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SUSAN PFANNMULLER | SPECIAL TO THE STAR Interior designer Shawna Hampton of Modern Haven Interiors hung draperies in her master bedroom 8 inches above the window to accentuate the nearly 9-foot ceilings. Her cat, Jax, leans against the 96-inch-tall draperies from Target. "Sometimes you have to go online for the taller ones," she says. HANG-UPS: Tackle these projects with confidence HANGING DRAPERIES Nothing stops an eye like curtains hung too low, which makes a room seem shorter. Shawna Hampton of Modern Haven Interiors in Olathe says: In a room with average ceiling height, install hardware 3 to 4 inches above the top window trim. Hang hardware 5 inches or higher above the window if you have high ceilings. Floor-length store-bought drapery starts at 84 inches and can go up to 108 inches or more. Take into account where you want the foot of your drapery to land — either gracefully “knuckling” at the floor for a traditional look or stopping at the floor for a modern feel. If you’re using clip rings, consider the extra length they might add. MEASURING FOR WINDOW TREATMENTS For ready-made treatments: Measure the height and width of your window in three separate places: top, middle and bottom for width and at each third for height. If any of the measurements is different, use the smallest one for width and the largest for height to make sure the treatment fits appropriately. This is vital for inside mount treatments, such as blinds and shades. If you have multiple windows that appear to be the same size, you should still measure them individually. For custom draperies: Measure the width of the entire window, including any trim (in three places). Measure the height from the top of the window trim to the bottom of the apron under the sill (in three places). Measure the height from floor to top of window trim for floor-length draperies. Measure outside of the window trim to side obstructions (walls, doors, light switches) to determine how much stack-back — amount of drapery that overlaps the wall on each side of the window — to allow. HANGING CABINETS If you’re remodeling your kitchen yourself or want to re-use existing or salvaged kitchen cabinets elsewhere in your home, hang ing your own can save hundreds of dollars, Krista Williamson says. The owner of K2Workshops in Overland Park offers classes on home repair and remode ling. Hanging cabinets is a two-person job, so instructor Julie Lozano (in navy) assisted Williamson in this demonstration. Prep the area first by patching imperfections and priming and painting the walls. Remove cabinet doors, drawers and shelves to reduce weight and allow easy access for mounting. Mark each cabinet door and drawer so you’ll know what goes where. Measure 1. To mark the location of your upper cabinets, determine where your lower cabinets will be. If you think your floor is uneven, find the high spot on the floor. Measure the height of your lower cabinets and mark that spot from the high spot. Measure up 54 inches from the high spot for the bottom of your upper cabinets. You may need to measure higher for shorter cabinets. 2. Create level pencil or chalk lines through those two marks (a laser level or 4-foot level works best). 3. Using a stud finder, mark your studs along the top line. If you don’t have that tool, look for visual clues of nails or screws 16 inches apart. Hang the cabinets 1. Attach a 1-by-4 to the wall where you’ve marked your studs, matching the top of the board to the line. 2. Start in a corner or wherever is most logical. With a helper, lift the first cabinet into place, resting it on the 1-by-4. Drill holes in the cabinet at the studs, and using 3-inch or longer screws, attach the cabinet to the wall at the top. If there is a hanging rail (a thicker material at the top inside), attach the cabinet through it. If not, attach the cabinet through the back of the box at the top. 3. Use a level vertically to verify that the cabinet face is plumb. If not, shim by using spacers at top or bottom, and install the remaining hanging screws. 4. Lift the next cabinet into position beside the first on the 1-by-4. Use hand clamps to clamp the two cabinets’ face frames together. Repeat the mounting procedure for the cabinet. Then drill pilot holes through one side of the face frame, and screw the two cabinet frames together for a tight fit. 5. Remove the 1-by-4, and fill the holes with spackle. Reinstall your doors and shelves. Caulk or use molding to cover any open joints between the cabinets and walls. For instructions on installing lower cabinets, which should always be done after hanging the upper cabinets, go to KansasCity.com/home. HANGING ART More of us are downsizing, which leaves less wall space for art. Another challenge is that many of us don’t have one piece large enough to dominate an entire wall. The solution: salon-style art hanging, a floor-to-ceiling collage. In French, “salon” refers to a gathering place for an exchange of ideas. Designer Jonathan Adler says he loves the salon solution because it gives presence to petite pieces. But the look can go hodgepodge in a hurry. “Anchoring a wall with three larger pieces is a great strategy,” Adler says. Professional art consultant and installer Jackie Warren of Kansas City agrees. “Then you can build on a collection and add to it over the years,” says Warren, owner of Artistic Solutions. Adler has salon-style art tips in his book “Jonathan Adler on Happy Chic Accessorizing” (Sterling Innovation, $17.95). “Think of the ensemble as one big artwork.” Composition: Start at the center and work outward, leaving roughly even spacing between pieces. The more disparate the artworks, the better. Balance size and frame weight, alternating big and small, vertical and horizontal, to create rhythm and balance. Placement: Go floor to ceiling, or group objects loosely in the center of the wall. Just beware of hanging too low (where pets and young children might jostle it) or right above a sofa (where anyone could disturb the arrangement). Integration: Rather than stress about navigating art around your decor, incorporate furnishings and include lampshades and even TVs into the arrangement (this “hides” the flat screen by surrounding it with canvases). BEFORE YOU NAIL IT Map it. Art-installation consultant Jackie Warren’s favorite planning method is to lay everything out on the floor. It’s much easier than cutting out paper templates and taping them to the wall. Move things around until you settle on the most pleasing layout. Measure for art. Measure 60 inches up from the floor to the center of the first piece you hang. If you have low ceilings, that number can go down to 58 inches. Avoid hanging anything too high, which looks awkward and brings the room down with it. Handy hardware . When it comes to picture hangers and nails, the ones you find at the hardware store work fine; just buy according to the weight of the framed piece. With plaster walls, Warren uses painters tape, making a small crisscross where the nail and picture hanger will go to prevent cracking. And she pre-drills into the tape, using a tiny bit. Ceramic pieces are typically pre-drilled so a professional art framer can wire it; then screws or a picture hanger will work. When it comes to hanging groups of art at the same height, it’s important to have a level. “Make sure to measure each individual work of art, because the picture wire on the back is installed at different heights,” Warren says. Go easy on the nails. Homeowners are asking for track systems (about $200 for a 12-foot track) with adjustable cables and hooks, Warren says. They are common in RESOURCES Artistic Solutions (art consultant Jackie Warren): 913-269-7624, jackie4art.com K2Workshops (home repair and remodeling classes): 913-439-1581, k2workshops.org Modern Haven Interiors (interior designer Shawna Hampton): 913-912-3395, modernhaveninteriors.com Westport Glass and Mirror: 625 Southwest Blvd., Kansas City, Kan., 913-671-8847, westportglass.com Jackie Warren of Artistic Solutions advises arranging art on the floor before hanging it on the wall. SHANE KEYSER | THE KANSAS CITY STAR Linda Adams Naftel of Overland Park hung figures and andscapes salon style in her stairwell. Art consultant Jackie Warren helped her. When you're determining the length of the drapery rod you'll need, consider the stack back. The stack back is 7 inches out from the 60-inch window. Stack back typically ranges from 10 to 25 percent. "The bigger the stackback, the more formal the look," Hampton says. Because Hampton also bought sheers for inside the window, she bought brackets that hang two drapery rods. ALLISON LONG | THE KANSAS CITY STAR LABEL A+E LABEL A+E LABEL A+E D4 SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2012 WWW.KANSASCITY.COM THE KANSAS CITY STAR.

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SUSAN PFANNMULLER | SPECIAL TO THE STAR

Interior designer Shawna Hampton ofModern Haven Interiors hung draperies inher master bedroom 8 inches above thewindow to accentuate the nearly 9-footceilings. Her cat, Jax, leans against the96-inch-tall draperies from Target."Sometimes you have to go online for thetaller ones," she says.

HANG-UPS: Tackle these projects with con�dence

HANGING DRAPERIESNothing stops an eye like curtains hung too low,which makes a room seem shorter. Shawna Hamptonof Modern Haven Interiors in Olathe says:

In a room with average ceiling height, installhardware 3 to 4 inches above the top window trim.

Hang hardware 5 inches or higher above thewindow if you have high ceilings.

Floor-length store-bought drapery starts at 84inches and can go up to 108 inches or more. Take intoaccount where you want the foot of your drapery toland — either gracefully “knuckling” at the �oor for atraditional look or stopping at the �oor for a modernfeel.

If you’re using clip rings, consider the extra lengththey might add.

MEASURING FOR WINDOWTREATMENTSFor ready-made treatments:

Measure the height and width of your window inthree separate places: top, middle and bottom forwidth and at each third for height. If any of themeasurements is di�erent, use the smallest one forwidth and the largest for height to make sure thetreatment �ts appropriately. This is vital for insidemount treatments, such as blinds and shades.

If you have multiple windows that appear to be thesame size, you should still measure them individually.For custom draperies:

Measure the width of the entire window, includingany trim (in three places).

Measure the height from the top of the window trimto the bottom of the apron under the sill (in threeplaces). Measure the height from �oor to top ofwindow trim for �oor-length draperies.

Measure outside of the window trim to sideobstructions (walls, doors, light switches) todetermine how much stack-back — amount ofdrapery that overlaps the wall on each side of thewindow — to allow.

HANGING CABINETSIf you’re remodeling your kitchen yourself or want to re-use existing or salvaged kitchen cabinets elsewhere in your home, hang ing your own can savehundreds of dollars, Krista Williamson says. The owner of K2Workshops in Overland Park o�ers classes on home repair and remode ling. Hanging cabinetsis a two-person job, so instructor Julie Lozano (in navy) assisted Williamson in this demonstration.Prep the area �rst by patching imperfections and priming and painting the walls. Remove cabinet doors, drawers and shelves to reduce weight and alloweasy access for mounting. Mark each cabinet door and drawer so you’ll know what goes where.

Measure

1. To mark the location of your uppercabinets, determine where your lowercabinets will be. If you think your �oor isuneven, �nd the high spot on the �oor.Measure the height of your lowercabinets and mark that spot from thehigh spot. Measure up 54 inches from thehigh spot for the bottom of your uppercabinets. You may need to measurehigher for shorter cabinets.

2. Create level pencil or chalk linesthrough those two marks (a laser level or4-foot level works best).

3. Using a stud �nder, mark your studsalong the top line. If you don’t have thattool, look for visual clues of nails orscrews 16 inches apart.

Hang the cabinets

1. Attach a 1-by-4 to the wall where you’ve marked yourstuds, matching the top of the board to the line.

2. Start in a corner or wherever is mostlogical. With a helper, lift the �rst cabinetinto place, resting it on the 1-by-4. Drillholes in the cabinet at the studs, andusing 3-inch or longer screws, attach thecabinet to the wall at the top. If there is ahanging rail (a thicker material at the topinside), attach the cabinet through it. Ifnot, attach the cabinet through the backof the box at the top.

3. Use a level vertically to verifythat the cabinet face is plumb. Ifnot, shim by using spacers at topor bottom, and install theremaining hanging screws.

4. Lift the next cabinet into position beside the �rst on the 1-by-4.Use hand clamps to clamp the two cabinets’ face frames together.Repeat the mounting procedure for the cabinet. Then drill pilotholes through one side of the face frame, and screw the twocabinet frames together for a tight �t.

5. Remove the 1-by-4,and �ll the holes withspackle. Reinstall yourdoors and shelves. Caulkor use molding to coverany open joints betweenthe cabinets and walls.

For instructions oninstalling lowercabinets, which shouldalways be done afterhanging the uppercabinets, go toKansasCity.com/home.

HANGING ARTMore of us are downsizing, whichleaves less wall space for art. Anotherchallenge is that many of us don’thave one piece large enough todominate an entire wall. The solution:salon-style art hanging, a�oor-to-ceiling collage. In French,“salon” refers to a gathering place foran exchange of ideas.Designer Jonathan Adler says he lovesthe salon solution because it givespresence to petite pieces. But the lookcan go hodgepodge in a hurry.“Anchoring a wall with three largerpieces is a great strategy,” Adler says.Professional art consultant andinstaller Jackie Warren of Kansas Cityagrees.“Then you can build on a collectionand add to it over the years,” saysWarren, owner of Artistic Solutions. Adler has salon-style art tips in hisbook “Jonathan Adler on Happy Chic

Accessorizing” (Sterling Innovation,$17.95). “Think of the ensemble as onebig artwork.”

Composition: Start at the center andwork outward, leaving roughly evenspacing between pieces. The moredisparate the artworks, the better.Balance size and frame weight,alternating big and small, vertical andhorizontal, to create rhythm and balance.

Placement: Go �oor to ceiling, or groupobjects loosely in the center of the wall.Just beware of hanging too low (wherepets and young children might jostle it)or right above a sofa (where anyonecould disturb the arrangement).

Integration: Rather than stress aboutnavigating art around your decor,incorporate furnishings and includelampshades and even TVs into thearrangement (this “hides” the �at screenby surrounding it with canvases). BEFORE YOU NAIL IT

Map it. Art-installation consultant Jackie Warren’sfavorite planning method is to lay everything out on the�oor. It’s much easier than cutting out paper templatesand taping them to the wall. Move things around untilyou settle on the most pleasing layout.

Measure for art. Measure 60 inches up from the �oor tothe center of the �rst piece you hang. If you have lowceilings, that number can go down to 58 inches. Avoidhanging anything too high, which looks awkward andbrings the room down with it.

Handy hardware . When it comes to picture hangersand nails, the ones you �nd at the hardware store work�ne; just buy according to the weight of the framedpiece. With plaster walls, Warren uses painters tape,making a small crisscross where the nail and picturehanger will go to prevent cracking. And she pre-drillsinto the tape, using a tiny bit. Ceramic pieces aretypically pre-drilled so a professional art framer can wireit; then screws or a picture hanger will work. When it comes to hanging groups of art at the sameheight, it’s important to have a level. “Make sure tomeasure each individual work of art, because thepicture wire on the back is installed at di�erent heights,”Warren says.

Go easy on the nails. Homeowners are asking for tracksystems (about $200 for a 12-foot track) with adjustablecables and hooks, Warren says. They are common in

RESOURCESArtistic Solutions (art consultant Jackie Warren):

913-269-7624, jackie4art.comK2Workshops (home repair and remodeling classes):

913-439-1581, k2workshops.org

Modern Haven Interiors (interior designer ShawnaHampton): 913-912-3395, modernhaveninteriors.com

Westport Glass and Mirror: 625 Southwest Blvd.,Kansas City, Kan., 913-671-8847, westportglass.com

Jackie Warren of Artistic Solutions advisesarranging art on the �oor before hanging it onthe wall.

SHANE KEYSER | THE KANSAS CITY STAR

Linda Adams Naftel of Overland Park hung �gures and andscapessalon style in her stairwell. Art consultant Jackie Warren helped her.

When you're determining the length of thedrapery rod you'll need, consider the stackback. The stack back is 7 inches out from the60-inch window. Stack back typically rangesfrom 10 to 25 percent. "The bigger thestackback, the more formal the look,"Hampton says. Because Hampton alsobought sheers for inside the window, shebought brackets that hang two drapery rods.

ALLISON LONG | THE KANSAS CITY STAR

LABEL A+E LABEL A+E

LABEL A+E

D4 SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2012 WWW.KANSASCITY.COMTHE KANSAS CITY STAR.