Cutting Technology FINAL

7/29/2019 Cutting Technology FINAL

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CUTTING TECHNOLOGY

UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF:MS. SHARMILA SURE

SUBMITTED BY:NEERAJ KUMAR

NEHA PANDEY

NOOPUR SINGH

PULKIT MISHRA


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INTRODUCTION

Cutting production consists of all the processing activities involvedin reducing bulk materials and bolts of fabrics and trimmings usedin apparel products into component parts that make up the product.

The major categories of cutting production process are:marker making

spreading

cutting

positioning

marking

shading

sloping

bundling


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REQUIREMENTS OF CUTTING

TECHNOLOGY

Precision of cut

Clean edges

Unsorched, un-fused edges

Support of the lay

Consistent cutting


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IMPORTANCE OF CUTTING

As a unit, cutting has a greater effect on excessive manufacturing

cost than any other department concerned with the actual

production of garments.

Basically there are two types of costs incurred by cutting department

that adds to its importance in the production process:

Internal costs

External costs


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CUTTING TECHNOLOGY IN

GARMENT INDUSTRY

Cutting is the preproduction process of separating (sectioning,carving, severing) a spread into garment parts that are the precisesize and shape of the pattern pieces on the marker.

Objective: To separate fabric parts as the replicas of pattern piecesin the marker plan.


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TYPES OF CUTTING

Fully manual: Manually operated power knife:

Hand operated scissor Straight knife Band knife

Round knife

Die cutting

Notcher

Drill


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Computerized methods of fabriccutting:

Computer controlled knifecutting

Cutting by Laser beam

Cutting by Water jet

Cutting by Plasma torch


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CUTTING MACHINES

From the standpoint of cutting stroke action, there are two basictypes of cutting machines:

Cutting machines

intermittentcutting machines

Continuous cuttingmachine


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Continuous cutting equipment:

It has no negative trust in the blade action, that is, every movement

of the blade cuts the fabric.

Examples of continuous cutting equipments are

Vertical blade reciprocating machine

Rotary blade cutting machine

Band knife machine.


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Intermittent cutting machines:

In intermittent cutting equipment, the tools or machine has two

actions; the positive action is the machine movement which actuatesthe blade for cutting and the negative action is the one whichreleases the blade in order to reposition the blade for next cutting.

Examples of intermittent cutting machines are:

Diecutters

Shears

Notchers Drills


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Vertical stroke cutting machine

Vertical stroke cutting machines is of two types:

Vertical reciprocating

cutting machine

Inside SlasherStraight knife cutting

machine


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Straight knife cutting machine

Linkage system: Machine base plate

The blade housing

The power system : motor, switch and outlet

Blade drive

Cutting blade

Blade sharpening device

Operating handle Blade guard

Blade cooling system(optional)


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Features Types

Length of straight knife 4,5,6,81012

Blade shapes(Geometric designs) Straight edgeSaw toothed edgeSerrated edge

Wave edge

Motor rpm 1750 to 3500 rpm

Vertical cutting stroke velocity 2 X straight knife motor rpm X

blade stroke

Blade cooling fluids Non staining oilsWater with rust inhibitors


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Principle

The cutting blade is reciprocated vertically in the blade housing. Theblade housing is anchored in the base plate and supports the motor,operating handle and sharpeners. The machine makes only lateralcuts.

The blade stroke length, that is, the vertical displacement of theblade during reciprocation depends upon:

The blade shape

The type of blade edge

The blade composition

Vertical cutting stroke velocity

Horizontal cutting stroke velocity

Straight knife blades


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Limitations

1. Deflection of the blade:The vertical knife may curve as it is pushed against many plies in thefabric. If the blade is curved, it is not at the desired 90 degree angleto the spread and pieces in the same stack vary in size as a result.

Quality check and blade guard is used in order to overcome this

disadvantage.

2. Blade heat:

Friction arises as the result of the blade heat which in turn arisesdue the blade moving against the fabric plies. Friction and heat

causes the superimposed plies to fuse with each other.Blade cooling systems provided overcome this disadvantage to agreater extent.


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BRANDS

Eastman(bluestreak)

Wolf Pacer

KM

Loin king Maimin

Linz Zest

Yamata


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Brand : Eastman(bluestreak)

Cost : $650

Brand :Wolf Pacer

Cost : 1,104.91


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Brand : KM

Cost : 390.00

Brand : Loin king

Cost : 450.00


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Brand : Maimin

Cost : $650

Brand : Linz Zest

Cost : $600


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Brand :Yamata

Cost :$300.42


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Inside Slasher Straight knife machine cut laterally onto the spread and therefore

cannot be used for the areas from the center of the garment parts.

To remove a section of fabric without cutting the area, a slasher isrequired which is the adapted version of vertical knife and cuts thespread from above much the same as a jigsaw cutting round thesection of fabric to be removed.


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Principle

A slasher has no vertical blade housing in which the bladeoscillates, so the machine resembles a jigsaw. It permits the cutterto cut the spread vertically.

The ability of the slasher to enter a spread vertically enables thecutter to cut islands(such as double darts) out of the spreadwithout making a cut across the fabric to the island area.


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Rotary cutting machine

Rotary cutting machine or round knifecutting machines have same linkage asthat of the straight knife cuttingmachine.

The basic difference lies in terms of:

Blade shape(circular)

Blade thrust(one-way)


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Principle

The rotary circular machine has a whose edge rotates counterclockwise into the super imposed plies as the machine is propelledlaterally into the spread. This cuts the fabric in one way thrust of theblade edge.

The cutting capacity of the rotary machine is governed by: Knife diameter

Motor horse power

Motor speed


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Features Types

Length of round knife 2 , 3,3 ,4 ,5 ,5, 6, 7,

8and 12

Blade shapes(Geometric designs) CircularWaved

Obtuse angle parameterToothed

Motor rpm 1000 to 3500 rpm

Vertical cutting stroke

velocity(rotary)

Motor rpm X blade diameter

Motor horse power 1/6,1/4,1/3 H.P

Cutting pitch 90 degree


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Limitations

The cut able height is max, hence only limited number of pliescan be cut using round knife.

They do not cut into sharp concave curve with accuracy of thevertical blade.


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BRANDS

Eastman Cardinal Round Knife (Rotary)

Wolf Blazer Round Knife

KM Maimin round knife

Consew 515E Cloth Cutting Machine

JM-100


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Brand : Eastman (Rotary)

Cost : $650

Brand : Wolf Blazer

Cost : $450


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Brand : KM

Cost : $395

Brand : Maimin

Cost : $749


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Brand: Consew Brand: JM-100


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Band-knife machine

Band knife machines are used when higher standards of accuracyare required(such as in block cutting) that can be obtained with thestraight knife.

These machines are mounted permanently from a housing so that

they are suspended at 90 degree angle a work surface of 2 or 3square feet.


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Principle

The blade of band knife circulates in the basic shapes of thestandard conveyor band: two equal parallel lines whose parallelends are joined by semicircles.

The principle of operation is different from the straight knife in thatthe band knife passes trough the slot in the cutting table in fixedposition and the section of lay to be cut is moved passed it.


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Features Types

Size of table top 1200 X 1600mm, 1500 X1800mm, 1500 X 2400mm

Diameter of the wheel 700mm-1200mm

Size of band knife 0.45 X 10 X 3500mm-0.45 X 10 X4450mm

Air blowing motor 180 W(approx.)

Cutting pitch 90 degree

Vertical stroke cutting velocity VCSV =motor rpmor =circumference of the blade

X motor rpmor =velocity of the point at the

perimeter of the drive pulley


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Limitation

The turning of the black on the blade disrupts the super imposedplies, hence the use of vacuum tables is must in case of band knife

Band knife unlike straight or round knife is not portable.


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BRANDS

Anysew

BK

Cosmotex CZD series

Super silent

Sanyu


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Brand :Anysew

Cost : $1475

Brand : BK

Cost : $1300


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Brand : cosmotex

cost : $1525

Brand : supersilentcost : $1200


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Brand : CZD series

cost : $1260

Brand : Sanyu series

Cost : $1530


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Die cutters: Clickers and Pressers

Die cutting is used for cutting intricate patterns with peak precision.

Dies are pre shaped metal outline with one cutting edge.

There are two types of die cutters

Die cutters

PressersClickers


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All die cutting machines have following parts:

The machine frame

The cutting bed or table clock

The ram head

The die

The motor The ram dive system

The ram head height adjuster

The difference lies in the ram drive system.


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Principle :

On engaging the machine, the ram head moves into the place above

the die, applies tons of pressure to the die, releases and return toposition. The cutting action is vertical as the ram presses the die into

the surface of the fabric.


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The precision of die cutting is decreased if

Cutting ram and surfaces are parallel

The die walls are not perpendicular to these surfaces.

The die walls are too thick

The spread section is not leveled on the cutting bed The cutting bed and ram surfaces are not level.

The die cutting edge is dull, nipped or chipped


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BRANDS

Herman Schwabe Swing Arm Die Cuttercost: $2,000


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Drills

Cutting drills are used to place precise guide marks on the surfacesof the superimposed plies.

Cutting drills

Hypodermic drillAwl drill


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Awl drill: It has a solid needle whosefunction is to cut a hole in the cut parts

for the sewing operator to identify.

Hypodermic drill: It has hollow needleswhich contain marking fluid and markthe fabric with fluid as the needle is

withdrawn.


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Principle:

The base is placed on the spread; the motor is started and itrotates the needle.

The rotating needle is pressed down by the cutter.


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BRANDS

Eastman # CD3 Cloth Drill

cost : $250


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Notchers

A notcher is a hand-held devicewith a vertical electrical elementthat scorches the fabric at thepoint of contact.

Temperature and notch depth areadjustable dependable on thefabric


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It is used to mark notches on the natural fibre and knits as themarks are clearly visible.

It is not a good choice for the thermoplastic fibers as it melts the

plies together.


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BRANDS

Eastman # HVN Hot Notcher 110 volt

Cost : $300


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Servo cutters

The bridge between computer controlled and manual cutting is theservo-cutting system.


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This types of system has an overhead

servo motor with adjustable speed and asuspension system that supports theknife perpendicular to the table.

This reduces the problem with tilting the

blade and in accurate cutting.

It combine vertical and band knifecutting into one.


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MODERN CUTTING

EQUIPMENTS


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COMPUTER CONTROLLED CUTTING

The input for this operation comes from the marker generated oncomputerized marker planning systems.

The computerized data is transferred to the cutting unit by tapes,floppy discs and directly from the marker planning system.


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Advantages

8 times faster than manual cutting.

More accurate.

Most effective investment for large scale industry.


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LASER CUTTING

A laser produces a beam of lightthat can be focused into a verysmall spot(0.25 mm) producing avery high energy density andrapid localized increase intemperature.

Cutting takes place by burning,melting and vaporization.


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Limitations

Scorching of edges takes place.

Thermoplastic fibre melts and hence it is not suitable.

Cannot cut thick plies.


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PLASMA CUTTING

Cutting is achieved bymeans of high velocity jetof high temperatureionized argon gas.

There is no need ofsharpening.


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Limitations

Scorching of edges takes place.

Thermoplastic fibre melts and hence it is not suitable.

Limit depth of focus


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WATER JET CUTTING

A very high velocity, small diameterstream of water is created byapplying high pressure to the nozzle.

The high pressure jet acts as a solidtool when it encounters the materialto be cut, tearing the fibres apart.


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Limitations

Only used for sample/single ply cutting.

only pure water can be used.


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ULTRASONIC CUTTING

Vibration frequency in the 20KHz rangeproduces 1/20mm movement in theblade.

Limitation

The ultrasonic cutting uses disposableknife blade, hence is expensive.

Only a single ply can be cut. Low vacuum is needed.


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OSHIMA Band knife machine with air

blowing

Variable speed control of the blade facilitates the cutting of diversefabrics. The blowing from table top makes the airspace undercutting fabric what facilitates the manoeuvring of it.

Oshima band knife is equipped with the special detector(responsible for the work of band knife blade) and with the bandknife security system BSS (protects band knife blade from escapefrom the course).


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Specification: Table size: 1500 mm x 1800 mm.

Gap between the blade and carrier arm is 900 mm

Cutting capacity maximum: 180 mm

Dimension of the band knife blade: 3860 x 10 x 0,45 mm

Voltage: 230V


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CUTTING TECHNOLOGY FORDIFFERENT FABRICS

Computerized panel cutting machine: for cutting mattressmaterials

Transmission material

Knife

Motor

Circuit control operation

Low noise high quality infra red control system

Speed of cuttin:5m/minPower: 1.5kw

Slittering:160 to 2500mm
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/51964596/Computerized_Panel_Cutting_Machine/showimage.htmlhttp://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/51964596/Computerized_Panel_Cutting_Machine/showimage.html


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Bundle cutting and leather slitting machine:Machine head cutter

Guide rail

Moving sets

Maximum width of slitting rolls:1200mmMachine head driving speed:60rpm
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/50454596/Bundle_Cutting_Machine_bundle_slitting_machine/showimage.html


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Bias cutting and winding machine:

It can roll up straight stripe or diagonal stripe material and cutit into bias strips used in leather, shoes, suitcases, garmentsand bags industry.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/226746616/MX_170B_bias_cutting_winding_machine/showimage.html


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Automatic bag cutting machine:

Used to cutting straight and 45degree diagonal straps in widthsof woven fabrics, adhesive bonded fabric, foam, cladding, paperand reflector-ized materials.
http://mxjx.en.alibaba.com/productshowimg/227160706-200827051/MX_170Z_automatic_strip_cutting_machine.html


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Trimming machine:type of cloth cutting machine

Maximum size for sawing: 3500*60mm
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/50517994/Trimming_Machine/showimage.html


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Automatic knitting fabric binding machine:

cross cuts knitted fabric into piping strips.

Binding width: 15-130mm

Cutting speed: 25000mm/min


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CUTTING MACHINES USED FOR

DIFFERENT FABRICS


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FABRIC MACHINE USED

knitted Die cutters/

straight knife

woven Continuous fringe cutter/straight knife cutter

Non-woven Laser cutting/

Straight knife


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FABRIC TYPE MACHINE USED

cotton Straight knife/round knife

Denim Straight knife/round knife

Corduroy Straight knife (nap fabric)/die cutters

Silk/synthetic

/chiffon

Straight knife/round knife

Leather/

rubber

Straight knife/round knife


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Woven fabrics

Passed against two scissor-shapedcutters which, through suitable linkage,are actuated by the lay at the end of itstravel in beating up a pick.

These cutters cut the fabric between thetwo pairs of leno ends at each edge,removing a ragged fringe.

To maintain the cutters close to the innerpair of leno ends at each edge, the fabricedge contacts a vertical guide which withthe cutters can move a small distanceparallel to the wefts.


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Knitted fabrics

A device for cutting fabric has a pinningframe placed on a support of a presshaving a head relatively movable towardand away from the support.

A die is then forced through the fabricand both apertures by relative movementof the head toward the support to cut thematerial against the support of the press.

Drills and notchers should not be used inknitted areas as they create runs in theexposed finished garments.


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QUALITY CONSIDERATION IN

CUTTINGKnife cutting

Maintaining accuracy is difficult when cutting pieces with verysharp and acute angles, multiple changes in curves or very small

pattern pieces. The size of the knife blade and the weight of the cutting tool also

restrict the accuracy of the cut parts.

Cutting operator errors too need to be controlled.


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Computer controlled cutting

The machine are normally placed at the end of the table and thusdistortion of the plies during movement of spread can occur.

The cutting though is excellent but in case of synthetic fibres , theedge of the cut pieces may be sharp because of the melting that may

occur with laser or high speed cutting.


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Die cutting

A main quality benefit of die cutting is the precision of the cut partsthat results from the die.

Also quickness of cut even for very complex cuts or cuts withextreme or exaggerated shapes is a quality benefit.


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SPACE MANAGEMENT FORCUTTING PRODUCTION

Die cutting and band knife work cutting stations should containdefinite spaces for:

1. Stacking uncut blocks (tiered racks)

2. Stacking cut blocks

3. Receptacle for cut scraps

4. Storing the die between cuts

Portable cutting stations should have :

1. Spaces on tables to dispose the scrap temporarily

2. Scrap bins on casters


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CUT PLAN

CUTPLAN optimizes cutting orders to utilize the least amount offabric, maximize cutting heights, minimize the number of bundles,and create the fewest new markers/nests. CUTPLAN handlesvirtually every cutting scenario:

1. fabric and accessory markers

2. single and multiple colors

3. small and large quantity cut orders

4. face-to-face, open-only, mixed, and tubular goods

5. small markers only (1-4 sizes, 1-2, etc)6. separates markers (coat/pant mixing)


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CUT PLANNING

END BITS CUT PARTS BUNDELED PARTS


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CUTTING TABLE WITH SERVO ASSISTEDSTRAIGHT KNIFE

CUTTING TABLE

BANDKNIFE-

1

BANDKNIFE-

2

BUNDLING&

TICKETING

BUNDLING

&TICKETING

DRILLI

NG

&

NOTCH

ING

DRIL

LING

&

NOTC

HING

ENTER EXIT

END BITS CUT PARTS BUNDELED PARTS


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BIBLIOGRAPHY

Apparel manufacturing by Glock and Kuntz

Apparel manufacturing handbook by Jacob Solinger

Introduction to clothing technology by Cooklin

www.alibaba.com

www.imsmachines.com

www.sewingmachinery.com

www.tradeindia.com

www.advancedsewing.com www.advance-enterprises.co.uk
http://www.advance-enterprises.co.uk/http://www.advance-enterprises.co.uk/http://www.advance-enterprises.co.uk/http://www.advance-enterprises.co.uk/


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THANK YOU

Documents

Cutting Technology FINAL