Crochet Tunisian Primer

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I N T E R W E A V E

Tunisian crochet is making a comeback and Interweave Crochet is on the front edge of developing Tunisian crochet patterns. The Sunset Ruana, from the cover of the Winter 2009 issue, exempli-fies the beauty that can be made with Tunisian crochet. This project is created with Tunisian crochet worked in short linked squares and can be worked with a regular crochet hook rather than a long Tunisian hook. To help you along, we’ve included instructions for Tunisian crochet. Dive in and learn this fun and easy crochet technique.

Welcome to a whole new world of crochet!

Guide to Tunisian Crochet


Tunisian Simple Stitch

Like regular crochet, every project worked in Tunisian crochet begins with a foundation chain from which a row of stitches is picked up and held along the shank of the hook/needle. To work a practice swatch, make a chain of twenty stitches. Then work the first row as follows:

Insert the hook through the top loop of the second chain from the hook (Figure 1), yarn over and draw a loop through (2 stitches on hook). *Insert the hook into the top loop of the next chain stitch and draw a loop through, leaving it on the needle. Repeat from *, drawing one loop through each chain stitch. When you reach the end of the chain, you should have twenty loops on your needle—one for each chain stitch.

Yarn over the hook and draw a loop through the first loop on the hook (Figure 2). This single stitch is the equivalent of one turning chain; it brings the hook up to the level of the next row. *Yarn over and bring the hook through

stitches (Figure 3). Repeat from * to end of row. As you work from left to right, you’ll bind off a stitch each time you draw a loop through the two loops on the hook. You will end with one loop on the needle—this loop counts as the first stitch of the next row.

*Bring the hook from right to left under the first vertical bar created by the first two rows (Figure 4) and draw a loop through (Figure 5), leaving it on the hook. Rep from * to end of row, drawing up a loop from under the last vertical strand.

Work a forward row followed by a reverse row for Tuni-sian simple stitch. After a few rows, look closely at the fabric you’ve made. You’ll see a series of short stacked vertical lines, separated by what looks like sideways v’s or chain stitches.

Tunisian Crochet PrimerKathleen Power Johnson

Figure 1

Figure 2 Figure 3

Figure 4

Figure 5

Tunisian crochet, also called afghan stitch, is cousin to both knitting and crochet. As you might expect—given the family connections—the tool used for Tunisian crochet resembles both a

crochet hook and a knitting needle. The afghan hook, as it’s generally called, is a knitting needle with a crochet hook on one end.

Every “row” of the basic Tunisian stitch is made by working two rows: the first row (worked from right to left and called the forward row) creates a series of stitches on the hook/needle, the second row (worked from left to right and called the reverse row) binds off the stitches until only one stitch remains. The right side of the fabric is always facing you and the right and wrong sides of the fabric are clearly different.st

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© Interweave LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. 3interweavecrochet.com

Tunisian Purl Stitch

Just like knitting, Tunisian crochet can be worked with “purl” rows for a more textured effect. The yarn is held in front of the work on the first forward row to create hori-zontal bumps. The second row of the sequence, a reverse row, is worked just as for Tunisian simple stitch.

Bring the yarn to the front of your work, holding it below and in front of the hook. *Insert the hook from right to left through the first vertical strand, as in the second pass of the forward row of the simple stitch. Yarn over by bringing the yarn up, behind, and then over the hook from back to front (Figure 6). Draw a loop through, leaving it on the hook. Repeat from *. As you work from one vertical strand to the next, the yarn you’re working with will lie over the vertical strand being worked.

Work as for the reverse row of Tunisian simple stitch as described on page 37.

When you look at the fabric made with Tunisian Purl stitch, you’ll still see the vertical lines made in simple stitch, but this time they will be interrupted by short hori-zontal bumps made from the strand of yarn that crosses over the vertical strands as you work.

Increasing

To increase a stitch at the beginning of a forward row (worked right to left), pick up an extra loop by inserting the hook from front to back under the horizontal strand that lies between the loop on the hook and the first ver-tical strand (Figure 7), then yarn over and pull a loop through. Work as usual in the next vertical strand. To increase at the other end of the row, pull an extra loop by inserting the hook under the last horizontal strand in the row, just before the last vertical strand.

Decreasing

To decrease a stitch, insert the hook under two vertical strands at the same time (Figure 8), yarn over and draw a loop through both strands.

Joining a New Color

When two loops remain at the end of a reverse row (worked left to right), yarn over in the new color (Fig-ure 9) and draw the new color through both loops on the hook (Figure 10). To change color at the end of a forward row, work the ch 1 in the new color.

Figure 6

Figure 7

Figure 10

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Figure 8

edge, when working the last stitch, insert the hook under the last vertical strand and the strand that lies right next to it, then pull a loop through. in, rework them with a smaller or larger hook.

Tunisian Tips



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sUsing Color in Tunisian CrochetBy changing colors at the beginning of the forward or reverse rows, you can create a variety of different color effects. (Remember that one row of Tunisian stitch consists of one forward followed by one reverse row.) Try out the four techniques described below, beginning with swatch 1 at the bottom, and illustrated in the sampler to get you started on your own color experiments.

Swatch #1 Work three rows of Tunisian simple stitch (Tss) using color A. At the end of the last reverse row, when two loops remain on the hook, change colors by pulling through color B. Work one row in color B. Change back to color A and work two rows. In other words, work 3 rows A, 1 row B, 2 rows A; then repeat the 3-1-2 sequence beginning with color B.

Swatch #2 Choose three colors. Work the stripes in the same sequence as before, but this time change color before beginning the return row by working the chain at the end of the forward row in the new color.

Swatch #3 Now try working a sequence of one-row stripes, using just two colors and changing colors at the beginning of each return row. This simple pattern of alternate rows of two colors creates a tweedy pattern. For subtle coloration, work the pattern in colors that are closely related. For a more vibrant effect, work it in colors with a strong contrast.

Swatch #4 With color A, work several rows in Tss. Change to color B for the beginning of the next for-ward row and work the entire row in Tunisian purl stitch (Tps). In this case, the horizontal bar of the purl stitch lies across the vertical thread in the contrasting color of the previous row. Alternate rows of colors for a woven or shadow effect. S

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KATHLEEN POWER JOHNSON lives in Sarasota, Florida,

and teaches crochet (and knitting) workshops around the

country.

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interweavecrochet.com

NotesGauge can be measured on an

ordinary Tunisian simple st (tss) swatch at least 4" (10 cm) square.

Use larger hook only for beg ch.Project is worked with RS facing at

all times.Tss FwP and RetP count as 1 row.Tss RetP is worked differently in this

project than usual Tunisian projects (see Stitch Guide).

When picking up lps in bind-off (BO) row, insert hook through both lps of BO ch, not vertical bars of row below BO row.

When working FwP on rows after base triangles, last st is worked through both lps of selvedge edge ch for better drape, smooth WS surface, and quilted look.

Adjust length by adding or subtract-ing tiers, making same number of tiers for front and back and ending with tier 2 before final tier triangles.

To cont color flow from back to front panels, work a tier of right front followed by same tier of left front.

Stitch Guide

Tunisian simple stitch (tss) forward pass (FwP): behind front vertical bar, yo and pull up lp, leave lp on hook; rep from * across.Tss return pass (RetP): *Yo and draw through 2 lps on hook; rep from * across.Make 1 inc (M1):

pull up lp.Bind off (BO): vertical bar, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through both lps on hook; rep from * across.

Back

With larger hook Ch 80 loosely.Tier 1 (13 base triangles):

SHARON FALKNER’S GORGEOUS CROCHETED ENTRELAC RUANA uses a fascinating, yet surprisingly simple Tunisian technique. The plush, self-shading yarn does most of the heavy lifting, creating separate diamonds of color in a harlequin effect. Worked with a slightly larger hook than normal, this Tunisian entrelac, usually quite dense, has terrific drape to make this your go-to winter outerwear.

G E T T I N G S T A R T E D

Back is 48" wide and 43" long; front panels are 221⁄2" wide and 43" long each after blocking not including border.YARNsuperwash merino; 175 yd [160 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]; distributed by Universal Yarns.HOOKTunisian or standard hook without thumb grip. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Yarn needle; rustproof pins;

GAUGE One entrelac square or 6 sts and 6 rows = 21⁄4" in tss.

SUNSET RUANA S H A R O N F A L K N E R

Row 1: With smaller hook, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook (next ch for succes-sive triangles), pull up lp (2 lps on hook); RetP (see Stitch Guide).Row 2: M1 (see Stitch Guide) bet sts from last row, tss in next vertical bar; insert hook in next ch and pull up lp (4 lps); RetP.Row 3: Tss in next 2 vertical bars, M1 bet last vertical bar and selvedge edge of last row; insert hook in next ch and pull up lp (5 lps); RetP.Row 4: Tss in next 3 vertical bars, M1 bet last vertical bar and selvedge edge of last row, insert hook in next ch and pull up lp (6 lps); RetP.Row 5: Tss in next 4 vertical bars, M1 bet last vertical bar and selvedge edge of last row, insert hook in next ch and pull up lp (7 lps); RetP.Row 6: Tss in next 5 vertical bars, M1 bet last vertical bar and selvedge edge of last row, insert hook in next ch and pull up lp (8 lps); RetP.

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left front right front

back

X beg here

tier 27

left front here

tier 26

tier 3tier 2tier 1

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Row 7: BO (see Stitch Guide) 6 sts; sl st in same ch as last st from last row—1 triangle completed.Rep Rows 1–7 across—13 triangles. For last triangle, sl st in last free ch. Fasten off.Tier 2 (1 right-edge triangle, 12

squares, 1 left-edge triangle): Join yarn in bottom corner of first base triangle made (or in last edge st of previous right-side triangle for successive tiers). Right-edge triangle:

Row 1: Ch 2, pull up lp in 2nd ch from hook and in same st as join or in edge of first row of last tier for successive tiers (3 lps); RetP.Row 2: M1, tss in next vertical bar and in edge of 2nd row of last tier (4 lps); RetP.Row 3: M1, tss in next 2 vertical bars and in edge of 3rd row of last tier (5 lps); RetP.Row 4: M1, tss in next 3 vertical bars and in edge of 4th row of last tier (6 lps); RetP.Row 5: M1, tss in next 4 vertical bars and in edge of 5th row of last tier (7 lps); RetP.Row 6: M1, tss in next 5 vertical bars and in edge of 6th row of last tier (8 lps); RetP.Row 7: BO 6 sts, sl st in next st from last tier.Square:

Row 1: Tss across next 6 sts (see notes for picking up lps on BO edge) and in next st of last tier (8 lps); RetP.Rows 2–6: Tss to end and in next side st; RetP.Row 7: BO 6 sts, sl st in next st from last tier.Rep Rows 1–7 of square 11 times. Left-

edge triangle:

Row 1: Tss in next 6 sts and in last st of base triangle or last st of previous left-edge triangle for successive tiers (8 lps); RetP.Row 2: Tss across (7 lps); RetP.Row 3: Tss across (6 lps); RetP.Row 4: Tss across (5 lps); RetP.Row 5: Tss across (4 lps); RetP.Row 6: Tss across (3 lps); RetP.Row 7: BO 1 st. Fasten off.Tier 3 (13 squares): Join yarn in first st of last tier and work 13 squares as for Tier 2.Tiers 4–24: Rep Tiers 2–3 ten times,

then work Tier 2 one more time.Neck: Tier 25: Work 6 squares, 1 final tier triangle (see below), 6 squares. Note: Middle square is replaced with a final tier triangle to form the neck opening.Right front: Tiers 26–49: Rep Tiers 2–3 eleven times, then work Tier 2 one more time. Note: Tier 2 is made up of a right-edge triangle, 5 squares, and a left-edge triangle. Tier 3 is made up of 6 squares. Final tier triangles: Join in first st of last tier.Row 1: Tss in next 6 sts and in edge of next st of last tier (8 lps); RetP.Row 2: Sk next vertical bar, tss in next 5 vertical bars and in edge of next st of last tier (7 lps); RetP.Row 3: Sk next vertical bar, tss in next 4 vertical bars and in edge of next st of last tier (6 lps); RetP.Row 4: Sk next vertical bar, tss in next 3 vertical bars and in edge of next st of last tier (5 lps); RetP.Row 5: Sk next vertical bar, tss in next 2 vertical bars and in edge of next st of last tier (4 lps); RetP.Row 6: Sk next vertical bar, tss in next vertical bar and in edge of next st of last tier (3 lps); RetP.Row 7: Sk next vertical bar, sl st in next st of last tier—1 triangle completed.Rep Rows 1–7 across—6 triangles. Fasten off.Left front: Work as for right front beg Tier 26 at left edge of Tier 25’s center triangle.

Finishing

Block flat. With RS facing, join yarn in any corner, ch 1, sc in same st and in each st or edge of each entrelac row across. For outside corners, work 1 sc before corner, ch 2, 1 sc in next st or entrelac row after corner. For neck, sl st in first st of neck triangle, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st, sc in side of next edge triangle. Fasten off and weave in loose ends.

SHARON FALKNER’S great-aunt taught her to

crochet nearly thirty years ago, but she has re-

ally rekindled her love for the craft only in the

last two years. Now she enjoys the challenge of

trying new techniques (including knitting and

spinning), designing original works, and con-

verting knitted patterns to crochet. That is, of

course, when her three young children allow it.

See more at sharescraftycorner.blogspot.com.

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Crochet Tunisian Primer