Newsletter of the Halton Master Gardeners

Cross Pollination

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March

2021

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Read – The Living Landscape: Designing for

Beauty and Biodiversity in the Home Garden

General Pruning - Use clean, sharp tools. Remove dead, damaged, diseased

wood. Cut back branches to just above another branch or a bud. Do NOT prune

spring flowering shrubs until after they bloom.

Evergreens – Prune for health, and to shape only if needed. Arbovitae,

junipers and chamaecyparis will not form new buds on old wood. How to

prune here. Learn how to prune and remove multiple leaders and encourage

growth of firs, Douglas firs, spruce here!

Hydrangea arborescens – (Smooth Hydrangea or ‘Annabelle’) Prune before

new growth appears. Remove old weak stems, leaving about 1/3 of stems 30

cm long for structure and support. More info here.

Apple, cherry, plum, pear trees – Prune before flower buds swell. Remove any

dead, diseased twigs and prune for open shape. Pear trees generally don’t

require pruning, except for shaping.

Raspberries –prune your summer-bearing raspberries, cutting last year’s

fruiting canes down to about 10 cm. Leave the young canes to bear a crop this

July.

Blueberries – Early March, prune out dead, damaged, diseased wood to an open

shape to increase air circulation. More info here about blueberries.

Houseplants – Increase water and feeding as plants start actively growing.

Amaryllis - After the flowers have faded, cut

the flower stalk to within 1" of the top of the

bulb. Give plants a maximum of sun and

feeding to produce a large healthy bulb &

flowers for next year.

Start seeds indoors for broccoli, Brussels

sprouts, cauliflower etc.

Bird houses– Clean and repair bird houses for

spring nesters

Watch – Grow your own Lemon tree video

Garden Tools – Get ready for spring! See page

7 of this newsletter.

March ‘Garden To Do’ List

This Titan Arum at the Gage Park Tropical

Greenhouse is named “Kramer”. Apparently it’s

quite common to name them. This species

produces the largest inflorescence on Earth.

When the flower is open is smells like rotting

flesh. The flower produces its own heat to help

spread the ‘foul’ odour- up to 35.5C! The

massive underground corm (storage structure)

can weigh 70 to 90 kg and fuels the rapid growth.

“Kramer”

at the Gage Park Tropical Greenhouse

in Hamilton

Photo: Isabel Belanger

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Wildlife in My Garden

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Liza Drozdov –Halton Master

Gardeners

Several years ago I was honoured to

receive a plaque from the Canadian

Wildlife Federation (CWF),

recognizing my garden as a wildlife-

friendly habitat. I’m very proud of

that, and here’s the best part:

anyone can get one, and it’s easy

to do. Go to The Canadian Wildlife

Federation to learn more and as

well, visit the Garden Habitat

Certification Program.

I have frequent visits from foxes,

chipmunks and red squirrels, as well as

the typical grey and black squirrels,

raccoons, skunks and possums. Also, my

garden is full of birds: hummingbirds,

orioles, jays, cardinals, wrens,

sparrows–as well as several red tailed

hawks that swoop through, hunting for a

meal.

To make your garden more attractive to wildlife, you

simply need to provide a few things: water, food and

shelter. And, you need to ensure you don’t use any

toxic chemicals that will injure wildlife or the soil. This

will help create a balanced ecosystem of plants, birds,

mammals and insects–as well as organisms in the soil–

that thrive together. The bonus is you get to enjoy the

year-round visits from wildlife, which adds energy and

joy to every garden.

March

2021

Several toads are in residence and though I’d love to see some snakes I haven’t been so

fortunate–yet. Spring usually sees a few frogs in my pond, but they soon disappear after

something gets into the pond at night, overturning plants, and splashing duckweed

everywhere. The frogs vanish one by one and I’ve always blamed the raccoons–the prime

suspect for all pond thefts–until I saw a mink slinking through the garden! A mink! It was

thrilling–even more so because I don’t live in the country. I live on a standard-sized,

modest plot in a very urban and busy area in the GTA.

You should plant a variety of native perennials, shrubs

and trees to provide food and shelter for birds. These will

also support pollinators and insects that need specific

native host plants to survive and successfully reproduce,

but you’ll also increase habitat for migratory birds–many

of which are vulnerable or at risk.

A fox finds a home in Liza’s urban garden

Canadian Wildlife Federation plaque

Cross Pollination

Wildlife in My Garden - Continued

I feed birds year-round, though many people prefer not to feed in summer. If you

plant a variety of shrubs that have seeds and fruit like serviceberry, elder, &

viburnum, birds will happily feast on those. And if you plant perennials like

Rudbeckia and Asclepias spp., you will be providing a buffet for wildlife.

March

2021

3

Ideally you will provide a source of water, especially in the winter. All animals need water

year round and while we may think to feed birds, we often forget their water needs. I have a

pond that I keep open with a small floating heater, as well as a heated birdbath.

Basically, a wildlife garden asks you to do less, not more. Less clean up. Less maintenance.

Less lawn. Don’t cut perennials stems down in autumn. That will allow birds to eat seeds, and

insects to hibernate in dry stems. Also, birds and small mammals will need to gather leaves

and plant fibers to build their nests in spring. If you can’t resist tidying then wait until after

frost to cut everything down and leave the stems on the ground or piled in a hidden corner of

your garden until spring, until after insects have emerged.

Hang on to your leaves and branches–don’t put them out to the curb. Instead, pile them

behind shrubs or behind a shed, to allow insects, amphibians or small mammals to have

shelter, especially over the winter. Since brush and leaves aren’t food waste there’s no worry

your piles will attract vermin, and they won’t be an eyesore if tucked behind plantings.

Some people fear that wildlife gardens will look messy or that they will attract vermin, which

isn’t true. If you walked past my garden I doubt very much you’d dismiss it as ‘messy’. It’s full

of blossom and fragrance, from both native and exotic plants and it’s beautiful. I also have

the benefit of frequent visits from local foxes and chipmunks, as well as dozens of bird

species, butterflies and moths.

Of course I hear a lot about ‘nuisance’ animals, like raccoons, squirrels, rabbits, skunks and

possums. They definitely visit my garden but whether they are in fact a problem is all a

matter of perspective. Nocturnal mammals, like skunks, possums and raccoons, dig through

the garden looking for slugs and beetles. Yes, they can make a mess, but it’s only as big a

deal as you make it. And they are beneficial- despite several recent bad years for Japanese

Beetles, I never saw one in my garden. I have dozens of hosta plants and never have slug

damage because the skunks, birds and chipmunks eat them all!

Visitors to the author’s garden.

By Liza Drozdov

March

2021

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Cross Pollination

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By Liza Drozdov

Sure, squirrels will dig everywhere-either looking for food or burying things

randomly. But since I’ve been providing peanuts they aren’t eating my plants. In

fact, they’re getting fat—which makes them easy prey for my fox friends who

visit. Nature…it does balance out.

My dream is to have the garden full of foliage, fruit and blossom, but also to be

humming with insect and pollinator life. Having all those insects in the garden

encourages other creatures to visit, looking for food. Insects will feed on plants,

and birds and mammals will feed on the insects. And, occasionally a larger

mammal might come hunting. Everything in the garden is interdependent. It’s a

balance, just as everything is on Earth.

Many people think they are pests,

but they are wonderful guests to

have visit your garden. An adult

possum will eat up to 5,000 ticks

a year, and they also eat roaches,

rats, mice and carrion. They are

the garden clean up crew. They

are the only marsupial native to

North America, which has to

count for something! Look at the

poor mama carrying around her

kids–if that doesn’t soften your

heart toward opossums…

Sidebar Possums

Wildlife in My Garden - Continued

Possum Fun Facts

•When they sense danger, possums play dead by flopping down with their

tongue sticking out and mouth agape. They have no control over how long

this will last as it’s triggered by an involuntary reaction due to stress. They

also secrete a smelly substance from their anus to make them smell like a

corpse!

Watch this great possum video!

•They almost never get rabies.

•They slow the spread of Lyme disease by eating

ticks.

•They have impressive memories for remembering

where to find food (better than rats, cats, dogs and

pigs).

•They can recall the smell of toxic substances up to a

year after trying them.

•Females have two vaginal tracts and two uteri, and

males have a forked penis.

•Read more about possums here!

March

2021

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Cross Pollination

As winter ends, we complete our two-part series on our native conifers. Part 1 Dec/Jan

Newsletter reviewed some members of the Pinaceae family. This month in Part 2 we will

examine Thuja, Juniperus and Taxus (cedar, juniper and yew) as well as looking at a near

native Chamaecyparis variety. You will see there are some interesting contradictions in

our common names (in brackets) for these species! This likely relates to confusion

between botanical classifications of Family and Genus. So first a quick review:

The Family Cupresseae (cypress) contains 33 Genera, including Thuja (cedar), Juniperus

(juniper), Chamaecyparis (false cypress) and Cupressus (cypress).We won’t be discussing

the latter as there are no natives or near-natives to our region. Instead, a member of the

Taxaceae family, Taxus (yew) is our last conifer in the series. All set? Let’s go!

Cont’d on next page.

Thuja (cedar)

Leaves: Small scaley leaves covering fan shaped twigs.

Cones: Growing in clumps, they are small green buds (7-12 mm), looking like brown flowers

when open.

Shape: Tends to be pyramidal. Overall slow growing, hence small size is common.

Cultivation: Prefers moist – even swampy - soil. Tolerates some shade. Very salt intolerant.

Native species: Thuja occidentalis (eastern white cedar). Yes, the botanical names suggests

“west” but the common name includes “east”. Maybe that is why this is also called northern

white cedar! Garden centres often stock black cedar, which is Thuja occidentalis ‘Nigra’, a

cultivar. Instead of ‘cedar’, some growers use the term ’arborvitae’. It’s all the same plant.

Everybody confused now?!

Our Native Conifers: Part 2

Pine and Spruce and Fir Oh My!

Juniperus (juniper)

Leaves: Bluish green, needle-like in young branches and scale-like leaves when mature. Prickly

to handle.

Cones: Small round and blue-grey, berry-like appearance. Excellent food source for native birds

and animals.

Shape: Pyramidal, similar shape to cedar.

Cultivation: Tolerates dry conditions, poor soil and salt, but intolerant of shade.

Native species: Juniperus virginiana (eastern red cedar). Yes, it is a juniper, not a cedar!

Thuja occidentalis (L) Juniperus virginiana (R)

Thuja and Juniperus have similar flat scaley leaves, but the Juniperus is prickly to touch. The cones

are also quite different in colour. Photos L-R: USDA Database, & Ontario Tree Atlas: Daniel Tigner, Robert Videki, Paul Wray

Allyn Walsh Halton MG

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Cross Pollination

Our Native Conifers Part 2 cont’d

MG Allyn Walsh Chamaecyparis (false cypress)

Leaves: Small, scale-like

Cones: Small round, brown

Shape: Horizontal short branches in flattened sprays. Narrow conical tree – used as

masts in the past.

Cultivation: Rich acidic soil in very moist to swampy areas. Full sun is best

Native species: None! The closest is Chamaecyparis thyroides, native to the Atlantic

coast, not to our area. It is commonly known as Atlantic cedar and Atlantic white

cypress. Sigh – it’s not a cedar! Other Chamaecyparis specimens are sold extensively in

our area and usually are bred from Asian stock.

Taxus (yew)

Leaves: Single needles, pale green underneath, dark green to yellow-green on top.

Cones: Cup-shaped, berry-like aril exposing a single (toxic to humans!) seed at the top

Shape: Shrub, growing to 2 m.

Cultivation: Shade tolerant understory plant, prefers moist cool soil.

Native species: Taxus canadensis (Canada yew or ground hemlock). Oh dear, it’s not a

hemlock at all, although the needles are of similar flat shape.

Chamaecyparis thyroides needles & cones (R). Thin, fibrous

bark (C). Tall & straight, used for ships’ masts in the past (R)

Photos: Wikipedia media (L), Unknown Author (C,R) is licensed under

CC BY-SA

Canadian yew needles are 1-2 cm long. Note red arils surrounding a single seed. The light green

underside helps differentiate yew from hemlock needles. Note the short shrubby shape. Photos L to R: Pixabay (L), Wikipedia (C), conifers.org (L)

Learn more! These websites have great information and

photos Ontario Tree Atlas

Guelph Arboretum

American Conifer Society

Identifying conifers

Ontario Trees 6

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Newsletter of the Halton Master Gardeners

Cross Pollination

March

2021

Off to a Good Start: getting tools ready for the season

By MG Allyn Walsh

– continued on next page….

At this time of year, we are all dreaming about our gardens: the blooms, the

pollinators, the scents and the sounds. Few of us are visualizing the tools in our

sheds and basement and looking forward to getting them in top shape for the

season. However, for the healthiest garden as well as the most beautiful one

possible, now is the time to take stock of our tools and ensure they are ready

for the hard use they receive.

Shine ‘em up! Well, perhaps that is an exaggeration! Certainly

the shininess is long gone from my secateurs,

spades, and hoes. In an ideal world, we would all

have attended to regular tool cleaning,

particularly when storing them in the fall. In that

case, all the cleaning needed now is a quick wipe

with disinfectant. For those of us who last used

tools in a miserable cold damp fall day, it is

possible that there may be more than a hint of

dried soil and garden debris stuck to the blades.

Get out the hose and a scrub brush (wire ones are

great) and clean them well prior to disinfecting

them.

At the time of writing, disinfectant solutions have become easier to come by, including the

commonly recommended isopropyl alcohol and disinfectant prepared wipes or spray such as

Lysol. The advantage of a 70% alcohol solution is that the solution is stable and doesn’t

corrode metal tools. It can be wiped on with a clean cloth without soaking required.

Household bleach is quite inexpensive and is also commonly recommended. Preparing a

batch of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water is easy and inexpensive (note that this is considerably

stronger than the formula we have been using to disinfect our houses during the COVID

emergency). Unfortunately, bleach can cause corrosion and tools must be well rinsed after a

30-minute soak. Worse, the solution can’t be stored for future use since it degrades rapidly

and must be prepared freshly. It is however VERY effective at eliminating pathogens clinging

to our tools thus avoiding spreading disease from one plant to another.

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Newsletter of the Halton Master Gardeners

Cross Pollination

Off to a Good Start: getting tools ready for the season cont’d

–

Lookin’ sharp! We all have our favourite tools and the hard use we put them to

means that they must be sharpened certainly at the start of every

season and likely more often. Dull blades and badly mended tools

may allow disease entry and damage to both plants and gardener!

The ease of using sharp tools compared to those which have been

allowed to become dull is nothing short of astounding. Many

gardeners are intimidated when it comes to sharpening tools and are

concerned they may do more harm than good to their tool. In fact, it

is quite easy, as many online videos demonstrate. A metal file or

sharpening stone slid along the edges of the blade angled according

to the bevel will quickly sharpen the blade. It is possible to purchase

sharpening tools designed to make this job even easier and there are

usually videos to accompany them. Examples include the AccuSharp

This video shows how easy tool sharpening is: How to sharpen tools

This one demonstrates how to easily restore a pair of garden shears

which are in even worse shape than the pair I inherited from my father.

Maybe I’ll give it a try after all. Restoring garden shears

Maintain, maintain, maintain Make the regular cleaning and disinfecting easy and convenient,

and you are much more likely to do it after each use. The garden

hose is a standby for rinsing tools after using, but also keep a clean

rag and brush near to hand to facilitate thorough cleaning and

prevent rust. A spray bottle of disinfectant will ease a quick wipe

down after each use. A look at the internet demonstrates that

there are diverse opinions about how to keep garden tools oiled. It

is not uncommon to recommend pushing tools in and out of a

bucket of sand with motor oil added to it. The organic gardener

shudders at the thought. Alternatives include using a spray of

cooking oil or application of boiled linseed oil. Silicone spray is also

suggested. Household oil in small amounts can be dropped into the

mechanism of secateurs or shears. Wooden handles can benefit

Further reading

Tool maintenance review from Fine Gardening

Excellent review from U. Wisconsin

March

2021

and Speedy Sharp tools. Generally, shovels, spades and hoes benefit from sharpening

using a hand file. Most of us have appropriate files or whetstone lurking in the workshop

already.

from beeswax or linseed oil. When tool parts start becoming lose, tighten them before damage

occurs, either to the tool – or to the user. Finally, store tools safely and appropriately. They

should be put away clean and dry, to prevent rusting and hung up to avoid damage.

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Newsletter of the Halton Master Gardeners

Cross Pollination

March

2021

NATIVE BEES OF ONTARIO - Eastern Carpenter Bee, Xylocopa virginica

by Halton MG, Hariette Henry

– continued on next page….

Native carpenter bees are so named because

fertilized females bore into wood, excavating

tunnels in which to lay eggs. Carpenter bees

resemble bumble bees as they are similar in

size and have a similar heavy appearance.

Their main difference is that carpenter bees

have a shiny hairless abdomen and bumble

bees are quite hairy.

The eastern carpenter bee, Xylocopa virginica,

can nest either solitarily or in small groups,

usually with daughters. In southern Ontario,

near the northern edge of the

range of this species, most nests

are social, containing groups of

two to five adult females. Although

social nests are much more

frequent than solitary ones with

this species, they produce no

more brood, so per capita brood

productivity is actually lower for

social females.

Adult carpenter bees overwinter individually and emerge in spring to mate. Soon after, the fertilized females begin their tunnelling and after boring a short distance the bee makes a right turn and continues to tunnel parallel to the wood surface. Inside the tunnel five or six cells are constructed for housing individual eggs. The female bee provisions each cell with pollen and a single egg, sealing each chamber with regurgitated wood pulp. Hatching and maturation occurs over several weeks, with the pollen serving as a food source for developing larvae. Later in the summer the new generation of adult bees emerge and forage on flowers returning to wood in the fall for hibernation.

Eastern carpenter bee, Xylocopa virginica, Donna K Race, bugguide.net

Carpenter bee with shiny abdomen (left), bumblebee (right) Image: M.F.Potter, https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ef611

Carpenter bees prefer un-painted, weathered

wood to excavate, especially softer varieties

like redwood, cedar, cypress and pine.

Painted or pressure-treated wood is much

less susceptible to attack. The perfectly

round, nickel-sized holes that mark the

entrance to their tunnels can be found in

eaves, rafters, fascia boards, siding, wooden

shake roofs, decks and outdoor furniture.

Carpenter bee nests, Image: Colonial Pest Control 9

Cross Pollination

Though not as destructive as termites,

carpenter bees can cause damage especially

when the same pieces of wood are infested

year after year. Holes in the wood surface also

facilitate moisture intrusion, rot and decay. The

best time to control for carpenter bees is before

tunnels are fully constructed in spring.

The carpenter bees' natural predators are badgers, mantises, predatory flies, and some

birds such as shrikes and woodpeckers. Woodpeckers unfortunately add to the damage

caused by carpenter bees by drilling into the wood beside their nests to get at the

larvae.

NATIVE BEES OF ONTARIO - Eastern Carpenter Bee, Xylocopa virginica

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March

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Note complex gallery of cells excavated by carpenter bees Image: US Forest Service

Male eastern carpenter bees have white faces. Like other male bees, they are incapable of

stinging. Image: nature.mo.udc.gov

Keep Calm and Garden On

These insects are important

pollinators of native plants, gardens

and even some crops. Males have no

stingers and females only sting when

really provoked. Consider deterrents

before taking more extreme

measures.

(see next page for details.)

Image: Gardening Humour FB Group

10

The following are a few preventive

measures that homeowners can

take to make their homes less

attractive as nesting sites:

• Ongoing maintenance including

painting or varnishing exposed

wood surfaces should afford

some protection

• Filling cracks, nail holes and

splinters in wooden surfaces is

recommended as existing

damage provides an appealing

place to start a nest

• Decoy wasp nests are available

for purchase or you can make

your own, as carpenter bees will

avoid nesting near wasps (So

the theory goes…I couldn’t find

any evidence that they work)

NATIVE BEES OF ONTARIO - Eastern Carpenter Bee, Xylocopa virginica

Cross Pollination

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March

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You can also establish a place for carpenter bees to nest (other than your home) by drilling some holes into (but not

all the way through) a block of wood or a log. Image: forestparkforever.org

Additional Reading • Conservation Halton, Help Native Bees • Seeds of Diversity, Pollinator profile • Wild Pollinator Partners, An Introduction to our Native Bees

• Bee hotels are usually provided as nesting sites for mason bees however these

structures may provide alternate sites for female carpenter bees looking to nest

• Citrus oils, a repellent that can be purchased at local retailers may deter them as

they don’t like the smell, but re-application is necessary on a regular basis

• Beware of bee & wasp traps: In 2017 Loblaw's pulled a wasp trap from its

shelves after a homeowner complained and posted photos on social media that

showed the product also trapped small birds.

BEES

PREPARING

FOR THE

MURDER

HORNETS

“What’s Growing On”

Cross Pollination

“What’s Growing On” featuring Halton Master Gardeners

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Don’t forget! We are still answering your

garden questions!

Contact us at HaltonMasterGardeners@Gmail.com

And we have lots more information on our

website at haltonmastergardeners.com

Halton Master Gardener Meetings continue to be held virtually until further

notice. We are still accepting new members! Our next meeting will be

Wednesday, March 3rd. Interested? Email us!

We are still answering your garden questions, so send us an email! It’s what we

do best! HaltonMasterGardeners@Gmail.com

SEEDY SATURDAY EVENTS

MILTON & DISTRICT HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY SEEDY

SATURDAY

MARCH 27, 2021

•Free Registration

Haldimand Horticultural Society

• Online: seedysaturdayhaldimand.com

• Saturday, March 20, 2021 at 9 AM EDT

• Price: Free

Gardening Events are Virtually Everywhere!

March

2021

• A Virtual Wildflower Walk with Alonso Abugattas

• Grow Native Master Class: Native Alternatives with James

Faupel

• No Dig Potatoes from seed to harvest with Charles Dowding

• Garden Invader - Periwinkle

Streaming Videos for You!