Courses HECOL 170 Fall 2013

Department of Human Ecology Faculty of Agricultural, Life and Environmental Sciences

Room 302 Human Ecology Building www.hecol.ualberta.ca Tel: 780.492.3824 Edmonton, Alberta, Canada T6G 2N1 [email protected] Fax: 780.492.4821

Course outline HECOL 170 September, 2013 1

Human Ecology 170 Introduction to Textiles

Course Syllabus

Fall, 2013

An introductory exploration of the origin, creation and use of textiles in our world. Chemical and physical properties of fibres and fabrics are introduced and an understanding of how these

properties influence various clothing and textile end uses is developed.

DAYS & TIMES: Tuesdays and Thursdays 11.00 am – 12.20 pm Location: Edmonton Clinic Health Academy (ECHA) 2-420 PROFESSOR: TEACHING ASSISTANT: Dr. Rachel McQueen Nicole Furtak 335 Human Ecology Bldg Email: [email protected] Tel: 780 492 2045 Email: [email protected] Office hours: Tuesdays 2.00-3.00 pm


Table of Contents

Course objectives 3 Required reading 3 Additional course fees 3 Assignments and grading 3 Writing support 5 Code of student behaviour (plagiarism and cheating) 5 Policy regarding late assignments 5 Specialized Support and Disability Services 6 Description of assignments 6 Class schedule and readings 10 Appendix: Marking rubrics (hard copy only) 12


Course objectives: Upon completion of this course you will be able to:

• Explain what constitutes the three textile performance concepts (durability, comfort, appearance).

• Describe how fibre chemical and physical structure influences fibre properties. • Describe how textile fibres are classified and labelled. • Recognise basic fabric structures. • Relate fibre, yarn and fabric properties to textile performance. • Discuss how textile properties influence textile performance concepts. • Identify ways in which textiles can influence our health, comfort and environment.

Required reading: Required textbook:

Collier, B. J., Bide, M., & Tortora, P. G. (2009). Understanding Textiles (7th ed.). Upper Saddle River, New Jersey: Pearson Prentice Hall.

Additional course fees

A $5.00 supplementary incidental fee is levied for HECOL 170 according to section 22.2.3 (page 70) of the University of Alberta Calendar. This fee is to be paid to the instructor in class. This fee covers the cost of fabric samples which will be handed out throughout the term. Please make out cheques to the University of Alberta.

Assignments & grading:

Assignment Due date Percent

In class participation

Ad hoc

10%

Assignments (best out of two) 20%

Assignment 1 Oct 15 Assignment 2 Nov 14

Exams Mid-term exam Oct 24 30%

Final exam Dec 10 (9:00) 40%

100%

Assignments are described on pages 6-9 of this course outline. Written assignments must be typed (12-point Times New Roman font, double-spaced, 3 cm side margins) and professional in presentation (an exception to this is for Assignment 1 where you can be more creative with the article if you want). Assignments are due by 4:00 pm on the date indicated. They can be handed in to Dr Rachel McQueen, or the main office in the Human Ecology Building.


Note that the highest grade of the two assignments makes up the 20% of your final grade. It is not mandatory to submit both assignments. Human Ecology students, remember to keep a copy of your assignments as you may wish to include it in your portfolio for HECOL 408 in your final year. Examinations are a combination of multiple choice and short answer questions. They cover material from readings and lectures. During exams, all electronic devices must be turned off and students will NOT be excused from the exam room once the exam has started. Grading: Evaluation of exams and assignments is expressed in raw marks throughout the term. A final cumulative score out of 100 points is translated into a letter grade based on the university four-point grading system (see below). Assignment of final grades is based on a combination of absolute achievement and relative performance in this course (marking rubrics attached in the Appendix (hard copy only)). Excellent: A+ 4.0 Outstanding: The student has demonstrated an extraordinary grasp

of the course content and performance reflects creativity and innovation, in addition to a high level of analytical ability.

A 4.0 Excellent: The student has demonstrated superior understanding of the course content and a high level of analytical ability.

A-‐‑ 3.7 The student has demonstrated superior understanding of the course content, but has not shown the same level of analytical ability as students receiving an A.

Good: B+ 3.3 The student has demonstrated a sound understanding of course material, with superior understanding being evident in some topics.

B 3.0 The student has demonstrated a uniformly sound understanding of course material.

B-‐‑ 2.7 The student has demonstrated a generally sound understanding of course material, but there are some areas in which depth of understanding is limited.

Satisfactory:

C+ 2.3 The student has demonstrated adequate awareness of course content with sound understanding of some topics.

C 2.0 The student has demonstrated adequate awareness of all of the central dimensions of the course.

C-‐‑ 1.7 The student has demonstrated adequate awareness of most central dimensions of the course, but lacks knowledge of one or two topics.

Poor D+ 1.3 The student has demonstrated a lack of knowledge in one or more of the central dimensions of the course, and has very superficial understanding of most topics.

Minimal Pass D 1.0 The student’s performance is only minimally acceptable due to a lack of understanding of several central dimensions of course content.

Fail F F(R)*

0.0 The student has demonstrated a lack of knowledge of most of the course content.

*F(R) denotes eligibility of a student to apply for a re-‐‑examination in a course


Writing support Writing services The Centre for Writers offers free one-on-one writing coaching for students and university staff. You can make an appointment with a tutor online: http://www.c4w.arts.ualberta.ca/ University Student Success Centre offers workshops or individual study assistance which may help in assignment writing. http://www.uofaweb.ualberta.ca/academicsupport/index.cfm The below link to a document from the Writing Center at the University of Wisconsin-Madison provides very helpful information on how to effectively paraphrase (and avoid plagiarising): http://writing.wisc.edu/Handbook/Acknowledging_Sources.pdf Library If you would like to arrange a library instruction you can contact Angie Mandeville who is the Liaison Librarian for Human Ecology at: [email protected] Human Ecology databases can be found at this following library link: http://guides.library.ualberta.ca/clothing_textiles_design Code of student behaviour All students at the University of Alberta are subject to the Code of Student Behaviour (available online: http://www.governance.ualberta.ca/en/CodesofConductandResidenceCommunityStandards/CodeofStudentBehaviour.aspx). Please familiarize yourself with it and ensure you do not participate in any inappropriate behaviour defined by the Code. The following statements are particularly important: 30.3.2(1) Plagiarism. No Student shall submit the words, ideas, images or data of another person as the student’s own in any academic writing, essay, thesis, project, assignment, presentation or poster in a course or program of study. 30.3.2 (2)a Cheating. No Student shall, in the course of an examination or other similar activity, obtain or attempt to obtain information from another Student or other unauthorized source, give or attempt to give information to another Student, or use, attempt to use, or possess for the purposes of use, any unauthorized material. 30.3.2(2)c Cheating. No Student shall represent another’s substantial editorial or compositional assistance on an assignment as the student’s own work. Policy regarding late assignments Assignments are to be handed in on (or before) the date they are due. EXTENSIONS WILL NOT BE GRANTED except in the case of illness or other extreme circumstances. Without an extension being granted, students who submit assignments after 4.00 pm (or specified time if later) on the due date will be penalized 25% for each day (24 hours) that the assignment is late. Assignments submitted more than three days late will receive a raw score of “0.”


Specialized Support and Disability Services (SSDS) Students who require specialized support in this course due to disability affecting mobility, vision, hearing, learning, or mental or physical health are advised to inform the instructor and to discuss their needs with Specialized Support and Disability Services, 2-800 Students’ Union Building, 780-492-3381 (phone) or 780-492-7269 (TTY). Description of assignments In-class participation (Ongoing throughout term) Throughout the term you will be asked to contribute in class through small writing assignments (mini-assignments). These will occur sporadically and may be related to content from the lecture or a reading you were asked to do from your textbook or handout. Each mini-assignment will be marked from 0-1. If you were not present in class you will get 0 for that particular mini-assignment. If you make an effort to respond appropriately to the assigned question you will receive a full mark for that particular assignment. Therefore, if you attend class and are prepared for class (i.e., doing the required readings) you will easily do well in this portion of the grading. The grades from these mini-assignments will accumulate to make up the 10% of your total grade. Full marks on this section can be achieved by being present in class and participating fully for at least 80% of the mini-assignments. Grades for mini-assignments will be posted and updated on eClass once a month. Due to the size of the class and the small weighting of individual mini-assignments all the mini-assignments will be returned only at the end of the course. Assignment 1: Properties of natural fibres (Due October 15) (2-3 pages) Topic/description Natural fibres are composed of either cellulose (from plants) or protein (from animals). The four most common or widely known natural fibres are cotton, flax, wool and silk. Clothing made from natural fibres are often considered to be more absorbent and therefore “breathe” more than clothing made from synthetic fibres such as polyester or nylon. But some people may prefer synthetic fibres because they can be cheaper, are often more durable and easier to care for than natural fibres (e.g., no ironing required!). Many people may know that cotton comes from a plant and wool comes from a sheep but there is a lot that most people don’t know about natural fibres. They may not know, for example, how different natural fibres can be from one another in chemical and physical structure and how these structures can influence the properties of the clothing they buy in a store. One of your jobs as a professional is to help consumers by making complex scientific knowledge easy to understand. This assignment will give you a chance to do that. Purpose The purpose of this assignment is to effectively describe the chemical and physical structure of one cellulosic fibre and one protein fibre and discuss how the structures relate to 2-3 properties which could influence the performance of a particular textile made from each of these fibres.


Select one protein fibre (wool or silk) and one cellulosic fibre (cotton or flax) to describe in this assignment. For each fibre choose an article of clothing or another type of textile product which would typically be made from these fibres to help illustrate the characteristics of textile items. Choose one of the two options (poster or article) below to effectively communicate information about natural fibres. Include a title and brief introduction. This assignment should be written as if for a “consumer" who does not have any background knowledge about textiles. Assume that this person has taken chemistry at high school so has an understanding of some molecular formulas and other basic aspects of chemistry (therefore drawing the chemical structure of each fibre is okay). Option 1 Imagine yourself doing an information session at a professional meeting or at a trade-show booth. Graphically display your assignment as a poster. Include enough written information to appropriately describe the differences in fibres and properties. The maximum size of the poster should be A2 (420 mm x 594 mm) – smaller sizes are allowable but ensure that the images and all the writing can be easily read. Option 2 Write an article intended for a trade or consumer magazine or newspaper which explains the differences between the fibres you have chosen to discuss. This article should be 2-3 pages in length, typed in Times New Roman (or equivalent) 12pt font and doubled spaced. Graphic images for chemical formula and structure are allowed. If you would prefer to present this assignment using another type of font you can, however, check that the page limit matches the Times New Roman 12pt font to ensure you have the appropriate length (without images). Due date & grading Due October 15. This project is potentially worth 20% of your final grade if this is the best one out of two assignments. For grading criteria see Appendix. Assignment 2: Evaluation of technical information in textile marketing (Due November 14) (2-3 pages) + 1 extra page as Appendix for inclusion of the brochure. Topic/description The clothing and textiles industry is a huge global industry and there are many companies across the world competing to produce the most sellable products to their customers. Some companies are competitive because they can produce items at an extremely low price. Whereas, other companies may create a niche product where they produce clothing or other textile items which have some or many special properties. These companies compete on their technical edge or some inherent property which may not be possible in their competitor’s products. In most cases the technology they use or create is proprietary so the information or processes by which they are produced or created cannot be accessed by the public. Often these specialty or performance textile items will have a certain amount of technical information available for marketing


purposes. This information could be based on the fabric structure, the fibre type or fibre structure, and/or special finishes which enhance performance. Not all information provided by manufacturers is easy to understand or technically accurate! Purpose The purpose of this assignment is to test your ability to critically evaluate technical information about a textile product which has been marketed under a particular registered tradename. The information you evaluate must be supplied by the manufacturer of the product. Focus only on a product where the fibre, fabric or finishes applied to the fabric are responsible for the special properties. Do NOT use a product where its unique properties are due to special product/garment design (e.g., zips underneath the arms for cooling) or construction techniques (e.g., sealing of seams).

1. Identify the important properties (max 3) that the marketers of the product claim the product possesses (use the marketer’s terminology here include quotation marks where necessary).

2. For each term or property from 1 above explain what the marketer means by the term (for example, breathable could mean the transfer of water vapour through the fabric occurs, or transfer of air, or both of these; if only “comfortable” has been stated then what comfort properties does the marketer really mean?).

3. Using the list below to help you, identify what component(s) of the textile give the product its special properties and explain how they influence the performance of the textile product. • Fibre content • Manipulation of fibre structure • Yarn construction • Composite fabric • Other not reported here (describe)

4. Using your textile knowledge and other resources discuss whether the marketing

information provided was accurate or not?

5. Please include the brochure, hang-tag, magazine advertisement or a print out from a website as an Appendix to this assignment. If you have used a website please include the full URL so I can view the site.

Getting started The following websites have examples of the types of products and technical information that could be used to complete this assignment. You may use one of these websites to complete this assignment if you wish or you could find another product and related technical information. SmartWool: https://www.smartwool.com/default.cfm#/WhySmartwool/


Invista products: http://www.invista.com/en/apparel-products/index.html (e.g., Coolmax®, Thermolite®, Lycra®) Dri-release® http://www.dri-release.com/hiw_un_introduction.html Formatting This assignment is to be 2-3 pages in length (excluding brochure or copy of web-pages as the appendix). Use 12-point Times New Roman font, double-spaced, 3 cm side margins. Due date & grading Due November 14. This project is potentially worth 20% of your final grade if this is the best one out of two assignments. For grading criteria see Appendix.


Class schedule and readings:

Date Topic Readings & Assignments

1 Sept 5 Course introduction

UNIT 1 – TEXTILE CONCEPTS

2 Sept 10 Performance concepts related to textiles

UNIT 2 – FIBRES

3 Sept 12 Fibres – the fundamentals – introduction to basic fibre chemistry

Textbook pp. 20-24

4 Sept 17 Fibres – the fundamentals – introduction to basic fibre chemistry and fibre fine structure

pp. 33-35

Fibre classification & labelling pp. 15-20

5 Sept 19 Fibres – properties of fibres (physical and mechanical) pp. 39-48

6 Sept 24 Fibres – properties of fibres (chemical) pp. 48-57

7 Sept 26 Cellulosic fibres pp. 59-71

8 Oct 1 Cellulosic fibres (cont.) pp. 75-84

9 Oct 3 Protein fibres pp. 89-91, 96-111

10 Oct 8 Protein fibres (cont.) pp. 111-120

11 Oct 10 Manufactured fibres

Regenerated cellulosic fibres

pp. 24-35

pp. 126, 129-138

12 Oct 15 Nylon, aramid & polyester pp. 147-159

pp. 161-173 Assignment 1 due

13 Oct 17 Mock exam & exam preparation Mock exam (30 mins)

14 Oct 22 Other synthetic fibres pp. 177-182, 187-193, 197-203, 208-209

15 Oct 24 Mid-term exam 2 (covering lectures 2-14) Mid-term exam (30%)


UNIT 3 – YARNS & FABRICS

16 Oct 29 Yarns pp. 223-233

17 Oct 31 Yarns (cont.) Fabrics structure (weaves)

pp. 265-267, 268-270 pp. 273-280, 291-301

18 Nov 5 Fabric structure (weaves cont.) Knits

pp. 321-322, 326-330, 337

19 Nov 7 Fabric structure (non-woven fabrics & performance)

pp. 313-319, 342-345, 359-361

Nov 12 No Lecture

20 Nov 14 Fabric structure (performance cont.) pp. 534-535

Assignment 2 due

21 Nov 19 Product performance

UNIT 4 – CLOTHING & TEXTILES IN & AS OUR ENVIRONMENT

22 Nov 21 Environmental issues pp. 501-512

23 Nov 26 Environmental issues pp. 512-519

24 Nov 28 Textiles, health and protection

25 Dec 3 Textiles, health and protection

Dec 10 Final exam 9.00 am topics covered (Lectures 16-25)

Final Exam (40%)

Note: The above course schedule may be altered at the discretion of the instructor. Any changes will be announced in advance for your convenience


Appendix

Marking rubrics for assignments (Hard copy only)

Student name:________________________________

Assignment 1. Natural fibres – article or poster

Evaluation criteria

Due date: October 15, 2013

1. An appropriate short introductory paragraph is included

____/10

2. Has accurately addressed all aspects of the assignment question (e.g., selected two fibres, one either cotton or linen and the second either wool or silk, has discussed only 2-3 properties for each fibre)

____/10

3. Accurately describes the relevant features of the chemical and physical structure of each textile fibre as it affects the important properties that are being addressed in the article/poster.

____/30

4. Has identified textile properties for each fibre type and discussed/ presented them well.

____/10

5. A suitable garment/textile product has been selected to demonstrate the selected properties for each fibre type.

____/10

6. The article/poster is well organized and structured. Ideas and details flow logically throughout.

____/10

7. Few or no errors in punctuation, capitalization, grammar and spelling.

____/10

8. Writing and graphics in the article/poster are aesthetically pleasing and clearly legible, they are presented professionally (it does not matter whether the student has taken a creative approach or a simple approach to presenting the article/poster, there are still many visual elements such as appropriate font style and size, use of colour, spacing between words/lines/objects which are important).

____/10

Total Score

_____/100

Comments:

Student name:________________________________

Assignment 2. Evaluation of technical information in textile marketing

Evaluation criteria

Due date: November 14, 2013

1. The question has been understood and all aspects of the assignment question have been addressed (e.g., no more than 3 marketing properties identified, an explanation of what the marketer means has been provided in textile science terminology)

____/10

2. Accurately identifies the important properties which the textile product is said to have and accurately describes these using appropriate textile science terminology

____/15

3. Accurately identifies what component of the textile gives rise to the special properties that the textile product is said to have

____/15

4. Discusses the accuracy of the claims made by the textile product marketer and applies textile science knowledge gained from the course/textbook (and other sources if necessary) to dispute or agree with these claims. Shows an appropriate level of critical thought in approaching this part of the assignment.

____/30

5. A well organized assignment where the ideas are well structured and flow logically. An effective introduction and conclusion is included.

____/10

6. Few or no errors in punctuation, capitalization, grammar and spelling.

____/10

7. Assignment is presented well and professional. It is aesthetically pleasing and clearly legible.

____/10

Total Score

_____/100

Comments:

Documents

Courses HECOL 170 Fall 2013