Dachshund Handbook

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THE DACHSHUND CLUB OF AMERICA

HANDBOOK ON

THE DACHSHUND

PREFACE

This booklet is made possible by combining the previous work done forDCA by Dee Hutchinsons The Dachshund Club of America, Inc.Handbook and Judy Goulders, The Dachshund.

This booklet is for the novice Dachshund owner to use as a guide, toassist in general care, grooming, training, and to keep your dog happyand healthy for many years. Your dogs breeder, or a knowledgeablebreeder in your area, should be able to provide more detailed groomingand training techniques and information.

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THE DACHSHUND CLUB OF AMERICA, INC.

The Dachshund Club of America (DCA) is oneof the oldest breed club members in the

American Kennel Club, elected to membershipin 1895. Only eight other breed clubs havegreater longevity.

In 1934, the Dachshund Club of America pre-sented its first single breed specialty show, held in New York City. Thejudge was Mrs. C. Davies Tainter and there were 204 Dachshundsentered. Between the years 1936-1941, the DCA specialties were held at

the Morris & Essex Show in New Jersey. Since 1960, the DCA ParentSpecialty has moved around the country using a regional schedule Eastcoast, West coast, Midwest, Southwest, Southeast, Northwest andNortheast. The National Specialties have an average entry of 400 dogs.

With over 1,200 members, the Dachshund Club of America is an active,viable organization. There are few areas of interest that DCA is notinvolved or interested in.

DCA is financially supportive of medical research on behalf of thedachshund. Many research projects are ongoing: disc disease and pro-gressive retinal atrophy are only a couple of the areas to which DCAhas contributed both financially and with member participation inthese studies.

DCA provides bronze plaques, medallions, and gold plated pins asprizes at Parent and Regional Specialty shows, as well as Field Trials andObedience Trials. DCA also recognizes the versatility of our breed byawarding Versatility Certificates. This certificate is awarded only to dachs-hunds that perform meritoriously in multiple areas: Conformation,Obedience, Field, Earthdog, Agility, Rally and Canine Good Citizen.

DCA also publishes a quarterly Newsletter for its members that are also

available to the dachshund loving public through subscription. TheNewsletter provides a forum for articles, interviews, show results andkennel advertising.

Information regarding the Dachshund Club of America, Inc can also befound on their web site at www.dachshund-dca.org.

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There are over 50 active Dachshund Regional Specialty shows across theUnited States. Through our secretary or our website, www.dachshund-dca.org, we are able to refer you to a dachshund club in your region/area.

These clubs, in turn, can refer you to reputable members who have ani-mals available for sale or can just answer your questions on the breed.

HISTORY OF THE DACHSHUND

It is difficult to say exactly where the dachshund as a specific breed orig-inated. There are as many different opinions as there are experts on thebreed. Traditionally, the dachshund is thought of as a German dog, sincehis name translate into badger dog. There is little doubt that the

Germans are responsible for considerable improvement in the breed andthat they have done much to further his capabilities.

It seems reasonable to assume that dachshunds are descended from thebasset hound. Early breeders, being desirous of a smaller dog that couldgo to ground, used a breeding program that helped the dachshundevolve into the breed which we recognize today.

Whatever his earlier origins, it is to the Germans that we look for specif-ic records. In 1840, there were 54 dachshunds registered in the all-breedstudbook in Germany. In 1879, the first standard for the dachshundbreed was written. It is amazing how few changes have been made in thestandard since that time.

Lieutenant Ligner, the first president of that organization, formed the

Berlin Teckelclub in 1888. The first studbook devoted solely to dachs-hunds was published in 1890 with 394 dachshunds registered. If onechooses, one could trace present-day pedigrees back to famous foreignkennels whose dogs were imported into the United States: vonLichtenstein, von Luitpoldsheim, Asbeck, Flottenberg, Lindenbuhl,Falltor and Holtzgarten.

The first dachshunds brought into the United States were Caesar and

Minka, imported in 1887. They were the first of many. From 1887 untilthe beginning of World War I, there was a steady stream of dachshundinto this country. With the advent of the war and the resulting hysteriaover anything German, the dachshund lost much popularity andGerman breeding and breeding stock became almost non-existent.Under the capable guidance of a few dedicated individuals, dachshund

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breeding was reestablished in the United States. World War II againbrought disaster to German breeders. However, by then American breed-ers were well established and the popularity of the dachshund continuedto increase. Today, the dachshund is consistently among the top tenmost popular breed in terms of AKC registrations.

The smooth and the longhair varieties have coexisted for centuries andwere even bred back and forth [although this is not common practicetoday]. The wirehair is the more recent of the varieties, produced to fillthe need for a coat resistant to more extreme conditions.

WHY A DACHSHUND?

There are 153 different breeds recognized by theAmerican Kennel Club. What is there about theDachshund that makes him so desirable? First,it is his versatility. The dachshund comes in twosizes (standard and miniature) and three differ-ent coats (smooth, longhair and wirehair), sono matter what area of the country you live,

there is a dachshund to fit your environment.

The dachshund us quite intelligent, but he does have a mind of his own.He responds well to training, although his innate stubborn streak maysometimes exhibit itself. If you want a challenge, train your dachshundin obedience work.

As a sporting dog, he has an excellent nose for trailing and his disposi-tion and conformation contribute to his skill as an underground work-er. He is agile, persistent, and has exceptional hunting instincts. He isparticularly well adapted to working rabbits.

Around young children, the dachshund is a splendid choice. He is dedi-cated and protective as well as affectionate and playful. His size, cleanli-ness, and lack of doggy odor are characteristics that please the woman

of the house.

Dachshunds are alert watchdogs. They will loudly proclaim theapproach of any stranger. The dachshund is easy to love, but he givesmuch more than he gets. He is courageous to the point of rashness. Hisdelightful antics will provide you with hours of pleasure.

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Without a doubt, the dachshund will be a clever, playful and lively addi-tion to your family.

WHY BUY FROM A BREEDER?

Some years ago, researchers at McGillUniversity in Montreal found that thehome raised animals are both physicallyand psychologically superior to cagedanimals and have remarkably fewerbehavior problems. Therefore, a reliableshow breeder is preferable to a pet shop (or puppy mill) when searching

for your dachshund.

Pet shops and puppy mills are profit oriented. They do not considerimproving the breed and puppies are turned out on a production linebasis at the lowest possible cost. This means that the animals are cagedand minimum expenditures are made for both health care and nutrition.

Breeders, on the other hand, are dog lovers. Dachshund show breeders

strive to produce dogs that most closely approach the ideal describedin the standard. More often than not, these litters are raised in theirhomes and are accustomed to a loving family life before they are readyto go to their new homes. Breeders are happy to give a reasonablehealth guarantee knowing they have given their pups the benefit ofgood nutrition and necessary veterinary care. Most of the puppies pro-duced by breeders are not destined to become show dogs but they do

possess the character, personality and body type described for thebreed. Puppies purchased from show breeders are soon welcome andloved members of the family.

CHOOSING A PUPPY

No one can guarantee champions, for that would require the ability tolook into the future. Much of a grown dogs good qualities, no matter

how well bred or raised before you became its owner, will disappear ifone does not continue with proper nutrition and health care.

Most potential buyers want a 6 to 8 week old puppy. Most reliable breed-ers will not part with a puppy that young for good reasons. At 12 weeks,the puppies are more independent, having been away from their moth-

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er for a longer period of time. At 12 weeks, they tend to be attentive totraining in general and ready to be house-trained. The younger puppycannot control himself well. The 12-week-old puppy will have had inoc-ulations that are so important to his adult well-being. At this age, he isready to bond with his new owners with all the love his little body canproduce.

Decide first what size and variety you want. If there are young childrenin the family, a standard might be a better choice. Do not be deterred bythe size of the puppy. The big, happy, floppy puppy may grow up to bea coarse adult, while the smallest in the litter may turn out to be the bet-ter dog.

Usually it is wise to choose the puppy that comes to you. The little onethat sits back in the corner may just being quiet and shy or have beenbullied by siblings. You do not want a shy puppy.

When you pick up the puppy, he should feel hard and firm in yourhands, He should have good, heavy bone. If he does not have it at threemonths, he wont have it later. He should have straight front legs and a

strong square rear. Check the puppys bite: the dachshund should have ascissors bite in which the inside of the top teeth touch the outside ofthe bottom teeth. Look for a puppy with a dark brown or black eye, thedarker the better. A light eye or light nose is not desirable. The pigmen-tation on the nose should be black in most cases.

When you have made your choice, ask the breeder for a pedigree (it

should be a minimum of three generations) and the puppys AKC regis-tration certificate. Sometimes the certificate is not yet available. In thatcase, get the names of the sire and dam, their AKC registration numbers,the litter application number and the date the litter was whelped. It isalso a good idea to get in writing what inoculations have been given and

when, as well as what the puppy has been eating. It is not wise to changea puppys diet too abruptly.

Then, take your puppy home and begin a wonderful relationship!

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VETERINARY CARE

In addition to visits for illness and emer-gencies, all dogs should be seen by a vet-erinarian on a regular basis for periodiccheck-ups, control of parasites and immu-nization against all serious illness.

Almost every dog has worms at one time or another. This should not bea bad reflection on the breeder in the case of puppies but the problemdoes need to be resolved. Some worms are virtually unavoidable. Round

worms are the most common and can sometimes be seen in feces.

However, other and more dangerous worms can be present which areonly detectable with the aid of a microscope. Examinations of stool sam-ples should be part of a program of regular veterinary care. If detectedearly and treated properly, most intestinal parasites can be controlled oreliminated without great difficulty. In many areas, heartworm, a parasitecarried by mosquitos, is prevalent. Let your veterinarian set up a pro-gram for prevention. Heartworm is difficult to treat, especially in olderdogs. Most worm medications are specific for one type of parasite and

not be used indiscriminately. Worm medications are toxicenough tokill worms while not enough to kill the dog. Follow your veterinariansadvice to the letter.

Fleas, ticks and other external parasites can be controlled with any num-ber of preparations available through your veterinarian. It is no shamefor your dogs to catch fleas but there is no excuse for these parasites set-

ting up housekeeping there. Your veterinarian can recommend the bestremedy.

Before weaning, puppies get immunity to many serious diseases throughtheir mothers milk. After weaning, this immunity rapidly disappears. Thebreeder of the litter will provide you with all information about the puppysinoculations and worming. Early inoculations only give temporary immu-nity to disease. Follow your veterinarians advice on gaining permanent

immunity to canine distemper, hepatitis, and leptospirosis. This will involvea series of vaccinations between 12 and 15 weeks of age and an annualbooster thereafter. [More recent studies indicate that annual boosters maynot be necessary in older dog. Discuss the medical routine best suited for

your pet with your veterinarian.2006] Your veterinarian will also suggest thebest time for rabies vaccination, which is also required for licensing.

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NUTRITION

This is such an important part of your dogs overall state of health andcontribution to his longevity, please consult with your breeder and vet-erinarian for their guidance and recommendations.

Dogs require at least forty-three nutrients in very specific ratios for idealnutrition. Almost all dog foods sold today are better for your dog thantable scraps and are more economical than anything you might prepare.Major dog food companies follow strict guidelines based on extensiveresearch to produce nutritionally sound products. Nutritional deficitscan be found with owners who indulge their pets with inadequate foods

or over-diligent owners who add supplements to carefully formulatedcommercial diets thereby disturbing the balance. A product labeled com-plete and balanced from a reputable manufacturer and plenty of fresh

water is the best approach to feeding your dog.

The method of feeding most widely used is the portion feeding method.Self-feeding method may also be preferred by some owners. In eithercase, follow the recommendations of the breeder when a puppy leaves

the litter for his new home. Then gradually make a transition to anyother complete and balanced food you select and the method of feeding

you prefer.

The newly weaned puppy should be fed quite moist food and it shouldbe served four times a day. A good rule of thumb for feeding is 1 ounceof food per pound of body weight per day. At three months of age, the

food can be drier and crunchier and three meals per day should be suf-ficient. The five to seven month old, or adolescent, puppy needs twomeals a day; at ten months to a year, physical maturity, one feeding a day

will do. With the self-feeding method, food at the proper consistency isleft before him at all times with plenty of clean fresh water so that hemay eat at will. This method has many advantages in that it cuts downon preparation time, eliminated the need to meet a feeding schedule andmay even save a rug or chair leg by being reduced by the dogs boredom.

Most animals raised with this method will not eat more than theamount needed to meet caloric needs.

For the dog fed with the traditional portion feeding method and the dogthat cannot adjust to the self-feeding, the responsibility for monitoring

weight falls to the owner. Every dog has its own nutritional needs and

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one may be roly-poly on the same amount that might leave another arack of bones. Seldom is undernourishment a problem with the con-scientious dog owner. There are certain stress conditions such as puppy-hood, pregnancy and nursing, hard work and cold weather, which willcause a nutritional need for a higher protein and greater caloric intake.Dramatic increases in protein can lead to problems in the urinary tract.

The dietary problem that is found most often in dogs is obesity.Although fat puppies are cute, too much weight can adversely affect nor-mal growth and development. Obesity in the dog has been shown tolower resistance to viral and bacterial infection, impair cardiac function,increase susceptibility to skin conditions and is associated with repro-ductive problems as well as shortened life span.

Watch your dogs profile. Adjust the quantity of his rations to keep himtrim and healthy. It is much easier to fatten a thin dog than it is to slen-derize a fatty. A report from Ralston Purina by Robert Mohrman of PetNutrition and Care research states that a twenty percent reduction incalorie intake will encourage a good rate of weight reduction in theobese Dachshund depending on the severity of the condition and theadvice of your veterinarian.

Special prescription diets are available for dogs with special nutritionalneeds due to kidney, heart or liver disease, obesity and even allergies.

Your veterinarian can advise you best on any special dietary needs yourdog might have.

EXERCISE

Every dog needs to exercise to maintaingood health and muscle tone. Provide

your Dachshund with an outdoor areasafely enclosed where he can moveabout freely and enjoy the fresh air andsunshine. See that he has fresh waterand a shelter where he can get out of the

sun or wind. Most Dachshunds arehardy and can go out in all weather. However, your dog should not bemade to stay out in extreme cold or heat. Your Dachshund should havesome controlled exercise on a leash as well. A good working trot to seenew places and people will benefit him both mentally and physically as

well as offering some benefits to the person on the other end of the leash.

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KENNELING AND THE CRATE METHOD OF HOUSEKEEPING

Every dog should have a place of his own where he can retreat for undis-turbed rest while feeling safe and secure. This is especially important forthe new puppy. An airline create or folding metal rate will feel this neednicely and, in addition, will give you a nice useful tool in housetraining.

There are those who feel crating a dog is cruel. On the contrary, any dogwill seek a secluded and protected nook for his place of rest. You will bedoing your puppy a favor by providing him with a place where he canfeel snug and safe.

To housebreak your dog effectively you must follow a routine for at leasttwo weeks. Before you retire in the evening, take your puppy out andturn him loose in his exercise yard. He will feel less restricted off leash.If he does his duties, praise him and return him to his crate indoors. Hisnatural instincts will tell him to keep is quarters clean. The very firstthing in the morning, carry him to his exercise yard. He should respondquickly since he has held it all night. More praise and back indoors forfree run of the room where you will be - -not the whole house. Enjoy

each others company for a while and then give him breakfast. As soonas his last bite is gone, take him outside again. Again, praise for the rightbehavior and return him indoors to his crate for a couple of hours while

you go about your usual routine. Towards noon, take him out of thecrate and back to the exercise yard. More praise and in the house forsome freedom in the room where you will be then back to his crate forawhile. The same routine is repeated for his noon meal and supper.

Remember, put him outside as soon as he has finished the last mouth-ful. Give him free run of the room where you are during the evening witha quick trip out at 8:30pm or so and again just before bed.

Preventing your pup from doing his duties indoors and praising hisrelieving himself outside, good habits will be fairly firm in a couple of

weeks. As you feel these habits are more and more firmly established,allow your pup longer periods of freedom and introduce him to other

rooms. Should he have an accident during these periods of freedom, aloud NO! followed by a quick and unceremonious trip to the exercise

yard will refresh his memory.

You will probably, after a few days, notice that your pup retreats to hiscrate on his own during periods of freedom. Great! A dog who will stay

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happily in his create on his own during the night and when the ownersare away gets into far less mischief, is much easier to take traveling and

will certainly be more welcome at hotels and motels.

airline approved hard plastic wire folding/collapsible soft-side / collapsible

TOYS FOR CHEWINGPuppies need something to chew while cutting teeth. Older dogs alsoneed something to chew for aid in teeth cleaning and sometimes torelieve or prevent boredom. In order ro prevent the destruction of furni-ture, rugs and other possessions, you must provide your dog with some-thing suitable on which he can chew.

The first thought is bones. Six-inch lengths of round beef shin bones arethe only safe natural bones since all others can be broken or splinteredand swallowed. Sharp pieces may pierce the intestine, cause blockageand upset digestion and, if not detected early, may even cause death.

Plastic and rubber toys are easily reduced to pieces by most puppies anddogs. If swallowed, these pieces can be as lethal as breakable bones.

There are, however, rubber toys which as virtually indestructible. Pleasebe sure to check the labels and consumer reports. Also available in petsupply stores are chewable products by NYLABONE, which will notsplinter or break. It is claimed that any nylon fibers, if swallowed, breakdown easily by stomach secretions.

Rawhide chew toys are among the safer of the chew toys. Certainly theyare preferable to an old shoe which may have nails and eyelets which can

be swallowed. However, there have been reports of dogs strangling onbits of rawhide which become lodged in the throat.

Dog biscuits are probably the safest thing for dogs to chew but they arebound to disappear with amazing speed. Too many biscuits could dis-rupt a carefully balanced diet. In short, you will have to settle on the

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item about which you feel best, the least of the evils, when choosingyour dogs chew toy.

GROOMING

Before attempting the specialized grooming, which will enhance thecharacteristics of the variety of Dachshund(s) you own, there are basicgrooming steps which need to be taken.

Brushing and Combing:Before you attempt to bathe, scissor or trim your Dachshund it is essen-tial that you completely brush or comb the coat. This stimulates the flow

of the natural coat oils and removes any tangles, which may be in thecoat of the Longhair or the Wirehair. It also removes any dead hairs priorto bathing. For the Longhairs and Wirehairs, pay particular attention tothe heavily coated areas. Regular brushing encourages a healthy coat.

comb flea comb slicker brush

Teeth:

You can keep your dogs teeth clean by using amixture of equal parts baking soda and salt. Thereare also tooth paste/cleaner for dogs availablethrough pet supply vendors. Moisten a corner of aterry wash cloth (or use a tooth brush designed forcanine application), dip into mixture and rub oneach tooth. This will help keep plaque and tartarfrom building up and causing discoloration

and/or premature loss of teeth.

If tartar (hardened yellowish-brownish material) does become evidenton your dogs teeth, you can use a dental scaler to remove the tartar inmuch the same way as your dentist does. Scalers are available from mostof the large animal supply places. To use the scaler, place it parallel to the

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tooth on which you are working and at the edge of the gum line. For theupper teeth, draw the scaler down from the gum line to the tip of thetooth, using firm pressure. For the lower teeth, draw the scaler up fromthe gum line to the tip of the tooth. Once all the teeth have been scaledin this manner, use the baking soda and salt mixture to remove any tinybit of matter that you may have missed. (Take care to not cut the gums

with the scaler. If you feel unsure or, uncomfortable performing this task,most veterinary offices offer this service.)

Ears:Dogs ears need to be cleaned on a regular basis, Remember, they are sen-sitive, so you should not probe too deeply, or you may cause injury. A

cotton tipped swab dipped in Baby Oil does a nice job on the ears. Makesure you use the swab gently.

Anal glands:(*Note: In addition to these instructions, ask your veterinarian to show

you the correct approach the first time, as you may cause extreme painor injury if not done correctly)

These glands are located in either side of the rectal opening and secrete

fluid, which aids the dog in moving his bowels. Sometimes the analfluid builds up and hardens to the point where impaction and/orabscess occur. This can be very painful for the animal, and will require

veterinary attention. To help avoid this situation, you should periodical-ly empty these glands. The frequency will depend on how quickly mat-ter builds up. When the anal glands are full you can actually feel thesemi-hard sacs on wither side of the rectum. The contents of the anal

gland have a very vile odor, so it is best to empty them immediatelybefore bathing the dog, or have soap and water solution available tosponge bathe the rectal area as you empty the glands.

To empty the glands, stand the dog on a firm surface with his hindquar-ters toward you. Grasp the dogs tail with one hand and hold it up. Withthe other hand place a piece of cotton, gauze pad, or several tissues overthe rectal area and, with your thumb and forefinger, press slightly inward

(towards the dogs body) on either side of the rectal opening. Graduallysqueeze your fingers together toward the rectal opening and outward,away from the dogs body. Repeat this procedure until no more fluid isexpressed. *

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Nails:It is important to keep your dogs nails short, both for his comfort, andto prevent his feet from splaying which allows debris and stones to catchbetween his pads. The Dachshund has a compact foot designed for cross-ing tough terrain while in pursuit of game. To help keep the foot this

way, short nails are a necessity. From the standpoint of the house pet,short nails do not scratch your furniture, catch on clothing, rugs, bed-ding or upholstery. The easiest nail clipper to use is a RESCO NAIL CLIP-PER. This is a guillotine-type blade instrument available at most pet sup-ply places. Most people are afraid to cut the dogs nails for fear of mak-ing the dog bleed. Powdered nail clotting material is also available frommost pet supply dealers. (Have your breeder or veterinarian demonstrate

the best length and technique if this is your first time.)

trim the pointed tip guillotine style plier style grinder

The dogs nail has a very broad base and then a definite point where thenail suddenly begins to taper. It is at this point that the nail should becut. If you do cut the nail too short and it begins to bleed, take a pinchof the powdered nail clotting material and press it on the end of the nail.

This powder is an coagulant and will stop bleeding quickly. The freshlycut edges of the nails can be smoothed with a nail file. Some breeders

will use small handheld grinders instead of tail trimmers. This enablesthem to grind the nail short and smooth. It may take a few sessions forthe dog to become accustomed to the noise and vibration but leaves anicely groomed appearance to the nails and feet.

Bathing:Place a rubber mat in the bottom of the bathtub or sink to provide surefooting for the dog. Place a drop of mineral oil in each eye to protectagainst the possibility of irritation should you accidentally get shampooin the eyes. A spray hose attachment facilitates wetting and rinsing thedog; a sponge or wash cloth will allow you to wash the head, ears andmuzzle without getting shampoo in the eyes.

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Select a good quality shampoo to use. Wet the dogs coat with tepidwater, apply the shampoo and work into a rich lather. The dog will enjoya brisk massage with the shampoo and it is good for his coat and skin.Rinse and shampoo again. Be sure to rinse the dog thoroughly since anyshampoo residue will cause dryness, flaking and itching. Towel dry thedog, or you may use a hair dryer set on the lowest setting to complete thedrying process.

Special Bathing Procedure:For dry/flaking skin; apply baby oil or bath oil (or breeder recommend-ed product) and brush it into the coat thoroughly. Leave this on for a fewhours, then bathe the dog as usual. Dry or brittle coat on the Longhair

Dachshund; use the same procedure as outlined above, but follow thebath with a good quality crme rinse. Leave the crme rinse on the coatfor 2 to 3 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.

SHOW GROOMING OF THELONGHAIR DACHSHUND

Curly, wavy or fly-away coat of

the hair on the back of the frontlegs should be combed towardthe back of the body. If the coat istoo profuse and tends to protrude to the sides, use thinning shears untilthe coat does comb back. It is also helpful to frequently dampen thishair and comb it back in order to train the hair growth.

The hair on the back of the thighs should also be long and full, but notprotruding outward to the side of the legs. Use the thinning shears toblend this coat into the upper thigh area.

Feet:Cut the hair on the bottom of the feet even with the pads. With the footplaced securely on a firm surface, trim the foot with a straight scissor.

The desired look is a rounded, compact foot. You may have to scissor the

top of the foot in the area of the nails to remove wispy hairs which stickup over the nails. Do not cut the hair in an outline around the nails;rather, cut so as to blend this hair into a fully coated rounded appear-ance.

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Tail:The coat of the Longhair Dachshund should reach its greatest length onthe underside of the tail. Therefore, little is done to the tail other thancombing and brushing to maintain its condition.

PET GROOMING OF THE LONGHAIR DACHSHUND

Combing the back of the neck and body with a MAGNET STRIPPINGBLADE on a regular basis will remove dead hair and undercoat and keepthe coat in good condition. Scissor the hair on the bottom of the feeteven with the pads to keep dirt and debris from accumulating. Use athinning shear to shorten the hair on the sides of the neck where the coat

growth from the back of the neck joins the front of the neck.

Regular, but not frequent, bathing followed by a crme rinse and lots ofbrushing will keep the coat in good, shining condition.

comb curved edge straight-edge straight-edge thinning shearsblunted tip pointed tip

SHOW GROOMING OF THE

SMOOTH DACHSHUND

The Smooth (short haired)Dachshund has a short, thick,shiny coat. Very little grooming isrequired in order to show this

variety.

Head:Use a straight shear with rounded tips to cut the whiskers on the muzzle(optional), over the eyes, on the cheeks, and on the underside of the jaw.

These whiskers should be cut very close to the skin.

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Neck:If the dog has a particularly thick coat, you may have to scissor the strayhairs on both sides of the neck where the coat growth from the back ofthe neck joins the growth from the front. You may also have to trim the

wispy hairs that may protrude at the point of the breastbone. This maybe done with either straight edge scissors or thinning shears. Cut slow-ly and carefully so that you do not leave a bare spot or sharp line where

you have scissored.

Tail:If the hair on the underside of the tail is thick and unkempt looking trim

with scissors or thinning shears to give a sleek tapered look.

Feet:Trim any hair that may protrude on the underside of the feet so that thehair is even with the pads.

A light spray of coat dressing oil, or a small amount of baby oil rubbedon your hands and then applied to the coat, will add luster and sheen tothe coat.

PET GROOMING OF THE SMOOTH DACHSHUND

The Smooth Dachshund who is not being shown requires practically nogrooming to be the ideal house pet. He should be bathed occasionallyand brushed often to keep the skin healthy and the coat glowing.

SHOW GROOMING THEWIREHAIRED DACHSHUND

According to the Breed Standardfor Dachshunds, With theexception of the jaw, eyebrows,and ears, the whole body is cov-

ered with a perfectly uniform, tight, short, thick, rough, hard coat, butwith finer shorter hairs (undercoat) everywhere distributed between thecoarser hairs, resembling the coat of the German Wirehaired Pointer.

There should be a beard on the chin. The eyebrows are bushy, on the earsthe hair is shorter than on the body, but in any case conforming to therest of the coat. The general arrangement of the hair should be such that

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the Wirehaired Dachshund, when seen from a distance should resemblethe smooth haired.

In grooming the Wirehaired Dachshund, you are attempting to enhancethe Dachshund shape of the body and emphasize the wire characteristics.

There are basically two methods of grooming the WirehairedDachshund ~ plucking and stripping, or a combination of both.Plucking consists of using the thumb and index finger to pull out thelonger coat hairs. Stripping is done with a stripping knife. There aremany types of stripping knives available. You must find the one mostcomfortable for you to use. Stripping is done by placing the knife against

the coat, catching a small amount of hair against the blade with yourthumb and pulling the longer hairs out of the coat. With either method,small amounts of hair should be done at a time and the hair should bepulled in the direction of coat growth with quick jerking motion. Neverpluck or strip the hair against the direction of coat growth.

When you plan to remove a great deal of the coat, referred to as takingthe coat down, you should do the major work eight to twelve weeks

before the date of the show. The rate of coat growth differs from dog todog, so you might have to experiment to determine the best time sched-ule for your dog.

Once you get the coat in show condition, you can maintain it by strip-ping or plucking the longer hairs on a weekly basis. This removes anydead hair and allows for constant new growth of hair. This method is

called rotation of the coat.

Head:The head should be stripped or plucked from just behind the eyebrows,over the top of the skull and down into the neck area, between the eyes,and the cheek area from the outer corner of the eye to the corner of thelip. Stray hairs at the inner corner of the eye should be removed and theeyebrows should be longer at the inside corner of the eye tapering to the

outside corner of the eye where they are flush with the skull structure.The eyebrows should be short enough to allow the eyes to be readilyseen.

Since the overall head structure should be uniformly tapered, it may benecessary to thin out the beard to achieve this look. It is also possible to

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remove some of the coat from the center of the under jaw to allow thebeard to lie closer against the muzzle.

Since the overall head structure should be uniformly tapered, it may benecessary to thin out the beard to achieve this look. It is also possible toremove some of the coat from the center of the under jaw to allow thebeard to lie closer against the muzzle.

Ears:Remove all the longer hairs from the outside and underside of the ear.

This will leave a very short undercoat on the ear. Usually this hair has tobe removed only once or twice; it does not tend to grow back. The hair

on the inside of the ear where the ear joins the cheek should be scissoredvery close to the skin to allow the ear to lie flat against the cheek.

Neck:The longer hairs on the neck should be stripped or plucked under thechin and down the throat to the breast bone, along the sides of the neck;and on the back of the neck, blending into the shoulder area.

Body:The body coat is kept a little longer that the head and neck ~ about ? to? inches long. Stripping or plucking should be done from the neck areaalong the topline and sides to the tail. The underside of the body shouldbe plucked or stripped to conform to the rest of the body. Do not leavegreat length of coat here is it will look like a skirt. If the dog does nothave a deep chest, groom the coat on the underside of the body so that

the chest area is slightly longer, and taper it up into the loin area.

Tail:The tail should be plucked or stripped to give an even tapered look.Since the underside of the tail may be sensitive, you may wish to usethinning shears on this area. When using any type of scissor always cut

with the growth of the hair, never against it. Be sure to cut the hairsaround the anus for a neat appearance, which conform with the rest of

the grooming.

Legs:The hair on the legs should conform to the body coat, but may be just alittle longer, Judicious plucking or stripping of the longer hairs shouldbe done to enhance the full wire coat growth.

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Feet:Use straight scissors to trim the hair on the bottom of the feet even withthe pads. With the foot place securely on a flat surface, use a straight edgescissor to trim the hair around the foot. The desired effect is one of arounded, compact foot.

PET GROOMING OF THE WIREHAIR DACHSHUND

You can achieve the same result in the appearance of the dog by using aclipper. However, in most instances, you will not be able to maintain theharsh texture of the coat with this method. Clippering is a time savingmethod of keeping the dog neat while general conforming to the desired

look of the Wirehaired Dachshund.

Follow the same pattern of grooming as outlined above using the follow-ing blades:

HEAD, UNDERSIDE OF THE NECK and EARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .#10BACK OF THE NECK, BODY and TAIL . . . . .#5 (leaves hair 1/2 long)

Or #7 (leaves hair 1/4 long)

EYEBROWS and BEARD . .Scissor these to the desired shape and length

stripping tool

TO BREED OR NOT TO BREED YOUR DACHSHUND

This decision demands a great deal of thought. Aside from the fact thathaving a litter will not make Gretchen a better dog and that accuratebookkeeping on the cost of a litter will reveal a deficit rather thanenough profit to put the kids through college, the outstanding fact

remains that the world does not need more dogs. Reports estimate thatannually more than twenty million pets are euthanized for reasons thatare not medical. Most of these were produced by the casual breeder, if

you will, or the non-responsible pet owner. Will your litter contribute tothe problem of the burgeoning numbers of unwanted pets? Will your lit-ter be a credit to the breed? The world does not need more dogs and the

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Dachshund fancy only needs better Dachshunds. The mating of pure-bred dogs should be aimed towards producing improved quality in bothtemperament and body structure. It should also be based on a thoroughknowledge of the breed and the principles of sound breeding. If thesefactors are not present then the breeding should not be carried out.

SO YOU WANT TO SHOW DOGS

Because they are fewer in number, show quality Dachshund are likely tocost more. Breeders are sometimes even reluctant to part with showprospects in an outright sale and may offer co-ownerships or otherbreeders terms. A true show prospect could be vital to the breeding pro-

gram the breeder has planned.

Once you have acquired your Dachshund with show potential, you canbe sure that the breeder will be helpful in getting you both into the ring.Match shows are a good place to start for both you and your dog. Yourlocal kennel club probably sponsors at least one match a year, as well asone point show. In addition to kennel clubs for all purebred dogs, thereare breed clubs specializing in single breeds. To find the kennel clubs

and Dachshund Clubs near you, contact the American Kennel Club, 260Madison Avenue, New York, New York 10010, www.akc.org on the inter-net or through the DCA web site at www.dachshund-dca.org. Throughthese clubs, you will surely get all the help and information you need tobegin the quest for the championship title for your Dachshund.

ENJOYING A DOG SHOW

If you are attending a dog show for the first time, you will be fascinatedwith the great number and variety of dogs that you will see. After a tourof the benches, or the show grounds, you will be drawn to the judgingrings and wonder at the activity going on there.

Here you will see a number of dogs being posed, paraded up and downby intense handlers, checked front and back individually, then against

each other by a very serious person who is the judge. Equally serious arethe people showing off their dogs, hoping to win his/her approval andthe coveted ribbons he/she will award. Finally, the judge indicates whichdogs have won and a burst of applause may greet his/her decision. Youmay wonder why the cute little dog appealed so much and you did not

win anything.and you may wonder what it is all about. If you under-

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stand what is going on, what a dog show is all about and why it is soimportant to the people who exhibit, you will certainly get more enjoy-ment out of the show. That is the purpose of this chapter, to help youunderstand and enjoy a dog show.

The primary purpose of a dog show is to enable dog owners to exhibittheir dogs in competition with others of its kind. The ultimate objectiveis to improve the quality of all purebred dogs. An intelligent breedingprogram, using the dogs, which have proven through such competition,to be the better representatives of their breeds, achieves this goal.

A dog show is a huge elimination contest. There are many contests tak-

ing place in every dog show. These may be the winning of blue ribbons,the winning of championship points, the Best of Breed and Best ofGroup honors and awards.

A sanctioned, or licensed, dog show is for purebred dogs only and theymust be registered or eligible for registration in the American KennelClub. To be accepted, the entry form must show the dogs individual reg-istration number (or the litter registration number until the final regis-

tration process is completed). While dog shows are sometimes referredto as canine beauty contests there is much more that just the surfacebeauty to be considered. In 2006, there are 153 breeds of dogs are rec-ognized by the American Kennel Club. Each of these breeds has its ownstandard of perfection. The judge takes account of two main factors. Hejudges the dogs against the standard for that breed and he judges thedogs against each other. He tries to pick those dogs which are nearest to

ideal type, and which are sound both physically and mentally.

The rules require that the judge personallyexamine each dog. He must check their teeth,eyes, hair coat, and must determine that themales have both testicles normally descendedinto the scrotum. If a dog is limping in thering, it is mandatory that the judge excuse it

from further judging. Any dog that attempts tobite the judge will also be excused.

There are regular classes for each breed.MALES ARE JUDGED SEPARATELY FROMFEMALES IN ALL REGULAR CLASSES. The

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classes are as follow: Puppy, Novice, Bred-By-Exhibitor, American-Bredand Open. (In dachshunds, the Open classes are divided into OpenMiniature and Open Standard.) Puppy classes are divided by age: six tonine months and nine to twelve months. The Novice class is for dogs sixmonths of age or over which have not won three first prizes in Noviceclass, a first in Bred-By-Exhibitor, American-bred, or Open, nor one ormore points towards their championship. The Bred-by-Exhibitor class isfor dogs which are owned by the breeder and are shown by the breederor a member of his/her immediate family (husband, wife, father, son,daughter, brother, sister). The American-bred class is for all dogs exceptchampions whelped in the United States by reason of mating that tookplace in this country. The *Open class is for any dog, six months of age

or older, that has not completed its championship. *Foreign bred dogsmust enter this class, except that Canadian-bred puppies can enter thePuppy class. Some breeds have the Open class divided by color as wellas miniature and standard, including Dachshunds.

The winner of each class gets a blue ribbon and is then eligible to com-pete in the Winners classes. The judge picks the best male for WinnersDog and the best female for Winners Bitch. A dog (or bitch) which has

been beaten only by the winner of the Winners class can then come in tocompete for Reserve Winners against the remaining first prize winners.

Best of Breed competition brings together already recognized AKC cham-pions of sexes, plus the Winners Dog and Winners Bitch. The judge thenmakes his choice from this group for Best of Breed. If his selection is amale for Best of Breed, the judge then selects a bitch for Best of Opposite

Sex. If the Winners Dog or Winners Bitch is not selected as Best of Breed,the judge then selects either the dog or thebitch as Best of Winners. This same proceduretakes place in every breed entered in the show.

Thus, if there were ten different Hound breedsentered, there would be ten Best of Breed win-ners. These ten would then be called back intothe ring to be judged against each other, to

decide which dog is the one best qualified torepresent all of the Hounds. The one placedfirst, as in the other six breed groups, becomeseligible to enter the finals for that highest ofdog show competition, Best In Show.

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If you wish to enter a dog show, checkwith one of the national dog magazines,AKC web site (www.akc.org), DCA web

site (www.dachshund-dca.org) or DCANewsletter for the list of upcomingshows. This list will give the dates of theshows, the superintendent, one or more of the club officers and theiraddress. You then write for entry blanks and premium lists, which haveall the pertinent information on judges and prizes offered at the shows.Lists are distributed six weeks ahead of the show date and entries closedthree weeks prior to the show. Fix to six days before the show you willreceive a receipt for your entry, which will serve as identification which

you must present for you and your dog to enter the show. If the show isbenched, stalls will be provided in which the dog(s) must be kept dur-ing show hours. Your identification will show your stall number and thedeadline hour for getting your dog into the show. If the show inunbenched, the dog(s) may be kept with you anywhere on the show-grounds (there may be specific Club instructions). Your identification

slip may tell you that you may leave as soon as you are not needed anylonger.

The AKC recognizes 153 breeds, which are divided into seven groups.They are classified, more or less, by the kind of work the dogs wereintended to perform. In addition, there is a Miscellaneous Classificationfor breeds known to be purebred but which are so rare in the United

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Tracking Obedience

Rally

Agility Earthdog

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States that no place for them has been made in the stud book. As thebreeds become more popular, the AKC may assign them to a regularclass.

BREED AND VARIETY PHOTO SECTIONMiniature - Longhair

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Longhair- black andtan - miniature

Longhair - red - miniature Longhair - chocolate and tan -Dapple

Longhair Dapples -chocolate and tan left/right)

black and tan (middle)

Longhair - Sable(Note: looks black and tan but when the hair is part-

ed, base of hair shaft coloration proves this is sable)

Longhair - Brindle

Longhair (and a wire) -Cream


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Smooth - Miniature -Black and Tan Dapple

Recessive Longhair

Standard - Longhair

Miniature - Smooth

Longhair - clear red and redswith dark overlay

Longhair -Black and Tan

Longhair -Clear Red

Longhairs -Adults and Pups

Smooth - Miniature -Chocolate and Tan

Smooth Miniature -Brindle


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Miniature - Smooth

Miniature -Chocolate and Tan Dapple

Standard - Smooth

Black and Tan

Standard Smoothheadpiece

Red (adolescent)

Black and Tan(Adult)

Miniature - Wire

Miniature - Wire - Red

Miniature - Wire - WheatenMiniature - Wire -

Black and Tan


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Miniature - Wire -Black and Tan

Standard - Wire

Standard - Wire -Wild Boar

Smooth and Wire puppies playing

Standard - Wire -Wild Boar

Wire - Pups

Wire puppies hunting Standard - Wire - Wild Boar


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Thank You

DCA wishes to thank members and others who contributed to thisbooklet:

DCA members and DCAWeb Site breed photo contributorsand Illustrated Standard drawings

DCSAV for show and performance photos


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Notes


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Notes

Documents

Dachshund Handbook