CRSU13

❤

23 SUMMERYstyles

Where’d you get that?

FUNCROCHETJEWELRY

love is in the air!MASTER THE love knotwith 8 projects

SUPER CUTECover-ups

Great GranniesTotally TunisianOur LA adventure

+InterweaveCrochet.com

from the publishers of Interweave Knits Summer 2013

®

FC_CRSU13_NOBC.indd 1 5/20/13 9:22 AM

The New Tunisian Crochet: Contemporary Designs for Time-Honored Traditions

Dora OhrensteinISBN: 978-1-59668-553-6

160 Pages, $24.95

N T i i C h t C t

Explore the NEW Tunisian Crochet with this collection of 30 Tunisian stitch patterns and 11 crochet projects.

for a Well-Loved, TraditionalCrochet Technique

MODERN STYLE

IFC_CRSU13.indd 2 5/9/13 5:04 PM

contents

On the cover:

Love Is a Rose Shawl, page 46. Photo by Matt Schodorf Photography

Interweave Crochet • Summer 2013volume VII number 2

Features10 Yarn Spotlight: Silk Is the Star

Marcy Smith

14 Fast & Fabulous: Ponytail Posies Brenda K. B. Anderson

16 Yarnover Truck: Yarn to Go Marcy Smith

32 Beyond the Basics: Crochet Amore Vashti Braha

58 Parenthook: All the Pretty Dresses Vickie Howell

72 Everyday Crochet: Single Crochet Kathryn Vercillo

ProjectsGrif�th Park18 Honeycomb Shawl

Kathy Merrick Instructions page 26

19 Mehndi Necklace Lori M. Carlson Instructions page 28

20 Ennis Shawl Vashti Braha Instructions page 22

20 Soleil Lariat Daniela Nii Instructions page 24

20 Solar Wrap Daniela Nii Instructions page 23

California Dreamin’40 Topanga Tunic

Dora Ohrenstein Instructions page 48

41 Zuma Skirt Doris Chan Instructions page 49

44 Sister Act Shawl and Shrug Vashti Braha Instructions page 51

46 Love Is a Rose Shawl Kathryn White Instructions page 53

47 Electra Wrap Vashti Braha Instructions page 53

Malibu Garden60 Hibiscus Tunic

Mimi Alelis Instructions page 66

62 Dahlia Shrug Jenny King Instructions page 68

63 Palm Tunic Cristina Mershon Instructions page 64

LA Times74 Ventura Vest

Robyn Chachula Instructions page 81

75 Arroyo Seco Top Theresa Schabes Instructions page 79

76 Meander Backpack Lisa Soutendijk Instructions page 88

76 Pop-Hop Sleeves Natasha Robarge Instructions page 84

78 Muse Tunic Hannah Cuviello Instructions page 85

Departments2 Strands

4 CrochetMe.com

6 In the Loop

7 Books

8 New & Notable

12 Back to Basics

92 Glossary

94 Project Designers

95 Sources for Supplies

96 Back Page

63 47 76

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2 Interweave Crochet • Summer 2013

strands

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Karin StromEDITOR Marcy Smith

MANAGING EDITOR Allison MackinASSISTANT EDITOR Sharon Zientara

PROJECT EDITOR Sarah ReadEDITORIAL ASSISTANT Kathy Mallo

TECHNICAL EDITORS Joan Beebe, Lindsay Glenn, Julie Armstrong Holetz, Marty Miller, Daniela Nii,

Elizabeth Sullivan, Carolyn VanOstran, Charles Voth, Lorna Wilkey

COPY EDITOR Laurel RobinsonCROCHET ME EDITOR Toni Rexroat

_______________

DESIGNER Kit KinsethPRODUCTION DESIGNER Lee Ann ShortPHOTOGRAPHY PROJECTS Matt Schodorf

DEPARTMENTS Sharon ZientaraPHOTOSTYLING Amy Pigliacampo

HAIR & MAKEUP Amanda Lyn JonesTECHNICAL ILLUSTRATION Joan Beebe,

Julie Armstrong Holetz, Karen Manthey, Daniela Nii, Annette Petavy, Elizabeth Sullivan, Charles Voth

_______________

ADVERTISING MANAGER Marcy BradfordMEDIA SALES TEAM LEADER, Diane Kocal

AD TRAFFICKERS Melissa Marie Brown, Kathy DepperschmidtCLASSIFIED ADVERTISING Stephanie Griess

MARKETING MANAGER, ECOMMERCE Annie Hartman Bakken

_______________

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online at interweavecrochet.com/corrections.asp.

Interweave Crochet does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in Interweave Crochet. Nor does Interweave Crochet evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertis-ers, products, services, and views advertised in Interweave Crochet.

Visit the Interweave Crochet website at interweavecrochet.com. For advertising information, call Diane Kocal at (317) 482-0120, email [email protected] or visit the website at interweavecrochet.com.For sales information, call (317) 482-0120, email [email protected] editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193, email [email protected], or write to 201 E. Fourth St., Loveland, CO 80537-5655.

Interweave Crochet Subscription ServicesEmail Address: [email protected]. & Canadian Customer Service: (888) 403-5986International Customer Service: (515) 237-3657Fax Number: (712) 733-1277Mail: PO Box 6338-1838, Harlan, IA 51537

Interweave Crochet® (ISSN 1937-0008) is published quarterly by Interweave, a division of F+W Media, Inc., 201 E. Fourth St., Loveland, CO 80537-5655. (970) 669-7672. USPS #025-111. Periodicals postage paid at Loveland, CO 80538 and additional mailing of�ces. All contents of this issue of Interweave Crochet are copyrighted by F+W Media, Inc., 2013. All rights reserved. Projects and informa-tion are for inspiration and personal use only. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher. Subscription rate is $26.95/one year in the U.S., $30.95/one year in Canada, and $33.95/one year in international countries (surface delivery) U.S. funds only.

POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Interweave Crochet, PO Box 6338-1838, Harlan, IA 51537.

Retailers: If you are interested in carrying this magazine in your store please call (866) 949-1646, email [email protected], or visit interweaveretailer.com

_______________

VISIT US ON THE WEB:

crochetme.com • interweave.com • fwmedia.com

Often in the Summer issue, I tell you a tale of woe about trying to shoot photos in sub-freezing temperatures while tromping through a foot of snow (uphill both ways and so forth). Not this year! �is year, we took ourselves to Los Angeles and Malibu for our photo shoot. California was a tad cool in January—but there was no snow!

We learned some things on this shoot. Here they are, in no particular order: • When �guring the time it takes to get from Point A to Point B anywhere in LA, map the route and

double the estimate. �en you’ll be only ten minutes late.• At the end of the day, take a break for yoga. (�anks, Namaste

Highland Park! www.namastehighlandpark.com)• �e Hollywood sign is farther away than you think. And if it’s foggy,

it won’t show up on �lm (but we really were within eyesight of it). • Watch out for rattlesnakes (the sign right there at Gri�th Park says so).• �e agave latte at Café de Leche (www.cafedeleche.net/CDL/main

.html) is divine.• Eight police cars all in a row, lights �ashing, have the right-of-way. Always.• It’s colder at the beach than you might think. Take along a wrap. (Or

two! See pages 46 and 47 for Kathryn White’s Love Is a Rose Shawl and Vashti Braha’s Electra Wrap.)

• When it’s time to pick up lunch, send two people: one to carry the sack of �sh tacos and the other to take a picture of Martin Sheen carrying out his sack of �sh tacos.

See for yourself the di�erence a climate makes! You’ll �nd fascinating “doodle” crochet garments in Gri�th Park (page 18), Bohemian designs in LA Times (page 74), lovely lacy layers in Malibu Garden (page 60), and an abundance of garments incorporating love knots in California Dreamin’ (page 40). Vashti Braha makes this ethereal stitch real for you in Beyond the Basics (page 32).

Best,

[email protected]

THANK YOU to Modern Malibu Garden (www.malibumodern garden.com) for use of its lovely grounds; to Pop-Hop Books & Print (www.thepophop .com) for its delightful window; and to Chris, Mac, and Sylvie (www.angelcitybuilders .com) for their quick engineer-ing and generous hospitality.

Summer 2013

®

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http://www.www.cafedeleche.net/CDL/main.html

mailto://[email protected]

Interweave Crochet • interweavecrochet.com 3

of InterweaveCrochet are on CD!

Your favorite issues

find Collection CDs at

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FOUNDER, CREATIVE DIRECTOR Linda Ligon

VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Jamie Bogner

VICE PRESIDENT, CONTENT Helen Gregory

VICE PRESIDENT, MEDIA SALES Julie MacDonald

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION Trish Faubion

DESIGN MANAGER Larissa Davis

ONLINE CIRCULATION SPECIALIST Jodi Smith

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F+W MEDIA, INC.

CHAIRMAN & CEO David Nussbaum

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER & CEO James Ogle

PRESIDENT Sara Domville

CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER Chad Phelps

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VICE PRESIDENT, COMMUNICATIONS Stacie Berger

ENJOY T HE EN T IR E FA MILY OF

IN T ERW E AV E FIBER M AGA ZINES:

Handwoven

Interweave Knits

Interweave Crochet

Knitscene

knit.wear

PieceWork

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SUBSCRIBERS: Have a question about your Interweave Crochet subscrip tion? We have the answer. Visit our website, email, call, or fax your question, and we’ll be happy to assist you. Go to interweavecrochet.com and click on Subscription Ser vices in the page footer for new subscrip tions, renewals, gift orders, and to change your address, pay your bill, and to submit subscription questions or concerns.

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Visit our website interweavecrochet.com

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discovering more online .com

CUSTOMIZE A CROCHET TUNIC, BLOUSE AND

PULLOVER:

4 FREE Crochet

Patterns for Women Plus

Shaping Guide

Find all this online at www.crochetme.com/content/crochetmemore.aspx

PLUSDOWNLOAD 4 FREE Patterns at .com

FEATURING: 4 Free Crochet Pat-terns for Women Plus Shaping Guide

crochet-a long Solar Wrap by Daniela Niifacebook www.facebook.com/CrochetMetwit terwww.twitter.com/#!/CrochetMepinterestwww.pinterest.com/crochetmedaily

Muse Tunic : Fin ish ing St raps

Pa lm Tunic : Mot i f Jo insEnnis Shawl: Tun is ian Ta l l St i tches

Ventura Vest : Body Lace Pat ternPop -Hop Sleeves: Layout and Join ing

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COTTON CLASSIC LITECosmo Jacketdesigned by Doris Chan

CROCHET Collection 2013Sign up for free weekly newsletter:

www.tahkistacycharles.com/iwcsu13

005_CRSU13.indd 5 5/9/13 11:20 AM


Readers share their feedback about recent issues of Interweave Crochet.

We want to hear from you! Send us photos of your finished Interweave Crochet projects and your comments, pro and con, about our articles and features. In each issue, we’ll share some of your letters and photos, and we’ll select one reader to win a year’s free subscription to Interweave Crochet.

Email your thoughts, comments, and photos to: [email protected] OR send them to us via snail mail:In the LoopInterweave Crochet201 E. 4th St.Loveland, CO 80537

Note: Letters may be edited for clarity and length.

LOVIN’ THIS SCARF!I made the Elvis 1973 Scarf by Karen Ratto-Whooley (Interweave Crochet Accessories, 2012) because I’m interested in all things Scandinavian (I was happy to see it in cro-chet!). I’ve always loved the look of tapestry crochet, but never really felt comfortable with it.

I found it helpful to drop one color forward and the other color backward when changing colors; it keeps the two yarns from getting all twisted. If you keep it consistent, you can actually set up a rhythm by the sec-ond or third time through each pattern row, letting you relax for the other repeats.

It’s nice and warm, since the carried strands make a slightly thicker fabric. I might make it again. . . . I really like how it came out.And I just want to say you have absolutely the best, most consistent mag out there! I rarely �nd errors in your patterns.

Sheila M.Westminster, Colorado

Sheila wrote to alert us to an error in the starting chain of the Elvis 1973 Scarf and then graciously shared a few words about how she made it. We get as irritated by errors as you do, so we try to avoid them. When we do have a correction, you’ll �nd it at www.crochetme.com/content/ corrections.aspx.

HAPPY GIRL!Here are some pictures of my Early Girl Dress by Lisa Naskrent from the Summer 2011 issue. As a knitter, I’m a big fan of the freedom crochet gives you, but also completely intimidated by having to �nd every stitch on the previous row as you go!

I started this project for my three-year-old daughter when we were on vacation in Florida last spring, and I must have taken the top front panel out six times. (In retro-spect, I blame lazy gauge swatching, get-ting used to crochet again, the challenges of working with bamboo, and pregnancy brain.) I �nally �gured it out, and the dress was done about a month later, just in time for a wedding we were supposed to go to.

It was a fun project to make, with plenty of stitch variation. I used bamboo, which gives the dress a nice drape and softness, perfect for �irty summer days! My daughter outgrew it quickly, but I look forward to her little sister wearing it in a couple of years.

Genevieve F.Copenhagen, Denmark

We admire your fortitude, Genevieve! Your daughter is just lovely and looks so pleased to be wearing this dress. I’ll bet her sister will be pleased as well! It’s so wonderful to crochet garments that can be enjoyed through the years.

CHAIN REACTIONI found out about the Chain Reaction Afghan Project from my sister who posted it on Pinterest. She does not crochet and commented that she loved this afghan and wished someone would make it for her. I got the eBook and started making the blocks.

What I enjoyed most was the variety of the blocks, I couldn’t wait to �nish one and begin a new one. I swapped three of the squares with ones from 200 Crochet Blocks by Jan Eaton (Interweave, 2004). For the border, I used #142 from Around the Corner Crochet Borders by Edie Eckman (Storey Publishing, 2010). I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice Solids & Twists.

I gave it to my sister for her birthday and it now resides on her living room sofa.

Debbie C.Charleston, Illinois

Debbie, your afghan—well, your sister’s afghan, actually—looks fabulous! The pattern for the Chain Reaction Afghan is available for free at www.crochetme .com/media/p/122447.aspx. You can �nd us on Pinterest at CrochetMe.

TRULY HOOKEDSOCK IT TO ’EM

I have experienced many a night feeling neglected as I watched my wife, Shelly, read your magazine, then apply her newfound knowl-edge to some crochet project. She always sensed when I was ap-proaching my limit, and responded with gifts of scarfs or caps, which I wear with pride and use to keep me warm through our chilly New Hampshire winters.

aBut recently I got to see just how talented she was when she took on a really challenging task for a crocheter: making socks.

Focused on making the “best gift ever” for her good friend and former college roommate, Jill, my wife went into her library and found the Winter 2011 edition of Interweave Crochet and took the advice shared in a feature article (“Cu�-Down Sock Recipe” by Karen Ratto-Whooley) about how to make socks. And just see what she made!

Great job, wife, and happy birthday, Jill (now the owner of a world-famous pair of socks).Marty, husband of Shelly D.Peterborough, New Hampshire

Well, Marty, that’s about the sweetest thing ever! As a result of your steadfast patience and admiration, we will be sending Shelly a year’s worth of Interweave Crochet. To avoid feel-ing neglected again, maybe you should learn to crochet, too!

Readers share in words and pictures their feedback about recent issues of Interweave Crochet.

06_CRSU13_Intheloop-b.indd 6 5/9/13 11:24 AM


books

INDIANA

In A Yarn Basket1907 S. Walnut St.Bloomington, IN 47401(812) [email protected]

Mass Ave Knit Shop862 Virginia Ave.Indianapolis, IN 46203(317) 638-1833www.massaveknitshoponline.com

INDIANA

Knitting Off Broadway1309 BroadwayFort Wayne, IN 46802 260-422-YARN (9276) [email protected]

The Weaver’s Loft 24647 Zimmer Rd.Guilford, IN 47022(812) [email protected]

KENTUCKY

Sophie’s Fine Yarn Shoppe10482 Shelbyville Rd.Louisville, KY 40223(502) [email protected]

OHIO

Fiberworks1350A N. Fairfield Rd.Beavercreek, OH 45432(937) 429-YARN (9276)[email protected]

A Yarn-Lovers Guide to the Knit & Crochet Show

From July 17-21 the Summer

Knit & Crochet Show will

take place in Indianapolis,

IN in conjunction with the

Crochet Guild of America

and The Knitting Guild As-

sociation Conferences. These

events will host classes,

exhibits, special events &

more. Be sure to visit these

crochet-friendly shops as you

travel to and from the show!

Advertisement

Lacework for Adventurous CrochetersMargaret Hubert, Creative Publishing International

This exhaustive guide to all manner of lace crochet techniques includes traditional crochet lace stitch patterns and edgings incorporated into full-size projects, followed by fresh takes on Bruges lace, Irish crochet, and freeform techniques. Don’t worry if you’ve never

ventured into these techniques; Margaret provides a clear swatch exercise in each section to get you started.Spiral-bound, 144 pages, $24.99, ISBN 978-1-58923-73-46.

Convertible CrochetDoris Chan, Potter Craft

Check that amazing skirt—or is it a top? It’s both! Doris Chan takes convertibility to the next level in her new book, Convertible Crochet. From a single amazing doily, Doris spins off twenty-four motifs that become the basis for a range of projects, from � at shawls to dimensional dresses. This is an excel-

lent book for crocheters who want to expand their skills.Paperback, 144 pages, $21.99, ISBN 978-0-30796-57-07.

Tunisian Crochet EncoreSheryl Thies, Martingale

In this book, Sheryl Thies builds upon her introduction to Tunisian stitches, Get Hooked on Tunisian Crochet! Explore beaded Tunisian stitches, short-rows, double-ended Tunisian, and much more. Luscious yarn choices highlight the beauty of the sixteen projects, from cowls and scarves to vests and sweaters.

Paperback, 80 pages, $24.99, ISBN 978-1-60468-22-50.

100 Lace Flowers to CrochetCaitlin Sainio, St. Martin’s Grif� n

The author of 100 Snow� akes to Crochet turns to projects perfect for the warmer months. The � rst section is a � ower gallery organized by color, with patterns organized by dif� culty level. All the projects are worked in thread, but try an

exploded sun� ower or daffodil in a worsted-weight yarn for a big � oral impact. The last section offers ideas for where to “plant” your crocheted � ower gardens.Paperback, 144 pages, $21.99, ISBN 978-1-25001-90-35.

07_CRSU13_BookReview.indd 7 5/9/13 11:26 AM


new & notable

Cruise the streets in style this summer with Crochet Girl Car Vinyls. You can be a

“Crochet Girl” or a “Crochet Geek” (or both!). Each design is available in twenty-

three glossy and matte shades to adorn all of your crochet-friendly vehicles.

www.vinylwallart.com

Baah Yarn, handpainted in La Jolla, California, are available in thirty-four dazzling solid and variegated shades and three weights: � nger-

ing (La Jolla), DK (Sonoma), and the newest addition, worsted. Available at yarn shops nationwide and on the Yarnover Truck (see

page 16).

www.baahyarn.com

Want to show some ink without making a life-time commitment? Declare your love for cro-chet this summer with Stick & Soak Temporary Tattoos, from the makers of Soak Wash. Each kit includes twelve unique tattoo designs, so

you can share with your crochet peeps.

www.soakwash.com

08_CRSU13NewNotable.indd 8 5/9/13 11:30 AM

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http://www.soakwash.com

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Interweave Crochet • interweavecrochet.com 9Interweave Crochet • interweavecrochet.com 9

The colorful, stand-alone Caddy Bag from California-based Atenti is perfect for toting around small- to medium-sized crochet projects. The bag is fully lined, features an ultrasuede handle, and is available in twenty-eight different fabric designs. The eight interior and exterior pockets can easily hold a handful of crochet hooks and notions, a bottle of sunscreen, and a pair of � ip-� ops for stitching poolside.

See www.atentiwholesale.com for retailers.

Measure your work with crochet-covered Lantern Moon Tape Measures. The whole collection includes nineteen crochet-covered choices, from a peace sign to a � ower to a sock monkey. Each tape measure is � ve feet long and has both metric and English measurements.

www.lanternmoon.com

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http://www.lanternmoon.com

http://www.atentiwholesale.com

yarn spotlight


for shawls

PERFECT

for any garment

PERFECT

Silk Is the Star

Silk, a delicious, crochet-friendly � ber, is well suited for year-round wear, ab-sorbing moisture in warm weather and keeping warm air close in cold weather. Scrumptious against the skin, it is smooth and soft without being slippery. All-silk � bers require a bit of care. The � ber is inelastic, so when it’s stretched, it’s stretched forever. This makes all-silk � bers terri� c for shawls, which are lovelier still with the lace opened up. For other garments, look for yarns that combine silk with other, more elastic � bers. In these blended yarns, silk’s characteristics play out in increased drape, as well as in a delicate sheen that ampli� es the beauty of the other � bers. In hand-dyes, the silk takes the dye differently, adding a subtle depth of color that further enhances the � ber. Here is a gathering of various blends of silk to fold into your own wardrobe. For fun, we’ve paired each � ber with a Hollywood star who best exempli� es the yarn’s characteristics.

The swatches are worked in the Star� sh motif (page 90) from 150 Knit & Crochet Motifs by Heather Lodinsky (Interweave, 2011).

Marcy Smith

Cascade Pima SilkCONTENT: 85% pima cotton, 15% silk PUT-UP: 109 yd, 100 m/1.76 oz, 50 g

CONSTRUCTION: 4-ply CARE: handwash cool, dry � at COLOR: 0317, heathered pansy HOOK: H/8 (5 mm)

Meryl Streep: Silk gives this yarn sleek elegance, and the cotton keeps it utterly dependable. Together, they create a lovely fabric, with both stitch

de� nition and drape. It’s a pleasure to work with, with just a whisper of strandiness (after all, even Meryl Streep had that turn in Mama Mia).

Zitron Traum Seidedistributed by SkacelCONTENT: 100% mulberry silk PUT-UP: 874 yd, 800 m/3.5 oz, 100 g CONSTRUCTION: singles CARE: handwash cool, dry � at COLOR: 017, andalusite HOOK: G/6 (4 mm)Ava Gardner: Pull out that fancy shawl pattern you’ve stashed in your queue and work it up in this 100% mulberry silk. Its featherweight makes it a bit tricky to handle because you can’t really feel the yarn in your hand, but the singles construction makes it easy to work with. � e resulting fabric is light but warm, with a delightful shimmer—perfect in candlelight. Note: Yarn is doubled in the swatch.

10_CRSU13Yarnspot-b.indd 10 5/9/13 11:31 AM


for anysolid or lace

garment

PERFECT

for socks, shawls,summer

cardigans

PERFECT

for lacy motifgarments

PERFECT

for cardigan or shell, or shell-

stitch scarf

PERFECT

Visit CrochetMe.com for reviews of more yarns.

.comOnline atWisdom Yarns Saki Silkdistributed by Universal YarnCONTENT: 55% � ne merino superwash, 25% nylon, 20% silk PUT-UP: 440 yd, 400 m/3.5 oz, 100 g CONSTRUCTION: 4-ply CARE: machine wash cool, dry � at COLOR: 305, spring blossoms HOOK: G/6 (4 mm)Judy Garland: You’ll be over the rainbow with this delightfully colorful yarn, which is sturdy enough for a long journey. Back at home, it washes up in the machine, ready for another adventure. It crochets easily into a fabric with terri� c stitch de� nition and easy drape.

Lorna’s Laces HonorCONTENT: 70% baby alpaca, 30% silk PUT-UP: 275 yd, 251 m/3.5 oz, 100 g CONSTRUCTION: 4-ply CARE: handwash cold, dry � at COLOR: 38, mixed berries HOOK: G/6 (4 mm)Dame Julie Andrews: � is super-soft yarn with a shimmer of silk is a dream to crochet. � e four plies hang together without any strandy fussiness. � e short color changes play out delightfully on taller stitches, producing a classic fabric with a sense of humor. You’ll be singing its praises to the hills and beyond.

Handmaiden FlaxenCONTENT: 65% silk, 35% linen PUT-UP: 273 yd, 250 m/3.5 oz,

100 g CONSTRUCTION: 2-ply CARE: handwash cool, dry � at COLOR: lily pond HOOK: F/5 (3.75 mm)

Katharine Hepburn: Light, luminous, and a bit earthy—this silk-linen blend exudes crisp chic. � is yarn has enough

heft (or is that cleft, like Cary Grant’s chin?) to hold � rm and show lively in the stitchwork, but the fabric produced is light and airy. After a few rounds with this, you too will

exclaim, “My, she is yar!”

Classic Elite Yarns Classic SilkCONTENT: 50% cotton, 30% silk, 20% nylon

PUT-UP: 135 yd, 123 m/1.76 oz, 50 g CONSTRUCTION: 3-ply CARE: handwash cold, dry

� at COLOR: 6915, fern HOOK: H/8 (5 mm)Debbie Reynolds: � is crochets just like the

cotton you love, but cotton’s tendency toward sti� ness is mellowed by the silk and nylon. � e resulting fabric is soft, pliable, and light as air.

10_CRSU13Yarnspot-b.indd 11 5/9/13 11:32 AM


back to basics

Style Is a Cinch!Sharon Zientara

This issue features several tops and wraps that can be transformed with a bit of belted magic. And what better way to cinch a fabulous crocheted project than with a fabulous crocheted belt? Here are options, both wide and skinny, to get you started.

FAUX-OVERLAPPING MINI-WHEEL MOTIFSfrom The Finer Edge by Kristin Omdahl (Interweave, 2012)The interlocking look of this belt is reminiscent of chain links. Make it long enough to have ends dangling around your waist, or add a big buckle and wear it slung around your hips. Size it up to a great chunky accessory by using a bulky yarn or two strands held double.

CLUSTER CHAINfrom Promise Necklace by Kathryn White, Interweave Crochet, Spring 2013This twisted chain, made up of two strands in contrasting colors, is borrowed from a delicate thread necklace. In this worsted-weight yarn it makes a great waist-cincher for a wrap or stole worn as a vest. Or work it in two bold contrasting colors, and then string it through the belt loops of your favorite pair of jeans.

ZUMA BELTfrom Zuma Skirt by Doris Chan, page 41The slinky belt woven in and out of Doris Chan’s Zuma Skirt is a clever variation on foundation single crochet. This versatile style could be woven through all kinds of lacy crocheted fabric. Add a bit of bling by working sparkly beads in the chain spaces between each single crochet.

12_CRSU13btb2.indd 12 5/9/13 11:34 AM


Shop.CrochetMe.com

Unexpected Crochet Stitches for

Afghans & Beyond with Robyn Chachula

Interweave Crochet Workshop:

Colorwork stitches such as stripes, mosaic crochet, stranded crochet, and tapestry techniques.

Basic to intermediate Tunisian crochet techniques.

And much more!

How to crochet cables with and without post stitches.

How to crochet popular Granny Square motifs.

Crocheted lace techniques for all skill levels.

Includes 2 FREE

afghan patterns and a mini-stitch

dictionary!

013_CRSU13.indd 13 5/9/13 11:35 AM


Gather your tresses with a tiny posy! A small cro-cheted motif decorates a button covered in a contrasting fabric. Use the type of buttons that have small hooks on the back-side; they do not require any tools to fasten.

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE About 1½ " diameter.YARN Nazli Gelin Garden 10 thread (100% Egyptian giza mercerized cotton; 308 yd [282 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #700-43 robin egg or #701-35 lime multi; one ball makes many. Thread distributed by Universal Yarn.HOOK Size 7 (1.65 mm) steel hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS 1½ " half ball cover buttons (must be the kind that requires no tools and has hooks in the back to catch fabric); small piece of thin fabric to cover button; yarn needle; one hair elastic in coordinating color.GAUGE Motif should measure about 2" diameter.

NotesMotif is crocheted, then fastened to cover

button while snapping back of button in place. Back will secure fabric covering and motif. Use a very thin fabric to cover button so that hooks can also attach to motif.

PatternMOTIFCh 7, sl st in first ch to form ring.Rnd 1: Ch 1, 16 sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join—16 sts.Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as hdc and ch 3), [sk next st, hdc in next st, ch 3] 7 times, sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch-5 to join—8 lps.Rnd 3: Ch 1, [sc, hdc, dc, tr, ch 6, sl st in 6th ch from hook, tr, dc, hdc, sc] in each lp around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

FINISHINGUsing the pattern on the back of cover button package, cut a circle of fabric to specified size. Stretch it tightly over top of button (as directed) and press into hooks on back of button. Place motif on top of button and hook each one of the ch lps over a hook on back of the button. There should be 4 hooks bet each of the 8 lps. You may find it helpful to use your crochet hook to stretch the lps over the hooks. When you are satisfied with the placement of the lps, snap the back of the button in place, securing the fabric and motif to the button at the same time. Weave in ends. Thread a waste piece of thread through the center of the hair elastic. Thread both ends of crochet thread through the shank on the back of the button and pull until hair elastic is centered through the button shank, forming a lp on both sides of button shank. Remove thread from hair elastic. Thread one lp end of hair elastic on one side of button shank through other lp end of hair elastic on other side of button shank, and pull through to attach hair elastic to button shank. �

Ponytail PosiesBrenda K. B. Anderson

fast & fabulous

14_CRSU13_fastfab-b.indd 14 5/9/13 11:41 AM


Archway Shawlin Garden 3

www.universalyarn.com

Garden Book Four:Garden Romance18 Exquisite Designs

Featuring Nazli Gelin Garden 3, 5, & 10100% Egyptian Mercerized Giza Cotton

iiiiiDDDDt Dt DE i it D8 E i it DEE88 iiiiiiE i iE i it8 EEE88 it D88 EEE88 D8 DDDD iiiii

015_CRSU13.indd 15 5/9/13 11:52 AM


feature

“We are now at Ocean and Wilshire in Santa Monica!! It’s a beautiful day, come hang out!”

Looks like a Tweet from a buddy—and it is. But it’s a business memo as well.

� e Yarnover Truck, brainchild of Maridee Nelson and Barbra Pushies, is something like a food truck on the streets of Southern California, but instead of selling tacos, the truck sells yarn. Brilliant, yes?

It started with a former Little Debbie snack truck the women located on Craigslist. After having a mechanic check it out, the women sent it o� to the Modesto home of Barbra’s brother Peyton, who set about the makeover. Peyton took about three months, working outside his construction job hours, to convert the truck from something designed to haul tasty snacks to something designed to sell tasty yarn. In between, the women focused on an ambitious $10,000 crowd-source campaign on Indiegogo and a whole lot of meeting and greeting.

Even if the truck wasn’t � lled with yarn, you might be tempted to just move in. From the wood � oors to the skylight framed with crown molding, “Debbie,” as the women call her, is one classy gal. Compared with brick-and-mortar stores, though, she is somewhat dainty, with room for just � ve customers at a time. � e women dedicate most of the space to the yarn itself, stored in cubicles that are covered up and secured for travel. � e fairly extensive yarn selection includes two colorways exclusive to the Yarnover Truck, produced by Baah Yarn and Anzula, both based in California.

“Our focus for purchasing the yarn was to try to carry things that other stores aren’t carrying,” Maridee said.

� e women also wanted to provide pattern support while keeping paper to a minimum. � eir solution is to provide a single copy of each available pattern, some by California-based designers. � ey sell download codes for the patterns that customers can access on their home computers.

Debbie hit the road on March 23 in Burbank. About 100 people joined in for the launch, Maridee said.

“It was a beautiful sunny afternoon,” said Maridee. “Everyone sat and talked and knitted and crocheted. It was a lovely afternoon.” And, she added, “Sales were lovely.”

Because their shop is literally a moving target, the women rely on social media to keep their customers in touch with their next stop. � ey deliver an e-newsletter to subscribers to let folks know where they’ll be that week, and they post live updates through Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. On April 9, they wrote the following on Facebook:

Make sure you come check out all our exclusive merchan-dise this weekend during the Yarn Crawl! Including this lovely shawl designed by Fickle Knitter Design in our exclusive colorway from Baah Yarns! � e shawl is called “Little Debbie,” and the colorway is “Keep on Truckin’.”

Of course, as sales soar, their yarn stock dwindles, and there’s no back room for overstock. But they have that covered: only one person can be in the truck when it’s traveling, so the other person drives a car. With the car, they have a portable storage unit, which they stock from a larger storage unit before hitting the road. If their supply dwindles, they restock from the car’s stash.

� e car comes in handy, too, for scouting locations before-hand. “Every city that we sell in has di� erent parking rules,” said Maridee. “We have to get a business license for every di� erent city, and most have di� erent rules for where we can park.”

Yarn to GoMarcy Smith

featurefeature

Photos courtesy of Yarnover Truck

016_CRSU13_YOver-b.indd 16 5/9/13 12:14 PM


Barbra and Maridee look to events where people are already gathered, such as farmers’ markets, crafts fairs, and festivals. In addition, the women host their own events and make the truck available for private parties. � ey were active in the L.A. Yarn Crawl, April 11–14. Each day, they part-nered with a di� erent yarn shop: Unwind in Burbank, Alamitos Bay in Long Beach, Douglas Park in Santa Monica, and Colors in Claremont. Because their yarn doesn’t compete with that of the other retailers, the alliance helped bring tra� c to both businesses. Lines were out the door all four days, Maridee said.

One of the nice things about brick-and-mortar stores is that they can have trunk shows, which are a great way to show customers how a pattern works up. � ink you can’t do that on a truck? Yes, you can! For the Yarn Crawl, crochet designer Linda Permann sent a bucketload of garments, along with download codes for the patterns.

“� e best feedback we had during the Yarn Crawl is that they were so happy there was so much crochet in the truck,” said Maridee.

Linda was thrilled to be a part of the action, even from a distance. “I absolutely love Maridee’s commitment to having crochet in the truck,” she said. “� ey sold out of several of the initial patterns that they ordered in the � rst day of the yarn crawl—who says crochet doesn’t sell?”

� e Yarnover Truck is part of a growing retail group—the American Mobile Retail Association, started by the owners of Le Fashion Truck, L.A.’s � rst mobile retail boutique.

Debbie’s � rst three weeks were a blur of moving and press coverage: Maridee and Barbra appeared on the morning show on KTLA and were featured in the Los Angeles Times, and Maridee is con� dent enough to exclaim, “� e truck is a wild success!”

� e two women haven’t given up their day jobs yet—Maridee works in marketing at Warner Brothers Pictures, and Barbra works in production at Disney Toons Studio—so the truck rolls in the evenings and on weekends.

“I hope I get to visit the Yarnover Truck one day,” Linda said. “I think it’s a great idea. It might not seem like it, but there are plenty of people who don’t have access to a local yarn shop, or can’t make the hours of their shop if they work during the day. So the idea of a yarn shop that comes to you is pretty darn cool.” �

Website (sign up for e-newsletter): www.yarnovertruck.comFacebook: www.facebook.com/yarnovertruckTwitter: www.twitter.com/yarnovertruckRavelry: www.ravelry.com/people/yarnovertruckPinterest: www.pinterest.com/yarnovertruck

OMEGA DISTRIBUIDORA DE HILOS, S.A. DE C.V.Callejón San Antonio Abad No.23, col. Tránsito, México, D. F., 06820Ph: 001 525555 228660 Fax: 5522 6347 Lada 01800 70 25100e-mail: [email protected], [email protected]

Made in Mexico

Since 1948

Espiga threads and cords, different sizes, excellent for all kind of crochet and handcrafts. Brightness, durability, different.

Omega has the best cotton threads and yarns, different sizes and plenty of colors to provi-de satisfaction in your crochet and knitting handcrafts.

016_CRSU13_YOver-b.indd 17 5/9/13 12:14 PM

http://www.yarnovertruck.com

http://www.facebook.com/yarnovertruck

http://www.twitter.yarnovertruck

http://www.ravelry.com/people/yarnovertruck

http://www.pinterest.com/yarnovertruck


Crocheted lines de� ne these garments, creating a seemingly impossible fabric de� ned as much by the open space as by the � ne lines.

HONEYCOMB SHAWL BY KATHY MER-RICK. The hexagonal motifs of this

colorful and light summer shawl share characteristics with mirrors used in

astronomical telescopes. Yarn: Blue Sky Alpacas Alpaca Silk. Page 26

18_CRSU13_GriffithParkPG.indd 18 5/9/13 12:17 PM


MEHNDI NECKLACE BY LORI M. CARLSON. Mehndi, or

henna tattoo art, inspired this delicate motif. The mesh choker

is joined with a crochet button. Yarn: Lizbeth Size 20 thread

(Handy Hands). Page 28

18_CRSU13_GriffithParkPG.indd 19 5/14/13 11:30 AM


ENNIS SHAWL BY VASHTI BRAHA. This Tunisian crochet shawl is worked corner to corner, with Tuni-sian � let crochet de� ning the row edges. The staggered open squares along the edge are reminiscent of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Mayan-inspired Ennis House in Los Feliz, south of Grif� th Park. Use just one skein for a quick neck scarf version of the two-skein shawl shown here. Yarn: South West Trading Co. Bamboo. Page 22

SOLEIL LARIAT BY DANIELA NII. This lariat is worked in one continu-

ous piece in a variation of the sun motif in the Solar Wrap. Yarn: Auster-

mann Algarve (Skacel). Page 24

SOLAR WRAP BY DANIELA NII. Worked continuously in � ve strips,

this shawl comes together in the � nal round of the short strips so you can wrap yourself in sunshine even

on cloudy days. Yarn: Austermann Algarve (Skacel). Page 23





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Ennis ShawlVashti Braha

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE Triangular shawl (pictured): About 62" wide from point to point and 25" long at deepest point of triangle. If one skein is used instead of two, the �nished triangular neck wrap is about 50" wide from point to point and 20" long at deepest point of triangle. YARN Southwest Trading Co. Bamboo (100% bamboo; 250 yd [229 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #128 ocean life, 2 skeins.HOOK Size G/6 (4 mm) Tunisian crochet hook, at least 13" long. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS St marker (m); yarn needle.GAUGE 16 tss sts and 6 rows in patt = 4" before blocking. The bamboo yarn relaxes dramatically with simple damp blocking, allowing �nal size of shawl to inc a bit in width. To measure gauge, work �rst 8 rows of patt.

NotesPattern alternates one row of Tunisian

simple st (tss) with one row of tall sts (tdtr) and large eyelets (tyo). The eyelets create the open ‘windows’ of filet lace. The tall sts create the solid areas that frame the open windows. Incs and decs are added only at the beg of tss rows.

Shawl is worked from corner to corner.Yarn over lps may seem looser than other

Tunisian sts. Firm up the yo lps as you add them during the FwP by sliding them close tog and tighten them just enough that they will still slide along the hook during RetP.

Tyo counts as one st.Avoid “Loop Confusion”: The open and

closed filet ‘windows’ are created by combin-ing multiple yarn overs and tall sts in the same row. For example, three tyo and then a tdtr means that you will yo six times, and work off only three of them for the tdtr, leav-ing the other three yo on your hook.

Ch are used for the incs along the beg of the

FwP. Avoid crocheting these new foundation chs tightly. Crochet into the back bump of the ch, not its top lps.

Starting with Row 11, placing a marker (m) is suggested in patt to mark where the open ‘windows’ become solid ‘walls’ in the foll row. Move m up as needed.

Stitch GuideReturn Pass (RetP): Ch 1 loosely, *yo and pull through 2 lps on hook; rep from * until one lp rem on hook.Tunisian Twisted Double Treble (twdtr): Yo 3 times, insert hook from left to right in vertical bar of designated st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps on hook] 3 times: one lp of st rem on hookTunisian Yarn Over (tyo): Yo hook and leave on hook; sk next st of row (each tyo counts as st).Ending Tdtr (end tdtr): Yo 3 times, insert hook in 2 vertical end lps of last st of row, yo and pull up lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps on hook] 3 times: one lp of st rem on hook.Ending Tunisian Simple Stitch (end tss): Insert hook in two vertical end lps of last st of row, yo and pull up lp, leave lp on hook: FwP completed.Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss):Tss forward pass (FwP): *Insert hook from right to left behind front vertical bar, yarn over and pull up loop, leave loop on hook; repeat from * to last vertical bar at edge, pick up front and back loops of last bar to create firm edge; return pass.

PatternSHAWLFoundation Row: Ch 1, sl st in bottom ridge lp of ch, ch 6 loosely (see Notes), sl st in bottom ridge lp of ch nearest hook—2 picots and 5 ch.Row 1: Pull up lp in bottom ridge lp of 5 ch across, pull up lp in 1 bottom strand of last picot—7 lps on hook; RetP (see Stitch Guide).Row 2: Ch 6 (counts as first tdtr in this row and all even-numbered rows), twdtr (see Stitch Guide) in next st, 3 tyo (see Stitch Guide) over next 3 sts, twdtr in next st, end tdtr (see Stitch Guide)—7 lps on hook; RetP.Row 3 (inc): Ch 5 loosely, sl st in bottom ridge lp of ch nearest hook, pull up lp in next 4 ch, tss (see Stitch Guide) in next 2 tdtr, tss in next 3 tyo (their vertical bars look like diagonal wrapping strands), tss in next tdtr, end tss (see Stitch Guide)— an inc of 5 sts, 12 lps on hook; RetP.Row 4: Ch 6, twdtr in next st, 3 tyo over next 3 sts, twdtr in next 2 sts, 3 tyo over next 3 sts, twdtr in next st, end tdtr—12 lps on hook; RetP.Row 5 (inc): Ch 5 loosely, sl st in ch nearest hook, pull up lp in next 4 ch, *tss in next 2 tdtr, tss in next 3 tyo; rep from * to last 2 sts of row, tss in next tdtr, end tss—an inc of 5 sts; RetP.Row 6: Ch 6, twdtr in next st, 3 tyo over next

3 sts, *twdtr in next 2 sts, 3 tyo over next 3 sts; rep from * to last 2 sts, twdtr in next st, end tdtr; RetP.Rows 7−10: Rep Rows 5–6 two times—27 sts.Row 11 (inc): Ch 5 loosely, sl st in ch nearest hook, pull up lp in next 4 ch, *tss in next 2 tdtr, tss in next 3 tyo; rep from * to last 2 sts of row, tss in next tdtr, end tss, pm in 25th lp from beg edge (see Notes)—inc of 5 sts; RetP. Row 12: Ch 6, twdtr in next st, 3 tyo over next 3 sts, *twdtr in next 2 sts, 3 tyo over next 3 sts; rep from * to m, twdtr in marked st and each rem st to last st, end tdtr in last st; RetP.Rep Rows 11–12 until last rep of row 12 has 102 sts. Note: If adapting patt for a different size, work until you've used up half of your yarn on an even row or last rep of row 12 is the length desired for the center point of your shawl/scarf. Beg 2nd half of shawl:Row 1 (dec row): Ch 1, sl st in first vertical bar, sl st in next vertical bar, sl st in 3 tyo vertical bars, sl st in vertical bar of next twdtr, tss in next twdtr, tss in each st to last st, end tss, pm in 25th lp from beg edge—dec of 5 sts; RetP.Row 2: Ch 6, twdtr in next st, 3 tyo over next 3 sts, *twdtr in next 2 sts, 3 tyo over next 3 sts; rep from * to m, twdtr in marked st and each rem st to last st, end tdtr in last st; RetP.Rep Rows 1–2 until 27 sts rem. Row 3: Ch 6, twdtr in next st, 3 tyo over next 3 sts, *twdtr in next 2 sts, 3 tyo over next 3 sts; rep from * to last 2 sts, twdtr in next st, end tdtr; RetP.Row 4: Rep Row 1, omitting m.

22_CRSU13_GriffithPrk.indd 22 5/9/13 12:22 PM


Grif�th Park

Rep Rows 3–4 until 7 sts rem. Last row: Ch 1, sl st in first vertical bar, sl st in next vertical bar, sl st in 3 tyo vertical bars, sl st in vertical bar of next twdtr, (sl st, ch 1, sl st) in end tdtr. Fasten off.FINISHINGWeave in ends. Block. �

Solar WrapDaniela Nii

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE About 14½" wide and 65" long.YARN Austermann Algarve (100% Mako cotton mercerized and gassed; 155 yd [142 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #0036, 6 skeins. Yarn distributed by Skacel.HOOK Size E/4 (3.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle.GAUGE 1 motif = 2½" square worked through Rnd 5 of long strip; blocked.

NotesWrap is created by first working 3 long

strips and then 2 shorter strips which join the pieces tog.

Each strip is worked as one long continuous piece of partial motifs, then opposite side worked to complete each motif.

Stitch GuideCrossover Slip Stitch (Crossover sl st): Insert hook in next ch, pass yarn ball under work, so the working yarn is now on left side of ch, yo and complete sl st. The sl st now crosses over the foundation ch and work con-tinues on the left side of the foundation ch.Picot: Ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook.Invisible or tapestry join: Complete last st but do not join to first st. Instead, cut yarn and pull up until tail comes through st. Use yarn needle and thread yarn tail under both lps of top of first st of rnd, then insert needle from top back down into top of last st of rnd.First partial motif:Ch 9 (2 ch for foundation ch, 7 ch for motif);

4

5

3

4

5

Reduced Sample Long Motif Strip Edging

Partial Motif 1

Partial Motif 2

= chain (ch)

= slip st (sl st)

= crossover slip st (see Stitch Guide)

= picot

= single crochet (sc)

Joining of Short Motif Strip

Key



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crossover sl st (see Stitch Guide) in 7th ch from hook to form ring.Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring, ch 3, 6 sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join—12 sc and 1 ch-3 sp. Rnd 2: Crossover sl st in next foundation ch (1 ch rem), ch 9, sl st in ch-3 sp, ch 9, sl st blo in last sc of previous rnd—2 ch-9 sps. Rnd 3: Crossover sl st in last foundation ch, (3 sc, [picot (see Stitch Guide), 3 sc] 4 times) in first ch-9 sp—first partially complete motif. Do not fasten off.Subsequent partial motifs:Ch 16 (9 ch for foundation ch, 7 ch for motif); Crossover sl st in 7th ch from hook to form ring.Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring, ch 3, 6 sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join—12 sc and 1 ch-3 sp. Rnd 2: Crossover sl st in next foundation ch (8 ch rem), ch 9, sl st in ch-3 sp, ch 9, sl st blo in last sc of previous rnd—2 ch-9 sps. Rnd 3: Crossover sl st in next foundation ch (7 ch rem), (3 sc, [picot, 3 sc] 4 times) in first ch-9 sp—partially complete motif. Do not fasten off.

PatternWRAPNote: Make 3 long strips, then two short strips, joining to adjacent long strips on final rnd.Long strip (short strip): Make a strip of 26 (24) partially complete motifs (see Stitch Guide). Cont Rnd 3 to complete opposite side of motifs as foll: Picot, (3 sc, [picot, 3 sc] 4 times) in ch-9 sp, sl st in first sc to join (motif complete), *sl st in next 7 foundation ch to next motif, (3 sc, [picot, 3 sc] 4 times) in ch-9 sp, sl st in first sc to join (motif complete); rep from * 23 (21) more times, sl st in next 7 foundation ch to last motif, (3 sc, [picot, 3 sc] 4 times) in ch-9 sp, picot, sl st in first sc to join (last motif complete), 2 sl st in just-worked picot to reach top of picot.Rnd 4: Ch 8 (counts as ch 3 and ch-5 sp), *tr in first picot, [ch 5, dc in next picot] 2 times, ch 5, tr in last picot, dtr (see Glossary) in 4th sl st of center foundation ch bet motifs; rep from * 24 (22) more times, tr in first picot of last motif, [ch 5, dc in next picot] 2 times**, [ch 5, tr in next picot] 2 times, then work 2nd half of rnd to complete motifs as foll: Ch 5; rep

from * to **, ch 5, tr in next picot, dtr (counts as ch-5 sp) in top of beg ch-3 to join.Long strip only:Rnd 5: Ch 1, 6 sc in first 2 ch-5 sps, 3 sc in tr for corner, *[6 sc in next ch-5 sp] 3 times; rep from * 25 (23) more times, 3 sc in tr for corner**, [6 sc in ch-5 sp] 2 times, 3 sc in tr for corner; rep from * to **, invisible join (see Stitch Guide). Fasten off.Short strip only:Note: Before working final rnd of shorter strip, match up motifs so that one motif of the longer strip extends beyond the shorter strip at each end, taking care that RS of strips are facing. Work all sl st joins by inserting hook from the top down in adjacent motif and drawing yarn over up through fabric and lp on hook.Rnd 5 (joining): Ch 1, 6 sc in first 2 ch-5 sps, 3 sc in tr for corner, *6 sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, sl st join (see Notes) in first dc of adjacent motif (AM) of longer strip, ch 3, 6 sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, sl st join in next dc of AM, ch 3, 6 sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * 23 more times, 3 sc in tr for corner**, [6 sc in ch-5 sp] 2 times, 3 sc in tr for corner, rep from * to **, invisible join. Fasten off.FINISHINGWeave in ends. Block wrap to measurements by blocking each motif to 2½" square. �

Soleil LariatDaniela Nii

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE About 40" long, including motif spray.YARN Austermann Algarve (100% Mako cotton mercerized and gassed; 155 yd [142 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #0036, 1 ball. Yarn distributed by Skacel.HOOK Size E/4 (3.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle.GAUGE 1 motif = 1½" wide and 1¼" long.

NotesLariat is worked as one continuous piece

with RS always facing.

Motif trio is worked as three joined partial motifs that are completed as part of final rnd of 3rd motif.

Stitch GuideCrossover Slip Stitch (Crossover sl st): Insert hook in next ch, pass yarn ball under work, so the work yarn is now on left side of

Motif Trio

Key

Motif 2

Motif 3

= chain (ch)

= slip st (sl st)

= crossover slip st (see Stitch Guide)

= picot




025_CRSU13.indd 25 5/9/13 3:08 PM


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ch, yo and complete sl st. The sl st now crosses over the foundation chain and work continues on the left side of the foundation ch.Picot: Ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook.Invisible or tapestry join: Complete last st but do not join to first st. Instead, cut yarn and pull up until tail comes through st. Use yarn needle and thread yarn tail under both lps of top of first st of rnd, then insert needle from top back down into top of last st of rnd. Motif-Trio:Partial motifs:*Ch 14 (7 ch for foundation ch, 7 ch for motif), crossover sl st (see Stitch Guide) in 7th ch from hook to form ring.Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring, ch 3, 6 sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join—12 sc and 1 ch-3 sp. Crossover sl st in next foundation ch—6 foundation ch rem.Rnd 2: Ch 9, sl st in ch-3 sp, ch 9, sl st blo in last sc of previous rnd—2 ch-9 sps. Crossover sl st in next foundation ch—5 foundation ch rem.Rnd 3: (3 sc, [picot (see Stitch Guide), 3 sc] 4 times) in first ch-9 sp—partial motif; rep from * 2 more times for 2nd and 3rd partial motifs. Do not fasten off.Cont Rnd 3 to finish motifs as foll: Picot, *(3 sc, [picot, 3 sc] 4 times) in 2nd ch-9 sp, sl st in first sc to join (motif complete), sl st in next 5 foundation ch to next motif; rep from * 2 more times—3 complete motifs.

PatternLARIATMotif Spray: Ch 1 (anchor ch), [make motif trio (see Stitch Guide), ch 1] 3 times—motif spray complete. Do not fasten off.

Chain: Insert hook in anchor ch, esc (see Glossary), work fsc (see Glossary) until piece measures about 39".End ring: Sc in ch edge of last st, ch 10, pass ch-10 underneath fsc strand and pass yarn and hook over so ch runs through ring, sl st in sc edge to form ring. Rnd 1: 3 sc, [picot, 3 sc] 5 times, then work an invisible join (see Stitch Guide). FINISHINGWeave in ends. Spray block motifs if desired. �

Honeycomb ShawlKathy Merrick

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 60" long, 14" wide.YARN Blue Sky Alpacas Alpaca Silk (50% alpaca, 50% silk; 146 yd [133 m]/1¾ oz [50 g];

): #133 blush (MC), 3 skeins; #129 amethyst (A), #136 sapphire (B), #128 plum (C), #148 peridot (D); 1 skein each.HOOK Size F/5 (3.75mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle.GAUGE Each motif = 4" after blocking.

NotesMotifs are made separately and joined to

scarf on last rnd.Foll chart for color placement.Work over beg tails of each motif and work

in end tails as you go.Each contrast color motif is surrounded by

6 main color motifs.

PatternSCARFFirst motif:With MC, ch 10, sl st in first ch to form ring.Rnd 1: Ch 1, 24 sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join—24 sc.Rnd 2: Ch 11 (counts as dc and ch 8), sk next 3 sc; [dc in next sc, ch 8, sk next 3 sc] five times, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-11 to join—6 ch-8 lps.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, 15 sc in next ch-8 sp, [sc in next dc, 15 sc in next ch-8 sp] 5 times, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.Second motif:With MC, work Rnds 1–2 of first motif.Rnd 3 (join): Ch 1, sc in same st as join, [5 sc in ch-8 sp, sl st in corresponding sc of first motif] 2 times, 5 sc in same ch-8 sp, [sc in next dc, 15 sc in next ch-8 sp] 5 times, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.Subsequent motifs:Work Rnds 1–2 of first motif.Rnd 3 (join): Ch 1, sc in same st as join, *[5 sc in ch-8 sp, sl st in corresponding sc of adjacent motif (AM)] 2 times, 5 sc in same ch-8 sp*; rep from * to *, [sc in next dc, 15 sc in next ch-8 sp] 4 times, sl st in first sc to join.

MC

MC

A

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MC

B

MC

MC

C

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MC

MC

B

MC

MC

Assembly

Crossover Slip stitch



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027_CRSU13.indd 27 5/9/13 3:06 PM


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Cont, foll placement and color chart until there are 72 motifs arranged in 15 horizontal rows.FINISHINGWet block scarf to finished measurements, pinning twice into each lp to maintain curved lps. �

Mehndi NecklaceLori M. Carlson

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE Medallion: 4¼" diameter from point to point, blocked; neckband: 13¼" long, blocked.YARN Lizbeth Size 20 thread (100% Egyptian cotton; 210 yd [191 m]/¾ oz [25 g]; ): #682 country grape dk (MC), #636 country grape lt (CC); one ball each. Thread distributed by Handy Hands.HOOK Size 12 (1.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle; st markers (m).GAUGE Rnds 1–5 = 1".

NotesMotif is worked in 9 rnds, then medallion is

attached while working beg ch of neckband. The neckband is fastened with a crochet button and is adjustable by creating a series of treble crochet button holes at the end of band. Band can be lengthened or shortened for custom fit by adding to or reducing number of patt reps (mult of 6 sts) worked (see diagram).

When instructed to work in top of sc or st, insert hook from top through front and left vertical lps.

Stitch GuidePicot: Ch 3, sl st in top of sc or st indicated.Picot cluster: (Ch 3, dc, picot, dc, ch 3, sl st) in sc indicated.

PatternMEDALLIONWith CC, make an adjustable ring (see Glossary).Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, 8 sc in ring; sl st in first sc to join—8 sc.Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as st), 2 hdc in each st around, sl st in first hdc to join—16 hdc. Place marker (pm) in first hdc.Rnd 3: Sl st flo in each hdc around; sl st in marked hdc to join—16 sl sts. Do not remove m. Fasten off.

1

1

2

2

3

3

1

2

FIRST MOTIF

JOINING ONONE PETAL

JOINING ONTWO PETALS

3

Honeycomb Motifs

= chain (ch)

= slip st (sl st)

= double crochet (dc)


Stitch Key



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029_CRSU13_web.indd 29 5/9/13 12:33 PM


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Rnd 4: With RS facing, join MC in blo of marked hdc on Rnd 2, ch 1, 2 sc blo in same st, sc blo in next st, [2 sc blo in next st, sc blo in next st] around; sl st in first sc to join—24 sc.Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 3, sk next st, [sc in next st, ch 3, sk next st] around; sl st in first sc to join—12 ch-3 sps.Rnd 6: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 9 (counts as first tr and ch 5), [tr in next ch-3 sp, ch 5] around; sl st in 4th ch of beg ch-9 to join—12 tr, 12 ch-5 sps.Rnd 7: Sl st in first ch-5 sp, ch 1, 5 sc in same sp, [ch 1, 5 sc in next ch-5 sp] around, ch 1, sl st in first sc to join—60 sc, 12 ch-1 sps.Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in same st and in next 4 sts, FPdc (see Glossary) around next tr on Rnd 6, *sk next ch-1 sp, sc in next 5 sc, FPdc around next tr on Rnd 6; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join—60 sc, 12 FPdc. Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, *[ch 4, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st] 3 times, ch 5, sl st in 4th ch from hook and in next ch, sl st in top of sc at base of ch-5, ch 4, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, ch 12, drop lp from hook, insert hook in 2nd sc from last sc made and draw dropped lp through st, sl st in ch-12 sp, ch 1, in ch-12 sp work [sc, ch 6, (dc, picot, dc, ch 3, sl st) in 4th ch from hook, ch 2] 5 times, sc in ch-12 sp, sl st in top of next sc; rep from * 4 times, *[ch 4, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st] 3 times, ch 4, sl st in first sc to join—5 groups of 5-points each. Fasten off. Place m in last sc made for placement of neckband.Neckband:Ch 74. With RS of motif facing, 3 dc in marked sc on Rnd 9, ch 75 (see Notes).Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch and dc across; turn—151 sc.Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as first tr), tr in next 3

sts, pm in last tr made for button placement, tr in next 3 sts, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, [tr in next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts] across to last 7 sts, tr in last 7 sts; turn—59 tr, 46 ch-2 sps.Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first 7 sts, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, [ch 1, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp] across to last 7 sts, sc in last 7 sts; turn—106 sc, 45 ch-1 sps.Row 4: Sc in first 3 sts, FPdc around 4th tr on Row 2, sk next st on Row 4, sc in next 2 sts, sk next 2 tr on Row 2, FPdc around next tr on Row 2, sk next st on Row 4, [sc in next 2 sts, FPdc around next tr on Row 2, sk ch-1 sp on Row 4] 45 times, sc in next 2 sts, FPdc around next tr on Row 2, sk next st on Row 4, sc in next 2 sts, sk next 2 tr on Row 2, FPdc around next tr, sk next st on Row 4, sc in last 3 sts; turn.Row 5: Sl st in first 2 sts, (sl st, ch 1, sc, picot cl [see Stitch Guide]) in next st, sc in next st, *sl st in next 4 sts, (sl st, ch 1, sc, picot cl) in next st, sc in next st; rep from * across to last 3 sts, sl st in last 3 sts. Fasten off.Button:Hold neckband vertically so that the marked tr is horizontal. With MC, pull up lp around post of marked tr, ch 1, sc around same post.Rnd 1: Ch 4, 15 dc in 4th ch from hook; sl st in top of beg ch-4 to join—16 dc.Rnd 2: Sl st in each st around; sl st in first st to join. Fasten off. FINISHINGWeave in ends. Block. �

1235

6

9

5

3

1

2

4

4

78= chain (ch)

= slip stitch (sl st)

= slip stitch front loop only (sl st �o)


= half double crochet (hdc)


= treble crochet (tr)

= Front Post double crochet (FPdc)

= adjustable ring

Stitch Key


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031_CRSU13.indd 31 5/9/13 12:36 PM

beyond the basics


For years, I thought I knew “love knots.” Crocheted in one certain way, they make a lacy mesh. But I’ve discovered that much more lies below the surface of this sweet Victorian crochet stitch.

Like love itself, even its name is a bit � ckle. In my nine-teenth-century English-language sources, it was primarily called “knot stitch” and occasionally “hailstone stitch.” By the mid-twentieth century, “Solomon’s knot” and “lover’s knot” had taken the place of the earlier names in print.

“Love knot” is my favorite name because it’s directly associated with a speci� c crochet stitch without also referring to macramé, embroidery, religion, or . . . risqué sculpture. As you read this article, substitute your favorite name, and keep the alternative names in mind when you search for more information.

The Essence of a Love KnotIt is often thought that love knots require intermediate-

level skill. But after teaching classes in making love knots, I think of the stitch itself as easy level, and the iconic love-knot mesh lace as intermediate. � e love knot (or LK) simply combines two easy-level stitches—the chain (ch) and the single crochet (sc)—into a unique stitch with exciting possibilities. Let’s begin with one of its most valuable features: the love knot is also a foundation stitch.

The LK as a foundation stitch As you read through these sections, try the swatches.

Choose a yarn and hook size suitable for exploring stitches comfortably. Try an H/8 (5 mm) hook and smooth, light-colored, medium-weight cotton, wool, or acrylic yarn. Pull yarn from the outside of the skein so that it’s not crin-kled. Make a slip knot and place it on your hook. Chain � ve.

back ridge loop

back loop(blo)

front loop(f lo)

Each chain stitch has three loops: the two top loops and the third bottom loop, which is often called the “bump of the ch” or “bottom ridge loop.” Turn over your � ve chains; if you can distinguish the “bump” loops from the � atter top loops of each chain, you’re ready to crochet a love knot.

Pull up the loop on your hook to about double its length—as if you could � t two of your crochet hooks into

Love Knot, Solomon’s knot—whatever you call it, you’ll be smitten with this sublime stitch

Vashti Braha

CROCHETCROCHET

32_CRSU13BeyondBasics-b.indd 32 5/9/13 1:29 PM


the loop instead of one. Now slide the �ngers holding the stitches you’ve made up to pinch the long loop at its base to keep it the length you choose. Yarn over and pull yarn through that loop to complete an elongated chain stitch. (All you did was make a loose chain on purpose, right?) Now insert your hook under the “bump” loop of the elongated ch. If you’re crocheting right-handed, it should be the leftmost loop of the three. Yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook; you have just made a single crochet.

You can make loose chains of any length to create a range of lacy looks. Like blowing up a balloon, you can add any amount of “air” (loop length) for the size “balloon” (LK) you wish. �e sc behaves like the knot in the balloon, to hold in the air.

You can even choose the shape of the “balloon.” For a round LK, pull up a loop ¼" to ¾" long. With most yarns, this creates an LK that stays the most in�ated. Looser than three-fourths inch elongates the LK into an oblong balloon. Go really loose and it collapses to give a languid, tropical air to LK lace.

Find the Sweet SpotLKs do not require perfection. In fact, slightly irregular LKs

are often preferable because they improve the loft of nearby ones. �e quiltlike quality of the Electra Wrap (page 47) is a good example of this.

�at said, aim for consistent LK lengths and notice what works for you. When crocheting, we use a blend of visual or tactile measuring shortcuts without thinking about it. Some crocheters feel the yarn for a sense of how tightly or loosely to crochet, instead of using the hook size. Some use a visual cue to remember which direction to yarn over. We vary in how much we pull up loops while making tall stitches such as double crochets.

Give yourself time to discover your unique LK visual or tactile sweet spot. Try this visual cue: Mark a target length on your hook, or �nger, or paper pattern. Periodically compare the long loop on your hook against it by pulling the loop taut on your hook to see its full length, and then

TOPANGA TUNIC Page 40. ZUMA SKIRT Page 41.


beyond the basics


complete the LK. Or try this tactile cue: Measure the width of your thumb or other �nger and use it as your target size; check the size of your LK by pinching it open.

For me, the most dependable cue for LKs of one inch is tactile: my ring �nger measures exactly an inch from its tip to the �rst joint wrinkle. My visual cue for LKs less than one inch is to gauge whether I could �t a second crochet hook in the loosened loop.

Most LK patterns specify an LK size in segments of an inch. Practice making a series of LKs using this pattern language: *Ch 5, **pull up loop on hook to ½", yo and pull through to complete ch, sc in bump of ch, rep from *. When you’re comfortable making the stitch, omit the ch 5 and rep from ** as desired. Try di�erent LK sizes and see which visual or tactile cues you prefer. Take some time to feel the love.

The Knotty Part of LK I think of the “knot” as the hug that holds all the “love,”

so the snugger the sc, the better. Sometimes, the knot loosens because of slippery yarn or the weight of beads and stitches. We can vary the amount of love; why not also vary the knots? Depending on the project, a di�erent stitch can be better than a single crochet for locking in the love.

I once used metallic embroidery �oss with beads for an LK necklace. Because of the slipperiness of the �oss and the weight of the beads, the sc knots loosened and looked messy. I needed a better knot for the LK. So, after complet-ing each LK knot with the sc, I chained one tightly and then worked a slip stitch in the sc. �is did the trick. Doris Chan’s Zuma Skirt (page 41) uses a similar technique: she uses a “lock-down” chain before and after the LK to anchor the knots so that they hold up to wear.

You could also alter the knot for decorative emphasis. Victorian crochet designers did this with LK mesh in thread. In the Sambuca Cord (page 37), pu� stitches replace the sc knots. In the Electra Wrap (page 47) and Sister Act Shawl and Shrug (page 44), some of the LKs are knotted with picots.

�e jewelry on pages 36 and 37 demonstrates a few ways to enhance LKs with beads and changes to the knots. �e thread used for these cords is a “cordonnet” type, with heirloom-quality �bers and plying; it supports the weight of beads and resists fraying and dulling. �is thread has the most twist, plies, and “body” (resilience) of all types of cotton crochet thread, so it may be surprising to crochet at �rst. It does keep LK fresh and plump.

Pouring On the LoveEach LK in a stitch pattern adds an air bubble and a hinge

for drape. Once we turn LKs into a lace fabric, the stitch gets more interesting. Upon close inspection of a century’s worth of LK mesh, I found a dozen di�erent kinds. Most look identical, but drape di�erently when worn. However, twenty or so logical and meaningful variations are not in the books at all.

�e iconic LK diamond mesh is reversible, translucent, and strong, yet seemingly weightless. It crochets quickly into fabric and makes most yarns look special. In addition, it’s stretchy. �ree designs in this issue make use of it: Dora Ohrenstein’s Topanga Tunic (page 40, swatch above), Doris Chan’s Zuma Skirt (page 41), and the Sister Act Shawl and Shrug (page 44). One reason for the subtle mesh variations is that LKs can take the place of foundation chains, turning chains to begin tall rows, and tall stitches to end rows. In some patterns, LKs of di�erent lengths are mixed together. Doubled-up LKs may be used for tall stitches. I try to avoid mixing LK lengths in designs, but I do enjoy doubled-up LKs along the sides of rows, so I o�er this method for shaping, below.

Favorite LK Mesh VersionMy basic all-purpose LK diamond mesh pattern is

worked in rows of LKs that are the same length. Only one row is repeated, so it’s easy to memorize. It uses sc for LKs and single joins (see Joining Method 1, below). All four sides have equal stretch and drape, so it’s well suited to shawls, scarves, and other clothing. For a garment requiring seaming, alternate Rows 2 and 3 of Sister Act (page 51) instead, because its mesh includes easy-to-seam tall stitches and chains along the row edges.

Foundation Row 1: With slip knot on hook, ch 1, sc in bump of ch, [2 LKs, ch 1] 5 times, 2 LKs: 12 LKs of reason-ably equal size.Row 2: Skip the 4 LKs nearest to your hook, sc in the 5th sc from your hook, *2 LKs, skip next sc, sc in next sc, repeat



from * across, 1 LK, ch 1, 2 LKs, turn: 5 diamond mesh spaces.Row 3: Sc in center sc of the first mesh space, *2 LKs, sc in center sc of next LK space, repeat from * to last 4 LKs, skip last sc join, sc in next sc of 4-LK mesh space, 1 LK, ch 1, 2 LKs, turn: 5 diamond mesh spaces.Row 4: Sc in center sc of the first mesh space, *2 LKs, sc in center sc of next mesh space, repeat from * to last 3-LK mesh space, skip last sc join, sc in next sc knot of space. One LK, ch 1, 2 LKs, turn.

Repeat Row 4 for pattern. Do not fasten o�; you can use this swatch for “Shaping the Mesh” below. Omit last [ch 1, 2 LKs] of last Row 4 repeat.

Shaping the Mesh: The Classic Love Triangle Here is a simple way to steadily decrease at both edges.

Decrease Row 1: Sc in the center sc of the �rst mesh space, *2 LKs, sc in sc of next mesh space, repeat from * across. One LK, turn.

Repeat Decrease Row 1 until row has only one mesh space.�ere are two di�erent ways to join LKs to other LKs. �e

methods vary subtly from each other. Joining Method 1: After completing an LK, sc into the sc knot of the designated LK in the pattern. This method is used for most designs in this issue (with minor variations). To reinforce the knot, sc into any three loops of the sc knot instead of two (see Electra or Sister Act), or use Doris Chan’s strategy described above.“Double Join” Method 2: After completing an LK, sc into the two top long lps just before the sc knot of the desig-nated LK, and sc again in the two top long lps just after the same sc knot. This method is well suited to crocheting LKs with super-extra-fine thread (size 80 and finer). It’s easier to

crochet into the long loops than into the sc, and the joining stitches hold them open for more drama on such a tiny stage. The lace may be stronger, too, because the stress at the joins is distributed over more strands.

Shown below are both joining methods side by side in size 10 thread. I chose a 1913 variation of Method 2 (swatch on the right) to show the greatest contrast between the two types. It uses hdc for the LK knots and dc for the double joins. �ese exaggerated double joins look �owery and delicate in the original size 80 thread.

Love Your StashIf a gossamer laceweight mohair yarn catches your eye

like it did mine, note that LK lace is the perfect low-risk way to experience it. Mohair yarn worked in LKs is easier to rip out, when necessary, than fabric worked in most other crochet stitches.

Even if you don’t have mohair yarns in your stash, you likely have a few other yummy yarns that have been waiting for the right inspiration. Perhaps luxury sock yarns with short or sudden color changes? Or an artsy handspun yarn? Try swatching up some LKs . . . and sprinkle in some beads. �

VASHTI BRAHA is a half-Irish girl who grew up in Wisconsin spin-ning her own yarn and dyeing it with marigolds. Visit www .designingvashti.com to learn about her popular crochet newsletter, classes, and Florida-inspired designs.

www.designingvashti.com/blog/love-knot-crochet-class-resourcesVashti’s Crochet Inspirations Newsletter, Issue 39, “Love Knot Research” at www.eepurl.com/kwhyrR

ESOURCES


http://www.eepurl.com/kwhyr

beyond the basics


SEAGRAPE CORD ANKLET Page 38.DRAGONFLY CORD Page 38.

Dragonfly, Seagrape, & Sambuca—three different looks, one technique

CROCHETCROCHET



SAMBUCA CORD NECKLACE Page 39.


beyond the basics


Dragon�y Cord

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 22" long.YARN Lizbeth Size 10 thread (100% Egyptian cotton; 122 yd [112 m]/¾ oz [25 g]; ): #664 ocean teal med, 1 ball. Thread distributed by Handy Hands.HOOK Size 4 (1.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle; 42 glass beads size 6o; one pair of eyeglass grips (optional).GAUGE 3 reps = 3". Gauge is not critical for this project.

NotesThe Dragonfly Cord is an example of using

pre-strung beads to emphasize the sc knot portion of the Love Knot (LK). Use standard jewelry fasteners in place of the eyeglass grips to make a necklace or bracelet instead.

Stitch GuideBeaded chain (bch): Push bead up to hook, yo and draw through lp. Bead is on the back ridge of ch.Beaded single crochet (bsc): Insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, push bead up to st, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook (bead secured).Love Knot (LK): Pull up lp on hook to ¼-⅜", yo and draw through lp to form loose ch, sc in back ridge of ch.

PatternString 42 beads onto thread.Leaving a 6" end, ch 1, sc in back ridge lp of ch, LK (see Stitch Guide), *ch 1, bch (see Stitch Guide), bsc flo in sc of LK just made (see Stitch Guide), 2 LK; rep from * until cord is desired length when slightly stretched, ending last rep with 1 LK. Fasten off leaving a 6" end. Photographed cord has 21 reps. FINISHINGTo make eyeglass cord, using ends, sew eyeglass grips or other fastener to each end. Weave in ends.Cord is designed to lie flat naturally with beads level on each side of knot. If uneven, spritz with water (do not drench), adjust sts and beads, and lay flat to dry.

Seagrape Cord Anklet

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 7" long excluding clasp.YARN Lizbeth Size 10 thread (100% Egyptian cotton; 122 yd [112 m]/¾ oz [25 g]; ): #680 spring green, 1 ball re-wound into two smaller balls. Thread distributed by Handy Hands.HOOK Size C/2 (2.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle; twenty 8 mm round resin beads; 40 glass beads size 6o; metal bracelet clasp. GAUGE 8 reps = 3". Gauge is not critical for this design.



NotesBracelet is worked holding 2 strands of thread tog throughout. The back ridge of the loose ch of the Love Knot (LK) is beaded. Turning after each LK staggers the beads and gives a vine-like look. It is best to crochet cord tightly.

Stitch GuideBeaded Love Knot (BLK): Pull up lp on hook to ¼", push 3 beads (small, large, small) up to st, yo and draw thread through lp (loose ch made), working above beads, sc in back ridge of ch.

PatternString beads in the foll sequence onto 2 strands of thread held tog: (1 small, 1 large, 1 small) 20 times. Leaving a 6" end, ch 1, sc in back ridge lp of ch, *BLK (see Stitch Guide), turn so that thread is behind hook, [sl st, hdc] in sc of LK just made; rep from * until desired length when slightly stretched. Fasten off leaving a 6" end.FINISHINGUsing ends, sew bracelet clasp or other fastener to each end. Weave in ends.Cord is designed to lie flat naturally, with beads falling to alternate sides. To eliminate twisting, spritz with water (do not drench) and lay flat to dry.

Sambuca Cord Necklace

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 19" excluding clasp.YARN Lizbeth Size 10 thread (100% Egyptian cotton; 122 yd [112 m]/¾ oz [25 g]; ): #622 pink med. Thread distrib-uted by Handy Hands.HOOK Size 4 (1.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle; 234 glass beads size 6/0; necklace clasp.GAUGE 3 reps = 3¼". Gauge is not critical for this design.

NotesThe Sambuca Cord is an example of filling

up all three strands of the Love Knot (LK)

with pre-strung beads. Puff Sts give the LK a fancier knot and help the 3 beaded strands to lie flat. It is best to crochet cord tightly.

Stitch GuidePuff st: [yo, pull up lp in designated st] 2 times, yo and draw through all 5 lps on hook. Beaded Long Loop Knot (BLLK): Pull up lp on hook to measure 1", push 10 beads close to st, yo and draw thread and all beads through lp, drop thread from hook and pull working thread to tighten ch. With working thread behind 10-bead lp, push 3 beads up to st, insert hook through lp, yo and pull up lp bet the center beads of 10-bead lp, yo, insert hook around 3-bead strand and pull up lp, yo, insert hook in 5-bead strand to left of 3-bead strand and pull up lp, yo and draw through all 5 lps on hook.

PatternCh 2, *puff st (see Stitch Guide) in back ridge lp of 2nd ch from hook, BLLK (see Stitch Guide), *ch 4, puff st in back ridge lp of 2nd ch from hook, BLLK; rep from * to desired length, ch 1. Fasten off leaving a 6" end.FINISHINGUsing ends, sew necklace clasp or other fastener to each end. Weave in ends.Cord is designed to lie flat naturally. If it twists, spritz with water (do not drench), spread out the beaded strands, and lay flat and untwisted to dry. �

FOR MORE PROJECTS USING THE LOVE KNOT check out pages 40–47 and see why this awesome stitch will be one of your favorites.

32_CRSU13BeyondBasics-b.indd 39 5/14/13 11:31 AM


TOPANGA TUNIC BY DORA OHRENSTEIN. Fine-weight linen is crocheted into a lovely � owing fabric with Solomon’s knots. The knots are also worked into the motifs at the border and minisleeves. Made in two pieces with raglan shaping, the tunic is seamed at the sides with single crochet added for structure. Yarn: Louet Euro-� ax Sport Weight. Page 48

An array of garments incorporat-ing the lover’s knot shows this ethereal stitch’s dynamic range. Malibu is the perfect backdrop for this � irty stitch.

40_CRSU13_CADreamin.indd 40 5/9/13 1:42 PM




ZUMA SKIRT BY DORIS CHAN. This seamless skirt begins with a waistband foundation worked sideways, in one step creating a pretty � nished edge, holes for threading a drawstring, and a starting round for the solid crochet fabric. Verti-cal lines of Solomon’s Knots act as gores, making a gentle curve at the hip and eventually kicking out the � ared hem. Yarn: Tahki Yarns Tahki Cotton Classic Lite (Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.). Page 49





SISTER ACT SHAWL AND SHRUG BY VASHTI BRAHA. Two small seams con-vert a shawl into a shrug—the swath is made of a vintage love knot pattern consisting of petite love knots set off with rows of double crochet. The alpaca-wool-Tencel blend yarn gives love knots a charming sheen and drape. Yarn: The Alpaca Yarn Company Astral. Page 51





Dahlia Shrug by Jenny King. Richly petaled � oral motifs are joined to create a garment that gives any out� t a pop of color and elegance. Yarn: Omega TKTK. Page XX

LOVE IS A ROSE SHAWL BY KATHRYN WHITE. A row of roses de� nes a swath of lover’s knots in this airy shawl. The shamrock dangles beg to frolic in an ocean breeze. This design was awarded � rst place for accessories in the 2012 Crochet Guild of America design contest. Yarn: Lorna’s Laces Helen’s Lace. Page 53



Palm Tunic by Cristina Mershon. This airy motif tunic dresses up or down with ease. Made in a cotton-bamboo blend that has both lightness and drape, it slides easily over a bathing suit during the day and over capris or a summer skirt in the evening. Yarn: Valley Yarns Southwick. Page XX.

ELECTRA WRAP BY VASHTI BRAHA. Two ethereal yarns are combined in a starry love knot mesh, result-ing in a heavenly cloud. The lacy

mohair love knots create quiltlike air bubbles, making this wrap warmer

than it looks. The reversible wrap, which incorporates strategies that

are handy to know when crocheting love knots, is edged as you crochet it

in one continuous piece. Yarn: S. Charles Collezione Luna,

S. Charles Collezione Crystal (Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.). Page 53



CA

Dre

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Topanga TunicDora Ohrenstein

PLUS SIZE

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 32½ (39, 42½, 52, 58½)" bust circumference; 35 (42, 49, 56, 63)" hip circumference. Garment shown measures 39", modeled with 5" ease. Garment is meant to be worn with 4–6" ease.YARN Louet Euro�ax Sport Weight (100% linen; 270 yd [247 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): rose, 2 (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins.HOOK Sizes C/2 (2.75 mm), D/3 (3.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Blocking pins; yarn needle.GAUGE Motif = 3" square with smaller

hook before blocking and 3½" square after blocking; 3 Solomon's Knot dia-monds = 3¼" with smaller hook.

NotesMotifs will not look flat until blocked. Solomon's Knot (SK) sts in motifs are

slightly smaller than those in body. For body, all SK sts should be same size, including those at side edges.

Space below the top motifs on sleeve forms a peek-a-boo hole over the upper arm.

If neckline is too wide, work a row of sc in SK on last row of Body. Use smaller hook, and experiment with number of sc (3 or 4) worked around each SK to tighten neckline sufficiently.

Motif bands are worked first. Front and back are worked up from bands separately. Sleeves are worked from motif edge up to shoulder and are set into armhole shaping. Side seams are sewn.

Stitch GuideSolomon's Knot (SK): Draw up lp to specified height, ch 1, insert hook under back strand of long lp, work sc to lock knot closed.First motif:Note: When making SK, draw up lp to ½".Ch 9, sl st in first ch to form ring.Rnd 1: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), *3 dc in

1

1

2

2

4

3

3

333

REPEAT

REDUCED SAMPLE OF SOLOMON’S KNOT PATTERN

REDUCED SAMPLE OF MOTIF STRIP

JOINING OFSECOND ANDSUCCESSIVE

MOTIFS

FIRST MOTIF

= chain (ch)

= slip st (sl st)




= Solomon’s Knot (SK)

Stitch Key

JOINING SLEEVE MOTIFS

joincorners

3

4 5

1

2 join

to

bo

dy

join

to

bo

dy

7½ (8¾, 8¾, 9¾, 10¾)" 19 (22, 22, 25, 27.5) cm

4¼ (5

½, 7

, 8¼

, 9¼

)"

11 (1

4, 1

8, 2

1, 2

3.5)

cm

20¾

(22,

23½

, 24¾

, 25¾

)"

52.5

(56,

59.

5, 6

3, 6

5.5)

cm

13"

33 c

m3½

" 9

cm

16¼ (19½, 22¾, 26, 29¼)" 41.5 (49.5, 58, 66, 74.5) cm

BACK AND FRONT

MOTIF STRIP

JOINING SLEEVE MOTIFS

17½ (21, 24½, 28, 31½)" 44.5 (53.5, 62, 71, 80) cm

50_CRSU13_CAdreamin.indd 48 5/9/13 2:05 PM


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ring, ch 1**, 3 dc in ring, ch 3; rep from * 3 times ending last rep at **, 2 dc in ring, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-6 to join—24 dc, 4 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-3 sps.Rnd 2: Sl st to next ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same ch-3 sp, *SK (see above), sk 3 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, SK**, sk 3 dc, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * 3 times ending last rep at **, sc in top of beg ch-3 to join—8 SK, 24 dc, 4 ch-1 sps.Rnd 3: *SK, sk 2 dc, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp, SK, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, 2 SK**, sc in next dc; rep from * 3 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of first sc to join—16 SK, 24 dc, 4 ch-3 sps. Fasten off.Second motif:Rnds 1–2: Rep Rnds 1–2 of first motif.Rnd 3: *SK, sk 2 dc, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp, SK, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, 2 SK, sc in next dc; rep from * once, SK, 3 dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sl st in any corner ch-3 sp of first motif, 3 dc in same ch-1 sp of 2nd motif, SK, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, SK, sc in sc bet 2 SK at side of first motif, SK, sc in next dc of 2nd motif, SK, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sl st in next corner ch-3 sp of first motif, 3 dc in same ch-1 sp of 2nd motif, SK, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, 2 SK, sl st in top of first sc to join. Fasten off.Subsequent motifs:Work same as 2nd motif, joining in last rnd to prev motif.

PatternMOTIF STRIPS (MAKE 2)With smaller hook, make and join 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) motifs (see Stitch Guide). Wet block strips, pinning each motif at ch-3 corners to measure 3½" square.FRONT/BACK (MAKE 2)Note: When making SK sts, draw up lp to ¾". 6 SK are worked along each motif. On WS rows, the first SK in the row forms the side edge.With RS facing and smaller hook, join yarn with sl st in top right corner of motif strip. Row 1: (RS) Work sc in same ch-3 corner, *2 SK (see Stitch Guide), sk 3 dc and SK, sc in next sc, 2 SK, sk 2 SK, sc in next sc, 2 SK, sc in join bet 2 motifs; rep from * across all motifs, placing last sc in last ch-3 corner, turn—30

(36, 42, 48, 54) SK.Row 2: 2 SK, sk 1 SK, sc in next sc, 2 SK, sk 2 SK, sc in next sc; rep from * to last SK, SK, tr in last sc, turn. Row 3: *2 SK, sk 2 SK, sc in next sc; rep from * across, turn.Row 4: Rep Row 2 to last st, tr in tr of Row 2, turn.Rows 5–24: Rep Rows 3–4.Armhole shaping:Row 25: *2 SK, sk 2 SK, sc in next sc; rep from * to last 2 SK, SK, tr in top of side SK, turn—29 (35, 41, 47, 53) SK, 1 tr. Row 26: *2 SK, sk 2 SK, sc in next sc; rep from * to last 3 SK (of prev row), SK, sk 2 SK, tr in next sc, turn—2 SK dec. Rows 27–32 (34, 37, 39, 41): Rep Row 26—15 (17, 17, 19, 21) SK, 1 tr.Note: The next row creates a flat edge across the top.Last row: *SK, sk 2 SK, sc in next sc; rep from * across—7 (8, 8, 9, 10) SK. Fasten off.SLEEVESWith smaller hook, make and join 5 motifs, foll diagram for placement.FINISHINGWet block sleeves to flatten motifs.

Edging:With RS facing and larger hook, join yarn with sl st at top left corner of back, ch 1, working along armhole edge, work 3 sc around each row edge (whether an SK or a tr) along armhole, cont down side of back to motif strip, working 3 sc around each SK and 1 sc at join bet 2 SK. Do not work any sc along motifs. Fasten off.Rejoin yarn at bottom right side of back in first row of SK, work 3 sc around each tr, and 1 sc at join bet 2 SK, cont to armhole, work 3 sc in each row edge to top of armhole. Fasten off.Rep edging on front.Join sleeves:Sizes 32½ (39)" only:With RS facing and smaller hook, join yarn with sl st in first sc at top left corner of back.Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same sc, SK, sc in corner of motif 1 of sleeve, *SK, sk 2 (3) sc on back, sc in next sc, SK, sk 2 dc on motif, sc in

next dc, SK, sk 2 (3) sc on back, sc in next sc, SK, sc in join bet next 2 SK on motif, SK, sk 3 (3) sc on body, sc in next sc, SK, sc in next dc on motif; rep from * across motif 2 of sleeve, SK, sc in last sc on body, SK, sc in ch-3 corner of motif 2. Fasten off.Sizes 42½ (52, 58½)" only:With RS facing and smaller hook, join yarn with sl st in first sc at top left corner of back.Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same sc, [2 SK, sk 3 sc, sc in next sc] 7 times, turn leaving rem sts unworked—14 SK.Row 2: SK, sc in corner of motif 1 of sleeve, SK, sk 1 SK on body, sc in next sc, *SK, sk 2 dc on motif, sc in next dc, SK, sk 2 SK on body, sc in next sc, SK, sc in join bet next 2 SK on motif, SK, sk 2 SK on body, sc in next sc, SK, sc in next dc on motif, SK, sk 2 SK on body, sc in next sc; rep from * across motif 2 of sleeve, SK, sc in ch-3 corner of motif 2. Fasten off. All sizes:With WS facing, join yarn at top corner of front and join opposite side of sleeve as for first side. Rep for 2nd sleeve.Sew side seams. Weave in ends. �

Zuma SkirtDoris Chan

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 27 (31½, 36, 40½)" waist circumference; 33 (37½, 42, 46½)" hip circumference; 22½ (22½, 23½, 23½)" long, including waistband. Garment shown measures 31½".YARN Tahki Yarns Tahki Cotton Classic Lite (100% mercerized cotton; 146 yd [135 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #4461 light plum 5 (6, 7, 8) hanks. Yarn distributed by Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.HOOK Sizes 7 (4.5 mm); G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle.GAUGE 18 sts and 9 rows = 4½" in base patt with larger hook; 1 love knot column = 1" wide.



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NotesSkirt is worked in joined, turned rnds from

waist to hem. A sideways-worked waistband provides foundation lps. Fabric is stretchy, allowing for some waist and hip ease for each size. After a slim hip, six gores worked in a love knot design are added for a gentle flare. Each inc rnd adds a love knot column to each gore. It takes 1 sc (bottom love knot) and 1 tr (top love knot) patt rnd to complete 1 love knot rnd.

To lengthen or shorten skirt, you may add or omit rnds at the hip fit points. You cannot omit rnds at end of skirt but you can add rnds before edging is worked.

Stitch GuideBase patt: Ch any number of sts.Row 1: Ch 1, sc across, turn.Row 2: Ch 4, tr across, turn.Rep Rows 1–2 for patt.3 double crochet cluster (3-dc cl): [Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times, yo and draw through all 4 lps on hook.Bottom double love knot (bottom dbl-lk): Always worked in sc rnd. Ch 1 tightly to secure, draw up lp to ½" length, yo, keeping single strand same length as long lp, draw through long lp, insert hook bet long lp and single strand, yo and draw through single strand, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook

(knot secured with sc), ch 1 tightly to secure, draw up lp to ½" length, yo, keeping single strand same length as long lp, draw through long lp, insert hook bet long lp and single strand, yo and draw through single strand and lp on hook as if to sl st (knot secured with sl st), tighten sl st.Top double love knot (top dbl-lk): Al-ways worked in tr rnd. *Ch 1 tightly to secure, draw up lp to ½" length, yo, keeping single strand same length as long lp, draw through long lp, insert hook bet long lp and single strand, yo and draw through single strand and lp on hook as if to sl st (knot secured with sl st), tighten sl st*, sc in indicated st or sp, rep from * to *.Bottom 1 rnd: (WS) Ch 1, sc in first tr, [*bottom dbl-lk, sk top dbl-lk of last rnd, sc in next 3 tr; rep from * for each top dbl-lk of last rnd, ch 3, sc to next top dbl-lk] 6 times, sl st in first sc to join, turn—6 gores, each with an additional love knot column setup.Bottom 2 rnd: (WS) Ch 1, sc in first tr, [*bottom dbl-lk, sk top dbl-lk of last rnd, sc in next 3 tr; rep from * for each top dbl-lk of last rnd, ch 3, sk next tr, sc to next top dbl-lk] 6 times, sl st in first sc to join, turn—6 gores, each with an additional love knot column setup.Top rnd: (RS) Ch 4, sk first sc, [tr to next ch-3 sp, top dbl-lk in ch-3 sp, *tr in next 3 sc, top dbl-lk in center sc of last bottom dbl-lk; rep from * for each bottom dbl-lk of last rnd] 6

times, sl st in top of beg ch-4, turn—6 gores, each with completed love knot columns.

PatternSKIRTWaistband:With smaller hook, working firmly, beg as foll:Row 1: (WS) Ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, turn.Row 2: (RS) Ch 5, 3-dc cl (see Stitch Guide) in first sc, turn.Row 3: Ch 1 and tighten, sc in top of 3-dc cl, turn.Rows 4–72 (84, 96, 108): Rep Rows 2–3 34 (40, 46, 52) times, then rep Row 2—36 (42, 48, 54) ch-5 sps. Waistband measures about 27 (31½, 36, 40½)". Join ends with sl st in bottom of beg sc to form a ring, being careful not to twist.Waist:Rnd 1: (RS) With larger hook and RS of waistband facing with ch-5 sps at top, sl st in first ch-5 sp, ch 1, 3 sc in same ch-5 sp, 3 sc in each ch-5 sp around, sl st in first sc to join, turn—108 (126, 144, 162) sc.Rnd 2: (WS) Ch 1, sk first sc, sc around, sc in last sc, sl st in first sc to join, turn.Rnd 3: Ch 4 (counts as tr in first sc through-out), tr in each sc around, sl st in top of beg ch-4, turn—108 (126, 144, 162) tr.Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in first tr, sc in each tr around, sl st in first sc to join, turn.

repeat

8

9

Bottom 2

Top

repeat

8

9

Bottom 1

Top

Bottom 1Love Knot Column

Bottom 1

= chain (ch)

= slip st (sl st)


= bottom dbl-lk


= top dbl-lk

Stitch Key

Bottom 2

27 (31½, 36, 40½)" 68.5 (80, 91.5, 103) cm

33 (37½, 42, 46½)" 84 (95, 106.5, 118) cm

63 (67½, 78, 82½)" 160 (171.5, 198, 209.5) cm

9"

23 c

m13

½ (1

3½, 1

4½, 1

4½)"

34

.5 (3

4.5,

37,

37)

cm



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Rnd 5: Rep Rnd 3.Shape hip:Rnd 6: (WS) Ch 1, sc in first tr, [ch 3, sc in next 18 (21, 24, 27) tr] 6 times, omitting last sc, sl st in first sc to join, turn—6 ch-3 sps, 18 (21, 24, 27) sc bet.Rnd 7: (RS) Ch 4, sk first sc, tr in next 17 (20, 23, 26) sc to next ch-3 sp, [top dbl-lk in ch-3 sp (see Stitch Guide), tr in next 18 (21, 24, 27) sc to next ch-3 sp] 5 times to last ch-3 sp, top dbl-lk in last ch-3 sp, sl st in top of beg ch-4, turn—6 gores, each with 1 top dbl-lk column, 18 (21, 24, 27) tr bet gores.Rnd 8 (bottom): Ch 1, sc in first tr, [bottom dbl-lk (see Stitch Guide), sk next top dbl-lk, sc to next top dbl-lk] around, omitting last sc, sl st in first sc to join, turn—a bottom dbl-lk over each last top dbl-lk.Rnd 9 (top): Ch 4, sk first sc, [tr to next bottom dbl-lk, top dbl-lk in center sc of last bottom dbl-lk] around, sl st in top of beg ch-4, turn—each love knot complete.Rnds 10–17: Rep Rnds 8–9 four times.Rnd 18 (inc): (WS) Ch 1, sc in first tr, [bot-tom dbl-lk, sk top dbl-lk of last rnd, sc in next 3 tr, ch 3, sk 0 (0, 0, 1) tr, sc to next top dbl-lk] 6 times, sl st in first sc to join, turn—6 gores,

each with 2nd love knot column setup, 15 (18, 21, 23) sc rem bet gores.Rnd 19: (RS) Ch 4, sk first sc, [tr to next ch-3 sp, top dbl-lk in ch-3 sp, tr in next 3 sc, top dbl-lk in center sc of last bottom dbl-lk] 6 times, sl st in top of beg ch-4, turn—6 gores, each with 2 completed love knot columns.Rnds 20–27 (20–27, 20–25, 20–25): Rep Rnds 8–9 four (four, three, three) times.Fit Point: Lengthen or shorten here before next inc by adding or omitting rep of Rnds 8–9 for length desired (see Notes).Size 27" only:Rnds 28–29: Work Bottom 1 rnd (see Stitch Guide), then Top rnd (see Stitch Guide)—3 love knot columns each gore, 12 sts rem bet gores.Rnds 30–31: Rep Rnds 8–9.Rnds 32–43: Rep last 4 rnds 3 times—6 love knot columns each gore, 3 sts rem bet gores.Size 31½" only:Rnds 28–29: Work Bottom 1 rnd, then Top rnd—3 love knot columns each gore, 15 sts rem bet gores.Rnds 30–31: Rep Rnds 8–9. Rnds 32–33: Work Bottom 2 rnd, then Top rnd—4 love knot columns each gore, 11 sts rem bet gores.Rnds 34–35: Rep Rnds 8–9.Rnds 36–43: Rep last 4 rnds 2 times—6 love knot columns each gore, 3 sts rem bet gores.Size 36" only:Rnds 26–27: Work Bottom 1 rnd, then Top rnd—3 love knot columns each gore, 18 sts rem bet gores.Rnds 28–29: Rep Rnds 8–9.Rnds 30–33: Rep last 4 rnds once—4 love knot columns each gore, 15 sts rem bet gores.Rnds 34–35: Work Bottom 2 rnd, then Top rnd—5 love knot columns each gore, 11 sts rem bet gores.Rnds 36–37: Rep Rnds 8–9.Rnds 38–45: Rep last 4 rnds 2 times—7 love knot columns each gore, 3 sts rem bet gores.Size 40½" only:Rnds 26–27: Work Bottom 2 rnd, then Top rnd—3 love knot columns each gore, 19 sts rem bet gores.Rnds 28–29: Rep Rnds 8–9.Rnds 30–45: Rep last 4 rnds 4 times—7 love knot columns each gore, 3 sts rem bet gores.All sizes:After last rnd, do not turn.Next rnd (edge): (RS) Ch 2, sk first tr, dc2tog (see Glossary) in next 2 tr, [ch 5, 3-dc cl in center sc of next top dbl-lk, ch 5, dc3tog (see Glossary) in next 3 tr] around, omitting last dc3tog, sl st in top of beg dc2tog. Fasten off.FINISHINGDrawstring: With smaller hook, working firmly, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, sc flo in last sc; rep from * until string measures about 40 (45, 50, 55)". Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block. Weave drawstring through ch-5 sps of waistband. �

Sister Act Shawl and ShrugVashti Braha

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE Scarf (unseamed): About 8 (8, 10)" wide and 69 (72, 78)" long. Vest, blocked and hung (as worn): 12 (13½, 15)" center back width and 18 (18, 20)" long from back neck to hem with collar unfolded. Sample shown in smallest size.YARN The Alpaca Yarn Company Astral (50% tencel, 30% alpaca, 20% merino; 197 yd [180 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #8532 Aires or #8100 white, 2 (3, 4) skeins.HOOK Size H/8 (5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle; �ve st markers (m) for vest option. GAUGE 10 dc = 3" and 8 rows = 3¾" in lace patt.

NotesMake all LK ½" long. Keep a small gauge or

ruler nearby while crocheting to check the size of your LK.

Shrug beg as a rectangular scarf worked lengthwise.

Long sides are edged with a combination of love knots and picots. The first edge row is worked into one side of foundation row, then patt for the rest of wrap is worked into other side of foundation row.

Sc into 3 strands of the sc of a LK, instead of the usual 2, to prevent LK from loosening in a slippery yarn (see article on page 40).

Shrug is stretchy and worn open in front. It is designed to look closer-fitting across back while having extra wearing ease at neck for a draping collar, and at the shoulders and armholes for a comfortable fit.

Stitch GuideLove Knot (LK): *Pull up lp on hook to ½", yo and pull through lp to complete a long ch, sc in the bottom ridge lp of ch to "knot" it. For a LK pair, rep from * once.Picot: Ch 3, sl st in side of sc of LK just made.



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Main body st patt (multiple of 5 sts + 3):Ch 28, turn.Row 1: (RS) Dc in 4th ch from hook (first 3 ch

count as dc), dc in each ch across, turn—26 dc.Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *2 LK (see Stitch Guide), sk 4 dc, sc in next dc; rep from * across, turn—5 LK pairs.Row 3: Ch 4, LK, sc in center sc of first LK pair, *2 LK, sc in center sc of next LK pair; rep from * to last sc of row, LK, tr in last sc, turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in tr, *ch 4, sc in center sc of next LK pair; rep from * across, end with ch 4, sc in top of ch-4, turn—5 ch-4 sps.Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in first ch-4 sp, *dc in next sc, 4 dc in next ch-4 sp; rep from * across, end with dc in last sc, turn—26 dc.Rep Rows 2–5 for patt.

PatternSHAWL AND SHRUGIf you will not be seaming scarf into a vest, foll patt for smallest size.Ch 227 (257, 287).Set-up row: Note: forms part of edging later. (RS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *2 LK (see Stitch Guide), sk 4 ch, sc in next ch; rep from * across, ch 1, sl st in same ch as last sc, rotate (instead of turning) to crochet along other edge of foundation ch—45 (51, 57) LK pairs.Row 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in first ch-4 sp (around 4 skipped ch), *dc in free lp of next ch that has sc in it, 4 dc in next ch-4 sp; rep from * across, end with dc in free lp of last ch, turn—226 (256, 286) dc.Rows 2–14 (14, 18): Work Rows 2–5 of main body st patt (see Stitch Guide) 3 (3, 4) times, then rep Row 2.Row 15 (15, 19): Ch 7, sl st in 3rd ch from hook for picot, LK, sc in center sc of first LK

pair, *LK, picot (see Stitch Guide), LK, sc in center sc of next LK pair; rep from * to last sc, LK, tr in last sc, ch 3, sl st in tr. FINISHINGTo �nish as a shawl:Fasten off. Join yarn with sl st to first sc of set-up row with RS of scarf facing, and rep Row 15.Fasten off and weave in ends. Block gently to preserve the loft of the LK while evenly spacing the dc sts.To �nish as a Shrug:Before seaming, foll blocking instructions above for scarf.Seam collar at back neck: Fasten off with a 30" tail and seam 2 short edges of scarf tog as invisibly as possible so that the back of collar may be worn turned down or up when desired. Place five m along set-up row edge: In 5th (6th, 7th) LK pair on each side of seam to mark seam across back; in 23rd (26th, 29th) LK pair to mark center back, and in 4th (5th, 6th) LK pair on each side of center back for seaming. The 13 (14, 15) unmarked LK pairs form the armholes and will not be seamed.With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in center sc of marked 5th (6th, 7th) LK pair from seam. Work all seaming sl sts into center sc of each LK pair bet and including marked sts: LK, sl st in marked LK pair that is 4th (5th, 6th) from center back, *LK, sl st in next LK pair near

BEFORE SEAMING

AFTER SEAMING(back view)

C C A B

C A B

B

join

to

o

pp

osi

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nd

sem

aed

leave open for armhole

armholeseamed seamedarmhole

join join

leave open for armhole

join

to

o

pp

osi

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nd

BOLERO SCHEMATIC

12 (13½, 15)" 30.5 (34.25, 38) cm

10 (1

0¾, 1

1½)"

25

.5 (2

7.25

, 29.

25) c

m18

(18,

20)

" 45

.75

(45.

75, 5

0.75

) cm



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seam, LK, sl st in next LK pair near center back; rep from * to seam rem LK pairs to next armhole. Do not fasten off.Armhole edge: With attached yarn at seam, *LK, picot, LK, sc in center sc of next LK pair; rep from * around armhole to seam, LK, picot, LK, sc in sc of nearest seamed sc. Fasten off. Join yarn to other end of seam and rep armhole edging. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block seams and edgings. �

Electra WrapVashti Braha

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 18" wide and 61" long.YARN S. Charles Collezione Crystal (85% polyester, 15% cotton; 144 yd [131 m]/¾ oz [25 g]; ): #11 (light blue with light blue sequins), 3 skeins. S. Charles Collezione Luna (71% super kid mohair, 20% silk, 9% lurex; 232 yd [212 m]/¾ oz [25 g]; ): #25 blue moon, 2 skeins. Yarns distributed by Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.HOOK Size H/8 (5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle.GAUGE 4 sts = 5" and 8 rows = 4½" in patt.

NotesWrap is worked with one strand of each

yarn held tog throughout.Long sides of wrap are edged with a

combination of LK and picots. One edging row is worked along one side of foundation row, then wrap patt is worked on other side of foundation row.

LK are worked into 3 lps of a sc (top 2 lps and 1 vertical bar) to reinforce st. (See LK article on page 40 for more about this technique.)

Stitch GuideLove Knot (LK): Draw up lp on hook to 1", yo and draw through lp, insert hook from front

to back bet the back lp of the ch and the front 2 lps, yo and draw through lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook.Double Love Knot (DLK): *Draw up lp on hook to 1", yo and draw through lp, insert hook from front to back bet the back lp of the ch and the front 2 lps, yo and draw through lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook; rep from * once.Picot Love Knot Pair (PLK): 1 LK (see above), ch 3, sl st in sc of LK just worked, 1 LK.

PatternWRAPFoundation row: Ch 1, [LK (see Stitch Guide), ch 1] 47 times—47 LK.Edging row: Working across bottom of foundation row, with bottom of foundation row facing up, sk first ch and sc, [PLK (see Stitch Guide), sc in next sc] across to last LK, PLK, insert hook from front to back bet the back lp of the ch and the front 2 lps of last ch, yo and draw through lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook, rotate to work in other side of foundation row—47 PLK.Row 1: DLK (see Stitch Guide), sk long lps of first foundation LK, sc in sc of same foundation LK, [DLK, sc in unused lps of next foundation LK] across, turn—47 DLK.Row 2: LK, sk first sc on first DLK, sc in both top lps plus vertical bar (see Notes) of next sc of same DLK, *1 LK, sk first sc on next DLK, sc in 3 lps of next sc of same DLK; rep from * across, turn—47 LK.Row 3: DLK, sc in same st, [DLK, sc in same lps as next sc] across, turn.Row 4: DLK, sk first sc on first DLK, sc in next sc of same DLK, [LK, sk next sc in next DLK, sc in next sc of same DLK] across, turn.

Row 5: DLK, sk long lps of first LK, sc in same lps as first sc of LK, [DLK, sc in same lps as next sc] across, turn.Row 6: LK, sk first sc on first DLK, sc in next sc of same DLK, [LK, sk next sc in next DLK, sc in next sc of same DLK] across, turn.Rows 7–28: Rep Rows 3–6 five times, then rep Rows 3–4.Row 29 (Edge): Sk long lps of first founda-tion LK, [PLK, sc in same lps as next sc] across: 47 picots. Fasten off.FINISHINGWeave in ends. Block lightly. �

Love Is a Rose ShawlKathryn White

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 62" wide, 30" deep.YARN Lorna’s Laces Helen’s Lace [50% silk 50% wool hand dyed; 1,250 yd [1,138 m]/4 oz [114 g]; ): #412 Campbell, 1 skein. HOOK Size E/4 (3.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle; st markers (m).GAUGE 9 Love Knots = 5" and 8 rows = 4".

NotesBack neck triangle of LK is worked from

point to back neck, then row-ends of triangle are picked up, inc at center point, and shawl is worked down to point, inc at center and edges.

Stitch GuideLove Knot (LK): Pull up lp on hook to ½", yo and draw yarn through lp (loose ch made), sc in back ridge lp of ch. LKsc: When instructed to work in LKsc, work in sc at top of LK. Extended treble crochet (etr): Yo 2 times, insert hook in st indicated and pull up lp, yo and draw through 1 lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times. Shamrock: Ch 5, sl st in the 3rd ch from hook to form ring, ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc) 3 times in ring, sc in same ring, sl st in rem 2 ch.Picot: Ch 3, sl st in top of st just made.

48_CRSU13_CAdreamin.indd 53 5/14/13 11:32 AM


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Love knot swatch:Row 1: Ch 54, LK (see above), sk first 7 ch, sc in next ch, [2 LK, sk next 5 ch, sc in next ch] 7 times, LK, sk next 3 ch, tr in last ch, turn. Row 2: [2 LK, sk next LKsc, sc in next LKsc] 7 times, 2 LK, sk next LKsc, sc in next ch, turn.Row 3: Ch 4, LK, sc in next LKsc, [2 LK, sk next LKsc, sc in next LKsc] 7 times, LK, dtr (see Glossary) in tr on Row 1, turn.Row 4: [2 LK, sk next LKsc, sc in next LKsc] 7 times, 2 LK, sk next LKsc, sc in tch, turn.Row 5: Ch 4, LK, sc in next LKsc, [2 LK, sk next LKsc, sc in next LKsc] 7 times, LK, dtr in dtr, turn.Rows 6–9: Rep Rows 4–5 two times.Row 10: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 5, sk next LKsc,

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Reduced sample shawl patt back neck

= chain (ch)






= extended treble crochet (etr)

= Love Knot (LK)

Stitch Key

= chain (ch)






= extended treble crochet (etr)

= Love Knot (LK)

Shamrock

48_CRSU13_CAdreamin.indd 54 5/14/13 11:33 AM

with Easy-to-Crochet, Affordable Projects

Crochet for the Home:25 Clever Projects for Colorful LivingBrett Bara144 Pages, $22.95ISBN: 978-1-59668-837-7

Add Color & CheerTO YOUR HOME

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sc in next LKsc] 7 times, ch 5, sc in tch, turn.Edging: Ch 1, sc in same st, 5 sc in next 8 ch-5 sps, sc in next dtr, working in row-ends: 5 sc around post of next 4 dtr, 5 sc around post of next tr, working in beg ch: sc in first ch, 3 sc in next ch-3 sp, 5 sc in next 7 ch-5 sps, 3 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in corner ch; working in row-ends, 5 sc in next 5 ch-4 sps, sl st in first sc of edging. Fasten off. Block.

Pattern Row 1: Ch 4, (tr, ch 5, 2 tr) in 4th ch from hook; turn. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as etr throughout), etr (see Stitch Guide) in sp before next tr, LK (see Stitch Guide), sc in ch-5 sp, LK, 2 etr in sp bet last 2 tr, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, etr in sp before next etr, LK, sc in next LKsc (see Stitch Guide), 2 LK, sk next sc, sc in next LKsc, LK, 2 etr in sp bet last 2 etr, turn. Rows 4–35: Ch 3, etr in sp before next etr, LK, sc in next LKsc, [2 LK, sk next LKsc, sc in next LKsc] to last 2 sts, LK, 2 etr bet last 2 etr, turn. Row 36: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next etr, ch 5, *sk next LKsc, sc in next LKsc, ch 5; rep from * to last 2 etr, sc in last 2 etr. Row 37: Ch 3, rotate work, working in row-ends, sk first row, 4 tr in end of next 35 rows, 5 tr in base of Row 1, place marker (pm) in center tr of 5-tr group, 4 tr in end of next 35 rows, tr in next sc, turn. Row 38: Ch 4, sk next tr, tr in next tr, [ch 1, sk next tr, tr in next tr] to marked tr, (ch 1, tr) 4 times in next tr, ch 1, [tr in next tr, ch 1, sk next tr] to last tr, tr in last tr. Fasten off. First rose:Ch 4, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 12 sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join—12 sc.Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 2, *sk next sc, sc in next sc, ch 2; rep from * around; sl st in first sc to join—6 ch-sps, 6 sc.Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc, 5 dc, sc) in next 4 ch-2 sps, (sc, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, with RS facing, sl st in first ch-1 sp on side of shawl, (2 dc, sc) in same sp on rose, (sc, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, sk next ch-1 sp on shawl, sl st in next ch-1 sp, (2 dc, sc) in same sp on rose; sl st in first sc to join—6 petals. Fasten off. Roses 2–15:Rnds 1–2: Work same as first rose.Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc, 5 dc, sc) in next 3 ch-2 sps, (sc, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, with RS facing, sl st in 3rd dc of petal of previous rose, (2 dc, sc) in same sp on rose, (sc, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, sk next 2 ch-1 sps on shawl, sl st in next ch-1 sp, (2 dc, sc) in same sp on rose, (sc, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, sk next ch-1 sp on shawl, sl st in next ch-1 sp, (2 dc, sc) in same sp on rose, sl st in first sc to join—6 petals. Fasten off.

Rose 16:Rnds 1–2: Work same as first rose.Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc, 5 dc, sc) in next 4 ch-2 sps, (sc, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, with RS facing, sl st in 3rd dc on petal of previous rose, (2 dc, sc) in same sp on rose, (sc, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, sk next ch-1 sp on shawl, sl st in next ch-1 sp, (2 dc, sc) in same sp on rose; sl st in first sc to join—6 petals. Fasten off. Rose 17:Rnds 1–2: Work same as first rose.Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc, 5 dc, sc) in next 3 ch-2 sps, (sc, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, with RS facing, sl st in 3rd dc on petal of previous rose, (2 dc, sc) in same sp on rose, (sc, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, sl st in next ch-1 sp on shawl, (2 dc, sc) in same sp on rose, (sc, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, sk next ch-1 sp on shawl, sl st in next ch-1 sp, (2 dc, sc) in same sp on rose; sl st in first sc to join—6 petals. Fasten off. Roses 18–31:Rnds 1–2: Work same as first rose.Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc, 5 dc, sc) in next 3 ch-2 sps, (sc, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, with RS facing, sl st in the 3rd dc on petal of previous rose, (2 dc, sc) in same sp on rose, (sc, 3 dc) in next ch-2

sp, sl st in next ch-1 sp on shawl, (2 dc, sc) in same sp on rose, (sc, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, on rose #31, pm in last dc made, sk next ch-1 sp on shawl, sl st in next ch-1 sp, (2 dc, sc) in same sp on rose; sl st in first sc to join—6 petals. Fasten off. Cont shawl:Row 39: With RS facing, join yarn in marked dc, ch 1, sc in same st, ch 4, sc in 3rd dc of next petal, ch 8, sc in 3rd dc on next petal, [ch 4, sc in 3rd dc of next petal, ch 5, sc in 3rd dc of next petal on next rose] 15 times, ch 4, 3 sc in 3rd dc of next petal, [ch 4, sc in 3rd dc of next petal, ch 5, sc in 3rd dc of next petal on next rose] 15 times, ch 4, sc in 3rd dc of next petal, ch 8, sc in 3rd dc of next petal, ch 4, sc in 3rd dc of next petal. Fasten off. Row 40: With WS facing, join yarn with sl st in 3rd ch of first ch-8 on Row 39; ch 4, tr in same st, (ch 1, tr) 2 times in ch-5 sp, *(ch 1, tr) 2 times in next ch-4 sp, (ch 1, tr) 3 times in next ch-5 sp**; rep from * 14 times, (ch 1, tr) 2 times in next ch-4 sp, sk next sc, (ch 1, tr) 4 times in next sc, pm in center ch-1 sp; rep from * to ** 15 times, (ch 1, tr) 2 times in next ch-4 sp, (ch 1, tr) 2 times in next ch-8 sp, (ch 1, tr) 2 times in 5th ch of ch-8, turn. Row 41: Ch 3, tr in same st, [tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in next tr] to marked ch-1 sp, 5 tr in next ch-1 sp, move m to center tr of 5-tr group, [tr in next tr, tr in next ch-1 sp] to last tr, 2 tr in last tr, turn—337 tr. Row 42: Ch 3, etr in same st, LK, sk next 2 tr, sc in next tr, [2 LK, sk next 4 tr, sc in next tr] to center tr, 2 LK, move m to center LKsc of 2 LK just made, sc in same tr, [2 LK, sk next 4 tr, sc in next tr] to last 3 tr, LK, sk next 2 tr, 2 etr in next tr, turn.Rows 43–52: Ch 3, etr in sp before next st, LK, sc in next LKsc, [2 LK, sk next LKsc, sc in next LKsc] to marked st, 2 LK, move m to center LKsc of 2 LK just made, sc in same LKsc, [2 LK, sk next LKsc, sc in next LKsc] to last 2 etr, LK, 2 etr in sp bet last 2 etr, turn. Row 53: Ch 3, etr in sp before next etr, shamrock (see Stitch Guide), sl st in last etr made, LK, sc in next LKsc, *LK, shamrock, sl st in last LKsc made, LK, sk next LKsc, sc in next LKsc**; rep from * 43 times, LK, shamrock, sl st in last LKsc made, LK, sc in same LKsc; rep from * to ** 44 times, LK, shamrock, sl st in last LKsc made, 2 etr bet last 2 etr. Fasten off.Top edge:Row 1: With WS facing, join yarn with sl st in first LKsc at top corner: ch 2, dc in same st, 5 dc around each of next 12 etr, 5 dc around each of next 2 tr, 5 dc in next 2 ch-4 sps, 5 dc around each of next 2 tr, 5 dc in each ch-5 sp to next tr, 5 dc around each of next 2 tr, 5 dc in next 2 ch-4 sps, 5 dc around each of next 2 tr, 5 dc around each of next 12 etr, 2 dc in next LKsc, turn—359 dc. Row 2: Ch 1, (sc, picot) in same st, *sc in next dc, (sc, picot) in next dc; rep from * across. Fasten off. FINISHINGWeave in ends. Block. �


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057_CRSU13.indd 57 5/9/13 2:10 PM


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Vickie Howell for Bernat

I’m writing this during a time that, for me, encapsulates the “Busy Moms” theme of this column. I’m juggling an unre-alistic schedule with taking care of a child with health issues, making sure my other children don’t feel neglected, running my business on the go, and checking in with my spouse about his day. All the while, I’m dreaming of quiet time with yarn and hook. Crochet, take me away!

I know I’m not alone. You’ve had those days, those weeks, those months—right? Well, my crocheters-in-arms, that’s why this column is here. To give you the nod of appreciation you deserve and a project that’s small enough to be stress-free but lovely enough to bring you a bit of joy: the Babylace Sundress.

Inspired by the vintage pillowcase dresses that grace Pinterest, I wanted to create a simple piece that transforms a bit of a frock’s edging into an entire garment. � e result is a lacy and timeless piece that can be worn over a onesie or on its own with bloomers or leggings. It’s easy-breezy and pretty. It gets a modern edge from its color, Seersucker, in the brand-new yarn Bernat Cotton-ish by Vickie Howell.

I think I can hear your hook already, gliding, gliding along on your new Babylace Sundress.

Have fun and enjoy!

P.S. Share your � nished Babylace in the readers’ photo gallery on Crochet Me or on Facebook (follow me at facebook.com/vickiehowell).

All the Pretty Dresses

.comOnline at

Vickie shares her favorite vin-tage inspirations on Pinterest

at www.pinterest.com/iamvickiehowell

58_CRSU13_Parenthook.indd 58 5/9/13 2:17 PM

http://www.pinterest.com/iamvickiehowell


Babylace SundressVickie Howell

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 18 (21, 24)" circumfer-ence to �t 3–6 mos (12 mos, 18 mos–2T).YARN Bernat Cotton-ish by Vickie Howell (55% cotton, 45% acrylic; 282 yd [258 m]/2½ oz [70 g]; ): #85132 seersucker, 2 (2, 3) balls.HOOK Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle; safety pin; 2 yd vintage ribbon.GAUGE 16 sts and 8 rows = 4” in patt st.

NotesFront and back are worked from top edge

down, then seamed tog at sides, leaving room for armholes. Ribbon is threaded through channel at top and tied over shoulders.

Stitch GuideShell (sh): [(Dc, ch 1) 4 times, dc] in sp indicated.

Front post single-crochet (FPsc): Insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through both lps on hook.

PatternFRONT AND BACK (MAKE 2)Tie channel:Ch 37 (43, 49).Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—36 (42, 48 sts).Rows 2–6: Ch 1, sc across, turn.Row 7 (turning ridge): Ch 1, FPsc (see Stitch Guide) to last st, sc in last st, turn.Rows 8–12: Rep Rows 2–6.Body:Row 1: Ch 1, *ch 3, sk 5 sc, sh (see Stitch Guide) in next sc, sk 5 sc, sc in next sc; rep from * across, turn.Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 2 dc in same sc, *ch 1 [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3] 2 times, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, sk 1 ch-1 sp, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next sc; rep from * to last sc, 3 dc in last sc, turn.Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, *ch 2, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] 2 times, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, sk 1 ch-1 sp, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to tch, 3 dc in top of tch, turn.

Row 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, *ch 3, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] 2 times, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to tch, 3 dc in top of tch, turn.Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sh in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to tch, sc in top of tch, turn.Rep Rows 2–5 until piece measures 15 (17, 19½)". Edging:Row 1: Ch 1, sc in every ch, dc and sc across, turn.Row 2: Ch 4, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc, *ch 3, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc; rep from * to end. Fasten off.FINISHINGFold over top of front at turning ridge and sew down, leaving ends open, forming a tube. Rep for Back.With WS facing, seam front and back pieces tog, leaving about 6" open for arms.Weave in ends. Block.Straps:Cut ribbon into 2 pieces. Using a safety pin as a guide, feed ribbon piece through chan-nels on front and back pieces. Gather fabric and tie ribbons into bows. �

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58_CRSU13_Parenthook.indd 59 5/9/13 2:18 PM

Malibu


GardenMalibuGarden

MalibuGarden

Malibu

These lacy layers loved to frolic in Malibu Garden and will be pretty happy in your garden as well.

60_CRSU13_MalibuGardenPG.indd 60 5/9/13 2:31 PM


HIBISCUS TUNIC BY MIMI ALELIS. This classic mesh layer, punctu-ated with slimming lines of � oral motifs, is just right over a skirt, pants, or bathing suit. Yarn: Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread size 10 (Coats & Clark). Page 66



DAHLIA SHRUG BY JENNY KING. Richly petaled � oral motifs are joined to create a garment that gives any out� t a pop of color and elegance. Yarn: Omega Dalia (Creative Yarn Source). Page 68



PALM TUNIC BY CRISTINA MERSHON. This airy motif tunic dresses up or down with ease. Made in a cotton-bamboo blend that has both lightness and drape, it slides easily over a bathing suit during the day and over capris or a summer skirt in the evening. Yarn: Valley Yarns Southwick (WEBS). Page 64



Mal

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PLUS SIZE

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 33 (44, 55)" bust circumfer-ence. Garment shown measures 33", modeled with 1" ease.YARN Valley Yarns Southwick (52% pima cotton, 48% bamboo viscose; 105 yd [96 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #13 iguana, 12 (13, 19) balls. Yarn distributed by WEBS.HOOK Size C/2 (2.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle.GAUGE Triangular motif = 5½" wide and 5" tall.

Notes Tunic is constructed from triangular motifs

that are joined as you go for a seamless look. Waistband is worked last.

Stitch GuidePopcorn (pop): 5 dc in indicated st, remove hook, insert hook from front to back under top 2 lps of first dc, place free lp on hook and pull through first dc.Picot: Ch 3, insert hook behind front lp and front vertical strand of prev st, yo and draw through all 3 lps.Ch-2 join: Ch 1, sl st in corresponding ch-2 sp of adjoining motif, ch 1.Picot join: Ch 2, sl st in corresponding ch-3 sp of adjoining picot, ch 1, insert hook behind front lp and front vertical strand of prev st on current motif, yo and draw through all 3 lps.

Triangular motif:Ch 5, sl st in first ch to form ring.Rnd 1: Ch 1, 2 sc in ring, [ch 3, 3 sc in ring] 2 times, ch 3, sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join—3 ch-3 sps.Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, [ch 5, sk 1 sc, pop (see above) in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc] 2 times, ch 5, sk 1 sc, pop in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in first sc to join—6 ch-5 sps. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc around post of dc, ch 5, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] 5 times, sl st in first sc to join—6 ch-5 sps.Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, *(3 sc, ch 9, 3 sc) in next ch-5 sp, sc in next sc, (3 sc, ch 5, 3 sc) in next ch-5 sp, sc in next sc; rep from

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JOINING OFTRIANGULAR

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= chain (ch)

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= ch-2 join

= picot join


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= Motif folded in half

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NOTE: Motif placement for size 33" only, see page 65.

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* around omitting sc at end of last rep, sl st in first sc to join—3 ch-9 sps, 3 ch-5 sps.Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, *(7 dc, picot [see above], 7 dc) in next ch-9 sp, sk 3 sc, sc in next sc, ch 3, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, sk 3 sc, sc in next sc; rep from * around, omitting sc at end of last rep, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.Joining motifs: Work 1 full motif through Rnd 5. For subsequent motifs, work through Rnd 4. On Rnd 5, join to side of another motif using ch-2 join in ch-2 sp, picot join in ch-3 sp of picot (see above).

PatternBODYMake and join 63 (68, 108) triangular motifs (see Stitch Guide), foll assembly diagram for placement. Waistband:With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in ch-3 sp of picot at bottom edge of tunic. Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same sp as join, *sc in next 7 dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next 7 dc, [sc in ch-3 sp of next picot] 2 times; rep from * around, omitting last 2 sc, sl st in first sc to join.Rotate piece 90 degrees to work waistband side to side.Ch 31.

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Tunic Front

Size 33"

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Row 1: (RS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, sl st in next 2 sts along bottom edge of tunic, turn.Row 2: Sc blo across, turn.Row 3: Ch 1, sc blo across, sl st in next 2 sts along edge of tunic, turn.Row 4: Sc blo across, turn.Rep Rows 3–4 around entire bottom edge of tunic. Sl st first and last row of waistband tog to join. Fasten off.FINISHINGWeave in ends. Block to measurements. �

Hibiscus TunicMimi Alelis

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 38 (43, 47)" bust circumfer-ence. Garment is designed to be worn with 2 to 4" positive ease. Garment shown measures 38", modeled with 1" ease. Finished length: 28 (28, 30)".YARN Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread size 10 (100% Mercerized cotton; 350 yd [320 m]/3 oz [85 g]; ): #424 light peach, 4 (5, 6) balls. Thread distributed by Coats & Clark.HOOK Size C/2 (2.75 mm). Adjust hook size

if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS St markers (m); yarn needle.GAUGE 30 sts and 14 rows = 4" in main st patt.

NotesConstruction starts at the front hem,

worked continuously to back hem, separated at the neck opening.

Ch 3 at beg of each row counts as dc.

Stitch GuideTwo double crochet cluster (2-dc cl): [Yo, insert hook in st indicated, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps] 2 times, yo, draw through all 3 lps on hook.Three double crochet cluster (3-dc cl): [Yo, insert hook in st indicated, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps] 3 times, yo, draw through all 4 loops on hook.Gauge Swatch:Ch 36.Row 1: (RS) Dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across, turn—33 dc.Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next dc, (ch 4, sk 4 dc, sc in next dc) 2 times, ch 2, sk next dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc] 4 times, ch 2, sk next dc, sc in next dc, sc in last dc, turn.Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, sc in ch-2 sp, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 4 times, ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 2, sc in ch-4 sp, [ch 3, 2-dc cl (see above) in 3rd ch from hook] 2 times, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, dc in next sc, dc in last sc, turn.Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, sc bet next 2-dc cl, ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 4 times, ch 3, dc in next dc, dc in last dc, turn.Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 4 times, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 4, 3-dc cl (see above) in next sc, ch 4, dc in next dc, dc in last dc, turn.Row 6: Ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, [ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook] 2 times, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 4 times, ch 3, dc in next dc, dc in last dc, turn.Row 7: Ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 4 times, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, sc bet next 2 dc-cl, ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1, dc in next dc, dc in last dc, turn.Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 4, 3-dc cl in next sc, ch 4, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 4 times, ch 3, dc in next dc, dc in last dc, turn.Row 9: Ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 4 times, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in ch-4 sp, [ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook] 2 times, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc, dc in last dc, turn.Rows 10–14: Rep Rows 4–8.

PatternSKIRTBottom mesh band:Ch 148 (164, 180).Row 1: (RS) Dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across, turn—145 (161, 177) dc.Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc] across, turn—36 (40, 44) ch-5 sps.Row 3: Ch 7, sc in first ch-5 sp, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] across, ch 3, tr in last sc, turn.Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] across ending with sc on top of beg ch-4, turn.

Row 5: Rep Row 3.Row 6: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 4, sc in next ch-5 sp] across ending with sc in top of beg ch-4, turn.Row 7: Ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-4 sp, 4 dc in each ch-4 sp to last ch-4 sp, 3 dc in last ch-4 sp, dc in last sc, turn—144 (160, 176) dc.Row 8: Ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next dc, [ch 4, sk 4 dc, sc in next dc] 2 times, ch 2, sk next dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc] 4 (5, 6) times, ch 2, sk next dc; rep from * once, sc in next dc**; rep from * to **, sc in last st, turn—8 ch-2 sps, 12 ch-4 sps, 16 (20, 24) ch-5 sps.Front:Row 9: Ch 3, * dc in next sc, [ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, (ch 3, 2-dc cl [see Stitch Guide] in 3rd ch from hook) 2 times, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 3, sc in ch-2 sp, (ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) 4 (5, 6) times, ch 5, sc in next

64_CRSU13_MalibuGarden.indd 66 5/14/13 11:33 AM


Malibu G

arden

ch-2 sp, ch 3, dc in next sc]; rep bet [ ] once, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, (ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook) 2 times, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, dc in next sc; rep from *, dc in last sc, turn.Row 10: Ch 3, * dc in next dc, [ch 4, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, sc bet 2 cl, ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, (ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) 4 (5, 6) times, ch 3, dc in next dc]; rep bet [ ] once, ch 4, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, sc bet 2 cl, ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1, dc in next dc; rep from *, dc in last dc, turn.Row 11: Ch 3, * dc in next dc, [ch 4, 3-dc cl (see Stitch Guide) in next sc, ch 4, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) 4 (5, 6) times, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next dc]; rep bet [ ] once, ch 4, 3-dc cl in next sc, ch 4, dc in next dc; rep from *, dc in last dc, turn.Row 12: Ch 3, *dc in next dc, [ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, (ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook) 2 times, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, (ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) 4 (5, 6) times, ch 3, dc in next dc]; rep bet [ ] once, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, [ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook] 2 times, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc; rep from *, dc in last dc, turn.Row 13: Ch 3, *dc in next dc, [ch 4, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, sc bet 2 cl, ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) 4 (5, 6) times, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next dc]; rep bet [ ] once, ch 4, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, sc bet 2 cl, ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1, dc in next dc; rep from *, dc in last dc, turn.Row 14: Ch 3, *dc in next dc, [ch 4, 3-dc cl in next sc, ch 4, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, (ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) 4 (5, 6) times, ch 3, dc in next dc]; rep bet [ ] once, ch 4, 3-dc cl in next sc, ch 4, dc in next dc; rep from *, dc in last dc, turn.Row 15: Ch 3, *dc in next dc, [ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, (ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook) 2

times, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, (ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) 4 (5, 6) times, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next dc]; rep bet [ ] once, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, [ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook] 2 times, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc; rep from *, dc in last dc, turn.Row 16: Ch 3, *dc in next dc, [ch 4, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, sc bet 2 cl, ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, (ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) 4 (5, 6) times, ch 3, dc in next dc]; rep bet [ ] once, ch 4, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, sc bet 2 cl, ch 3, 2-dc cl in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1, dc in next dc; rep from *, dc in last dc, turn.Row 17: Ch 3, *dc in next dc, [ch 4, 3-dc cl in next sc, ch 4, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) 4 (5, 6) times, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next dc]; rep bet [ ] once, ch 4, 3-dc cl in next sc, ch 4, dc in next dc; rep from *, dc in last dc, turn.Rows 18–53: Rep Rows 12–17 six (six, seven) times.Rows 54–56 (60–62): Rep Rows 12–14.Waistband:Row 1: Ch 3, *[dc in next dc, 4 dc in ch-4 sp, dc in next cl, 4 dc in next ch-4 sp, dc in next dc, dc in ch-3 sp, dc in next sc, (3 dc in ch-5 sp, dc in next sc) 4 (5, 6) times, dc in ch-3 sp] 2 times, dc in next dc, 4 dc in ch-4 sp, dc in next cl, 4 dc in next ch-4 sp, dc in next dc**, dc in sp before next dc; rep from * to **, dc in last dc, turn—145 (161,177) dc.Rows 2–7: Rep Rows 2–7 of bottom mesh bandBodice:Rows 1–7: Rep Rows 8–14 of skirt. At end of Row 7, place marker (pm) in sp bet 2 middle dc of row, turn.Shape neck opening:Right side:Row 8: Work in main st patt up to last dc before m, end with 2 dc in dc before m, turn.Rows 9–58: Cont in main st patt until 17

more flower rows are made. Fasten off at end of Row 58.

Left side:Row 8: (WS) With sl st, join thread in dc after right section, ch 3, dc in same dc, cont in main st patt.Rows 9–58: Work main st patt until 17 more flower rows are made, turn.Note: left section will be joined to right section in the foll row.Row 59: Work in patt to last 2 dc, dc2tog (see Glossary) over last 2 dc, dc2tog over first 2 dc of right section, cont in patt to end of row, turn.Rows 60–67: Work main patt st until 3 (3, 5) flowers are made, turn.Waist mesh band:Rows 1–7: Rep Rows 1–7 of front waist mesh band. Back:Work Rows 8–56 (62) of skirt.Bottom mesh band:Rows 1–5: Rep Rows 1–5 of waist mesh band.Row 6: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp] across, end with sc in top of beg ch-4, turn.Row 7: Ch 3, dc in each ch and each sc across. Fasten off.FINISHINGCount 6 flowers up from bottom mesh bands and pm on right and left sides of both front and back. *With RS tog, working through

REPEAT

REDUCED SAMPLE OF PATTERN

10

8

6

4

2

11

9

7

5

3

1

Stitch Key

= chain (ch)



= 2 double crochet cluster (2-dc cl)

= 3 double crochet cluster (3-dc cl)

9"

23 c

m

38 (43, 47)" 97 (109, 119) cm

9½ (10¾, 11¾)" 24 (27, 30) cm

28 (2

8, 3

0)"

71

(71,

76)

cm

7"

18 c

m7"

18

cm

BACK&

FRONT



Mal

ibu

Gar

den

both layers, join with sl st at top of dc row of waist mesh band, [sc through both layers, ch 2] around posts of dc at end of each row along sides to m. Fasten off. Rep from * for other side.Weave in ends. Block. �

Dahlia ShrugJenny King

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 38¼ (41, 43¼, 46, 48¼)" bust circumference. Garment shown measures 38¼", modeled with 4" ease.YARN Omega Dalia (100% cotton; 404 yd [370 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #586 jade, 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) balls. Yarn distributed by Creative Yarn Source.HOOK D/3 (3.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS St marker (m); yarn needle.GAUGE 1 motif = 5" square; 33 sts and 13 rows = 4" in mesh patt.

Stitch Guide2 treble crochet cluster (2-tr cl): [Yo 2 times, insert hook in next st or sp, yo and pull up lp, (yo and draw through 2 lps on hook) 2 times] 2 times in same st or sp, yo, draw through rem 3 lps on hook.3 treble crochet cluster (3-tr cl): [Yo 2 times, insert hook in next st or sp, yo and pull up lp, (yo and draw through 2 lps on hook) 2 times] 3 times in same st or sp, yo, draw through rem 4 lps on hook.Corner cluster (ccl): (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in indicated sp.Mesh edging: *Ch 5, sk next mesh row-end (dc row-end), sc in next row-end (sc row-end); rep from * for patt.Motif edging: Ch 5, sc in ch-1 sp of ccl, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 5 times, ch 5, sc in ch-1 sp of ccl.Mesh patt (multiple of 6 sts + 1):Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first sc, sc in next ch-5 sp, *ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * to end, 3 dc in last sc, turn.Row 2: Ch 1, sc in center dc, *ch 5, sc in next

ch-5 sp; rep from * to end, sc in center dc, turn.Rep Rows 1–2 for patt.Motif 1:Ch 5, sl st in first ch to form ring.Rnd 1: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), [dc, ch 2] 9 times in ring, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—10 dc and 10 ch-2 sps.Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, [dc in next dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp] 9 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—40 dc. Rnd 3: Ch 4 (counts as tr), 2-tr cl (see above) in first st, ch 3, sk next dc, [3-tr cl (see above) in next dc, ch 3, sk next dc] 19 times, sl st in first 2-tr cl to join—20 3-tr cl and 20 ch-3 sps.Rnd 4: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same ch-3 sp, [ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp] 19 times, ch 2, dc in first sc—20 ch-5 sps.Rnd 5: [Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 19 times, ch 2, dc in dc of last rnd to join.Rnd 6: Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, ccl (see above) in next ch-5 sp, *[ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 4 times, ch 5, ccl in next ch-5 sp; rep from * 2 times, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 2 times, ch 2, dc in dc of last rnd to join—4 ccl and 19 ch-5 sps. Fasten off.Motif 2:Ch 5, sl st in first ch to form ring.Rnds 1–5: Work as for motif 1.Rnd 6 (join one side to first motif): Hold-ing motifs with WS tog, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp of current motif, ch 5, (3 dc, ch 1) in next ch-5 sp of current motif (first half of ccl complete), sc in corresponding ch-1 sp of ccl from first motif, (ch 1, 3 dc) in same ch-5 sp of current motif (second half of ccl complete), ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp of current motif, [ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp of first motif, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp of current motif] 3 times, ch 5, (3 dc, ch 1) in next ch-5 sp of current motif (first half of ccl complete), sc in corresponding ch-1 sp of ccl from first motif, (ch 1, 3 dc) in same ch-5 sp of current motif (2nd half of ccl complete), ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp of current motif, cont to work Rnd 6 as for first motif.Subsequent motifs: Work and join as for motif 2. To join a 2nd edge, work joining edge from one corner cluster to next corner cluster as for first joined edge.

PatternSHRUGMotif assembly (see diagram):Back: Make 4 motifs and join them in a square, joining 2nd ccl of 3rd and 4th motif to ch-1 sp of ccl of 2nd motif. Left shoulder and front: Make a strip of 3 motifs and join to left back motif. Right shoulder and front: Make a strip of 3 motifs and join to right back motif.Left side:Beg mesh patt as foll:

Set-up Row: With RS facing, join yarn with sc in ch-1 sp of ccl of first front motif, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 5 times, ch 5, sc in ch-1 sp of ccl, *ch 5, sc in ch-1 sp of ccl of next motif, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 5 times, ch 5, sc in ch-1 sp of ccl; rep from * 3 times, turn—34 ch-5 sps.

mo

tif s

trip

mo

tif s

trip

BOLERO

19¼ (20½, 21¾, 23, 24¼)" 49 (52, 55, 58.5, 61.5) cm

9½ (10¼, 10¾, 11½, 12)" 24 (26, 27.5, 29, 30.5) cm

7¾"

19.5

cm 2½

" 6.

5 cm

4¾"

12 c

m

1

9

5

6

24

3

10

8

7

Motif Assembly


Blueprint Crochet Sweaters: Techniques for Custom ConstructionRobyn Chachula 160 Pages, $24.95ISBN: 978-1-59668-828-5

Bl i t C h t S t

Crochet expert Robyn Chachula presents an approachable guide to the basics of crochet design. With this collection of 16 classic and unique patterns, you’ll learn basic sweater construction techniques and how to build a crochet sweater that fi ts perfectly.

CROCHET THEPERFECT FIT!

069_CRSU13.indd 69 5/9/13 5:09 PM


Mal

ibu

Gar

den

Rows 2–3: Work Rows 1–2 of mesh patt (see Stitch Guide).Rep Rows 2–3 six (seven, eight, nine, ten) times. Fasten off.Right side:Begin mesh patt as foll:Set-up Row: With RS facing, join yarn with sc in ch-1 sp of ccl of first back motif, work as for left side.FINISHINGSide seams: Fold garment in half with RS tog, seam first 7 ch-5, beg from bottom edge, as foll: with WS facing, join yarn with sc over first two ch-5 (one ch-5 from each side) at right edge, *ch 5, sc over next ch-5 of both pieces; rep from * 5 times—20 ch-5 sps rem. Fasten off.Armhole edging: Rnd 1: (RS) Join yarn with dc in ch-5 sp after underarm seam, 2 dc in same ch-5 sp, ch 1, *3 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1; rep from * around armhole edge, sl st in first dc to join.Rnd 2: Sl st in next 2 dc, sl st in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same ch-1 sp, *ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to end, ch 3, sk last 3 dc, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.Edging: Turn piece so RS is facing to work along motif edges and in row-ends of mesh. Set-up Rnd: (RS) Join yarn with sc in ch-5 sp after right side seam, work mesh edging (see Stitch Guide) along bottom mesh edge to right front motif; at motif, sk last mesh row-end (dc row-end), work motif edging (see Stitch Guide) along bottom edge of motif, (ch 5, sc) in same ch-1 sp of ccl for corner, work motif edging up along each of 3 right front motifs to center back, ch 5, sc in joining-sc of motifs and mark this center back sc, work motif edging down along each of 3 left front motifs, (ch 5, sc) in same ch-1 sp of ccl for corner, work motif edging along bottom edge of left front motif, work mesh edging along bottom mesh edge to left side seam, ch 5, sk last mesh row-end (dc row-end), sc in ch-5 sp before left side seam, ch 5, sc in ch-5 sp after side seam, cont mesh edging to first back motif; at motif, sk last mesh row-end (dc row-end), work

motif edging along each bottom edge of 2 back motifs, work mesh edging to right side seam, ch 5, sc in ch-5 sp before side seam, ch 5, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 1: Sl st in first ch-5 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same ch-5 sp, ch 1, *3 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1; rep from * around, working (ch 1, ccl, ch 1) in corner ch-5 sp, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 2: Sl st in next 2 dc, sl st in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same ch-1 sp, *ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around, working (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp of ccl for corner, end with ch 3, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 3: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same ch-3 sp, *ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp; rep from * around, working (sc, ch 3, sc) in corner ch-3 sp, omitting ch 3 over center back sc, end with

ch 3, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. �

MOTIF 1

JOINING OF MOTIF 2

4

5

6

Joining of Motifs

1

2

3

4

5

6

Motif 1

= chain (ch)

= slip st (sl st)




= 3 treble crochet cluster (3-tr cl)

= corner cluster (ccl)

= 2 treble crochet cluster (2-tr cl)

Bolero Stitch Key

64_CRSU13_MalibuGarden.indd 70 5/14/13 11:34 AM

LEARN KNITTERS’ SECRETS FROM AROUND THE WORLD!

Register now at www.interweaveknittinglab.com

SAN MATEO CALIFORNIA

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Join the editors of Interweave Knits for this year’s one-and-only Knitting Lab to explore unique regional and historical knitting methods in 75+ workshops: Roositud inlay from Estonia, traditional Gansey techniques from the Guernsey Islands, Orenburg lace from Russia, Andean intarsia from South America and more.

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071_CRSU13.indd 71 5/9/13 2:53 PM


everyday crochet

Kathryn Vercillo

Phot

os b

y Em

ily D

epol

e

Single Crochet

Crocheting with GrandmaEm’s Italian grandmother, who did needlework for a

living, taught Em how to crochet. Some of Em’s fondest memories are of watching her grandmother’s lightning-fast � ngers crocheting with a hook handmade by her grandfa-ther. Em’s grandmother lived until the age of 102, and Em misses her deeply. Em says that crochet is the one activity that brings back the warm, homey feeling she got when she was with her grandmother. � e primary reason she crochets, she says, is “to � nd that peaceful place where my mind runs free and all of the stresses of the world are left behind.”

Daily Crochet Today Em lives with her boyfriend in a three-bedroom

house in Yucca Valley, in the high desert of Southern California. � e town of Yucca Valley is about 500 people strong, and the house sits in the middle of a small valley surrounded by the Sawtooth Mountains and � at-topped blu� s. It’s a quiet and peaceful place. Em crochets daily and says that she always has multiple projects going, because “variety is the key.” You can � nd Em during the day sitting near the wood-burning stove at the front window, crochet-ing as she listens to the radio. At night, she crochets while sitting on the sofa with her boyfriend and their dog as they

watch their favorite TV shows, such as Mystery � eater and Antiques Roadshow.

Evolving SkillsOne of the best things about crochet is that you can keep

learning new things about the craft over time and perhaps � nd a niche that combines skills. Em’s experience epitomizes that. She started out crocheting a variety of blankets, scarves, and sweaters for herself and loved ones. � en she became involved with thread crochet and was a doily fanatic for quite some time. After that she explored Irish crochet. Eventually, she began doing what she specializes in now: crocheted jewelry with an Irish crochet twist. She loves learning new techniques and then modifying them to create her own signature pieces. � ese days most of the pieces she makes are designs for her Etsy store, Nothingbutstring.

Health Bene� tsEmily went through an extended period of unemployment

that led her into a deep depression caused in part by low self-esteem. Crochet helped alleviate the depression by rebuilding her self-esteem and giving her something produc-tive to do. She started her Etsy store and found that being able to earn a bit of income during the economic recession was very empowering. She shares her story in my book Crochet Saved My Life, which is about the health bene� ts of crafting.

Em does several other crafts, including knitting and loom beading. But she especially loves crochet because it is so calming. � e repetition and counting of stitches is a very meditative stress reliever, she says.

To enrich her love of crochet, she has recently been exploring patterns for Bruges lace, which she has always wanted to try. �

Emily Depole lives in an idyllic set-ting in the California desert, where she crochets to make a small in-come and honor the grandmother who taught her the craft.

72_CRSU13EverydayCR.indd 72 5/9/13 2:51 PM


EMILY’S TIPS

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s • crochet m

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Crocheters learn from other crocheters. Here are Em’s three big tips: • Self-care is important in crochet. Stop every twenty

minutes to stretch your hands and give them a break.

• Learn to read charts, and don’t depend on the writ-ten word. A whole new world will open up, and pat-terns and ideas from all over the world will become available to you. Crochet symbols are pretty much universal, and even if you can’t read the language, you can still read the graph.

• Practice—any kind of practice—makes perfect. Don’t give up just because something didn’t come out just like the picture. “I can’t tell you how many times I’ve found a mistake along the way. It’s what you do with that mistake that makes the thing you’re making your own. Turn it into a freeform art piece and go wild with it. You learn much more from going down your own path than you do by always following a pattern.”

72_CRSU13EverydayCR.indd 73 5/10/13 1:58 PM

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TIMESLOOKING GOOD & HANGING OUT IN HIP HIGHLAND PARK

74_CRSU13_LATimes-2.indd 74 5/9/13 3:20 PM


VENTURA VEST BY ROBYN CHACHULA. Grannies take a supporting role as pockets on this

long, textured open vest. Add this bit of color to any out� t—it would be great with shorts and a tee!

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Cleo. Page 81

ARROYO SECO TOP BY THERESA SCHABES. Nothing frees your inner Bohemian like granny

squares! Here, a central vertical line of grannies slims the � gure, and a slimming solid-color open

grid is shaped to the waist. Yarn: Classic Elite Yarns Fire� y. Page 79

74_CRSU13_LATimes-2.indd 75 5/14/13 11:35 AM


TIMES

POP-HOP SLEEVES BY NATASHA ROBARGE. This proj-

ect for adventurous crocheters transforms a simple tee into a

unique piece of art using a free-form approach. Yarn: Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Fine. Page 84

MEANDER BACKPACK BY LISA SOUTENDIJK. Well, sure you

need a place for your sketchpad and pencils. The Greek Key, or

meander, design mimics tapestry crochet with its strategically placed

post stitches. Yarn: Brown Sheep Company Cotton Fleece. Page 88

74_CRSU13_LATimes-2.indd 76 5/14/13 11:36 AM




TIMES

MUSE TUNIC BY HANNAH CUVIELLO. Wear the lace on this � tted tunic up on your shoulders while you’re focus-ing on writing your poetry, and then drop it down for daydreaming. Yarn: Knit Picks Galileo (Crafts Americana). Page 85



LA Tim

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Arroyo Seco TopTheresa Schabes

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 29 (31, 34½, 36, 39¾, 43½)" bust circumference. Garment shown measures 29" modeled with 5" ease.YARN Classic Elite Yarns Fire�y (75% viscose, 25% linen; 155 yd [142 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #7719 (MC), 5 (5, 6, 8, 9 10) balls; #7757, #7781, #7795, 1 ball each.HOOK Size C/2 (2.75 mm) or D/3 (3.25 mm) or E/4 (3.5 mm) Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle; 4 st markers (m).GAUGE Motif = 31⁄8" square with C/2 (2.75 mm) hook, 3¼" with D/3 (3.25 mm) hook and 3¾" with E/4 (3.5 mm) hook.

NotesSide pieces are grids of alternating 2 dc and ch

2. Waist shaping is created by substituting hdc and sc for dc on alternate rows. If you wish to eliminate the waist shaping, just work all dc.

When picking up sts along edge of a multi-colored motif, work in blo of st.

Weave in ends as you finish each motif. Front and back motif panels are worked and

joined. Sides are worked sideways from edges of motif panels.

Stitch GuideFirst motif:Note: If making a multi-colored motif, change colors on last st of each rnd and fasten off previous color. Weave in ends as you work.With MC, ch 4, sl st in first ch to form ring.Rnd 1: Ch 6 (counts as a dc and ch 3), [dc, ch 3] 7 times in ring, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-6 to join, turn—8 dc, 8 ch-3 sps. Rnd 2: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 3 dc in same ch-3 sp, ch 2, [4 dc, ch 2 in next ch-3 sp] 7 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn—32 dc, 8 ch-2 sps. Rnd 3: Sl st in first ch-2 sp (ch 3, 5 dc, ch 1) in same ch-2 sp, (6 dc, ch 3) in next ch-2 sp; [(6

dc, ch 1) in next ch-2 sp, (6 dc, ch 3) in next ch-2 sp] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn—48 dc, 4 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-3 sps. Rnd 4: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, (ch 3, dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in same 3-ch sp, [ch 3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—20 ch-3 sps, 20 dc, 8 sc. Fasten off. Next motif (one side join):Work as first motif through Rnd 3.Rnd 4: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, (ch 3, dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in same 3-ch sp, ch 3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, sl st in corner ch-3 sp of adjacent motif (AM), ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp), *ch 3, insert hook from front to back in next sc on AM and the sp bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group on working motif (WM), sc to join**, ch 3, yo, insert hook from front to back in next dc on AM and next ch-3 sp on WM, complete dc to join; rep from * to **, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, sl st) in corner ch-3 sp of AM, ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, sl

st in top of beg ch-3 to join—20 ch-3 sps, 20 dc, 8 sc. Fasten off. Next motif (2 side join):Work as first motif through Rnd 3.Rnd 4: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, (ch 3, dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in same ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, sl st) in corner ch-3 sp of adjacent motif (AM), ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp, *ch 3, insert hook from front to back in next sc on AM and sp bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group on working motif (WM), sc to join**, ch 3, yo, insert hook from front to back in next dc on AM and next ch-3 sp on WM, complete dc to join; rep from * to **, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, sl st) in corner ch-3 sp of AM, ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp***; rep from * to ***, ch 3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch

1

JOINING OF SECOND

AND SUCCESSIVEMOTIFS

2

3

4

4

1

Side Pattern

Motif and Joins, and Side Pattern (Row 1)

= chain (ch)

= slip st (sl st)




Stitch Key

79_CRSU13_LATimes.indd 79 5/9/13 4:40 PM


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3, sc bet 3rd and 4th dc of next dc group, ch 3, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—20 ch-3 sps, 20 dc, 8 sc. Fasten off.

Motif multi-color combinations:1. MC, CC1, CC2, CC32. CC1, CC2, CC3, MC3. CC2, CC3, MC, CC14. CC3, MC, CC1, CC25. CC2, MC, CC3, CC16. CC3, CC1, MC, CC27. MC, CC2, CC1, CC38. CC1, CC3, CC2, MC9. CC3, CC2, MC, CC110. CC3, MC CC1, CC2Or colors of choice.

PatternBack and front:Make 50 (50, 55, 50, 55, 61) motifs using C (D,

D, E, E, E) hook, foll layout, joining as you go. Outer motifs are solid color; center motifs are multi-colored. Select colors for multi-colored motifs randomly or based on chart above, while not repeating the same color in the same row in adjacent blocks. Sides:Right side:Place markers (pm) at join of 2nd and 3rd motifs from top of shoulder on front and back on all 4 sides.Row 1: (RS) Join MC with sl st in marked st for right front, ch 1, *sc in join, 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc bet next 2 dc, [3 sc in next ch-3 sp] four times, sc bet next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp*; rep from * to * four times, turn—90 sc (18 sc per motif).Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in next st, *ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * across, turn—48 dc, 23 ch-2 sps.Shape waist (see Notes):Row 3: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2 through-out), [2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2] 10 times, [2 hdc in ch-2 sp, ch 2] 2 times, [2 sc in ch-2 sp, ch 2] 2 times, [2 hdc in ch-2 sp, ch 2] 2 times, [2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2] 6 times, dc in top of tch, turn—36 dc, 8 hdc, 4 sc, 23 ch-2 sps.Row 4: Ch 3, dc in first ch-2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp] across, dc in top of tch, turn—47 dc, 23 ch-2 sps.Row 5: Rep Row 3.Row 6: Ch 3, dc in first ch-2 sp [ch 2, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp] across, turn—48 dc, 23 ch-2 sps.Row 7: Rep Row 3.Row 8: Rep Row 4.

Join front to back:With RS tog, match front to back at side seams using marked motif and bottom edge of gar-ment as a guide. Work 90 sc evenly along side seam, working 2 sc in ch-2 sps and 1 sc bet dc. Fasten off.Left side:Row 1: (RS) Join MC with sl st in lower edge of left front, ch 1, sc in same st, *2 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc bet next 2 dc, [3 sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, sc bet next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next join*; rep from * to * 4 times to marked st, turn—90 sc (18 sc per motif).Rows 2–8: Rep as for right front.Join front to back as for right side.FINISHINGNeck edging:Rnd 1: (RS) Join MC with sl st in any join bet motifs, ch 1, *sc in join, 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc

BA

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SIZES 29 (31, 36)"

SIZES 34¼ (39¾)"

SIZE 43½"

6¼ (6½, 7½)" 16 (16.5, 19) cm

9¾ (11¼)" 25 (28.5) cm

13 (15)" 33 (38) cm

11¼" 28.5 cm

12½ (13, 15)" 32 (33, 38) cm

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LA Tim

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bet next 2 dc, [3 sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, sc bet next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp*; rep from * to * around—180 (180, 198, 180, 198, 216) sts. Fasten off.Rnd 2: (RS) Beg in either corner of back, join yarn in 2nd sc from corner of previous side, *ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st; rep from * to next corner, work corner by ch 1, sk 2 sts, sl st in next sc, turn and work sl st in top of ch 1, sl st in dc, turn**; rep from * to ** for rem 3 sides, ending last side with sl st in first dc to join.Rnd 3: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each ch-1 sp around, omitting corner sts, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 4: Ch 1, rev sc (see Glossary) in each sc around, skipping 1 st in each corner, sl st in first rev sc to join. Fasten off.

Armhole edging:Rnd 1: (RS) Join MC with sl st in any join bet motifs, ch 1, *sc in join, 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc bet next 2 dc, [3 sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, sc bet next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp*; rep from * to * for each motif around, working 2 or 3 sc in row-ends of side pieces, sl st in first sc to join—92 sc.Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), *sk 1 sc, dc in next sc, ch 1; rep from * ending with a sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.Rnd 3: Rep Rnd 3 of neck edging. Rnd 4: Rep Rnd 4 of neck edging.Hem edging:Rnd 1: (RS) Join MC with sl st in any join bet motifs, ch 1, *sc in join, 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc bet next 2 dc, [3 sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, sc bet next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp*; rep from * to * for each motif around, working 2 or 3 sc in row-ends of side pieces, sl st in first sc to join—186 (186, 204, 186, 204, 222) sts.Rnds 2–4: Rep Rnds 2–4 of armhole edging.Weave in loose ends. Wet block to measurements.Twisted cord:Cut one 126" strand of each CC. Make a twisted cord as foll: Tie strands loosely at 1 end. Loop tied end over a peg to hold in place. Twist strands firmly, remove from peg. Allow cord to twist back on itself. Smooth twist and trim end. Beg at center front, weave through dc on Rnd 2 of neck edging and tie into a bow. �

Ventura VestRobyn Chachula

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 34¼ (37¼, 40¼, 43¼, 46¼, 49¼)" bust circumference. Garment shown measures 34¼", modeled with ¼" ease. Garment is meant to be worn with 2" of ease.YARN Plymouth Yarn Cleo (100% mercer-ized pima cotton; 125 yd [114 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #0133 peony (A), 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) hanks; #0136 pink (B), 6 (7, 8, 9, 9, 10) hanks.HOOK Sizes 7 (4.5 mm) and H/8 (5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS St markers (m); blocking pins and spray bottle; yarn needle.GAUGE 8 dc-cl = 4" and 8 rows = 4½" in lace patt with smaller hook; 16 sts and 16 rows = 4" in rib patt with larger hook.

NotesLace upper body is worked in three panels and

joined at shoulders. Garment is then turned and lower body is worked down to hem.

Stitch GuideExtended Single Crochet (esc): Insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 1 lp on hook, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook.Extra Extended Single Crochet (eesc): Insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 1 lp on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook.2 Double Crochet Cluster (2dc-cl): [Yo, insert hook in specified st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times in same st, yo and draw through 3 lps on hook.3 Double Crochet Cluster (3dc-cl): [Yo, insert hook in specified st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times in same st, yo and draw through 4 lps on hook.Lace patt (multiple of 3 ch + 1):Note: Lace patt will naturally bias; patt is

reversible and does not have a true RS.With smaller hook, ch 31 for gauge swatch.Row 1: (RS) Sl st in first ch from hook, *ch 3, 2dc-cl (see above) in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sk 5 ch on foundation ch, sl st in next ch; rep from * across, turn—10 2dc-cl in 5 pairs.Row 2: Ch 8, hdc2tog (see Glossary) over 3rd and 4th ch from hook, *ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair**, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 2, dtr (see Glossary) in first sl st from Row 1, turn.Row 3: Ch 7, *2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4; rep from * across, omitting ch 4 at end of last rep, tr in 7th ch of tch at side of hdc2tog from Row 2, turn—10 2dc-cl in 4 pairs with one at each end.Row 4: Ch 6, 3dc-cl (see above) in tr, *ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook**, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of tch, turn—5 pairs of cl.Row 5: Ch 9, hdc2tog over 4th and 5th ch from hook, *sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st**, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 2, dc in 4th ch of tch, turn.Row 6: Ch 7, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in ch-2 sp, *ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st**, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, tr in 7th ch of tch, turn.Row 7: Sl st in tr, *ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair; rep from * across, ending with sl st in 4th ch of tch, turn.Rep Rows 2–7 for patt.Texture patt (multiple of 6 sts + 5):With larger hook, ch 24 for gauge swatch.Row 1: (RS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn.Row 2: Ch 1, sc flo across, turn.Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as esc throughout), esc (see above) in next sc, *eesc (see above) in free lp of st 1 row below next st, esc in next 5 sc; rep from * to last 3 sc, eesc in free lp of sc 1 row below next st, esc in last 2 sc, turn.Row 4: Rep Row 2.Row 5: Ch 2, esc in next 4 sc, *eesc in free lp of sc 1 row below next st, esc in next 5 sc; rep from * across, turn.Rep Rows 2–5 for patt.

PatternLACE UPPER BODYBack panel:With smaller hook and A, ch 79 (79, 85, 85, 91, 91).Row 1: (RS) Work Row 1 of lace patt (see Stitch Guide)—26 (26, 28, 28, 30, 30) cl.Row 2: Ch 8, hdc2tog (see Glossary) over 3rd and 4th ch from hook, *ch 4, 2dc-cl (see Stitch Guide) in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st; rep from * across, ch 2, dtr in first sl st from Row 1, turn.



LA T

imes

Row 3: Ch 7, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in ch-2 sp, *ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair; rep from * across, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, tr in 7th ch of tch, turn—28 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32) cl.Row 4: Ch 6, 3dc-cl (see Stitch Guide) in tr, *ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st; rep from * across, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in 3rd ch of tch, turn.Row 5: Ch 8, hdc2tog over 3rd and 4th ch from hook, *ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st; rep from * across, ch 2, dc in 4th ch of tch, turn.Rows 6–10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14): Rep Rows 3–5, ending with Row 4 (4, 3, 3, 5, 5)—32 (32, 36, 36, 38, 38) cl.Shape right shoulder:Sizes 34¼ (37¼ )" only:Row 11: (RS) Ch 8, hdc2tog over 3rd and 4th ch from hook, [ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st] 5 times, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, turn leaving rem sts unworked—11 cl.Sizes 40¼ (43¼ )" only: Row 13: (RS) Ch 6, 3dc-cl in tr, [ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st] 5 times, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, turn leaving rem sts unworked—12 cl.Sizes 34¼ (37¼ , 40¼ , 43¼ )" only:Row 12 (12, 14, 14): Ch 9, hdc2tog over 4th and 5th ch from hook, [sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook] 3 times, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 2, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sl st in center of next cl pair, turn—7 cl. Fasten off.Row 13 (13, 15, 15): Rejoin yarn with sl st in first cl, ch 5, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 6, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, tr in 7th ch of tch, turn—2 cl.Row 14 (14, 16, 16): Ch 1, sc in tr, ch 5, sl st in ch-2 sp. Fasten off.Sizes 46¼ (49¼ )" only: Row 15: (RS) Ch 7, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in ch-2 sp, [ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair] 6 times, ch 2, dtr (see Glossary) in next sl st, turn leaving rem sts unworked—13 cl.Row 16: Ch 8, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, [sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook] 3 times, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 2, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sl st in 4th ch of tch, turn—8 cl. Fasten off.Row 17: Rejoin yarn with sl st in first cl, ch 5, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 5, hdc in center of next cl pair, ch 6, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st

in 5th ch of tch, turn—3 cl.Row 18: Ch 8, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sl st in ch-2 sp. Fasten off.

Shape left shoulder:Sizes 34¼ (37¼ )" only:Row 11: (RS) Join yarn with sl st in last sl

st on Row 11 of right shoulder, [ch 5, sl st in center of next cl pair] 5 times, ch 6, 3dc-cl in sl st, [ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st] 5 times, ch 2, dc in 4th ch of tch, turn—11 cl. Row 12: Sk dc, sl st in ch-2 sp, sl st in cl, ch 5, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 6, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, [sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook] 3 times, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 2, dc in 4th ch of tch, turn—7 cl.Sizes 40¼ (43¼ )" only: Row 13: (RS) Join yarn with sl st in last sl st on Row 13 of right shoulder, [ch 5, sl st in center of next cl pair] 6 times, *ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair; rep from * across placing last sl st in 4th ch of tch, turn—12 cl.Row 14: Ch 6, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 6, 2dc-cl

Back Shaping

1

3

5

7

2

4

6

NOTE: Go to Crochetme.com for more diagrams.

34¼ " Sample Front Top Lace

Back Panel



LA Tim

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in 4th ch from hook, *sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook; rep from * across, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 2, dtr in next sl st, turn—7 cl.Sizes 34¼ (37¼, 40¼, 43¼)" only:Row 13 (13, 15, 15): Ch 7, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 2, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sl st in last cl, turn—2 cl. Fasten off.Row 14 (14, 16, 16): Rejoin yarn with sl st in first cl, ch 5, sc in 4th ch of tch. Fasten off.Sizes 46¼ (49¼)" only: Row 15: (RS) Join yarn with sl st in middle of dtr post at end of Row 15 of right shoulder, ch 2, [sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 5] 5 times, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 2, dc in

next sl st, ch 4, hdc2tog over 3rd and 4th ch from hook, *sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st**, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, tr in 7th ch of tch, turn—13 cl.Row 16: Ch 5, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 6, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, [sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook] 3 times, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, tr in 3rd ch of tch, turn—8 cl.Row 17: Ch 6, 3dc-cl in tr, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 2, hdc in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sl st in ch-2 sp, turn—3 cl. Fasten off.

Row 18: Rejoin yarn with sl st in first cl, ch 5, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 2, sc in 4th ch of tch. Fasten off.FRONT PANELS (MAKE 2)Sizes 34¼ (37¼, 46¼, 49¼)" only:With smaller hook and A, ch 42 (42, 48, 48).Row 1: 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sk 7 ch, sl st in next ch, *ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sk 5 ch on foundation ch, sl st in next ch; rep from * across, turn—11 (11, 13, 13) cl.Row 2: Ch 8, hdc2tog over 3rd and 4th ch from hook, *ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair **, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, turn.Row 3: Ch 8, hdc2tog over 3rd and 4th ch from hook, *sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st**, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, tr in 7th ch of tch, turn. Row 4: Ch 6, 3dc-cl in tr, *ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st; rep from * across, tr in 7th ch of tch, turn.Row 5: Ch 6, 3dc-cl in tr, *ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st; rep from * across, ch 2, dc in 4th ch of tch, turn.Row 6: Ch 6, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in ch-2 sp, *ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair; rep from * across, ch 2, dc in 4th ch of tch, turn.Row 7: Ch 6, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, *sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook; rep from * across, sl st in 4th ch of tch, turn.Rows 8–11: Rep Rows 2–5.Sizes 46¼ (49¼)" only:Rows 12–13: Rep Rows 6–7.Rows 14–15: Rep Rows 2–3.Shape shoulder:Sizes 34¼ (37¼)" only:Row 12: Sk dc, sl st in ch-2 sp, sl st in cl, ch 5, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 6, *2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair **, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 2, dc in 4th ch of tch, turn—7 cl.Row 13: Ch 7, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 2, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sl st in last cl, turn—2 cl. Fasten off.Row 14: Rejoin yarn with sl st in first cl, ch 5, sc in 4th ch of tch. Fasten off.Sizes 46¼ (49¼)" only:Row 16: Ch 5, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 6, *2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4; rep from * across, omitting ch 4 at end of last rep, tr in 3rd ch of tch, turn—8 cl.Row 17: Ch 6, 3dc-cl in tr, ch 4, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 2, hdc in center of next cl

1

2

3

4

5

7

6

8

Motif

= sl st

= dc

= sc

= hdc

= dtr

= ch

= tr

= 3dc-cl

= 2dc-cl

= 2hdc-cl

Stitch Key

LOWER BODY

LACE UPPER BODY

34¼ (37¼, 40¼, 43¼, 46¼, 49¼)" 87 (94.5, 102, 110, 117.5, 125) cm

5½ (5½, 6, 6, 6½, 6½)" 14 (14, 15, 15, 17, 17) cm

6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 7)" 15 (15, 18, 18, 18, 18) cm

5¾ (5

¾, 6

¾, 6

¾, 8

, 8)"

14

.5 (1

4.5,

17,

17,

20.

5, 2

0.5)

cm

7 (7

, 8, 8

, 9¼

, 9¼

)"

18 (1

8, 2

0.5,

20.

5, 2

3.5,

23.

5) c

m

2" 5 cm

1¼"

3 cm

15¼

" 38

.5 c

m

7¾ (7

¾, 8

¾, 8

¾, 1

0, 1

0)"

19.5

(19.

5, 2

2, 2

2, 2

5.5,

25.

5) c

m16

½"

42 c

m

24¼

(24¼

, 25¼

, 25¼

, 26½

, 26½

)"

61.5

(61.

5, 6

4, 6

4, 6

7.5,

67.

5) c

m



LA T

imes

pair, ch 5, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sl st in ch-2 sp, turn—3 cl. Fasten off.Row 18: Rejoin yarn with sl st in first cl, ch 5, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 2, sc in 4th ch of tch. Fasten off.Sizes 40¼ (43¼)" only:With smaller hook and A, ch 37.Row 1: Work Row 1 of lace patt—12 cl.Rows 2–13: Work even in lace patt. Shape shoulder:Row 14: Ch 6, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 6, *2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair **, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 4; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 2, dtr in last sl st, turn—7 cl.Row 15: Ch 7, 2dc-cl in 4th ch from hook, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 3, 2dc-cl in sl st, ch 2, sc in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sl st in center of next cl pair, ch 5, sl st in last cl, turn—2 cl. Fasten off.Row 16: Rejoin yarn with sl st in first cl, ch 5, sc in 4th ch of tch. Fasten off.All sizes:Pin panels to schematic size. Spray with water and allow to dry. Whipstitch (see Glossary) shoulder seams of back and front panels tog.Lower body:Right front panel:With RS facing and larger hook, join B to bot-tom edge of left front lace panel with sl st. Row 1: (RS) Work 28 (28, 32, 32, 34, 34) sc evenly along bottom edge, turn.Row 2: Ch 1, sc flo across, turn.Shape neck and armhole:Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as esc throughout), esc (see Stitch Guide) in first sc, esc in next 1 (1, 4, 4, 2, 2) sc, *eesc (see Stitch Guide) in free lp of sc 1 row below next st, esc in next 5 sc; rep from * to last 2 (2, 3, 3, 1, 1) sc, [eesc in free lp of sc 1 row below] 1 (1, 1, 1, 0, 0) time, esc in next 0 (0, 1, 1, 0, 0) sc, 2 (2, 1, 1, 2, 2) esc in last sc, turn—30 (30, 33, 33, 36, 36) sts.Row 4: Ch 1, sc flo in each st across to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn—31 (31, 34, 34, 37, 37) sc.Row 5: Ch 2, esc in first sc, esc in next 0 (0, 3, 3, 1, 1) sc, eesc in free lp of sc 1 row below next st, *esc in next 5 sc, eesc in free lp of sc 1 row below next st; rep from * to last 5 (5, 5, 5, 4, 4) sc, esc to last st, 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2) esc in last st—32 (32, 35, 35, 39, 39) sts. Set aside; do not fasten off. Back panel:With RS facing and larger hook, join a new ball of B to bottom edge of back lace panel with sl st. Row 1: (RS) Work 59 (59, 65, 65, 73, 73) sc evenly along bottom edge, turn.Row 2: Ch 1, sc flo across, turn.Shape armholes:Row 3: Ch 2, esc in first sc, esc in next 4 (4, 1, 1, 5, 5) sc, *eesc in free lp of sc 1 row below, esc in next 5 sc; rep from * to last 6 (6, 3, 3, 7, 7) sc, eesc in free lp of sc 1 row below, esc to last sc, 2 esc in last sc, turn—61 (61, 67, 67, 75, 75) sts.

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first esc, sc flo to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn—63 (63, 69, 69, 77, 77) sc.Row 5: Ch 2, esc in first sc, esc in next 3 (3, 0, 0, 4, 4) sc, *eesc in free lp of sc 1 row below next st, esc in next 5 sc; rep from * to last 5 (5, 2, 2, 6, 6) sc, eesc in free lp of sc 1 row below next st, esc to last sc, 2 esc in last sc, ch 4 (10, 10, 16, 14, 20), sl st in first st of Row 5 of right front panel—65 (65, 71, 71, 79, 79) sts. Fasten off. Left front panel:With RS facing and larger hook, join B to bot-tom edge of right front lace panel with sl st. Row 1: (RS) Work 28 (28, 32, 32, 34, 34) sc evenly along bottom edge, turn.Row 2: Ch 1, sc flo across, turn.Row 3: Ch 2, 1 (1, 0, 0, 1, 1) esc in first sc, esc in next 0 (0, 1, 1, 5, 5) sc, *eesc in free lp of sc 1 row below next st, esc in next 5 sc; rep from * to last 3 (3, 6, 6, 4, 4) sts, eesc in free lp of sc 1 row below, esc to last st, 2 esc in last sc, turn—30 (30, 33, 33, 36, 36) sts.Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc flo to last st, sc in last st, turn—31 (31, 34, 34, 37, 37) sc.Row 5: Ch 2, 0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 1) esc in first sc, esc in next 4 (4, 4, 4, 3, 3) sc, *eesc in free lp of sc 1 row below, esc in next 5 sc; rep from * to last 2 (2, 5, 5, 3, 3) sts, eesc in free lp of sc 1 row below, esc to last st, 2 esc in last sc, ch 4 (10, 10, 16, 14, 20), sl st in first st of Row 5 of back panel—32 (32, 35, 35, 39, 39) sts. Fasten off.Join panels:Return to working with yarn attached to right front panel.Row 6: (WS) Ch 1, sc flo in each st and ch across, turn—137 (149, 161, 173, 185, 197) sc.Rows 7–9: Work Rows 3–5 of texture patt (see Stitch Guide).Rows 10–66: Work even in texture patt.Edging rnd: (RS) Ch 1, sc in each sc to corner, 3 sc in corner, rotate work 90 degrees, sc evenly up edge of lower body, change to A at upper body, sc evenly up to back neck, sc across back neck and down left front, change to B at lower body, sc evenly down to corner, 2 sc in corner, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. FINISHINGWith larger hook and B, work crochet ch st (see Glossary) across Row 1 of lower right front panel. Rep for lower back and lower left front panels. Work 1 rnd of sc around each armhole, chang-ing color to match each section.MOTIF POCKETS (MAKE 2)With smaller hook and A, ch 5, sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 1, 8 sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join—8 sc.Rnd 2: Ch 1, (sc, ch 4) in each sc around, sl st in first sc to join—8 ch-4 sps.Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-4 sp around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc bet first and last sc on prev rnd, ch 6, *sc bet next 2 sc on prev rnd, ch 6;

rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join—8 ch-6 sps.Rnd 5: Ch 1, (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-6 sp around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals. Fasten off.

Rnd 6: Join yarn with sl st bet first 2 dc on next petal, sc in same sp, *ch 5, sc bet 4th and 5th dc on same petal, ch 5, sc bet 1st and 2nd dc on next petal; rep from * around to last petal, ch 5, sc bet 4th and 5th dc on last petal, ch 2, dc in first sc to join—16 ch-sps. Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc around post of dc, *ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, (4 dc, ch 3, 4 dc), in next ch-5 sp, ch 2,sc in next ch-5 sp**, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, ch 2, dc in first sc to join—20 ch-sps.Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc around post of dc, *ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next 4 dc, 5 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in next 4 dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2**, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around, ending at last rep at **, sl st in first sc to join—68 dc. Fasten off.Using photo as a guide, sew pockets to vest. �

Pop-Hop SleevesNatasha Robarge

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE Custom �tted. Sleeve shown measures 11" wide and 5¾" tall.YARN Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Fine



LA Tim

es

(100% pima cotton; 136 yd [125 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #3753 white peach (MC), #3734 teal (CC), 1 skein each.HOOK Size 1 (2.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS T-shirt; scrap felt; scissors; yarn needle; sewing needle and thread; fabric pencil; pins.GAUGE is not critical for this project.

NotesReview location of yarn ends and decide

where you will create CC color patches. If needed, route yarn ends under sc using yarn needle to required location.

Make sure the ch of net are not too long or too short, do not pucker the fabric and do not slack. Gaps should be consistent in size.

Use taller sts for working in circular or triangular openings, e.g. ch 3 to center of opening, make a cluster of several dc or tr to connect several points to center, ch to next element.

If you run out of yarn or come to a dead end, fasten off and secure ends using sewing needle or yarn needle by routing for 1–2"under sts.

Cut sleeves off a store-bought tee and trace on a piece of felt. Baste crocheted elements (flowers and leaves) to the traced sleeve and connect with crochet net. Block sleeves, remove from backing and sew to tee.

Stitch GuideEDGINGWith MC, ch 2. 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, turn.Row 1: Ch 2, sk next sc, 3 sc in next sc, turn.Rep Row 1 until piece measures desired length. Fasten off.

FLOWER (MAKE 2)Leaving a 6" tail, ch 12, sl st in first ch to form ring.Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, 24 sc in ring working over tail; sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: 9 sc around tail (first petal made), turn.Rnd 3: *Ch 10, sk 1 sc on Rnd 1, sl st in next sc, turn, 9 sc in ch-10 sp, turn; rep from * around, ch 5, sl st in first petal, turn.Rnd 4: Work 8 sc in each petal around. Fasten off leaving a 50" tail.Make an additional 2 flowers working only the first 5 petals of Rnd 3 or 6 vertical rows of sc.SINGLE LEAF (MAKE 2)With CC, ch 12, sl st in first ch to form ring.Rnd 1: Ch 1, 10 sc in ring, ch 2, 10 sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off, leaving a 50" tail. DOUBLE LEAF (MAKE 2)With CC, ch 12, sl st in first ch to form ring.Rnd 1: 10 sc in ring, ch 2, 10 sc in ring, ch 12, sl st in first ch to form next ring, 10 sc in ring, ch 2, 10 sc in ring, 2 sc in first ring, sl st in first sc. Fasten off, leaving a 50" tail.TRIPLE LEAF (MAKE 2)With CC, ch 12, sl st in first ch to form ring.Rnd 1: 10 sc in ring, ch 2, 10 sc in ring, [ch 12, sl st in first ch to form next ring, 10 sc in ring, ch 2, 10 sc in ring] 2 times, sl st in first ring to join. Fasten off, leaving a 50" tail.Crochet net:Insert hook from front to back under one sc lp on edge of leaf closest to yarn end, yo, make several ch and join with sc to next element.Insert hook as for sc from front to back on RS of edge and from back to front on opposite side. Cont to work ch bet elements, joining with sc to 1–2 strands on edges.

PatternUse scissors to cut out sleeves of tee along seam, being sure not to damage seam. Use a pin to mark right sleeve.With WS facing, trace sleeves on felt. Use pins to mark right sleeve along outline and centerlines.Work edging to same length as armhole, allow-

ing an additional 2".Work edging to same length as sleeve cuff, allowing an additional 2".Work flowers and leaves.With RS facing, arrange and pin elements to RS of felt. Be sure to place elements in the visible portion of the sleeve, allowing at least ¼" for crochet netting.Pin edging to felt along armhole and sleeve cuff, being careful not to stretch edging while pinning. Beg pinning flush with beg of edging strip. Leave extra length at fasten-off end of edging strip on other side. Leave sleeve side seams open. Arrange elements with WS facing and pin to felt.With sewing needle and thread baste edging and elements to backing fabric to secure firmly in place.Crochet elements tog and work crochet net in gaps.Using a wet pressing cloth, iron sleeves.Remove basting thread and separate sleeves from felt.Whipstitch (see Glossary) side seam of sleeves, raveling any extra length of edging.Pin sleeves to armholes, placing sleeve edge above armhole edge aligning side seams and centerline.With sewing needle and matching thread, sew on sleeve using backstitch (see Glossary) through center holes of edging. Block as desired. �

Muse TunicHannah Cuviello

PLUS SIZE

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 31¼ (35¼, 39¼, 43¼, 47¼, 51¼)" bust circumference. Garment shown measures 35¼", modeled with 1¼" ease. Garment is meant to be quite �tted, with 1–3" of negative ease.YARN Knit Picks Galileo (50% merino, 50% viscose from bamboo; 131 yd [120 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #26104 gem, 11 (13, 15, 16,

12

3 4

= chain (ch)

= slip st (sl st)


Stitch Key

Flower

79_CRSU13_LATimes.indd 85 5/14/13 11:37 AM


LA T

imes

18, 20) skeins for full tunic, 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) skeins for lace overlay only. Note: Add an extra skein if you are including optional short row bust shaping (see Notes). Yarn distributed by Crafts Americana.HOOK Sizes D/3 (3.25 mm), E/4 (3.5 mm), G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS St markers (m); 2 yd ribbon for straps (3⁄8–¾" wide); yarn needle; 1 set bra strap adjusters (loop and slide); pins; sewing needle and thread.GAUGE 25 sts and 28 rows = 4" in sc with medium hook; 2 reps and 8 rows = 3¼" in ch-lace patt with largest hook.

NotesLace overlay is not attached at underarms,

which gives you the option of wearing it with your arms inside or outside of the lace. Lace overlay can also be made separately and sewn to a tank top or summer dress.

Work all decs 1 st in from edge of row. Short Row Charts are located on

CrochetMe.com. For each step of instruc-tions, find the cell on the chart pertaining to your bust size and cup size.

Body is worked in one piece and is sewn along center back. Overlay is worked sepa-rately and is joined to body with sc seam.

Stitch GuideTriple Loop (TL): (Sc, [ch 7, sc] 3 times) all in same st.Chain Lace Pattern (ch-lace patt; multiple of 10 sts + 1):With largest hook, ch 37 for gauge swatch.Row 1: (RS) TL (see above) in 12th ch from hook, *ch 4, sk 4 ch, dc in next ch**, ch 4, sk 4 ch, TL in next ch; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, turn.Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 1, sc in first ch-7 lp of next TL, [ch 3, sc in next ch-7 lp of same TL] 2 times, ch 1, sc in next dc; rep from * across, placing last sc in ch-11 lp at beg of Row 1, turn.Row 3: Ch 8, (sc, ch 7, sc) in first sc, *ch 4, sk next sc, dc in next sc, ch 4, sk next sc**, TL in next sc; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, (sc, ch 7, sc, ch 3, tr) in last sc, turn.Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first tr, ch 3, sc in next ch-7 lp, *ch 1, sc in next dc, ch 1, sc in first ch-7 lp of next TL**, [ch 3, sc in next ch-7 lp of same TL] 2 times; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 3, sc in ch-8 lp, turn.Row 5: Ch 7, sk first 2 sc, *TL in next sc, ch 4, sk next sc, dc in next sc**, ch 4, sk next sc; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, turn.Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 1, sc in first ch-7 lp of next TL, [ch 3, sc in next ch-7 lp of same TL] 2 times, ch 1, sc in next dc; rep from * across, placing last sc in ch-7 lp from beg of Row 5, turn.Rep Rows 3–6 for patt.Increasing in Chain Lace Pattern (inc-lace patt):Row 1: (RS) Ch 8, (sc, ch 7, sc, ch 3, tr) in 8th

ch from hook, turn—1 TL.Row 2: Ch 3, sc in tr, ch 3, sc in next ch-7 lp, ch 3, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next lp, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, TL in ch-1 sp, ch 4, sk next sc, dc in next sc, ch 4, sk next sc, (sc, [ch 7, sc] 2 times, ch 3, tr) in last ch-3 sp, turn—2 TL.Row 4: Ch 3, sc in tr, [ch 3, sc in next ch-7 lp] 2 times, ch 1, sc in next dc, ch 1, [sc in next ch-7 lp, ch 3] 2 times, (sc, ch 1, dc) in last ch-7 lp, turn.Row 5: Ch 1, TL in ch-1 sp, ch 4, sk next sc, dc in next sc, *ch 4, sk next sc, TL in next sc, ch 4, sk next sc, dc in next sc; rep from * across, end with ch 4, (sc, [ch 7, sc] 2 times, ch 3, tr) in last ch-3 sp, turn—3 TL.Row 6: Ch 3, sc in tr, *[ch 3, sc in next ch-7 lp] 2 times, ch 1, sc in next dc, ch 1, sc in next ch-7 lp; rep from * across, end with ch 3, sc in next ch-7 lp, ch 3**, (sc, ch 1, dc) in last ch-7 lp, turn.Rep Rows 5–6 for patt.

PatternBODYWith medium hook, ch 203 (228, 253, 278, 303, 328).Change to smallest hook.Set-up row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—202 (227, 252, 277, 302, 327) sc.Next row: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.Work even in sc for 1". Change to medium hook and work even in sc until piece measures 4" from beg, ending with a WS row. Shape waist: Place 4 m for waist darts as foll: In 34th (39th, 43rd, 47th, 51st, 55th) st, 76th (86th, 95th, 104th, 114th, 123rd) st, 126th (141st, 157th, 173rd, 188th, 204th) st, and 168th (188th, 209th, 230th, 251st, 272nd) st.Dec row: (RS) Ch 1, *sc to m, sc in marked st, sc2tog (see Glossary) over next 2 sts, sc to 2 sts before next m, sc2tog, sc in marked st; rep from * once, sc to end, turn—4 sts dec. Cont in sc and rep Dec row every 4th row 8 times, then every RS row 3 times—154 (179, 204, 229, 254, 279) sts.Work even in sc until piece measures 11½" from beg, ending with WS row. Inc row: (RS) Ch 1, *sc to m, sc in marked st, 2 sc in next st, sc to 1 st before next m, 2 sc in next st, sc in marked st; rep from * once, sc to end, turn—4 sts inc. Rep Inc row every 4 (4, 2, 2, 2, 2) rows 9 (9, 1, 2, 3, 3) times, then every 0 (0, 4, 4, 4, 4) rows 0 (0, 8, 7, 6, 6) times. Work 1 WS row.Next row: (RS) Ch 1, sc to 1 st before 2nd m, 2 sc in next st, sc in marked st, sc to 3rd m, sc in marked st, 2 sc in next st, sc to end, turn—196 (221, 246, 271, 296, 321) sts.Work 1 WS row. Piece measures 17 (17, 16¾, 16¼, 16, 16)" from beg. Shape back:Next row: (RS) Sl st in first 6 (7, 9, 10, 11, 14) sts, sc to last 6 (7, 9, 10, 11, 14) sts, turn leaving rem sts unworked.Dec row: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc2tog, sc to last

3 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st, turn.Rep Dec row 11 times—160 (183, 204, 227, 250, 269) stsAt this point, should you wish to add short row bust shaping, see short row shaping charts.Rep Dec row every RS row 3 times, ending with a WS row—154 (177, 198, 221, 244, 263) sts; piece measures 19½ (19½, 19¼, 19, 18¾, 18¾)" from beg.

Left back strap:Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first 14 (14, 15, 16, 17, 17) sts, sc2tog, sc in next st, turn leaving rem sts unworked. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc2tog, sc to end, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc to last 3 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st, turn.Rows 4–11 (11, 12, 13, 14, 14): Rep Rows 2–3—6 sts rem. Work 5 (5, 4, 3, 2, 2) rows even. Fasten off. Right back strap:With RS facing, re-join yarn with sl st 17 (17, 18, 19, 20, 20) sts from end. Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc2tog, sc to end, turn.Row 2: Ch 1, sc to last 3 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st, turn.Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc2tog, sc to end, turn. Rows 4–11 (11, 12, 13, 14, 14): Rep Rows 2–3—6 sts rem. Work 5 (5, 4, 3, 2, 2) rows even. Fasten off. Shape front:120 (143, 162, 183, 204, 223) sts rem bet back straps. With RS facing, beg at inner base of left back strap, sk 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) sts and re-join yarn in next st. Next row: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc2tog, sc in next 82 (101, 116, 133, 150, 165) sts, sc2tog, sc in next st, turn. Dec row: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc2tog, sc to last 3 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st, turn.Rep Dec row every row 9 (9, 13, 13, 17, 17) times more, then every RS row 2 times, ending with a WS row—62 (81, 88, 105, 114, 129) sts rem.



LA Tim

es

Left front strap:Next row: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first st, sc2tog, sc in next 14 (22, 24, 31, 34, 40) sts, sc2tog, sc

in next st, turn leaving rem sts unworked—18 (26, 28, 35, 38, 44) sts.Cont to dec 1 st at armhole edge every RS row

8 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14) times and at the same time dec 1 st at neck edge every 5 (2, 2, 1, 2, 1) rows 3 (9, 5, 1, 14, 12) times, then every 6 (3, 3, 2, 0, 2) rows 1 (1, 5, 12, 0, 8) times—6 (6, 6, 10, 10, 10) sts rem. Fasten off.

Right front strap:With RS facing, sk 22 (25, 28, 31, 34, 37) sts from base of left front strap and rejoin yarn in next st with sl st.Next row: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc2tog, sc in next 14 (22, 24, 31, 34, 40) sts, sc2tog, sc in last st, turn—18 (26, 28, 35, 38, 44) sts.Complete as for left front strap.Short Row Bust Shaping (optional):See CrochetMe.com for shaping charts.LACE OVERLAYUse largest hook throughout.Right front strap:Work Rows 1–5 of inc-lace patt (see Stitch Guide). Fasten off and set aside. Left front strap:Work Rows 1–6 of inc-lace patt, ending at **, sc in last ch-7 lp, ch 21 (21, 21, 31, 31, 31), work Row 6 of inc-lace patt across right front strap, omitting initial ch 3, turn. Shape front:Note: On next row, work across ch as for Row 1 of ch–lace patt (see Stitch Guide), beg with TL in first ch.Work Rows 5–6 of inc-lace patt 1 (2, 3, 4, 4, 5) times, then rep Row 5 once more—11 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17) TL. Fasten off.Right back strap:Row 1: (RS) Ch 8, (sc, ch 7, sc, ch 3, tr) in 8th ch from hook, turn.Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first tr, ch 1, sc in next ch-7 lp, ch 3, sc in next ch-7 lp, turn.Row 3: Ch 7 (count as dc and ch 4), sk next

32¼ (36¼, 40¼, 44¼, 48¼, 52¼)"82 (92, 102, 112.5, 122.5, 132.5) cm

Note: Optional short row shaping is not shown on schematic.Short row shaping will add 1¼" for a C cup, 1½" for a D cup, 2" for an E cup, 2½" for an F cup and 3¼" for a G cup.

2¼"

5.5

cm

LACE OVERLAY

BODY

34¼ (40¾, 44, 48¾, 52, 55¼)" 87 (103.5, 112, 124, 132, 140.5) cm

31¼ (35¼, 39¼, 43¼, 47¼, 51¼)" 79.5 (89.5, 99.5, 110, 120, 130) cm

24¾ (28¾, 32¾, 36¾, 40¾, 44¾)" 63 (73, 83, 93.5, 103.5, 113.5) cm

8¼ (9¾, 9¾, 9¾, 11½, 11½)" 21 (25, 25, 25, 29, 29) cm

5 (5¾, 6½, 7¼, 7¼, 8¼)" 12.5 (14.5, 16.5, 18.5, 18.5, 21) cm

5½ (5½, 6½, 6½, 7¾, 7¾)" 14 (14, 16.5, 16.5, 19.5, 19.5) cm

5¾ (7½, 8, 9½, 10¼, 12¾)" 12.5 (19, 20.5, 24, 26, 32.5) cm

1 (1, 1, 1½, 1½, 1½)" 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 4, 4, 4) cm

3¼ (3¼, 3¾, 3¾, 4¼, 4¼)" 8.5 (8.5, 9.5, 9.5, 11, 11) cm

1" 2.5 cm

32¼ (36¼, 40¼, 44¼, 48¼, 52¼)" 82 (92, 102, 112.5, 122.5, 132.5) cm

3¾"

9.5

cm9

(9, 8

¾, 8

½, 8

¼, 8

¼)"

23

(23,

22,

21.

5, 2

1, 2

1) c

m10

½"

26.5

cm

11½

(12¼

, 13,

13¾

, 13¾

, 15½

)"

29 (3

1, 3

3, 3

5, 3

5, 3

9.5)

cm

17 (1

7, 1

6¾, 1

6¼, 1

6, 1

6)"

43 (4

3, 4

2.5,

41.

5, 4

0.5,

40.

5) c

m8

(8, 9

¼, 9

¼, 1

0¼, 1

0¼)"

20

.5 (2

0.5,

23.

5, 2

3.5,

26,

26)

cm

2¼"

5.5

cm

25 (2

5, 2

6, 2

5½, 2

6¼, 2

6¼)"

63

.5 (6

3.5,

66,

65,

66.

5, 6

6.5)

cm

1

3

5

2

6

4

7

REDUCED SAMPLE OF PATTERN

REPEAT

Muse Tunic Diagram= chain (ch)



= triple loop (TL)


Stitch Key



LA T

imes

sc, (sc, [ch 7, sc] 2 times, ch 3, tr) in last sc, turn.Row 4: Ch 3, sc in tr, [ch 3, sc in next ch-7 lp] 2 times, ch 1, sc in ch-7 lp at beg of Row 3, turn.Row 5: Ch 8, (sc, ch 7, sc) in first sc, ch 4, sk next sc, dc in next sc, ch 4, (sc, [ch 7, sc] 2 times, ch 3, tr) in last ch-3 sp, turn. Fasten off and set aside.Left back strap:Row 1: (RS) Ch 8, (sc, ch 7, sc, ch 3, tr) in 8th ch from hook, turn.Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first tr, ch 3, sc in next ch-7 lp, ch 1, sc in next ch-7 lp, turn.Row 3: Ch 1, TL in first sc, ch 4, sk next sc, dc in last sc, turn.Row 4: Ch 1, sc in dc, ch 1, [sc in next ch-7 lp, ch 3] 2 times, (sc, ch 1, dc) in last ch-7 lp, turn.Row 5: Ch 1, TL in ch-1 sp, ch 4, sk next sc, dc in next sc, ch 4, (sc, ch 7, sc, ch 3, tr) in last sc, turn.Join back straps to front:Joining row: (WS) Work Row 4 of ch-lace patt across left back strap, ch 1 (1, 11, 11, 21, 21), sc in first tr of front, cont in patt across front, ch 1 (1, 11, 11, 21, 21), sc in first tr of right back strap, cont in patt to end of row, turn.Work Row 5 of ch-lace patt, working across ch at underarms as for Row 1 of ch–lace patt, beg with TL in first ch—14 (16, 18, 19, 21, 22) TL.Work Row 6 of inc-lace patt.Lace short row shaping (optional):See CrochetMe.com. Bodice:Rep Rows 5–6 of inc-lace patt 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3) times, then rep Row 5 once more—17 (19, 21, 22, 24, 26) TL. Fasten off.Shape back:With WS facing, ch 11 (21, 21, 31, 31, 31), work Row 6 of inc-lace patt across bodice, omitting initial ch 3 and ending with sc in last ch-7 lp, ch 19 (29, 29, 39, 39, 39), turn. Next row: (RS) (Sc, ch 7, sc) in 9th ch from hook, work Row 1 of ch-lace patt from * across ch, work in patt across bodice, work Row 1 of ch-lace patt across ch, ending with TL in last ch, turn—21 (25, 27, 30, 32, 34) TL.Work even in ch-lace patt for 7 rows or until bodice is desired length, ending with a WS row.Last row: (RS) Ch 1, work sc in each sc and ch-1 sp and 3 sc in each ch-3 sp across. Fasten off. FINISHINGBlock both pieces.Attach overlay to body as foll:Place overlay on top of body and pin in place. With RS facing, beg at center back, working through both layers and working 1 sc in every st and row of body, sc across back, up left back shaping, around top of left back strap, and down 1" along armhole side of left back strap, working through lace layer only, work 5 sc in each ch-4 sp, 1 sc at base of each TL to

1" below top of armhole edge of left front, beg working through both layers to top of strap, ch 41, turn and sl st back down ch to top of strap, sc across top of strap, ch 41, sl st back down ch to left neck edge, sc across neck and up right neck edge, ch 41, sl st back down ch and sc across top of right front strap, ch 41, sl st back down ch and sc 1" down armhole edge of strap, work as before through lace only to 1" below top of right back strap, sc through both layers around top of right back strap and down back shaping to center back. Fasten off. Sew back seam.Attach straps as foll: Thread ends of chains through bra loop and sew ends to themselves. Starting at base of armhole shaping, sew ribbon to WS along inner edge of back strap; do same for back shaping edge. Thread ribbon ends through figure 8 piece of bra adjustor, through bra loop and back around center bar of fig 8, then sew ends of ribbon to self. For a guide, look at the straps of one of your bras. �

Meander BackpackLisa Soutendijk

Getting StartedFINISHED SIZE 16 (18¾)" high, 25 (28¼)" circumference.YARN Brown Sheep Company Cotton Fleece (80% cotton, 20% wool; 215 yd [197 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #375 rue (MC), 2 (3) skeins; #240 pink-a-boo (A) and #745 wild iris (B), 1 skein each.HOOK Size G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Yarn needle; 6 st markers (m); 4" length of cardboard for tassels; 12" x 44" piece of fabric for optional lining.GAUGE First 7 rnds = 4", 18 sts and 14 rows = 4" in patt. Each Greek key block = 3½" square.

NotesBackpack is worked in joined rnds. Bottom

and body are worked in joined rnds with RS facing, Greek key patt is worked in joined,

turned rnds.Beg ch-3 counts as a dc throughout.Beg ch-2 does not count as a st.For Greek key design, always skip sc behind

FPdc. All even numbered rnds are WS rnds. When changing colors, work st until last 2 lps are on hook, pull new color through to finish st. Carry color not in use on WS of work.

Stitch GuideIncrease (inc): Work (sc, dc) or (dc, sc) in each of next 2 sts.

PatternBACKPACKBottom:With MC make adjustable ring (see Glossary).Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 2 (does not count as hdc throughout), 8 hdc in ring, sl st in first hdc to join, do not turn (see Notes)—8 hdc.Rnd 2: Ch 1, (sc, dc) in each st around, sl st in first sc to join—8 sc, 8 dc.Rnd 3: Ch 3, sc in next st, [(dc, sc) in next 2 sts, dc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, (dc, sc) in next 2 sts, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—24 sts.Rnd 4: Ch 1, [(sc, dc) in next 2 sts, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 2 times] 4 times, sl st in first sc to join—32 sts.Rnd 5: Ch 3, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 2 times, [(sc, dc) in next 2 sts, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 3 times] 3 times, (sc, dc) in next 2 sts, sc in last st, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—40 sts.Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in next st, dc in next st, [(sc, dc) in next 2 sts, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 4 times] 3 times, (sc, dc) in next 2 sts, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 3 times, sl st in first sc to join—48 sts.Rnd 7: Ch 3, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 4 times [(sc, dc) in next 2 sts, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 5 times] 3 times, (sc, dc) in next 2 sts, sc in last st, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—56 sts.Rnd 8: Ch 1, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 2 times [(sc, dc) in next 2 sts, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 6 times] 3 times, (sc, dc) in next 2 sts, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 4 times, sl st in first sc to join—64 sts.Rnd 9: Ch 3, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 6 times, [(sc, dc) in next 2 sts, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 7 times] 3 times, (sc, dc) in next 2 sts, sc in last st, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—72 sts.Rnd 10: Ch 1, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 3 times, [(sc, dc) in next 2 sts, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 8 times] 3 times, (sc, dc) in next 2 sts [sc in next st, dc in next st] 5 times, sl st in first sc—80 sts.Rnd 11: Ch 3, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 8 times, [(sc, dc) in next 2 sts, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 9 times] 3 times, (sc, dc) in next 2 sts, sc in last st, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—88 sts.Rnd 12: Ch 1, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 5 times, [(sc, dc) in next 2 sts, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 10 times] 3 times, (sc, dc) in next 2



CALIFORNIA

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Uncommon Threads—Los Altoswww.uncommonthreadsyarn.comBeautiful yarns from around the world.293 State St. (650) 941-1815

Knit Culture Studio—Los Angeleswww.knitculture.comWide selection of unique and hand-dyed yarns, patterns, books, classes, and crafting supplies. Amazing customer service!8118 W. 3rd St. (323) 655-6487

Zoe Zeynep Knit Studio—Los Angeleswww.zoezeynep.comUnique yarns & vibrant colors in a fabulous West Hollywood Location! Classes, cus-tom knitwear and outstanding customer service.7201 Melrose Ave. (323) 936-7690

Once Around—Mill Valleywww.oncearound.comThe felting, stamping, embroidery, fab-ric-painting, wreath-making, embossing, scrapbooking, decoupage, candle-crafting, bookbinding, glitter, sewing, knitting and, more . . . ARTS and CRAFTS STORE.352 Miller Ave. 415) 389-1667

COLORADO

Table Rock Llamas Fiber Arts Studio Inc.—Colorado Springswww.tablerockllamas.comKnitting, crochet, spinning, weaving, felt-ing, and dyeing.6520 Shoup Rd. (866) 495-7747

Wild Yarns—Denverwildyarns.com Knit & Crochet Supplies & Classes. Featur-ing yarns from Colorado and the West. (303) 433-3762

CONNECTICUT

Woolworks Ltd.—Putnamwww.woolworksltd.comA world of fiber at your fingertips.154 Main St. (860) 963-1228

FLORIDA

A Good Yarn—Sarasotawww.agoodyarnsarasota.comThere’s something for everyone at A Good Yarn, Sarasota’s ultimate creative spot for all things yarn!7418 S. Tamiami Trl. (941) 487-7914

Yarn Therapy, Inc.—Tallahasseewww.yarntherapyinc.comYarn Therapy offers the latest in beautiful, natural fibers for your knitting/crocheting pleasure! We are Tallahassee's Midtown Yarn Location!1760 Thomasville Rd. (850) 577-0555

IDAHO

Alpaca Direct—Haydenwww.AlpacaDirect.comHuge selection of luxury yarn, roving, and knitting supplies. Classes and support.1016 W. Hayden Ave. (208) 209-7079 (888) 306-0111

ILLINOIS

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Wool, Warp & Wheel—Richmondwww.woolwarpandwheel.comSpinning, weaving, and knitting supplies and equipment. Tue–Fri 7–9:30, Sat–Sun 10–5.5605 Mill St. (815) 678-4063

INDIANA

Knitting Off Broadway—Fort Waynewww.knittingoffbroadway.comLocated in a restored 1890’s building, this full-service yarn store specializes in unique and hard-to-find fibers.1309 Broadway (260) 422-YARN

KANSAS

Twist—Wichitawww.twistyarnshop.comEverything for knit and crochet. Sit and stitch, Wi-Fi, and classes.607 W. Douglas Ave. (316) 262-9276

MASSACHUSETTS

The Woolpack—Actonwww.woolpackyarn.comYearn for Yarn? Unwind your mind and knit yourself silly in our cozy fiber mercantile.Acton Woods Plaza/340 Great Rd. (978) 263-3131

Stitch House—Dorchesterwww.stitchhousedorchester.comVery cool place to buy yarn, learn to knit, sew, crochet, or have a party.846 Dorchester Ave. (617) 265-8013

MISSISSIPPI

Knutty Knitters—Yazoo CityWe carry over 60 lines of lovely yarns as well as books, needles, lessons, workshops, fel-lowship, and great fun.128 S. Main St. (662) 746-7555

NEW HAMPSHIRE

The Fiber Studio—Hennikerwww.fiberstudio.comNatural-fiber yarns for knitting and weav-ing, needles, books, looms, and spinning wheels. Our own handpainted yarns.161 Foster Hill Rd. (603) 428-7830

Yarn Garden—Littletonwww.yarngardennh.comA beautiful shop with a friendly, knowl-edgeable staff and a wide spectrum of yarns, books, needles, and classes. 106 Main St. (603) 444-5915

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Woolbearers—Mount Hollywww.woolbearers.comFull-service knitting, spinning, weaving, and dyeing shop specializing in handpainted fiber and yarns, spinning, and weaving equipment.90 High St. (609) 914-0003

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NEW YORK

Lion Brand Yarn Studio—New Yorkwww.lionbrandyarnstudio.comWide selection of Lion Brand yarns, free knit and crochet demonstrations, classes, and special events.34 W. 15th St. (212) 243-9070

OREGON

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089_CRSU13SLcw.indd 89 5/9/13 4:49 PM


LA T

imes

sts, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 5 times, sl st in first sc to join—96 sts.Rnd 13: Ch 3, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 10 times, [(sc, dc) in next 2 sts, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 11 times] 3 times, (sc, dc) in next 2 sts, sc in last st, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—104 sts.Rnd 14: Ch 1, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 5 times, [(sc, dc) in next 2 sts, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 12 times] 3 times, (sc, dc) in next 2 sts, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 7 times, sl st in first sc to join—112 sts.Large bag only:Rnd 15: Ch 3, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 12 times, [(sc, dc) in next 2 sts, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 13 times] 3 times, (sc, dc) in next 2 sts, sc in last st, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—120 sts.Rnd 16: Ch 1, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 6 times, [(sc, dc) in next 2 sts, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 14 times] 3 times, (sc, dc) in next 2 sts, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 8 times, sl st in first sc to join—128 sts.All sizes:Rnd 15 (17): Ch 3, sc in next dc, dc in next sc, place marker (pm) for strap, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 44 (52) times, pm, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 10 (18) times, sc in last st, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—112 (128) sts.Rnd 16 (18): Ch 1, sc in next st, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 55 (71) times, dc in last st, sl st in first sc to join—112 (128) sts.Rnd 17 (19): Rep Rnd 15 (17) changing to A in last st. Fasten off MC.Greek key design:Rnd 1: (RS) With A, ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc, turn (see Notes)—112 (128) sc. Rnd 2: (WS) Ch 1, sc around, change to B (see Notes), do not fasten off A, sl st in first sc, turn.Rnd 3: With B, ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc, turn. Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc around, change to A, sl st in first sc, turn.Rnd 5: With A, ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, [FPdc (see Glossary) around post of sc on Rnd 2] 2 times, [sc in next 14 sts, FPdc in next 2 sts] 6 (8) times, sc in last 8 sts, sl st in first sc, turn. Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc and FPdc around, change to B in last st, sl st in first sc, turn.Rnd 7: With B, ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, [*(FPdc around post of sc on Rnd 4) 2 times, sc in next 2 sts, (FPdc in next st on Rnd 4) 2 times,* sc in next 10 sts] 6 (8) times; rep from * to*, sc in last 6 sts, sl st in first sc, turn.Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc around, change to A, sl st in first sc, turn.Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, [*(FPdc in next st on Rnd 6) 2 times, sc in next 2 sts, (FPdc in next st on Rnd 6) 2 times, sc in next 2 sts, (FPdc in next st on Rnd 6) 2 times,* sc in next 6 sts] 6 (8) times; rep from * to *, sc in last 4 sts, sl st in first sc, turn.Rnd 10: Rep Rnd 6.Rnd 11: Ch 1, [(FPdc in next st on Rnd 8) 2 times, sc in next 2 sts] 28 (32) times, sl st in first FPdc, turn.Rnd 12: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc in first 6 sts, [*(FPdc in next st on Rnd 10) 2 times, sc in next 2 sts, (FPdc in next st on Rnd 10) 2 times, sc in next 2 sts, (FPdc in next st on Rnd 10) 2 times,* sc in next 6 sts.] 6 (8) times; rep from * to *, sl st in first sc, turn.Rnd 14: Rep Rnd 6.Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc in first 8 sts [*(FPdc in next st on Rnd 12) 2 times, sc in next 2 sts, (FPdc in next st on Rnd 12) 2 times,* sc in next 10 sts)] 6 (8) times; rep from * to *, sc in last 2 sts, sl st in first sc, turn.Rnd 16: Rep Rnd 8. Fasten off B. Rnd 17: Ch 1, sc in first 10 sts, [(FPdc in next st on Rnd 14) 2 times, sc in next 14 sts] 6 (8) times, (FPdc in next st on Rnd 14) 2 times, sc in rem 4 sts, sl st in first sc, turn.Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc around, change to MC, sl st in first sc. Fasten off A.

Body:Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 56 (64) times, sl st in first sc to join, do not turn (see Notes)—112 (128) sts. Rnd 2: Ch 3, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] 55 (63) times, sc in last st, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join.Rnds 3–19 (27): Rep Rnds 1–2, or to desired length, ending with a Rnd 1.Top:Rnd 1 (eyelet rnd): Ch 4, (counts as first dc and ch-1 sp), [sk next dc, (dc, ch 1) in next st] 55 (63) times, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 4 to join, do not turn (see Notes).Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, [dc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc] 55 (63) times, dc in last ch-1 sp, sl st in first sc to join.Rnd 3: Ch 3, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] 55 (63) times, sc in last dc, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join.Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, [dc in next sc, sc in next dc] 55 (63) times, dc in last st, sl st in first sc to join.Rnds 5–6: Rep Rnds 3–4.Rnd 7: Ch 3, sc in next st, dc in next st, sc in next st, pm for strap, [dc in next st, sc in next st] 2 times, dc, pm, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 47 (55) times, sc in next st, pm, [dc in next st,

sc in next st] 2 times, dc in next st, pm, sc in next st, dc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 1. Do not fasten off. Pm in live lp to hold st, remove hook.Straps:Right strap:With MC and RS of backpack facing, and open-ing of bag facing up, join with sc around post of marked dc, on Rnd 15 of bottom. Row 1: [Sc around post of next st] 5 times, turn—6 sts.Row 2: Ch 1, [sc in next st, dc in next st] 3 times, turn.Rows 3–65: Rep Row 2 until strap measures about 24–25" slightly stretched, ending with a RS row. Fasten off. Weave in ends.Left strap:With MC and RS of backpack facing and open-ing of bag facing up, join with sc around post of 2nd marked dc on Rnd 15. Work as for right strap.Join strap, cont top:Rnd 1: Pick up ch-1 from Rnd 7 of top. Sc in same st, dc in next sc, sc in next dc. Align left strap with next 6 sts on last rnd (insert hook through st on strap first) [*(dc through both thicknesses of next sc, sc through both thicknesses of next dc] 3 times*, [dc in next sc, sc in next dc] 47 (55) times; with right strap, rep from * to *, dc in next sc, sc in next dc, dc in last sc, sl st in first sc to join.Rnd 2: Ch 3, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] 55 (63) times, sc in last dc, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join.Rnd 3: Ch 1, [rev sc (see Glossary) in next sc, ch 1, sk next dc] 55 (63) times, sl st in first rev sc, inserting hook from WS pulling yarn to WS. Fasten off. Drawstring (make 2):With 2 strands of MC held tog, ch 115 (132) leaving 8" tail on each end.Fold backpack in half with straps centered, weave in one drawstring starting at left side, then weave other drawstring starting at right side. You should have 56 (64) sts on each side of ends of drawstring. Tie ends of each drawstring tog 2 times, for extra durability. Do not cut ends.FINISHINGWeave in ends.Tassels:With MC, wrap yarn around a 4" piece of card-board 50 times, cut at one edge. Wrap lengths over ends of drawstring knotted tog. With a 10" piece of yarn, tie knots very tightly around tassel top on both sides to form head of tassel. Snip all ends of tassel to desired length.Optional lining:With a 12" × 44" piece of fabric, cut 9"(10") diameter circle, cut 10" x 26" (12" x 29¼") rectangle. With ½" seam allowance and RS fac-ing, sew short ends of rectangle tog. Sew circle to one end of tube, fold seam ½" down on other end, sew in place. Place inside backpack, hand sew to backpack 2 rows below drawstring rnd. �


yarn shop directory • crochet marketplacePENNSYLVANIA

Natural Stitches—Pittsburghwww.naturalstitches.comBest selection of natural fibers in Pitts-burgh. Knowledgeable staff. Open 7 days. Evenings, too! 6401 Penn Ave. (412) 441-4410

TENNESSEE

Smoky Mountain Spinnery —Gatlinburgwww.smokymountainspinnery.comCome shop in our comfortable surround-ings. Everything for spinning, weaving, knitting, crocheting, and needlefelting. Antiques and gifts, too.466 Brookside Village Wy., Ste. 8 (865) 436-9080

TEXAS

Yarntopia—Katywww.yarntopia.netYarntopia carries a multitude of specialty yarns that are sure to please every crafter. Stitching groups and classes available.2944 S. Mason Rd., Ste. M (281) 392-2386

Wools & Tools—Killeenwww.WoolsAndTools.comArtisan and premium yarns, handpainted and natural fiber. Needles, spindles, and accesso-ries. Classes and groups for everyone!811 South W.S. Young Dr. (254) 449-6555

WC Mercantile—Navasotawww.wcmercantile.com“The BEST little Wool shop in Texas!” Fea-turing natural fibers for knitting and spin-ning. Lots of local Texas yarns, too!201 E. Washington Ave. (936) 825-3378


EVENTS

25TH ANNUAL VERMONT SHEEP & WOOL FESTIVAL. Tunbridge, VT, Sep-tember 28 & 29, 2013. Vendors, fiber ani-mals, classes, contests, demos & more. www.vtsheepandwoolfest.org.

Fall KNIT & CROCHET SHOW – Concord, NC – OverTheTop! Four Days of Fashion, Fiber & Classes (hundreds to choose from!) October 2-6 in Concord, NC. www.Knitand CrochetShow.com.

Summer KNIT & CROCHET SHOW – Indianapolis – Outasight! Four Days of Fash-ion, Fiber & Classes (hundreds to choose from!) July 17-21 in Indianapolis, IN. www.Knitand CrochetShow.com.

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX

Alpaca Yarn Company The . . . . . . . . 29

Cascade Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . bc

Cooperative Press . . . . . . . . . . . . 73

Denise Interchangeable Knitting & Crochet . . . . . . . . . . . . 73

Handy Hands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Interweave . . . . . 3, 5, 13, 15, 25, 27, 31, . . . . . . . . . . 55, 57, 59, 69, 71, ibc, ifc

Knitters Pride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Of�nger Management . . . . . . . . . . 73

Omega Distribudora de Hilos S.A. de C.V. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Skacel Collection . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Tahki Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Universal Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Webs/America's Yarn Store . . . . . . . . 27

Yarnmarket Inc* . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

BOOKSMAGAZINESDVDsMORE


Shop.

UTAH

Blazing Needles—Salt Lake Citywww.blazing-needles.comWe’re your friendly Sugarhouse commu-knitty. Unique yarns and classes to inspire everyone.1365 S. 1100 E. (801) 487-5648 (KNIT)

WASHINGTON

Paradise Fibers—Spokanewww.paradisefibers.netTerrific selection of wool yarn, knitting nee-dles, wheels, and looms. Order online or stop in. Same-day shipping!225 W. Indiana Ave. (888) 320-7746

WYOMING

The Fiber House—Sheridanwww.thefiberhouse.comFleece to fashion and fun! Local alpaca yarn. Books, notions, classes, and 30+ yarn lines! [email protected]. 146 Coffeen Ave. (307) 673-0383

WEBSITES TO VISIT

WWW.HEIRLOOMCROCHET.COM. This is where you will find a large selection of vintage and antique crochet and lacemaking books on CD. We also sell fine crochet hooks, threads, and supplies.

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glossary

Abbreviations

Yarn: DK, Light Worsted Gauge: 12–17 sts Hook (metric): 3.5–4.5 mm Hook (U.S.): G-7 to I-9

Yarn: Sock, Fingering, Baby Gauge*: 21–32 sts Hook (metric): 2.25–3.5 mm Hook (U.S.): B-1 to E-4

Yarn: Chunky, Craft, Rug Gauge: 8–11 sts Hook (metric): 6.5–9 mm Hook (U.S.): K-101⁄2 to M-13

Yarn: Sport, Baby Gauge: 16–20 sts Hook (metric): 3.5–4.5 mm Hook (U.S.): E-4 to G-7

Yarn: Bulky, Roving Gauge: 5–9 sts Hook (metric): 9 mm and largerHook (U.S.): M-13 and larger

Yarn: Fingering, 10-count crochet thread Gauge*: 33–40 sts Hook (metric): 1.5–2.25 mm Hook (U.S.): 000 to 1

Yarn: Worsted, Afghan, Aran Gauge: 11–14 sts Hook (metric): 5.5–6.5 mm Hook (U.S.): I-9 to K-101⁄2

Standard Yarn Weight System

Concentration Ratings:LITTLE CONCENTRATION REQUIRED. Straightforward s titching means your hands can work on autopilot.

SOME CONCENTRATION REQUIRED. Easily memorized stitch patterns and minimal shaping might require some focus and counting.

FAIR AMOUNT OF FOCUS REQUIRED. Involved stitch patterns, shaping, or assembly require fairly constant concentration.

EXTREME FOCUS REQUIRED. Unusual techniques or complex stitch patterns and shaping require constant focus.

The Craft Yarn Council of America has set up guidelines to bring uniformity to yarn labels and published patterns. Yarn Weight: �e yarn weight symbols that appear in “sources for supplies” are based on the system outlined above. We have consulted the yarn label, the

manufacturer’s website, and other resources, to classify these yarns as accurately as possible. We continue to o�er photos of each yarn to help you visualize the yarns used.

*Guidelines only: �e above re�ect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for speci�c yarn categories.

beg begin(s); beginning bet between blo back loop only CC contrasting color ch chain cm centimeter(s) cont continue(s); continuing dc double crochet dtr double treble crochet dec(s)(’d) decrease(s); decreasing; decreased est established fdc foundation double crochet f lo front loop only foll follows; following fsc foundation single crochet g gram(s) hdc half double crochet inc(s)(’d) increase(s); increasing; increased k knit lp(s) loop(s) MC main color m marker mm millimeter(s) patt(s) pattern(s) pm place marker p purl rem remain(s); remaining rep repeat; repeating rev sc reverse single crochet rnd(s) round(s) RS right side sc single crochet sk skip sl slip sl st slip(ped) stitch sp(s) space(es) st(s) stitch(es) tch turning chain tog together tr treble crochet WS wrong side yd yard yo yarn over hook * repeat starting point ( ) alternate measurements and/or instructions [ ] work bracketed instructions a specified

number of times

.comLook for this icon to indicate bonus content at crochetme.com.

Crochet GaugeTo check gauge, chain 30 to 40 stitches using recommended hook size. Work in pattern stitch until piece measures at least 4" (10 cm) from foundation chain. Lay swatch on flat surface. Place a ruler over swatch and count number of stitches across and number of rows down (including fractions of stitches and rows) in 4" (10 cm). Repeat two or three times on different areas of swatch to confirm measurements. If you have more stitches and rows than called for in instructions, use a larger hook; if you have fewer, use a smaller hook. Repeat until gauge is correct.

Look for this icon to indicate garments that include XL sizes.PLUS SIZE

Oops! Visit www.crochetme.com/content/Corrections.aspx for cor-rections to all issues of Interweave Crochet.

92_CRSU13Gloss.indd 92 5/9/13 4:53 PM


glossary

CHAIN (CH) Make a slipknot on hook, *yarn over and draw through loop of slipknot; repeat from * drawing yarn through last loop formed.

SLIP STITCH (SL ST)*Insert hook in stitch, yarn over and draw loop through stitch and loop on hook; repeat from *.

Learn to Crochet

SINGLE CROCHET (SC) *Insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (Figure 1), yarn over and draw through both loops on hook (Figure 2); repeat from *.

Figure 2Figure 1

HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (HDC)*Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over (Figure 1) and draw through all loops on hook (Figure 2); repeat from *.

Figure 2Figure 1

DOUBLE CROCHET (DC)*Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook; Figure 1), yarn over and draw through 2 loops (Figure 2), yarn over and draw through remaining 2 loops (Figure 3); repeat from *.

Figure 2 Figure 3Figure 1

TREBLE CROCHET (TR)*Yarn over 2 times, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (4 loops on hook; Figure 1), yarn over and draw through 2 loops (Figure 2), yarn over and draw through 2 loops, yarn over and draw through remaining 2 loops (Figure 3); repeat from *.

Figure 2Figure 1

Figure 3

DOUBLE CROCHET TWO TOGETHER (DC2TOG)[Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 2 times, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook—1 stitch decreased.

FOUNDATION SINGLE CROCHET (FSC) Start with a slipknot, chain 2. Insert hook in second chain from hook, pull up a loop. Yarn over, draw through 1 loop (the “chain”). Yarn over, draw through 2 loops (the single crochet). One sc with its own ch st (shad-ed) at the bottom. *Insert hook under the 2 loops of the “ch” st (shaded) of the last st and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops. Repeat from * for length of foundation.

DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (DTR)Yarn over three times and insert the hook in the sixth chain from the hook. Draw a loop through the chain—five loops on hook. Yarn over and draw through two loops at a time four times, completing the double treble crochet. After completing the first row, chain five and turn to begin next row. This chain-five will always count as the first double tre-ble crochet of the row you are working on. With yarn over three times, skip the first stitch and insert the hook in the next stitch. Complete the stitch following Step 2 of first row. Continue until the row is complete.

EXTENDED SINGLE CROCHET (ESC)Insert hook in next stitch or chain, yarn over and pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), yarn over and pull through 2 loops—1 esc completed.

ADJUSTABLE RINGPlace slipknot on hook, leaving a 4" tail. Wrap tail around fingers to form ring. Work stitches of first round into ring. At end of first round, pull tail to tighten ring.

CROCHETED CHAIN STITCHHolding yarn under background, insert hook through center of back-ground, pull up loop, *insert hook into background a short distance away, pull 2nd loop up through the first loop on hook; repeat from *.

HALF DOUBLE CROCHET TWO TOGETHER (HDC2TOG)[Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop] two times (five loops on hook). Yarn over and draw yarn through all loops on hook. Completed hdc2tog—one stitch decreased.

FRONT POST DOUBLE CROCHET (FPDC)Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of stitch to be worked, yarn over and pull up loop [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 2 times.

SINGLE CROCHET TWO TOGETHER (SC2TOG) Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (2 loops on hook, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook— 1 stitch decreased.

Figure 1 Figure 3Figure 2

Working from left to right, insert crochet hook in an edge stitch and pull up loop, yarn over and draw this loop through the first one to join, *insert hook in next stitch to right (Figure 1), pull up a loop, yarn over (Figure 2), and draw through both loops on hook (Figure 3); repeat from *.

REVERSE SINGLE CROCHET (REV SC)

WHIPSTITCH SEAMSPlace pieces with right sides together. Hold pieces with the 2 edges facing you.Step 1: Secure seaming yarn on wrong side of one piece. Pass needle through pieces from back to front at start of seam. This creates a small stitch to begin seam.Step 2: A little farther left, pass needle through pieces, again from back to front, wrapping seam edge. Repeat Step 2 to complete seam. Secure end of seam-ing yarn.

DOUBLE CROCHET THREE TOGETHER (DC3TOG)[Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through two loops] three times (four loops on hook), yarn over, draw through all loops on hook—two stitches decreased.

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MIMI ALELIS, a dedicated crocheter and blog-ger, designs and creates wearable fashion

with cotton thread. Follow her crochet adven-tures at www.mycrochetstuff.blogspot.com.

BRENDA K. B. ANDERSON makes mascots during the day. She cooks, crochets, and belly dances

at night. She lives in a little house in Saint Paul, Minnesota, with her awesome husband

and their hairy baby, Mr. Kittypants.

VASHTI BRAHA is a half-Irish girl who grew up in Wisconsin spinning her own yarn and dyeing it

with marigolds. Visit www.designingvashti .com to learn about her popular crochet

newsletter, classes, and Florida-inspired designs.

LORI M. CARLSON lives in North Carolina with her husband and is a dedicated feline

maintenance worker to six cats. When she is not crocheting, she is on a perpetual quest to find and eat the perfect cheeseburger. Follow

her at www.shronedesigns.blogspot.com.

ROBYN CHACHULA gives tips on fixing even the worst accidents without ever ripping out a

stitch, in her latest book, Blueprint Crochet Sweaters (Interweave, 2013). She designs and writes in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. She is also

the author of Blueprint Crochet, Baby Blueprint Crochet, Simply Crochet, and Unexpected Afghans

(all by Interweave).

DORIS CHAN enjoys developing designs that require the least amount of finishing. Her

latest book is Convertible Crochet: Customizable Designs for Stylish Garments

(Potter Craft, 2013). Visit her blog at www.dorischancrochet.com, and find her line of

indie patterns at www.designingvashti.com.

HANNAH CUVIELLO lives in Spokane, Washing-ton, where she manages her online yarn store, www.abundant-yarn.com. She spends the rest of her time knitting and crocheting, teaching

fiber arts, and singing.

JENNY KING loves to wear her crochet out in public. She has been designing and wearing

crochet nonstop ever since she turned her first granny blanket into a poncho at the age

of ten. See her more recent designs at www.jennykingdesigns.com.

KATHY MERRICK knits, crochets, and designs from her living room in the northwest corner

of the City of Brotherly Love. She is a frequent contributor to Interweave Crochet, which

makes her very happy.

CRISTINA MERSHON, a graphic designer and mother of four, works in an advertising agency during the day and crochets at night. A native

of Spain, she loves to create traditional pieces with modern twists.

DANIELA NII seeks new challenges with every project and uses a diverse range of techniques

and media to produce designs that highlight simplicity and elegance. The founder of

www.localfibers.com, she blogs at www.nikkisstudio.blogspot.com.

DORA OHRENSTEIN, crochet designer, author, and teacher, has written several books,

including her most recent, The New Tunisian Crochet (Interweave, 2013). Find crochet research and interviews on her website,

www.crochetinsider.com.

NATASHA ROBARGE lives in Texas and loves working with cotton and creating warm-weather garments. View her projects at

www.aperfectloop.com.

THERESA SCHABES has been designing and publishing knitwear for seven years, but this is

her first published crochet design. She loves discovering techniques that are better

on one hook—like motifs!

LISA SOUTENDIJK has been designing since the age of eight, when her 1970s Barbie dolls

needed a wardrobe. After serving in the United States Army, she married and had four children. She lives in Fishers, Indiana, where

she teaches and sells her crocheted items at a local gallery. Follow her work at

www.icrochetthereforeiam.com.

KATHRYN WHITE has a passion for thread and lace crochet. Her goal is to design fine crochet

pieces that have a place in today’s world. “Designing for me is a dance between my

soul and my hook,” she writes. See more of her work at www.crochetnbeads.com.

project designers

94_CRSU13_Bios.indd 94 5/14/13 11:37 AM

http://www.mycrochetstuff.blogspot.com

http://www.localfibers.com

http://www.nikkistudio.blogspot.com

http://www.crochetinsider.com

http://www.shronedesigns.blogspot.com

http://www.designingvashti.com

http://www.icrochetthereforeiam.com

http://www.aperfectloop.com

http://www.crochetnbeads.com

http://www.abundant-yarn.com

http://www.jennykingdesigns.com


sources for supplies

In the United States�e Alpaca Yarn Co., www.thealpacayarnco.com.Blue Sky Alpacas, www.blueskyalpacas.com.Brown Sheep Company, www.brownsheep.com.Cascade Yarns, www.cascadeyarns.com.Classic Elite Yarns, www.classiceliteyarns.com. Coats & Clark/Aunt Lydia’s, www.coatsandclark.com.Crafts Americana/KnitPicks, www.knitpicks.com.Creative Yarn Source/Omega, www.creativeyarnsource.com.Handy Hands/Lizbeth, www.hhtatting.com.Lorna’s Laces, www.lornaslaces.net.

*Yarns shown at actual size.

Plymouth Yarn, www.plymouthyarn.com.Skacel/Austermann, www.skacelknitting.com. South West Trading Co., www.soysilk.com.Spinrite/Bernat, www.spinriteyarns.com.Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc./S. Charles Collezione/Tahki Yarns,

www.tahkistacycharles.com.Universal Yarn /Nazli Gelin, www.universalyarn.com.WEBS/Valley Yarns, www.yarn.com.

International Yarn SourcesLouet North America, www.louet.com.

Lorna’s Laces Helen’s Lace; 2-ply; (pages 46, 53)

Louet Euro�ax Sport Weight; 4-ply; (pages 40, 48)

Nazli Gelin Garden 10 thread (Universal Yarn); 3-ply; (page 14)

Omega Dalia (Creative Yarn Source); 4-ply; (pages 62, 68)

Plymouth Yarn Cleo; three 2-ply strands ; (pages 74, 81)

S. Charles Collezione Luna (Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.); singles w/metallic wrap; ; (pages 47, 53)

S. Charles Collezione Crystal (Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.); 5-ply; (pages 47, 53)

South West Trading Co. Bamboo; ribbon; (pages 20, 22)

Tahki Yarns Tahki Cotton Classic Lite (Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.); �ve 2-ply strands; (pages 41, 49)

Valley Yarns Southwick (WEBS); thirteen 2-ply strands; (pages 63, 64)

The Alpaca Yarn Company Astral; singles; (pages 44, 51)

Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread size 10 (Coats & Clark); 3-ply; (pages 60, 66)

Austermann Algarve (Skacel); four 2-ply strands; (pages 21, 23, 24)

Bernat Cotton-ish by Vickie Howell; 4-ply; (pages 58, 59)

Blue Sky Alpacas Alpaca Silk; 3-ply ; (pages 18, 26)

Brown Sheep Company Cotton Fleece; three 6-ply strands ; (pages 76, 89)

Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Fine; 4-ply; (pages 76, 84)

Classic Elite Yarns Fire�y; 4-ply; (pages 75, 79)

Knit Picks Galileo (Crafts Americana); 2-ply; (pages 78, 85)

Lizbeth Size 10 thread (Handy Hands); 3-ply; (pages 36, 37, 38, 39)

Lizbeth Size 20 thread (Handy Hands); 3-ply; (pages 19, 28)

095_CRSU13_Sources1.indd 95 5/9/13 4:57 PM


back page

Marcy Smith

empowering crochet awesomeness

A REEF GROWS IN DENVER

Learn more on .comCROCHET by Linda PermannPHOTO by Jon Rose (www.jonrosephotography.com)

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http://www.crochetme.com/blogs/inside_interweave_crochet/archive/2013/05/31/back-page-summer-2013-a-reef-grows-in-denver.aspx

http://www.jonrosephotography.com

TV

The new Knitting Daily TV Series 1000 is available on a 4-disc set, which includes 2 never-aired in-depth tutorials with host Eunny Jang.

Visit

KnittingDailyTV.comto order DVDs, download episodes, and enjoy free tips, techniques, and patterns seen on the show.

Join editor of Interweave Knits magazine and host of Knitting Daily TV Eunny Jang on the 10th season of the how-to television program for fiber enthusiasts.

Learn knitting and crochet tips and techniques, dive into the knitting lab to take an in-depth look at yarns, and knit along with Kristin Omdahl to create the Wheeled Lace Shawl and Agua Rios Vest on this new season of Knitting Daily TV.

Knitting Daily TV is a Public Television program geared towards improving your knit and crochet skills while creating one-of-a-kind pieces. You’ll meet trendsetter designers, understand yarn and fiber, and see step-by-step instructions for a variety of knit and crochet techniques.

Series 1000is here!TV

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Documents

CRSU13