DAYLILIES 101 Everything you wanted to know about Daylilies, But were afraid to ask!

DAYLILIES 101Everything you wanted to know about Daylilies,

But were afraid to ask!

Why is it called a daylily?


The bloom only lasts one day.


HEMEROCALLIS

The scientific name for the daylily. (From the Greek hemera day + kallos beauty). Originally the genus Hemerocallis was placed in the lily family, Liliaceae, but more recently it has been moved to the family Hemerocallidaceae.

DAYLILY Plants of the genus Hemerocallis, family Hemerocallidaceae. Some older references may still include

Hemerocallis in the lily family, Liliaceae. Generally, a single daylily bud is in bloom for a single day before it begins to wither. Multiple buds on the

scapes provide bloom over a number of weeks each bloom season. Ancient Chinese used the plant's roots, leaves and flowers for food. They also used its roots and crown

as a pain reliever, a diuretic and for other medicinal purposes. Its botanical name, Hemerocallis, derives from two Greek words meaning "beauty" and "day," referring to

the fact that each flower lasts only one day. In some dictionaries and other reference works, this plant may be referred to as "day lily," but the spelling

was consolidated into a single word in 1923 upon the recommendation of the American Joint Committee on Horticultural Nomenclature, as reported by the publication Standardized Plant Names, 1923 edition, Preface, p. x and p. 199.

Why is the daylily a perfect perennial?

Available in a rainbow of colors, a variety of shapes, heights and sizes. There are currently over 60,000 varieties registered with the AHS

Able to survive with very little care in a wide range of climates

Suitable for all types of landscapes Adaptable to various soil and light conditions Known to bloom from late spring until autumn

Where did the daylily originate?

The genus Hemerocallis is native to Asia. Since the early 1930s, hybridizers in the United

States and England have made great improvements in daylilies.

Originally, the only colors were yellow, orange, and fulvous red.

Today, we have colors ranging from near-whites, pastels, yellows, oranges, pinks, vivid reds, crimson, purple, nearly true-blue, and fabulous blends.

Where did the daylily originate?

Many people are familiar with only the common yellow or orange daylilies which are often seen along roadsides.

These daylilies are cultivated forms of the wild types of daylilies which have "escaped" and are growing as if they are wild.

All the modern daylilies have been developed through a complicated history of hybridization among these and other wild types.

What are the parts of a daylily?

The daylily can be characterized as a clump-forming, herbaceous perennial with fibrous or somewhat tuberous roots. The daylily has four fairly distinct growing parts.


Roots The roots of a daylily are long, slender, and fibrous. Or, they may be enlarged into spindle-shaped tubers with additional roots at their bases. The roots absorb water and minerals for use by the plant, and serve as storehouses for food produced by the leaves.


Crown The crown of a daylily is the stem of the daylily plant. It is the solid white core located between the leaves and the roots. The crown produces leaves and scapes from its upper surface. The roots are produced from its sides and lower surface.


Leaves The leaves of daylilies are long, slender, and grass-like. They have a prominent center rib on the underside. The leaves are arranged opposite each other on the crown, giving a flattened appearance which causes the plant to be referred to as a "fan." Multiple fans of a single plant form a "clump.“


Scape The scape of a daylily is a leafless stalk which bears the flowers. Most have two or more branches, each bearing several flower buds. Below the branches, the stalks have a few leaf-like "bracts." Sometimes, a small plantlet grows at the junction of a bract and the scape. This is called a "proliferation" and can be rooted to produce another plant.

Parts of a Daylily

http://www.daylilies.org/ahs_dictionary/dictionary.html

What are the different ways of reproducing a daylily?

Fans Multiplying (identical to the parent) A clump is a group of 3 or more fans together.


Proliferation (identical to the parent)


Hybridizing (Seed Pod) (not identical to the parent, a combination of chromosomes from each parent produces a different plant)

What are the different types of foliage?

Dormant Semi Evergreen Evergreen

All daylilies, regardless of foliage habit, are capable of cold temperature dormancy in the technical sense where it gets cold enough to suspend growth.


The cold-hardiness of daylilies is quite variable. Some are iron-clad hardy. Others are extremely tender. Cold-hardiness is not determined by the foliage habit. Evergreen, dormant, and semi-evergreen can be anything from extremely cold-hardy to extremely tender. To avoid risk of losing a cultivar, choose daylilies which others have already grown successfully in your climate.


Garden with all foliage types


the term "dormant" refers to daylilies that lose their foliage completely before or shortly after frost and over-winter with pointed foliage buds, usually just beneath the soil surface. Dormants will resume growth in spring.


Semi Evergreen is intermediate foliage behavior that is not adequately described as simply DORMANT or EVERGREEN.


The foliage habit of daylilies that retain their foliage throughout the year. In cold winter climates, evergreen daylilies over-winter as a mound of frozen pale green foliage. Evergreens may resume growth during a mid-winter thaw in mild climates. Evergreen daylilies do not set resting buds.

What are the different ploidy?

Plants all have a basic complement of chromosomes. Most plants are diploid. they have two identical sets of chromosomes in each cell. Polyploids are plants with more than two sets of chromosomes. A tetraploid is only one of a whole series of polyploids. Triploids have three sets of chromosomes, tetraploids have four sets of chromosomes, et cetera.


Tetraploid – Having four sets of chromosomes in each cell of the plant (in daylilies, 44 chromosomes altogether.) That is twice the number found in the sex cells (sperm and egg)

Tetraploid daylilies are heralded by some growers as having a number of advantages over diploids. In the tetraploid:

Flowers tend to be larger. Colors of the flower tend to be more intense. Scapes tend to be sturdier and stronger. Substance of both flower and foliage tend to be heavier. Vegetative vigor in leaf, stem, and flower tend to be greater. Breeding possibilities tend to be greater because of an increased number of

chromosomes


Diploid – A plant having two complete sets of the basic set of chromosomes. A diploid daylily has 22 chromosomes. One set of 11 comes from the egg cell, one set from the sperm cell in the pollen.

Diploid daylilies continue to charm growers with their exquisite flower form, grace, and color. Good pink daylilies are still more prevalent in the diploid ranks.

Spider and double daylilies are still more prevalent in the diploid ranks. Diploid daylilies are easier to cross than tetraploids. Many diploid daylilies have been converted to tetraploids, thus advancing the

tetraploid lines. There are more diploids than tetraploids.

What is the blooming sequence?

EE - Extra Early E - Early EM - Early Mid M - Mid ML - Mid Late L – Late VL – Very Late Peak – 1st or 2nd week in June in South Carolina

What are the Characteristics of a Daylily?

Reblooms - Having more than one cycle of flowering per year.

Fragrant - have a very light pleasing scent. Some cultivars are more heavily scented than others. Scent may vary with the time of the day and weather conditions

Nocturnal - A flower that opens sometime after late day and remains open during the night and perhaps all or part of the following day (in which case it may also be an EXTENDED bloomer.)

Extended Bloom - Flowers that remain open 16 hours or more

Height – The height of the scape


Bloom Size is used for classification at AHS Exhibition shows.– Miniature is less than 3” in diameter– Small is more than 3” but less than 4 ½”– Large is more than 4 ½” and less than 7”– Extra Large is more than 7”


Branching - Used to describe daylily scapes that have lateral branchlets, each containing a cluster of buds. Three-way branching may describe a scape with three branchlets, but is used by some hybridizers to indicate there are three side branches as well as a cluster of blooms at the top of the scape. One way to signify this is "3-4 way branching", indicating 3 laterals and one terminal cluster of buds.


Bud Count - Since each daylily flower is only open one day, the number of buds each scape carries is indicative of how many flowers the plant will bear on a single scape. The bud count can be determined by counting the number of buds, seed pods and bloom scars and adding these together.

COLOR and PATTERNS

Modern hybrid daylilies have a remarkably diverse color range, especially considering that the wild types from which they have been bred were only in shades of yellow, orange, fulvous and rosy-fulvous. Today, the only colors notably lacking are pure white and pure blue. Needless to say, hybridizers are avidly pursuing these two colors.

COLOR and PATTERNS

Basic Flower Color The outer portion of the daylily flower is

considered to be the basic color of the flower. The present daylily color range includes:

COLOR and PATTERNS

Yellow all shades from the palest lemon, through bright yellow and gold, to orange.

Red diverse shades of scarlet, carmine, tomato-red, maroon, wine-reds, and blackish-reds.

Pink from pale pink through rose-pink to rose-red.

COLOR and PATTERNS

Purple from pale lavender and lilac to deep grape or violet.

Melon or Cream-Pink from palest cream shades to deep cantaloupe shades.

Notes: Buff, Brown, Apricot, and Peach are thought to be variations of pink plus yellow. Near-whites are found among the palest tints of yellow, pink, lavender, or melon.

COLOR and PATTERNS

Throat Color The center area of the daylily flower is called the throat.

In most daylilies, the throat color differs from the rest of the flower. Usually it is a shade of green, yellow, gold, orange, apricot,

or melon.

COLOR and PATTERNS

Stamen Color Like the throat, the stamens may be a

different color from the basic flower

color and the throat color.

Or, the stamens may be of matching

color. Usually they are light yellow

to greenish. The anthers at the tips

of the stamens are often

darker in color sometimes black.

COLOR and PATTERNS Self – A flower having perianth segments all of the same color. The throat

region can be a different color. In a complete self the segments, throat, pistil and stamens will all be the same color

Neon Sunshine

COLOR and PATTERNS

Blend – Flower with an intermingling of two or more colors

Diva Bride

COLOR and PATTERNS

Polychrome – Flowers blending and intermingling many colors

without distinct bands.

Dancing

With Dixie

COLOR and PATTERNS Bitone – A flower with inner and outer segments of different tints of the same basic color. A bitone has lighter outer segments (sepals) and darker inner segments (petals).

Browns Ferry

Firecracker

COLOR and PATTERNS Reverse Bitone – Flower with lighter inner segments and outer

segments of a darker color.

Concorde Nelson

COLOR and PATTERNS Bicolor – A daylily flower whose petal segments are of a completely different color than its sepal segments

Old King Cole

COLOR and PATTERNS Reverse Bicolor – A daylily flower whose petal segments are of a

completely different color than its sepal segments

Crackling Fire

COLOR and PATTERNS Eyed – The zone of a different color occurs on both petal & sepal

Womanizer

COLOR and PATTERNS Band – The zone of a different color occurs only on the petals

Ashley Danielle

COLOR and PATTERNS Halo - The zone of a different color is faint or only lightly visible

MeMe’s Sunshine

COLOR and PATTERNS Watermark - The zone of a different color is lighter shade than the rest of the flower

The Color of Wonderful

COLOR and PATTERNS Edged – Distinctly different color occurring along the outer edge of the segments of a daylily.

Windsor Plantation

COLOR and PATTERNS Edges – Edges can be structural, i.e. have knobs, braids, tentacles, fringe, and teeth.

Interview with a Vampire

COLOR and PATTERNS Picotee – A specific type of edge on a flower, where the edge is of a different color than that of the flower's base

color. Picotees can have borders or margins which are lighter or darker, but they should be of a contrasting color, i.e., white edge on a red flower or red edge on an eyed flower. The only criterion is that the edge be of a contrasting color as the base of the flower; it can sometimes take bizarre shapes as well as hooks, horns, teeth, bubbles, braids, or fringe. All picotees are edges, but not all edges are picotees. All picotees are picoteed edges.

Clear Horizons

COLOR and PATTERNS Veining - A color pattern on the floral segments in which the base color and the veins within these tepals are of a contrasting color.

Mapping Carolina

COLOR and PATTERNS Midrib – The principal lengthwise vein of a leaf or of a perianth segment (petals

and sepals). On the perianth segments the midribs may be the same color as the segment or of a contrasting color as in the sample photo.

Chick Flick

COLOR and PATTERNS Patterned – A daylily that exhibits variations in hue, value, or saturation of the base, midrib, or

throat color, in such a way that a design is created beyond that of a bold or solid eye, band, halo or watermark, with or without simple picotee edging. This type of "patterning" includes, but is not limited to, daylilies with concentric rings or feathering of color

within the eyezone or elsewhere. It excludes selfs, simple bitones, and simple bicolors.

Ribbons of Color

COLOR and PATTERNS Appliquéd – The term "applique" comes from the French word for "apply", and in art refers to one

material applied to the surface of another. Hybridizer Bill Munson used the term to describe throats in daylilies such as Hemerocallis 'Chinese Temple Flower' (Munson-I. 1980). An appliqued throat has the appearance of being raised and applied or painted onto the surface color(s) of the tepals. The applique can be variable over time and location.

Hope Floats

COLOR and PATTERNS

Diamond Dusted – Flowers having structures that produce a glitter-like quality on

the petal surface. When the sparkles appear white, it is referred to as diamond dusting. Some reference works also recognize the fact that some of these reflections on yellow cultivars appear to be gold and yellow - these are called gold dusted

What are the different forms of a daylily?

Single Double

– Peony– Hose in Hose

Spider Unusual Form

– Crispates– Cascades– Spatulates

Polymerous Sculpted

– Pleated– Cristate– Relief

What are the subforms of a daylily?

Circular Triangular Star Informal Flat

Recurved Trumpet

Muriel Rhem

SINGLE - Daylily flowers that have three petals, three sepals, six stamens

and one pistil (comprised of three carpels) are known as "single" daylilies.

DOUBLE - "Peony type" doubles have petaloid (petal-like) stamens

inside the normal petal whorl. Carpels may also be petaloid

Amy’s Seeing Double

DOUBLE - "Hose-in-Hose" doubles have extra whorls (layers) of petals

so that there appears to be a flower within a flower

Double Layer

SPIDER - A flower whose petal length is four times the petal's width or

more, a ratio of 4.0:1 or greater.

SkinWalker

UNUSUAL FORM – CrispateCrispates may contain pinched segments, twisting segments, or quilling on one or more segments.

Fire Arrow

UNUSUAL FORM – CascadeA "cascade" refers to a small, steep waterfall or something resembling it. The cascade form may include cascading or curling of segments.

Papa Goose

UNUSUAL FORM – SpatulateFloral segments are markedly wider at the end, resembling a kitchen spatula.

Maximilian Kobe

POLYMEROUS - Polymerous is an adjective used to designate a

daylily with more than the normal number of segments in each floral whorl, i.e., more than the normal three sepals (usually four or five) in the outer whorl and more than three petals (usually the same number as sepals) in the inner whorl.

Carolina Flying

PolyPossum

SCULPTED – PleatedPetals that have a deep longitudinal crease on each side of the midrib. These creases cause folding of the petal upon itself creating a raised platform extending from the top of the perianth tube and ending between the throat and the petal tip.

Fad Gadget

SCULPTED – CristateA term that refers to appendages of extra petal tissue growing from the midrib or elsewhere on the surface of the petals. When the extra tissue grows from the midribs, the form is called “Midrib Cristate”.

Texas Feathered

Fancy

SCULPTED – ReliefThe relief forms are characterized by vertically raised ridges that extend from the throat and project from the petal surface. The ridges may grow parallel to the veins, or they may radiate outwards from each side of the midrib.

Williamsburg County

What performance characteristics are used in describing daylilies?

When purchasing a daylily, consider foliage, vigor and stamina, scapes, branching and buds, and flower substance.


Foliage Variation in foliage is important for contrast in color and

texture in the total garden picture. Consider the following:

Foliage is best judged when you are not unduly influenced by the beauty of flower.

Foliage must have an attractive appearance. Foliage should be of a type that is compatible with

your climate.


Vigor and StaminaAs to vigor and stamina, the daylily plant should: Have the ability to grow and multiply under good

conditions without being invasive of adjacent areas by underground rhizomes.

Establish quickly, thrive, and grow stronger each year.

Be easy to transplant. Not be susceptible to crown rot or spring sickness.


ScapesScapes should have the following qualities: The scape must have adequate strength to support the buds

and flowers (i.e., you should not have to stake the scape because of wind, rain, or directional light).

The height of the scape and the size of the flower should be in good proportion to the thickness of the scape.


Branching and BudsWhen evaluating branching and buds on daylilies, remember the

following: The scape should branch so that the buds are not all at the top

of the scape. Flowers should not open all together or be poorly spaced. Branches should be wide apart to allow buds to develop normally

without touching and hampering the opening of the fully developed flower.

Branching and bud count should not be so sparse that flowering ends after a few days.


BalanceGood balance means that the overall daylily

plant has a pleasing relationship between the

foliage and the placement of branches, buds,

and flowers. Remember: Short foliage and tall scapes with scant

high branching often appear poorly balanced. Emphasis should be placed on how the

scape relates to the rest of the plant,

regardless of height.


Flower SubstanceFlower substance is very important when selecting your daylily.

Consider the following: Flower tissue should not be thin, and should not wilt, brown, or

melt at the edges. If the flower fades during the day, substance should be retained

reasonably well. A flower that opens early in the morning should remain

presentable in the evening.


Flower ColorColor has a strong emotional appeal. Consider the following: Most people find merit in colors that are clear, bright, soft, vibrant,

distinctive, and pleasingly blended. Well-defined markings can add much to the beauty of a flower.

Murky, dingy, streaked, dull, and faded colors can seldom be considered an asset. Irregular markings are usually considered a flaw, but a few hybridizers are working with spots and streaks and getting some interesting results.

Like many things, some colors and patterns are currently popular, and something new is always being looked for and pursued. For instance, getting bands of color within eyes or green on petal edges are currently areas of interest.


Flower Form Flower form, along with color, sets one flower apart from

another. Many variations in form are favored equally by many daylily collectors; a particular form is favored by others.

Malformed flowers, dissimilarity of segment shape (except in informal types), and lack of uniformity in placement of flower segments are undesirable aspects of form.


Flower TextureTexture refers to the surface quality of the flower. Consider the

following: Texture varies from cultivar to cultivar - from the very smooth

satiny waxy finish to velvety, creped, pebbled, diamond-dusted, and glistening - to name a few.

Decide whether flower quality suffers by its texture or is enhanced and beautified by it.


Beauty and Distinction Beauty and distinction are two essential factors for any worthwhile

daylily. Many daylilies are being sold that do not possess that special quality called beauty.

The old saying is true; beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

When buying a new daylily, ask these questions about distinction: Has the daylily that special quality that sets it apart from others of a

similar kind? Is the color, pattern, or special blending of colors different or rare? Is the form and texture unique, different, and beguiling; is it something

special? Does the daylily have the qualities to make it a star in your garden?

How do I obtain daylilies?

Commercial Sources Many commercial nurseries and individual daylily growers sell daylilies. Consider the following recommendations: Visit nurseries and AHS Display Gardens in your area during the daylily bloom season and see which cultivars appeal to you and which ones grow well locally.

Annually, the American Hemerocallis Society publishes an Available Source List of daylily growers in the spring issue of the Daylily Journal.

Many commercial daylily growers listed in the Available Source List offer color brochures listing their daylilies. Many mail their brochures free to members of the American Hemerocallis Society.

A number of commercial daylily growers now have WWW Home Pages on the Internet.

How do I obtain daylilies?

Society Sales and Auctions Local and regional daylily societies often hold plant sales and auctions. Auctions are held at meetings or by mail. There is even an auction at each AHS National Convention.

Friends Because daylilies usually multiply fast and need to be divided periodically, daylily fanciers often share some of their increase with new growers.

How much do daylilies cost?

Daylily prices range from as low as $3 to as much as $500 for a single plant.

Do not be scared off by the high price as there are thousands of excellent daylilies in the $3 to $10 price range.

Only the newest daylilies or significant advances in breeding bring prices of $100 to $300.Some recent tetraploid conversions in very limited supply demand the highest prices.

New growers should venture cautiously into high-price expenditures that might bring disappointment because of high expectations based on high price.

When is the right time to plant?

North

In the North, spring planting is normally preferred. Fall planting in colder climates can prove fatal for daylilies because they often do not have adequate time to form new roots and to begin to anchor themselves before winter comes. Experienced gardeners, however, can plant in the fall provided they: Know the hardiness of the plants

Take some preventative measures such as mulching. Learn the time of the year after which it is not safe to plant in their location

South

In the far South, early spring or very late fall are the most desirable planting times. Please be aware that daylilies planted in July, August, or September when temperatures and humidity are extremely high (i.e., over 90°), face a high probability of rotting.

Where is the best place to plant my daylilies?

Sun or Shade Most daylilies do best in full sun. They will tolerate part-shade conditions, but require a minimum of six hours of direct sun per day. Light yellow cultivars, many shades of pink, and delicate pastels need full sun to bring out their lovely colorings.

Many red and purple cultivars benefit from partial shade in the hottest part of the day because dark colors absorb heat and do not withstand the sun as well as lighter colors.

Type of Soil Like most plants, daylilies show maximum performance in soils with good aeration, fertility and microbial activity. The ideal soil holds sufficient moisture to sustain the plants, yet is at the same time well-drained. These characteristics can be improved in soils that have too much sand or clay by amending with compost.

Where is the best place to plant my daylilies?

Drainage For maximum performance, daylilies should be planted in well-drained soil. In some regions raised beds may be beneficial where drainage is a problem. However raised beds should be approached with caution in cold winter regions as being elevated can make the plants more vulnerable to temperature extremes and fluctuations. Note also that raised beds generally require more irrigation during the summer.

Compatibility with Other Plants Daylilies may not do well near or under trees that compete for moisture and nutrients. They are often reported to do well under pine trees, however each situation should be assessed individually. Plants that must compete with tree roots often do better if supplied with extra watering.

How do I plant my daylilies?

After Plants Are Received New daylily plants received bare-root by mail may be "parked" in damp sand or other suitable media until they can be planted. Many daylily enthusiasts like to soak the roots for a few hours or overnight in a bucket of water, however others do not agree with this practice. Some gardeners also include a weak fertilizer in the soaking water, but this isn't necessary and, if too strong a solution, may actually be detrimental.

Before Planting Make sure that your daylilies are clean and healthy before planting them.


Prepare the Soil The soil where you intend to plant your daylilies should be worked into a good loose condition to a depth of at least 1 foot. Dig a hole larger than the root mass.

Make a mound in the center of the hole. Set the plant in place with the roots spread on all sides of the mound. New plants should be planted about as deep as they grew originally. The

original depth can be determined easily by the band of white at the base of the foliage which indicates the part of the plant which was underground.

Do not set the crown (i.e., the point where foliage and roots join) more than 1 inch below the surface of the soil.


Work the soil around and between the roots as you cover the plant. Firm the soil and water well. Make sure that there are no air pockets; this can cause the plant to grow poorly. When all the water has soaked in, finish filling in the soil, leaving a slight

depression around the plant.


Spacing Daylilies should be spaced no less than 18 to 24 inches apart on each side.

Labeling Label each of your daylilies with some type of permanent marker so as to

identify them. A plant loses much of its value when its identification is lost.

What do I need to do to care for daylilies?

Water - they like this better than anything else.

Fertilizer – a good 16-4-8 formula works well

Mulching – don’t cover the crown

Grooming – remove spent blooms and scapes. Remove dead foliage.

Controlling weeds Sanitation – to prevent pests and diseases


Watering Water is essential for good daylily performance. Water, supplied in sufficient

amounts, almost certainly increases the number and size of daylily blooms. For daylilies, watering is most important in spring when the plants are making

scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into

the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings. Caution 1: Overhead watering during the heat of the day will cause any open

blooms to spot and/or wilt. Caution 2: Watering in the evening can also cause spots on the next day's

blooms. Caution 3: Be careful not to over water.


Fertilizing Daylilies grow in a wide range of soils and conditions. To determine the nutrient needs of your soil, take a soil sample and have

it analyzed. Contact your local county agricultural agent for instructions. Daylilies can do well over a relatively wide soil pH range and adjustment

of pH need only be considered if the plants appear to be doing poorly. A soil test as recommended above should always be conducted before amending with sulfur or lime.

In the average home garden, a single fertilizer application in the spring is usually sufficient, although even that may not be necessary every year.

In extremely poor soils or on light or sandy soils which tend to leach badly, more frequent application may be required. Consult with your local agriculture office for recommendations suitable to your soil and climate.


Mulching Mulching, although not essential in every area, generally does

contribute to better daylilies by improving the soil and helping retain moisture.

Grooming Keep your garden neat and tidy. Many gardeners remove the day's

blooms at the end of the day to give their gardens a pristine appearance.

If you hybridize, expect to leave the pollinated blooms on the plants until the blossom sheds and the tiny seed pod is formed.


Controlling Weeds The most effective weed control measures for the home garden are

mulching and hoeing.

Sanitation Proper sanitation measures lead to healthier daylilies. In the spring,

dead foliage and debris should be cleared away from around your daylilies.

During the growing season, damaged or diseased foliage should be removed.

At the end of the bloom season, cut off the bloom scapes to within a few inches of the ground unless you are hybridizing.

What pests affect daylilies?

Aphids

Daylilies have their own specific aphid which feeds only on daylilies.

Aphids are most active in cool weather, spring and fall in temperate zones, and all winter long in the subtropics.

Controlling daylily aphids is not as easy as with other kinds of aphids, which are usually vulnerable to such soft controls as soaps.

In order to reach daylily aphids inside the fans, a pesticide with at least a mildly systemic action is needed.

Do not use the pesticide Kelthane, which is known to harm daylilies.


Spider mites are among the most common daylily pests. Spider mites are most active in hot, dry weather. You can get some control of spider mites just by hosing them

off as needed. Again, do not use the pesticide Kelthane; it is known to harm

daylilies.


Thrips Several species of thrips are know to infest daylilies. Control

thrips by starting early in the growing season with a pesticide having either a systemic or long residual action.

To repeat, do not use the pesticide Kelthane.


Slugs and Snails Slugs and snails feed on the young, tender tissues, causing

ragged edges and holes. They feed at night and hide during the day in cool, moist places, such as in mulch, under rocks and bricks, and in dead foliage.

Sanitation helps to control slugs and snails. Otherwise, control requires using pesticides which are targeted specifically at these pests.


Other insect pests which have been reported affecting daylilies include cutworms, tarnished plant bugs, cucumber beetles, wasps, Japanese beetles, grasshoppers, and periodical cicadas.

Bulb mites may be involved in the transmittal of crown rot. Deer will sometimes eat daylily flower buds.

See http://www.daylilies.org/ahs_dictionary/pests.html for a complete description of all daylily pests.

What diseases affect daylilies?

Rust – Caused by a fungus (Puccinia hemerocallidis) Orange-yellow powdery spots on leaves and scapes Orange-yellow spores mark white tissue when leaves wiped Leaves may die back but the plant as a whole should survive Some cultivars more susceptible than others, but since this is a new disease in North America this information is currently being collected Provide good air circulation and planting distances and minimize overhead watering Avoid excessive nitrogen and inadequate potassium nutrition Unlikely to persist where all foliage dies back in winter (or roughly Zone 6 and colder) although may be able to do so where there are plants of the

alternate host, patrinia

Appropriate fungicides may be used


Spring Sickness– The name given to a disorder of daylilies which appears soon after growth

commences following winter. Foliage is twisted, bending, stunted and discolored on some fans in early spring Affected fans may, or may not, recover and bloom normally that season Exact cause is unknown Probably not a disease Not caused by cold damage following shoot emergence May involve a combination of contributing factors possibly including, but not necessarily limited to, bulb mites and the leaf streak

fungus.


Leaf Streak– A fungal disease which affects the leaves of daylilies.

Caused by a fungus (Aureobasidum microstictum) Brown spots, yellow streaking, and die-back of foliage but not death of plant May require injury such as pest or frost damage in order to infect Appropriate fungicides may help


Crown and Root Rot Plant yellows and may collapse, leaves may pull out easily, affected tissue is often mushy and plant may die. Signs of a fungus may be visible, e.g. "shoestrings" for Armillaria rot, and "mustard seeds" for southern blight (Sclerotium

rolfsii), otherwise exact diagnosis requires submission to a diagnostic laboratory Foul smell may, or may not, be present May involve a combination of factors such as nematodes, bulb mite or other pest damage, fungal and/or bacterial pathogens (disease causing agents), weather conditions, gardening practices, soil aeration and moisture conditions Some cultivars may be more susceptible than others Of particular concern in warmer climates but may also occur elsewhere Ensure adequate soil aeration and drainage Avoid or correct areas of poor air circulation Avoid too much or too little water and don't over-estimate water needs in periods of high humidity (check soil moisture before watering) Avoid over-fertilizing-Avoid over-amending with high water-retentive organic materials Remember that high temperatures increase transplanting stress and try to avoid if possible Don't plant too deep Let wounds from dividing air-dry in the shade before re-planting Remember that plants in pots are subject to more extreme root/crown temperatures (and therefore stress) than those in the ground Treatment differs according to causative agent/s so get laboratory diagnosis of persistent rot problem For more information on diseases see http://www.daylilies.org/ahs_dictionary/diseases.html

The DON’Ts in a daylily garden

Pick spent or dead blooms Pick live bloom Walk thru the beds to see the bloom better or

get the name of the daylily Let children run thru the garden Let your purse hit the daylily

What other sources of daylily information are available?

American Hemerocallis Society www.daylilies.org

What other sources of daylily information are available?

American Hemerocallis Society www.daylilies.org www.mydaylilies.com Charlotte’s Daylily Diary www.daylilydiary.com View daylilies in garden settings Visit your public library Surf the internet Join a local club Check Popularity Polls for what grows well in your

area

QUESTIONS?

Documents

DAYLILIES 101 Everything you wanted to know about Daylilies, But were afraid to ask!