Data Management Report€¦ · Web viewThe data storage plan may be adapted during testing. ... NETCDF file description for offshore rig data (ABS) 56 Appendix P2 – NETCDF file

Data Storage Report

Barrier Dynamics Experiment IIBARDEX II

Delta Flume, Deltares

Authors: Gerd Masselink, Daniel Conley and Andrea RujuSchool of Marine Science and Engineering

Plymouth UniversityEngland

Data Storage Report BARDEX II

Status form

Document information

Project acronym BARDEX IIProvider DeltaresFacility Delta FlumeTitle Barrier Dynamics Experiment II1st user group contact (name/email) Gerd Masselink, [email protected] user group contact (name/email) Daniel Conley, [email protected] provider contact (name/email) Guido Wolters, [email protected] provider contact (name/email) Mark Klein Breteler, [email protected] Start date experiment (dd-mm-yyyy) 11-04-2012End date experiment (dd-mm-yyyy) 06-07-2012

Document history

Date Status Author Reviewer Approver(06-02-2012) Draft Gerd Masselink Guido Wolters Jens Kirkegaard

Document objectiveThis document describes the experimental program and how tests should be performed. The data storage plan may be adapted during testing. When all data has been obtained, the data storage plan should be updated to the data storage report. In the data storage report, the data are described so that others may use them.

AcknowledgementThe work described in this publication was supported by the European Community’s Seventh Framework Programme through the grant to the budget of the Integrating Activity HYDRALAB IV, Contract no. 261520.

DisclaimerThis document reflects only the authors’ views and not those of the European Community. This work may rely on data from sources external to the HYDRALAB IV project Consortium. Members of the Consortium do not accept liability for loss or damage suffered by any third party as a result of errors or inaccuracies in such data. The information in this document is provided “as is” and no guarantee or warranty is given that the information is fit for any particular purpose. The user thereof uses the information at its sole risk and neither the European Community nor any member of the HYDRALAB IV Consortium is liable for any use that may be made of the information.

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Table of contentsStatus form iiTable of contents iii1. Objectives 12.Experimental set-up 1 2.1 General description 1 2.2 Definition of coordinate system 3 2.3 Relevant fixed parameters 3 2.4 Pumps 33. Instrumentation and data acquisition 3 3.1 Instruments 3 3.2 Definition of time origin and instrument synchronization 4 3.3 Measured parameters 44. Experimental procedure and test programme 4 4.1 Test programme time table 4 4.2 Test programme 4 4.3 Maintenance of instrument elevations 5 4.4 Wave steering 7 4.5 Tidal signal 7 4.6 Experienced wave and water-level conditions 75. Data processing and organization of the data files 86. Publications, and reports from the project 8Appendices 9 Appendix A – CAD drawing of flume design 9 Appendix B – Sediment size distribution 10 Appendix C – Sediment permeability and hydraulic conductivity 11 Appendix D – Instrument positions 12 Appendix E – Instrument positions plotted on barrier profile 15 Appendix F – Photo record 16 Appendix G – Detailed test programme 25 Appendix H – End-of-day waves 27 Appendix I – Tidal signal 28 Appendix J – Measured wave and water-level conditions 29 Appendix K – NETCDF file description for bed profiler data 35 Appendix L – NETCDF file description for Deltares hydrodynamic data 40 Appendix M – NETCDF file description for bed-level sensor data 44 Appendix N1 – NETCDF file description for swash and overwash data (PTs) 45 Appendix N2 – NETCDF file description for swash and overwash data (swash) 47 Appendix N3 – NETCDF file description for swash and overwash data (Vectrino I) 49 Appendix N4 – NETCDF file description for swash and overwash data (Vectrino II) 51 Appendix O – NETCDF file description for surf zone data 53 Appendix P1 – NETCDF file description for offshore rig data (ABS) 56 Appendix P2 – NETCDF file description for offshore rig data (Vectrino) 57 Appendix P3 – NETCDF file description for offshore rig data (SRP) 58 Appendix Q – Overview of total station surveys 59 Appendix R – BARDEX II papers presented at IC2013 60

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1 ObjectivesThe overall aim of the Barrier Dynamics II project (BARDEX II) is to collect a proto-type data set on a sandy beach to improve our quantitative understanding and modelling capability of shallow water sediment transport processes in the inner surf, swash and overwash zone. Six key objectives are identified, each of them linked to a specific Work Package (WP): WP1 – barrier hydrology: to observe, quantify and model the dynamic groundwater

conditions within the barrier, subject to varying wave, water-level and back-barrier lagoon conditions (Lead: Ian Turner, University of New South Wales).

WP2 – swash and berm dynamics: to examine the relative roles of advected bore-generated turbulence versus local boundary layer processes in the full column sediment transport processes in the swash zone; to resolve the role of barrier hydrology in controlling equilibrium morphological response at the beach face (Lead: Daniel Conley, Plymouth University).

WP3 – swash-surf zone exchange and bar dynamics: to determine and quantify the dominant hydrodynamic and sediment transport mechanisms responsible for swash-surf zone sediment exchange; to identify key processes responsible for onshore and offshore bar migration (Lead: Gerben Ruessink, University of Utrecht).

WP4 – barrier overwash: to quantify overwash threshold for different wave and water-level conditions; to investigate the effect of groundwater gradients on overwash processes; to compare overwash processes on sand and gravel barriers (Lead: Ana Matias, University of Algarve).

WP5 – Sediment resuspension and bed morphology: to observe and measure vortex resuspension processes and bedform dynamics under shoaling and breaking waves; to quantify changes in the magnitude and direction of sediment transport (bedload and suspended load) in the region just outside the surf zone (Lead: Charlie Thompson, University of Southampton).

WP6 – numerical modeling: to further develop and rigorously test advanced process-based cross-shore hydro-morphodynamic models that address bar and barrier dynamics, and barrier destruction through overwash (Lead: Bruno Castelle, University of Bordeaux).

2 Experimental setup

2.1 General descriptionA 4.5-m high and 75-m wide sandy barrier was constructed in the Delta Flume with a lagoon situated to the landward. Landward of the lagoon (spanning the remainder of the flume length) a water buffer was located. This was used to regulate the water level in the lagoon. The sand barrier was separated from the lagoon by a permeable wall constructed out of a very coarse metal mesh covered with a double layer of geotextile (Geolon PE180) to prevent the ingress of sand into the lagoon, whilst not restricting the water flow through the wall (fabric pore size D90 = 0.180 mm). The sandy barrier was subjected to a range of wave conditions and varying sea/lagoon water levels, and the morphological response was recorded. A drawing of the experimental set-up is provided in Figure 1 and the location of the key profile points (‘knik punten’) is given in Table 1 (see also Appendix A for CAD drawing of flume set-up).

Table 1 – Positions of key profile points for the BARDEX II experiment.

x (m) z (m) Nick point0 paddle24 0 Bottom Concrete toe 129 0.5 Top concrete toe 229 0.5 Start flat section49 0.5 End flat section 349 0.5 Start 1:15 slope109 4.5 End 1:15 slope 4109 4.5 Start flat section114 4.5 End flat section 5

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114 4.5 Start 1:5 back slope124 2.5 End 1:5 back slope 6124 4.5 Top wall125 0 Base wall 7135 Gate

Figure 1 – Barrier profile and experimental set-up. The upper panel represents test series A, B and C; the lower panel represents overwash test series D and E (some instrumentation was moved between test series C and D. Thick black line above beach = scaffold rig with bed-level sensors; thin black line above beach = scaffold rig without bed-level sensors; grey patches = water-level variation.

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2.2 Definition of the coordinate systemThe origin of the coordinate system is the rest position of the wave paddle at the back of the flume (x = 0 m), the centreline of the flume (y = 0 m) and the flume floor (z = 0 m). Positive x is from the paddle to the front of the flume, positive y is towards the left of the positive x-axis (away from the control room or ‘meet cabine’) and positive z is upward from the flume floor.

2.3 Relevant fixed parametersThere are no fixed parameters: beach morphology, sea level, lagoon level and wave conditions will all be modified during testing. However, the most common parameter set will be a wave forcing characterised by a Jonswap spectrum with Hs = 0.8 m and a sea level of h = 3 m. The only parameter that will not change is the sediment size (D90 = 0.3 mm; D50 = 0.5 mm; D10 = 0.9 mm; see Appendix B for sediment size distribution). The porosity P and the hydraulic conductivity K of the sediment is estimated as 37–42% and 0.0005–0.001 mm s -1, respectively (see Appendix C for sediment permeability n and hydraulic conductivity K).

2.4 PumpsAn essential aspect of BARDEX II is the ability to adjust and maintain water levels in the sea and the lagoon. For this purpose, two pump systems, each with maximum capacity of 50 l s-1, were installed, see also Appendix A: (1) lagoon-sea and sea-lagoon, controlled by two computers and gauged; and (2) lagoon-reservoir and reservoir-lagoon which are controlled manually. In addition, there are also the intake for the sea (pump) and outlet from the sea (gravity).

3 Instrumentation and data acquisition

3.1 InstrumentsA suite of instruments and sampling devices will be deployed during the experiment. The full instrumentation list and their locations are provided in Appendix D; a graphical representation of the deployment of the different sets of instruments is provided in Appendix E; and a photo record of their deployment is presented in Appendix F.

The instrumentation provided by the Delta Flume (DELT) include a large number of buried and unburied pressure transducers (PTs) for recording water levels and barrier hydrology, wall-mounted electromagnetic current meters (EMCMs), optical backscatter sensors (OBSs), 3 ARGUS-style video cameras to monitor overwash, swash and breaking waves, discharge recorders for the pumps and a high-resolution mechanical bed profiler mounted off the carriage. Data from the PTs and EMCMs were collected at 20 Hz by the central Delta Flume computer. Beach profiles along the centreline of the flume (y = 0 m) were recorded nominally every 30 minutes (more frequent at the start of the simulations).

A large amount of additional instruments contributed by the Project Partners was deployed for specific test series: Barrier (UNSW) – Electric conductivity probes (ECPs) and thermistors were deployed in

the sand to measure through-barrier movement of an environmentally inert groundwater tracer and heat, respectively. Additional pairs of high-precision PTs were buried in the beach to resolve instantaneous groundwater flux at the beach face.

Swash zone (UoP/UDel) – Equipment for recording swash flows, suspended sediment fluxes and bed-level changes were deployed from a large scaffold rig, similar to that deployed during BARDEX. Instrumentation included EMCMs, acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs) for point measurements, acoustic Doppler velocity profilers referred to as Vectrinos (VECs), PTs, OBSs, acoustic bed-level sensors (BLSs) and a laser scanner (LiDAR). A thermal camera was mounted on one of the trolleys placed above the barrier crest to thermally record swash motion.

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Surf zone (UU) – Equipment for measuring nearshore mean flows, wave velocities, turbulence, and ensuing suspended sediment fluxes were deployed from rigs fixed to the flume wall. Instrumentation included ADVs, PTs and optical backscatter sensors (OBSs). A 3D sector scanning sonar (SONAR) was deployed to record the bed morphology.

Shoaling wave zone (UoS) – Equipment for measuring hydrodynamics, sediment resuspension and bedforms in the near-bed region extending offshore from the surf zone was deployed from a scaffold rig. Instrumentation included ADVs, acoustic backscatter sensor ABS for suspended sediment concentration profile, PTs, 2D sand ripple profiler (SRPs) and SONAR.

3.2 Definition of time origin and instrument synchronizationAll data were recorded in GMT + 2hr (local time). The data collected by the Project Partners were recorded on a bank of laptop computers all time-synched using GPS clock and a local network (one of the laptops operated as a time server). For almost all of the time (except on 14 and 15 June), the time server worked and the data collected by the partners is therefore on the same time. The time synching with the Delta Flume did not work, however, so these instruments are on their own time. It may be possible to time-synch both data sets on an ad hoc basis using colocated instrumentation (e.g., some BLS were located at very similar x-coordinates to the Delta Flume PTs). The video data was time-synched with the other data collected by the Deltares computer using a strobe light that was triggered at the start of the image collection. The light shows up in the strip means and is also recorded as a voltage on one of the channels on the Deltares computer (see appropriate NETCDF documentation).

3.3 Measured parametersDelta Flume staff recorded time series of pressure, water level, current velocity, suspended sediment concentration and pump discharge on their central computer. They also collected the video data on a separate computer and carried out regular beach profiling. Data collected using the instruments provided by the Project Partners will be recorded by the Project Partners.

4 Experimental procedure and test programme

4.1 Test programme time tableThe experimental program was completed in 3 stages and took a total of 59 days: Stage 1 (37 days) involved installation of a gate to form the reservoir, construction of

pump system, placement of sandy bed and barrier, construction of the retaining wall at the back of the barrier, and installation of Delta Flume equipment. This phase took place from 11 April to 6 June 2012.

Stage 2 (22 days) represents the actual experimental program and involved 5 distinct test series (see Section 4.2) sequenced such that they represented an increased level of complexity. Measurements took place from 7 June to 6 July 2012.

Stage 3 (after 6 June) involved decommissioning the experiment, including removal of the instruments, pumps and sand. This phase took place between 9 July and end of August 2012.

4.2 Test programmeThe test programme comprises 19 distinct tests with different wave and water level conditions making up 5 test series. A summary of the test series is provided below, but a more detailed description can be found in Table 2 and Appendix G.

Test series A was designed to investigate beach response to varying wave conditions and different lagoon levels (high or low). It was the intention to start with accretionary wave conditions (Hs = 0.8 m; Tp = 8 s) and berm construction, followed by erosive wave conditions (Hs = 1 m; Tp = 4 s) and bar formation. However, the ‘accretionary’ wave condition resulted in beach erosion and nearshore bar construction; therefore, the second wave condition was modified (Hs = 0.6 m; Tp = 12 s) to make sure a berm was constructed during the second half of test series A.

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Test series B was aimed at investigating the dynamics of a nearshore bar that is in too shallow water depth. The erosive wave condition was used.

Test series C simulated the effect of a 12-hr tidal cycle (tide range = 1.5 m) and erosive wave conditions on beach development. During the rising tide, the lagoon level was low; during the falling tide, the lagoon level was high.

Test Series D was designed to investigate the transitions in the sequence swash – overtopping – overwash for different wave conditions and sea level. For a given wave period, the sea level was raised in 0.15-m intervals until overwash occurred.

Test Series E repeated the overwash condition with accretionary wave conditions until the barrier was lowered so much that unidirectional flow occurred across the barrier crest into the lagoon.

4.3 Maintenance of instrument elevationsPositional control of the instrumentation is critical (see Appendix D), especially when measurements are aimed at collecting near-bed data. In the NETCDF data files (see Section 6), the x, y and z coordinates of all instruments are included in the meta data.

The instruments that remained fixed in position throughout the experiment include all Deltares instrumentation (pressure transducers in the wells and wall-mounted EMCMs, PTs and OBSs), the self-logging PTs and the instruments on the offshore rig (Vectrinos, ABS, SRPs and SONAR). The bed-level sensors also remained in position, but it should be noted that between Test series C and D, the lower 15 BLSs were moved from the seaward side of the scaffold rig to the lagoon side. Repeat total station surveys were carried out to ensure that the scaffold rig did not settle over the course of the experiment.

The surf zone rigs were fixed to the flume wall and their x and y coordinates remained constant; however, in between wave action, the rigs were winched up and lowered to make sure that the elevation of the instruments (ADV, EMCM, PTs and OBS) above the bed was the same at the start of each wave run. This means that the z coordinate was not constant.

The swash and overwash instrumentation (Vectrinos, ADV and EMCM and OBS, buried PTs) was deployed to record near-bed hydro- and sediment-dynamics and within-bed pressure gradients, and required frequent manual adjustments (mainly in the vertical, but also in the horizontal). These adjustments were carefully noted and are included in the NETCDF files as metadata. Note that in considering these data, the elevation above the bed is more important than the actual z coordinate.

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Figure 2 – Photo of the swash rig illustrating how close the instruments were mounted near the bed. This was necessary to be able to capture the shallow swash flows, and necessitated frequent vertical adjustments of the instruments.

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Table 2 - Overview of the experimental programme during BARDEX II. Hs = significant wave height; Tp = peak wave period; hs = sea level; hl = lagoon level. The time in minutes mentioned in the ‘notes’ column refers to the cumulative run time during specific tests and indicates the times that the beach morphology was profiled and instruments were serviced.

Test Date Hs (m) Tp (s) hs (m) hl (m) Notes

Test series A: Beach response to varying wave conditions and different lagoon levels; no tide A1 07/06/12, 08/06/12 0.8 8 3 3 - 3.4 Two-day run: 7 June (10, 20, 30, 45, 60, 90, 120 min) and 8 June (150, 180, 210, 240, 270, 300 min; mono/bi) A2 11/06/12, 12/06/12 0.8 8 3 4.3 Two-day run: 11 June (30, 60, 90, 120 min) and 12 June (180 min; mono/bi) A3 12/06/12 0.8 8 3 4.3 Continuous wave action over 180 min without interruptions for profiling or instrument adjustment A5 13/06/12 0.3 - 0.8 8 - 12 3 1.75 Bed camera was deployed and different mono- and bi-chromatic wave conditions were used A4 14/06/12 0.8 8 3 1.75 This run was completed in a single day (30, 60, 90, 120, 180 min; mono/bi) A6 15/06/12, 18/06/12 0.6 12 3 3 Two-day run: 15 June (10, 20, 30, 45, 60, 75, 105, 135 min) and 18 June (165, 195, 225, 315 min; mono/bi) A7 19/06/12 0.6 12 3 4.25 This run was completed in a single day (30, 60, 90, 120, 180 min; mono/bi). Issue with 3D morphology A8 20/06/12 0.6 12 3 1.75 This run was completed in a single day (30, 60, 90, 120, 180 min; bi)Test series B: Bar dynamics due to different sea levels; no tide B1 21/06/12 0.8 8 3 1.75 This run was completed in a single day (15, 45, 75, 105, 165 min; no mono/bi) B2 22/06/12 0.8 8 2.5 1.75 This run was completed in a single day (15, 45, 75, 105, 165, 255 min; no mono/bi)Test series C: Beach response to varying wave conditions with tide (30-min data segments) C1 25/06/12 0.8, 0.6 8 2.25 → 3.65 1.75 Sea level increasing from 2.25 to 3.38 m with default wave condition (30, 60, 90, 120, 150, 180, 210, 240, 270

min); then 3.38 to 3.65 m with reduced wave height (300, 330 min) C2 26/06/12 0.8, 0.6 8 3.53 → 2.25 4.25 Sea level decreasing from 3.53 to 3.37 m with reduced wave height (30 and 60 min); then, 3.20 to 2.25 m with

default wave conditions (90, 120, 150, 180, 210, 240, 270 min)Test series D: Identification of overtopping/overwash threshold; increase sea level until overwash occurs (20-min data segments) D1 28/06/12 0.8 4 3.15 → 4.2 1.75 Test finished in a single day, but overwashing delayed due to cliffing (20, 40, 60, 80, 100, 120, 140, 160 min) D2 28/06/12, 29/06/12 0.8 5 3.45 → 4.05 1.75 Only first water level segment on 28 June (20 min); rest on 29 June (40, 60, 80, 100 min) D3 29/06/12, 02/07/12 0.8 6 3.45 → 3.9 1.75 First three water level segments on 29 June (20, 40, 60 min); last segment on 2 July (80 min) D4 02/07/12 0.8 7 3.45 → 3.9 1.75 Test finished in a single day (20, 40, 60, 80 min) D5 02/07/12 0.8 8 3.45 → 3.75 1.75 Test finished in a single day (20, 40, 60 min) D6 03/07/12 0.8 9 3.30 → 3.75 1.75 Test finished in a single day (20, 40, 60, 80 min) D7 03/07/12 0.8 10 3.15 → 3.6 1.75 Test finished in a single day (20, 40, 60, 80 min)Test series E: Barrier overwash (13-min data segments) E1 04/07/12 0.8 8 3.9 1.75 Five data segments were carried out (13, 26, 40, 53, 66 min)

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4.4 Wave steeringFor irregular waves a JONSWAP spectrum was used (peak-enhancement factor γ = 3.3). The Automated Reflection Compensator (ARC) was deployed at all time to avoid generation of seiching. A number of different wave steering signals were used during BARDEX II. For test series A, a several hour long erosive (Hs = 0.8 m; Tp = 8 s) and accretionary (Hs =

0.6 m; Tp = 12 s) wave steering signal was made up for a water depth of 3 m. During the tests, this long wave steering signal was divided in periods of variable length to allow for beach profiling and instrument adjustment between the periods of wave forcing.

At the end of the tests in series A, the beach was subjected to 5 min of monochromatic wave action, followed by 15 min of bi-chromatic wave action. Details on the wave signals for these tests are provided in Appendix H.

During test series B, the erosive wave signal was used, but wave steering was adjusted for reduced water depth during B2.

During test series C the sea level was varied to simulate a tidal cycle (see Section 4.4). The 12-hr tidal signal was subdivided into 13 x 30-min segments with constant water depth during the segments. For each segment the same wave steering signal, characterised by Hs = 0.8 m and Tp = 8 s, was used, but adjusted for water depth. So, during each segment an identical sequence of waves occurred.

During test series D, water depth was increased in 0.15-m intervals until overwashing occurred and each individual interval had 20 min of wave action. The wave sequence was identical for each run, but the wave steering signal was adjusted for changing water depth and wave period.

During test series E, the barrier was subjected to overwash conditions with a constant water level and wave forcing. A single 13-min wave steering signal was used; the same one as used during test series D.

4.5 Tidal signalDuring test series C a tidal signal was superimposed on the wave signal. This tidal signal is a ‘proper’ sinusoid with an amplitude of 0.75 m and a period of 12 hrs, but the signal is ‘cut’ into 30-min segments, each with a constant water depth (Figure 3; see also Appendix I). Thus, the water level does not change during wave forcing and the ARC remained turned on. A separate wave steering signal was made up for each 30-min segment due to different water depths. It was observed that as high tide was approached, overtopping started to occur; therefore first the wave height was decreased, and the last two planned segments at and around high tide were not executed (See Appendix I). Some wave breaking off the paddle occurred during the lower water levels.

Figure 3 – Water-level variation during test series D.

4.6 Experienced wave and water-level conditions A comparison between the measured and planned wave and water-level conditions for all tests is provided in Appendix J. The measured wave conditions were based on the first 512 data points of every test (c. 8 min) of the PT sensor deployed at 36.2 m (KULV01). The pressure data were corrected for depth attenuation using linear theory and a frequency cut-off based on the peak frequency and the water depth. The cut-off frequency used in the

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conversion was the minimum frequency between 3 times the peak frequency and the frequency which leads to a wavelength equal to 2 times the mean water depth. The signal was not separated into the incoming and outgoing signal. Significant wave height was simply determined as four times the standard deviation of the time series. The mean sea level and the lagoon level were computed over the complete test using the mean of the PT sensor deployed at 36.2 m and 140 m, respectively.

5 Data processing and organization of the data filesWith the exclusion of some highly specialised (e.g., sheet flow probes of Delaware University) or ad hoc data (e.g., LIDAR of University of New South Wales), all BARDEX II data have been reconfigured in NETCDF format. These data include extensive metadata and, accompanied by this Data Storage Report, should be self-explanatory. Scripts are available to import the NETCDF data, including meta-data, into Matlab.To obtain the data one can contact Hydralab (www.hydralab.eu), the facility provider (Deltares: [email protected]) or one of the researchers of this project.

The NETCDF data are organised in the following units (see Appendix K–Q for description of the data):

Bed profiler data (Deltares) – Appendix K Deltares hydrodynamics data – Appendix L Bed-level sensor data (University of New South Wales) – Appendix M Swash and overwash data (Universities of Plymouth, Delaware and New Hampshire)

– Appendix N Surf zone data (University of Utrecht) – Appendix O Offshore rig data (University of Southampton) – Appendix P

There are also data of general use that are available, but not in NETCDF format: Total station survey data, including survey log book (University of Plymouth) –

Appendix Q Video data, including required documentation (i.e., GCP coordinates, lens calibration

factors, data acquisition information (Deltares)

6 Publications and reports from the projectThe experiment took place during May/July 2012 and the dissemination plan included four coordinated elements:

Information on BARDEX II is provide on the Hydralab IV website (http://www.hydralab.eu/).

During the International Coastal Symposium in April in 2013 organized by UoP in Plymouth, a special session was held aimed at reporting preliminary results of BARDEX II. All work package leaders presented at this conference and 6 short conference papers were published in a special Issue of the Journal of Coastal Research (see Appendix R for titles and abstracts).

The full data set in NETCDF format accompanied by this Data Storage Report will be made available 1 year after completion of the experiment (August 2013).

A special issue for Coastal Engineering, involving Dr. James Sutherland of HR Wallingford as guest editor is underway with 8 papers planned: an introductory paper outlining the overall objectives and approach of BARDEX II followed by 7 papers pertaining to each of the Work Packages. With a submission date of December 2013, final publication of the special issue is anticipated by the end of 2014.

In addition to these centralised dissemination initiatives, results from BARDEX II will also be published separately by the Project Partners at scientific conferences and in international peer-reviewed journals.

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http://www.hydralab.eu/

mailto:[email protected]


APPENDIX A – CAD drawing of flume design

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APPENDIX B – Sediment size distribution

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APPENDIX C – Sediment permeability and hydraulic conductivity

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APPENDIX D – Instrument positionsInstrument # purpose x

(m)y (m) z (m)

DF main

Data logged on central computer in main control room

KULS01 PT (Kulite HKM-134 sealed)

1 Groundwater well (sea)

75 2.5 1


2 Groundwater well 80.15 2.5 1


3 Groundwater well 84 2.5 1
























15 Groundwater well (land)

123 2.5 1

KULV01 PT (Kulite HKM-134 vented)

16 Wave reflection 36.2 2.5 1.0


17 Wave reflection 39.7 2.5 1.0


18 Wave reflection 45 2.5 1.0

KULV Extra PT 19 Wave reflection 42 2.5 0.75KULV04 PT (Kulite HKM-134

vented)20 Lagoon wl 128 2.5 1.0

KULV Extra PT 21 Lagoon wl 128 2.5 1.0KULV05 PT (Kulite HKM-134

vented)22 Buffer wl 140 2.5 1.0

KULV Extra PT 23 Buffer wl 140 2.5 1.0PTXV01 PT (PTX 1830 vented) 24 PT with EM01 42.15 2.3 0.75PTXV02 PT (PTX 1830 vented) 25 PT with EM02 67.5 2.5 1.83PTXV03 PT (PTX 1830 vented) 26 PT with EM05 72.5 2.5 2.16PTXV04 PT (PTX 1830 vented) 27 PT with EM08 77.5 2.5 2.50PTXV05 PT (PTX 1830 vented) 28 PT with EM11 89.35 2.5 3.27EM01 EMCM E40 29,30 Offshore hydro 42 2.1 0.75EM02 EMCM E40 (test A-C) 31,32 Outer surf hydro 67.5 1.91 1.83EM03 EMCM E40 (test A-C) 33,34 Outer surf hydro 67.5 1.91 2.03

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EM04 EMCM E40 (test A-C) 35,36 Outer surf hydro 67.5 1.91 2.23EM05 EMCM E40 37,38 Mid-surf hydro 72.5 1.91 2.16EM06 EMCM E40 39,40 Mid-surf hydro 72.5 1.91 2.36EM07 EMCM E40 41,42 Mid-surf hydro 72.5 1.91 2.56EM08 EMCM E40 43,44 Inner surf hydro 77.5 1.91 2.50EM09 EMCM E30 45,46 Inner surf hydro 77.5 1.91 2.70EM10 EMCM E30 47,48 Inner surf hydro 77.5 1.91 2.90EM11 EMCM E40 (test D-E) 31,32 Swash 89.2 1.91 3.27EM12 EMCM E40 (test D-E) 33,34 Swash 89.2 1.91 3.47EM13 EMCM E40 (test D-E) 35,36 Swash 89.2 1.91 3.67OBS01 OBS Seapoint With EM02 67.5 2.5 1.83OBS02 OBS Seapoint With EM05 72.5 2.5 2.16DF video

Argus camera data logged on dedicated video computer in main control room

VID01a C1 (tests A-C) Dry 113.31 0.04 11.07VID02a C2 (tests A-C) Swash and

breaking 113.04 0.26 11.28

VID03a C3 (tests A-C) Breaking and shoaling

113.23 0.04 11.49

VID01b C1 (tests D-E) Overwash 117.34 0.04 11.07VID02b C2 (tests D-E) Swash and

breaking 117.07 0.25 11.29

VID03b C3 (tests D-E) Breaking and shoaling

117.26 0.03 11.49

UNSW Data logged on laptop computers located in measurement cabin 1 (PTs logged in cabin 2)

UNSW1a PT Buried PT pair 83 2.5 0.5UNSW1b PT Buried PT pair 83 2.5 2.5UNSW2a PT Buried PT pair 85.2 2.5 0.5UNSW2b PT Buried PT pair 85.2 2.5 2.5UNSW3a PT Buried PT pair 89 2.5 0.5UNSW3b PT Buried PT pair 89 2.5 2.5UNSW4a PT Buried PT pair 91 2.5 0.5UNSW4b PT Buried PT pair 91 2.5 2.5UNSW5 PT Atmospheric PT 113 2.5 5BLSa 45xBLS (tests A-C) Bed level, swash 76-109 c. 0 Bed + c. 1BLSb 45xBLS (tests D-E) Bed level, swash 87-120 c. 0 Bed + c. 1LIDAR1 Lidar (Max) Swash, waves var var varLIDAR2 Lidar (Rudolph) Swash, waves var var varGWrig1 Groundwater rig

(lower)Hydrology 90 1 c. 2

GWrig2 Groundwater rig (upper)

Hydrology 99 1 c. 2

UoP/UD/UNH Tests A-C

Data logged on laptop computers located in measurement cabin 1 (PTs logged in cabin 2)

UoPPTa PT (PTX 1830) Offshore PT 75.5 -0.5 2.25UoPPTX 8xPT (PTX 1830) Buried PT array var var Near-bedUOP01a Rig 1 (tbc) (tests A-C) Swash hydro 88 -1.5 Near-bedUOP02a Rig 2 (tbc) (tests A-C) Main swash rig 89.5 -1.5 Near-bedUOP03a Rig 3 (tbc) (tests A-C) Swash hydro 91 -1.5 Near-bedUoP/UD/UNH Tests D-E

Data logged on laptop computers located in measurement cabin 1 (PTs logged in cabin 2)

UoPPTa PT (PTX 1830) Overwash dynamics

87 var Near-bed

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UoPPTb PT (PTX 1830) Overwash dynamics

94 var Near-bed

UoPPTc PT (PTX 1830) Overwash dynamics

96 var Near-bed

UoPPTd PT (PTX 1830) Overwash dynamics

100 var Near-bed

UoPPTe PT (PTX 1830) Overwash dynamics

104 var Near-bed

UoPPTf PT (PTX 1830) Overwash dynamics

108 var Near-bed

UoPPTg PT (PTX 1830) Overwash dynamics

112 var Near-bed

UoPPTh PT (PTX 1830) Overwash dynamics

116 var Near-bed

UoPPTi PT (PTX 1830) Overwash dynamics

120 var Near-bed

UOP01b VEC (tests D-E) Swash 100 c. -1.5

Near-bed

UOP02b 2xEMCM, 4xOBS (tests D-E)

Overtopping 104 c. -1.5

Near-bed

UOP03b 2xEMCM (tests D-E) Overwash 108 c. -1.5

Near-bed

UOP03b VEC (tests D-E) Overwash 112 c. -1.5

Near-bed

UDTHER Thermal camera Swash hydro var c. 0 c. 10UoS Data logged on laptop computers located in measurement cabin 2UoS01 PT, 2xADV, ABS,

2xSRP, sector scanner

Offshore hydro- and sediment-dynamics

c. 49 c. -1.5

Near-bed

UU Data logged on internal data loggerUU01 PT, EMCM, 3xOBS Outer surf hydro 60 0.5 Near-bedUU3SD 3D sector scanner Bed morphology 63 0.7UU02 PT, 3xADV, 7xOBS Main surf rig 65 0.5 Near-bedUU03 PT, EMCM, 3xOBS Mid-surf hydro 70 0.5 Near-bedUU04 PT, EMCM, 3xOBS Inner surf hydro 75 0.5 Near-bedOSSI10 PT Waves 49.1 -0.1 1.17 (top)OSSI01 PT Waves 54.8 -2.2 2.01 (top)OSSI03 PT Waves 62.5 -2.2 1.99 (top)OSSI04 PT Waves 67.4 -2.2 2.37 (top)OSSI05 PT Waves 72.7 -2.2 2.49 (top)OSSI06 PT Waves 77.5 -2.2 2.81 (top)OSSI07 PT Waves 79.9 -2.2 2.98 (top)OSSI08 PT Waves 81.8 -2.2 3.08 (top)OSSI09 PT Waves 83.9 -2.2 3.21 (top)

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APPENDIX E – Instrument positions plotted on barrier profile

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APPENDIX F – Photo recordPhotos provided by Delta Flume staff, Time Scott, Ian Turner, Peter Ganderton, Jack Puleo and Hachem Kassem.

Preparation of the experiment

Construction of the beach/barrier – At the back of the barrier a permeable retaining wall, constructed out of horizontal steel bars, an iron mesh and a double layer of geo-cloth, was constructed between the back-barrier and the lagoon. The wall is necessary to prevent the backbarrier from collapsing into the lagoon, but also to prevent the ingress of sand into the lagoon during overwash. The wall is permeable to allow overwash to flow into the lagoon and prevent ponding of the backbarrier area. Sand was placed into the flume using a digger and was then further shaped by hand. The sand was compacted using a compactor.

Finished barrier before experiment – An oblique view of the finished barrier looking towards the wave paddle. In the front of the view is the back of the retaining wall; then the landward-sloping backbarrier and the horizontal barrier crest; this is followed by the seaward-sloping section; and finally another horizontal section with a 0.5-m sand cover. To provide a smooth transition for the waves from the flume floor to the 0.5-m thick horizontal sand section, a 10-m wide seaward-sloping concrete toe was constructed.

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Deltares equipment

Bed profiler – The subaerial and subaquous beach profile was surveyed between periods of wave action using the mechanical bed profiler. A profiling wheel attached to a vertical riser follows the bed morphology as the profiler trolley traverses the flume. A single beach profile was surveyed each time through the center of the flume (y = 0 m), c. 0.25 m away from the array of bed-level sensors mounted on the scaffold rig (small grey squares in the photo represent the protective plastic covers for the bed level sensors), so the profile recorded with the profiler is practically directly comparable with that of the bed-level sensors.

Video cameras – Three digital video cameras (Argus) were deployed at the back of the barrier at c. 11 m height above the flume floor to provide information on wave breaking, bore propagation, swash processes and overwash dynamics. A large number of ground control points were permanently attached to the flume wall and onto the scaffold frame.

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Electromagnetic current meters and pressure transducers – At five locations in the flume electromagnetic current meters (EMCM) were collocated with pressure transducers (PT) (and at two locations optical backscatterance sensors). At the four landward-most locations, three EMCMs were installed in a vertical array to record surf zone currents, whereas at the seaward-most location only a single EMCM was installed to record flow velocities under shoaling waves. This seaward-most EMCM was located within a cross-shore array of 4 PTs that was designed to enable separation between incident and reflected waves.

Groundwater wells – A large number (15) of plastic tubes were installed in a cross-shore array on the flume wall. The bottom section of these tubes was screened, but the exposed part was closed. Absolute pressure transducers were deployed in the bottom of the tubes. The tube array was used for recording groundwater levels within the beach/barrier system.

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Pumps – Four pumps were installed to enable the movement of vast quantities of water between the different basins (maximum discharge c. 50 l s-1): buffer-to-lagoon, lagoon-to-buffer, sea-to-lagoon and lagoon-to-sea. The pumps could be operated manually or through a computer-guided automated system, and pump discharges were continuously recorded.

Measurement cabins

Data logging – Practically all data were logged in real-time, mostly on laptop computers. The Delta Flume data logging system operated on its own (internet) clock, while all other computers were network together and time-synched using a dedicated (GPS) time-server. Only the Utrecht University equipment was not logged on computers. Time synching between Delta Flume and partner computers is unlikely to have worked.

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Activities

Installation – Some shots of people installing equipment and making measurements.

Total station survey – A laser total station was regularly used to survey in instrumentation. The tops of the groundwater wells were surveys in a few times during the experiment, all bed-level sensors were surveyed in every few days, and the swash rig was surveyed in every time the instruments were lowered or raised in between wave action, which was several times per day. During tests the total station was deployed from the video trolley and reflective markers were used for re-sectioning, but at the start or end of a test the total station was installed on the beach.

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Backbarrier re-profiling – During the overwash runs, a channel rapidly developed in the backbarrier region. Because this channel cut back towards the barrier crest, threatening to breach the barrier, after every 15-min overwash run, the backbarrier was restored by hand and made as two-dimensional as possible.

Groundwater equipment

Beach ground water – Beach groundwater dynamics were measured by the University of New South. Two frames were installed into the beach, below the beach groundwater table, to record mass fluxes in the groundwater by measuring the heat fluxes and advection of a saline solution. In addition, 3 pairs of piezometers were installed (closed tubes with pressure sensor at the bottom).

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Swash instrumentation

Scaffold frame – Scaffold frame with the main swash instrumentation, including 45 acoustic bed-level sensors (BLS), 3 swash stations with acoustic and electromagnetic current meters (ADV and EMCM), pressure transducers (PT) and optical backscatterance sensors (OBS), and buried PTs and conductivity concentration probes (CCP). The main swash bar contains 4 EMCMs, 3 ADVs, 2 OBS, 3 buried PTs and several CCPs.

Additional swash instrumentation – During test series A5 a bed camera was deployed to investigate sheetflow processes and ‘smart pebbles’ were tested in a custom-designed cage. A thermal camera and 2 laser scanners were used during various tests and were deployed from various locations.

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Surf zone equipment

Surf zone equipment – Measurement of surf zone dynamics were carried out using a cross-shore array of 4 surf zone rigs instrumented with acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADV), electromagnetic current meters (EMCM), optical backscatter sensors (OBS) and pressure transducers (PT). The main surf zone rig contained a vertical array of ADVs for recording the vertical turbulence structure and also a sector scanner sonar (SONAR). On the opposite wall of the flume, a cross-shore array of 10 self-logging pressure transducers were deployed (OSSI) to investigate wave transformation processes.

Offshore rig

Offshore rig – The seaward-most measurement frame, run by Southampton University, was installed to record boundary layer processes and bed dynamics under shoaling waves. The frame comprised of 2 Vectrino II acoustic current meters (ADV), 2 sand ripple profilers (SRP), 1 sector scanning sonar (SSS) and 1 acoustioc backscatter system (ABS). The frame was installed landward of the cross-shore PT array with the single EMCM, but seaward of all the other instrumentation.

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Wave action

Wave breaking on rig – Typical waves breaking just seaward of the swash rigs, but on the surf zone rigs.

Overwash – Overwash sequence.

BARDEX II team

BARDEX II team – Left panel shows team present during installation and test series A, B and C; right panel shows team present during overwash test series D and E, and pulling out.

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APPENDIX G – Detailed test programmeTest Date Hs (m) Tp (s) hs (m) hl (m)A0 06/06

Wed0.8 8 3 3 Only 3 minutes of waves were run at the end

of the day, with only a few people present. No logging.

Test series A (10 days): Beach response to varying wave conditions and different lagoon levels; no tideA1 07/06

Thu and 08/06 Fri

0.8 8 3 (07/06) and 3.4 (08/06)

This run was split into two days: Thursday 7 June (10, 20, 30, 45, 60, 90 and 120 min) and Friday 8 June (150, 180, 210, 240, 270 and 300 min, mono, bi). The last hour of the test was not executed. Some issues with video during the first day of the test. Bi-chromatic test was cut short because too much ‘damage’ was occurring to the beach and instruments. Over the weekend the water was pumped into the lagoon/buffer in preparation for high lagoon run.

A2 11/06 Mon and 12/06 Tue

0.8 8 3 4.25 (11/06) and 4.3 (12/06)

This run was split into two days: Monday 11 June (30, 60, 90 and 120 min) and Tuesday morning 12 June (180 min, mono, bi). Issues with video during first segment

A3 12/06 Tue

0.8 8 3 4.3 This run was supposed to be the whole day, but was shortened to half a day: Tuesday afternoon 12 June. Only 3 hours of wave action (180 min). After this run the buffer and lagoon were lowered to 1.75 m, whilst keeping the sea at 3 m.

A5 13/06 Wed

varies varies

3 1.75 During this run, Jack Puleo and Ian Turner deployed their bed camera. Different mono- and bi-chromatic wave conditions were used. The sea level was at 3 m and the lagoon and buffer levels were kept at 1.75 m. Despite small number of waves, quite a large amount of profile change. It was noted that KULS15 was dry; this was rectified.

A4 14/06 Thu

0.8 8 3 1.75 This run was completed in a single day (30, 60, 90, 120 and 180 min, mono, bi). At end of day, the lagoon and buffer were raised to 3 m. EM01 was fixed (hasn’t worked until now).

A6 15/06 Fri and18/06 Mon

0.6 12 3 3 This run lasted two days: Friday 15 June (10, 20, 30, 45, 60, 75, 105 and 135 min) and Monday 18 June (165, 195, 225 and 315 min, mono, bi). At end of Monday, the lagoon and buffer were raised to 4.25 m and the sea was kept overnight at 3 m. Major issues with time server. All computers should be on the same time, but not the right time. Also, the new wave condition appeared too calm, and was adjusted after the first four segments.

A7 19/06 Tue

0.6 12 3 4.25 This run was completed in a single day (30, 60, 90, 120, 180 min, mono, bi). Some mono-chromatic waves were run between segment 3 and 4 to try and flatten the beach. Beachface very 3D with channel through the centre. Some trigger issues with video data. In the late afternoon, the buffer and lagoon were lowered to 1.75 m. This was achieved using combination of sump pump, sea gravity drainage and canal pump (as used on 12/13 June).

A8 20/06 Wed

0.6 12 3 1.75 This run was completed in a single day (30, 60, 90, 120 and 180 min, bi). In the late afternoon the buffer and lagoon was raised to

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3 m, and the sea level was raised to 3.5 m using canal pump and automatic setting.

Test series B (2 days): Bar dynamics due to different sea levels; no tideB1 21/06

Thu0.8 8 3 1.75 Run started late because GW rig had to be

excavated. Only 5 wave segments: 15, 45, 75, 105 and 165 min. No mono and bi.

B2 22/06 Fri

0.8 8 2.5 1.75 Six wave segments: 15, 45, 75, 105, 165 and 255 min. No mono and bi.

Test series C (3 days): Beach response to varying wave conditions with tide (30-min data segments)C1 25/06

Mon0.8 8 2.25–3.65 1.75 Sea level increasing from 2.25 m to 3.38 m

with default wave condition (30, 60, 90, 120, 150, 180, 210, 240 and 270 min); then 3.38-3.65 m with 0.6 gain reduction in wave height (300 and 330 min). Wave heights were reduced and sea level not raised beyond 3.65 to avoid serious overwash.

C2 26/06 Tue

0.8 8 3.53–2.25 4.25 Sea level decreasing from 3.53 m to 3.37 m with 0.6 gain reduction in wave height relative to the default wave conditions (30 and 60 min); then, 3.20 to 2.25 m with default wave conditions (90, 120, 150, 180, 210, 240 and 270 min).

Move some of the swash instrumentation to the crest of the barrier27/06 Wed

Swash rigs were moved from beachface to crest of barrier.

Test series D (4 days): Identification of overtopping/overwash threshold; increase sea level until overwash occurs (20-min data segments)D1 28/06

Thu0.8 4 3.15→4.2 1.75 Waves kept cutting into the beach, almost

forming a cliff, so overwash occurred late (20, 40, 60, 80, 100, 120, 140, 160 min). Test finished in a single day.

D2 28/06 Thu and29/06 Fri

0.8 5 3.45→4.05

1.75 Only first water level segment on Thursday (20 min); rest on Friday (40, 60, 80, 100 min). Note that first segment of D2 is in the data for D1.

D3 29/06 Fri and 02/07 Mon

0.8 6 3.45→3.9 1.75 First three water level segments on Friday (20, 40 and 60 min); last segment on Monday (80 min).

D4 02/07 Mon

0.8 7 3.45→3.9 1.75 Test finished in a single day (20, 40, 60, 80 min).

D5 02/07 Mon

0.8 8 3.45→3.75

1.75 Test finished in a single day (20, 40, 60 min).

D6 03/07 Tue

0.8 9 3.30→3.75

1.75 Test finished in a single day (20, 40, 60, 80 min).

D7 03/07 Tue

0.8 10 3.15→3.6 1.75 Test finished in a single day (20, 40, 60, 80 min).

Test series E (1 day): Barrier destruction; once overwash starts keep conditions the same until barrier crest is below sea level (13-min data segments)E1 04/07

Wed0.8 8 3.9 1.75 Five data segments were carried out. At the

end of the last segment, water started to flow from the back of the barrier to the front, compromising any further measurements (13, 26, 40, 53, 66 min).

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APPENDIX H – End-of-day wavesAt the end of each test, a series of monochromatic waves and a series of wave groups are run to facilitate ensemble-averaging and to include some ‘large’ backwashes. These special wave conditions were only carried out for test series A.

Wave type Wave Period (s)

Group period (s)

Frequency (Hz, s-1)

Radial frequency (Hz, s-1)

Hrms

Monochromatic 8 NA 0.125 0.785 0.56 mWave group 8, 7.273 80 0.125, 0.138 0.785, 0.864 0.56 m

The parameters in the wave group row, should generate a bichromatic wave with an 80 s group period. Delta radial frequency (Δσ) is 0.079 and Tgroup = 2π/ Δσ ≈ 80 s.

Approximately 5 minutes of monochromatic waves (40 waves) were used, followed by 10 wave groups (80 s duration each) for a total of ~14 minutes. There were some issues with the energy level of these special wave conditions and adjustments were made; please refer to Appendix J for the actual test conditions experienced.

Mono-chromatic waves

Bi-chromatic waves

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APPENDIX I – Tidal signal

Run # Time (min) Water level (m)C1_01 0-30 2.2500C1_02 30-60 2.2756C1_03 60-90 2.3505C1_04 90-120 2.4697C1_05 120-150 2.6250C1_06 150-180 2.8059C1_07 180-210 3.0000C1_08 210-240 3.1941C1_09 240-270 3.3750C1_10 270-300 3.5303C1_11 300-330 3.6495

330-360 3.7244360-390 3.7500390-420 3.7244420-450 3.6495

C2_01 450-480 3.5303C2_02 480-510 3.3750C2_03 510-540 3.1941C2_04 540-570 3.0000C2_05 570-600 2.8059C2_06 600-630 2.6250C2_07 630-660 2.4697C2_08 660-690 2.3505C2_09 690-720 2.2756

720-750 2.2500

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APPENDIX J – MEASURED WAVE AND WATER-LEVEL CONDITIONSThis table represents a comparison between measured and planned wave and water-level conditions for all tests. The measured wave conditions were based on the first 512 data points of every test (c. 8 min) of the PT sensor deployed at 36.2 m (KULV01). The pressure data were corrected for depth attenuation using linear theory and a frequency cut-off based on the peak frequency and the water depth, but the signal was not separated into the incoming and outgoing signal. Significant wave height was simply determined as four times the standard deviation of the time series. The mean sea level and the lagoon level were computed over the complete test using the mean of the PT sensor deployed at 36.2 m and 140 m, respectively.

Time of wave forcing Measured conditions Planned conditionsCase Date Start Stop Hs Tp hsea hlagoon Hs Tp hsea hlagoon

A1_01 07-06-12 11:10:28 11:19:52 0.89 8.13 3.00 3.03 0.8 8 3 3A1_02 07-06-12 11:51:49 12:01:22 0.89 8.00 2.97 3.00 0.8 8 3 3A1_03 07-06-12 12:24:08 12:33:27 0.89 8.00 3.01 3.02 0.8 8 3 3A1_04 07-06-12 12:54:46 13:09:09 0.83 8.13 3.03 3.02 0.8 8 3 3A1_05 07-06-12 13:35:23 13:49:20 0.88 7.64 2.98 3.00 0.8 8 3 3A1_06 07-06-12 14:15:39 14:44:11 0.88 7.88 3.01 3.01 0.8 8 3 3A1_07 07-06-12 15:10:59 15:38:54 0.91 8.00 3.02 3.01 0.8 8 3 3A1_08 07-06-12 16:00:32 16:29:14 0.86 8.00 3.02 3.02 0.8 8 3 3A1_09 08-06-12 09:31:22 09:59:42 0.88 8.13 2.98 3.38 0.8 8 3 3A1_10 08-06-12 10:27:48 10:56:07 0.88 7.53 3.02 3.34 0.8 8 3 3A1_11 08-06-12 11:21:04 11:49:31 0.89 8.00 3.01 3.35 0.8 8 3 3A1_12 08-06-12 12:13:34 12:41:55 0.88 7.88 3.02 3.33 0.8 8 3 3A1_13 08-06-12 12:58:46 13:26:41 0.88 7.88 3.02 3.33 0.8 8 3 3A1_bi 08-06-12 15:05:37 15:09:41 1.29* 8.00 3.00 3.36 0.8 8 3 3A1_mo 08-06-12 14:44:01 14:48:46 0.94* 8.00 3.00 3.36 0.8 8 3 3

A2_01 11-06-12 12:22:23 12:50:09 0.87 8.00 2.97 4.24 0.8 8 3 4.25A2_02 11-06-12 13:40:59 14:09:20 0.90 8.00 2.99 4.26 0.8 8 3 4.25A2_03 11-06-12 14:35:43 15:03:47 0.87 7.88 3.01 4.25 0.8 8 3 4.25

A2_04 11-06-12 15:35:22 16:03:42 0.88 7.88 3.02 4.24 0.8 8 3 4.25A2_05 12-06-12 09:15:08 10:11:35 0.84 8.39 3.00 4.30 0.8 8 3 4.25A2_bi 12-06-12 11:20:47 11:34:14 1.08* 7.31 2.99 4.30 0.8 8 3 4.25A2_mo 12-06-12 10:53:53 10:58:39 0.74* 8.00 3.00 4.30 0.8 8 3 4.25

A3_01 12-06-12 12:15:39 15:09:52 0.83 8.26 3.01 4.30 0.8 8 3 4.25

A4_01 14-06-12 10:14:10 10:41:09 0.87 8.00 2.98 1.75 0.8 8 3 1.75A4_02 14-06-12 11:20:03 11:48:23 0.88 8.00 2.97 1.74 0.8 8 3 1.75A4_03 14-06-12 12:13:20 12:41:29 0.86 7.88 3.01 1.73 0.8 8 3 1.75A4_04 14-06-12 13:07:18 13:35:22 0.87 7.88 3.00 1.73 0.8 8 3 1.75A4_05 14-06-12 14:07:53 15:05:29 0.84 8.39 3.00 1.73 0.8 8 3 1.75A4_bi 14-06-12 15:53:45 16:07:01 1.06* 7.31 2.99 1.73 0.8 8 3 1.75A4_mo 14-06-12 15:31:39 15:36:21 0.75* 8.00 3.00 1.72 0.8 8 3 1.75

A5_01 13-06-12 11:48:19 11:49:59 0.49* 10.67 2.98 1.74 0.3 10 3 1.75A5_02 13-06-12 12:18:15 12:20:07 0.50* 10.67 2.98 1.74 0.5 12 3 1.75A5_03 13-06-12 12:30:01 12:32:11 0.79* 11.64 2.96 1.74 0.5 12 3 1.75A5_04 13-06-12 12:48:26 12:49:11 0.72* 8.00 2.99 1.74 0.5 8 3 1.75A5_05 13-06-12 13:01:56 13:04:41 1.04* 8.00 2.98 1.74 0.5 8 3 1.75A5_06 13-06-12 13:37:46 13:38:43 0.61* 10.67 2.99 1.75 0.4 12 3 1.75A5_07 13-06-12 13:47:39 13:48:51 0.58* 12.80 3.00 1.75 0.4 12 3 1.75A5_08 13-06-12 15:39:43 15:41:00 0.58* 12.80 3.00 1.75 0.4 12 3 1.75

A6_01 15-06-12 09:08:37 09:18:20 0.59 10.04 2.97 3.02 0.6 12 3 3A6_02 15-06-12 10:14:35 10:23:49 0.65 9.66 3.02 3.02 0.6 12 3 3A6_03 15-06-12 10:46:38 10:56:11 0.61 10.67 3.02 3.02 0.6 12 3 3A6_04 15-06-12 11:21:41 11:35:54 0.58 10.45 3.01 3.02 0.6 12 3 3A6_05 15-06-12 11:57:11 12:11:12 0.69 14.22 3.00 3.03 0.6 12 3 3A6_06 15-06-12 12:32:34 12:46:20 0.74 12.49 2.99 3.03 0.6 12 3 3

A6_07 15-06-12 13:29:19 13:58:20 0.70 13.13 2.98 3.03 0.6 12 3 3A6_08 15-06-12 14:29:48 14:57:57 0.74 13.13 2.98 3.03 0.6 12 3 3A6_09 18-06-12 09:50:59 10:19:34 0.68 13.13 2.98 3.02 0.6 12 3 3A6_10 18-06-12 10:52:37 11:21:30 0.71 12.80 2.96 3.01 0.6 12 3 3A6_11 18-06-12 11:53:33 12:22:24 0.73 12.80 2.96 3.02 0.6 12 3 3A6_12 18-06-12 12:51:05 13:20:04 0.72 13.13 2.96 3.02 0.6 12 3 3A6_13 18-06-12 13:50:33 14:48:20 0.72 11.64 3.00 3.03 0.6 12 3 3A6_bi 18-06-12 15:49:46 16:09:04 0.95* 12.19 2.98 3.03 0.6 12 3 3A6_mo 18-06-12 15:21:32 15:29:11 0.80* 12.19 2.99 3.03 0.6 12 3 3

A7_01 19-06-12 09:38:44 10:07:30 0.75 12.80 2.98 4.26 0.6 12 3 4.25A7_02 19-06-12 10:39:58 11:08:38 0.73 13.13 2.98 4.26 0.6 12 3 4.25A7_03 19-06-12 11:43:39 12:12:29 0.73 12.80 2.98 4.26 0.6 12 3 4.25A7_re 19-06-12 12:35:44 12:43:28 0.69 12.19 2.98 4.26 0.6 12 3 4.25A7_04 19-06-12 13:16:11 13:45:13 0.71 12.80 2.99 4.25 0.6 12 3 4.25A7_05 19-06-12 14:16:58 15:13:58 0.72 12.80 2.99 4.25 0.6 12 3 4.25A7_bi 19-06-12 16:05:06 16:24:19 0.97* 12.19 2.99 4.25 0.6 12 3 4.25A7_mo 19-06-12 15:35:44 15:43:26 0.82* 12.19 2.99 4.25 0.6 12 3 4.25

A8_01 20-06-12 09:03:35 09:32:18 0.78 12.80 2.98 1.75 0.6 12 3 1.75A8_02 20-06-12 10:08:00 10:36:46 0.77 13.13 2.95 1.76 0.6 12 3 1.75A8_03 20-06-12 11:06:25 11:35:03 0.76 12.80 2.99 1.76 0.6 12 3 1.75A8_04 20-06-12 12:01:20 12:29:55 0.74 12.80 2.97 1.77 0.6 12 3 1.75A8_05 20-06-12 13:04:32 14:02:00 0.75 12.80 2.98 1.75 0.6 12 3 1.75A8_bi 20-06-12 14:37:40 14:55:18 0.96* 12.19 2.96 1.77 0.6 12 3 1.75

B1_01 21-06-12 10:39:55 10:53:02 0.82 9.14 2.99 1.75 0.8 8 3 1.75B1_02 21-06-12 11:51:17 12:20:13 0.87 8.53 3.00 1.75 0.8 8 3 1.75B1_03 21-06-12 12:45:28 13:13:58 0.90 8.83 2.99 1.76 0.8 8 3 1.75B1_04 21-06-12 13:42:01 14:10:50 0.87 8.68 2.98 1.76 0.8 8 3 1.75

B1_05 21-06-12 14:36:48 15:34:30 0.88 8.83 3.04 1.76 0.8 8 3 1.75

B2_01 22-06-12 08:50:34 09:05:07 0.87 7.64 2.49 1.76 0.8 8 2.5 1.75B2_02 22-06-12 09:35:31 10:04:12 0.86 7.88 2.48 1.76 0.8 8 2.5 1.75B2_03 22-06-12 10:33:40 11:02:05 0.87 7.88 2.48 1.76 0.8 8 2.5 1.75B2_04 22-06-12 11:26:35 11:54:59 0.85 7.53 2.48 1.76 0.8 8 2.5 1.75B2_05 22-06-12 12:17:08 13:15:36 0.86 7.76 2.51 1.77 0.8 8 2.5 1.75B2_06 22-06-12 13:39:41 15:06:59 0.86 7.53 2.52 1.77 0.8 8 2.5 1.75

C1_01 25-06-12 09:18:53 09:47:43 0.82 8.39 2.24 1.76 0.8 8 2.2500 1.75C1_02 25-06-12 10:16:23 10:45:38 0.81 8.39 2.25 1.77 0.8 8 2.2756 1.75C1_03 25-06-12 11:06:07 11:35:22 0.83 7.11 2.35 1.75 0.8 8 2.3505 1.75C1_04 25-06-12 11:57:03 12:26:00 0.84 7.11 2.46 1.75 0.8 8 2.4697 1.75C1_05 25-06-12 12:49:05 13:18:24 0.86 7.11 2.61 1.75 0.8 8 2.6250 1.75C1_06 25-06-12 13:43:57 14:12:51 0.88 8.39 2.80 1.74 0.8 8 2.8059 1.75C1_07 25-06-12 14:40:40 15:09:56 0.88 8.39 2.99 1.74 0.8 8 3.0000 1.75C1_08 25-06-12 15:36:08 16:05:16 0.89 8.39 3.18 1.73 0.8 8 3.1941 1.75C1_09 25-06-12 16:34:50 17:04:29 0.89 8.39 3.35 1.73 0.8 8 3.3750 1.75C1_10 25-06-12 18:01:03 18:30:36 0.57 8.39 3.54 1.73 0.6 8 3.5303 1.75C1_11 25-06-12 19:03:58 19:33:12 0.57 8.39 3.65 1.72 0.6 8 3.6495 1.75

C2_01 26-06-12 08:35:01 09:04:15 0.58 8.39 3.51 4.20 0.6 8 3.5303 4.25C2_02 26-06-12 09:33:29 10:02:50 0.58 8.39 3.36 4.26 0.6 8 3.3750 4.25C2_03 26-06-12 10:36:10 11:05:17 0.91 8.39 3.18 4.26 0.8 8 3.1941 4.25C2_04 26-06-12 11:37:19 12:06:40 0.90 7.11 2.98 4.26 0.8 8 3.0000 4.25C2_05 26-06-12 12:36:06 13:05:16 0.89 7.11 2.79 4.25 0.8 8 2.8059 4.25C2_06 26-06-12 13:37:26 14:06:33 0.87 7.11 2.60 4.27 0.8 8 2.6250 4.25C2_07 26-06-12 14:32:33 15:01:36 0.85 7.64 2.44 4.27 0.8 8 2.4697 4.25C2_08 26-06-12 15:23:51 15:53:22 0.82 8.39 2.32 4.28 0.8 8 2.3505 4.25C2_09 26-06-12 16:16:53 16:45:55 0.79 8.39 2.23 4.28 0.8 8 2.2756 4.25

D1_01 28-06-12 09:07:24 09:26:41 0.71 4.00 3.14 1.78 0.8 4 3.15 1.75D1_02 28-06-12 09:49:38 10:09:00 0.71 4.00 3.29 1.77 0.8 4 3.30 1.75D1_03 28-06-12 10:36:43 10:56:16 0.70 4.00 3.44 1.77 0.8 4 3.45 1.75D1_04 28-06-12 11:18:23 11:37:48 0.70 4.00 3.60 1.77 0.8 4 3.60 1.75D1_05 28-06-12 11:59:57 12:19:18 0.71 4.00 3.75 1.76 0.8 4 3.75 1.75D1_06 28-06-12 12:54:39 13:13:51 0.72 4.00 3.90 1.76 0.8 4 3.90 1.75D1_07 28-06-12 13:42:08 14:01:31 0.73 4.00 4.05 1.76 0.8 4 4.05 1.75D1_08 28-06-12 14:26:26 14:45:36 0.74 4.00 4.21 1.70 0.8 4 4.20 1.75

D2_01 28-06-12 16:22:39 16:42:09 0.77 4.53 3.45 1.77 0.8 5 3.45 1.75D2_02 29-06-12 09:02:16 09:21:26 0.77 4.53 3.58 1.77 0.8 5 3.60 1.75D2_03 29-06-12 09:46:21 10:05:45 0.79 4.53 3.74 1.77 0.8 5 3.75 1.75D2_04 29-06-12 10:30:35 10:50:04 0.79 4.53 3.89 1.76 0.8 5 3.90 1.75D2_05 29-06-12 11:16:50 11:36:12 0.80 4.53 4.03 1.76 0.8 5 4.05 1.75

D3_01 29-06-12 12:56:19 13:15:27 0.77 6.02 3.44 1.77 0.8 6 3.45 1.75D3_02 29-06-12 13:37:11 13:56:36 0.79 6.02 3.59 1.77 0.8 6 3.60 1.75D3_03 29-06-12 14:18:53 14:38:12 0.82 6.02 3.74 1.77 0.8 6 3.75 1.75D3_04 02-07-12 08:56:25 09:15:56 0.85 6.02 3.89 1.76 0.8 6 3.90 1.75

D4_01 02-07-12 10:12:26 10:31:39 0.81 6.65 3.42 1.83 0.8 7 3.45 1.75D4_02 02-07-12 10:56:16 11:15:43 0.80 6.65 3.58 1.79 0.8 7 3.60 1.75D4_03 02-07-12 11:39:27 11:58:46 0.80 7.11 3.73 1.78 0.8 7 3.75 1.75D4_04 02-07-12 12:26:56 12:46:30 0.81 7.11 3.86 1.78 0.8 7 3.90 1.75

D5_01 02-07-12 13:53:10 14:12:32 0.81 7.64 3.44 1.77 0.8 8 3.45 1.75D5_02 02-07-12 14:35:14 14:54:35 0.83 7.64 3.58 1.78 0.8 8 3.60 1.75D5_03 02-07-12 15:21:41 15:41:08 0.84 7.64 3.72 1.77 0.8 8 3.75 1.75

D6_01 03-07-12 08:57:18 09:16:32 0.83 9.48 3.29 1.78 0.8 9 3.30 1.75D6_02 03-07-12 09:42:41 10:01:56 0.84 9.48 3.44 1.77 0.8 9 3.45 1.75D6_03 03-07-12 10:28:30 10:47:40 0.83 9.48 3.58 1.77 0.8 9 3.60 1.75D6_04 03-07-12 11:15:34 11:35:13 0.86 9.48 3.72 1.81 0.8 9 3.75 1.75

D7_01 03-07-12 12:55:47 13:14:55 0.87 10.04 3.14 1.78 0.8 10 3.15 1.75D7_02 03-07-12 13:48:23 14:07:30 0.91 10.04 3.28 1.77 0.8 10 3.30 1.75D7_03 03-07-12 14:39:07 14:58:48 0.89 10.04 3.43 1.77 0.8 10 3.45 1.75D7_04 03-07-12 15:23:39 15:43:05 0.88 10.04 3.57 1.76 0.8 10 3.60 1.75

E1_01 04-07-12 10:36:44 10:48:55 0.86 7.11 3.88 1.70 0.8 8 3.90 1.75E1_02 04-07-12 11:29:39 11:42:21 0.88 7.11 3.90 1.71 0.8 8 3.90 1.75E1_03 04-07-12 12:11:29 12:23:38 0.89 7.64 3.89 1.73 0.8 8 3.90 1.75E1_04 04-07-12 13:25:10 13:37:30 0.91 7.64 3.90 1.73 0.8 8 3.90 1.75E1_05 04-07-12 14:04:06 14:16:18 0.90 7.64 3.90 1.70 0.8 8 3.90 1.75

Notes:1. Mono- and bi-chromatic wave conditions during A1 were too energetic and were adjusted for the remainder of the experiment.2. At the start of test series A6 it was felt that the wave conditions were too calm and the wave steering file was altered between A6_04 and A6_05.3. Wave forcing during the tidal test series C were reduced by 60% around high tide to suppress overwashing (C1_10, C1_11, C2_01, C2_02).4. Note that for the mono- and bi-chromatic wave tests, Hs marked with *, the wave heights may not be correct due to the method used.

APPENDIX K – NETCDF FILE DESCRIPTION FOR BED PROFILER DATA

The Netcdf file all_profiles.nc in folder Netcdf_files/profiles/data contains information about the beach profiles measured during the BARDEX II experiments. The name of the run is followed by a letter indicating whether the profile has been achieved before (‘V’) or after (‘N’) the run.

File structureVariables in the Netcdf file: profile, start, stop, name_run

The profiles are stored in the variable profile represented by a matrix with dimensions x and n. The following attributes have been assigned for variable profile:

o Units specifies the dimensional units of the variableso Spatial resolutiono Description specifies the zero position of the vertical coordinate

x is the x-axis coordinate and varies between 0 and 124 m. The spatial resolution of the measurements was 0.01 m, yielding a total of 12400 x positions. The measurement position ranges changed between test series A–C and D–E. In order to maintain the same x-axis for all surveys, NaNs have been added between 0 m and the seaward-most value, and between the shoreward-most value and 124 m. The following attributes have been assigned for variable x:

o Units specifies the dimensional units of the variableso Spatial resolutiono Description specifies the zero position of the horizontal coordinate

n is the run number ranging from 1 and 135. The first 133 columns correspond to the profiles related to a specified run as descripted in the file metadata_file_names.xls. Column 134 is the profile measured at end of experiments (including the shoreward-most part over the lagoon which was measured only accessible by the profiler at the end of the experiment). Column 135 is the planned profile before the experiments. As a result, the matrix profile has dimensions 12400 x 135.

The initial and final time of the profiler measurements are included in the file. The variables start and stop time has 135 values, but the last two are NaN, corresponding to the measurements carried out at the end of the experiment (134) and the theoretical profile (135). Note that for the runs previous to A6_03, a 40-min adjustment has been applied to bring the profile time is line with the times of wave forcing. It is suspected that the clock of the computer running the profiler was reset just before A6_03. The following attributes have been assigned for variables start and stop:

o Time units (days) The names of the measured profiles (name of the run + ‘N’ or ‘V’ letter) are

stored in the variable name_run.

Dimensions in the NETCDF file: x, n, str x is the x-axis coordinate varying ranging from 0 to 124 m n is the run number ranging from 1 to 135 str is the string length

Data handlingSeveral matlab routines have been created in order to generate and read the Netcdf files. They can be found in the folder Profiles/m_files. The matlab script profiles_to_netcdf.m reads raw data and generates the Netcdf files. It uses the functions fun_search_a_word.m and fun_search_a_word_2.m to find the start and stop time in the original files. The Netcdf files can be read with the script open_netcdf_profile.m.

Summary of data overviewA table with the names of the runs and the correspondent start and stop times is provided below and is generated by script open_netcdf_profile_create_table.m.

Case Date Start Stop

A11V1 07-Jun-12 08:15:46 08:24:04

A11N1 07-Jun-12 11:32:21 11:40:43

A12N1 07-Jun-12 12:07:28 12:15:49

A13N1 07-Jun-12 12:38:01 12:46:15

A14N1 07-Jun-12 13:14:14 13:22:37

A15N1 07-Jun-12 13:57:59 14:06:18

A16N1 07-Jun-12 14:51:40 14:59:54

A17N1 07-Jun-12 15:43:50 15:52:03

A18N1 07-Jun-12 16:36:35 16:44:47

A19N1 08-Jun-12 10:16:33 10:24:46

A110N1 08-Jun-12 11:02:04 11:10:18

A111N1 08-Jun-12 12:01:03 12:09:16

A112N1 08-Jun-12 12:49:06 12:57:20

A113N1 08-Jun-12 14:33:20 14:41:37

REGA1 08-Jun-12 14:53:51 15:02:09

GROA1 08-Jun-12 15:16:55 15:25:15

A21N1 11-Jun-12 13:04:25 13:12:42

A22N1 11-Jun-12 14:14:07 14:22:24

A23N1 11-Jun-12 15:09:57 15:18:14

A24N1 11-Jun-12 16:08:07 16:16:25

A25N1 12-Jun-12 10:26:30 10:34:47

REGA2 12-Jun-12 11:04:27 11:12:43

GROA2 12-Jun-12 11:39:38 11:47:53

A3N1 12-Jun-12 15:36:03 15:44:21

A57N1 13-Jun-12 14:05:04 14:13:24

A58N1 13-Jun-12 16:03:37 16:11:56

A41N1 14-Jun-12 10:55:44 11:03:59

A42N1 14-Jun-12 11:54:31 12:02:49

A43N1 14-Jun-12 12:47:16 12:55:34

A44N1 14-Jun-12 13:40:53 13:49:14

A45N1 14-Jun-12 15:10:40 15:18:58

REGA4 14-Jun-12 15:40:49 15:49:08

GROA4 14-Jun-12 16:12:28 16:20:45

A61N1 15-Jun-12 09:23:49 09:32:04

A62N1 15-Jun-12 10:29:48 10:38:04

A63N1 15-Jun-12 11:01:21 11:09:37

A64N1 15-Jun-12 11:43:09 11:51:26

A65N1 15-Jun-12 12:18:20 12:26:40

A66N1 15-Jun-12 12:54:06 13:02:25

A67N1 15-Jun-12 14:04:57 14:13:16

A68N1 15-Jun-12 15:02:52 15:11:11

A69N1 18-Jun-12 10:32:23 10:40:37

A610N1 18-Jun-12 11:27:14 11:35:29

A611N1 18-Jun-12 12:27:30 12:35:47

A612N1 18-Jun-12 13:27:36 13:35:54

A613N1 18-Jun-12 14:54:29 15:02:47

REGA6 18-Jun-12 15:35:06 15:43:24

GROA6 18-Jun-12 16:13:15 16:21:31

A71N1 19-Jun-12 10:15:00 10:23:18

A72N1 19-Jun-12 11:14:36 11:22:53

A73N1 19-Jun-12 12:18:25 12:26:42

RGA71 19-Jun-12 12:48:33 12:56:51

A74N1 19-Jun-12 13:51:30 13:59:49

A75N1 19-Jun-12 15:20:53 15:29:10

RGA72 19-Jun-12 15:49:12 15:57:31

GROA7 19-Jun-12 16:33:26 16:41:45

A81N1 20-Jun-12 09:46:34 09:54:50

A82N1 20-Jun-12 10:41:51 10:50:07

A83N1 20-Jun-12 11:39:20 11:47:40

A84N1 20-Jun-12 12:38:25 12:46:43

A85N1 20-Jun-12 14:09:27 14:17:45

GROA8n1 20-Jun-12 15:01:00 15:09:19

B11N1 21-Jun-12 11:36:04 11:44:24

B12N1 21-Jun-12 12:25:06 12:33:25

B13N1 21-Jun-12 13:18:24 13:26:44

B14N1 21-Jun-12 14:15:12 14:23:31

B15N1 21-Jun-12 15:39:39 15:47:55

B21N1 22-Jun-12 09:19:06 09:27:22

B22N1 22-Jun-12 10:10:47 10:19:04

B23N1 22-Jun-12 11:07:53 11:16:12

B24N1 22-Jun-12 12:01:28 12:09:46

B25N1 22-Jun-12 13:21:45 13:30:05

B26N1 22-Jun-12 15:13:59 15:22:20

C11N1 25-Jun-12 09:54:02 10:02:21

C12N1 25-Jun-12 10:50:17 10:58:34

C13N1 25-Jun-12 11:41:50 11:50:07

C14N1 25-Jun-12 12:31:21 12:39:38

C15N1 25-Jun-12 13:23:33 13:31:51

C16N1 25-Jun-12 14:18:03 14:26:22

C17N1 25-Jun-12 15:14:58 15:23:18

C18N1 25-Jun-12 16:10:26 16:18:47

C19N1 25-Jun-12 17:12:28 17:20:47

C110N1 25-Jun-12 18:37:08 18:45:26

C111N1 25-Jun-12 19:38:29 19:46:48

C21N1 26-Jun-12 09:09:50 09:18:07

C22N1 26-Jun-12 10:08:28 10:16:45

C23N1 26-Jun-12 11:10:51 11:19:09

C24N1 26-Jun-12 12:11:47 12:20:05

C25N1 26-Jun-12 13:11:39 13:19:58

C26N1 26-Jun-12 14:12:08 14:20:27

C27N1 26-Jun-12 15:08:06 15:16:26

C28N1 26-Jun-12 15:58:23 16:06:41

C29N1 26-Jun-12 16:50:27 16:58:47

D11V1 28-Jun-12 07:57:25 08:06:04

D11N1 28-Jun-12 09:31:29 09:40:15

D12N1 28-Jun-12 10:13:42 10:22:28

D13N1 28-Jun-12 11:01:38 11:10:24

D14N1 28-Jun-12 11:42:20 11:51:06

D15N1 28-Jun-12 12:25:42 12:34:26

D16N1 28-Jun-12 13:18:21 13:27:06

D17N1 28-Jun-12 14:09:21 14:18:08

D18N1 28-Jun-12 14:50:35 14:59:20

D21V1 28-Jun-12 16:05:41 16:14:25

D21N1 29-Jun-12 07:42:46 07:51:26

D22N1 29-Jun-12 09:25:49 09:34:31

D23N1 29-Jun-12 10:10:34 10:19:16

D24N1 29-Jun-12 10:54:56 11:03:39

D25N1 29-Jun-12 11:41:51 11:50:31

D31N1 29-Jun-12 13:20:10 13:28:57

D32N1 29-Jun-12 14:01:17 14:10:03

D33N1 29-Jun-12 14:47:55 14:56:41

D34N1 02-Jul-12 09:20:12 09:28:57

D41N1 02-Jul-12 10:37:19 10:46:02

D42N1 02-Jul-12 11:21:17 11:30:02

D43N1 02-Jul-12 12:03:25 12:12:09

D44N1 02-Jul-12 12:50:45 12:59:26

D51N1 02-Jul-12 14:17:43 14:26:27

D52N1 02-Jul-12 14:59:45 15:08:30

D53N1 02-Jul-12 15:50:21 15:59:03

D61N1 03-Jul-12 09:21:20 09:30:03

D62N1 03-Jul-12 10:06:35 10:15:15

D63N1 03-Jul-12 10:52:20 11:01:04

D64N1 03-Jul-12 11:40:21 11:49:04

D71N1 03-Jul-12 13:19:10 13:27:57

D72N1 03-Jul-12 14:13:32 14:22:17

D73N1 03-Jul-12 15:04:07 15:12:54

D74N1 03-Jul-12 15:50:50 15:59:35

E11V1 04-Jul-12 09:36:28 09:45:09

E11N1 04-Jul-12 10:57:17 11:06:03

E12N1 04-Jul-12 11:49:05 11:57:52

E13N1 04-Jul-12 12:28:41 12:37:26

E14N1 04-Jul-12 13:42:42 13:51:27

E15N1 04-Jul-12 14:22:03 14:30:48

APPENDIX L – NETCDF FILE DESCRIPTION FOR DELTARES HYDRODYNAMIC DATA

The folder Netcdf_files/DELTARES/day/data contains the files with the data measured by Deltares instruments. The number of the files matches the number of wave cases. The name of each file is DELTARES_data followed by the name of the case (for example DELTARES_data_A1_01.nc for case A1_01).

The time series in the original Deltares files have been split up into shorter time segments, each one including a determined case. No information has been lost in this procedure since a time segment begins when the preceding one finishes. The time indicates the elapsed time (in seconds) from the start time (day-month-year hour:minute:second), which is the time when the instruments start recording (typically in the morning). The cases run on the same day will have the same start time, but some runs ran over more than one day.

File structureAll variables in the file share the same dimension time. The following global attributes have been assigned:

Global: Start specifies the start time Stop specifies the stop time Acknowledgements includes the HYDRALAB IV grant number

The variables are:PT_pressure EM_u_velocityEM_v_velocityOBS_concentrationWM_displacementWM_forceWM_etaPump_flowPump_ratetriggerATM_pressure

Their structure is described in the following:

Variable: PressureThe pressure data are stored in a matrix called PT_pressure with dimensions t and PT_n. t is the time axis. PT_n is the number of pressure transducers provided by Deltares (28). The first 15 are Kulite HKM-134 sealed (KULS), 8 are Kulite HKM-134 vented (KULV) and 5 are PTX 1830 vented (PTXV).

As a result, the matrix pressure has dimensions: length(t) x 28.

The position of each pressure transducer is stored in the variables PT_x, PT_y and PT_z.

Pressure data are in . The water depth at the KULS and KULV positions was measured in the morning and the pressure transducers got zeroed so that the measured pressure at a specified PT was set equal to the corresponding depth multiplied by 10. For example: on 11/06/12 the measured water depth at KULS1 was 2.89 m, the pressure at KULS1 was adjusted to obtain 28.9 KN/m2. In order to obtain the pressure generated by the water column above the PT, the original pressure signal is corrected as follows:

where PT_pressure is the pressure, pd is the original pressure before correction, h is the measured water depth, PT_z is the vertical position of the PT and g is the gravitational acceleration.

The procedure explained above works for the KULS and KULV. For the PTXV, the procedure followed is different. First, it is assumed that the correct water depth h in the flume without waves (close to the first trigger signal of the day) can be determined averaging the KULV01, KULV02 and KULV03 (located between 36.2 and 45 m from the wave paddle), measurement over a time interval of 30 s. Then, the signal pressure for the PTX sensors in modified in order to be consistent with the depth in the flume already calculated.

where PT_pressure is the pressure, pd is the original pressure before correction, is the water depth measured by KULV01, KULV02 and KULV03 before the first run of the day, is the mean original pressure signal before the first run of the day, PT_z is the vertical position of the PT and g is the gravitational acceleration. The overbar denotes integrating over a time period of 30 seconds before the first run of the day. If the PT_z>h,

This corresponds to the relative pressure of a dry sensor.

Dimensions for the variable PT_pressure : PT_x, PT_y, PT_z = x,y,z positions with units (m)PT_name_sensor = name of the sensorPT_n = is the instrument numberPT_str = the string length

Variable: VelocityThe velocity data are stored in two matrices with dimensions t and EM_n. t is the time axis. EM_n is the number of velocimeters provided by Deltares (10). The matrix EM_u_velocity provides horizontal velocities, whereas the matrix EM_v_velocity gives vertical velocities. Velocity data are in m s-1.

Dimensions for the variables EM_u_velocity and EM_v_velocity : EM_x, EM_y, EM_z = x,y,z positions with units (m)EM_name_sensor = name of the sensorEM_n = is the instrument numberEM_str = the string length

Variable: concentration

The concentrations data are stored in a matrix called OBS_concentration with dimensions t and OBS_n. t is the time axis. OBS_n is the number of OBS sensors provided by Deltares (2). The OBS data are stored in the matrix OBS_concentration, but the data are uncalibrated and are in Volts.

Dimensions for the variable OBS_concentration : OBS_x, OBS_y, OBS_z = x,y,z positions with units (m)OBS_name_sensor = name of the sensorOBS_n = is the instrument numberOBS_str = the string length

Variable: wave makerThe wave maker data are stored in different variables:

Wave_maker_displacement is a matrix with dimension t and 2. The first vector is the target wave maker displacement; the second vector is the measured wave maker displacement (target + absorption). Displacement data have units (m).Wave_maker_force is the force required to move the paddle. Force data are in KN m2

Wave_maker_eta is the free surface displacement recorded on the paddle board. Elevation data have units (m).WM_name_sensor = name of the sensorWM_n = is the instrument numberWM_str = the string length

Variable: pumpThe pump data are stored in 2 different variables:

PUMP_flow is a matrix with dimension t and PUMP_n. PUMP_n is 5 representing the signals: sea-lagoon, lagoon-sea, lagoon-buffer, buffer-lagoon and analogue signal from UoP. The latter was never connected properly. Flow data are in m3 s-1.PUMP_rate is a matrix with dimension t and PUMP_m. PUMP_m is 2 representing: sea-lagoon steering and lagoon-sea steering. Rate data are in percentage, where 0% refers to pump is not pumping and 100% means the pump is pumping at full capacity.

Variable: triggerThe trigger data are stored in a single vector trigger with length t. These data are used for time-synching the video data: when the trigger is triggered, a high voltage is recorded and the a light is turned on that is visible in the video data.

Variable: atmospheric pressure (ATM pressure)The atmospheric pressure data are stored in a single vector ATM_pressure with length t. Atmospheric pressure data are in KN m-2.

Files in the folder This is the list of the files in the folder Netcdf_files/DELTARES_data/day/data:

DELTARES_data_A1_01.nc DELTARES_data_A1_02.nc DELTARES_data_A1_03.nc …

Data handling

Several matlab routines have been created in order to generate and read the Netcdf files. They can be found in the folder Netcdf_files/DELTARES_data/day/m_files. The matlab script Deltares_data_to_netcdf.m reads raw data and generates the Netcdf files. It uses the function fun_search_a_word_2.m to find the start and stop time in the original files. The measured depths are taken from the file Bardex-II_Dipping_Data_14_12-2012_modified.xlsx which is a modified version of the file Bardex-II_Dipping_Data_14_12-2012_.xlsx. The changes in the .xlsx file have been done in order to ease its reading. The ‘dipping_data’ files contain manually measured water levels in the piezotubes and were carried out by the UNSW team, and later by the Utrecht team. These data were used to ‘zero’ the pressure sensor data (see explanation under Variable: Pressure). The Netcdf files can be read with the script open_file_Deltares.m.

APPENDIX M – NETCDF FILE DESCRIPTION FOR BED-LEVEL SENSOR DATA

The folder Netcdf_files/BLS/data contains the files with the data measured by the University of South Wales bed level sensors (BLS). The number of the files matches the number of wave cases. The name of each file is BLS_data followed by the name of the case (for example BLS_data_A1_01.nc for case A1_01).

The time indicates the elapsed time (in seconds) from the start time (day-month-year hour:minute:second), which is the time when the instruments started recording. The actual start time is also included.

File structureThe variable z in the file represents the bed elevation relative to the flume floor. It has dimensions time t and spatial coordinate x relative to the wave paddle. The following global attributes have been assigned:

Global: Start specifies the start time Acknowledgements includes the HYDRALAB IV grant number

Files in the folder This is the list of the files present in the folder Netcdf_files/BLS/data:

BLS_data_A1_01.nc BLS_data_A1_02.nc BLS_data_A1_03.nc …

Data handlingSeveral matlab routines have been created in order to generate and read the Netcdf files. They can be found in the folder BLS/m_files. The matlab script BLS_to_netcdf.m reads raw data and generates the Netcdf files. The Netcdf files can be read with the script open_netcdf_bls.m.

APPENDIX N1 – NETCDF FILE DESCRIPTION FOR SWASH AND OVERWASH DATA (PTs)

The folder Swash/MA_PT/data contains the files with the data measured by the independent pressure transducers deployed by UoP in or near the swash zone (MA refers to Martin Austin). The number of the files matches the number of wave cases. The name of each file is PT_ followed by the name of the case (for example PT_A1_01.nc for case A1_01).

The time series in the original files have been chopped up into shorter time segments, which include the specific case but contain extra data in the beginning and at the end. No information has been lost in this procedure since a time segment begins when the preceding one finishes.

The time indicates the elapsed time (in seconds) from the start time (years/month/day hour:minute:second) which is the time when the instruments start recording (typically in the morning). The cases run on the same day are likely to have the same start time.

File structureDue to changes in the fashion in which these pressure sensors were deployed, there are two definitions for the variables in the files:

For the runs before the 27/06/2012PT_array1: total pressure measured by the seaward array composed by 3 PTs (bar)PT_array2: total pressure measured by the shoreward array composed by 3 or 4 PTs (bar)PT_baro: atmospheric pressure (bar) (obtained from a stand-alone barometric pressure sensor)x1,y1,z1: positions of the first array PTs (m)x2,y2,z1: positions of the second array PTs (m)

For the runs after the 27/06/2012 (overwash)PT_array: total pressure measured by the 6 PT array (bar)PT_baro: atmospheric pressure (bar)x,y,z: positions of the array PTs (m)

All variables share the same dimension time t. They represent the elapsed time in seconds since the start time on which the instrument started to record. The time vector t exhibits isolated jumps of 1 s due to the updates of the internal time clock of the data logger required to maintain consistency with the GPS-derived time server.The following global attributes have been assigned:

Global: Start specifies the start time for instruments Acknowledgements includes the HYDRALAB IV grant number

Files in the folder This is the list of the files present in the folder Netcdf_files/Swash/MA_PT/data:

PT_A1_01.nc

PT_A1_02.nc PT_A1_03.nc …

Data handlingSeveral matlab routines have been created in order to generate and read the Netcdf files. They can be found in the folder Netcdf_files/Swash/MA_PT/m_files. The matlab scripts PT_MA_to_netcdf.m and PT_MA_overwash_netcdf.m read raw data and generates the Netcdf files. The measured positions are taken from the file Swash_Sensor_Locations.xlsx which is a modified version of the files BARDEX_SWASH_SensorElevations_asof_01_07_2012.xlsx and overwash_rig_adjustments_SeriesD_E.xlsx. The changes in the .xlsx file have been done in order to ease its reading. The Netcdf files can be read with either the script open_PT_netcdf.m or the general function fun_open_netcdf.m. The latter requires the fully qualified name of the netcdf file as input.

APPENDIX N2 – NETCDF FILE DESCRIPTION FOR SWASH AND OVERWASH DATA (SWASH)

The folder Netcdf_files/Swash/Swash/data contains the files with the data measured by the electromagnetic current meters (EM), the optical backscatter sensors (OBS) and the pressure sensors (PT) deployed in or near the swash zone. The number of the files matches the number of wave cases. The name of each file is Swash_ followed by the name of the case (for example Swash_A1_01.nc for case A1_01).

The time series in the original files have been chopped up into shorter time segments which include the specific case. No information has been lost in this procedure since a time segment begins when the preceding one finishes.


File structureThe variables are divided into 2 groups:

UD (University of Delaware) group comprises 6 OBS and 2 EM sensors UoP (University of Plymouth) group comprises 3 PT and 2 EM sensors

All variables in the same group share the same time dimension. Two time vectors are generated: t_UD and t_UP. They represent the elapsed time in s since the start time on which the instrument started to record. Absolute time (Central European Summer Time) can be determined by adding this time to the appropriate start time. The following global attributes have been assigned:

Global: Start_UD specifies the start time for UD instruments Start_UP specifies the start time for UP instruments Definition confirms the definition of the vertical coordinate Acknowledgements includes the HYDRALAB IV grant number

The variables are:For University of Delaware instrumentszb_EM_UD = the elevation of the UD EM above the bed at the start of the specified experiment (m)za_EM_UD = the elevation of the UD EM above the bed at the end of the specified experiment (m)x_EM_UD = the horizontal cross-shore position of the UD EM (m)y_EM_UD = the horizontal long-shore position of the UD EM (m)EM_UD_x = the horizontal cross-shore velocity measured by the UD EM (m/s)EM_UD_y = the horizontal long-shore velocity measured by the UD EM (m/s)zb_OBS_UD = the elevation of the UD OBS above the bed at the start of the specified experiment (m)za_OBS_UD = the elevation of the UD OBS above the bed at the end of the specified experiment (m)x_OBS_UD = the horizontal cross-shore position of the UD OBS (m)y_OBS_UD = the horizontal long-shore position of the UD OBS (m)

OBS_UD = the concentration measured by the UD OBS (g/L)

For University of Plymouth instrumentszb_PT_UP = the elevation of the UP PT above the bed at the start of the specified experiment (m)za_PT_UP = the elevation of the UP PT above the bed at the end of the specified experiment (m)x_PT_UP = the horizontal cross-shore position of the UP PT (m)y_PT_UP = the horizontal long-shore position of the UP PT (m)PT_UP = the relative pressure measured by the UP PT (KN/m2)zb_EM_UP = the elevation of the UP EM above the bed at the start of the specified experiment (cm)za_EM_UP = the elevation of the UP EM above the bed at the end of the specified experiment (cm)x_EM_UP = the horizontal cross-shore position of the UP EM (m)y_EM_UP = the horizontal long-shore position of the UP EM (m)EM_UP_x = the horizontal cross-shore velocity measured by the UP EM (m/s)EM_UP_y = the horizontal cross-shore velocity measured by the UP EM (m/s)

Files in the folder This is the list of the files present in the folder Swash/Swash/data:

Swash_A1_01.nc Swash_A1_02.nc Swash_A1_03.nc …

Data handlingSeveral matlab routines have been created in order to generate and read the Netcdf files. They can be found in the folder Netcdf_files/Swash/Swash/m_files. The matlab script Swash_to_netcdf.m reads raw data and generates the Netcdf files. The measured elevations are taken from the file Swash_Sensor_Locations.xlsx which is a modified version of the files BARDEX_SWASH_SensorElevations_asof_01_07_2012.xlsx and overwash_rig_adjustments_SeriesD_E.xlsx. The changes in the .xlsx file have been done in order to ease its reading. The Netcdf files can be read with either the script open_Swash_netcdf.m or the general function fun_open_netcdf.m. The latter requires the fully qualified name of the netcdf file as input.

APPENDIX N3 – NETCDF FILE DESCRIPTION FOR SWASH AND OVERWASH DATA (VECTRINO I)

The folder Netcdf_files/Swash/vectrinoI contains the files with the data measured by the Vectrino I instruments in the swash zone. This folder is composed of 4 subfolders which contain the four different types of vectrino data, namely:

AmpBeam CorBeam SNRBeam Velocities

The folder structure is summarized in the following table:

Vectrino Iamp corsnrvel

The subfolders contain the file with the Vectrino I data. The number of the files in each subfolder matches the number of wave cases. The name of each file is the parameter name (e.g., amp_, cor_, snr_, vel_) is followed by the name of the case (for example A1_01.nc for case A1_01).

The time series in the original files have been chopped up into shorter time segments which include the specific case but contain extra data in the beginning and at the end. No information has been lost in this procedure since a time segment begins when the preceding one finishes.


File structureAll variables measured by Vectrino I share the same dimension time. However, the two Vectrino I instruments have different time series. For this reason, there are two variables time (t_1 and t_2) in which the suffix 1 or 2 indicates the associated instruments. The following global attributes have been assigned:

Global: Start_1 specifies the start time for the first Vectrino Start_2 specifies the start time for the second Vectrino Definition confirms the definition of the vertical coordinate Acknowledgements includes the HYDRALAB IV grant number

The variables for the 2 Vectrino I with the 4 directional components are:Amp (amp_x_1, amp_y_1, amp_z1_1, amp_z2_1, amp_x_2, amp_y_2, amp_z1_2, amp_z2_2)Cor (cor_x_1, cor_y_1, cor_z1_1, cor_z2_1, cor_x_2, cor_y_2, cor_z1_2, cor_z2_2)SNR (snr_x_1, snr_y_1, snr_z1_1, snr_z2_1, snr_x_2, snr_y_2, snr_z1_2, snr_z2_2)

Velocities (vel_x_1, vel_y_1, vel_z1_1, vel_z2_1, vel_x_2, vel_y_2, vel_z1_2, vel_z2_2)

Dimensions for the variables:x_1 = is the horizontal cross-shore position for the first Vectrino (m)y_1 = is the horizontal alongshore position for the first Vectrino (m)zb_1 = is the elevation of the sampling volume of the sensor above the bed at the start of the specified experiment for the first Vectrino (m)za_1 = is the elevation of the sampling volume of the sensor above the bed at the end of the specified experiment for the first Vectrino (m)x_2 = is the horizontal cross-shore position for the second Vectrino (m)y_2 = is the horizontal alongshore position for the second Vectrino (m)zb_2 = is the elevation of the sampling volume of the sensor above the bed at the start of the specified experiment for the second Vectrino (m) za_2 = is the elevation of the sampling volume of the sensor above the bed at the end of the specified experiment for the second Vectrino (m)

Files in the folder This is the list of the files present in the folder Netcdf_files/Swash/vectrinoI/vel/:

vel_A1_01.nc vel_A1_02.nc vel_A1_03.nc …

Data handlingSeveral matlab routines have been created in order to generate and read the Netcdf files. They can be found in the folder vectrinoI/m_files. The matlab script vectrino1_data_to_netcdf.m reads raw data and generates the Netcdf files. The measured elevations are taken from the file Swash_Sensor_Locations.xlsx which is a modified version of the files BARDEX_SWASH_SensorElevations_asof_01_07_2012.xlsx and overwash_rig_adjustments_SeriesD_E.xlsx. The changes in the .xlsx file have been done in order to ease its reading. The Netcdf files can be read with the either the script open_Vectrino1_netcdf.m or the general function fun_open_netcdf.m. The latter requires the fully qualified name of the netcdf file as input.

APPENDIX N4 – NETCDF FILE DESCRIPTION FOR SWASH AND OVERWASH DATA (VECTRINO II)

The folder Netcdf_files/Swash/VectrinoII/data contains the files with the data measured by the Vectrino II instruments in the swash zone. The folder is subdivided into 5 subfolders, one for each Vectrino II. Therefore, the subfolders are:

PU_vectrinoII UNH_vectrinoII UD1_vectrinoII UD2_vectrinoII UD3_vectrinoII

Each subfolder contains 5 different data variables which are stored in 5 subfolders: Amp (Amplitude) Cor (CorBeam) Qua (QualityBeam) SNR (SNRBeam) Vel (Velocities)

The folder structure is summarized in the following table:

PU_vectrinoII UNH_vectrinoII UD1_vectrinoII UD2_vectrinoII UD3_vectrinoII

amp corquasnrvel

amp corquasnrvel

amp corquasnrvel

amp corquasnrvel

amp corquasnrvel

The subfolders contain the individual files with the corresponding Vectrino II data. The number of the files in each subfolder matches the number of wave cases. The name of each file is the parameter name (e.g., Amp_, Cor_, Qua_, SNR_, Vel_) followed by the name of the case (for example A1_01.nc for case A1_01).

The time series in the original files have been chopped up into shorter time segments which include the specific case but contain extra data in the beginning and at the end. No information has been lost in this procedure since a time segment begins when the preceding one finishes.


File structureAll variables measured by Vectrino II share the same dimension time. The following global attributes have been assigned:

Global: Start specifies the start time Stop specifies the stop time Definition confirms the definition of the vertical coordinate

Acknowledgements includes the HYDRALAB IV grant number

The variables with the 4 directional components are:Amp (Amp1, Amp2, Amp3, Amp4)Cor (Cor1, Cor2, Cor, Cor4)SNR (SNR1, SNR2, SNR3, SNR4)Quality (QUA1, QUA2, QUA, QUA4)Velocities (Vel_x, Vel_y, Vel_z1, Vel_z2)

Dimensions for the variable:z = the vertical distance between the instrument and the measurement point (m). z ranges from 0.04 m to 0.07 cm below the instrument.x = the horizontal cross-shore position (m)y = the horizontal alongshore position (m)zb = the elevation of the sensor above the bed at the start of the specified run (m)za = the elevation of the sensor above the bed at the end of the specified run (m)

Files in the folder This is the list of the files present in the folder Netcdf_files/Swash/VectrinoII/PU_vectrinoII/Velocities/:

Vel_A1_01.nc Vel_A1_02.nc Vel_A1_03.nc …

Data handlingSeveral matlab routines have been created in order to generate and read the Netcdf files. They can be found in the folder VectrinoII/m_files. The matlab script VectrinoII_data_to_netcdf.m reads raw data and generates the Netcdf files. The measured elevations are taken from the file Swash_Sensor_Locations.xlsx which is a modified version of the files BARDEX_SWASH_SensorElevations_asof_01_07_2012.xlsx and overwash_rig_adjustments_SeriesD_E.xlsx. The changes in the .xlsx file have been done in order to ease its reading. The Netcdf files can be read with either the script open_VectrinoII_netcdf.m or the general function fun_open_netcdf.m. The latter requires the fully qualified name of the netcdf file as input.

APPENDIX O – NETCDF FILE DESCRIPTION FOR SURF ZONE DATA

The folder Netcdf_files/Utrecht/data contains the files with the data measured by Utrecht instruments. The number of the files matches the number of wave cases. The name of each file is Surf_zone_data followed by the name of the case (for example Surf_zone_data_A1_01.nc for case A1_01).

The time indicates the elapsed time (in seconds) from the start time (day-month-year hour:minute:second), which is the time when each instrument started recording.

File structureIn each file there are 4 fields. They are:

OSSI MF CRD ADV

These fields will be described in detail below. The following global attributes have been assigned:

Global: Start specifies the start time Acknowledgements includes the HYDRALAB IV grant number

Field: OSSIOSSI are stand-alone pressure transducers (9 sensors). The pressure has been converted to meters fresh water above the sensor. No correction to the free surface elevation, to account for wave damping, has been performed. The following variables are included in the field:OSSI_t = elapsed time from start with units (s)OSSI_x = horizontal cross-shore coordinates of each OSSI PT with units (m)OSSI_y = horizontal long-shore coordinates of each OSSI PT with units (m)OSSI_z = vertical coordinates from the concrete bottom of each OSSI PT with units (m)OSSI_pressure = pressure (converted to elevation) time series of each OSSI PT with units (m)

Field: MFMF field comprises 3 rigs equipped with a PT, an EMCM and 3 OBSs. The following variables are included in the field:MF_t = elapsed time from start with units (s)MF_x = horizontal cross-shore coordinates of each rig with units (m)MF_z1_pressure = vertical coordinates of each MF-PT sensor with units (m)MF_pressure = pressure (converted to elevation) time series of each MF-PT with units (m)MF_z1_velocity = vertical coordinates from the sandy bottom of each MF-EMCM with units (m)MF_velocity_x = horizontal cross-shore velocity of each MF-EMCM with units (m s -

1)

MF_velocity_y = horizontal longshore velocity of each MF-EMCM with units (m s-1)MF_z1_concentration_lower = vertical coordinates form the sandy bottom of each lower MF-OBS with units (m)MF_z1_concentration_middle = vertical coordinates form the sandy bottom of each middle MF-OBS with units (m)MF_z1_concentration_upper = vertical coordinates from the sandy bottom of each upper MF-OBS with units (m)MF_concentration_lower = concentration time series of each lower MF-OBS with units (kg m-3)MF_concentration_middle = concentration time series of each middle MF-OBS with units (kg m-3)MF_concentration_upper = concentration time series of each upper MF-OBS with units (kg m-3)

Field: CRDCRD denotes the sensors on the turbulence rig. They are a PT and 7 OBSs.The following variables are included in the field:CRD_t = elapsed time from start with units (s)CRD_x = horizontal cross-shore coordinates of the rig with units (m)CRD_z1_pressure = vertical coordinates form the sandy bottom of the CRD-PT with units (m)CRD_pressure = pressure (converted to elevation) time series of the CRD-PT with units (m)CRD_z1_concentration = vertical coordinates from the sandy bottom of each CRD-OBS with units (m)CRD_concentration = concentration time series of each CRD-OBS with units (kg m-3)

Field: ADVADV denotes the 3 ADVs stacked vertically on the turbulence rig. The following variables are included in the field:ADV1_t = elapsed time from start with units (s)ADV2_t = elapsed time from start with units (s)ADV3_t = elapsed time from start with units (s)ADV_x = horizontal cross-shore coordinates of the rig with units (m)ADV_z1 = vertical coordinates from the sandy bottom of the each ADV with units (m)ADV1_velocity = 3 components of velocity measured by the ADV1 with units (m s-1)ADV2_velocity = 3 components of velocity measured by the ADV2 with units (m s-1)ADV3_velocity = 3 components of velocity measured by the ADV3 with units (m s-1)

Files in the folder This is the list of the files present in the folder Netcdf_files/Utrecht/data:

Surf_zone_data_A1_01.nc Surf_zone_data_A1_02.nc Surf_zone_data_A1_03.nc …

Data handlingSeveral matlab routines have been created in order to generate and read the Netcdf files. They can be found in the folder Netcdf_files/Utrecht/m_files. The matlab script surf_zone_to_netcdf.m reads raw data and generates the Netcdf files. The Netcdf files can be read with the script open_netcdf_surf_zone.m.

APPENDIX P1 – NETCDF FILE DESCRIPTION FOR OFFSHORE RIG DATA (ABS)

The folder Netcdf_files/Southampton/ABS/data contains the files with the data measured by the University of Southampton using the Plymouth University Acoustic Backscatter Sensor (ABS).

The number of the files matches the number of wave cases. The name of each file is followed by the name of the case (for example ABS_data_A1_01.nc for case A1_01). The time series in the original files have been split up into shorter time segments, each one including a determined case. The time indicates the elapsed time (in seconds) from the start time (years/month/day hour:minute:second) which is the time when the instruments start recording.

File structureAll variables measured by ABS share the same dimension time t.

Global: Start specifies the start time Acknowledgements includes the HYDRALAB IV grant number x_pos is the horizontal (cross-shore) position of the instrument y_pos is the horizontal (long-shore) position of the instrument z_pos is the vertical position of the instrument measured with respect to the

concrete bottom z is vertical coordinate, in units of mm from the transducer

The variables for the ABS are: Mass = the mass concentration (grams per litre) Size = the particle diameter in mm

Files in the folder This is the list of the files present in the folder ABS/data:

ABS_data_A1_1.nc ABS_data_A1_2.nc ABS_data_A1_3.nc …

Data handlingSeveral matlab routines have been created in order to generate and read the Netcdf files. They can be found in the folder ABS/m_files.The matlab script netcdf_creation/ABS_to_netcdf.m reads raw data and generates the Netcdf files. The Netcdf files can be read with the script netcdf_open/open_netcdf_ABS_SU.m.

APPENDIX P2 – DOCUMENTATION NETCDF FILE DESCRIPTION FOR OFFSHORE RIG DATA (VECTRINO)

The folder Netcdf_files/Southampton/ADV/data contains the files with the data measured by the University of Southampton Vectrino instruments. The folder contains data variables which are stored in 2 subfolders:

Master Slave

The subfolders contain the file with the Vectrino data. The number of the files matches the number of wave cases. The name of each file is followed by the name of the case (for example A1_01.nc for case A1_01).

The time series in the original files have been split up into shorter time segments, each one including a determined case. No information has been lost in this procedure since a time segment begins when the preceding one finishes. The time indicates the elapsed time (in seconds) from the start time (years/month/day hour:minute:second) which is the time when the instruments start recording.

File structureAll variables measured by Vectrino I share the same dimension time t.

Global: Start specifies the start time Acknowledgements includes the HYDRALAB IV grant number Temperature is the water temperature in Celsius degrees x_pos is the horizontal (cross-shore) position of the instrument (m) y_pos is the horizontal (long-shore) position of the instrument (m) z_pos is the vertical position of the sampling volume of the instrument with

respect to the concrete bottom (m)

The variables for the Vectrino with the 4 directional components are:

AmpBeam (amp_x, amp_y, amp_z1, amp_z2)CorBeam (cor_x, cor_y, cor_z1, cor_z2)SNRBeam (snr_x, snr_y, snr_z1, snr_z2)Velocities (vel_x, vel_y, vel_z1, vel_z2)

Files in the folder This is the list of the files present in the folder ADV/data/Master:

A1_1.nc A1_2.nc A1_3.nc …

Data handlingSeveral matlab routines have been created in order to generate and read the Netcdf files. They can be found in the folder ADV/m_files. The matlab script netcdf_creation/Vectrino_to_netcdf.m reads raw data and generates the Netcdf files. The measured elevations are taken from the total station data file. The Netcdf files can be read with the script netcdf_open/open_netcdf_ADV_SU.m.

APPENDIX P3 – DOCUMENTATION NETCDF FILE DESCRIPTION FOR OFFSHORE RIG DATA (SRP)

The folder Netcdf_files/Southampton/SPRS/data contains the files with the data measured by University of Southampton using the Plymouth University sand ripple profilers. The number of the files matches the number of wave cases. The name of each file is SPRS_data followed by the name of the case and the identification number of the instrument (for example SPRS_data_A1_01_164.nc for case A1_01, instrument 164).

The time indicates the elapsed time (in seconds) from the start time (years/month/day hour:minute:second) which is the time when the instruments start recording.

File structureThe variable theta is the angle of the measurement with respect to the vertical (the use of a correction angle if the axis of the instruments was not perfectly vertical or perpendicular to the bed should be taken into account). R represents the distance of the bed from the sensor. R is in m and has dimension time t. The following global attributes have been assigned:

Global: Start specifies the start time Acknowledgements includes the HYDRALAB IV grant number x_position is the cross-shore position of the sensor (m) y_position is the long-shore position of the sensor (m) z_position is the vertical position of the sensor (m) description indicates the orientation of the horizontal axis (direction of

scanning) name_sens indicates the name of the instrument (164 or 165)

Files in the folder This is the list of the files present in the folder SPRS/data:

SPRS_data_A1_01.nc SPRS_data_A1_02.nc SPRS_data_A1_03.nc …

Data handlingSeveral matlab routines have been created in order to generate and read the Netcdf files. They can be found in the folder SPRS/m_files. The matlab script SPRS_to_netcdf.m reads raw data and generates the Netcdf files. The Netcdf files can be read with the script open_netcdf_SPRS.m.

APPENDIX Q – OVERVIEW OF TOTAL STATION SURVEYS

Date DeltaresEquip.

DeltaresVideo cameras

Deltaresvideo GCPs

UNSWBed-level sensors

UNSWLidar

UNSW GW frame

UNSW GW tubes

UoSOffshore rig

UUSurf zone equip.

UUpressure sensors

UoP/UDelSwash zone equip.

UoPpressure sensors

05/06/12 X (hydro) X (lower) X X X06/06/12 X (all) X (upper)07/06/12 X (tubes) X (all) X (all) X08/06/12 X (G) X (all)11/06/12 X (16-45) X X12/06/12 X X (Max)13/06/12 X (both) X14/06/12 X (1-44) X (both) X X15/06/12 X X (both) X X18/06/12 X (both) X (all) X X19/06/12 X (5-15) X X20/06/12 X X (both) X X21/06/12 X (both) X (11) X X22/06/12 X X25/06/12 X (Max) X X26/06/12 X (all) X (11-45) X X

Note that on 27/06/12 a large amount of equipment was relocated. Surveys were done before and after the move.27/06/12 X X (all) X (all) X (Max) X X28/06/12 X (a, b) X X29/06/12 X X02/07/12 X X03/07/12 X X (10-45) X X04/07/12 X (1-15) X (Max) X X

APPENDIX R – BARDEX II papers presented at ICS2013

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Data Management Report€¦ · Web viewThe data storage plan may be adapted during testing. ... NETCDF file description for offshore rig data (ABS) 56 Appendix P2 – NETCDF file