CA

Proceeds to benefit

9th Annual 9th Annual

www.alohabeachfestival.us


Travel. Why are we drawn to it? We endure the leg-cramping, mind-stirring restlessness of seemingly endless flights to

arrive at a new destination. We walk barefoot over mud in sweaty humidity amidst the smell of burning trash to find surf. Is it for the smell of the first coat of tropical wax on a new

LADIES ROOM

BY NICOLE DE LEON

Seeking Adventure

“All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware.” ~ Martin Buber

What can we paint on this next canvas?

PHOTO: LIZ CLARK PHOTO: DE LEON

board, or is it so we can run through another airport with an oversized bag on our shoulder? I believe we seek adventure to remember the raw, stripped down versions of ourselves that we truly are. We travel because we wish to seek out an experience that liberates us from pretenses or falsities.

There is a crack when we travel that opens our routines and allows our true spirit to seep out. As we try to manage our busy lives, it is easy to let the dust of our passion settle while we walk comfortably along the bleached floors of “normalcy.” This can lead one to sigh at every glimpse of the world beyond the everyday. But what if we were to use our feelings as a GPS system to guide us unhesitatingly towards new adventures on a daily basis? Whether it is a surf trip, a far-off destination, or a new career or relationship choice—when we allow ourselves to feel fear we start to feel our aliveness. When we hesitate to take that initial step into uncharted waters, our life can start to feel redundant and controlled.

Surfers are lucky; we can revel in each moment without redundancies. We live in an unpredictable ever-changing environment. We are magnetically drawn to the ocean’s siren song of mysteriousness. What if we used surfing as a metaphor for creating an adventure everyday? Adventure lies in each moment and should not just be a dusty relic of our photo albums. I have been greeted with openness and smiles in most countries and judgment in very few. It is in those countries where I have equally found and lost parts of myself. Traveling is where we feel alive.

If you haven’t yet planned a trip this summer and you are interested in a surf retreat, I highly recommend Holly Beck’s “Surf With Amigas” surf retreat in Northern Nicaragua. Both a legendary professional surfer and ultimate surf babe, Beck has created the ultimate hub for surfers of all levels. Whether you choose to travel internationally or domestically this summer, it is in the rediscovering of our purpose that the adventure begins!

"To travel is worth any cost or sacrifice." – Elizabeth Gilbert

www.mountainairsports.comLocally owned and Operated for over 30 years!

SAN LUIS OBISPO667 MARSH STREET

543-1676Mon-Sat 10 - 6

Thurs 10 - 8, Sun 11- 4Corner of Broad & Marsh

SANTA BARBARA14 STATE STREET

962-0049Mon - Sat 10-6, Sun 11-5

At the Beach • Free Parking

FREE INSTALLATION !

Mountain Air Sports

Ski, snowboard, travel, hiking boots, clothing,

tents, packs, sleeping bags, Hobie kayaks,

climbing gear, and car racks.

Travel • Footwear • Car Racks

SHOP LOCALLY OWNEDHOBIE KAYAK

Demos Available!

HOMEGROWN SURF SHOP

811 EAST THOMPSON BLVDVENTURA, CALIFORNIA

(across from spencer makenzie’s & corrales)

homegrownsurfshop.com

surf art culture


Most of the world hears about an impending tropical storm and thinks of the potential for disaster and chaos, as surfers we think of the potential to score epic

waves. So when surfer Clay Johnson and I heard about Super Storm Sandy we booked our flights, packed our boards and bags and rented a 45-foot sailboat for seven days to cruise the Caribbean and scour its remote islands in search of empty waves.

Quickly remembering we don’t know how to sail; we realized we needed someone to captain the boat. We knew the perfect choice

SAILING AND SURFING SUPER STORM SANDY

After hiking to the oldest lighthouse in the Caribbean we spotted a right hander peeling off the top of the cove. Clay proving this wave was surf-able.

TRAVEL: CARIBBEAN

One morning we wanted to just be off the boat for a while so we decided to hike to the top of the island we saw with a lighthouse.

This was our sight to the other side of the island ... a right!!

www.DEEPZINE.com 35

SAILING AND SURFING SUPER STORM SANDY S T O R Y A N D P H O T O S B Y A N D Y B O W L I N

— continued


was our east coast buddy Mike who chased the swell from Hurricane Earl with us on his yacht a few years back. So we called Mike, who had grabbed his boards and wife before we even hung up the phone, and we were off.

Exhausted after 12 hours traveling on full red eye flights with Sandy-related flight delays and one piece of lost luggage later, we finally arrived at the harbor where we received a 15-minute tutorial on how to sail our chartered yacht that would have taken even a seasoned sailor hours to learn. In spite of our limited sailing abilities and major sleep deprivation, we set sail in the crystal clear turquoise water of the Caribbean optimistic, energized and excited.

The swell was two to three times bigger than any online services had predicted and our 45-foot yacht that seemed so impressive in the dock was suddenly being tossed around like a 12-foot dinghy. Even with the constant 87 degree heat and 90 percent humidity, we remained undaunted and headed for a small chain of islands we had heard of in the Caribbean. After three hours of being tossed around by the ocean like a beach ball we could finally see a few islands in the distance. Recognizing our destination, we dropped anchor and hid from the swell in a protected harbor for some hard earned food and rest. After a bottle of sea sickness pills, a round of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, and a gallon of water, we had regained enough strength to form a game plan. We pulled out the maps and swell charts, consulted Google Earth, and narrowed down our first potential surf spot to a nearby channel flanked by waves on either side.

Grey, overcast skies made it impossible to see how big the waves were in the distance, but when we sailed closer to the island we could see clean offshore waves so big they were closing out the entire bay entering the island. We looked to the other side of the channel and found what looked like perfect left hand barrels freight-training down a point. Clay immediately jumped off the boat and started paddling before we could even drop anchor.

I got caught inside and took a few of these dredgers to the head.

TRAVEL: CARIBBEAN

Clay and crew waiting for the next set at our own private left hand barrel.

www.DEEPZINE.com 37After a grueling hike through the jungle with little water and running away from killer bees we came to find this left with no one around for miles.

If we knew how long this grueling hike

was going to be, Clay might have thought to bring some sandals. Nonetheless we made it

through the thorns, bees, and heat.


While the rest of us waited impatiently, Clay dropped into the first wave and immediately disappeared from sight; obviously the waves were much bigger than we had anticipated. We next saw Clay riding the remnants of the following wave in to the beach where he began waving his arms wildly. Confused by what this meant, we all drenched ourselves in sunscreen and got ready to jump in. Clay soon gave up on his attempt at sign language and paddled back to the boat to give us a report. As he swam closer he again began waving what we could now see were his bloody arms and he explained that the bad news was there were huge rocks beneath the lineup, but the good news was those waves were perfectly hollow grinding left hand barrels as we had suspected. Realizing we had found exactly what we traveled so far looking for, we ignored the rocks and imminent danger they posed and piled in our 4hp 12-foot zodiac, raced over to the lineup and jumped in.

After taking a serious beating on the rocks, we began to realize why we were the only ones in the spot and decided to explore our options. We had noticed a small group of boats posted on the other side of the channel and decided to investigate. We sailed over to find a handful of locals getting long flawless rides all the way down the point, each kicking out by us in the channel and greeting us with extended middle fingers, a harsh but understandable welcome for an oversized yacht full of pale skinned outsiders pulling up on the best day in years. We ignored the greeting, took our chances, and dropped the anchor to hang out for a bit and watch the locals score a few more waves. Finally, Clay darted to the top of the point and threw down a few quick top turns and powerful roundhouse cutbacks on his first wave; he immediately silenced the attitudes in the water, and we made fast friends out of the seemingly unwelcoming locals. We surfed After our air conditioning fan belt broke, we were forced to sleep up on deck. We woke up to this incredible sunrise.

TRAVEL: CARIBBEAN

This wave was extremely shallow,rocky and hallow, but worth it. Clay pulling in for some tube time.

www.DEEPZINE.com 39

until dusk that night with our new friends and were invited to tag along with them the following day to search for more storm swell waves. When asked, our friends attributed the less than warm welcome to the fact that very few outsiders come to their islands in search of waves, and they would like to keep it that way. However, they appreciated Clay’s skill and our tenacity and decided to share their world with us, as this storm swell was shaping up to be what seemed like a once in a lifetime event.

What followed were five more days of searching for perfect waves in remote spots with our newfound local friends serving as our “tour guides.” They shared all of their best-kept secrets with us while we experienced epic storm waves courtesy of Super Storm Sandy. By day we hiked miles through dense jungle vegetation to deserted beaches where we found perfectly clear crisp blue water. With no one around for miles we surfed the pristine waves for hours. When we couldn’t hike any further we sailed to the small outer islands that could only be reached by boat where we found small but shredable waves. Each night we ate dozens of fish tacos and drank Medalla Light beer with the locals in their run-down bar shacks. We sailed from hidden spot to hidden spot riding Sandy’s surf all around the little string of islands until we felt like locals ourselves.

Seven days after being sun burned, bug bitten, and exhausted, we said our goodbyes, returned the boat and began our long arduous journey back to the Central Coast of California. It wasn’t until our phones slowly started getting service again that we realized what had happened to the Northeast as a result of Super Storm Sandy. As we flew into Newark, NJ to make our connections, we saw the first-hand destruction and flooding, but all we would remember of Sandy was the clear turquoise water, empty, epic waves and the new friends that she brought to us.

A left that only breaks when the swell is huge everywhere else. This thing would wrap around the back side of this little island go for about 200 yards.

A rewarding hike led to waves on both side of the beach. Lefts on south side and this gnarly right on the north side.

center

stagePH

OTO:

SCOT

T SM

ITH

Jonathan Strader at ease in the comfort of an ice cold curl in Central California.

www.DEEPZINE.com 41

www.DEEPZINE.com 41


PHOTO: Daniel Russo © 2013 Fletcher Chouinard Designs, Inc.

W W W. F C D S U R F B O A R D S . C O M

SURF SHOP & SURFBOARDS :: 43 S. Olive Street :: Ventura(805) 641-9428 :: MON-FRI 10am-5pm :: SAT 10am-6pm :: SUN 11am-5pm

(hours subject to change depending on swell)IN DOWNTOWN CARPINTERIA • LINDEN AVE at RR Tracks • 745-8272

ON TAP!Blonde AleParadise Pale Ale

Island Pale AleNight Sail

Starry Night Stout Jubilee Ale

Tropical Lager!!!

Bottles:Night Sail

Blackbird Porter

NEW TOURS!Weekends at 2 & 4 pmall Summer!

OPEN DAILY:Thurs. – Sun. 11am – 9pm

Mon. – Wed. 2pm – 9pm

ISLANDBREWINGCOMPANY.COM

surfshop.comSURFSHOP.COM

S U R F S H O PS U R F S H O P4 4 6 E M A I N S T R E E T V E N T U R A

+

CHECK OUT OUR NEW ONLINE STORE!W W W . S H O P W E T S A N D . C O M

www.DEEPZINE.com 43OCEA

N PH

OTO:

GLE

NN D

UBOC

K

Beer Festival by the Beach Saturday, August 10th, 2013 • Carpinteria, California

TICKETS & INFO: www.deepfest.com

#surfnsuds

www.deepzine.com

PROGRAM INSIDE

DEEP Surf Magazine brings you Surf ‘n’ Suds, a beer festival with a SURF twist on Saturday, August 10th, 2013 in Carpinteria! Along with over 30 craft breweries to sample from, local surfboard shapers will

also be on hand with their latest designs. This will present a unique experience where you can sample craft brews and talk shop with local shapers, all while dancing away to live music from The Kicks, The Rincons, and Afishnsea the Moon!

Surf movies will also be playing all day in the Sundance Beach Surf Flick Tent! Local videographers Michael Kew, Ryan Lovelace, Ryan Perry, Dave Schauber, Jason and Sean Lesh, Josh Pomer, Andrew Schoener, Nick Liotta and Adam Lambert will be putting together short films for you to check out all day!

Food will available from The Burger Bus and Spencer Makenzie’s Fish Company! Surf ‘n’ Suds will take place on Linden Field at Carpinteria State Park. Sitting

in front of Carpinteria State Beach with a backdrop of the Santa Ynez Mountains, Surf ‘n’ Suds will be one to remember!

We look forward to you enjoying craft beer, playing cornhole (bean bag toss) presented by Spencer Makenzies Fish Co., taking photo opps with the Mprint Swimwear Models, getting your accessories on at the Scosche Tent, checking out the latest skate and snowboard models at the Arbor Tent, or stopping by the Indosole Tent where used tires from Indonesia are used for the soles of their footwear ... all while hanging out with your friends over an amazing selection of craft brews and music.

Make sure you get to Surf ‘n’ Suds safely! Check out our transportation tab on our website for Lowrider Taxi contact and discount ($30 one-way to and from Santa Barbara), Amtrak schedules, Vista Bus schedules and if you are local ride your bicycle and park in our Bicycle Valet sponsored by the Bici & Bike Coalition Crew!

Coming from out of town? Stay at the Best Western Plus Carpinteria Inn and get 10 percent off your two-night stay! Call (805) 684-0473 and ask for the “Surf ‘n’ Suds” Discount!

Entry includes tastings from over 30 breweries. No pets or backpacks allowed and you must be 21 or older to enter.

We hope you can attend Surf ‘n’ Suds Beer Festival and bring your friends!

Come to Carpinteria early for breakfast and stay late for dinner at one of our great restaurants in the downtown area. The ads in the program will give you and your friends a wide array of food, drinks and entertainement available in Carpinteria! — Andres Nuño Director of DEEP Surf Magazine

shapersLocal Central Coast shapers will be at Surf 'n' Suds with boards on display. Surf

'n' Suds presents you with a rare opportunity to shake hands with the amazing craftsmen of the Central Coast. Without these shapers pushing boundries and fine tuning every board, surfing wouldn't be where it is today. Show your appreciation, ask a question, or just shake hands and share a beer with the shapers below!

Welcome to

Max McDonald S U R F B O A R D S

WILLIAM DENNIS

WILLIAM DENNISS U R F B O A R D S

$60 for VIP With your VIP ticket you get into Surf 'n' Suds an hour early and get to sample craft beer that will not be available to all guests. You will also have unlimited

access to the VIP Zone where Island Brewing Co. and two surprise breweries will be pouring all day. For the VIP hour, Island Brewing Co. owner Paul Wright will be avilable in the VIP Zone to answer any questions about craft beer.

$45 General Admission With your General Admission ticket you will

get to sample craft beer from over 30 breweries, live entertainment from three bands, play cornhole (bean bag toss) with some friends and check out some surf videos in the Sundance Beach Surf Flick tent.Tickets are only available online at www.deepfest.com. Tickets will be sent

electronically to you in the form of a text message on your smart phone. Those not able to purchase tickets online can call (805) 684-4428, and those witihout a smart phone can email [email protected] for your ticket.

A portion of the ticket sales will be donated to the California Avocado Festival Youth Scholarship Fund.

ILLUSTRATION: EM

ILY BOELSEMS

Saturday, August 10th, 2013 in Carpinteria

$2 OFFANY PIZZA! ANY SIZE!Spaghetti • Antipasta • Calzones

Salads • Hot/Cold Sandwiches • Pastas

FRESH BEER ON TAP. $9 PITCHERS!!!5003 Carpinteria Ave., 805-684-8288

entertainment

The Rincons from Carpinteria, also known as The Dusty Jugz, are made up of Curtis

Lopez, Roger Gilbert, Dan Herrera and William Henderson. Their music ranges from the Beach Boys and Beatles to Zack Brown and Johnny Cash.

Afishnsea the Moon is a Carpinteria rock band that has been together

for just over a year. Mixing sounds and influences from classic rock, to psychedelic, funk, and blues, they create a fusion of what has been called revival rock. They are composed of lead vocals and guitarist John Patrick McCann, drummer Adam Camardella, rhythm guitar Javi Morales, lead/rhythm guitar Lauren Campbell, and bassist Christopher Riley.

crowd dancing!The Kicks have had the honor of sharing the stage with

such acts as Stephen Marley, Don Carlos, SOJA, Groundation, The English Beat, Katchafire, Tony Rebel, Dezarie, Queen Ifrica, Rootz Underground, Eek-a-Mouse, HR of Bad Brains, The Black Seeds and many more.

BRING YOUR FRIENDS & ENJOY

6 MICRO BREWS ON TAPLocal Wines

Pizza • Salads • Pastas Wraps • Sandwiches

(Veggies from Farmers Market)

915 Linden Ave • 805.684.3354 www.nutbelly.com

The Kicks have been bringing their unique progressive roots reggae sound and positive vibes to the Central

Coast of California and beyond since 2003. Driven to play out of a passion for life and a deep love of music and friends, The Kicks deliver a unique and soulful blend of roots era reggae, jazz and ska which never fails to get the

751 LINDEN AVE. 566-6546(between 7th & 8th Streets)

JUST TACOSTHAT’S ALL WE SERVE!$1.25

SOFT TACOS FRESH SALSA BAR

Adobada / Marinated Beef Asada / Beef

Carnitas / Fried Pork Pollo / Chicken

Cabeza / Head • Chorizo

Surf 'n' Suds will have three live bands playing all day! Local bands, The Kicks, The Rincons and Afishnsea the Moon will keep you moving and grooving!

presented by Spencer Makenzie Fish Co. Play for fun with some friends or do the longtoss challenge to get a FREE entry to the Spencer Makenzie Fish Co. Summer Cornhole Challenge.

Surf Flick Tent

Cornhole

presented by Sundance Beach. Surf flicks by local videographers Michael Kew, Dave Schauber, Ryan Lovelace, Jason & Sean Lesh, Ryan Perry, Josh Pomer, Andrew Schoener, Nick Liotta, and Adam Lambert will be playing all day in the Sundance Beach Surf Flick Tent.

OVER 30 breweries...

5096 Carpinteria Ave • 684-5507

EAT & DRINK

NACHOS - TACOS - BURRITOS

FULL BAR! MARGARITAS!DRAFT BEER!

HAPPY HOUR EVERY DAY 4 - 6 PM

$4 pints, $5 glasses of wine & tapas specials.Come enjoy our outdoor patio!

910 Linden Ave • (805) 684-1400

HOME OF THE “WORLD’S SAFEST” HAPPY HOUR

Reservations 805.684.6666686 LINDEN AVE. – DOWNTOWN CARP

HOME OF THE HOME OF THE “WORLD’S SAFEST” HAPPY HOUR“WORLD’S SAFEST” HAPPY HOUR

Reservations 805.684.6666

HOME OF THE HOME OF THE “WORLD’S SAFEST” HAPPY HOUR“WORLD’S SAFEST” HAPPY HOUR

Reservations 805.684.6666

SEAFOODSTEAKSCOCKTAILS

More craft breweries are being added daily.

Check www.deepfest.com for the latest additions!

OVER 30 breweries...

The PalmsTradition since 1905

Linden Ave at 7th St. • 805.684.3811

Cocktails•Happy Hour Live Bands•Dancing

“Famous Charbroil Grill”

bl-brewLAB

from all over California, and a few from out of state, will be at Surf 'n' Suds Beer Festival with the best craft beer around. Your ticket to Surf 'n' Suds allows you to sample beer from each and every brewery. We know you will enjoy what they will be pouring!

4954 Carp Ave.805.684.7450

Cold Beer on Tap • Pool TablesPing Pong • Serving Wine

$5 OFF PITCHERw/coupon

4954 Carp Ave.Ping Pong • Serving Wine

805.684.9352892 Linden Ave.

Cocktails& BEER

Traditional Mexican & American CuisineBURGERS Sandwiches & More

SENOR FROG’S

m e x i c a n a m e r i c a n c u i s i n en

~SENOR FROG’S


~

Fresh Margaritas

CARPINTERIAJOIN US FOR BURGER NIGHTS!

OPEN NIGHTS 5:30 - 9PM

10% OFF WITH THIS AD Economical Bite to Eat • Famly Friendly

No Shirts or Shoes required

BEACHSIDE CARPINTERIA 507 Linden Avenue - 805 684-1070

esau’s caféHOME TO THOSE WHO LOVE HOME COOKING

world famous since 1939

FEATURINGBurgers

SandwichesSalads

Fish & Chips

Spencer Makenzies Summer Block Party: Aug. 31 - Sept. 1, 2013 • www.smfishco.comCalifornia Beer Festival: Claremont/San Dimas: Saturday, Sept. 7, 2013 Ventura: Saturday & Sunday, Sept. 21-22, 2013 • www.californiabeerfestival.comSanta Barbara Beer Festival: Saturday, October 19, 2013, Noon – 4 p.m. • www.sbbeerfestival.comBrews on the Beach: Saturday, April 14, 2014 • www.brewsonthebeach.com Buellton Brew Festival: Saturday, May 3, 2014 • www.buelltonbrewfest.com

UPCOMING FestivalS

RR

Allied Beverages, Inc. Allied Beverages, Inc. is a wholesale beverage distributor in Los Angeles, Ventura, and Santa Barbara counties. We carry a broad selection of fine domestic and imported beverages, and strive to be a strategic partner with our suppliers and retailers in the beverage industry, as well as a responsible corporate community citizen. www.alliedbeverages.com

Arbor Skateboards | Snowboards | ApparelThe Arbor Collective is an expanding cooperative of athletes, designers, artists, and friends, whose shared mission is bringing together forward thinking design, progressive technology, and thought provoking art with the most sustainable production solutions available. For those of us who snowboard, skate, surf or simply thrive on getting outside, protecting the planet is about the environments we use everyday. To that end, the Arbor Collective continues building on a 17-year legacy of supporting the experience with the most environmentally responsible, next-level product possible. 14 W. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara, CA • (805) 845-1022 • www.arborcollective.com

Best Western Inn CarpinteriaEnjoy an escape to serenity in the American Riviera as you soak up the sun, spend your day in wine country and take in some of Southern California’s finest cultural centers. The Carpinteria Inn in Santa Barbara offers Spanish Mission architecture, well-appointed amenities and cozy suites all just two blocks from the beach and minutes from the area’s finest shopping and dining destinations. Get 10% off your 2-day stay during Surf 'n' Suds. 4558 Carpinteria Ave., Carpinteria, CA • (805) 684-0473 • www.chmhotels.com

IndosoleMotorbikes are the leading mode of transportation in Indonesia and also a major form of pollution. It takes thousands of years for a motorbike tire to decompose in a landfill. We believe these tires deserve another utility. Indosole is on a mission to salvage old motorbike tires and other trash from landfills and give them a new life with our footwear. Indosole products are handmade by skilled Balinese artisans and the production process does not contain fuel-powered machines, just strong hands and minds. Resourceful living, we call it. Re-purposing. Re-imagining. Re-birthing. We are on a quest to save one million tires from Indonesian landfills. www.indosole.com

Mprint SwimwearMprint Swimwear has been crowned by locals as Santa Barbara’s official bikini company. Created by local entrepreneurial couple, Cody Dragon and Suzanne Silva, this bikini line is quickly turning the entire swimwear industry upside down. Disruptive but delightful to bikini wearers, the patent pending suits allow women to tan like they’ve never been able to before. www.MprintSwimwear.com

ScoscheScosche is an award-winning manufacturer of consumer electronics accessories. We design products used to power, connect, protect and listen to your favorite smart devices. Our inspiration comes from the local lifestyle, culture, music and people. Scosche —Accessories for LIFE. www.scosche.com

Sundance Beach Authentic selection. Inspired lifestyle. Unique experience. These attributes are the cornerstones of Sundance Beach’s extraordinary customer service, and define our brand. Bringing you the finest surfwear, swimwear, and accessories from brands like Volcom, RVCA, Vans, O’Neill, Poler, Billabong, Reef, Rip Curl, Quiksilver, L*Space, Maaji, Seea, Boys and Arrows, Zinke, Frankies, and more, Sundance Beach is your source for everything that relates to the sea! 7048-7054 Market Place Dr., Goleta, CA • (805) 966-2474 • www.sundancebeach.com

sponsors

Saturday, August 10th, 2013 in Carpinteria

California Avocado Festival The California Avocado Festival promotes and educates people about avocados and their significant economic impact in our communities. The annual festival provides a venue for local nonprofits and service organizations to promote their organizations and raise much needed funds. The California Avocado Festival continues to create funds through the Festival for its Youth Scholarship Fund. In 2012 the Festival was able to award a total of $2,000 to college bound Carpinteria High School Seniors. Avofest takes place the first full weekend in October. avofest.com

Santa Barbara ChannelkeeperSanta Barbara Channelkeeper is a grassroots nonprofit organization whose mission is to protect and restore the Santa Barbara Channel and its watersheds through science-based advocacy, education, fieldwork and enforcement. We work on the water and in the communities along the Santa Barbara Channel to monitor water quality, restore aquatic ecosystems, advocate for clean water, enforce environmental laws, and educate and engage citizens in implementing solutions to water pollution and aquatic habitat degradation.sbck.org

Project Save Our Surf Project Save Our Surf is a non-profit organization dedicated to the conservation of our oceans and freshwater, and to the preservation of marine life. We are surfers, celebrities, friends, families and businesses who use many different strategies, including educating the public and partnering with other clean water organizations, to reverse the trend of environmental pollution, create a plastic-free world and assure that every person has access to clean water.projectsaveoursurf.org

Santa Barbara Surfrider Foundation Surfrider Foundation The Surfrider Foundation is a national, international and local nonprofit environmental organization dedicated to the protection and enjoyment of the world’s waves, oceans and beaches for all people, through conservation, activism, research and education. The Santa Barbara Chapter, founded in 1991, is made up of coastal enthusiasts, just like you, who care about our local coast and ocean. Get involved!santabarbara.surfrider.org

Carpinteria Valley Arts CouncilThe Carpinteria Valley Arts Council (CVAC) runs the exciting Carpinteria Arts Center at 855 Linden Avenue. Their vision is to provide a venue for all Carpinterians to get involved with the arts. As the art programs at local schools continue to be cut, CVAC picks up the slack to keep art alive in Carpinteria. Current programs include gallery exhibitions, Art in Public Places, Art By the Sea summer program for children, Art-niture Benefit, Bellas Artes, Artists Studio Tour, art advocacy, art workshops, and special art events. We look forward to your support for the arts. Art changes the world. artscarp.org

Carpinteria ValleyArts Council

The Burger Bus The Burger Bus is a locally sourced mobile food truck. We have been serving up delicious burgers and sides to the Santa Barbara area for the last four years and going strong. We strive to bring you the freshest ingredients possible in order to serve you the best burger possible! theburgerbus.com

Spencer Makenzie's Fish Co.Spencer Makenzie's was voted best fish taco by the VCREPORTER! Customer favorites include fish and chips, ceviche, homemade clam chowder, grilled ahi salad, Parmesan hard shell tacos, ahi pockets and much more! They are a Green company using biodegrable/compastable items. smfishco.com

nonprofitssponsors

supporting sponsors food

Night OutNight Out hand picks and features the best of your cities nightlife!Discover places, happy hours, special offers, events and more!This is Night Out—Discover nightlife!nightout.com

Santa Barbara Bicycle CoalitionWith your help making bicycling better for everyone in Santa Barbara County.bicicentro.org

Ventura Water Store Ventura’s Water Store is a state-licensed water treatment, purification, and bottling facility. We provide premium-purified water at an affordable price. Our retail store offers convenient self-serve filling stations for distilled, reverse osmosis, and Alkaline water products.1455 S. Victoria Ave., Ventura(805) 642-4188venturawaterstore.com

MarBorg Industries MarBorg Industries offers a variety of fencing options, sink rentals, restrooms, and is the leader in waste management and community-conscious business. Serving the community for over 70 years, MarbBorg has always cared deeply for the people and the environment of the South Coast. marborg.com

Tickets & Info: www.deepfest.com

channel islands janitorial inc.Comp l e t e C omme r c i a l C l e an i n g Se r v i c e s

Channel Islands Janitorial, Inc.Locally owned, and operated, since 1999, we serve Carpinteria, Summerland, Santa Barabara, Goleta and North Ventura. Complete commercial cleaning services including construction and event clean up, daily janitorial duties and maintenance, window washing, carpet cleaning and floor refinishing. We use green seal products.(805) 698-2634 (805) 729-1598 [email protected]

www.DEEPZINE.com 51

Josh Gill Breaking In

www.DEEPZINE.com 51

The cover shot for the DEEP Surf Magazine May/June 2013 issue is one of my favorites; it is an image of 2013 Rincon Pro Division winner Conner Coffin cutting back into the soup. It was photographer Josh Gill’s first cover shot for our 6-year-old publication, so I thought it was appropriate to scour his images and splash them across the pages for a photo essay.

Photography has always been focal point in the Gill family, but Josh didn’t get serious about it until he suffered an injury to his clavicle in an alumni water polo match.

“After finding out that I wouldn’t be able to surf and work for six weeks, I figured why not photograph my friends surfing,” said the 30-year-old Gill. “So I asked my mom for an early Christmas present, and from then on I shot every chance that I had.”

Gill cites the constant movement of surfing as the biggest challenge for a surf photographer. Hard to argue with that, but he’s also quick to point out that light and weather also make a huge impact in the success of a lensmen. And for Gill, an avid surfer, it’s always tough to make the call to shoot or surf.

“I’ve been surfing most of my life. It’s a huge part of who I am and it’s why I’m pursuing surf photography,” he said, “So when the waves are going off, it’s tough to decide.”

After building a new website and stuffing his portfolio with jaw-dropping imagery, Gill just purchased his first ticket to Indonesia and the wave-rich reefs of Bali.

“Traveling is something that I have been looking forward to for a while now,” he continued. “Can’t wait to get there.”

To check out more of Gill’s work, go to www.abovethereef.com. - Chuck Graham

Bobby Martinez. SUP girl! Catrina Wiley enforcing the lineup in Waikiki.

Haena’s beauty.

Josh Gill

Sunrise set.Unkown shralps one in the cove, while others do laps.Napali lefts.

J-Frame.

El Niño y pescado en México.

Flowers for Fran. Rain soaked waters.

Unkown has a front row seat to the Kilian Garland show.


Flyin' Hawaiian.

Playing chicken with a pelican. Big Sur coastline.

Josh Gill

Constant motion.

Andrew Bennett slips into a drainer.Matt Levash goes for a solo surf. Kilian Garland laying down a signature power turn.


BOARD TRACHTING

Jack be nimble and Jack be quick, Shane Stoneman shaped me the Icarus to get tubed and surf vertical over the lip. If you’ve kept up with the Board Trachting column over the last few years, you noticed that as the world of surfboards has gotten weirder and weirder, I’ve traveled with the trend to bring DEEP’s readers an eclectic view of these new surfboard designs.

However, part of the journey is always to find components in new and past designs that can be assimilated into the still, most widely recognized high performance design: the shortboard.

In an effort to create one of the most high performance shortboards he’s designed, ex-pro surfer and decade-long shaper Shane Stoneman decided to share his newest combination of everything standard high performance in his Icarus surfboard model.

Shaper’s TakeIn Greek mythology Icarus gets a bad rap. Most people like to tell the story as a cautionary tale

to get their children to listen to their parents. I never liked that read. To me Icarus seemed a bold and fearless rebel who tried to push the limits of new technology. Did he melt his waxwings by flying too close to the sun? Sure, but he also flew closer to the sun than any other Greek mythological hero since ... and did he complain when he fell to the Earth ... hell, no! Anyway, this is a high performance board for the people who still want to push it and aren’t going to apologize for it. For a soundtrack to surfing on the Icarus try the Misfits tune “Where Eagles Dare.”

The nuts and bolts of the Icarus go like this: It’s a board meant to be ridden in anything from real genuine crap to really good waves. Like a lot of the newest crop of boards this one is shorter than boards of yesteryear, but unlike the new wider boards, I went back to narrower widths at center but

kept the wider tail. This straightens out the rail line and allows for more holding power. So now I needed a thickness and rocker that would make the board really user friendly and yet still

be super sensitive and loose. I shaped the rocker pretty flat up front with just a little last minute flip ... while the tail rocker is pretty curvy which allows you to get really comfortable turning up and under the lip. The only learning curve on this board is dialing in the right feel from your fin configuration—how big are the back fins of the quad in relation to the front to find the perfect amount of torque to looseness. To make it even easier we added a fifth box (thruster position) for those tri-fin die hards, or someone who wants to add a mini stabilizer like those ‘80s twins use to have.

Surfer’s TakeRiding a shortboard is about finding precision, and it takes a good surfer to recognize the infinite

idiosyncrasies of that sweet flow we call magic under one’s feet. Being that Shane Stoneman surfed pro for many years, precision is just what he’s able to find.

When I ordered the Icarus from Stoneman, I was looking to surf a certain way. Where many of the boards in my 2013 quiver are wide, weird, and a new type of fast, I haven’t delved into what guys who shape a great shortboard have been doing with the new surge of width, parallel rail lines, and a compressed total volume.

Stoneman has been a standout shaper on the Central Coast, focused in San Luis Obispo County for a long time. He surfs the absolute best waves on their day up here, charges beautifully groomed 20-footers in Northern California, and like the rest of us, surfs the crappiest days the ocean can throw at us to sooth that necessary daily reckoning to “just get wet.”

BY SHAWN TRACHT

Stoneman's Icarus Model enjoys long walks on the beach, going vertical, and getting pitted!

PHOTO: JEFF PFOSTThe Icarus SHAPED BY SHANE STONEMAN

www.DEEPZINE.com 57

The Icarus road like a board shaped by a pro, but at the same time allowed for intermediate surfers to segue into the pure shortboard realm. Especially when the waves sucked out a little and got bowly, no matter if it was offshore and beautiful or blown out crap, if the wave was running, this board could match any waves' down the line speed. The Icarus was shaped for surfers who want to surf vertically whenever there is any hint of a curl: Closeout beach breaks ... check! Blown out racing dumpers ... check. Epic reefs ... double check. Good point breaks ... you know what I’m going to say!

The only place I didn’t see this board as a perfect fit was in slow, mushy waves. Though the wide point of the board is moved forward, over the front foot, which helps for drive and speed, the overall outline has less foam than a big wide fish, so naturally, the board’s specialty is not in surfing flat slow waves as good as a big wide fish or longboard.

That being said, the idea of this article is to examine how this board fits into one’s quiver and what type of waves it best excels in. No matter the wind, tide, or size, the Icarus excels with even the slightest running down the line bowl, and then has the modern curves and tail outline to surf straight up and down. If you’re into pushing your surfing, or have ever dreamed of going pro and traveling all over the world on a sponsors dime like Stoneman did in the ‘90s, go wrap all 10 of your piggies around Shane Stoneman’s new Icarus model in Wavelengths Surf Shop on the Embarcadero in Morro Bay, in one or the Moondoggies Surf Shops in downtown San Luis Obispo, or in downtown Pismo Beach.

Most guys in SLO county look up to Shane’s surfing, as his flow and vertical attack are inspiring, and order his boards because it’s obvious they work. For a guy who surfs good enough to still be sponsored by top surfboard manufactures, it’s a testimony to his craftsmanship that he and many of the best surfers in SLO all ride his boards.

SHANE STONEMAN SURFBOARDS Shaper: Shane Stoneman/ Shane Stoneman Surfboards

Board Shape/Design: Icarus

How to Order: Order 1-2 inches shorter than your normal shortboard.

Fins: 5-fin setup. Your choice of 3-, 4-, or 5-fin setup.

Board’s Specialty: This board loves the bowl. Two-foot, or overhead, the rocker on this board flat and fast under the feet and curvy for performance where you turn.

This Board is Perfect For: Someone who loves a good shortboard that surfs vertical and progressive in may types of surf.

Surfboard Tester, Shawn Tracht’s Normal Shortboard: 5’10” x 18” x 2”

Tracht Ordered This Board: 5’8” x 18 ¼” x 2 ¼”

Shaper’s Contact Info:

Website: www.shanestoneman.com • Email: [email protected] Available at: Wavelengths Surf Shop in Morro Bay Moodoggies Surf Shop in Downtown San Luis Obispo and Pismo Beach. Surfer’s Blog: surfwanderer.com

Stoneman and his new

performance model

all-around shortboard

Stoneman at his rootsy shaping bay way out in the hills of S.L.O. County.

Want to blow the tail? Go ahead!

Tracht going vertical in

less than perfect

conditions.

South swell shack for Tracht. PHOTO: TRACHT PHOTO: LIEBERMAN

PHOT

O: LI

EBER

MAN

PHOTO: LIEBERMAN

PHOTO: BRENT LIEBERMAN


PRODUCT REVIEWMUNCHIES

Kind A healthy snack alternative that is high in protein and fiber, non-GMO and low in sugar. KIND is a great snack before or after a session. They come in three different bars; Fruit & Nut: the classic, tasty combination of whole nuts, fruits (and a drizzle of honey).PLUS: provides an all-natural boost of nutrients like protein, fiber, antioxidants or omega-3 fatty acids.Nuts 7 Spices: made with spices like cinnamon, ginger and Madagascar vanilla, and fiber and protein-packed whole nuts. Spice, everything nice, and only 5g of sugar or less. - DEEP Staff

Available at www.kindsnacks.com

CLOTHING CO.

Finsmen Finsmen isn’t your typical online store or brand. With every sale that is made they allow the consumer to pick one of two charities (Waves for Water or Share the Stoke Foundation) to donate a percentage of their profit for that particular sale. At the end of each quarter, they also donate a lump sum to the charities that the consumers chose.

“Our goal is to encourage consumers to feel great about receiving a quality product as well as giving them the piece of mind knowing that their purchase helped a child or family in need,” said Jeff Johnson, founder of Finsmen. - DEEP Staff

Black/Grey Classic Snapback: $24.99 / Daniel Jones in Indo (color): $29.99Available at www.finsmen.com

Cushe Slipper Lifestyle From the men’s slip-on to the women’s flat or flip-flops, Cushe shoe engineers designed footwear fitting to the product line’s name. They are cushiness at first step. No break-in period is necessary; you’ll be walking on air in no time. And style-wise, they’ll pass on the beach and on trek to a secluded spot. Check the full product line at cushe.com for styles that meet any indoor or outdoor occasion. Above all, these foot-friendly kicks score high on the ease-of-wear scale. - Peter Dugré

$50.00 • Available at www.cushe.com

UNDERWATER IPHONE

CAMERA HOUSING

PHOTO: COLIN NEARMAN

WETSUIT

Isurus 222 SAF In a 24-hour window I put the Isurus 2mm, short-sleeve full suit through its paces. I swam and kayaked at the Channel Islands National Park and surfed a week’s worth of pumping windswell. I came away feeling like I may never need another wetsuit ever again. It’s hard to believe, but it’s true. Not once did I get cold water rushing down my neck; this is always a good initial indicator of a quality wetsuit. Even after surfing three hours straight, I never got chilled. The Isurus also displayed great flexibility: I could always move my neck and shoulders comfortably and freely. It is the perfect combination in a wetsuit for any watersport. - Chuck Graham

$289.95 • Available at Homegrown Surf Shop (Ventura) and www.surfisurus.com

FOOTWEAR

Chuck Graham putting the Isurus 222 SAF to the test.

PHOTO: LORI GRAHAM

Watershot If you own an iPhone 4, 4s or 5, and you are looking to score some great surfing photos, there aren’t many better values than this case. It is robust, secure, and made by one of the top water housing manufactures in the world, Watershot Inc. With other products that are water resistant, or say waterproof, this is the first water housing for my iPhone that I can trust. It can be taken to 130 feet deep, and comes with an app for rapid pictures or video mode. The housing has a glass lens for optical image clarity, lens baffle for no backscatter light or halo effect, a threaded lens bezel to screw on multiple lens and filters, and a universal tripod mount for maximum flexibility with available adapter to utilize GoPro mounts. - Shawn Tracht

$99.00 • Available at www.watershot.com

Mon - Sat. 10-7 pm, Sundays 11-5 pm • (805) 383-12881775 Daily Drive #C in Camarillo (In the Baja Fresh Center) Revolution Surf Co.

REVOSURF.comRevolution1996

All your Surfi ng and Lifestyle Needs Join the Revolution

SIN

CE

199

6

SERVICES:Rentals • Ding Repair Demos • Surf Lessons (Ventura Makos partner)

PRODUCTS:Surfboards • Wetsuits

Skateboards NEW SUP Section

Surf Shop ChallengeWest Coast ChampsSurf Shop ChallengeSurf Shop Challenge

Surf n’ Turf

For Tee Times call (805) 782-8060Download Promotional Coupon at www.slocountyparks.org/promo_vcb_tag.htm

3 Golf Courses, One Ocean


Who would have thought eight years ago, after “meeting” a little Maui’s Dolphin, I would be writing this. The Maui’s Dolphin is one of the world’s smallest dolphins, endemic to New Zealand. Well, actually it was a life-sized replica of the Maui’s—named after a Polynesian god by the first peoples of New Zealand—found only in a very small region of the

west coast of the North Island; nowhere else in the world. For eight consecutive years since, my association with this little dolphin

has been through working in the community of Raglan, as a volunteer mainly organizing art action activities at Maui’s Dolphin Day. Environmental groups from across the country gather here each year to celebrate and raise awareness to the plight of the critically endangered Maui’s, actually the world’s most endangered, a sub-species of the also critically endangered Hector’s Dolphins (Cephalorhynchus hectori). The latter have fallen 75 percent, with only about 7,200 left. In 2008, the population of Maui’s (Cephalorhynchus hectori maui) was estimated at 111.

Last year the Department of Conservation, NZ (DOC) updated the number to only 55 adults over the age of 1 year, with a possible 20 breeding females, and maximum possibility of 69 individuals if counting the juveniles; a drop by 40 percent in five years! It is no surprise that I’ve never seen a Maui’s Dolphin in real life, which obviously are in dire

straits for survival.The main threat to these dolphins is drowning in gillnets and set nets. Trawling

with gillnets, while banned in many countries, is still allowed in New Zealand waters. Although, there are some very small areas where these fishing methods

are banned. However, these zones represent a relatively small portion of these dolphins’ habitats which have proven to be inadequately monitored. Death is usually

the result of bycatch and set nets continue to drive the Maui’s to the brink of extinction. Current protection is so inadequate, it's been projected that the Maui's dolphins will

become practically extinct by 2030 as a result of fishing. There is no denying it; after a summit of the world’s leading cetacean experts in January 2002, 25 scientists from six

D O L P H I N SB Y

P E G G Y O K I

CRUSADE FOR

— continued

PHOTO: CIARAN EDWARDS

Maui dolphin breaching.

www.DEEPZINE.com 61

Maui signified.

Jack Johnson and Peggy Oki.

Stand up and be counted! Aerial photograph with nearly 300 people.

PHOTO: PEGGY OKIPHOTO: DROIDW

ORX AERONAVIX, LTD

PHOTO: JAMES PIKE


continents reached consensus that the single biggest threat facing cetaceans worldwide is death as bycatch in fishing gear. More whales, dolphins and porpoises die every year by getting entangled in fishing gear than from any other cause. Researchers at Duke University and the University of St. Andrews in Scotland estimate a global annual average of nearly 308,000 deaths per year—or nearly 1,000 per day. Fishing gear that poses the biggest danger to cetaceans include: gillnets, and set nets “…gillnets are responsible for a very high proportion of global cetacean bycatch. Experts agree that wherever there are gillnets, there is cetacean bycatch.”

Alternative methods of fishing that do not pose such threat to dolphins can be made with relatively minor transition. Why aren’t these shifts being made, and why hasn’t the New Zealand government taken enough protective measures?

While most people’s perception of New Zealand is that of a very “Green” environmentally conscious nation, truth is the current government has favored the fisheries industries throughout waters within their jurisdiction to as far as the Ross Sea, Antarctica (ref: “The Last Ocean”). Not in any way criticizing the good people of New Zealand, a land, as with many others, where environmental news infrequently makes headlines. However, a recent Yale University study which dropped New Zealand down to 14th in world ranking as an environmentally rated nation, might give the government some food for thought.

In just this past year (2012-13), marine scientists and member nations of the IWC

(International Whaling Commission) Scientific Committee, IUCN (International Union of Conservation Nations), over 50 animal welfare NGOs, and most recently the Society for Marine Mammalogy (SMM) have all expressed concern through letters calling upon the New Zealand government for urgent measures to prevent extinction of the Maui’s.

In February 2012, I began coordinating "Let’s Face It”, a campaign encouraging citizens worldwide to collect photographs of people with an image of a Maui’s or Hector’s Dolphin, with intention of presenting these visual petitions (VPs) to the New Zealand government. By April 2012, 1,000 VPs were printed in sets of three large banners for public display, including posters which were hand delivered to the three key decision makers regarding the Maui’s and Hector’s Dolphins Threat Management Plan (TMP). “Let’s Face It” continues to keep pressure up with follow up emails including the link to our VP wall, now representing over 5,800 people across the world.

Standing with concerns expressed by scientists internationally, we call upon the New Zealand government to implement all measures necessary to save these

dolphins from extinction. Announcement of the Maui’s Dolphin TMP is expected within weeks. Please join us in sending our powerful global message for these dolphins to these decision makers that the world is watching.

Since founding the Origami Whales Project nine years ago, Peggy Oki created the Whales & Dolphins Ambassador Program (WDAP). For more infomration visit www.peggy-oki.com/cu_origami.html.

Currens for Maui's.

PHOT

O: O

KI

From left, Keith Malloy, Peggy Oki and Chris Malloy.

PHOT

O: JU

STIN

BAS

TIEN

CALIFORNIA beer festivalCALIFORNIA beer festival

TM

do you like do you like

for more information & to buy tickets:for more information & to buy tickets:

CaliforniaBeerFestival.com

SANTA CRUZ - APTOS VILLAGE PARKAUGUST 10, 2013

SAN DIMAS - FRANK G. BONELLI PARKSEPTEMBER 7, 2013

VENTURA - MISSION PARK

SEPTEMBER 21 & 22, 2013

craft beer?craft beer?

VENTURA SURF SHOP88 E. Thompson Blvd. Ventura, CA 93001Open Mon. - Sat. 9-6 pm, Sunday 9-5 pm

805.643.1062 • www.venturasurfshop.com

“Ventura’s Premier Surf Shop since 1961”

Team Rider Tim Nesbet

A NEW Multifunctional Sports Bag Has Arrived

Transports Easy to Carry Showers Off No Sand Easy to Store

www.NEWFSURFBOARDNET.com

SACREDsurfhi.com


GREEN ROOM

Eco Surf Artist Titus RuizBY DEREK DODDS

DEEP: Where do you live and create your art? TITUS RUIZ: I was born in Peru, but in the last 15 years, I have been living in different parts of Central America, North America, and Europe. Now I spend most of the year in Tenerife (Canary Islands) and the rest in Peru with my family. The creative process is constant and everywhere. I always carry a notebook to

write and sketch things that I see everyday: usually, scenes or simple elements serve as inspiration.

DEEP: How did it all begin? TR: I am a graphic designer by profession, so I was always interested in art and graphics, but it was not until 1997 that I started experimenting with painting. I moved to town and started to live alone, far from the big city

Every surfer is an artist.Think about it, each wave is a blank canvas and your art is the expression of your turn, the line you draw down the face, and the way you carve the lip—if you surf, you are an artist.

Robert Franken in his book Human Motivation defines creativity as the tendency to generate or recognize ideas, alternatives, or possibilities that may be useful in entertaining ourselves.

I don’t know about you, but that sounds a lot like surfing, which is full of split second ideas , alternatives, and infinite possibilities.

Some of us also use that creative and artistic energy outside of the sea—we build surfboards, write poems, take photographs, make music, and paint pictures.

Every now and again, we come across a stoked artist who is inspired by the sea that captures the spirit and stoke of surfing. When I stumbled upon Titus, I was interested in the backstory of this surfer—having done a fair amount of painting in my own life, it always amazes when someone chooses the life of an artist.

One of the reasons we surf is to capture something magical, almost ephemeral, and for someone to capture that “thing” we all feel in surfing and translate it into an expression on canvas is a true gift. Enter eco-surfer and artist Titus Ruiz.

September 20-21, 2013 in Pismo Beach

Memorial Paddle Out & Benefi t DinnerFriday, September 20

Longboard Surfi ng Contest & Health Fair

Saturday, September 21

Registration & information: www.surfi ngforhope.com

All proceeds benefi t the programs and patients at

“Helping INSPIRE people

challenged by CANCER through the POSITIVE

ENERGY of SURFING”of SURFING”

PROTECT YOUR HOME & PROPERTYKitchen Hood SystemsFire Suppression SystemsFire Pumps, Hoses, NozzlesFire Sprinklers / ExtinguishersWildland Property AssessmentFire Protection Gels, Foams, Paints

“Your Fire Protection Connection since 1978”

(805) 684-0805 •JOYEQUIPMENT.com

www.DEEPZINE.com 65

and friends, with no TV. The day grew long and I found two tubes of paint, blue and white, and that was it. I was slowly learning and teaching myself.

DEEP: What inspires you to be a surf artist? TR: I believe that everything around us is always inspiring: the sea, sun, surf, women—the little details, music, and nature.

DEEP: Which other artists do you respect? TR: I respect all artists by the simple fact of being, and I mean those artists who work with their hands, mind and soul—those who have the ability to convey feelings about what they do and create.

DEEP: What is art? TR: It’s difficult to define. It involves a myriad of features to consider and that makes it relative, but I would say that it is the expression of what one carries inside and can transmit to others, generating sensations or feelings.

DEEP: What material do you use? TR: I use mainly oil, yet I also like drawing with markers, acrylic, ink, and pencils—I like to experiment with any medium.

DEEP: Who buys your art? TR: Generally everyone who smiles and is happy to see my work, and wants to keep this feeling close. But most people who buy my work are surfers and people connected with the sea and nature.

DEEP: You must be a surfer, what do you think of today’s surfing culture? TR: Yes I am. I personally think that surf is now becoming fashionable and trendy—I am glad that there are still “soul surfers” who keep the essence of old school surf alive. Surf is something important, fun and part of nature, and I enjoy it in the simplest way.

DEEP: Do you have any thought on ecology and surfing? TR: Definitely. All of us belong to nature, and we must take care of it, it is the environment in which we surf, and it makes us happy by giving us natural beauty. Being aware of this and spreading the form of caring is everyone’s responsibility—surfers are stewards of our ocean.

DEEP: Where can people find your art online? TR: Well, I have a website (www.titusruiz.com) and also a Facebook Fan Page (www.facebook.com/titusartwork).

Go create something today, either in the ocean or on land. Make your life an authentic expression of who you are and what you stand for, and show it to the world through your art. You are an artist; don’t let anyone ever tell you different.

I’d love to hear your comments and feedback. For more information on ecology and surfing as your art, write to [email protected] or look for me on a Mini Simmons around Ventura county beaches.

Hours: M-F 10-8p, Sat. 10-7p, Sun. 11-5p

805.736.1730 1307-C North H St., Lompoc

surfconnection.net

back to school! We have you covered!

shoesbackpacks

pantsshirts

& more

Hours: M-F 10-8p, Sat. 10-7p, Sun. 11-5p

& more

— continued


The forecast was for sharks. Posted June 28 on Cape Cod Shark Hunters’s website: “George Breen discovered a

16-foot great white shark during his routine flight this afternoon. The sharks have returned to the area so swimmers are asked to use caution. Do not swim at dusk or in locations heavily populated by seals.”

The Hunters are a pod of Cape fishermen who tagged sharks for scientific research with the Massachusetts Division of Marine Fisheries and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute. “We are here to keep you safe in the water,” their site promises. “Tag a shark, save a tourist!”

As a shark-loving tourist from California, on June 28, I chose to bodysurf in the shapely shorepound at Cahoon Hollow Beach, a pretty place with mountainous sand dunes, drinkers, and diners in the Wellfleet Beachcomber, an ex-lifeguard station that today is an axis of summer.

On June 28, the Atlantic was calmly cool to the horizon, Spain the next port of land, 3,110 miles east. Belly waves barreled along the yellow-sand shore. A haven for city dwellers, Cahoon’s wide beach was flecked with colorful umbrellas and plastic chairs and pasty-white humans, evidence of the recent seasonal shift.

June 28 was a serene portal to the Cape summer—warm, windless, with a few white

wisps of cloud, rips in a vast blue curtain. The drive east from verdant Lakeville was first cleaved by a bloating lunch of fried clams and Coke at the Seafood Shanty on Route 6, the paved release valve for Bostonian surfers, two hours behind.

“But most a’ da real soifas, yeah, they live out hee’ on da Cape,” said a heavily-accented stocky guy on the barstool next to me. He looked like Homer Simpson.

“Are you one of them?”“Nah,” he said between gulps of Bud Light. “I don’ soif.”“Stand-up paddle?”“Nah.”I finished my beer and walked back down the steep, sandy beach trail for another round

of shorebreak body-whomp. I wanted to see some more seals—I’d swam near one earlier—which lure sharks, a natural Cape occurrence ever since this big arm-shaped sandspit was born.

“Yeah,” the beach lifeguard told me. “Everyone’s hopin’ to see a shark, man. People keep askin’ me, ‘Where are the sharks? We gonna see one? Where can we see one?’”

“You see any out here?”“Not yet. They’re all down by Chatham and Monomoy. That’s where the seals hang out.

Especially Monomoy. It’s nuts.”

B Y M I C H A E L K E W

TRAVEL: New England

www.DEEPZINE.com 67

This sign doesn't pertain to the local white sharks.

Hues of New England's rich

maritime heritage.

Brendan McCray playing two hand touch with the lip line during hurricane Sandy. Cape Cod, Mass.

Morning glow over one of the many empty Cape Cod beach breaks. Fall is the best time of year to be a East Coaster.

PHOTO: TREVOR MURPHY

PHOT

O: KE

W

PHOT

O: KE

W

PHOT

O: M

URPH

Y


Treading water near the lifeguard’s tower, waiting for a wave, I reckoned Monomoy might be great for bodysurfing.

July in Hampton Beach, New Hampshire, looked nothing like the 10 pages of wave porn that photographer Brian Nevins decorated in “Seasonal Exceptions,” his 2006 feature in The Surfer’s Journal. Shapely slabs, a golden back-lit left, aerial views of whitewater triangles and rocky points all offered a glimpse of how good the state’s 18 miles of coast can get. It also made me wonder how any East Coast surfer could live anywhere but New Hampshire.

For Nevins, a Hampton native, those photos were the result of living there year-round, witnessing his spots in their finest hours, typically in winter. “I was born in love with the cold,” he wrote. “Surfing the gelid water of New England in winter is not a stunt, a cry for attention, nor an act of courage.”

I felt courageous in the boiling air of New England in summer, inching along in my rented car, negotiating the haze of Hampton

tourists who licked cotton candy and ice cream, and strolling past junk-filled shops hawking black tank-tops that said Party With SlutS. The afternoon air temperature was 90°F, the humidity near 90 percent, and I was thrilled to see rideable waves at The Wall, New Hampshire’s most consistent spot. But I had no surfboard.

“Just grab one from the rental rack outside,” Dave at Cinnamon Rainbows Surf Shop said to me. “You can only surf a few blocks back that way. It’s restricted. Take the sidewalk. Have you got a wetsuit? The water’s gone a bit cold in the last day or two. Offshore wind skimmed all the warm water away.”

I had no wetsuit and wouldn’t don one in such swelter. The beach sand steamed and the tide was too low. The ocean was brisk. The board was a generic orange Thai pop-out and rather kooky but proved handy for catching small windswell peaks off the Route 1A drag. A lifeguard stood on the damp sand at water’s edge, watching the swimmers and non-surfers who were trying to surf, also on Thai

This beach is home to one of the best wedging lefts on the East Coast. Keith Malloy sets up his bottom turn on the front porch of a few lucky homeowners.

PHOTO: CHRIS BURKARD

TRAVEL: New England

www.DEEPZINE.com 69

Staying high, Keith Malloy gets down the line with just as much style as speed.

Offshore winds, perfect sandbars and the whole crew out ! 1 + camera operator = 2. Perfection in more ways than one ... Cape Cod.

Hurricane Nadine swells meets a shapely sandbar.

PHOTO: KEW

PHOTO: MURPHY

PHOTO: BURKARD


pop-outs. To the south lay Great Boar’s Head, a sharp right point, one of the spots in Nevins’s TSJ article. Between waves, I sat on the board and admired the headland, daydreaming about what a double-overhead southeast swell would do to it.

“The point gets really good,” Nevins had said. “Lots of locals are on it, and parking is slim, but it’s great when you get it.”

In July—peak tourist season—there seemed to be no locals in crowded Hampton, nor in scenic Rye, which seduced my uncomfortably hot afternoon into a slow inspection of a particularly fine surfcoast. It was the New Hampshire that I could befriend. But not today.

It was flat.So I thought: Rye might be my place to visit this winter.

Lobster RockShort Sands Beach in York, Maine, poses a kerfuffle because summer surfing there is illegal

until 5 p.m. each day. It becomes a cruel place, at 4 p.m., when there are three separate peaks humping up within view from the Inn on the Blues. I had no surfboard anyway, so I ended up drinking New Hampshire-brewed IPAs on my tiny, private porch.

“Come back in the fall when there’s hurricane swell and you’ll be stoked, a drunken Nick

LaVecchia promised me with a smirk later that night, downstairs in the noisy bar, while I ate lobster, the Maine cliché. Summers are crazy here. Wait till you see the beach parking lot and the traffic tomorrow. Maine is called Vacationland for a reason.

A friendly, stubble-faced photographer and farmers-market maestro, LaVecchia was drinking from a copper cup filled with a Moscow Mule, a mix of vodka, lime, and ginger ale. Soon I was drinking one too.

The next day, I did a book signing in Liquid Dreams Surf Shop, then lucked into some fun, cold waves at Ogunquit Rivermouth, a longtime hub for Maine surfers. LaVecchia had warned me of a likely crowd, since today was Saturday, but surprisingly, there was almost no one out. Front-lit from the late-afternoon sun, the crisp, brown, sand-bottomed rights were rib-high and fast, groomed by light offshores, and the lineup lent a clear view of the umbrella sea on bustling Ogunquit Beach. Tiny Ogunquit (pop. 1,500) itself had just been rated #1 on Yankee magazine’s “25 Best Beach Towns” list; Money magazine once chose York/Ogunquit as “one of the 10 best places to vacation in North America.”

In magazines, I’d seen some of LaVecchia’s non-summer lineups — snowy left points, hollow rights, deep green forests opening to bliss. They exposed the obvious: for Maine surfers, “Vacationland” might never fit.

Keith Malloy taking a slice out of a rippable wedge in Maine.

PHOT

O: B

URKA

RD

www.DEEPZINE.com 71

THE SHACK

des

igned

and made

in california

b u r r i t o s u r f ®

Offer ends 09/01/2013.

Summertime Sale!At checkoutenter promo code “vaquero”and recieve 20% off your order!

®

www.burritosurf.com follow us @burrito_surf

TshirtsTanksScoopsSweatshirtsHatsBeaniesBeer koozies

HOMEGROWN (vta.)

ANACAPA SURF/SPORT (oxn.)

Then there are people who go.There are people who want to go.

HAPPYHOUR!Tues.-Fri. 3-7pm

SENOR FROG’S


~ HAPPYHAPPYHOUR!HOUR!HAPPYHOUR!HAPPYHAPPYHOUR!HAPPYHAPPYHOUR!HAPPYHOUR!Tues.-Fri. 3-7pm

Tues.-Fri. 3-7pmTues.-Fri. 3-7pmTues.-Fri. 3-7pm

ENOR FENOR FENOR ROG’S

Order Out! 805.684.9352892 Linden Ave. • Downtown Carpinteria

BURGERSSandwiches BURRITOS & Traditional Mexican & American Cuisine

2 CENTRAL COAST LOCATIONS

$2 OFFANY PIZZA! ANY SIZE!

Spaghetti • Antipasta Calzones • SaladsHot/Cold Sandwiches Pastas • Fresh Beer on Tap

NOW SERVING

Montecito: 1187 Coast Village Rd., 805-969-1277Carpinteria: 5003 Carpinteria Ave., 805-684-8288FREE CARPINTERIA DELIVERY


Hurricane Sandy impacted the nation and our East Coast like many natural disasters do: the immediate disaster location is a scene of devastation, pain, loss, and feeling of apprehension of whether or not life will ever get back to normal. Unfortunately, life will never be the same, yet the overwhelming amounts of help and relief from the rest of the

country begs for restoration for the losses of our native brothers and sisters.One group in particular, Shores United Relief Fund was created to raise money for “Restore

the Shore,” the bigger relief fund for Hurricane Sandy. Out of this relief effort, West coasters have gotten involved in helping their East Coast brothers and sisters, including Ventura’s Hoyte Surfboards.

I asked owner/shaper of Hoyte Surfboards, Russell Hoyte, how and why he got involved with SURF. I was able to learn how closely the surf community is, no matter the distance. DEEP: How did you get involved with SURF, and what inspired you that you needed to be a part of the relief efforts? Russell Hoyte: As an East Coast native, with friends who own homes and live around the devastated areas, when a friend brought to my attention the efforts that SURF was making, I saw an opportunity to get involved and help.

What I didn’t expect was the friendships and relationships that have now been forged with this group of amazing people. They are highly motivated to help their communities, are selfless and hard working, and relentless in their pursuit to see aid get to the victims. It has been an honor to partner with Ryan Kurek and Michael DiGiacomo who are the co-founders and visionaries behind SURF.

DEEP: What exactly is Hoyte Surfboards doing to help?RH: We are building boards for SURF to sell and raffle at a set discounted price. When sold, 100 percent of the profit goes to the victims of Hurricane Sandy. As a small surfboard-shaping company, it’s hard to have a lot of money to donate to people in need. In this case, I decided to get creative, and donate proceeds from my surfboards.

We have worked with the SURF graphic designer, Brian Begley, on a unique graphic look that represents the Shore and the people of the East Coast. We have also made a commitment for the next two years to donate 10 percent of any retail custom boards for customers who ask for the Shores United Logo on their board. This can be any customer from anywhere.

DEEP: If a local West Coast surfer wants to get involved in the relief efforts, what are different ways we can get involved, either in conjunction with Hoyte Surfboards or directly through SURF?RH: SURF is always looking for artists and companies to collaborate with as well, so contact them either on Facebook or on their website (www.shoresunited.org).

After being inspired by the West Coast love and consideration, The SeaCrest Ocean Front Hotel In Pismo Beach heard about what Hoyte was doing and became involved. Because the hotel is right on the water’s edge in Pismo Beach, the thought of the ocean ruining such a vast amount of the Eastern Seaboard hit home very hard. Nicole Moore, from the SeaCrest Ocean

Front Hotel, contacted Russell Hoyte to see what they could do to get involved. Following Hoyte’s model of using product to raise money, they committed to donating the proceeds of a two rooms stay directly to SURF, as well as 10 percent of every hotel room sold when people mention the promo code “SURF”.

DEEP: What inspired the SeaCrest OceanFront Hotel to get involved with Hoyte Surfboards and SURF?Nicole Moore: Seeing a West Coaster like (Russell) Hoyte get creative in his involvement to raise money for the East Coast really meant a lot to the SeaCrest OceanFront Hotel. It’s often said that even a little bit helps, and in that, we knew we wanted to get involved, even if it was on a small scale. We’re really inspired to see Hoyte’s selflessness and it’s a tribute to how close the surfing community is around the country, whether we really know it or not. We were inspired by his courage and creativeness to help the ocean community that is across the country. We got involved to show our support of the East Coast. For more info on the SeaCrest OceanFront Hotel visit www.seacrestpismo.com

SHORE’S UNITED RELIEF FUNDRussell Hoyte Gets Creative to Donate to the East Coast After Hurricane Sandy

— B Y S H A W N T R A C H T —

PHOT

O: SH

AWN

TRAC

HT

Hoyte with his boards heading east.

www.DEEPZINE.com 73

THE SHACK

2 CENTRAL COAST LOCATIONS

$2 OFFANY PIZZA! ANY SIZE!

Spaghetti • Antipasta Calzones • SaladsHot/Cold Sandwiches Pastas • Fresh Beer on Tap

NOW SERVING

Montecito: 1187 Coast Village Rd., 805-969-1277Carpinteria: 5003 Carpinteria Ave., 805-684-8288FREE CARPINTERIA DELIVERY

SHORE’S UNITED RELIEF FUNDRussell Hoyte Gets Creative to Donate to the East Coast After Hurricane Sandy

— B Y S H A W N T R A C H T —

•Single Pontoon (Speed / Balance)•Catamaran(Stability / Cruising / Yoga) •Triamaran(Double rider / Fishing)• Fits in Most Cars• Easy to Pack & Store • Assembles & Dissembles Easily

818-429-9966 • malibuglider.com

“Get One &

Go Glide!”

Starting at $999.991559 Spinnaker Dr. VENTURA HARBOR805-642-6281

Ventura Swimwear

“Where it’s all about the fit and making you look good”

B Swim • Reef • Luli Fama Vix • L Space • Billabong

O’Neill • VolcomLucy Love • Maui Babe

Awesome Selection of Swimwear Separates & 1-Pieces

Infants to plus sizes, Men’s & Boys

Authorized Concessionaire to the Channel Islands National Parkislandpackers.com • 805-642-1393

Channel Islands Wildlife Cruises

WHALE WATCHING • DINNER CRUISES

HIKE • KAYAK • RELAXDay Trips or Camp onLocal or Remote Outer Islands

ph

ot

o: s

te

ve

mu

nc

h

Available at Surf Country (Goleta)Email: [email protected]


ANACAPA BREWING CO.Ventura’s ONLY

Restaurant & BreweryCome in and enjoy one of our Mouth Watering, Handcrafted Beers on Tap

Open Daily, 11:30 am • 472 E. Main Street • 805-643-2337

www.anacapabrewing.com

Final Frame is brought to you by Anacapa Brewing Co.

Kamchatka, Russia. Dane Gudauskas and Keith Malloy searching for waves via chopper.

PHOTO BY CHRIS BURKARD

Mid-SuMMer

diScount

$25 off if registered

by July 25, 2013


PHOTO BY SETH DE ROULET

Final Frame 2 is brought to you by Endless Summer Bar-Cafe

Timmy Curran pulling in amongst the hordes.

Saturday, August 10th, 2013Linden Field in Carpinteria, California

“Beer Festival by the Beach”Tickets & Info: www.deepfest.com / www.deepzine.com

PRESENTED BY

ILLUSTRATION: EMILY BOELSEM

S

Documents

DEEP Surf Magazine—av8, issue 4_July/August 2013