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7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)
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CO SMETIC A ND TOIL ETRY
FORMULATI NS
Second dition
Volume 4
bY
Ernest
W.
Fl ick
NOYES PUBLICATIONS
7/26/2019 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4 (2nd Edition)
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Copyright by Ernest
W.
Flick
No part of
this
book may be reproduced r utilized in
any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording or by any informa-
tion storage and retrieval system, without permission
in writing from the Publisher.
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 89-39099
Printed in
the
United States
ISBN: 0-8155-1383-6 v. 4)
Published in the United States of America by
Noyes Publications
ill Road, Park Ridge, New Jersey 07656
1 9 8
7
6 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
(Revised for vol 4)
Flick,
Ernest,
W
Cosmetic and toiletry formulations.
1.Cosmetics. 2. Toilet preparations.
I
Title.
TP983.F55 1989 668 .55 89-39099
ISBN 0-8155-1218-X
v.
1
ISBN 0-8155-1306-2 (v. 2)
ISBN 0-8155-1367-4 (v. 3)
ISBN 0-8155-1383-6 v. 4)
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Con tents and Sub ject Ind ex
SECTION I: ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS 1
Alum inum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick 2
Alum inum Chlorohydrate Antiper 2
Antiperspirant
3
Aerosol Antiperspirant 3
Antiperspirant Cream
O i W a t e r Antiperspirant Cream
Antiperspirant Roll-On
5
Roll-On Antiperspirant
5
Antiperspirant Stick 6
Oil-in-Water Antiperspirant Lotion 6
Antiperspirant Lotion 6
Deodorant 7
Deodorant Stick 7
Dry Antiperspirant Stick 8
Quick Drying Roll-On Antiperspirant 8
Dry Roll-On Antiperspirant 9
Talc Spray Antiperspirant 9
General Purpose Stick Formulation-1 10
General Purpose Stick Formulation-2 10
Stick Antiperspirant 10
Roll-On Antiperspirant
11
Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion 12
Clear Roll-On A.P. Lotion 12
Spray Powder Antiperspirant 13
Deodorant Stick
13
Stick Formulation 14
SECTION : BABY PRODUCTS
15
Baby Bath
16
Baby Lotion Mousse 17
Baby Oil 17
Baby Shampoo 18
Baby Foam Baths 21
Tear Free Baby Bath 22
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v Contents and Subject Index
Mild Children's Bubble Bath 22
SECTION
III: BATH AND SHOWER PRODUCTS 23
Aerosol Bath Oil 24
Dispersible Bath Oil 24
BathGel 24
Bath Gelee with Natural Lipid Protein 25
Bath Gelee
25
Emollient Bath Gelee
25
Bath Milk 26
Washing Lotion 26
Bath Oil, De Luxe with Plant Oils 27
Foam Bath with Almond Oil 27
Foam Bath Oil 27
Bubble Bath Bath Oil 28
Bubble Bath 28
Clear Gel 29
High Foaming Shower Gel
29
Foam Baths, Clear 30
Foam Baths, Pearlescent 30
Herbal Foam Bath 31
Foam Bath, Transparent 3 1
Mild Shower Gel 32
Shower Bath Gel with Pearl Lustre 33
Clear, Mild
to
the Skin Shower Bath 32
Refreshing Shower Gel 33
Shower Gel 33
Shower Bath for Everyday Use
34
Mild Foam Bath 34
Shower Baths, Clear
35
Shower Baths, Pearlescent 35
Shower Gel Cleanser 36
Bath Crystals 36
Silky Bath Gel 37
Water White Shower Gel 38
Shower Gel 38
SECTION
IV:
BEAUTY
AIDS
39
Aloe Vera
Skin
Freshener 40
Powder Mask Activator 40
BlemisWScar Concealer 4 1
Skin Cleanser with Porous Cellulose Particles 4 1
Body Scrub 42
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Contents and Subject Index ix
Cheek Rouge 43
Concealing Stick 44
Cream Eye Shadow
45
Dry Powder Rouge Base
45
Cream Facial
Scrub 46
Oil-in-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative
46
Cream-to-Powder Eye Shadow with Dry-Floc PC 47
Liquid Talc
47
Creamy Eye Shadow
48
Waterproof Eye Liner
48
Creamy Matte Make Up Base 49
Liquid Make-up
49
Creamy Roll-On Lip Gloss 50
Deep Extra Body Conditioner
51
Emollient Liquid Make-up
5
Emulsion Makeup
53
Water-in-Oil Lotion Makeup 53
Eye Contour Balm
54
Eye Mascara
55
Eyeliner SticWencil 56
Face and Body Milk
57
Lip Care Stick
57
Face-Lotion 58
Skin Tonic Water Without Alcohol
58
Facial Cleanser
59
Sting Free Facial Cleanser
59
Fluid Make-up
60
Compact Make-up
60
Fluid Make Up
61
Regenerating Lipcare-Stick 61
Gelled Aloe Vera with Sunscreen
62
Aloe Vera Jelly
62
Gentle Beauty Wash
63
Hair and Skin Moisturizing Mist
64
Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray
65
Hair Liquid (Soft Type)
65
High Shine Lipstick
66
Lipstick Formulation 66
Lip Balm White
67
Lip Balm 67
Lip Balm
I 67
Lip Gloss (Souffle)
68
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x Contents and Subject Index
New Look Lipstick 69
Lipstick 70
Lip-Gloss
71
Lipstick 72
Lipstick, Glossy 72
Lipstick 73
Lipstick Formulae 74
Liquid Foundation 75
Powder Foundation 75
Liquid Make-up 76
Silky Facial Mask 77
Lotion Scrub 78
Lotion Hand Scrub 78
Low Cost, Extended Wear Lipstick 79
Low Cost Lipstick 80
Lip Balm 80
Makeup Foundation 81
Mascara 82
Eyebrow Pencil, Heat Stable 82
Moisture Stick Base 83
Cream Rouge Formula 83
Pot Eyeshadow
83
Moisturizing Liposomal Gel 84
Skin Tightening Gel 84
Moisturizing Make -up Foundation 85
Skin Cleanser 85
Moisturizing Milk with High Electrolyte Content
86
W/O Hydrating Body Milk 86
Nail Polish Remover 87
Non-Feathering Extended Wear Lipstick 88
Oil/Water Matte Cream Makeup 89
Lip Balm 89
Oil-in-Water Milk Emulsion 90
Oil-in-Water Milk Emulsion 90
One Coat Mascara 91
Overnight Facial Moisturizer 92
Moisturizing M ake -up Foundation 92
O/W
Cleansing Milk 93
W/O Cleansing Milk 93
O/W Cleansing Milk 94
Dry Skin Oil with Alcohol 94
Petroleum OiWetroleum Wax Free Lipstick
95
Pressed Powder Eye Shadow (Pearlescent Type) 96
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Contents and Subject Index xi
Pressed Powder Eyeshadow 97
Cosmetic Aerosol Foam 97
Pressed Powder with 1% Eldew 98
Pressed Powder with 3% Eldew 98
Prolonged Skin Moisturizer 99
Skin Lightening Composition 99
Three Layer Facial Moisturizer 99
100
Slenderizing Cream with Green Tea Extract 101
Molded Eye Shadow 97
Purifying Clay Face Mask
Amidroxy Sugar Cane Cream 101
Soothing Body Gel 102
Anhydrous Deep Penetrating Gel
102
Stick Type Lip Gloss 103
Thickening Mascara 10 4
Thigh Slimming Cream 105
Ultra Rich Hand and Body Nourisher 106
Vegetable Based Moisturizing Cream 107
Liquifying Cream Makeup Remover 10 7
Water Resistant Liquid Foundation 108
Lip Gloss 108
SECTION V:CREAMS 109
All Purpose Cream 110
Vanishing Cream
All Purpose Dry Skin Cream 11 2
Dry Skin Cream 11 2
Almond Vanishing Cream with Collagen 113
Dry Skin Cream 113
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream 114
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream with 10% Aloe Vera Gel 115
Aloe Vera Night Cream 116
Night Cream 116
Anti-Cellulite Cream 117
Antiwrinkle Daycream 118
Daycream
118
Benzoyl Peroxide Cream 119
Day Cream O/W for Sensitive Skin 11 9
Cleansing Cream 12 0
Mascara Cream 12 1
Cold Cream 12 2
Cream 123
Facial Washing Cream 12 3
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x
Contents
and
Subject Index
Day Cream. Oily
125
Moisturizing Cream. Slightly Oily
125
Deep Moisturizing Cream 126
Apricot Vanishing Cream
127
Emollient Cream
128
Stabilized Urea Moisturizing Cream
128
Emollient Cream for Dry Flaking Skin 129
Facial Cleansing Cream 129
Emollient Cream
130
Non-Greasy Emollient Cream
130
Emollient Cream
131
European O N Day Cream
132
Cream
132
Facial Moisturizing Cream
134
Moisturizing Hand and Body Cream
134
Facial Night Cream
135
General Purpose Cream 136
General Purpose WatedOil Cream
136
General Purpose O/W Cream
137
Acne Scrub Cream
140
Emollient Cream, WatedOil
140
General Purpose Cream
141
Water-in-Oil Cream
141
General Purpose Water/Oil Cream
142
Mineral Oil Cream-W/O
147
General Purpose W/O Cream 148
Oil-in-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative
148
General Purpose W/O Hand Cream
149
Oil-in-Water Cream
149
Gentle Night Repair Cream 150
Glycolic Acid Cream 152
Hand and Body Cream
153
High Content Mineral Oil Cream
154
O/W etrolatum Cream
154
Hydrocortisone Cream
155
All Natural Cream W/O ype) 155
Hydrogen Peroxide Cream 156
Hydroxy Acid Cream W/O mulsion)
157
Moisturizing Cream Cold Process W/O 157
Vanishing Cream
131
Exfoliating Cream 133
Age Spot Treatment Cream
135
Glossy Cream
151
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Contents and Subject Index xiii
Facial Moisture Creme
158
Mixed Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream 159
Multi-Functional Day Cream 160
Multi-Purpose Cream 16 1
Versatile Cream
161
Night Cream (15% Aloe) 16 2
Aloe Bath Soap 16 2
OiWater Cold Cream 163
O/W Cold Cream (Soap Free) 163
O i w a t e r Moisturiz ing Cream 164
O iW a t e r Moisturizing Cream 164
O iW at e r Night Cream 165
W/O Night Cream 16 5
O iW a te r Pigmented Cream 166
O W All-Purpose Cream 166
Oil-in-Water-in-Oil Cream 16 7
Transparent Cleansing Cream 16 7
O/W
Protective Hand Cream 168
Hand Cream 168
Modified Oil-in-Water Stearic Acid Cream 169
Skin Cream 169
Hand Cream 169
Moisturizer
O/W
Cream 170
Moisturizing Cream 17 1
Night Cream, Non-Greasy 173
O/W
Cream, with Bacteriostat 173
Protective Face and Body Cream
174
Protective Face and Body Cream
175
Neck Firming Cream 172
Eye Cream 174
Moisturizing Cream 17 5
Rejuvenating Cream 176
W/O Night Repair Cream Cold Procedure 176
Silk Protein Skin Cream 177
Moisturizing Cream with Tritosol 177
Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-B 178
Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-C 179
Silky Smooth Cream Base 179
SkinCream 180
Skin Cream with CAE and Amihope
181
Cleansing Cream 181
Skin Care Cream 182
Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-A 178
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xiv Contents and Subject Index
Jojoba Oil Cream 18 3
Vanishing Cream 184
Ross Cold Cream Formulation with Jojoba Oil 185
W/O Cream with Eldew 186
Cleansing Cream 186
90% Water Cream 187
Soft
and Silky Vanishing Cream 187
SECTION VI: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS
188
Artic Mist Spray Gel 189
Super Hard Hold Hair Spray 189
Balsam Conditioner 190
Clear Conditioner with Wheat Germ Cationic 190
Clear Leave-On Conditioner 190
Birch Hair Lotion 19 1
Invigorating Hair Lotion 191
Hair Conditioner 191
Brushing Gel 19 2
Hair Brushing Lotion 192
Brushing Lotion 193
Hair Rinse 193
Clear Conditioner 194
Light Hair Conditioner 19 4
Clear Gel Hairdressing 19 5
WatedO il Hair Dressing 195
Clear 'N' Natural Conditioner 196
Cream
of
Wheat Conditioner 196
Conditioner and Setting Lotion 197
Curl Conditioner and Oil Sheen 19 7
Foaming Conditioner 197
Conditioner with Croquat HH 198
High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner 198
Cream Curl Activator 199
Hair Relaxer Emulsion 199
Cream Hair Conditioner 200
Hair Conditioner 200
Pearl Conditioner 200
Cream Hair Rinse 201
Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsion 201
Permanent Wave Lotion 201
Deep Conditioning Treatment 202
Intensive Conditioner with Body 202
Ethn ic Hair Care Clear Hair Rinse 203
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Contents and Subject Index xv
Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activa tion Gels Hair Repair 204
Conditioning Sheen 204
Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens
Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel for Shine 205
Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel Moisturizing 205
Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizing'Sheen 206
Ethn ic Hair Care Hair Cuticle Coat Conditioner 206
Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On MoisturizindOil-Sheens
Moisturizing Sheen 207
Ethn ic Hair Care Pump Spray-On Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens
Extra Sheen 207
Ethnic Hair GlossedConditioner 208
Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner 208
Ethnic Hair GlosserBxtra Conditioning 209
Ethnic air Care Extra Conditioning Coat Conditioner 209
Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse 210
Leave-On Hair Conditioner 210
Firm Hold Hairspray 211
High Performance Styling Spray 211
Gel Curl Activator 212
Alcohol Free Styling Gel pH:
7.2
212
Guanidine No Base Relaxer 213
Potassium Relaxer 213
Hair Brushing Lotion 214
Hair Conditioner 215
Hair Conditioner with Moisturizers and Quatemium-79
Hydrolyzed Animal Protein 216
High Quality Conditioner 216
Hair Conditioning Gel 217
Hair Conditioner with CAE 217
Hair Conditioning Lotion 218
Clear Hair Conditioner Lotion 218
Hair Conditioning Gel 218
Hair Cream 219
Hair Tonic 219
Hair Dressing W/O Cold Process 220
Hair Styling Gel 220
Hair Gloss to Control Gel Concentrate 221
Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate 221
Hair Pomade 222
Hair Re lax er4 lyc er in e 223
Hair Rela xer-G lyco l 223
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mi
Contents and Subject Index
Hair Straightener
225
Conditioning Styling Gel 225
High Petrolatum Mousse Aerosol
226
Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mousse 226
Hot Oil Conditioner
227
Hot Oil Super Conditioner
227
Soft Glossing Spritz 227
Intensive Conditioning Pomade
228
Light Oil Free Conditioner
228
Intensive Hair Conditioner 229
Salon Strength Hair Conditioner
229
Leave-On Scalp and Hair Conditioner 230
Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse
230
Light Oil Free Conditioner
231
Aloe Vera air Conditioner (Light)
231
Low Cost Relaxer 232
Extra Stable Relaxer
232
Medium Hold,
80
VOC Pump Hair Spray
233
55
VOC Pump Hair Spray
233
Medium Strength Hair Conditioner
234
Medium Hair Conditioner
234
Moisture Balance Conditioner w/Cropeptide
W 235
Leave-On Conditioner Concentrate
235
Natural Lipid Conditioner for Professional Salon 236
Mild Opaque Conditioner
236
Mild Pearl Conditioner 236
Non-Aerosol Hair Spray with Protein
237
Hair Rinse for Stressed Hair
237
Pearly Lotion Conditioner 238
Protein Lotion Conditioner
238
Spray Leave-On Conditioner
238
Pump Gel Type Spritz
239
Moisturizing Hair Styling Gel 239
Pump Spray Hair Detangler
240
Hot Oil Treatment
240
Ringing Gel 24
Micro Emulsion Ringing Gel
241
Salon Type Hair Conditioner
242
Silicone Hair Gel 243
Shebu Hair Setting Gel
243
Stiff Holding Hairspray
244
Aerosol Shaping Hairspray 244
StylingIConditioning Mousse 245
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Contents
and
Subject Index xvii
Hair Straightening Cream
245
Styling Mousse
X22176-106
(Hydroalcoholic)
Styling Mousse X22176-107 (Alcohol-Free)
Water-Based Hair Spray
X21980-057
(Pump)
Water-Based Hair Spray
X21980-058
(Aerosol)
247
Wheat erm Foaming Conditioner
248
Natural Lipid Styling Mousse
248
Pump Type Hair Spray
248
55 VOC Aerosol Hair Spray
249
80 VO C Non-Aerosol Hair Spray
249
80
VOC Hair Spray
250
55 VOC Aerosol Hair Spray
250
80
VOC Hair Spray
251
High Humidity Hair Spray 251
80
VOC Aerosol Shaper Hair Spray
252
High Solids
80
VOC Hair Spray
252
246
246
247
SECTION
W
OTIONS
253
After Exercise Body Lotion
254
Therapeutic Humectant Lotion 254
Alcoholic Milk Lotion
255
Milk Lotion 255
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
256
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion 257
Banana Hand Lotion
258
O W
Lotion 258
Behenyl Hand Lotion
259
Velvet 44-Behenyl Lotion
259
Body Lotion
260
Body Lotion
261
Moisturizing Hand Lotion
261
Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
262
Deep Skin Cleansing Lotion
263
Hand Lotion 263
Deep Moisturizing Lotion
264
Hand and Body Lotion
264
Emollient Lotion
265
Hand and Body Lotion
265
European O/W Cleansing Lotion 266
Water/Oil Cleansing Lotion
266
Gentle Moisturizing Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
267
Emollient Lotion
O/W
Cold Process
260
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xviii Contents and Subject Index
Soft Hand Lotion 27 1
Hand and Body Lotion 272
Jojoba Lotion 272
High Petrolatum Lotion 273
Low Irritation Moisturizing Lotion
273
Hydroalcoholic Mineral Oil Emulsion 274
Mineral Oil Lotion 274
Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion 275
Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion 275
Isopropyl Myristate Lotion 276
Vanishing Lotion 276
Lanolin and Aloe Lotion 277
Lotion 278
Glossy Lotion 278
Low Solids Almond Lotion I 279
Peach Hand Lotion 279
Milk Lotion 280
Mineral Oil Lotion 282
Mineral O il L o t i o n 4 / W 282
Mineral Oil Free Lotion Contains Ethanol (20%) 28 3
Lotion 283
Moisturizing Lotion 284
Pomade Lotion 284
Neutralizing Lotion 285
Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion 285
O/W Broad Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion
with Vitamins 286
O/W Lotion 287
O/W Lotion with a-Hydroxy Acids 289
O/W Lotion Cold/Cold Process 289
Oil-in-Water Body Care Lotion 290
OiWJater Foundation Lotion 290
O iW a te r Emollient Lotion 291
Perfumed Body Lotion 292
Silk Protein Skin Lotion 293
Pearlescent Bath Lotion 293
Skin Care Body Lotion 294
Skin Moisturizing Lotion 295
Dry Skin Lotion 295
Skin Softening Lotion 296
Skin Lotion 296
Soft and Silky Lotion 297
Low Cost Low Solids Lotion 297
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Contents and Subject Index xix
Apricot Hand Lotion 298
Super Moisturizing Lotion 299
IRF Facial Lotion 300
Facial Moisturizing Lotion (W/O) 300
Ultra Moisturizing Lotion 30 1
Un-Buffered Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion 302
Body Lotion 303
W/O
Lotion with Eldew 304
Mild Lotion with Amihope 304
W/O Lotion 303
S E W O N
VIII:
SHAMPOOS
305
Acid Balanced Conditioning Shampoo 306
All Purpose Shampoo 306
Aloe Vera Gel Shampoo 306
Aloe Vera Premium-Type Shampoo with Protein 307
Anti-Dandruff Lotion Shampoo 308
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Cream Type 308
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo 309
Cleaning Shampoo Type 309
Anti-Dandruff Shampoos 310
Shampoos for Greasy Hair 310
Antidandruff Shampoo 311
Protein Shampoo
311
Balsam and Protein Shampoo
Cleaning Shampoo 313
Conditioning Shampoo 314
Conditioning Shampoo 316
Cold Mix Shampoo w/Crosultaine C-50
Conditioning Shampoo 317
Everyday Hair Shampoo 317
Conditioning Shampoo 318
Gentle Shampoo 318
Conditioning Shampoo 319
Mild Conditioning Shampoo 319
Cream Shampoo 320
Highly Pearlescent Shampoo 320
Emollient Shampoo 32 1
Moisturizing Shampoo
321
Shampoo Concentrate 32 1
312
Professional Salon Type Shampoo 315
316
Ethn ic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo (Cold Process) Clear 322
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Contents and Subject Index
Gel Shampoo
324
Mild Conditioning Shampoo 324
Conditioning Shampoo
324
Hair Shampoo. Dilutable Viscous Shampoo For Customer
(Dilution
1:4 325
Viscous Consumer Shampoo 325
Transparent Shampoo 325
Hair Shampoo. Clear 32.6
Hair Shampoo. Clear
327
Hair Shampoos. Pearlescent 327
Hair Shampoo with Conditioner
328
Hair Shampoo with Conditioner for Everyday Use
328
Herbal Shampoo. Pearlescent 329
Highly Concentrated Hair Shampoo
329
High Foaming 2 n Shampoo 330
Silicone Free 2:l Shampoo 330
Light Conditioning Shampoo
331
Low
pH. Protein Gel Shampoo 333
Mild Conditioning Shampoo
333
Economy Shampoo
333
Moisture Balance Shampoo with Cropeptide W 335
Shampoo with Tritisol 335
Vitamin Shampoos
336
Shampoo for Dry Hair
336
Salon Conditioning Shampoo 337
Salon Style Shampoo
338
2 n High Conditioning Shampoo 338
Shampoo for Permed Hair 339
Pearlescent Shampoo Concentrate
339
Neutralizer Shampoo 339
Sport Shampoo 340
Herbal Shampoo Against Greasy air
340
Two in One Shampoo
341
Three in One Shampoo 344
Wheat and Sesame Shampoo
346
Detangling Shampoo 346
Wheat Germ Conditioning Shampoo
347
No-Sting 2: Shampoo 347
Lotion Shampoo 325
Hair Shampoo
326
Mild Shampoo
334
Protein Shampoos
336
Stripper Shampoo
347
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Contents
and
Subject
Index xx
SECTION IX
SHAVING
PRODUCTS 348
Aerosol Shaving Cream 349
Nonionic Aerosol Foam 349
After Shave Balm 350
Shave Gel 350
After Shave Conditioner 351
Alcohol Free After Shave Lotion 352
Conditioning After Shave Toner 352
Brushless Shave Cream 353
Emulsion for Shaving 354
Soap Free-Nonionic Shaving Emu1
354
Hemostatic After Shave 355
Shaving Foam
355
Shaving Creme 356
Shaving Gel 356
Ultra Aerosol Shave Cream for Sensitive
Skin
357
SECTION
X SOAPS AND
HAND CLEANERS 358
Economy Heavy-Duty and Cleaners
359
Emulsion Cleaner 360
Waterless Hand Cleaner 360
Emulsion Cleaner and Waterless Hand Cleaner Emulsion
Cleaner 361
Waterless and Cleaner 36 1
Fast Set Waterless Hand Cleaner with d-Limonene F-453 362
Clear Gel d-Limonene Waterless Hand Cleaner F-454
Hand Cleaning Paste 363
Hand Cleaning Cream. Free of Solvents 363
Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent
363
Hand Cleaners from Concentrate
Economy 364
Pearlescent 364
Premium 364
Lotion 364
Glucopon and
AS
365
Glucopon and
LAS
365
Glucopon and
AES
365
Glucopon and AOS 365
Liquid Hand Soap Concentrate (Antimicrobial) 366
Waterless Hand Cleaner (Gel) 366
Waterless Hand Cleaner (Lotion) 366
Industrial and Institutional Liquid Hand Soaps
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xvii Contents and Subject Index
Cream Soap (Requires Heat) 367
Liquid and Soap 367
Liquid Soap 368
Liquid Synthetic Soaps 369
Liquid Soap with Aloe Vera Gel 370
Pearlescent Liquid Hand Soap 370
Low Cost Clear Cleansing Bar 37 1
Shower Soap
371
Medicated
Skin
Cleaner 372
Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaner 372
Mild Lotion Soap
373
Liquid Hand Soap 373
Premium Emollient Hand Soap 374
Hand Cleaner 374
Water Free Hand Cleaner 376
Waterless Hand Cleaner 376
Waterless Hand Cleaner No 390 378
Liquid Waterless Hand Cleaner No 243 378
SECTION XI: SUN CARE PRODUCTS
379
Absorbing Sunscreen 380
Synergistic Sunscreen 380
Absorbing Sunscreen 381
Water Resistant SP4 Sunscreen Composition 381
Non-Alcoholic Sunscreen 38 1
After Sun Lotion 382
Solar Tanning Oil Mousse
382
Aloe After Sun Lotion (40% Aloe) 383
Suntan Lotion 383
Aloe Suntan Lotion 384
After Sun Lotion 384
Buffered Self Tanning Lotion 385
Cooling After Sun Lotion 386
Suntan Lotion 386
Daily UV Protection Lotion (Approximate SPF 18) 387
European O/W Sun Protection Cream 388
O/W
Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream 388
Lip Balm with Sunscreen-A 389
Lip Balm with Sunscreen-B 389
Non-Chemical Sunscreen Lotion (Approximate SPF 15) 390
O/W After Sun Milk 391
W/O After Sun Cream
391
O N
Cream (SPF 5 ) (UVA/UVB Ratio 0.91) 392
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Contents and
Subject
Index xxiii
O/W Hydroalcoholic Sunscreen 393
W/O Sunscreen (SPF 17) 393
394
W/O Sunscreen Cream 394
O/W Sunscreen Lotion 395
O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion 396
O/W
Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 12) 39 7
O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) 398
O N
Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 10) 398
W /O Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 20) 399
O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion
Indicative SPF 8 400
Indicative SPF
25t
401
Indicative SPF 15 402
Solar Tanning Cream 403
Solar Tanning Cream High Protection 404
Tanning Jelly 404
Solar Tanning Cream Super Protection 405
Jojoba After Sun Lotion 405
Solar Tanning Lotion-A 406
Solar Tanning Lotion-B 406
Solar Tanning Lotion-C 407
Solar Tanning Lotion-D 407
Solar Tanning Lotion High Protection 408
Solar Tanning Lotion Super Protection 408
Solar Tanning Oil-A 409
Solar Tanning Oil-B 409
Solar Tanning Oil-C 409
Solar Tanning Oil-D 409
Solar Tanning Stick White Color 410
Solar Tanning Stick Tan Color 410
Sun Block
Soft
Cream ( O W ) Tested SPF 26 411
Sun Filter Foam 412
After Sun Stick 412
Sun Protection Lotion 413
Sunscreen with Amihope 415
W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with Elder 415
Sunscreen Balm (Cold Processing) SPF 8
(DIN
67501) 416
Sunscreen Cream 417
W /O Sunscreen Cream 418
Sunscreen Cream Water-in-Oil (Expected SPF 1 5 t ) 419
Skin Bronzing Cream 419
O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream
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xr v Contents and Subject Index
Sun Screen Cream W/O 421
Sun Screen Cream W/O. Oily 422
Self Tanning Lotion 422
Sunscreen Cream 423
Suntan Cream 424
425
425
Sunscreen Gel SP F 6 (FDA-OTC) 426
Sunscreen Lotion 427
Sunscreen Lotion 429
O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion 429
Sunscreen Lotion (o/w)
SPF 6 (DIN 67501) 430
SPF
11 (DIN
67501) 431
SPF 4
(DIN
67501) 432
SPF 10 (DIN 67501)
434
waterproof 435
Sunscreen Gel (approx SPF 10)
Sunscreen Gel (approx SPF 12)
Sunscreen Lotion (approx SPF 15) 428
SPF
18
(FDA-OTC) 433
Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) (cold processing) SPF 6 (FDA-OTC)
Sunscreen Lotion
(o/w)
SP F 30 (FDA-OTC) 436
Tested SPF 10 437
Tested SPF 16 438
SP F 6 (FDA-OTC). waterproof
439
Tested SPF 11 440
Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream 441
Tanning Accelerator 442
Sun Screen Stick 442
Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen SPF 1 2 (tested)
443
Ultra Violet Absorbing Sunscreen 444
Unbuffered Self Tanning Cream 445
Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion (with 8% Titanium
Dioxide) SPF 15 446
W O Sunscreen Lotion SPF 22 446
Waterproof Sunscreen
Gel ve st ed SPF 30) 447
Spray Mist SPF 16 (Tested) 447
W/O Emulsion SPF 22 (Static) SPF 21 (Waterproof) 448
W/O Emulsion SPF 15 448
SPF3.5
449
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base
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Contents and Subject Index
xx
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion
S P F 2 1 4 5 0
S P F 1 5 4 5 0
S P F 1 7 4 5 1
With 8% Titanium Dioxide, SPF 12 451
Water Resistant Sunscreen 452
W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew 454
Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew 454
W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew 455
W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-18 456
W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-17 456
Waterproof W/O Sun Protection Lotion
SECTION
XII:
MISCELLANEOUS
457
Aloe Medicated Gel With Alcohol (SDA 39C) 458
Aloe Medicated
Gel
Without Alcohol 458
Cetylpyridinium Chloride Mouthwash 459
Spearmint Mouthwash 459
Clear Gel Without DEA 460
Silicone Emulsion 460
Clear Ringing Gel 46 1
Clear Gel Base 461
Cream Sachet 462
Liquid Cologne 462
Solid Cologne 462
High-Luster Toothpaste 463
Denture Cleaner 463
Hydrophilic O/W Ointment Base 464
Emollient Anhydrous Ointment 464
W/O Ointment Base 464
Washable Anhydrous Base 464
Jojoba Massage Oil 465
Massage Oil 465
Micro-Emulsions with Aloe Vera and d-Limonene 466
Modified Petrolatum 467
Washable Oil 467
Ointment Base 468
Anhydrous Ointment 468
Zinc Oxide Ointment-Anhydrous 468
O W Ointment Base 469
Oil-in-Water-in-Silicone Emulsion 470
Protein-Lecithin Complex Emulsion 470
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m Contents and Subject Index
Pharmaceutical Ointment Base
471
Washable Oil
472
Wound Healing Accelerator 474
Massage Gel
474
Petrolatum Stick
474
W/O Ointment Base
475
SECTION
XLLI
TRADE-NAMED RAW MATERIALS
476
SECTION XIV:SUPPLIERS' ADDRESSES 526
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Section
I
Antiperspirants and
Deodorants
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osmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick
I n s r e d i e n t s :
A
Dow Co rn i n g 345 f l u i d
Arlamol ISML
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
A luminum ch lo ro hy dr a t e powder
H yd ro ge na te d c a s t o r o i l
w w
45.00
10.00
15.00
25.00
5.00
B *Fragrance
q.
s. t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure :
m i x t h o r o u g h l y . C oo l t o j u s t above
s,
7 i n t and pa cka ge i n
a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a in e r s .
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t he y a i 11 l i q u i d (app . 72C) and
Formula
C P
1085
Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A Dow C o rn in g 345 f l u i d
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
A luminum ch lo ro hy dr a t e powder
H yd ro ge na te d c a s t o r o i l
w w
45.00
25.00
2 5 -0 0
5 . 0 0
B
*Fragrance
* q .
s
t h e s e g r e d i e n t s
.
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s
t i l l
t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d (a pp . 72C) and
Formula
CP
1086
Procedure :
m ix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n
a n t i p e r sp i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a in e r s .
Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiper
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
Dow
C o rn in g 344 f l u i d
Ar lamol ISML
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
R eh ei s m i c r o d r y
C as to rw ax , h y dr o ge n at ed c a s t o r o i l
w/w
45.00
10.00
15.00
25.00
5.00
Procedure :
m ix t h o r o u g h l y . C ool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n
a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a in e r s .
SOURCE: I C 1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d (a pp . 72C) and
Formula
PC
8220
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Antiperspirants and Deodorants
Antiperspirant
I n a r e d i e n t s :
V o l a t i l e s i l i c o n e ,
D . C .
344 f l u i d
Arlamol ISML
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
A luminum ch lo r oh yd ra te powder , M ic r o - d r y
Castor wax
45.00
10.00
15.00
25.00
5 .00
Procedure :
and m ix t h o r u g h l y . C ool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and p acka ge
i n a n t ip e r sp r a n t s t i c k c o n t a i n e r s .
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s
t i l l
t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d ( ap p. 72C)
I n s r e d i e n t s :
V o l a t i l e s i 1
Arlamol ISML
Antiperspirant
cone, D . C . 344 f l u i d
48.50
10.00
A1
Z r
Te t ra c h l o ro h y d r e x - g l y , Rez al 36
GP,
super
u l r a f e
20.00
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
16.00
Hydrogenated Castor
O i l
5 .00
Fragrance , Sp i cy l i m e 4851-AN, IF F 0 .50
Procedure:
m ix t h o r o u g h l y . C oo l t o j u s t a bove s e t p o i n t and p ackag e i n
a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c on ta in e rs .
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s
t i l l
t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d ( ap p. 72C) and
Aerosol Antiperspirant
I n s r e d i e n t s :
A
Q ua te rn iu m- 18 h e c t o r i t e g e l
A r l a m o l
E
C yc lo me th ic on e, V o l a t i l e s i l i c o n e 7207
A r l a c e l
80
8.00
3.00
3.00
0.50
B
Aluminum ch lo ro hy dr a t e , Mac ro spher i ca l 95
6.00
C H yd ro ca rb on p r o p e l l a n t , p r o p e l l a n t A-46 7 9. 50
Procedure :
Mix
( A )
th or ou gh ly w i t h medium sheer equ ipment . Add
B )
a t
a s lo w s t e a d y r a t e and m ix t h o r o u g h l y . F i l l vacuum crimp and
c ha rg e ae r o so l u n i t s w i t h ( C ) .
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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4
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Perspirant Cream
I n s r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g .m .s .
C e t y l a l c o h o l
B Water, de i on i zed
A lu min um c h l o r h y d r o x i d e c om pl ex , 50% s o l u t i o n
Procedure :
a g i t a t i o n .
S t i r
u n t i l s e t .
Hea t (A ) t o 70C. He a t ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A ) w i t h
Anti-Perspirant Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
A r l a c e l 1 6 5
Spermacet i
B G l y c e r o l
Water, de i on i zed
C
T i t a n iu m d i o x i d e
D Aluminum ch lo rhyd rox ide comp lex
E *Perfume
q . s .
t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
5 .00
5 .00
50.00
40.00
18.00
5.00
5.00
53 .00
1 - 0 0
18.00
Procedure :
Heat (A) and
6)
o 80C. a nd add (6 ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
S t i r f o r 15 m in ut es and add (C) s l o w ly , c o n t in u e t o a g i t a t e
and c o o l t o
4 0 C .
Add ( D ) and c on t i nu e t o a g i t a t e u n t i l m i x t u r e
i s homogenous. Add
( E )
and s t i r .
O il/W ater An tiperspirant C ream
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A S t e a r i c ac id , t r i p l e pre s s e d
Beeswax
M in er a l o i l
A r l a c e l
60
Tween 60
B
Water, de i on i zed
C
Aluminum Ch lo r hy d r a t e , 50% s o l
*Perfume
* q . s .
t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
14 .00
2.00
1
. o o
5.00
5.00
33 .00
40.00
Procedure :
w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40 deg.
C .
Add (C) and
c o n t i n ue m i x i n g u n t i 1 c o o l .
Heat (A) t o 85 deg.
C
and (6 ) t o 8 5 d eg .
C .
Add
6 )
o ( A )
SOURCE: IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Antiperspirants and Deodorants 5
Antiperspirant Roll-On
I n n r e d i e n t s :
A
Ar lamo l
E
Arlamol ISML
B r i j
721
B r i j 72
B
Water
C
A1 umi num
Z i
r c o n i
u m
Tet ra Ch lorohydrex-GLY
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e
*Fragrance
q.
s .
t h e s e g r e d i e n t s
.
( 50 % aqueous s o l u t i o n )
96
w /w
3 .00
4.00
1 . 5 0
2 . 5 0
49 00
40.00
Procedure :
t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add
( C )
a t a bout 50C and
D )
a t abo ut 45C. Add
wate r a t 35C t o compensa te
f o r
l o s s due t o e v a p o r at i o n .
Heat
( A )
t o 60C and 6 ) t o 65C. Add
8) o
(A) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r
Package.
Formula
AD-3
Roll-On Antiperspirant
I n a r e d i e n t s
:
A Ar lamo l
I S M L
Ar lamo l
E
B r i j
721
B r i j
72
B
Wa t e r , d e i o n i z e d
C
Aluminum ch lo rohydra te
(50%
s o l u t i o n ) , W i ck en o l 303
D
Germaben
I 1
q . s .
t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure :
w/w
3 .00
3 . 0 0
1 . 5 0
2 .50
49.00
40.00
1 . o o
Heat
( A )
t o 60C and (6 ) t o 6%. Add
8 )
t o
( A )
u s i n g
p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C) a t a b ou t 50C and
D )
a t
about
45C.
Add wat er a t 35C
t o
compensate
f o r
l o s s due t o
eva por at n. Package
.
SOURCE: IC1
Su r f a c t a n t s : Sug ge st ed Fo rm u l a t i o n s
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Cosmetic
and
oiletry Formulations
Antiperspirant Stick
I n g r e d i e n t s : W/W
A B r i j 721 2.30
Arlamol E
11.50
Isopropyl myr i s tat e
&
s t e a r a l k o n i u r n
h e c t or i t e
5.70
Ozokerite
wax 22.40
M y r i s t y l
a l c o h o l 17.20
B
A l u m i n u m Z i r c o n i u m
t r i chlorohyd rat e
23.00
C
Cy clometh icone 17.90
*q.s. t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
Heat
(A) to 65 deg. C and (B) to 68 deg. C. Add (B) to (A)
w i t h
agi tat ion
and i m m e d i a t e l y ad d
(C).
S t i r
to 50
deg.
C and
pour in to molds.
Oil In Water
Antiperspirant
Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : W/W
A
Cetyl alcohol 0.50
A r l a m o l E 3.00
B r i j 72 2.00
Brij 721 1.00
B Water
58.50
*Preservative
C A l u m i n u m c hlor h y d r ox i d e , 50
aqueous
s o l u t i o n 35.00
*q.s. the s e
i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
Heat
(A) to 85
d e g.
C and (B) to 85
deg.
. Add (B) to (A)
w h i l e
s t i r r i n g.
Mi x w h i le
coolin g
to 40 deg. C. Add (C) and
c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l
cool.
Formula
AD-5
Anti Perspirant Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
W/W
A
Arlacel
165,
acid st able
g.m.s. 15.00
Water,
deionized 45.00
B
A l u m u n u m
chlorhydroxide complex,
50
solution
40.00
Procedure:
Heat (A) to
7OC.
Heat (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A)
w i t h
rapi d
agitation.
Cool to room
t empe rature wi t h s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE: ICI
Surfactants: Suggested Formulati ons
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Antiperspirants and Deodorants
Deodorant
A . I m w i t o r
960
f l a k e s
S o f t i s a n 645
Hostaphat
K L 340 N
C e t y l a l c o h o l
Raluben TL
A1 umi num a c e t a t e
B . Ka r i o n F
H o s t a c e r i n g e l 1%*
B e n z y l a l c o h o l
Water
Wt
6 . 0
5 . 0
5 . 0
2.0
0 . 5
0 . 5
5 . 0
12.0
1
. o
t o 100.0
C . Perfume
q s
Pre p a ra t n
:
b r o u g h t t o t h e same t em p e r a t u re and a dded s l o w l y t o A . w i t h
s t i r r i n g . C . i s added a t a pp ro x.
3 0 C .
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e he at ed t o 75-BOC. Tho se o f
B.
a r e
* P r ep a r at i on o f t h e H os t ac e r i n g e l : H o s t a c e r i n PN 73 1 . 0 %
Water t o 100 .0%
The H o s t a c e r i n i s mi xe d w i t h w a t e r u n t i l homogeneous a nd t h e
m ix tu re s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e g e l i s c l e a r .
A .
M i g l y o l 8 1 2
Dynasan 114
Dynasan 110
I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s
Beeswax
B.
Perfume
Ac t e g
r
ed n t
3 0 . 0
20 .0
1 8 . 5
1o;o
2 0 . 0
P r e p a r a t i on
:
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f
A .
ar e me l ted a t 75C and a t abou t 40C
p e rf um e i s added, t h e m i x i s ho mo ge nis ed an d c a s t i n t o m o ul ds .
SOURCE:
H u l s A m er ic a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s
f o r
Cosmetics: Formulas
Deodorant Stick
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Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
M a t e r i a l s :
1 .
Cyc lometh icone
2 . S t e a r y l A l c o h o l
3 .
A r l a c e l 1 6 5
4 .
T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 3 3 2 8
5 . Be nt on e G el VS-5 Rh e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e
6 . A lu minu m Ch l o r o h y d r a t e (M i c ro n i z e d )
7 . T a l c
8
Fra g ra n c e
bv Weight
39.7
2 2 . 0
2 . 0
0 . 2
1 0 . 0
2 5 . 0
1 . o
0 . 1
M a n uf a ct u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s
A . He at t h e Cy c lo m e th i co n e t o 65C.
B .
W i th s t i r r i n g , s l o w l y add i n g r e d i e n t 2, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e temp-
e r a t u r e a t 65C t h r u s t e p
E
C . When a l l o f i n g r e d i e n t
2
i s m e lt ed , add i n g r e d i e n t s
3
and
4 . M ix f o r 15 m i n u t e s .
D . Add Bentone Gel VS-5 Rh eo lo g ic a l A d d i t i v e and mix f o r 30
m i n u t e s .
E .
A d d i n g r e d i e n t s
6
and
7 ,
m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s .
F . A l l o w t h e b a t c h t o co o l t o 55C, add F ra g ra n ce , m i x f o r
5
m i nu te s and po ur i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r s .
Formula TS-289
M a t e r i a l s :
1 .
Bentone Gel VS-5 R heo log i ca l A d d i t i v e
2 . Cyc lometh i cone
3 . SDA
A l c o h o l
4 0
4 .
I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e
5 . A luminum Ch l o ro hyd ra t e
6 . F rag rance
bv Wei q h t
1 5 . 0
54 0
3 . 0
2 . 0
25.0
1 . o
M a n u fa c tu r in g D i r e c t i o n s :
A .
Combine th e Bentone Gel VS-5 w i t h i n g r e d ie n ts 2 and 3 us in g
B .
Ad d i n g re d i e n t
4 ,
t h en i n g r e d i e n t 5 , w i t h c on st an t a g i t a t i o n .
C .
Add i n g r e d i e n t 6 .
Formula TS-288
SOURCE:
Rheox, I n c ,
:
Su gg e st ed Fo rm u l a t i o n s
v ig o r ou s a g i t a t i o n . M ix u n t i l u n i fo r m .
M ix u n t i l t h e powder i s u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d .
Dry Antiperspirant Stick
Quick Drying Roll-On Antiperspirant
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Antiperspirants and Deodorants 9
Dry Roll-On Antiperspirant
M a t e r i a l s :
1 .
Bentone Gel
I P M
r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e
2
SDA
40
3. I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e
4 . Cy c l o m e t h i c o n e
5 . A1 umi num C h lo r o h y d r a t e
6 . F ra g ra n c e
by We iqh t
1 5 . 0
3 . 0
2 . 0
5 4 . 0
25 .0
1
. o
M a n uf a ct u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 .
Combine t h e B e nt on e G el IPM a d d i t i v e w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s
2 , 3
and o n e - h a l f o f i n g r e d i e n t 4 i n a m ix in g k e t t l e . M ix u n t i l
u n i f or m . Add t h e r e m ai n in g p o r t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t 4, c o n t i n u e
m i
x i n g .
i s u n i fo rm l y d i s t r i b u t e d .
2 .
Add i n g r e d i e n t 5
w i t h
a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g
until
t h e powder
3 .
Add t h e f r a g ra n c e , m i x ,
f i l l
u n i t s .
Formula TS-237
Talc Spray Antiperspirant
Ma te r i a1
s :
1 .
B en to ne G el I PM r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e
2 . SDA 40
3 .
I s o p r o p y l M y ri s t a t e
4 .
Cyc lometh i cone
5 .
Aluminum Ch lo rohydra te
6 . T a l c
7 .
Fragrance
8 . P r o p e l l a n t A-46
by Wei q h t
8 . 0
2 . 0
1 . 5
5 . 0
6 . 0
2 . 0
0 . 5
75.00
M a n u fa c tu r in g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 .
C o m b i n e i n g r e d i e n t s
1
t h r o u g h
4
an d t h o r o u g h l y m i x u s i n g
2 .
Add i n g r e d i e n t s 5 a nd
6
a t a s lo w r a t e and m ix i n th o r o u g h ly .
3 , Add f rag ra nc e and m i x .
4. F i l l , v acuum c r i m p and gas ae r o s o l u n i t s .
Formula TS-245
S O U R C E :
Rheox, I n c . : Sug ge st ed Fo r m u l a t i o n s
medium shear equipment.
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O Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose Stick Formulation-1
I n g r e d i e n t s ;
A-C
Po l y e t h y l e n e 617A
A c e t y l a t e d L an ol i n A l co h o l
O z o k e r i t e ( 1 7 0 D) * *
M i n e r a l
O i l ( 7 0 s s * * *
Span 60
C l o u d P o i n t ,
C : 80
General Purpose Stick Formulation-2
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A - C Po lye thye lene 617A
A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h o l *
O z o k e r i t e ( 1 7 0 D) * *
M i n e r a l
O i l
(70
s s ) * * *
Span 60
C l o u d P o i n t ,
C :
76
wt
8
16
16
55
5
E
7
14
14
60
5
Procedure :
p o i n t u n t i l s o l u t i o n t u r n s c l e a r . Around 60-70C, add p er fu me ,
a lu min um c h l o ro h y d r a t e a nd p r e s e r v a t i v e . De a e ra t e an d p a ck ag e .
M a n u f a c t u r e r s :
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n 2-5C above i t s c l o u d
Malms trom Chemica l, Ac e t o l , o r Amerchol , Ace tu la n
Ross
Wax o r equ i v a l en t
W i
t c o Che mi ca l Ca rn a t i o n
M i
n e r a l
O i 1 ,
o r e q u i Val e n t
Stick Ant iperspirant
I n g r e d i e n t s :
1 . A-C
400
2 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
3 . Dow Corning
S i
1
i cone 344
4 . S t e a r y l A l c o h o l
5 . A1 umi num Ch l o r o h y d r a t e
6. Per fume
P a r t s ,
W t .
15
50
15
20
15
Q.S
Procedure :
S t i r
u n t i l wax b l e n d i s u n i f o r m . Add 5 and s t i r i n . Cool
m i x t u r e down t o 55C and add Perfum e.
SOURCE:
A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : S ug ge sted F o r mu l at i on s
Weigh 1 -4 and h e a t u n t i l
A -C 400
has d i s s o l v e d o r m e l t e d .
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Antiperspirants and Deodorants
Ro ll-On An tiperspirant
T h i s l ow v i s c o s i t y e mu ls io n i s s t a b i l i z e d w i t h Veegum HV
w hic h a l s o p r o v i d e s m ode rate t h i c k e n i n g and e x c e l l e n t , d r y
a f t e r - f e e l . The A l um i n um / Z ir c on i u m Complex h as h i g h e r a n t i -
p e r s p i r a n t e f f i c a c y t h a n a1 umi num c h l o r o h y d r a t e .
I n a r e d i e n t :
A Veegum
H V ,
Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e
Dei on i zed Water
bv W t .
1
. o o
29.00
B
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a nd ) P EG-I00 S t e a r a t e ( 2 )
8 . 0 0
C Aluminum Z i rco n iu m Te t rac h lo roh ydr ex GLY, 30% So ln . ( 3 ) 33 .0 0
Aluminum C h lo r id e , 32 Baume So ln .
5 . 5 0
Aluminum Ch lo rhyd ra te , 50% S o l n .
4 )
1 6 . 5 0
D
Cyc lometh icone
( 5 )
7 . 0 0
E Fra g ra n c e , Dy e , P re s e rv a t i v e
q . s .
( 2 ) A r l a c e l
165
(3) Rezal 36G
( 4 ) C h l o r h y d r o l , 50% S o l u t i o n
( 5 ) R h o d o r s i l 700 45V2
P r e p a r a t i o n
:
s he ar u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and c o m pl e t e ly f r e e o f u n d i s pe r s ed
p a r t i c l e s . I n a no th er c o n ta i n e r , h ea t
B
t o 75C. Heat
C
t o 55C
i n a t h i r d c o n t a in e r . Add
B
t o A w i t h s l ow m i x i n g and c o o l t o
50C. Add
C
t o A&B. M ix a t s lo w s peed u n t i l t h e t e m p er a tu r e
reaches 2%.
Add
D and homogenize f o r 5 m i n u t e s .
A d d E .
M i x
u n t i l u n i f o r m and p ac ka ge .
Co n s i s t e n c y :
800
c p s .
Sugges ted Packag ing: Ro l l -On C on t a in e rs
Comments:
T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d es ig ne d t o s e rv e a s a g u id e f o r
the deve lopment
o f
new p ro d u c t s o r im prov em en t o f e x i s t i n g o n es .
SOURCE:
R .T . V a n d e r b i l t C o. , I n c , : F or mu la
No.
4 4 3
Add Veegum
HV
t o w a t e r a t 75C and m i x w i t h maximum a v a i l a b l e
V i s c o s i t y m easured a f t e r 30 da ys a t room t e m p e r a tu r e i s 600-
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I Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Roll-On Antiperspirant
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A Ar lamo l
E
B r i j
721
B r i j 72
A1 1 a n t i on
B Wa t e r , d e i o n i z e d
C
Alum inum Z i r c o n i u m Te t ra c h l o r o h y d re x G l y ,
Wickenol 386
D
*Pe rf um e a nd P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s
t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .
4 . 0 0
0 .75
3 .25
34.55
0 .20
57.25
Procedure :
Heat
( A )
t o 60C and
5)
o 65C. Add (8 ) t o (A ) u s i n g p ro p -
e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C) a t ab ou t 50C and
0)
a t about 45C.
Add water a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Package,
Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A
Cyc lometh i cone
B r i j
72
B r i j
721
B
Wate r, de4 o n i zed
C A lu min um c h l o rh y d ra t e , 50% aqueous s o l u t i o n
D
*Perfume
* q . s .
t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .
m
10 . 00
2.00
0 . 7 0
52.30
35.00
Procedure :
C ool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g and s l o w l y a dd t h e r em ain de r o f
g r e d i e n t s ,
Heat
A )
t o 70C and (B)
to
72C. Add (B)
to
(A) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
Clear Roll-On A.P. Lotion
I
n u r e d i e n t
s
:
A E t h y l a l c o h o l
B
Ar lamo l
E
H y dr ox yp r op y l c e l l u lo se, K1 uc e l
GF
C
Aluminum chlorhydroxide-propylene g l y c o l complex 20
Procedure :
M ix
A )
t h o r o u g h l y u s i n g h i g h s he ar i f necessary. Add A r
E a nd s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. Add
C)
and s t i r u n t i l c l e a r .
SOURCE: I C 1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
m
69 .00
1 .oo
10
00
00
amo 1
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Antiperspirants and Deodorants
3
Spray Pow der A nti-Perspirant
I n q r e d i e n t s :
( 1 )
Et h a n o l
( S D
40)
(2) Bentone Gel I P M
( 3 ) I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e
(4 ) Cyc lometh i cone
(5 ) A lum inum Ch lo rohydra te
(6 ) Ka o p o l i t e TLC
( 7 )
Fra g ra n c e
8 ) Prope l l a n t A46
by Weight
2 . 0
8 . 0
1 . 5
5 . 0
6 . 0
2 . 0
0 . 5
7 5 0
Procedure :
m i n u t e s .
A t
h i g h s pe ed , add (3 ) , ( 4 ) , ( 6 ) , and
( 7 ) .
M ix w i t h
8 )
and
f i l l .
each produc t used.
f l a m m a b l e i n g r e d i e n t s .
SOURCE:
K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n
Add (1 ) t o ( 2 ) a nd m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Add (5 ) a nd m i x f o r 5
Fo l l ow recommended h an d l i n g p r a c t i c e s
o f
t h e s up p l i e r o f
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d b e u sed when h a n d l i n g
Deodorant Stick
S t e a r i c A c i d
E t h a n o l
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
Phosphol i d PTC
Sod i um H y d ro x i de 50%
bv Weight
8 . 0 0
74.13
10.00
5 . 0 0
0.50
2 . 3 7
Procedure :
and a g i t a t e t o 65-70C, t h e n s l o w l y n e u t r a l i z e t h e s t e a r i c a c i d
w i t h t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e
50%
and co n t i n ue m ix i ng u n t i l c l e a r .
C oo l s l i g h t l y t o 70C. Add f r a g r a n c e and c o l o r , a nd p ac ka ge .
P r o p e r t i es
:
S O U RC E
M o n a I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c :
Sugges ted Formu la t i on
B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r e x c e p t t h e sod iu m h y d r o x i d e . H ea t
Ph y s i c a l App ea ra nc e: T ra n s l u c e n t S o l i d
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14 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Stick Formulation
1 . A-C
Copolymer 400
15
2 . I s o p ro p y l - My r i s t a t e 5 0
3 . Dow 344 F l u i d 15
4 . S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 20
Procedure :
Weigh a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and he a t w i t h a g i t a t i o n . The c l o u d
p o i n t o f t h i s b l e n d i s 72C. Above t h e c l o u d , t h e p o ly e t h y le n e
w i l l e v e n t ua l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l en d.
I f
a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g
t e m pe r a tu r e i s us ed , s o l v a t i o n i s much f a s t e r . C ar e must b e
t a ke n , however, n o t t o v o l a t i l i z e t h e Dow 344 F l u i d . When a l l
i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d , add 15% a lu minu m c h l o r h y d r a t e a nd
q u i c k c o o l , w i t h a g i t a t i o n , t o 45C. Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r and
a l l o w t o co ol f u r t h e r .
Ref: 5189-12-2
Stick Formulation
A - C 400
2 - E t h y l H e x y l S t e a r a t e
M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e
D o w
Corning C344
C e t y l A1 coho1
Span 65
Stick Formulation
A - C 400
2 - E t h y l H e xy l S t e a r a t e
M yr i s t y l M y r i s t a t e
D o w
Corning C344
G l y c e r o l Mono S t e a ra t e
C e t y l A l c o h o l
Span
65
R762D
I s o p r o py l P a l m i t a t e
Dow Corning 344
S t e a r y l A lc oh o l ( A l f o l
Procedure :
Stick Formulation
18)
W B
20
43
18
16
2 . 5
0 . 5
W
20
40
18
16
3
2 . 5
0 . 5
W B
15
45
15
25
The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mi xe d and h e a te d u n t i l t h e y f o r m a c l e a r
s o l u t i o n . C loud p o i n t o f t h i s s t i c k i s 76C.
I t
c a n b e po u red a t
65C.
A n t i p e rs p i r an t S t i c k :
aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e ( p a r t i c l e s i z e 1 2) and mi x i n h o t .
Perfume i s added j u s t p r i o r t o p o u r i ng .
D e o d o r a n t S t i c k :
1%
j u s t p r i o r t o p o u r i n g .
SOURCE:
A1
1
d S i g n a l I n c .
:
Suggested Formul a t ns
For a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k t o t h i s base f o r m u l a t i o n add 25%
F or d eo do ra nt s t i c k t o t h i s b ase f o r m u l a t i o n , add de od ora nt
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Section IIBaby Products
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16 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Bath
A. M a r l i n a t 2 42/28
M a r l i n a t CM 1 0 5
Ampholyt JB 130
Mar lamid
M
1218
Water
B.
Camomile Special
Avocado Specia l
Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Magnesium sulphate x 7H20
%
2 0 . 0
1 2 . 0
2 . 0
t o 1 00 .0
0 . 5
1 . o
qs
qs
qs
22 o
P r e p a r a t i o n :
The components under
A .
a r e a dde d to g e th e r i n seq ue nce,
warmed and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The components i n B .
a r e added t o A a t a p p r ox . 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .
Baby Bath
Ma r l a t 242 /28
Ampholyt JB 130
M a r l i n a t SL 3/40
D i o n i l
O C / K
L i me B1 ossom Sp ec i a1
Camomi l e Spec i a1
Perfume
C o l o u r
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Water
%
21 o
1 7 . 0
8 . 0
3 . 0
0 . 5
0 . 5
q s
qs
qs
t o 10 0. 0
P r e p a r a t i o n
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: H u l s A m er ic a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o sm e ti c s:
The components a r e m ixe d to g e th e r i n sequ ence a nd s t i r r e d
Su g g e s te d F o rm u la t i o n s
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Baby Products
17
Baby Lotion Mousse
Phase A :
I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS
Pol awax
Crodaco l
S - 9 5
Crodamol PMP
Crodamol PTC
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1
P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r o l at u m
D i me t hi c on e 35 c s ( 2 0 0 f l )
Phase 6 :
Wate r , de ion ized
G1 y c e r i ne
Germaben
I 1
( W / W )
1 .17
1
. o o
0 .3 3
O O
0 .6 7
1 - 0 0
2 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
83.33
8 . 0 0
1
. o o
Procedure :
S low ly add B t o A w i t h m i x i n g . C o o l . F i l l i n t o a e r os ol
c o n t a i n e r s and a dd p r o p e l l a n t (pH 5 . 7 ) .
Combine A and hea t t o 75C. Combine 5 and h ea t t o 75C.
F i l l r a t i o : C on c e n t r a te 95%, Pro p e l l a n t A3 1 5%.
Baby Oil
I n g r e d i e n t s :
1 .
C a r n at i o n, L i g h t Mi n e ra l
O i
1
NF
2 . R i t a l a n
3 . R i t a c e t y l
4 . Propy lpa raben
5 . Perfume
Q S I O O .
00
5 . 0 0
2 . 5 0
0 . 1 0
QS
M a n u fa c tu r i n g P ro ce d u re :
Weigh and add a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a c o n t a i n e r and b e g i n
s t i r r i n g wh i l e warming, u n t i l a l l i n g r e d ie n t s wh ich a re s o l i d s a t
amb ien t tempera tu res have me l t ed ( app rox ima te l y 55C) . S t i r u n t i l
co m p le te l y homogeneous an d b e g in co o l i n g . S t i r co n t i n u o u s l y ,
a l l o w
t o
r em ai n un d i s t u r b e d f o r 2 4 h o u r s , and f i l t e r .
Baby Oil
I n a r e d i e n t s :
1 . C a r n at i on , L i g h t M i n e r a l
O i
1 NF
2 . R i t a l a n C
3. Perfume
4 . Propy lpa raben
Q S l O O . 00
1 . o o
OS
0 . 1 0
Manu fac tu r ing Procedure :
3 and 4 and m ix u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n o c c ur s . F i l t e r ,
i f
nece ssar y, and package f i l l i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a in e r s .
SOURCE: Wi tc o Cor p. : Petr o leum Sp e c i a l t i e s Group: SuggeOted
Weigh and add #1 i n t o a c o n t a i n e r a nd b e g i n s t i r r i n g . Add
# 2 ,
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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8 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Shampoo
Th is baby shampoo fea tu r es Crovo l A-70 and C r o su l t a i n e C-50,
n a t u r a l d e r i v e d s u r f a c t a n t s w hi ch g i v e t h i s f or mu la i t s m i l dn es s.
U s in g a f r a g r a n c e w i t h a b a b y- f r e sh f f s m e l l adds t o i t s ap pe al .
I n q r e d i e n t s :
P a r t A :
SLES
( 3
mole) 2 0 . 0
Cr os u l ta in e C-50 (Cocamidopropy l Hy d r oxy su l ta i ne ) 1 2 . 0
Deion ized Water
51 .3
P a r t B :
Cr ov ol A-70 (PEG-60 Almond G ly c er id es ) 15. 0
C r o t h i x * (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 0 . 5
P a r t C:
P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l ( an d) D i a z o l i d i n y l U rea ( a nd ) M et h yl
Paraben (and ) Pr op yl Paraben** 1
. o
F lo r a s y nt h A65697 (Powder Type) 0 . 2
Procedure :
Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t
A
w i t h m i x i n g . Combine t h e
i n g r e d i e n t s o f Pa r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e at t o 65C. Add Pa r t B
t o P ar t A w i t h m i x i n g. Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C i n d i v i d -
u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH
i f
needed wi th
a
10% HC1 aqueous
s ol u t i o n. Coo l w i t h m i x i ng t o d e s i r e d
f
1 tempera tu re .
pH: 7.0 -0.5
Viscosi ty : 5 ,OOOcps+- lO% (@25C)
**Germaben
I 1
N . A . T . C .
Approved
*The use o f C r o t h i x i n c o sm e ti c and o t h e r f o r m u l a t i o n s i s
covered under U . S . P a t e n t 5 , 1 9 2 , 4 6 2 .
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t l o n SH-86
Baby Shampoo
Mackadet BSC (Baby Shampoo Concentrate)
M a cks ta t
DM
(DMDM Hyd a n to i n )
C i t r i c A c i d t o
p H
=
6 .5 -7 .0
Sod ium Ch lo r ide qs t o v i s c o s i t y = 2000 cps
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Wei a h t ,%
20 .0
q . s .
100.0
Procedure :
1.
Add Ma cks ta t BSC
to
wa te r and h e a t t o 4 0 degrees C .
2 . Add Mackstat DM.
3 . A d ju s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d and v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .
4 .
Add dye , f r ag ra nc e and co o l t o room tem pera tu re .
SOURCE: Mc In t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested Fo rm u la t ion
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Baby Products
19
Baby Shampoo
A .
M a r l i n a t CM 105
Ma rl a t 243/28
Amphol y t JA 140
Glucamate
DOE
120
Water
0 Lime-b lossom Specia l
Camomi l e Sp eci a1
Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Wt%
5 5 . 0
14.0
7 . 0
qs
t o 100 .0
P r e p a r a t i o n
T h e c o n s t i t u e n t s
of
A . a re b ro u g h t t o g e th e r i n sequence a nd
s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s
o f
B.
a r e
added t o A . a t a pp ro x.
3 0 C .
The pH i s a d j us te d t o
5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .
Baby Shampoo
Ma r l a t 242 /28
Amphol
yt
JA 140
Ampholyt J B 130
S o f t i g e n 767
Lamepon
S
Camomi 1e Sp ec i a1
L i me-bl ossom Sp ec i a1
P r e s e r v a t i v e
A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d
Water
Wt%
2 9 . 0
7 . 5
10 . 0
3 . 0
5 . 0
1 . o
1 . o
qs
q s
t o 100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n
The components a r e m i xe d to g e th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
u n t i l homogeneous. The
p H
i s a d j u s t e d t o
5.5 6.5.
SOURCE: H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s
f o r
Cosmet ics : Formulas
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2 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Shampoo
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A Tween 20
Cocoamphodiacetate
S od i um l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
P E G - 1 50 d i s t e a r a t e
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
Water
B * C i t r i c a c i d
* q . s t h e se n g r e d i e n t s
%w/w
6 . 0 0
6 . 0 0
3.00
3 . 0 0
4 . 0 0
3 . 0 0
75 . 00
Procedure :
A d j u s t pH t o
5 0
t o
5 . 5
w i t h ( B ) .
M i x ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and h e a t u n t i l homogeneous.
Baby Shampoo
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A G-4280
Sodi urn t r i d ec et h s u l f a t e
Laurarnphodi ac e t a t e
Cocamidopropy l hyd roxy su l t a i ne
Sodi urn 1 aur eth -13 ca rb ox yl a t e
Water
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
B PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e
C
* C i t r i c a c i d
* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w
2 0 . 0 0
12 .00
5 . 0 0
2 50
2 . 0 0
5 3 . 5 0
5.00
Procedure :
Heat t o a roun d 60C and add ( B ) and c o n t i n u i n g s t i r r i n g . When
c l e a r , c o o l and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 8 w i t h ( C ) .
SOURCE:
IC1
Su r fa c ta n t s : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
M i x ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and h e a t u n t i l homogeneous.
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Baby Products 21
Baby Shampoos
B 42/6:
Z e te so l
MS
Amphotensid
GB
2009
P u r t o n SFD
Wate r , pe rfume , sodium c h l o r id e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
0 42/7:
Z e te so l
MS
Zetesol 2056
Pu r to n CFD
Perfume
So d iu m ch lo r i d e
W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e
Baby Foam Baths
B
70/139:
Z e te so l MS
P u r t o n SFD
Water, per fume, sod ium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
25.0%
9 .0 %
2.0%
q s
t o make 100.0%
27.0%
7.0%
2 .0 %
0 . 3 %
2.0%
9 , s . t o make
100.0%
43.0%
1 .O
9 s . to make 100.0%
B 70/129:
Ex t r ak t 52 24.0%
P u r t o n SFD 1.0%
H e r b a l i q u i d K a m i l l e S p e z ia l 5 . 0%
Wa te r , p e r fu m e , p re se rva t i ve q . s . t o make 100.0%
Ad ju s tm e nt t o a p p ro x . p H 7 by l a c t i c a c i d o r c i t r i c a c i d
0 70/101 :
Amphotensid 9
M
40
0
Se ta c i n 103 Spez ia l 20 0 0
P u r t o n CFD 2.0%
M u l s i f a n RT 203/80
3.0
Oxypon 2145 1.0%
Water , per fume , p r es e r va t i ve q : s . t o make 100 .0%
SOURCE: Zschimmmer & Schwarz
GmbH
& C o . : Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions
Ad jus tment t o pH 6 . 5- 7. 0 by l a c t i c o r c i t r i c a c i d
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22 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Tear Free Baby Bath
Wei a h t ,%
Mackam 2C (Cocoam vh odi aceta te) 3 5 . 0
Mackol 70NS (Sodium La ur et h S u l f a t e ) 5 .5
Mackam 35HP (C oca mid opr opy l B e t a i n e ) 6 .0
Mackanate DC-30 (D is odi um Dimeth ic one C opo lyo l
S ul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 4 . 0
Mackam CET ( C e t y l B e t a i n e ) 1 . 5
Paragon (DMDM Hyd anto in (and) Methy l Paraben) 0 . 7
C i t r i c A c i d
9 s.
o pH 5.0-5.5
Water q . s . t o 1 00 .0
Procedure :
1 .
Ble nd components and he at t o 50C.
2 . When p ro du ct i s c l e a r a d j u s t pH t o 5 .0 -5 .5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d
pH: 5.3
V is c os i t y (cps , 25C) : 500 cps
Formula BN-l27C
Baby Wipes
Pr opy len e G1 yc ol
Mackam 2C (Co co am ph od ia ce ta te )
Paragon (DMDM Hydanto in (and) Methy l Paraben)
C i t r i c A c i d
q . s .
t o
F h g r a n c e
Water
q . s .
t o
Procedure :
1 . B l e n d components u n t i l c l e a r .
2. A d j us t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c id .
m i l d t o s k i n and e ye s.
T h i s s o l u t i o n i s combined w i t h baby w ip e t i s s u e s . t i s v e r y
M ild Ch ildren s Bub ble B ath
Mackana te EL (D isod ium La u re t h Su l fos ucc ina te )
Mackanate
CP
(D i s o d i um Cocami do
M I P A
S u l f o s u c c i n a t e )
Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (30%)
Natrosol 250HHR
M a cks ta t
DM
(DMDM H yda n to in )
Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o
Procedure :
1 . D i sp e rse Na t ro so l 250HHR i n co l d wa te r .
2. B l en d u n t i l c o m p le t e ly d i s p e s r se d .
3 . Heat t o
40
degrees
C .
and add re ma in in g components.
4 . B len d u n t i l c l e a r .
5. Cool and
f i l l .
SOURCE: Mc In t y re Group L td . : Pe rsona l Care Fo rmu la r y
Wei a h t ,%
4 .0
2 .0
q . s .
pH=6.0
q . s .
100.0
Wei ah t, %
10 .0
10.0
9 . 0
1 . o
q s
100.0
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Section III
Bath
and
Shower Products
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24 Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
Aerosol Bath
Oil
I n s r e d i e n t s :
A O l e y l a l c o h o l
At las G-1795
A l c o h o l , SDA No. 40
Perfume
15 .00
1
. o o
52 .00
2.00
B
Prop e l 1 a n t 12 /114 (57 /43) 30 .00
Procedure :
Cool t o
7 0 C
and add ( C ) . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and pou r w h i l e
s t i l l f l u i d .
Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 9OC. Add ( B) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .
Dispersible Bath Oil
I n a r e d i e n t s :
M i
n e ra l o i 1 , 81 a n do l
A c t i v e #4
B r i j
93
Foam s t a b i l i z e r , N i n o l
A A - 6 2
E x t r a
Perfume
6 0 0 0
20.00
13 .00
2 .00
5 . 0 0
Procedure :
F i 1 e r n e c es s a ry .
M ix a l l i n g r e d i e n t s . Use s l i g h t h ea t
i f
n ec es sa ry and s t i r .
Bath Gel
I n n r e d i e n t s :
NaCl
G-9600
*Co l o r
F rag rance
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Water
* q . s .
t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a tu r e .
Procedure :
SOURCE:
IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
35.00
0.80
0.20
0 .1 0
63.90
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Bath
and
Shower Products 25
Bath Gelee with Natural Lipid Protein
Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e
(60%)
Mackamide
CS
(Cocamide
DEA)
Wei a h t .
20.0
20.0
Mackanate
CP
(Disodium Cocamido
M I P A
S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 2 0 . 0
Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hy dro lyze d An imal P r o t e i n )
( N at u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n )
4 . 0
Macks ta t
DM
(DMDM H y d a n t o in )
qs
Water, Dye, Fragrance
qs
t o
100.0
Procedure :
1. Add Mackamide
CS
t o s odium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e and b l e n d .
2 . Add rem ai n in g components and heat t o
45
degrees C .
3 .
B l e nd u n t i l h omogenous and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 -7 . 0 w i t h
c i t r i c a c i d .
4 .
ool
and
f i l l .
Bath Gelee
Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%)
Mackamide
C
(Cocamide DEA)
Mackanate EL
( D i
sod i um Lau re th Su l f o su cc i na te )
L a c t i c A c i d t o pH
= 6 . 0 - 6 . 5
M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM Hy d a n t o i n )
Dye,
Fragrance,
qs
t o
Procedure :
1 .
Add components i n o r de r and hea t t o
45
degrees
C .
2 .
61 end u n t homogeneous.
3 .
A d j u s t
p H
w i t h l a c t i c a c i d .
4 .
Add f ra g ra nce and coo l t o room temp era tu r e .
Emollient Bath Gelee
Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e
(60%)
Mackamide LLM (Lauramide
DEA)
Weiqht
,
34.6
20.0
4 5 . 0
qs
100.0
Wei a h t
.
20 .0
20.0
Mackanate EL
( D i
sod i um Lau re t h Su l f o su cc i na te )
2 0 . 0
Mackanate
WGD
(D is odi um Wheatgermamido PEG-2
S ul f o s u c c i n a t e )
1 0 . 0
M a c k s t a t
DM
(DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) s
Water,
Dye,
Fra g ra n c e
qs
t o
100.0
Procedure :
1 .
Add Mackamide LLM t o sodium l a u r e t h su l f a t e .
2 . Add t h e rem ain ing components and heat t o
45
degrees C .
3 .
81 end u n t i 1 homogeneous.
4 . A d j u s t pH t o
6 . 5 - 7 . 0
w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
5 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE:
Mc In ty r e Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Care Form u la ry
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26 Cosmetic and Toile Formulations
Bath Milk
A . I m w i t o r
960
f l a k e s
M i g l y o l
812
M i g l y o l
840
M a r l o p h o r
T 1 0
Na Sa l t
6
G l y c e r o l
Water
C .
Ex tr ap on Hamamelis Spec.
Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
5 . 0
1 5 . 0
1 0 . 0
8 . 0
3 . 0
t o 1 0 0 0
1
. o
qs
qs
P r e p a r a t i o n :
h e a te d t o t h e same t e m pe r a tu r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n
A .
C . i s
added a t 30C.
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . ar e mixed and hea ted t o 75-8OC.
6
i s
Washing Lotion
M a r l a t
242/28
M a r l i n a t
CM
105
D i o n i l
OC/K
Mar lamid
PG 20
Perfume
Co l o u r
P r e s e r v a t i v e
NaCl
Water
6 . 0
3.0
3.0
q s
q s
qs
qs
t o
100.0
22
o
P r e p a r a t i o n
:
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: H u l s
Am e r i c a I n c .
:
F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o sm e ti cs :
The co mp one nts a re m i xe d t o g e t h e r i n seq ue nce an d s t i r r e d
Su g g e s t e d Fo rm u l a t i o n s
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Bath and Shower Products 27
Bath Oil, De Luxe with Plant Oils
A .
M i g l y o l
812
M i g l y o l
840
S o f t i g e n
767
S o f t i s a n
645
Soya be an o i l
Hos taphat
K L 340 N
Co l o u r
A n t i o x i d a n t s
Perfume
V i s c o s i t y : v e r y l o w - v i scous
15.6
15.0
10 0
10.0
37.0
13.0
q s
q s
qs
P r e p a r a t i o n :
temp era tu r e u n t i l homogeneous.
A l l t h e c om ponents a r e m i xe d t o g e t h e r and s t i r r e d a t room
Foam Bath with Almond Oil
A .
Mar lowet
OA 4/1
I s o p ro p y l m y r i s t a t e
Almond
o i l
G l y c e r o l
DAB
9
M ar la m id DF
1218
Water
C . Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
B .
M a r l i n a t
242/70
3 0 . 6
2 2 0
8 0
25.0
1 0 , o
3.0
t o
100.0
qs
as
P r e p a r a t i o n
:
Add pe r fume and p r es e r va t i ve a t 30C.
Heat
A .
and
B .
t o 70-75C. Add B . s l o w ly t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g .
Foam Bath Oil
A .
Mar lowet R
11/K
P i
ne-need1 e o i
1
B. M a r l i n a t
242/70
L i p o x o l
600 MED
Water
C.
P r e s e r v a t i v e
s/,
30.0
30.0
1 1 o
13.0
t o
100.0
qs
P r e p a r a t i o n
:
Add pe r fume and p r es e r va t i ve a t 30C.
SOURCE:
H u l s A me ric a I n c . : F o r m u l a ti o n s f o r C os me ti cs :
Heat
A .
and
B .
t o
7 0 - 7 5 C .
Add B. s l o w l y t o
A .
w i t h s t i r r i n g .
Sugge ted Formu la t i ons
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28 Cosmetic and
Toileoy Formulations
Bubble Bath Bath
Oil
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A
Fragrance 2991
H
I F F I n c .
Tween 20
Foaming age nt , Lan tha nol LAL
4.40
22 .20
10.00
B
Water , de i on i zed 62.20
C Foam s t a b i l i z e r , N i n o l AA-62 E x t r a
P r e s e r v a t i v e
1 - 0 0
0 .20
Procedure :
Add
( B )
t o ( A ) w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) w i t h s t i r r i n g
w i t h
s l i g h t h ea t t o f a c i l i t a t e s o l u t i o n when n ecessa ry . A d ju s t
t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t t o a pH o f l e s s t ha n 7 .0 w i t h an a c i d such as
c i t r i c . F i l t e r
i f
necessary .
Bubble Bath
I n s r e d i e n t s :
NaCl
S u l f o s u c c i n a t e
Frag rance
P r e s e r v a t i v e
*Co l o r
Water
G-9600
20 .00
0 90
7.00
0 . 2 0
0.10
71.80
*q.
s .
t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .
M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a tu r e .
Procedure :
Bubble
Bath
I n s r e d i e n t s :
A
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e l a u r y l s u l f a t e , M a pr p fo x TLS-500 20
IO0
Coc on ut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l a m i d e , Sup er Amide L-9 7.50
B
Perfume 5.00
C
W a t e r , d e i o n i z e d
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
57 .50
5.00
Procedure :
u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add (C) a nd s t i r .
SOURCE:
IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Warm
( A )
and m ix u n t i l c l e a r . C ool and add p er fu me , s t i r r i n g
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Bath
and Shower Products 29
Clear Gel
T h i s c l e a r g e l i s a c l a s s i c f o r m ul a t h a t i s based on Vo lp o
a n d C r o d a f o s s u r f a c t a n t s . I t e x h i b i t s t h e r i n g i n g g e l phenom-
enon, c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f meny c l e a r m i cr o em u l si o ns . T h i s e f f e c t
i s ac hi ev ed b y a system o f w a te r , o i l and s u r f a c t a n t f o r m u la t e d
i n a r a t i o t h a t fo rms a r i g i d m i c e l l e s t r u c t u r e . The Vo lpos and
C ro da fo se s a r e use d a s c o - e m u l s i f i e r s . ( F o r l a b o r a t o r y p r e p a r a-
t i o n , a minimum b a t c h s i z e o f 400 grams i s recommended becau se
t h e y co o l s l ow e r , a l l o w i n g more t i m e b e f o r e t h e s e t p o i n t
t e m pe r at u re i s r e a ch e d ).
I n g r e d i e n t s :
P a r t
A :
Dei o n i z ed wa t e r 5 4 . 0
P r o py l en e G l y c o l 1 2 . 0
P a r t B :
Crod afos N3 N e ut ra l (DEA Ol et h- 3 Phosphate)
2 . 0
Cr oda fos N10 N e ut ra l (DEA Ole th- 10 Phosphate) 4 . 0
Vo lpo 5 ( O l e t h - 5 ) 4 . 0
Vo l p o 3 (O l e t h -3 ) 7 . 0
M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 17 .0
Procedure :
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 9 0-95C.
Add Par t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i ng and c o o l t o d e s i r e d
f i l l
temp-
e r a t u r e ( a bo ve s e t p o i n t ) . S e t p o i n t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 85C.
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t
A
w i t h m i x i n g an d h e a t t o 9 0-95C.
N.A.T.C. Approved
Formula CG-8R
T h i s f o r m u l a u se s an o p t i m i z e d c o m b in a t i on o f C r o s u l t a i n e
High Foaming Shower Gel
C-50, In c r o d e t TD-7C and SLES (3 mole) t o prod uce a c l e a r ,
h i g h f oa m in g , l o w c o l o r , and l o w o d o r b a t h an d shower g e l .
C r o t h i x i s u sed t o p r o v i d e t h e b ody and v i s c o s i t y seen i n t h e
f o rm u la , and C r o vo l A-70 i s us ed t o s o l u b i l i z e t h e f r a gr a n c e a nd
m a in t a i n t h e c l a r i t y o f t h e p r o du c t .
I n q r e d i e n t s :
P a r t
A :
SLES ( 3 mo le )
2 0 . 0
I n c r o d e t TD-7C ( T r i d e c e t h - 7 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d ) 7 . 0
Cr o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Co ca m i do p rop y l Hy d ro x y s u l t a i n e )
2 0 . 0
D i s o d i um EDTA 0 .1
D e i o n i z e d w a t er 4 8 . 3
Germaben
I 1
1 . o
P a r t B :
C r o t h i x (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 1 . o
C ro vo l A-70 (PEG-60 Almond G ly c e r id e s )
2 . 0
BHT 0 . 1
P a r t
C :
Perfume (BBA 860753)
0 . 5
Procedure :
o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-7OC. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g an d
c o o l t o 50C. Add Pa r t C t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . When c l e a r , add
P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m ix i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h 10% NaOH s o l u t i o n .
S O U R C E :
C r o d a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Combine n g re d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h
m i
x i ng . Combi ne i n g r e d ie n ts
Formula BP-41
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3 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Foam Baths Clear
0 70/136:
Z e te so l N L
Pu r to n SFD
Water, per fume, sodium c h lo r id e ,
B 70/123:
Zetesol 2056
Pu r to n CFD
Wate r, pe r fume, sod ium c h l o r id e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
p r e s e r v a t i v e
46.0%
2.0%
q . s
t o make 100.0%
27.0%
2.0%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
B 70/117:
Ze te so l 856T 35 0%
Se t a c i n 103 Sp e z ia l 5 .0 %
Oxypon 2145 2.0%
Water , pe r fume, sod ium ch lo r i de ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
q . s .
t o make 100.0%
0 70/148:
Zetesol 2056
Oxypon 288
Perfume
W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e
40.0%
2.0%
1 . 5 %
q . s . t o make 100.0%
B 70/161:
Zeteso l 856 T 35.0%
Oxypon 328 4.5%
J o jo ba o i l 0.5%
Pu r to n CFD 2.0%
Perfume 1
.O
W ater , so dium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%
Foam Baths Pearlescent
B 71/16:
Zetesol 2056
P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75
Perfume
So d iu m ch lo r i d e
W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e
871
4 :
Zetesol 856T
Se ta c i n 1 0 3 Sp e z ia l
P e r g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055
Oxypon 2145
Water , pe rfum e, p re se rv a t i v e
27.0%
3.0%
0.8%
2.5%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
37.0%
6.0%
7.5%
3.0%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . : Suggested Formula t ions
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Bath
and Shower Products
31
Herbal Foam Bath
A . M a r lo n PS 65
Mar l a t 242/28
D i o n i l
O C / K
Ampholyt J B 130
M a r l i n a t
CM
105
Water
B.
Perfume
Ex t ra p o n 3 -Sp e c i a l
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Co l ou r
NaCl
5 . 0
3 5 . 0
3 . 0
1 0 . 0
9 . 0
t o 1 00 .0
q s
2 . 0
q s
q s
q s
P r e p a r a t i o n
:
s t i r r e d wh i l e warmed u n t i l homogeneous. The components under
6
a r e added t o t h o s e o f A . a t a b ou t 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o
The components under A . a r e m i xe d t o g e t h e r i n s eq ue nce a nd
5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .
Foam Bath, Transparent
Ma r l a t 242 /28
M a r l i n a t
SL
3/40
Mar lam id
DF
1218
Magnes ium su lphate
Perfume
C o l o u r
P r e s e r v a t i v e
NaCl
Water
x 7H20
1 0 . 0
2 . 0
0 . 5
q s
qs
q s
q s
t o 1 00 .0
3 5 . 5
P r e p a r a t i o n
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH
i s
a d j u s te d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .
SOURCE:
H u l s A me ric a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet i cs :
The com ponents a r e m i xe d t o g e t h e r i n s eq ue nce a nd s t i r r e d
Suggested Formu l a t i ons
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3 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Mild Shower Gel
Ma r l a t 242 /28
M a r l i n a t DFN
30
Ampholyt JB 130
Lamepon
S
Camomi l e Spe ci a1
Perfume
C o l o u r
P r e s e r v a t i v e
A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d
Water
P r e p a r a t i o n
The components
u n t i l homogeneous
2 2 . 0
6 . 0
1 6 . 0
5 . 0
2 . 0
q s
q s
q s
q s
t o 10 0.0
a r e m ix ed to g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
.
The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 .5 .
Shower Bath Gel with Pearl Lustre
Mar l na t 242 /28
M a r l i n a t CM
1 0 5
M a r l i n a t
S L
3/40
D i o n i l
O C / K
M ar l am id PG20
Pantheno l
Perfume
C o l o u r
P r e s e r v a t i v e
NaCl
Water
Procedure :
u n t i l homogeneous.
The components
4 3 . 0
1 0 0
5 . 0
3 . 0
3 . 0
0 . 2
q s
q s
q s
q s
t o 10 0.0
a r e m i xe d t o g e t h er i n s equence and s t i r r e d
The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .
Clear, Mild to the Skin Shower Bath
Ampholyt JB 130
Mar l n a t 242/28
M a r l i n a t
S L
3/40
D i o n i l
O C / K
Perfume
C o l o u r
P r e s e r v a t i v e
NaCl
Water
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous.
The components
1 8 . 0
1 4 . 0
11 - 0
1 . 5
q s
q s
qs
q s
t o 10 0.0
a r e m i xe d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .6 - 6. 5 .
SOURCE: H u l s A m er ic a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s
f o r
Cosmet ics :
Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
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Bath and Shower Products 33
Refreshing Shower Gel
M a r l i n a t
CM
105
M a r l i n a t
D F K
30
Ampholyt JB 130
D i o n i l
O C / K
Rosemary Specia l
S t i n g i n g N e t t l e S p ec ia l
Hamamel i s Sp eci a1
Marlowet R40/K
Menthol
Perfume
Co l o u r
P r e s e r v a t i v e
A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d
Water
3 2 0
1 7 . 0
1 1 . 5
2 . 0
0 5
0 . 5
0 . 5
1 . o
0 5
qs
qs
qs
qs
t o
1 0 0 . 0
P r e p a r a t i o n
u n t i l homogeneous. The
p H
i s a d j u s t e d t o
5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
The components a re mixed to g et he r
i n
sequence and s t i r r e d
Shower Gel
M a r l n a t
2 4 2 / 2 8
M a r l i n a t
S L
3/40
Ampholy t
J A
140
D i o n i l
O C / K
P e r fume
Co l o u r
P r e s e r v a t i v e
NaCl
Water
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o
5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: H u l s
A me ric a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o sm et ic s:
The components a r e mixed to ge th e r
i n
sequence an d s t i r r e d
Su g g e s t e d Fo rm u l a t i o n s
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34 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower Bath for Everyday Use
Mar l a t 242/28
M a r l i n a t
CM
105
Ampholyt J B 130
D i o n i l
O C K
Mar lamid PG 20
Panthenol
V i tamin F
Perfume
Co lou r
P r e s e r v a t i v e
NaCl
Water
3 5 . 0
1 6 .0
8 . 0
2 . 0
1
. o
0 1
0 . 1
qs
qs
qs
qs
t o 1 0 0 . 0
Pre p a r a t i o n
:
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s te d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .
The componen ts a r e mixed to ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Mild Foam Bath
Mar l a t 242/28
M a r l i n a t CM
105
D i o n i l
O C / K
I v y S pe ci al
Rosemary Special
Perfume
Co lou r
P r e s e r v a t i v e
NaCl
Water
18.0
30.0
3 0
0 . 3
0 . 1
qs
qs
q s
qs
t o 1 0 0 0
Pre p a ra t n
:
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 -6 . 5 .
SOURCE:
H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a ti o n s
f o r
Cosmet ics :
The components a r e m ixed to ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions
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0 75/26:
Zetesol 2056
Se ta c i n 1 03 Sp e z ia l
Purton CFD
Perfume
So d iu m ch lo r i d e
W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e
Bath and
Shower
Products
35
Shower Baths, Clear
25.0%
9.0
1.0
1 O
2.5%
q s t o make 100.0%
0 75/5:
Ze teso l 856 T 21 -5 %
Amphotensid G 0 2009 8.0%
P ur to n SFD 2.0%
Oxypon 2145 1 .0 %
Perfume 1 .O
Water , p re s e rv a t i v e , sod iu m c h l o r i d e q . s . t o make 100.0%
Shower Baths, Pearlescent
0 75/6:
E x t r a k t 5 2
P e r l g 7 a n z m i t t e l GM 4055
Purton SFD
Water , pe r fu m e, p r e s e r va t i ve
42.0%
5.0%
2.0%
q s
t o make 100.0%
0 75/27:
Ze te so l 2056 27.0%
P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l
GM
4175 4.0%
P u r to n CFD 2.0%
Oxypon 2145 1 .O
Perfume 1 .O
Sodium c h l o r i d e , w a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e q s t o make 100.0%
0
75/56:
Zeteso l 856 T
P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055
O xe ta l VD 20
Oxypon 2145
Perfume
W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e
22.0%
5.0%
2.0%
1 .O
1 O
q . s . t o make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschimrner
8
Schwarz GmbH & G o . : Suggested Formula t ions
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36 Cosmetic
and Toiletry Formulations
Shower Gel Cleanser
A g e n t l e fo a mi ng g e l c l e a n s e r d e si gn e d t o t h o r o u g h l y deep
c le an se and r e f r e s h t h e s k i n w i th o u t d i s t u r b i n g t h e s k i n ' s
n a t u r a l m o i s t u r e b al an c e.
In a r ed ie n t /T ra de Name: by We igh t
P a r t
A :
Dei o n i zed Water
Po lyquatern ium-10
C i t r i c A c i d
Te t ra so d i um
EDTA
Methy lparaben
Sodi um
P C A / A j
ew N-50
P a r t :
Sodi um L a ur e t h S u l f a t e
TEA-Cocoyl G lu ta m at e/ Am is of t CT-12
Cocami dop rop y l Be ta ine
PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e
Laurami de DEA
P a r t
C :
Fragrance/# IY-67
M e t h y l c h l o ro i s o t h i a z o l one and M e t hy l o t h i a z o l o ne
P a r t D :
So d i u m Ch l o r i d e
Procedure :
50.150
0
*
200
0.100
0.100
0 . 1 5 0
0.500
30 .000
10.000
5.000
0.700
2.000
0.250
0 .050
0.800
D i s p e rs e Pol ym er J R-125 i n d e i o n i z e d wa t e r . Hea t t o 70C.
Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add p a r t B
i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M ix a t 70C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y h omogeneous.
Coo l t o 40C. Add p a r t
C .
M i x w e l l . Add p a r t D as needed t o
c re as e v i s c o s i t y C o n t i nue
m i
x i ng and co ol g t o 35C.
App ea ra nc e: C l e a r l i q u i d / p H : 5 . 2 0 -5 . 7 0 / V i s c o s i t y : 4 ,0 00 -6 ,0 00 c ps
Bath Crystals
A g e n t l e m i l k y b a th c r y s t a l f o r m u la t i o n t h a t
w i l l
r e l a x y ou r
senses w i t h t h e aroma o f t h e h o t b a t h s o f J ap an . t w i l l l e a v e
y o u r s k i n c l e a n and smooth w h i l e t a k i n g y o u r m i nd t o f a r and
e x o t i c p l ac e s .
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Sod ium Ch lo r i de
Cocoy l G lu tamate /Amiso f t
CA
Fragrance/Takasago
Cabosi l M-5
by Weight
8 6 . 0 0
7
I O 0
1 . 5 0
0 . 5 0
B l e nd i n g r e d i e n t s 1 ,2 ,3 . P re mix i n g r e d i e n t s
4
and 5. Add
p re m i x t o p re - b l e n d a nd mi x u n t i l homogeneous and u n i f o rm .
SOURCE:
A j i n o m o t o USA, Inc.: Su g g e s t e d Fo rm u l a t i o n s
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Bath and Shower Products 37
Silky
Bath Gel
R ho di ge l i s used as a t h i c k e n e r and foam s t a b i l i z e r f o r t h i s
s i l k y ba th ge l fo rm ul a . Vansea l NALS-30 p ro v i de s foam enhancement
and s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s . The c oc oa mi do pr op yl b e t a i n e
and sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e s u r f a c t a n t s p r o v i d e good c l e a n i n g
and r i n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s f o r t h i s f o r m u l a . The g l y c e r i n a nd PPG-3
m y r i s t y l e t h e r a r e e m o l l i e n t s wh ich c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e e le g an t
a f t e r f e e l .
I n q r e d i e n t
:
A
Rhodige l
De io ni zed Water
G1
y c e r i n
B
Vanseal NALS-30
Cocoami dop rop y l be ta
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a
C
PPG-3 m y r i s t y l e t h e r
P r e s e r v at i v e , c o l o r ,
( 2 )
L e x a i n e
C
( 3 ) S i p o n
ES-2
4 )
Promyr is ty l PM-3
P r e p a r a t i o n
ne
( 2 )
e (3 )
4 )
f r a g r a n c e
‘YO
bv
W t .
0 . 5 0
5 5 . 0 0
1 . o o
8 . 0 0
1 6 . 0 0
1 6 0 0
3 . 5 0
q . s
Add Rh od ige l t o t h e wa te r s l o w l y , w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t h i g h
shear . Rhod ige l
w i l l
become u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d t h r o u g h ou t
t h e w a te r and t h i c k e n i n g w i l l b e g i n .
A t
t h i s t i me , a d j u s t t o
g e n t l e m i x i n g . G e n t l e , u n i f o r m m i x i n g w i l l s o l u b i l i z e t h e
R h od ig e l i n t i m e and w i l l a l s o m i n i m i z e a i r e n t r a p m e n t. Add
g l y c e r i n and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add A t o 50C and h o l d t h i s
t e m p e ra t u re whi l e a d d i ng re ma i n i ng ng re d i en ts . Add B gred-
i e n t s i n o rd er u s in g g e n t le m i x i n g t o a v o id a i r e nt r ap me nt .
A d d i t io n o f
C w i l l
t h i c k e n f o rm u l a t o a ge l c o n s i s t e n c y .
C o ns is te n cy : F lo w ab le g e l . ( V i s c o s i t y :
8 0 0 0 - 1 0 0 0 0
c p s )
Su gg e st ed Pa c ka g in g : Squeeze b o t t l e o r t u b e .
Comment
s
development
o f
new produc ts
o r
im pro ve me nt o f e x i s t i n g o ne s.
S O U R C E R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : F or mu la No.
4 2 9
T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m ul a i s de sig ne d t o s e rv e as a g u id e f o r t h e
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38
Cosmetic
and
Toiletry
Formulations
Water White Shower Gel
Sandopan DTC ac id , used as t h e secondary s u r f a c t a n t , c o n t r i b -
u t e s t o t h e m i ld n e ss o f t h e s u r f a c t a n t s yste m. V els an P8-3 i s
an e m o l l i e n t e s t e r t h a t adds a v e l v e t y f e e l t o
c r y s t a l c l e a r , w a t er w h i t e shower g e l - h a s good
fo am ing c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .
t h e s k i n . T h i s
v i s c o s i t y and
m r e d i e n t s :
Standapol ES-3
Sandopan DTC A c i d
Lauramide
DEA
Velsan P8-3
Glucamate DOE-120
Germaben
I 1
Versene NA
Fragrance
Deion ized Water
Procedure :
Phase
A :
H vd ra te Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene
41 .2 5
10.00
3 . 3 0
2
. o o
1
. 7 0
1 . o o
0.10
0 . 0 5
q s
NA
i n a l l o f t h e
d e i o n i z e d w a t e r .
a d j u s t pH t o
6 . 0 .
Phase
B
Add rem a in ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o rd e r . Combine Phase A&B,
P r o p e r t
s :
Formulat ion CHS-51
V i s c o s i t y : 8500 c ps S o l i d s :
29.0%
pH: 6 . 0
Shower Gel
Sandobet SC a nd Sandopan DTC a c i d c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e m i l d n e s s
of
t h e s u r f a c t a n t sy ste m and add t o t h e f oa min g p r o p e r t i e s o f
t h e shower g e l . V e ls a n P8-3 i s an e m o l l i e n t e s t e r t h a t adds a
v e l v e t y f e e l t o t h e s k i n . T h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r shower g e l h as
good v i s c o si t y and fo am in g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Standapol ES-3
4 6 . 4 0
Sandobet
SC
10.00
Sandopan DTC A c i d 5 . 6 0
Laurami de
DEA
3.30
Velsa n P8-3 2. 00
Glucamate DOE-120
1 . 7 0
Germaben
I 1 1 . o o
Versene NA
0 . 1 0
Fragrance
0 . 0 5
Deio n i zed Wate r
q s
Procedure :
Phase
A :
H y d r a te Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene
NA
i n a l l
o f
t h e
Phase
B
Add rem a in ing i n g r ed ie n t s i n o rd e r . Combine Phase A&B,
Formulat ion CHS-52
SOURCE: Sandoz Chemica ls Co rp . : Sugges ted Fo rm ul a t i on s
d e i o n i z e d w a t e r ,
a d j u s t pH t o
6 . 0
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Section
IV
Beauty
Aids
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40 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aloe Vera Skin Freshner
I n p r e d i e n t s :
A . D e i on i zed w a te r
S t e a r i c a c i d t r i p l e p ressed
G l y c e r o l
Percen t
49.50
18.00
5.00
B . Po ta ss i um hy dr o xi de 1 . 2 0
C . D e i on i zed w a te r
Veragel 200 powder
5 .00
0.25
D . W i tc h H azel E x t r ac t 25.80
Procedure:
Heat Par t A t o 70C. w i t h s t i r r i n g . S lo w ly add P a r t B t o
P a r t
A .
Cool t o 40C. w i t h s t i r r i n g . Combine P a r t C and add t o
P a r t
A
a n d P a r t
B.
Add Par t D w i t h s t i r r i n g , c oo l t o 25C.
Package a t room tem per atu re .
Powder Mask Activator
I n a r e d i e n t s : P e r c e n t
De ion ized Water 95 .3
Croquat
M
(Cocodimonium Hydro l yzed An ima l P ro te in ) 0 . 5
Incronam AL-30 (Almondami dop rop y l Be ta in e) 0 .5
Honey 1.2
A l o e V e ra g el L i q u i d 1
. o
L i p o f u i t Cucumber 0.5
Germaben
I 1
1 . o
Procedure :
Dissolve Germaben
I 1
i n wa te r . When un i fo rm , add Inc ronam
AL-30. N ex t d i s so l v e a l o e , honey and cucumber ex t r a c t . M i x w e l l .
Add Croquat
M.
A d j us t pH t o pH 4 .2+ -0 .1 w i t h 10% T E A . Immed ia te l y
p r i o r t o a p p l i c a t i o n m ix t h e tw o components t o f o rm a t h i c k
pas te . Recommended use 1 : l r a t i o .
SOURCE: D r . M a d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
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Beauty Aids
41
Blemish/Scar Concealer
P r o t o p e t 1S P e t r o l a t u m
C a r n a t i o n
M i
n e r a l
O i
1
Oc ty l dodecano l
O z o k e r i t e
P heny l d i me th i cone
H yd ro ge na te d c a s t o r o i l
S y n t h e t i c r e s i n
P ropy l pa raben
A n t i o x i d a n t
T a l c
C1 ay
S i l i c a
T i t a n iu m d i o x i d e
I r o n
o x i d e s
Skin Cleanser with Porous Cellulose Particles
Beeswax
P a r a f f i n
P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m
C a r n a t io n M i n e r a l O i l
S o r b i t a n S e sq u io l ea t e
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n m o n o o l e a t e
Water
Fragrance
Porous C e l l u l o s e p a r t i c l e s
9 .80%
1 6 0 0
6 0 0
2 . 5 0
1
6 0
2 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
0 . 2 0
0 . 1 0
8 . 0 0
8 . 0 0
0 . 3 0
41 . O O
4 . 0 0
3 . 0 0 %
5 . 0 0
15.00
41 - 0 0
4 . 2 0
0 . 8 0
2 5 . 0 0
1 . o o
5 . 0 0
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o le u m S p e c i a l t i e s Gro up: S ug ge st ed
Formul a t ons
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42 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Body Scrub
I n g r e d i e n t s :
( 1 ) Benton i te (NF g rade)
( 2 )
Dei on i zed Water
( 3 ) Beeswax
(4)
S p e r m a c e t i c , s y n t h e t i c
(5)
Sor b i t o 1 Monopa lymatate
( 6 )
P o l y s o r b a t e
60
( 7 ) C e t y l A lc o h o l
( 8 )
L i g h t M in e ra l O i 1
(9)
S i l t e x
-50 +lo0
Mesh
P r e s e r v a t i v e , C o l o r , & Perfume
%
bv Weight
3 . 0
6 0 . 2
1 . 4
1.4
3.3
3.3
2 . 8
1 8 . 6
6 . 0
q . s .
Procedure:
mix and hea t
(3),
(4),
( 5 ) ,
(6),
(7),
and
( 8 )
t o 80C. Add t o
w a t e r p ha se w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Slo w m i x e r and add ( 9 ) . Cool
b e f o r e f i l l i n g c o nt a in er s .
p roduc t used .
a b l e i n g r e d i e n t s .
D i spe rse ( 1 ) i n t o ( 2 ) and h e a t t o 70C. I n s ep a r a t e c o n t a i n e r ,
F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d b e us ed when h a n d l i n g flam m-
Body Powder
I n o r e d i e n t s :
%
bv Wei
Qht
( 1 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e
5 . 0
( 2 )
Z i nc Ox i de
5 . 0
( 3 ) Magnesium C arbona te ( l i g h t )
1 5 . 0
( 4 )
Kaopo l i te TLC
7 5 . 0
( 5 )
Fragrance, P igments ,
&
P r e s e r v a t i v e
q . s .
Procedure:
16 h o u r s . D r y m ix r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s .
used.
SOURCE:
K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : S uggested F o rm u l a t i on s
M ix f r a g r a n c e w i t h ( 3 ) and a l l o w t o s t a n d f o r a p p ro x im a t el y
F o l l o w recommended p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f e ach p r o d u c t
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Beauty
Aids 43
Cheek Rouge
Mat e r i a1s :
1 . M i n e r a l
O i l SUS
65/75
2. Ceraphy l 368
3 .
Castorwax
4. Beeswax
5 . Super Corona Lano l i n
6 . Lexgard P
7 . Bentone Gel M I 0 r h e o lo g i c a l a d d i t i v e
8 .
Pigment Concent ra te*
9 . Timiron Pearl Sheen MP-30
10 .T a l c 1623
11 .32 8 T i a n i um D io x id e CTFA
1 2 . C o l o r No. 7055 Pur Oxy Yel low B.C.
13 .Co lo r
No.
7153 Lo-Micron P i nk B.C.
14.Perfume
*P igment Concen t ra te :
C o l o r
No.
3121 D
& C
Red. No. 21
C a s t o r O i l
% by Weigh t
17.00
1 5 . 0 0
2.50
6 .00
10 .00
0.15
15 .00
3 . 0 0
4.00
18 .00
6 . 0 0
1 . 5 0
1 .50
0 . 3 5
3 0 . 0 0
70.00
M a n uf a ct u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . We igh i tem s 1 th r oug h 5 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j ac ke te d
2 . B r i n g t emp era tu r e down t o 80C. Add and m i x i n i t em
7
u n t i l i t
3. Add and mix i t e m 8 f o r 5 m in ut es o r u n t i l d i s pe rs ed .
4 . Add i tems 9 th ro ug h 13. Add each powder sep ar at e l y , mak ing
k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l m e l te d c l e a r .
i s homogeneous. M i x f o r 10 m i nu te s .
s u r e t h a t each pig me nt i s p r o p e r l y d i s p e rs e d b e f o r e t h e n e x t
a d d i t i o n .
5 .
Add i t e m 14 and mi x .
N o t e :
smooth, homogeneous f i n i s h e d p r od uc t .
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Formu la T S - 1 2 9
I t e m s 1 0 t h r o u g h 13 s h o u ld b e m i c r o p u l v e r i z e d t o a c h i e ve a
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44
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Concealing Stick
T h i s p r o d u c t c o v e r s f i n e f a c i a1 1 es and b l em i sh e s n a t u r a l y ,
l e a v i n g a f l e x i b l e b a r r i e r w hic h a l s o r e t a i n s m o i s t u re and
c o n d i t i o n s t h e s k i n . C er a B e l l i n a ( Pg -3 Beeswax) i s use d as a
p ig m en t d i s p e r s e r w h ic h makes t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n e a s i e r a nd t h e r e b y
a v o i d in g t h e expense o f m i l l i n g .
Phase A:
Cas to r O i l (Caschem)
P e t ro l a tum, W h i t e (W i t co )
S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen)
I so p r op y l P a l m i t a te (Un ichema)
Carnauba Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)
Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)
Jo jo ba Wax ( F l o r a Tech)
P a r a f f i n Wax 130/135 (Ko ste r Keunen)
O z o k e r i t e 1 7 0 (Koster Keunen)
Squa lane (Barne t )
V i t a m i n E (Roche)
Phase 8 :
Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Ko ste r Keunen)
T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r
C &
D )
Cosmet ic Tan I r o n Ox ide (Sun Chemica l )
Brown I r o n Ox ide (Sun Chemica l )
Phase
C :
L i q u i p a r ( S u t to n )
27.3%
22.0%
10.0%
6.0%
5.0%
5.0%
4.0%
1.5%
1.0%
1 .0%
0 .5%
9.0%
5 .0%
1.5%
0.2%
1
.O%
Procedure :
Heat and mix Phase B
t i l l
p i g m e n t s a r e e v e n l y d i s p e r s e d .
Weigh Phase A and i n d i v i d u a l l y add t o P hase B w h i l e m i x i n g .
Heat
AB
t i l l homogeneous, add Phase C, co ol and pour a t 60C.
A da pt io n o f f o rm u la and i t s i n f l u e n c e
on
t h e p r o d u c t :
By r e d u c i n g t h e wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n t h i s p r o d u c t c an b e
p o u re d i n t o a compact t r a y . L a rg e v a r i a t i o n s c an b e made i n
wax and o i l c o n ce n t ra t io n s t h a t a re i n co r po r a te d i n s t i c k
p r o du c ts and s t i l l p rod uce a s i m i l a r f i n i s h e d p r o d uc t .
SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Form u la t i on s
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Beauty Aids 45
Cream Eye Shadow
I n a r e d i e n t s :
( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e ( N F g r a d e )
( 2 )
C ar bo xy me th yl C e l l u l o s e ( l o w v i s c o s i t y )
( 3 ) Deion ized Water
( 4 ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e
( 5 ) P r o p y le n e G l y c o l
( 6 )
T r i
et ha no l ami ne
(7 ) K a op o l i t e TLC
( 8 ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( c o s m e ti c g r a d e )
( 9 ) I r o n O xid es ( c o s m et i c g ra de , f o r d e s i r e d
( 1 0 ) S t e a r i c A c i d
( 1 1 ) G l y c e r y l M o no s te a ra t e
( 12 ) Lanol
( 13)Sesame
O i
1
( 1 4 ) O l i v e O i l
( 1 5 ) I so p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e
( 1 6 ) F r a gr a n c e and P r e s e r v a t i v e
%
bv Weight
2 . 0
0 . 2
49.3
0 . 3
5 . 0
0 . 4
20 .0
5 . 5
c o l o r ) 4 .5
0 . 8
2 . 0
4 . 0
2 . 0
1 . o
3 .0
q . s .
Procedure:
c o n t i n u e t o d i s p e r s e . Sl o w l y add ( 4 ) , ( 5 ) , ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , ( E) , and
( 9 ) . C o n ti n ue m i x i n g a t h i g h speed u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Heat
t h i s m i x t u r e t o 65C and d ea e ra te . I n a s e pa r a te c o n t a i n e r m ix
( l o ) , ( l l ) , ( 1 2 ) , ( 1 3 ) , ( 1 4 ) , and ( 1 5) , and h ea t t o 70C u n t i l
u n i fo rm . Add t h i s m i x t u r e s l o w l y t o ( 1 - 9) w h i l e under a g i t a t i o n .
C o nt in u e t o m ix u n t i l c o o l . ( 1 6) can be added t o e i t h e r ( 1- 9)
m i x t u r e o r a t t h e end depend ing on t h e recommendations o f t h e
s u p p l r .
Fo l l ow recommended h an d l i n g p r a c t i c e s
o f
t h e su p p l i e r o f
each product used.
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d b e use d when h a n d l i n g
f lammab le g red i en t s .
M ix ( 1 ) i n t o ( 3 ) w i t h h i g h she ar u n t i l d i s pe r s ed . Add
( 2 )
and
Dry Powder Rouge Base
I n a r e d i e n t s :
( 1 L an ol i n Al c oh o l A c e ta t e
( 2 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e
( 3 ) Kaopo l i te TLC
(4) Magnes ium S teara te
( 5 )
F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e s , & Pigments
%
by Weiqht
4 . 0
6.0
88.0
2 . 0
q . s .
Procedure:
D ry m i x and p ress as re qu i r ed .
F o l l ow recommended hand l i ng p rac t i ces o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f e ach
p roduc t used .
SOURCE:
K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : S ug ge st ed
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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46 Cosmetic and Toilehy Formulations
Cream Facial Scrub
P a r t A :
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE*
M i n e r a l
O i l
Saf f 1ower O i 1
Sesame O i l
Squalene
D i o c t y l A d i p a t e ( an d) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d) O c t y l
P a lm i t a t e * *
S t e a r i c A c i d
C e t y l A l c o h o l
H y d ro x yp r o py l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e * * *
P a r t B :
Water
Aloe Vera Gel
Germaben I 1
P a r t C :
T r i
et ha no l ami ne
P a r t D:
Acuscrub 44
Procedure:
S e p a r a t e l y co mb in e P a r t
A
and Par t B i n g r e d i e n t s a n d
t o 8OC w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly a dd P a r t A t o P a r t
B
w i t h
a t i o n . Add P a r t C and b e g i n t o c o o l . A t 50C, moderately
A cu sc ru b 44 and s t i r u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m .
* Henkel/Emery (Eme rest 2407)
* *
Caschem (Wickenol 163)
*** Dow Chem ical Co. (M et ho ce l 40-100)
Wt%
5 . 0
5 . 0
1
. o
1 . o
1 . o
1 . o
2 . 5
0 5
0 5
68.7
1
. o
1
a
1 . o
1 0 . 0
h e a t
a g i t -
add
Oil-In-Water Cream and
ts
Scrub Derivative
%
2. S t e a r i c A c i d 0 . 5
3 . Lanogene ( l a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m in e r a l o i l ) 6 . 0
4 . I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e 12.5
5 .
S o r b i t a n M o no s te a ra te
1 . 3
6 . P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e 2 0 S o rb i t an Monosteara te 1
a
7 . S orbo ( s o r b i t o l 70%, w a te r 30%) 5 . 0
8 . Car bop ol 940 1 . o
9.
Germaben I 1
0 . 8
10. Water 68.35
11 . T r i e tha no l ami ne
0.75
12.Perfume Q . S .
Weigh 1 -6 , t hen w e igh 7-10 . H ea t 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n us i n g a
1 . A-C 617 P o l y e t h y l e n e 2 . 0
Procedure:
homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . When th e aqueous so l u t i o n reaches
8 5 C ,
h e a t o i l ph ase t o 90-95C
w i t h
s lo w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e wax
has d i ss o l ve d . Combine 1-10 and shear u n t i l m ix tu re i s homogen-
eous.
Add
11
and shear we l l . Cool t o 55C and add 12.
SOURCE: AlliedSignal Inc.: Suggested Formulations
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Beauty Aids
47
Cream-to-Powder Eye Shadow with Dry-Floc PC
D r y F l o c PC, a h i g h l y w at er r e s i s t a n t s ta r c h , p r o v id e s a
D e rm a cr yl LT p r o v i d e s w a te r r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e
s i l k y smooth e le g an t f e e l , and i s t a l c f r e e .
p r o t e c t i o n a s w e l l a s im p ro v ed c o v er a g e.
I n a r e d i e n t s : %w/w
Phase A :
Eutano l
G
13.00
Der mac ryl LT 1
. o o
Phase B :
M u lt iw ax W-835 0.30
Be nton e Ge l VS-5 PC 30 .00
Phase C:
M y r i t o l 318 3 .0 0
T r i v e n t SS-20 0. 50
Emerest 2452 4. 00
V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 0 . 1 0
I s o p a r
H
7.40
Cab-0-Si 1 TS-530 0. 50
Sp ec tr ap ea r l BLG 10.00
D ry -F l o PC 30.00
Phenoxyethanol 0 .20
Procedure:
t o BOC, mix u n t i l com plete . Add Phase 8, mix th or ou gh ly . Combine
Phase C . Add Phase C t o A / B mix thor ou gh ly . Cool t o room temp-
e r a t u r e .
Formula 8302-115
Phase
A,
s l o w ly s i f t D erm acry l LT i n t o O c t y l D o de ca no l, h e a t
Liquid Talc
T ap ioca F l o u r g i ve s a s o f t p owdery a f t e r f e e l and i s t a l c f r e e .
I n a r e d i e n t s :
SD Alc oh ol 40 (190 P ro o f)
Crodacol S-95NF
yU
54.00
0.75
V i t a m i n E
1 . o o
Dexpanthenol
1 . o o
Tween 80 0 .75
Fancol ALA
1 . o o
Esta lan 430
10.00
Dermol 89
6.00
Dermol 105
4.00
Ceraphyl 375
0.75
Ethomeen C-25
2.00
Carbopol 1382
0 .75
Tap ioca
18.00
Ethomeen C-25
q s pH 7.00
Combine a l l i n g r ed i e n t s excep t C a rbopo l 1382 and T ap i oca . M i x
w i t h good a g i t a t i o n u n t i l u n i fo rm . S lo w ly s i f t i n Carbopol 1382.
M ix u n t i l c o mp le te ly d i sp ersed . S i f t i n T ap ioca . M ix u n t i l u n i -
form. Add Ethomeen C-25 t o o b t a i n pH o f 7.0 package.
Form ul a 791 5-68
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chem ical Co. : Suggested Formulas
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48 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Creamy Eye Shadow
Ma te r i a1 s :
1 . I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e - D i s t i
2 . S t e a r y l A l c o h o l
3 . Beeswax
4. Ganex V-220
5 . Cyc lometh i cone
6 . S o l t r o l 100
7 . Hi-S i1 T-600
8 . Bentone Gel SS71 rh e o lo g
%
bv Weight
1 ed 2. 0
3 . 0
6 .0
5.0
3 .0
5 .0
0 . 8
c a l a d d i t i v e 45 .0
6 .0
. C hroma- l i t e D a rk B l ue
10 .50% 328 T i ta n i um D io x id e
CTFA Extended w i t h T a lc 141
1 1 .F1 amenco
V el ve t -1 00
1 2 , P r e s e r v a t i v e
20 .0
4.0
0 . 2
M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t o 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e .
2 . B r i n g t empera tu re down t o 65C. Add 5 and s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i ng
3 . Ma in ta in t empe ra tu re t o 65C. Add and mix i t em s 7 and 8 u s i n g
4. Add i tems 9 and 1 0. M ix t h o r o u gh l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n t o
5. Add i te ms 11 and 12 and mix f o r 5 minu tes .
6 . P ou r a t 62-63C j u s t be fo re i t s t a r t s c o ng e al in g .
Formula TS-249
Heat t o 70C u n t i l m e lt ed c l e a r .
t o a v o i d sudden c o o l i n g . M i x f o r 5 m i n ut e s.
a homomixer a t medium speed. Mi x u n t i l homogeneous ( lump f r e e )
d i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s u n i f o r m l y .
Waterproof Eye Liner
M a t e r i a l s :
1 . Beeswax
2. Ganex V-220
3 . S h e l l Sol 71
4 . B en tone Gel SS71 rh eo l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e
5 . P r e s e r v a t i v e
6 . C h roma- l i t e B l a ck
% bv Wei q h t
16 .5
5 . 0
35 .0
33.5
0 .2
9 .8
M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . Weigh i tems 1 and 2 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j ac ke te d k e t t l e .
Heat t o 70C and h o l d u n t i l m e lt ed c l e a r .
2 . B r i n g t empera tu re down t o 65C. Add i t em 3 s l ow l y , w h i l e
m i x i n g , t o a v o i d sudden c o o l i n g . M i x f o r 5 m in u t es .
3 . Ma i n t a i n t empera tu re a t 60C. Add and m i x i n i t em 4 us i n g a
homomixer a t medium speed. Mi x u n t i l homogeneous.
NOTE: A c l e a n chrome s p a t u l a d i pp e d i n t o t h e g e l mass
w i l l
show an even s u r f a c e sheen, w i t h no agglo mera tes when
p rope r1y
d i
spersed
.
4. Add i t em s 5 and 6 se pa ra te l y . M i x t ho rou gh l y a f t e r each
a d d i t i o n .
5 . P ou r a t 55-60C j u s t b e f o r e i t s t a r t s c o n g e a l i n g .
Formula TS-189
SOURCE:
Rheox, I n c . : Suggested Form u la t i on s
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BeautyAids 49
Creamy Matte Make UP Base
I n a r e d i e n t s :
(1 ) De ion ized Water
( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e ( N F grade)
( 3 ) C a rb o xy m et hy l C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y )
(4) Tamol N
( 5 ) P r op y le n e G l y c o l
( 6 ) Kaopol i te TLC
( 7 ) T i t a n i u m D i o x id e
(8) I r o n O xi de ( m i c r o n i z e d )
( 9 ) I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e
( 1 0 ) S o r b i t o l M o n o l a u r a t e
( 11 )P o l yso rb a t e 20
( 1 2 ) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l
13)Amerchol-L-l Ol
Perfume
&
P r e s e r v a t i v e
% bv Weiaht
54.20
3.00
0.50
0.30
5 .0 0
19.80
3 .70
1 .50
5.00
0 .75
2 .25
2.00
2.00
q . s .
Procedure:
M ix w i t h h i g h s he ar
( l ) ,
(2 ) , and
( 3 )
u n t i l w e l l d is pe rs ed
(a pp ro x i m at e l y 20 min ute s) . Add (41, (51, (61, (71, and
8 )
an d h e a t t o a p pr o x i m a te l y 60C. I n a se p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x
( 9 ) , ( l o ) , ( l l ) , ( 12 ) , and (13 ) and hea t t o 70C w h i l e m i x i n g .
Add t o t h e o t h e r m i x and c o n t in u e m i x i n g u n t i l c o o l .
each p roduc t used .
f l ammab le a re d i en t s .
F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be us ed when h a n d l i n g
- -
Liquid Make-Up
I n a r e d i e n t s :
( 1 ) Deion ized Water
( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e
( N F
arade)
%
bv Weiah
66.
I .
i
( 3 ) C a rb o xy m et hy l C e l l u i o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) 0 .5
( 4 ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 1 . o
(5) Tamol-N 0 . 4
( 6 ) Lexanol PG 900
5 . 0
(7 ) Ka op o l i t e TLC 7 .0
( 8 ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( c o s m e t ic g r a de ) 2 . 0
( 9 ) I r o n O x id e ( m i c ro n iz e d ) 1 . o
(10)Lexmul P 0 . 5
( 1 1 ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e
5 .0
( 12 )L e xa te I L 4 .5
1 3 ) S t e a r i c A c i d 2 . 0
( 14)M i n e r a l
O i
1 3 .0
P r e s e r v a t i v e & F rag rance q . s .
P rocedure :
d i sp e rs e u n t i l un i f o rm . Reduce speed and add (4 ) , ( 5 ) ,
(61,
(71,
(8 ) , and ( 9 ) . Heat t o 70C. I n a s ep a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , h e a t a nd m i x
( l o ) ,
( l l ) , (12) , (13) and ( 1 4 ) t o 70C. C o nt in u e m i x i n g u n t i l
d i s s o l v e d . Add t h i s t o t h e aq ue ou s p ha se . C o n ti n ue m i x i n g an d
c o o l t o 30C.
F o l l o w recommended ha nd l i n g p r a c t i c e s
o f
t h e s u p p l i e r
o f
each p roduc t used .
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d b e u s ed when h a n d l i n g
f 1ammab le i ng red ien ts .
SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s
D i sp e r se ( 2 ) i n t o ( 1 ) a t h j g h sp ee d. Add ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e t o
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5 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Creamy Roll-On Lip Gloss
Mater 1 s :
1 . Indopol H-100
2 . I s o p r o p y l a n 50
3 . P ropy l pa raben
4 .
Tenox
4
5 . B entone Gel LO1 R heo l og i ca l A d d i t i v e
6 .
Pigment Concent ra te*
7 . T im ir o n Super Red
8 . Perfume
*Pigment Concent ra te :
C as to r
O i l
C o l o r No. 3106
D&C
Red
No. 6
%
bv Wei a h t
52 .0
2 4 . 5
0 . 1
0 . 1
20 .0
0 . 2
3 . 0
0 . 1
6 0 . 0
40.0
M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . Weigh i tems
1
t h r o u g h 4 i n t o
a
s t a i n l e s s steam ja c k e t k e t t l e .
2 . B r i n g t empera tu re down t o 75C; add and m i x i n i t e m 5 us i n g
3 . Add i t e m 6 and m i x f o r 5 m in u t e s o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d ; t h e n add
4 . C on t i nue m i x i n g a t medium speed and l ow e r t empera tu re t o 60C.
Heat t o 8 0 C and h o l d u n t i l m e l te d c l e a r .
homomixer a t medium speed. Mix f o r 10 min ute s a t 75C.
i t em 7 and m i x f o r ano the r 5 m i nu t es .
Add i tem
8 .
Remove he at and a l l o w mass t o come t o room temp-
e r a t u r e .
P igment C oncen t ra te P r ep a r a t i on :
1 .
Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e c a s t o r o i l u s i n g
a
slow speed
2 . G iv e t h i s c o n c e n t ra t e two passes ov e r a t h r e e r o l l m i l l a t
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested Formula T S- 190
H ob ar t t y p e mi xe r u n t i l u n i f or m .
room tempera tu re .
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Beauty Ai
51
Deep Extra Body Conditioner
T h is f o rm u la u t i l i z e s t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e H exane-
d i o l Behenyl Beeswax i n a s i l i c o n e o i l and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s
o f B ee 's M i l k .
Oil Phase A :
Em ul s i fy in g Wax NF (Koster Keunen)
S i l i c o n e O i l 245 (Dow)
S i 1 con e O i 1 556 (Dow)
Hexanediol Behenyl Beeswax (Koster Keunen)
L e c i t h i n
(Am.
L e c i t h i n )
L i q u a p a r ( S u t t o n )
Propy l Paraben (Su t ton)
Water Phase 0:
Carbopol 940 2% S o l u t i o n (BF Go odr ich )
Sod ium Laury l Su l fa te (DuPont )
T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow)
Cocamide (Croda)
S i l k Powder (Dasco)
M ar in e Dew (Aj i nor not o)
S i l k S o l u b l e L i q u i d (Dasco)
Water ( D i s t i 11 ed)
Methy l Paraben (Sut ton)
Phase C:
B ee ' s M i l k (K os te r Keunen)
Fragrance (Aroma Tech)
3 .0%
2.5%
2.0%
1 .O%
1 .O%
0.5%
0 . 2 %
10.0%
0.5
0.1%
0.1%
0 . 1 %
0.1%
0.1%
68.3%
0.3%
1 0 . 0 %
0.2%
Procedure:
M i x and heat wate r phase t o 70-75C. Me l t o i l phase and add
t o w at er phase a t 70-75C u nd er a g i t a t i o n . C o n ti n ue m i x i n g w h i l e
c o o l i n g . A t 40C add phase C and po u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r a t 35C.
A d a pt a t i o n o f f o rm u la a nd I t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t:
Changes i n t h e a c t i v e s and t h e c o n d i t i o n e r s a r e s t r a i g h t
f o rw a rd , s i mp l e rep l acements . Ga fqua t ' s w ou ld be a c l as s o f
c o n d i t i o n e r s w h i c h w o u l d
f i t
t h i s f or mu la w e l l .
SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested For mu l a t i o n
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52 Cosmetic and Toiletry
Formulations
Emoll ient Liquid Make-up
C on ce al s m in or s k i n i m p e r f e c t i o n s y e t m o i s t u r i z e s , g i v i n g
sk i n a so f t dewy f i n i s h . T h i s P roduc t has tr emendous endu rance
t hr ou gh ve ry v ig or o us a c t i v i t i e s .
Phase
A :
Xanthan Gum ( K e l c o )
C e l l u l o s e Gum (Aqua lon)
Water ( D i s t i l l e d )
T r ie thano lamine (Dow)
PEG 1450 (Un ion Carb ide)
Methy l Paraben (Su t ton)
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l (Dow)
P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G a l l a r d
&
S c h l e s i n g e r )
Phase
0:
T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r
C&D)
Brown I r o n Ox ide (Warner -Jenk inson)
Y e l l o w BC I r o n Ox i des (W arne r -Jenki nson )
Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)
C era B e l l i n a (K os te r Keunen)
Phase
C :
O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( B a r n e l )
S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow)
I sop rop y l P a l m i t a t e (U nichema)
Hydrogenated Castor O i l (Acme)
I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Un ich em a)
Jo j oba
O i
1 (J o jo ba Growers )
Propy l ene G1 yco l S te ar a t e ( I n o l ex )
P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( S u t t o n )
Procedure:
D i sp er se p igments i n th e Orange Wax and Cera B e l l
beaker w i t h a g l as s s t i r r i n s r od , a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y .
0.33%
0.23%
50.55%
0.70%
2 35%
0.28%
1.88%
0.47%
8.44%
2.35%
0.94%
6.10%
4.69%
6.57%
2 00%
6.10%
1.41%
1.50%
0.
1
0
na i n
Repea
s o- as -t o b r ea k- u p v i s i b l e a p p lo m e r a t io n s . M ix and h e a t t o
75C phase
C
u n t i l u n i f o r m , add t o phase B u n d e r a g i t a t i o n ,
m a i n t a i n i n g t h e t em p er at ur e t i l l homogeneous. Add t h e mi xe d
. - . . .
-
.
. . . - .
. .
94%
89%
28%
a
ana m el te d phase
B
ana c t o t n e m ixed and m e l t ed phase
A .
C on ti nu e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g , p ou r i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t
approx imate l y 50C.
A d ap t i on o f f o r m u la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
t u t e d i n m i no r a mounts s i n c e p r o d u c t s su ch a s t h e s e a r e sen-
s i t i v e t o s ma ll changes t h a t w i l l a f f e c t s t a b i l i t y .
SOURCE:
Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Sugges ted For mu la t i on
S un sc re en s, v e g e t a b l e o i l s and b ra n ch e d o i l s can be s u b s t i -
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Beauty Aids
53
Emulsion Makeup
P a r t A :
Amerchol L-1 01
Amer 1a t e
S t e a r i c a c i d , X X X
G l y c e r y l m on o st ea ra te , n e u t .
C a r n a t i o n
M i
n e r a l
O i 1
P a r t 8:
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
Water
T i t an iu m d i o x i d e , t a l c
&
pigments
P e r f u m e a n d p r e s e r v a t i v e
4 . 5 %
0 . 9
2 . 7
1 . 8
4 . 5
4 . 5
0 . 9
7 0 . 2
1 0 . 0
q . s .
Procedure:
Add Par t 8 t o
8 5
C e l s i us t o P a rt A a t 9 5 C e l s i u s w h i l e
s t i r r i n g . C on tin ue m i x i n g and co o l t o 30 C e l s i u s . Add t o t h e
m i c r o n iz e d powder b l e n d i n i n cr e m en t s, m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each
a d d i t i o n .
Water-in-Oil Lotion Makeup
Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 a t e
D e i on i zed w a te r
Magnesi urn s u l f a t e
T a l c
Kao l n
T i t a n iu m d i o x i d e
I r o n O xid es
C a r n a t i o n
Hydrogenated p o l y i sobutene
C arna t i on (and )
1
an ol a1 coho1
S o r b i t o l 7 0 %
I s op r o py l l a n o l a t e (and) l e c i t h i n
Oleamide DEA
P r e s e r v a t i v e
P e rcen t
1 . 2
37 .9
0 . 4
1 . 5
1 . 5
5 . 0
3 . 0
1 5 . 0
8 . 0
8 . 0
5 . 0
7 . 0
2 . 5
q . s .
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p .: P e t r o le u m S p e c i a l t i e s G ro up : S u gg es te d
F a r m u l a t i o n s
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54
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Eye Contour Balm
The s k i n a ro un d t h e ey e i s t h i n n e r , more s e n s i t i v e and r a p i d l y
shows t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g and f a t i g u e s uc h as ; C r o w' s f e e t ,
s ag gin g s k i n , d a r k c i r c l e s and p u f f i n e s s . T h i s i s de sig ne d
u s i n g n a t u r e as a s t a r t i n g p o i n t . Much o f t h e p r o d u c t ' s a c t -
i v i t y comes f ro m m i l d l y r e f i n e d raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t keeps
i n t a c t t h e n a t u r a l p r o p e r t i e s , p r od u c in g a non-oi l y , q u i c k
p e n e t r a t i n g and f ra g r a n c e f r e e p r o d u c t . A l o w c o n c e n t r a t i o n
o f s y n t h e t i c p r e s e r v a t i v e i s needed due t o t h e m in o r components
o f a fe w o f t h e r aw m a t e r i a l s . W i t h r e g u l a r u se t h e a pp ea ra nce
o f a g in g w i l l be reduced .
O i l Phase:
Sweet Almond
O i
1 (Croda)
P r o p o l i s Wax ( Ko st er Keunen)
R ice B ran O i l F i l t e r e d ( K o s t e r K eunen)
S a f f l o w e r
O i l
( A r i s t a )
Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)
Hydrogena ted Cas to r O i l (CasChem)
V i t a m i n A Palmi ta te (BASF)
V i t a m i n E (Roche)
I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Un ich em a)
C e ty l s t e a r y l A l coho l (P&G)
S qua l ene (P o l yes the r )
I sop ropy l P a l m i t a te (U n i chema)
G l yce ro l Monos tea ra te (H enke l )
Water Phase:
Water ( Di s t i 11ed)
G i n k g o B i l o b a ( V e r n i n )
A1
1
a n t o i n ( S u t t o n )
T r i
e th an ol ami ne (Dow)
Xanth an Gum (K e lc o )
Magnab r i t e S ( W h i t t a k e r
P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G e l l a r d
Methy l Paraben (Su t ton)
C & D)
& S c h l e s i n g e r )
4 . 0 %
5.0%
4.0%
2 . 0 %
1 .O%
0 .5%
0.5%
0 .5%
2 . 5 %
1.5%
1 .0%
2 . 0 %
2 . 0 %
69.6%
0.5%
0.5%
1 .O%
1 .O%
0.4%
0 . 2 %
0 . 3 %
Procedure :
under a g i t a t i o n and hea t and homogenize t o 75C. Add o i l phase
t o w a te r ph as e u nd er a g i t a t i o n . Cool a nd p ou r i n t o c o n t a i n e r
a t 45 t o 50C.
A da pt io n o f f o rm u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o du c t :
f r e e o f s y n t h e t i c s p r e s er v a t i v e s .
SOURCE:
Kos te r Keunen, In c . : Suggested Fo rm u la t i o n
Mix and hea t o i l phase t o 80C. Add components o f wa te r phase
W it h o n l y s l i g h t changes t h i s p r od u c t ca n be a l l n a t u r a l a nd
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Beauty
Aids
55
Eye Mascara
I n g r e d i e n t s :
1 . A-C Po ly et hy le ne 617
2 .
A - C
Copolymer 540
3 . M in er a l S p i r i t s
4 . D i hydro abi e t y l A1 coho1
5 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax
6. A1 umi num S t e a r a t e
7 . Bu ty l Parahydroxy Benzoa te
8 . I r o n O x id e
WL
12.0
2 . 0
68 .0
5 . 0
2 . 4
0 . 5
0 .1
1 0 . 0
Procedure :
d i ss o lv e d . Then s p r i n k l e w i t h s t i r r i n g
6
and 7; when a l l i s
d i sso l ved , add 8 and shear w i t h homomixer o r g r i n d i n w i t h 3
r o l l m i l l .
M ix 1-5 and h e at w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l s o l i d waxes have
Eye
Mascara
I n g r e d i e n t s :
1 . M in er a l S p i r i t s
3 .
D i
h y d r o a b i e t y l A lc oh ol
4 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax
5 .
A1 umi num S t e a r a t e
6 . Buty l Parahydroxy Benzoa te
7 . I r o n O xi de
2 . A - C 617A
W B
70
12
5
2 . 4
0 . 5
0 . 1
10
Procedure :
d i ss o l v e d . Then s p r i n k l e w i t h s t i r r i n g 5 and 6 , when a l l i s
d i s so lv ed add 7 and shear w i t h homomixer
o r
g r i n d i n w i t h a
3 r o l l M i l l .
SOURCE: A l l i e d S ig n a l I n c . : Suggested F o rm u l a t io n s
M i x 1 -4 and h ea t w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l s o l i d waxes h ave
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56 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Eye Mascara
T h i s f o r mu l a d em on st ra te s t h e s t a b i l i t y , d i s p e r s i v e and
r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a . The p ro d u ct i s q u ic k
d r y i ng on t h e eye l a sh and uses a mu l t i - p has e emu l s i on sys tem.
O i l
Phase:
Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Ko st er Keunen) 15.0%
Gl yc e r o l Monos tea ra te (H enke l) 3 .5%
Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2. 0%
I so s te a r i c A c i d (Un ichema) 1
.O%
Propy l Paraben (Su t ton)
0 . 3 %
Water Phase:
Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) 63.6%
Sodium Bo ra te (Bora x) 1 .5%
Propy lene Gly co l (Dow) 1
.O%
C arboxy Me thy l C e l l u l o se (H e rcu l es ) 0 .2%
Methy l Paraben (Su t ton) 0 . 3 %
Alcohol Phase:
SDA-30 (Quantum) 9.0%
P u r i f i e d B la c k O xid e ( W h i t t a k e r ) 2 .6 %
Procedure:
Me l t C e ra B e l l i n a t o a maximum o f 75C. Then add t h e r e s t o f
t h e o i l phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Make su r e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m el te d.
I n a s ep a r a t e v e s s e l d i s s o l v e t h e com po nen ts of t h e w at e r p ha se .
Add t h e w at er phase t o t h e o i l phase, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e t e m pe r a tu r e
o f 75C f o r app rox i ma te l y 15 m i nu tes . A l l ow t o coo l s l o w l y . When
t h e temper&-ure i s 35-40C, add t h e a l co ho l phase under h i gh shea r
A d a pt a t i o n o f f or mu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r od u c t:
C ha ng in g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s
o f
w a te r ( i n c r e a s e ) and s o l i d s
(de cre ase ) by sm al l amounts w i l l c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . A v a r -
i e t y
of
p ig me nt s ca n be s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t p r o d u c ts needs.
Eyeliner Stick/Pencil
T h i s p r o d u c t i n c o r p o r a t e s a l a r g e p i gm e nt l o a d a t t h e same
t i m e a s h a v i n g a smooth, ev en a p p l i c a t i o n t o t h e s k i n . The
t e x t u r e i s r id g ed , h i g h l y c o lo r ed f o r l on g wear c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s ,
w i l l
n o t b l e ed and i s v e ry s t a b l e .
1 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C & D ) 25.0%
2 . Ce re si ne Wax 140/150 (K os te r Keunen) 15.0%
3 . Red D&C #7 (Wa rne r-J enk ins on) 12. 5%
4 . P u r i f i e d Navy B l ue ( W h i t t a k e r C &
D )
12.5%
5 . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Ko ste r Keunen) 10.0%
6 . G l y c e r o l T r i o c t a n o a t e ( B a r n e t ) 1 0.0 %
7 . E t h y le n e G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e ( H en k e l) 5 .0 %
8 .
G1 y c e r o l
T r i
behenate (Croda) 5 .0%
9.
Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l (CasChem) 5.0%
Procedure:
Add 2, 5, 6, 7, 8 and
9
i n t o a v e s s e l . M e l t , m ix and m a i n t a i n a
tempera tu re o f 75C, add 1,3 and 4 u n de r h i g h s h e ar . M a i n t a i n
h i g h s he ar m i x i n g f o r 3 0-40 m i n u t e s. C oo l and p o u r i n t o m o l ds .
Lower p i gmen t l o ad and h i gh e r wax and o i l co nc en t ra t i o ns can
be s u b s t i t u t e d so-as -to f a c i l i t a t e t h e g r e a t e s t c o s t e f fe c t i v e -
n es s a nd a t t h e same t i m e , p r o du c e a l u x u r i o u s p r o d u c t .
SOURCE:
Koster
Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Form u la t i on s
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Beauty
Aids
57
Face and Body Milk
A . M i g l y o l 8 4 0
I m w i t o r
900
Mar lowet
T A
6
Mar lowet T A 25
Jo jo ba o i l
Beeswax
P ropy l ene g l yco l monos tea ra te
B .
K e l t r o l g e l 1%
d-Panthenol USP
K a r i o n
F
Water
C . V i t a m i n E
D .
Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Wt$
1 2 . 0
3 .0
1 .2
2 . 1
4.0
2 . 0
1 . o
15.0
3 . 0
5 . 6
t o 1 00 .0
0 . 2
P r e p a r a t i o n
The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e a dded t o g e t h e r a nd h e a te d t o
75-8OC. B. i s s t i r r e d w h i l e h ea te d t o t h e same t em p er at ur e.
B .
i s em u l s i f i e d i n A . C . and D . a r e added a t app rox. 30C.
P re p ar a t i o n o f t h e K e l t r o l g e l : K e l t r o l F 1 .O
Water t o 100 .0%
Both components a re added t og et he r a t room tem per atu re and
s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e homogeneous mi x fo rm s a c l e a r g e l .
L ip
Care
St ick
. S o f t i s a n 1 0 0
Dynac er i n
660
M i g l y o l 8 1 2
S o f t i s an
649
Vase1 e
Beeswax
H a r d p a r a f f
C e t y l a l c o h o l
Carnauba wax
. A n t i o x i d a n t s
Perfume
P r e p a r a t i o n :
A l l i n g r e d i a n t s a r e m el te d , s t i r r e d t o a creamy
u n t i l c o ld , perfume i n co r po r a te d b e f o r e c a s t i n g i n
SOURCE:
H u l s
A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s
f o r
Cosmet
2 0 . 0
8 . 0
6 . 0
5 . 0
3 0 . 0
20.0
5 . 0
5 . 0
1 . o
q s
a s
c o n s i s t e n c y
o moulds.
c s :
Formulas
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58 Cosmetic and
Toiletry Formulations
Face-Lotion
Ethanol 96%
S o f t i g e n 7 6 7
Hamamel
i
Spec
Ma rl owet R 4 0 / K
G l y c e r o l
Ampholyt J B 13
a1
Pant heno l
Camomi 1 e Speci a1
Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Water
%
3 . 0
10.0
0 .3
2 . 0
0 . 2
0 . 2
2 . 0
qs
qs
t o 10 0.0
5 . 0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
The components a r e mixed to g et h er i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Skin
Tonic
Water without Alcohol
S o f t i g e n 7 6 7
1 , 2 -P ropy l ene g l y co l
E x t rapon 3 -S pec i a l
A1 l a n t o i n
Ma r l owet R 4 0 / K
Mentho l
V i t a m i n
F
Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Water
%
5 . 0
3 .0
4.0
0.5
0 . 5
0 . 3
0.2
qs
q s
t o 1 00 .0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH
i s
a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .
SOURCE: Huls A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Co sm e ti cs :
The componen ts a re m ixed t o ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Suggested Formul a t i ons
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Beauty Aids
59
Facial Cleanser
Weight ,%
Mackanate LO-Speci a1 ( D i sod i um La ury l Su l fo su cc i na te ) 88.0
Macko l 16 (C e t y l A l c oh o l ) 2 . 0
B r i j 52 2 .0
M ac ks ta t DM
(DMDM
H y d a n t o i n ) q s
Water , F ragrance
qs
t o 100 .0
S o l i d s , %: 40.0
pH ( a s i s ) : 5 . 5
Appearance: P e a r ly Cream
Procedure:
1. Add Mackol 16,
B r i j
52 and wa te r t o Mackanate LO-Specia l
2 .
61 end u n t i 1 homogeneous.
3 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6 . 0 w i t h s od iu m h y d r o x i d e .
4 . Coo l t o 50 degress C . and add Mackstat DM and f r ag rance .
5 . A d j u s t s o l i d t o 40.0+-1.0 a t t h i s p o i n t .
6 . Cool and f i l l .
and hea t t o 70 degrees C .
Sting Free Facial Cleanser
Mackam 2C
Sod ium Laure th -1 Su l fa te (25%)
Mack ern i um 007
Mackanate DC-30
Mac ke st er SP
Macks ta t
DM
Water, Dye, Fragrance q . s . t o
Wei a h t .%
40 .0
15 .0
1 . 5
4 . 0
2 . 0
q . s .
100.0
Procedure:
1. Add Mackam 2C, Sodium L a u re th -1 S u l f a t e , Mack anate DC-30 and
2 .
Heat t o 70C. and b l en d u n t i l homogeneous.
3 . Cool t o 50C. and s l ow ly add Mackernium 007.
4 .
When com ple te l y d i sp ers ed , add t h e r ema in in g components .
SOURCE:
Mc In t y re Group L t d . : P e rsona l C are F o rmu la ry
Mackester
SP
t o w at e r.
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6
Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
Fluid Make-Up
A .
M i g l y o l 8 1 2
M i g l y o l 8 4 0
I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s
Imw i to r 900
Mar l ooho r
T 1 0
Na s a l t
P a r a f f i n o i l
B . K e l t r o l g e l I *
Water
K a r i o n F
G l y c e r o l
C . Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
D . T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e
T a l c
Z i n c o x i d e
Sicomet Brown 70 C,
The i n a r e d i e n t s o f A
P r e p a r a t i o n
77491
W_m
7 . 0
5 . 0
3.0
2 . 0
2 .0
5.0
15.0
43.0
5.0
3.0
q s
q s
3.0
3.0
3.0
1 . o
a r e m e l t e d and h e a te d t o
75-8OC.
The
f i n e l y m ix ed pi gm en ts
D .
a r e homogenised t oge th e r w i t h A . The
i n g r e d i e n t s o f
B .
a r e mix ed , h e a te d t o
BOC
and s l o w l y e m u l s i f i e d
i n
A .
+ D . Per fume i s added a t a round
3 5 C .
* P re pa ra t i o n o f t h e K e l t r o l g e l : K e l t r o l F 1.0%
W ater t o 100.0%
The K e l t r o l i s mi xe d w i t h t h e w a te r u n t i l homogeneous and t h e
m ix tu re s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e ge l i s c l e a r .
Compact Make-Up
A .
M i g l y o l 8 1 2
M i g l y o l 840
I m w i t o r
900
S o f t i s a n 1 0 0
S o f t i s a n 649
Beeswax
H a r d p a r a f f
S t e a r i c a c i d
8. Sicomet Brown
70
C . I .
77491
Sicomet Brown 75
C .
I .
77491
T a l c
Z i n c o x i d e
T i t a n iu m d i o x i d e
C. Perfume
D. K a r i o n F
P r e p a r a t n :
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . and
0.
a r e m e l te d t o g e t h e r
added t o t h e s t i r re d-u n t i l -ho mo gen eou s phase B. The
a g a i n h e a t e d t o a pp ro x. 70C and s t i r r e d u n t i l c o l d .
and th e who le mix i s homogenised.
1 8 . 0
8 . 0
10.0
10 .0
4.0
7.0
10.0
3.0
0.5
0.5
a . o
8 . 0
8 . 0
q s
5 . 0
a n d g r a d u a l l y
mix i s t he n
C
i s added
SOURCE:
Huls Amer i ca
Inc.:
F o r m u l a t i o n s
for
Cosmet ics: Formulas
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Beauty Aids 61
Fluid Make Up
I nQred i en tS :
A ) C u t i n a GMS
Eumulg in
E
Eutano l
G
M i g l y o l 8 1 2
Phenoni p
E) W ate r dem i ne ra l i zed
Euxyl K-200
C i t r i c a c i d
Hyasol -BT
Bentone
EW
Pigment pa s te wh i t e :
N r .
93975
P igment pa s te ye l l ow :
N r .
75577
P igment pas te red : N r . 68775
P ig me nt p a s t e b l a c k : N r . 78375
% w / w
4,OO
4 , O O
10;
0 0
6,OO
0,30
63 ,66
0,20
0 , 0 4
3,OO
0,60
5,OO
1,50
1,oo
0,40
C ) Perfume O i l : Bea uty 01239870 0,30
Procedure:
Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase
A )
t o 70C.
Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w at e r ph ase B) t o 75C.
Under s t i r r i n g add p ha se 8 ) t o phase A ) , coo l t o 50C,
Then add phase C ) and s t i r c o l d .
homogenize and c oo l t o 30C.
A p p l i c a t i o n
No.
x 004.A/11.92
Regenerating Lipcare-Stick
I n s r e d i e n t s :
1 Wax premix No. 1
2 Pigments
3 A r l a ce l 582
4 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea
5 P h y t a l u r o n a t e
6.
C e p h a l i p i n
%
w / w
72,25
7,60
10,oo
0,15
5,OO
5,OO
Procedure:
M e l t Wax-Prem ix (1 ) a t 8QC i n t h e mai n -m i xer w h i l e m i x i ng
w i t h p a dd le s .
I n c o r p or a t e i t e m 2 and homogenize w e l l .
M e l t ap a r t i t em 3 a t 80C and s l ow l y add t h e p rehea ted (80C)
i tems 4-6.
Add
t h e o b t a i n e d e m u l s io n ( 4 -6 ) t o t h e p i gm e nt ed wax-base
w h i l e m i x i n g a t 80C.
Then p o u r i n t o t h e m ou ld s .
A p p l i c a t i o n No. X 025.0/02.93
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested F o r m u la t i o n s
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62
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Gelled Aloe Vera with Sunscreen
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A . D I
w ate r
Carbopol 940
A l o e V e ra g el L i q u i d 1 : 1
B . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
C . D I water
P h e ny l be n z en i m id a z ol e S u l f o n i c A c i d
T r i et ha no l ami ne
D . DMDM H ydan to i n
E . Disodium
EDTA
Percen t
81 .18
0 .92
2 .3
10.0
2 . 0
t o pH 7 .0
0 . 3
0 . 1
Procedure:
Add A lo e V er ag el e x t r a c t . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e .
Combine C, add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 . Add C t o
n e u t r a l i z e d A ( mo de ra te a g i t a t i o n ) . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and
c h el a t i ng agent .
D is pe r se Ca rb op ol r e s i n i n t o w at er (u nd er h i g h a g i t a t i o n ) .
Aloe Vera Jel ly
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A .
Water
C i t r i c A c i d ( g r an u l a r )
G1 ydan t
Germal l 115
Versene-220
Propy l Gal 1 a t e
6. P r o p y l G l y c o l
Xanthan Gum
Aubygel x-125
C .
Aloe vera 200 powder
P e rcen t
91.94
0 . 2
0 . 3
0 .25
0 .05
0.05
4 .5
0 .75
1 . 5
0 .46
Procedure :
add Phase 0 t o
A .
M i x s l o w l y a nd c o o l
t o
55C. Add phase
C,
and
mix u n t i l un i fo rm . Package a t be tween 35-45C.
SOURCE: D r . M a di s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat Phase A t o 80C. Pre mix Phase B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n and
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Beauty
Aids
63
Gentle Beauty Wash
T h i s e l e g a n t b e a u ty wash i s based on m i l d s u r f a c t a n t s t h a t
r e s u l t i n a m i l d c l e a n s i n g p r o d u c t . I t s n o n - a l k a l in e pH and
c om b in a ti on o f i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d e si gn ed t o l e av e t h e s k i n c l e a n
and smooth w i th ou t harsh soap e f f e c t s .
M a t e r i a l s :
1 .
Deion ized Water
2 . P r op y le n e G l y c o l
3.
50%
Sodium Hydrox ide
4 . Bentone EW
5 . S t e a r i c Ac id , t r i p l e pressed
6 . Igepon AC78
7 . Sipon ESY
8. Siponate DDB-40
9 . Alconate SBR-3
10.Sodium Seth ionate
5 5
11 .Oxaban A
12 .F rag rance
K U
70
% b v Weiqht
46.20
8 . 0 0
0 . 6 0
0 . 4 0
8 . 0 0
11
- 0 0
11 . o o
5 . 0 0
2.50
6 . 5 0
0 . 0 5
0 . 7 5
M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
i d e and p ro py le ne g l y c o l w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . S t a r t h e a t in g .
D ec rease ag i t a t i o n and add t h e s t e a r i c a c i d and I gepon AC78.
C o n t i n ue h e a t i n g u n t i l t h e I g e po n AC78 h as d i s s o l v e d ( 70 d e gr ee s
C e l s i u s ) . Add t h e Si pon ESY, Si p on a te DDB-40, A lc o n a t e SBR-3
and S od i um I se th i ona te
5 5 .
S t a r t c o o l i n g . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e
and f r ag ranc e a t 35C. T he v i s c o s i t y and pe a r l w i l l develop upon
s t a n d i n g .
I n g r e d i e n t L a b e l
:
W ater, Sodium c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e , S t e a r i c a c i d , P ro p yl en e
g l y c o l , Sodium i s e t h i o n a t e , Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , Sodium
dodecy l benzene su l f on a t e , D i sod ium r i c i no l e m i do , ME A-su lf o -
succ i n a te , F ragrance , H e c t o r i t e , Sodium hyd ro x i de , 4 ,4 -D i m e thy l -
o x a z o l i d i n e , 3,4,4-Trimethyloxazolidine.
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
D i spe rse t he B en tone
EW
i n t h e d e i o n i z e d w a t e r , sodium h y d r ox -
pH: 5 .8-6 .1
V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LV4 @ 2 5 degrees C ( a t r e s t 12 h o u r s ) :
@ 3
RPMs
80,000-110,000
CP
@ 6 RPMs 50 ,000 - 70,000
CP
@ 12 RPMs 30,000->50,000 C P
Appearance: Whi te , pe ar le d, pumpable cream
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Rhone Pou lenc P ro to ty pe For mu l a t i o n 9 1 - 0 4 0 1
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6
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair and Skin Moisturizing Mist
A r e f r e s h i ng s p ra y c o n t a i n i n g s p e c i a1 h um ec ta nt s t o r e p l e n i s h
much needed mo i s tu re t o h a i r and sk i n . C on ta i ns Sodium PCA
t o h e l p r e s t o r e n orm al m o i s t u r e b a l an c e and keep t h e s k i n
y ou ng l o o k i n g and f r e s h . A l s o c o n t a i n s A l o e V er a G el and
P an th en ol t o so ot he , c o n d i t i o n a nd p r o t e c t t h e s k i n and h a i r
f r o m d r y i n g o u t . Recommended f o r u se u n de r d r y c l i m a t i c c on d-
i t i o n s , d r y h e a t o r d u r i n g sun ex po su re .
Innred ient /T rade Name:
P a r t A :
Dei o n i zed Water
Po ly qu at er n i um-4/Celquat H-100
C i t r i c A c i d
Pr op y le ne G1 yc o l
Methy lparaben
91 . I 3
0 . 0 5
0.01
2 . 0 0
0 . 2 0
P a r t B:
Sod i um PCA/Aj ew N-50 2 .00
S o r b i t o l
&
Sod ium Lac ta te
&
P r o l i n e
&
Sodium PCA &
Hydro1yz ed Col 1 agen/Prodew 100
2 .00
Pantheno l
0 . 1 0
Alo e Vera Gel /Aquasol 104
1 . o o
Dimeth i cone Copo lyo l /Dow Corn ing 193 0 . 3 0
D i
azo1 i n y l Urea/Germal 1
I
0 . 2 0
P a r t C :
Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisof t CT-12
Polysorbate 20/Tween 2 0
Fragrance #X3110
0
I
5 0
0 . 5 0
0.01
Procedure :
D i
s pe rs e C e lq u a t H100 n t o r a p i d l y a g i a t i ng de i o n i zed w a te r .
Heat t o 70 deg rees C en t i g rade . Add rema i n i ng P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s .
M i x u n t i l c o m pl e te l y c l e a r and u n i f o rm . S t a r t c o o l i n g . A t
5 0
deg rees C en t i g rade , add P a r t
B
i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x w e l l a f t e r each
a d d i t i o n . P re mi x P a r t C . A t 40 degrees Ce nt ig rad e add p remixed
P a r t C t o P a r t
A .
C o n t i nu e m i x i n g a nd c o o l i n g t o 35 d eg re es
C e n t i g r a d e .
Appearance: C l e ar , l i g h t y e l l o w , w a t e r - t h i n l i q u i d
pH: 5 .00-5.40
SOURCE: A j i n o m o to USA, I n c . : S ugges ted F o rmu l a t i on
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Beauty Aids 65
Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray
A r e f r e s h i n g s pr ay c o n t a i n i ng spec i a1 h um ec ta nts t o r e p l e n i s h
much needed mo is tu re t o h a i r and s k i n . Con ta ins Sodium PCA t o
h e l p r e s t o r e n o rm al m o i s t u r e b al a n c e and keep t h e s k i n young
and f r e sh , A l so c on ta i n s A l oe V e ra Gel t o soo the d ryness , and
e m o l l i e n t s t o c o n d i t i o n and p r o t e c t t h e s k i n and h a i r f rom
d r y i n g o u t . Recommended f o r u se u nd er d r y c l i m a t i c c o n d i t i o n s ,
d r y h e a t o r d u r i n g s un e xp o su re .
In s r ed i en t /T r ade Name:
P a r t A :
Deion ized Water
Sodi um PCA/Aj ew N-50
A l o e V era Gel D e c o l o r i z e d l x
D i me th i cone C opo lyo l/D ow C orn i ng 193 S u r f ac ta n t
D i azo1 i n y l Urea/Germal
1 I
I
P a r t :
P ropy l ene G l yco l
Methy lparaben
P a r t C :
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisof t C T - I 2
Procedure:
M ix p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g s comp
o l v e d . H eat p a r t
0
t o 50 degrees Cent ig rade and m i
Add par t C . Mix w e l l .
Appearance:
C le ar , c o l o r l e s s , w a t e r - t h i n l i q u i d .
pH:
5 . 3 0 - 5 . 6 0
Ha ir Liquid So ft Type )
%
by Weiaht
8 8 .9 5
3 .00
5 . 0 0
0 .30
0 . 1 0
e t e
un
0 )
Pyro te r GPI -25
2-Hexy ldecy l A l coho l
E t h y l A l c o h o l
Methy lparaben
Perfume
( W )
A j i d e w
T - 5 0
Water
Procedure:
1 . D i s s o l v e ( 0 ) and
( W )
s e p a r a t e l y a t room te m p e r a t u re
2. Add
( W )
t o 0)w i t h s t i r r i n g .
c l e a r s o l u t i ons .
pH:
7 . 0
V i s c o s i t y :
6
cps
SOURCE: A j i nomo to U S A , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
2 . 0 0
0 . 1 5
0 5 0
y d i s s -
l c l e a r
Wt%
9 . 0
1
. o
4 0 . 0
0 . 1
q . s .
4.0
4 5 . 9
t o be
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66
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
High Shine Lipstick
H i g h g l o s s ,
f i r m
l i p s t i c k w i t h good m o i s t u r i z i n g q u a l i t i e s .
L i q u e f i e s i n s t a n t l y t o an o i l , s l i p p e r y f i l m w h i l e d e p o s i t i n g
v e r y l i t t l e sh ee r c o l o r and h i g h pe ar le sc en ce .
C as to r O i l
Candel 1a Wax
A c e t u l a n
Ross Wax 1275W
P r o p y le n e G l y c o l M o n o l a u ra t e
Lanogene
Carnauba Wax
P ropy l pa raben
Timiron MP-10
D
&
C
Red #9 (31 -30 09)
D &
C
Red #7 Ca Lake (3107)
Pu r. Navy Blu e #7110
F rag rance
%
5 9 . 4
8 .0
7 .5
5 . 0
5 .0
5 .0
2 . 0
0 .1
7 .0
0 . 6
0 . 3
0 .1
q . s
Procedures :
G r i n d t h e p ig me nts i n p a r t o f t h e C as to r O i l u s i n g e i t h e r a
3 - r o l l
m i l l
o r m o r t a r / p e s t l e . Add a l l o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s ( e xc ep t
f o r p e a r l e s c e n t p ig m en t and f r a g r a n c e and h e a t g e n t l y o n steam
ba th t o 80-85C. Add pe ar l , m ix u n t i l homogeneous. F ragrance
s h o u l d be added a t l o w e s t p o s s i b l e t e m p e r at u r e . C as t i n t o m ol ds .
Lipst ick Formulat ion
Ross
S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a Wax
I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e
L a n o l i n N .F .
Ross White Beeswax N.F.
Ross Re f i n ed P a r a f f i n Wax 130/35
Ross W h it e O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W
C a s t o r O i l
Pigment
Teg . "P"
%
10.9
9 . 5
4 .4
3 .3
2 .0
0 . 9
54 .3
1 2 . 0
0 . 1
*Formu1 a t i on deve loped by P r e c is io n Cosmetic o f Mount Vernon,
N Y , i n c o n j u nc t io n w i t h t h e Frank
0 .
Ross Company.
SOURCE: F rank B .
Ro ss
Co., I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Beauty Aids 67
Lip
Balm White
Rosswax 2639
M i n e r a l
O i l
7
Solar Chem 0
Fragrance GP-58
%
8 5 . 0
13 .5
1 . 5
q . s .
Procedure:
M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v es se l .
M i x t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e and p o ur
i n t o a co n t a i n e r . N o te : C appi ng may be necessa ry.
Lip
Balm
I
Cas to r O i l C r y s t a l 0
Emery IPP
Emery 1723
Rosswax 2640
Ac et u 1an
SDA Alcohol #40
Solar Chem 0
P ropy l ene G l yco l
Fragrance GP-58
%
46.0
17 .0
1 0 . 4
19.6
2 . 5
2 . 0
1 . 5
1 . o
q . s a
Procedure:
M e l t a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l .
M i x t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Co ol t o 165F, f r ag r a nc e and p o ur
i n t o a co n t a i ne r . No te : Capp ing may be necessary .
Lip Balm I I
Ross Base
O i l
2539
Emery 1723
Rosswax 2641
SDA A l coho l #40
Solar Chem 0
P ropy l ene G l yco l
Fragrance GP-58
%
55.4
10 .8
29 .3
2 .0
1 . 5
1 . o
q . s .
Procedure :
M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v es se l . M ix
t ho ro u gh ly w i t h a g i t a t i o n ,
cool
t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e an d p o ur i n t o
a co nt a i ne r . Note: Capping may be necessary .
SOURCE:
Frank
8 .
R o s s C o . ,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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68
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Lip G loss Sou ffle)
Ma te r i a1s: %
by
Wei u h t
1. Beeswax 7 . 0
2 . Cer aph yl 140A 12. 7
3. P ropy l pa raben 0 .1
4. Tenox 4 0 . 1
5. Bentone Gel LOX r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 7 0.0
6. Time ron Pe ar l Sheen MP-30 5. 0
7 . P i gment Conce nt ra te ** 0 . 4
8 .
Perfume
0 . 2
Cas to r O i l 60 .0
C o l o r No. 3106
D&C
Red No. 6 40.0
**P igment Concent ra te
1 . Weigh i t e m 1 t h r o u g h 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d
k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l m e lte d c l e a r .
2 . B r i n g t empera tu re down t o 78C. Add and mi x i n i t em 5 us i ng
a homomixer a t medium speed. Mix f o r ano the r t e n minut es .
3 .
A l l i t e m 6 and m ix f o r f i v e m in ut es o r u n t i l d i s pe rs ed ;
t h e n a dd i t e m 7 and m ix f o r a n o th e r f i v e m i n ut e s.
4 . Con t in ue m ix in g a t medium speed and lower temp era tu re t o 60C.
Add i tem 8 . Remove h e a t and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l c on ge al ed o r
p ou r i n t o c o n t a i n e r .
P i gment C oncent r a t e P r ep a r a t i on :
1 . W eigh d r y p owder i n t o c a s t o r o i 1 us in g a s low speed Hobar t
t y p e m ix er u n t i l u n i fo r m .
2 .
G iv e t h i s c o n ce n t ra t e tw o t o t h r e e p asses ov er a t h r e e r o l l
m i l l a t room tempera tu re .
Roll-On Lip Gloss
M a t e r i a1s
%
by Wei a h t
1 . S u cr os e A c e t a t e I s o b u t y r a t e
30.0
2 . I so p ro py l a n 33 44 .5
3 . P ropy lparaben
0 . 1
4. Tenox 4
0 . 1
5 . B en tone Gel LO1 rh eo l og i ca l a d d i t i v e 22 .5
6 . P ig me nt c o n c e n t r a t e * 0 . 2
7 . P ea r l W h i t e 2 .5
8 . Per fume 0 .1
*P igment Concent ra te
C as to r
O i l
60.00
C o l o r
No.
3106 D&C Red No. 6 40.00
1 .
Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 7 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s tea m j a c k e t e d
k e t t l e . Heat t o 80C u n t i l m el te d c l e a r .
2 . B r i n g t empera tu re down t o 75C; add and m i x i n i t e m 5 us i ng
homomixer a t medium speed. Mi x f o r 10 mi nu te s a t 75C.
3. Add i tem 6 and m i x f o r 5 m i nu te s o r u n t i l d i sp e r se d ; t h e n
add i t e m 7 and m i x f o r ano the r 5 m i nu tes .
4 . Con t in ue m ix in g a t medium speed and lo wer tempe ra tu re t o 60C.
Add i t e m 8. Remove h ea t and a l l o w mass t o come t o room temp.
P i gmen t C oncen t ra te P repa ra t i on :
1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e ca s to r o i 1 us i ng a s l ow speed
2 , G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e t wo p as se s o v e r a
3
r o l l m i l l a t
SOURCE: Rheox. I n c , : Fo rm ul as TS-135 & T S - 1 8 4
H ob ar t t y p e mi xe r u n t i l u n i f o r m .
room temperature .
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Beauty
Aids 69
T h is p r od u ct u t i 1
B e l l i n a t o prod uc e a
s i l k y l a s t i n g c o l o ur
Phase
A:
Cas to r O i l (Caschem)
Candel 1a Wax (K os t
Carnauba Wax ( K os te r
Lip Pencil
zes t h e d i s p e r s i v e p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera
p r od u c t w h ic h g l i d e s on e a s i l y , l e av e s
t h a t i s w a te r r e s i s t a n t .
r Keunen)
51.5%
8.0%
Keunen) 7.0%
M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (Kos te r Keunen) 5 .0%
Ce re sin e 130/135 Wax (K os te r Keunen) 3. 0%
M i n e r a l O i l (W i t co ) 3 .0%
Ce ty l A lco hol (P&G) 1 . 5 %
P h a s e B :
Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K os te r Keunen)
8 .0%
I r o n Ox ide Brown (Warner -Jenk inson) 2 .O%
T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r
C&D)
8 .0%
D&C Red 6 ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 3 .0%
Heat and mix Phase B, d i s p e r s i n g p ig m e nt s and b r e a k i n g u p
v i s i b l e agg l omera t i on . Add Phase A t o Phase 8 , heat and mix
t o g e t he r u nd er a g i t a t i o n . A l l ow t o co o l t o 65C and p ou r i n t o
mo l ds . C hang ing t h e con ce n t ra t i o n o f waxes and
or
o i l s w i l l
so f t e n and ha rden t h e p rod uc t t o ma i n t a i n c ons i s t e ncy when chang -
i n g p ig m en ts and c o l o u r s . D i f f e r e n t pi gm e nt s w i l l a f f e c t t h e
g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e b ase and i s compensated f o r w i t h
ch an ge s i n c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f waxes a nd o i l s u se d, S un sc re en s
can a l s o be i n c o r po r a t e d w i t h o u t d i f f i c u l t f o r m u la changes.
New Look Lipstick
T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k has a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g w ea ri ng .
The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s ta b le , a l t ho u gh i t has a h i g h o i l con-
c e n t r a t i o n . By u s i n g s y n t h e t i c r ep la ce m en ts o f n a t u r a l p ro d u c t s
t h i s f or mu la i s o f v e ry lo w c o s t b u t l o o k s and p er fo rm s l i k e a
h i g h end p r o d u c t .
1. NF Yel low Beeswax (Koster Keunen) 5 . 0 %
2 . S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t er K eunen)
9.9%
3. Oz ok er i t e 170 (Ko st er Keunen)
10.6%
4 .
Sy nt he t i c Carnauba (Koste r Keunen)
1 . 5
5 . Cas to r O i l (Caschem) 2 0
* 0%
6. P a r a f f i n O i l (Kydol -Wi tco) 15.3%
7 .
E d i b l e C oconut
O i l
(Cocochem) 32.7%
8 .
D&C
Red
30
(Warner-Jenk inson)
4.5
9 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C
8
D ) 0.5%
Add
1 , 5 ,
8 and 9 i n t o a v e ss e l l a r g e enough t h a t
w i l l
a l l o w
t h e o t h e r components t o b e added a f t e r t h e beeswax, c a s t o r o i l
and p igments have been me l te d (75C.) and mixed tog e t he r w i t h t h e
i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down as many o f t h e v i s i b l e a g g l om e r at i on s .
A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r at i o n s hav e b ee n s e p ar a te d , add 2, 3
and 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e m i x i n g . I n c r e as e t h e te m pe ra tu r e
s l i g h t l y i f needed t o m e l t t h e s y n t h e t i c c ar n au b a. Then t h e
remainder
of
t h e components can be added and mixed a t a temp-
e r a t u re o f
70C.
A f t e r t h e p rod uc t i s homogeneous use a shea r
m i x e r a t l o w s p e e d f o r
4 5
t o
60
m in ut es , m a i n t a i n i n g a s i m i l a r
t empera tu re .
a pp ea ra nc e o r p e r fo r m an c e . S un sc re en s a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d .
SOURCE: Ko ste r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested
F o r m u l a t i o n s
S l i g h t changes i n o i l s and waxes
w i l l
n o t a l t e r t h e p ro d uc ts
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7
Cosmetic and Toilehy Formulations
Lipstick
D er ma cr yl LT p r o v i d e s i n c r ea s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n , r u b - o f f
r e s i s t a n c e and w a te r r e s i s t a n c e .
I n q r e d i e n t s :
m
Phase
A :
Eutanol G 6.00
P r i s o r i ne 351 5 20.00
Ceraphyl I C A 2 . 7 0
Cera1an 5.00
Derm acryl LT 2. 00
Phase B :
F l u i a n 10 .0 0
Candel 1 a Wax 12.0 0
O zo ke r i te Wax 5. 00
Cu t i n a LM 10 .00
Drake ol 35 5.00
Tenox BHA 0 .10
P ropy l pa raben 0 . 2 0
Phase C :
DC
Red
#6
( D is p er s io n i n C a st or O i l ) 15.00
F1 amenco Su pe rp ea rl 5.0 0
Phase D:
V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 1 .oo
V i t a m i n E P a l m i t a t e
1
. o o
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n , s l ow l y s i f t i n Dermacry l LT, m ix u n t i l c o m pl et e.
Combine Phase
B,
he at t o 80C. Add Phase
B
t o Phase A a t 8OC,
mix th or ou gh ly . Phase C: M i x p ig m en ts t o g e t h e r , add t o A and B
a t 80C. Cool t o 80C.
Add
Phase D , m ix t h o r o u g h l y . Pour i n t o
mo lds and co o l t o room temp era tu r e .
SOURCE:
Na t io na l S t a r ch and Chemica l
Co. :
Formula
7661-1448
Combine Phase A , except Dermacry l LT . Heat t o
80C.
With good
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Beauty Aids 71
Lipstick
A . S o f t i san 645
Dyn ace ri n 660
S o f t i s a n 1 0 0
Mi g l yo l 812
Beeswax
E u tano l G
Pr os o l a l S9
PCL l i q u i d
P r o t e g i n X
6 .
Carnauba wax
C a sto r o i l
H e x y l e n e g l y c o l
S t e a r i c a c i d
T i m i
r on S ta r l us t re MP -115
Perfume o i l T end resse
D . C o l o u r s :
Pink: S icornet Rot P 15630 CA
Red: Sico me t Ro t P 15630 CA
V i o l e t : Sicornet V i o l e t t
P
77007
G
Wt%
1 0 . 0
8 . 0
7 . 0
7 . 0
11.0
9 . 0
5.0
5 . 0
4 . 0
9 . 0
6 . 0
3 . 0
2.0
1 0 . 0
1 . o
qs
0 . 5
3 . 0
0 . 5
P r e p a r a t i o n :
A l l i n g re d i en ts a r e hea ted t o 75C and homogen ised w i t h a
h i g h speed s t i r r e r . The
m x
i s p ou re d i n t o m oulds b e f o r e
i t
has
g o t c o l d .
Lip-Gloss
A . S o f t i s a n 6 4 5
S o f t i s a n 6 4 9
Rewopal
P I B
1000
L a nf r a x
Candel 1a wax
B . P e a r l l u s t r e p ig me nt *
C o l ou r
Perfume
Wt%
44.5
10.0
3 0 . 0
1 0 . 0
2 . 5
3 . 0
qs
q s
* T i mi ro n S t a r l u s t r e
M P
115
P r e p a r a t i o n
i n g r e d i e n t s o f
B.
a re m i xed t o ge the r and added t o A . F i n a l l y , t h e
m i x i s homogen ised .
SOURCE:
H u l s A me ric a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s
f o r
Cosmet ics : Formulas
A .
i s m e lt ed a t 60C and s t i r r e d u n t i l c o ol ed down t o
4 0 C .
The
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72 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lipstick
M i g l y o l G e l
0
M i g l y o l 8 1 2
M i g l y o l 8 4 0
S o f t i g e n 701
P a r a f f i n o i l
I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e
C as to r o i l
Eu tano l
H D
Carnauba wax
Wool wax alcohol
Beeswax
I m w i t o r 9 0 0
Oxynex 2004
Perfum e o i l
GC
10776
T a l c
T i a n i um d i o x i d e
Z i n c o x i d e
T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115
Flame Orange 5305 No. 5 C.11994
L o M ic ro n Tan 3088
C .
11997
w t %
10.0
7 . 0
5 . 0
7 . 0
7.0
5 . 0
9 . 0
5 . 0
8 . 0
5 . 0
10.0
4.0
0 . 2 0
0 . 2 8
3 . 0
3 . 0
3 . 0
5 . 0
1 . 7
3.0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
A. i s m ix ed ,
E .
i s added and hea ted t o 75-8OC.
D
i s f i n e l y
g r o u n d w i t h
A ,
t h e b e i ng s t i r r e d i n t o
0 .
i n sm al l p o r t i o n s .
Pe rfu me i s a dded t o t h e m i x a nd a t 60C. i t i s p oured i n t o t h e
m ou ld, w hi ch i s n o t c o o l e d . The m ix i s s e t b y s t o r i n g t h e m ou ld
one hour
i n
a r e f r i g e r a t o r .
Lipstick
Glossy
W B
A . M i g l y o l G e l 8 20.0
S o f t i s a n 6 45 1 5 .0
I m w i t o r
780K
6 . 0
M i g l y o l 8 2 9 6 . 0
L a n f r a x 1 0 . 0
Beeswax
5 . 0
Candel 1a wax
5 . 0
C as to r o i l 4 . 5
Sodi um s t e a r a t e 1
. o
0 .
Rewopal PI0
1000
15.0
A n t i o x i d a n t s qs
C . Perfume
q s
D . S i c o m e t E r y t h r o s i n l a c k E 127 0 .5
T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 1 0 . 0
P r e p a r a t i o n
:
A. and B. a r e m i xed t o ge th e r and hea ted t o app rox . 8 0 C .
0.
i s
added and t h e m i x i s h om og en ise d. Pe rfu me i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t
approx. 30C.
SOURCE: Huls Amer ica In c . : Fo rm ula t io ns f o r Cosmet ics : F ormulas
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Beauty Aids 73
Lipstick
T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k has a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g w ea r i ng .
The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s t a b l e , a l t ho u gh i t has a h i g h o i l con-
c e n t r a t i o n . Cera B e l l i n a a l lo w s f o r h i g h c o l o r a t i o n w i t h o u t
l a r g e pigm ent l o a d and im p ar ts a s a t i n l i k e f e e l t o t h e l i p s .
Formu 1a :
1 . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen)
2 . C a n d e l i l l a (K os te r Keunen)
3. O zo ke r i te 160/164 (K ost er Keunen)
4 .
Carnauba #1 Ye l lo w (K o st e r Keunen)
5 . Cas to r O i l (Caschem)
6 .
P a r a f f i n
O i l
(Kydo l -Wi tco )
7 .
O c t y l P a l m i t a te ( I n o l e x )
8 .
Jo j oba
O i l
(Jo joba Growers )
9 .
V i t a m i n
E
(Freeman)
l O . D & C Red # 7 (Warner-Jenk inson)
1l .O ra ng e Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)
1 2 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r
C D )
13.Propy l Paraben (S u t to n)
16.70%
3.10%
4.20%
1.20%
43.45%
16.30%
6.20%
1
.OO%
0.50%
4.00%
3.00%
0.25%
0.10%
Procedure:
Add 1, 10, 11, and 12 i n t o a vesse l l a r g e enough t h a t
w i l l
a l l o w t h e o t h e r components t o b e added a f t e r t h e Cera B e l l i n a
(Pg-3 Beeswax), Orange Wax and pi gm en ts have been m e lt e d (75C)
and m ix e d t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down as many
o f t h e v i s i b l e a gg lo me ra tio ns . A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e a gg lo me ra tio ns
h av e b ee n s e p a r a te d ad d 2 , 3 an d 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e
m i x i n g. I n cr e a se t h e t em pe ra tu re s l i g h t l y i f needed t o m e l t t h e
carnauba . Then t h e rema inder
o f
t h e components can be added and
mixed a t a t empera tu re o f 70C. A f t e r t h e p rod uc t i s homogeneous,
u s e a s he a r m i x e r a t l o w sp eed f o r 45 t o 60 m i n u t e s , m a i n t a i n i n g
a s i m i l a r t e m p e r a t u r e .
A d a p t a t i o n
o f
f o rm u la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r od u c t:
O the r o i l s n a t u r a l o r s y n t h e t i c can e a s i l y be s u b s t i t u t e d
t o meet t h e f o r m u la t o r s needs, c o s t , a v a i l a b i l i t y , e t c . w i t h o u t
s i g n i f i c a n t l y c ha ng in g t h e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . H ig he r me1 t i n g p o i n t s
can e a s i l y b e ac hie ve d w i t h o n l y s l i g h t a l t e r a t i o n s i n wax
c o n c e n t r a t i o n . B i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e compounds a r e e a s l i y i n c o r p -
o r a t e d i n t o t h e f o rm u l as . De pe nd in g on t h e d e s i r e d c o l o r and
t h e b l e n d o f p i g me n ts used, t h e r e w i l l be a need f o r sma l l
i n g r e d i e n t c o n c e n t r a t i o n changes i n t h e f or m ul a d ue t o t h e
p ig m en t ' s e f f e c t on t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e m i x t u re .
SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Form u la t i on s
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74 Cosmetic and
Toiletry
FormuZutions
L ip s t i c k
A . Carnauba Wax
Candel 1a Wax
Beeswax
Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l
L i q u i d L a n ol i n
M ic r o c r y s t a l 1 e Wax
2-Oc ty ldodecano l
2 - O ct y ld o d ec y l M y r i s t a t e
C as to r O i l
8. Pear l P igment
T i a n i um D i ox id e
Amihope LL
Red Oxide
o f
I r o n
Organ i c P i gment (Red)
Procedure:
1 . M i x
( A )
and ( e ) , a n d d i s s o l v e a t 8 0 C .
2 . Knead them w i t h a r o l l .
3 . D i ss o l v e a t 80C.
4. Remove sma l l bub ble s i n a vacuum, and the n p re ss .
N o te : T h i s l i p s t i c k h as smooth to u c h, and sp re ad s w e l l
2 . 0
6 .5
5 . 5
2 . 0
16.8
3 .0
15 .0
10 .0
23.2
4 :5
4 .5
3 . 5
1 . 3
2 . 2
Lipst ick Formulae
T h e a d d i t i o n o f Eldew CL-301 r e s u l t s i n a p r e p a r a t i o n w i t h
r em ar ka bl e s p r e a d a b i l i t y , im pro ve d l u s t e r and e x c e l l e n t c o l o r
w i t h o u t r e d u c in g t h e s t r e n g t h .
A C as to r O i l
Candel 1a
Carnauba
O z o k e r i t e
C ap ry l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e
Eldew CL-301
B Mi ca
Ye1 low on ox id e
D&C Red
#7
Amihope LL
SOURCE: Ajinomoto
USA,
I n c . : S uggested F o rmu l a t i ons
55 .0
4 .8
2 .0
4.0
15.0
5 .0
7 . 4
2 . 2
3.0
1 . 6
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BeautyAids 75
Liquid Foundation
P a r t A :
H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e
M ag na br i t e
Water
T a l c
P a r t :
C etea re th 15
Pro pyle ne G1 yc o l
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
C e t y l A l c o h o l
I s o s t e a r i c A c i d
C a r n a t i o n
M i
n e r a l
O i
1
P a r t C :
T i a n i um D i ox i de
I r o n O xi de s
P a r t D :
Germaben I 1
Weight%
0 . 4
0 . 4
56.26
3 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
3 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
4 . 0 0
4 . 0 0
6 . 0 0
6 .00
0 . 9 4
1 . o o
Procedure :
and s i f t i n t o v o r t e x o f w a t er w i t h maximum s h e a r . When d i s p e r s e d ,
add t a l c . Heat t o 80C. Add o i l p hase, s t i r u n t i l u n i f or m . Add
t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e and i r o n ox i de s .
M i l l
t o d i s p e r s e p ig me nt s.
Add D . Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o 32C.
B l en d t o g e t h e r M a g n ab r it e an d h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h yl c e l l u l o s e
Powder Foundation
T a l c
T i t a n iu m d i o x i d e
S e r i c i t e
S p he r ic a l s i 1 c a
P o l y t e t r a f l u o r o e t h y l e n e powder
Red i r o n o x i d e
Y el lo w i r o n o x i d e
B1 ack o n o x i d e
D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o xa n e
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1
S o r b i t a n s e s q u io l e a te
P r e s e r v a t i v e
F ragrance
1 7 . 0 %
1 0 . 0
40.0
1 0 . 0
1 0 . 0
0 . 5
1 . 0
0 . 1
1
. o
9 . 0
1
. o
0 . 3
0 . 1
SOURCE:
W i tco C o rp . : P e t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s G roup : S ugges ted
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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76 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Make-Up
T h is f o r m ul a d em ons t ra tes t h e s t a b i l i t y , d i s p e r s i v e q u a l i t i e s
and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a i n a h i g h pigm en t
l oa d , v e g e t a b le o i l and h yd ro ca rb on o i l f r e e p r o d u c t . The
p rod uc t i s qu i c k d r y i n g on t h e s k i n l e a v i n g a s o f t v e l v e t l i k e
f e e l , f o r a f l a w le s s , l o n g w ea ri ng n a t u r a l l o o k .
O i l Phase:
I sop ropy l P a l m i t a te (U n i chema)
Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen)
S i l i c o n e O i 1 556 (Dow)
Ce re si ne Wax 130/135 (K os te r Keunen)
G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( W i t c o )
Em ul s i fy in g Wax NF (Koster Keunen)
PEG-1 00 S t ea r a t e ( L i po)
Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)
P ropy l P araben (S u t t on )
Water Phase:
Water ( Di s t i 1 e d )
Sodium H y d ro x i d e ( A l d r i c h )
C i t r i c Ac id ( A l d r i c h )
Bermocal l E230 (Whi t taker C&D)
Methy l Paraben (Su t ton)
Pigment Phase:
T i t an i um D i ox i de ( W h i t t a ke r C&D)
I r o n Ox ide Ye l l ow 7055 (Warner -Jenk inson)
I r o n Ox ide Brown 7058 (Warner-Jenk inson)
Mica (Rona)
I r o n Ox ide Red 7067 (Warne r-Jenk inson)
14.50%
6.00%
4 . 5 0 %
1.50%
0.80%
0.70%
0.50%
0.30%
0
*
20%
51 - 0 5 %
0 60%
0 . 5 0 %
0.20%
0.20%
13.50%
2.70%
1.20%
1.00%
0 . 5 0 %
Procedure :
Me l t o i l phase t o a maximum o f 75C and m i x , mak ing su r e a l l
i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m e lt e d. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s se l d i s s o l v e t h e comp-
o n en ts o f t h e wa te r p ha se . Add t h e o i l ph as e t o t h e w a t er phase,
m a i n t a i n i n g t h e t em p e ra t ur e o f 75C f o r a p p ro x im a t el y 15 m i n u t e s .
A l l o w t o c o o l s l o w l y . When t h e t em p e r a t u re i s 55 t o 60C, a dd t h e
p igment phase under h ig h shear .
A da p ta t i on o f f o r m ul a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o du c t :
C ha ngin g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f w a t e r ( i n c r e a s e ) and s o l i d s
(decre ase) by sma l l amounts w i l l c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . A v a r i e t y
o f p ig m en ts can b e s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t p r o d u c t s n eeds.
SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rm u la t i o n
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Beauty Aids 77
Liquid Makeup
M a t e r i a l s :
1 . Ta lc 1623
2 . 328 T i ta n i um Di ox id e CTFA
% bv Wei q h t
5 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
3 . C o l o r
No.
3170 Pur Oxy Yel low B.C.
0 . 4 0
4 .
C o l o r No. 3315 Pur Oxy Umber B . C . 0 . 2 0
5 . C o l o r No. 2511 Lo-Micron P ink
B . C .
0 4 0
6. Water (d e io n iz ed ) 79 .95
7 . Me thy l paraben 0 .25
8 . P r o py l en e G l y c o l 5 . 0 0
9 . C e rasyn t
840
2.00
1 0. Be nt on e LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 1 . 5 0
11.Per fume
0 . 3 0
M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . P a r t 1 - I n a powder b l end e r , add i t ems 1 t h r o u g h 5 and mix
t o g e t h e r f o r 20 mi nu te s. Remove powder f ro m bl en de r and p u t
t h r o u g h a m i c r o p u l v e r i z e r .
hea t t o 65C. Us in g a homomixer a t medium speed, add and mi x
i n i t e m 1 0. C o nt in u e m i x i n g f o r 20 t o 30 min ut es u n t i l
c o m p l e t e l y d i spersed .
2 . P a r t 2-Add i t e m s 6 t h r o u g h 9 t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l a nd
3 . C oo l P a r t 2 t o 4 0 C and add and mix i n ern 11.
4 .
W i t h con t i n uous m i x i n g a t medium speed, add P a r t 1 t o P a r t 2
and m ix t o g e t h e r f o r 15 m i n u t e s.
5 . Put e n t i r e m i x t u re th ro ug h a c o l l o i d
m i l l
f o r u n i f o r m p ig me nt
g r i n d i n g .
Formula TS-116
Silky Facial Mask
M a t e r i a l s : % bv Weigh t
P a r t
A :
1 . D . I . Water 76.3
2 . P ropy lene G l y co l 5 . 0
3. M i ranol 2MHT Modi f i e d 3 . 0
4 . Methy l Paraben 0 . 1
P a r t B :
5 . P a r i c i n 9 2 . 0
6 . I s o p r o p y l a n 50
4 . 0
7 . P ropy l P araben 0 . 1
P a r t C :
8 .
Bentone MA R h e ol o gi c al A d d i t i v e 4 . 0
9 . Z i n c O x id e
3 . 0
1 0 .3 2 8 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 2 . 5
M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . Weigh i tems
1
t h r o u g h
4
i n t o a s t a i n l e e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e te d
k e t t l e . Heat P a r t A t o 6%.
2 . I n a se p a r a t e v e s s e l, add i t e m s 5 t h r o u g h 7 a nd h e a t t o
6 5 C
Mix u n t i 1 co mp le t e l y me l ted and homogeneous.
3 . M ix P a r t B s l o w l y i n t o P a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g. M i x f o r 15 t o 20
m i n . , and b r i n g t e m p e ra t u r e down t o 55C w h i l e m i x i n g .
4 .
M i x P a r t
C
se pa ra te l y us in g a homomixer and add t o above
m i x t u r e w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix
i t
f o r 15 m i n u t e s. M a i n t a i n
t e m p e r a tu r e and p as s th r o u g h C o l l o i d M i l l .
Formula TS-252
SOURCE: Rhone Poulenc I n c . : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
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78
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Lotion
Scrub
P a r t
A :
W X
Water 36.2
A loe Vera Gel 1 . o
Germaben
I 1 1 . 8
Magnes i um A1 umi num S i 1 a t e ( 1
)
1 . o
P ar t B :
G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ( 2 ) 5 . 0
S a f f 1ower O i 1 0.5
Sesame O i l 0 . 5
H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 3 ) 0 . 5
P a r t C :
Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e ( 4 ) 2 0 . 0
Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 4 ) 1 8 . 0
Cocamide DEA
( 5 )
0 . 5
Cocamidopropy l Beta ine
6 ) 5 . 0
P a r t
D :
Acuscrub 44 10 .0
Procedure :
S lo w ly add t h i c ke n e r ( 2 ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s
u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . He at t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t
B
and P a r t
C i n g r e d i e n t s , t h en add t o P a r t
A ,
m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s .
A t 50C, m o d e r a t e l y add A cu s cr u b 44 and s t i r u n t i l s m oo th & u n i -
f o r m .
1 . Veegum
2 . Emerest 2350
3. Methocel 40-100
4 . S i pon
E S ,
Sipon LCP
5 .
Ninol 49-CE
6 . Lexa ine
C
Lot ion
Hand
Scrub
P a r t
A :
So di um C14-16 01e f Su l f o n a t e ( 1 ) 30.0
Cocamidopropy l Beta ine
(2)
6 . 7
Cocamide DEA (3 ) 2 . 0
G1 yc o l S t ea ra te
I
. o
Ammoni um Chl o r e 2 . 5
Germaben
I 1
0 . 8
Water 5 0 . 0
P a r t 8 :
H y d r o l y z e d A ni ma l P r o t e i n ( 4 ) 2 . 0
P a r t C :
Acuscrub 44 5 . 0
Procedure :
H ea t w a t e r t o 70C, t h e n s l o w l y a d d r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d -
i e n t s . C oo l t o 55C, ad d P a r t
0
w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add P a r t C w i t h
a g i t a t i o n an d m i x u n t i l homogeneous.
( 1 ) W i t c o n a t e AOS (3) N ino l 49-CE
(2)
L e x a i n e C (4 ) C r o t e i n SPA
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Su gg este d F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Beauty Aids 79
Low Cost, Extended Wear Lipstick
R e s u l t i n g l i p s t i c k has e x c e p t i o n a l s h i n e , a dh er en ce and
wear a t t r i b u t e s . When a p p l i e d t o l i p s , t h e f o r m u l a p ro du ce s
a comfor tab le non-waxy
f i l m ,
w h ic h r e s i s t s m i g r a t i o n and
f e a t h e r i n g . The shade o f t h i s fo r m ul a i s a c l ea n , t r u e , h i g h
chrom a r e d w i t h m od er at e o p a c i t y .
C as to r O i l NF (C ry s t a l 0)
C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75)
Carnauba Wax (S&P # 1 Y e l l ow 73 )
M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 18 )
Beeswax (S&P W h i te NF 422P)
Tocopherol (Copherol F-1300)
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P )
Buty lparaben (Lexgard B )
D&C
Red No. 6 Barium Lake, C I #15850:2 (C19-012)
D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, C I #15850:1 (C19-011)
FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 Aluminum Lake , C I #19140:1
C as to r
O i l
( C r y s t a l
0 )
(C65-4429)
61.66
8 . 3 0
2.05
4.20
1 . 8 7
0.12
0 . 0 8
0 . 0 5
1 .38
0 . 9 7
2.74
11 - 8 8
C . G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro ss po ly me r
Procedure:
1 . Combine sec t ion A h e a t i n g t o 9OC. M i x s l o w l y ( be s u r e n o t
t o e n t r a p a i r ) u n t i l t h e p hase i s c l e a r and homogeneous,
t h e n r ed uc e t e m pe r a tu r e t o 8 0 t o 85C. C o n t i n ue s lo w m i x i n g .
2 . D i sp e r se pi gm e nt s i n s e c t i o n B' l i n t h e ca s t o r o i l c on ta in -
ed i n Phase "Btr b y a d di ng t h e d r y p ig me nt s t o t h e c a s t o r o i l
and b l e n d i n g w i t h a s p a t u l a , t h e n d i s p e r s e u s i n g a Cowles
d i s s o l v e r and f i n a l l y pass t h e b le n d t hr ou gh a t h r e e r o l l e r
m i l l
t h r e e t i m e s or u n t i l t h e p a r t i c l e s i z e o f t h e p i g m e n t s
a r e l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge.
3. When sect ion B adequate1y d i spe rsed , add se c t i o n
B
t o s e c t i o n
A .
C o n ti n ue s lo w a g i t a t i o n and m a i n t a i n a
t e m pe r a tu r e o f 80 t o 85C.
4. When sect ions
A B
i s homogenous add se c t i o n C t o "AB".
M a i n t a i n a t e m pe r at u re o f 8 0 t o 85C and m i x s l o w l y u n t i l
homogeneous.
(Le xor ez 100) 4 .70
5 . M o ld s t i c k s a t 80-85C.
SOURCE: I n o l e x C hemi ca l CO. : F o r m u l a t i o n 3 9 8 - 1 5 2 - 1
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80 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
L o w Cost Lipstick
R e su l t in g l i p s t i c k i s a low c o s t f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t exh b i t s
good a p p l i c a t i o n c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s and i s c o m f o rt a b l e on 1 p s .
W e a ra b i l i t y o f t h e l i p s t i c k i s l i m i t e d . F ea th er in g and rn g r a t i o n
o f t h e l i p s t i c k f i l m w ou ld be expec ted . The shade o f t h i s
f o r m u la i s a c l e an , t r u e , h i g h chroma r e d w i t h m o de ra te o p a c i t y .
%w/w
A . C as to r O i l NF (C ry s t a l
0)
66.36
C a n d e l i l l a Wax
( S & P
75) 8 .30
Carnauba Wax ( S & P #1 Yel low 73) 2 .05
M ic r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 18) 4 .20
Beeswax ( S & P Wh it e NF 422P) 1 . 8 7
Tocophero l (Cophero l F -1300) 0 .12
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P )
0 . 0 8
B u ty l pa raben (Lexga rd 8) 0.05
8 . D&C Red No. 6 Barium Lake, C I #15850:2 (C19-012) 1 .3 8
D&C
Red No. 7 Calcium Lake,
C I
#15850:1 (C19-011) 0.9 7
FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 Aluminum L ake ,
C I
#19140:1
(C65-4429) 2.74
C as to r O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) 11 -8 8
Procedure :
1 . Combine sec t i on A h e at in g t o QOC. M i x s l o w l y ( b e s u r e
n o t t o e n t r a p a i r ) u n t i l t h e phase i s c l e a r and homogeneous,
t h a n r e d uc e t e m p e r a tu r e t o 80 t o 85C. C o n ti n ue s l ow m i x i n g .
2 . D is pe rs e p ig me nt s i n s e c t i o n 8 i n t h e c as to r o i l c on ta in ed
i n phase 0 b y ad din g t h e d r y p ig me nts t o t h e c a s t o r o i l
and b l e n d i n g w i t h a s p a t u l a , t h e n d i s p e r s e u s i n g a C ow le s
d i s s o l v e r a nd f i n a l l y pass t h e b le n d t h r ou g h a t h r e e r o l l e r
m i l l
t h r e e t im es o r u n t i l t h e p a r t i c l e s i z e o f t h e pigm en ts
a r e l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge.
3. When sect ion B i s a de q ua te ly d i s p e r s e d, add s e c t i o n 6 t o
s e c t i o n A . C o nt in u e sl ow a g i t a t i o n and m a i n t a i n a tempera-
t u r e o f 80 t o 85C.
4 . M o ld s t i c k s a t 80-85C.
Formula 398-152-2
Lip Ba lm
R e su l t i n g p ro du c t i s a p r o t e c t i v e l i p balm t h a t e x h i b i t s
e xt en de d wear. c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s due t o L ex or ez 100. The p roduc t
co u l d be po s i t i o ne d as an ove r t h e cou n te r (OTC) pha rmaceu t i ca l
s k i n p r o t e c t a n t w i t h p e t r o l a tu m as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t , and as
a s u ns c re e n, w i t h o c t y l m eth ox yc in na ma te a s t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t
%J&
Oc ty l Me thoxyc i nnama te (E sca l o l 557 ) 10 .00
P e t r o l a t u m
USP
(Super Whi te) 20.0 0
G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro s sp o ly m er
(Lexorez 100) 10.00
P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d) L an ol i n A l c o h o l ( L e x a t e P X ) 49.00
C a n d e l i l l a Wax ( S & P 75) 8 .00
Carnauba Wax ( S & P #1 Y e l l o w 73) 3 .00
Procedure:
1 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a nd h e a t t o 80C.
2 . M i x u n t i l homogeneous.
3 . Cool t o 65C and f i l l i n t o p r o p e l - r e p e l c o n t a in e r s .
SOURCE: I no l ex C hemi ca l Go.
:
Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
Formula 383-186
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BeauvAids 81
Makeup Foundation
T h i s r i c h , e l e g a n t f o u n d a t i o n i n c o r p o r a t e s Ge ahle ne 750 f o r
added m o i s t u r i z a t i o n and smooth a p p l i c a t i o n .
Ins red ien t /T rade Name:
Dei on i zed Water
Magnesium Aluminum Si l icate/Veegum U l t r a
Xakthan Gum/Kel t r o l
Ny lon- l2 /Org aso l 2002D Na tu ra l Ex t r a Cos
Sodi um P C A / A j ew N-50
Dei o ni zed Water
P ropy l ene G l yco l
I r o n
Ox i des (and ) T a I c /Lo M i c ron P i nk
I r o n Ox i des (and) T a l c / Lo M i c ron Y e l l ow
I r o n Ox i des (and ) T a l c / Lo M i c ron B l ack
T i a n i um O i ox i de/3328 T i a n i um D i ox id e
G ly ce ry l S tearate /Lexemul 55G
S t e a r i c Ac i d /Emerso l 132
DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol
Methy lparaben (and) Bu ty lpara ben (and)
E thy l pa raben (and ) P ropy l pa raben /N i pas ta t
I s o s t e a r y l Neopentanoate/Dermo l 185
M i n e r a l
O i l
(and) Hydrogenated Bu ty le ne /E th y lene /
Sty ren e Copolymer (and) Hydro genated Eth y le ne/
Pro pyl ene /St yre ne Copolymer/ /Geahlene 750
-
Phenoxyethanol /Emeressence
1160
Tocophero l Ace ta te /V i tamin E A ce ta te
Weight%
46.50
0.80
0 .30
1 . 2 0
1
. o o
10.00
7 .00
0 . 4 0
2 . 0 0
0 .15
5.60
2.00
2.00
2 . 0 0
0 . 2 5
3 . 0 0
15.00
0.70
0 . 1 0
Procedure:
M i x w e l l . Add t h e r e m a in i ng p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x i ng w e l l
a f t e r e ach a d d i t i o n . I n a s e p ar a te c o n t a i n e r , hom ogenize p a r t
B u n t i l sm ooth . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . H eat t o 8OC. M i x u n t i l
u n i f o r m . H eat p a r t C t o 8OC and mix u n t i l t h e s o l i d s a r e
d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A . M i x f o r
30
m in ut es u n t i l
homogeneous. Con t in ue mix in g and c o o l i n g
t o
35C.
SOURCE:
Penreco : Suggested For mu la t i on
D i s p e rs e Veegum U1 t r a t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed w a t e r .
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Beaury
Aids 83
Moisture Stick Base
M i n e r a l O i 1 80/90 V i
sc .
Ross Wax 26-1152
Ross
Wax 15-1 182
Ross Wax 1824
Jo j oba O i l
Amer la te
P
V i t a m i n E
%
47 .0
2 8 . 0
2 .0
1 0 . 0
2 . 0
10 .0
1 . o
Procedure:
M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o ge t he r i n a k e t t l e t o 170F under
a g i t a t i o n . When m ixed t ho rou gh l y pou r i n t o mo lds . C appi ng may
be necessary .
Cream Rouge Formula
P a r t
A :
Ross R e f in e d #1 Yel lo w Carnauba Wax
Ross O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W
M i n e r a l O i l
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
P a r t B:
T a l c
T i a n i um D i ox id e
C o l o r
%
6 . 0
1 0 . 0
2 4 . 0
27.0
10 .0
2 0 . 0
3 . 0
Procedure:
t h r e e r o l l
m i l l .
M e l t P a r t A t o 70C. When c o o l e d r u n t o g e t h e r w i t h P a r t
0
on a
Pot Eyeshadow
I n q r e d i e n t s :
M i n e r a l O i l 70/80
P e t r o l a t u m
Ross O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W
Ross Ref ed Candel 1 a L i ght F1akes
Pigment Paste
P r e s e r v a t i v e
%
40.0
15 .0
20.0
4 . 0
20.0
1 . o
Procedure:
G r i n d c o l o r w i t h o i l and p e t ro la tu m i n r o l l e r
m i l l .
Heat
waxes u n t i l m e l t e d an d ad d p ig m en t p a s t e . M a i n t a i n 85C f o r 30
m in ut es w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Pour i n t o m ol ds .
SOURCE: Frank
8 .
Ross
Co., I n c . : S uggested F o r mu l a t i o ns
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84 Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
Mois tu r izing L iposo m al Gel
I n a r e d ie n t s :
1 A) Cremophor
RH
410
2 F ragrance : PCV 1454
3 B )
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Water demi n e r a l ed
G l y c e r i n
N i
pag i n
P h y t a l u r o n a t e
F i o b r o s i de
A1 1 a n t o i n
Carbopol 941
T r i ethano lami ne
Euxyl K-200
% w / w
5,00
0,10
81,50
2,00
0,15
0,30
5,00
5,00
0,30
0,30
0,35
Procedure:
D i s s o lv e i t e m 2 i n i t em
1 .
D i s s o l v e i te m s 4-9 i n w a t er ( 3 ) .
Under s t i r r i n g , s l o w l y a dd phase B ) t o phase A ) . F o r t h i c k e n -
i n g , i n c o r p o r a t e and d i s s o l v e i t e m
10.
A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h i t e m
11 t o 7 . 0 . A t u r b i d , f l u i d s o l u t i o n i s o bt ai n ed .
A p p l i c a t i o n N o . D 018.A/02.93
Skin Tightening Gel
I
ar ed n ts
1
A )
W ate r dem i ne ra l i zed
2 Phenoni p
4 Glucam E-10
5 B ) Carbopol 940
6 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
7
C ) Pentacare
HP
Procedure:
3 Euxyl K-200
D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-4 i n w at er ( 1 ) .
S t i r
f a s t and i n c o r p o r a t e i t e m 5.
N e u t r a l i z e and t h i c k e n i t e m 6.
S l o w l y a d d i t e m
7.
A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 032.0 /06 .93
SOURCE:
Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested Form u la t i on s
% w/w
87
95
0;30
0,20
5,00
0,75
0,80
5,00
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Beauty
Aids
85
Moisturizing Make-Up Foundation
( A ) Ph os ph ol ip id SV
0 . 5 %
Kelzan
AR
i n
1%
NaCl
Propy lene G1 y c o l
Pigment (9/12 White/Brown)
S t e a r e t h - 2 0
Methy l Paraben
B)
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
H exy l Lau ra te
S t e a r e t h - 2
Dow F l u i d 200/100 c s .
Propy l Paraben
% B Y Weiaht
3 . 0
6 4 . 5
8 . 0
1 5 . 0
1 . 6
0 . 2 5
2 . 0
2 . 0
2 . 4
1 . o
0 . 2 5
Procedure:
55C. B le nd phase B i n t o phase A w i t h s u f f i c i e n t h om og en iz at io n
t o en su re good e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 40C, add f ra g ra n c e,
and package.
Comments:
T h i s l i q u i d f o u n d a t i o n i s enhanced b y t h e p re se nc e o f Phos-
p h o l i p i d E FA w hic h a i d s i n b i n d i n g t h e p ig men t
t o
s k i n f o r a
l on g er l a s t i n g a p p l i c a t i o n . F u rt he r b e n e f i t s o bt a i ne d by u s i ng
Phosphol i d EFA n c l ude a smooth, non-cha l ky app l a t i o n and
a n o n- dr y i ng a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n .
Combine i n g r ed i e n t s i n phases and B as shown and he at t o
Skin Cleanser
Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 1 mole 25%)
Monamate LNT-40
Monamid 716
Phosphol i d PTC
Water
Sodi um C h l o r i d e
% B y Weiaht
28.00
1 2 . 5 0
3 . 0 0
2.50
52 .75
1 .2 5
Procedure :
A d j u s t pH t o 5. 5- 6 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add c o l o r a nd f r a g r a n c e
as requ i red . P ackage .
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
B le nd i n g r e d i e n t s i n o rd e r l i s t e d a t room t em p er at ur e .
Ap pe aran ce: C l e a r l i q u i d
V i s c o s i t y : A p p r o x i m a t e l y
3 , 0 0 0
cps
SOURCE:
Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s
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88
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Non-Feathering Extended Wear Lipstick
o r tab l e non -w axy f i
n g. Droop p o i n t o f
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a mo ld ab le l i p s t i c k w i t h e x c e pt io n a l
s h i n e , a p p l i c a t i o n and e xt en d ed wea a t t r i b u t e s . When a p l i e d
m
he
t o l i p s , t h e f o r m u l a p r o du c es a corn
w hi ch r e s i s t s m i g r a t i o n and f e a t h e r
s t i c k i s a bove 43C.
QS t o
. C as to r O i l ( C r y s t a l 0)
C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75)
Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Ye l l o w 73 )
M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax ( S&P 18)
100
8 . 2 3
2 .07
4.19
Beeswax- (S&P W h it e NF-422P) 1. 08
G ly ce ry l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S te ar a t e (Lexemul 561) 1 .09
P e t r o l a t u m ( an d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ( L e x a t e PX) 2 .0 1
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 1 .0 8
O c t y l S t ea ra te (Le xo l EHS) 2 .06
P r o p y le n e G l y c o l D i c r a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ( L e x o l PG-865) 1 . 0 6
S i l i c a (Cab-0-Si1 M-5) 0 .13
P ropy l pa raben (Lexga rd P) 0 .08
B u t y l paraben (Lexgard B)
0.05
G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro ss po ly me r
(Lexo rez 100) 4.77
Tocophero l (Cophero l F -1300) 0 .1 2
B . Pigments 5.00-1'3.00
Procedure:
1 . Combine s u f f i c i e n t c a s t o r
o i l
f r o m s e c t i o n A w i t h p ig m en ts
2 .
D i s p e r se p i gm e n ts i n s t e p number 1, f i r s t w i t h a Cowles
i n s e c t i on lfB't i n a r a t i o o f a p pr ox im a te ly 2 p a r t s c a s t o r o i l
t o 1 p a r t p ig m en ts .
d i s s o l v e r , t h e n reduce t h e p igment p a r t i c l e s i z e t o l e s s t ha n
number 7 on a Haggeman gauge by p as si ng t h e di s p e r s i o n
t hr ou gh a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l .
3 . Combine t h e b a l an c e o f i n g r e d i e n t s i n s e c t i o n A , h e a t i n g
4 . B e g in a g i t a t i o n a s soon as waxes b e g i n t o m e l t . A g i t a t e
s l o w l y . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r .
5. When sect ion
A
i s homogeneous and a t 85-90C, add s e c t i o n
B l l
t o s e c t i on
A .
6. Pour i n t o mo lds a t 80-85C.
SOURCE: I n o l e x C hemical C o . : Formula
398-62-2
t o 85-9OC.
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Beauty
Aids 89
Oil/Water Matte Cream Makeup
Ingred n
t
s
A
Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 a t e
S od i um ca rboxyme thy l ce l l u l ose
Water , de i on i zed
B D i s p e r s i n g a g e n t
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
Water
C T a l c
K a o l i n
T i a n i um d i ox i d e
D I r o n o x i de s
I s o p r op y l m yr i s t a t e
2 .60
0 .40
42.40
0 .30
5.00
12.30
18.50
1.30
3 .70
1 . 5 0
5 . 0 0
E A r l a c e l 2 0 and Tween 20 3 . 0 0
F S te a r y l a l co ho l and A mer i chol 4 .00
Procedure:
u n t i l smooth. M i c r o p u l v e r i z e (C) a nd add t o ( B ) . M i l l t o o b t a i n
a smooth pa s te . Add (8 -C) t o (A ) and hea t t o 65C. Heat (D,E,F)
t o 70C and ad d t o (A,B,C ) b l e n d . M i x u n t i 1 c o o l .
B le nd d r y i n g r e d i e n t s
o f
( A ) and add t o wa te r s l o w l y a g i t a t i n g
Lip Balm
I n s r e d i e n t s :
A S y n t h e t i c S p e r m a c e t i
10 .00
P e t r o l a t u m 4 0 00
G1 yc e ro l mon ostea rate 26.00
C apry l /C ap r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e , N eobee M-5 13.60
Squalane, Robane 10.00
B A l l a n t o i n
Lemon o i l ,
USP
Mentho l
0.20
0 . 1 0
0 . 1 0
Procedure :
Pour i n m o ld s.
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s
M e l t ( A ) u n t i l u n i f or m . Add
( 6 )
a nd s t i r u n t i l homogeneous.
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9
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil-In-Water Milk Emulsion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a t o n e 9 8 5
B r i j 721
C apry l / cap r
t
r
1yce r es
Ar lamo l HD
B P r op y le n e g l y c o l
G-2330
Water
C * P r e s e r v a t i v e
*Perfume
* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .
o ow w
4.00
2 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
1
. 2 5
1 . 2 5
81 .50
Procedure :
s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e when e m u l s io n r e ac h es
ap pr ox im at e ly 40C. Add (C) be low 35C.
Formu la t i on F41-3 -2
H ea t ( A ) and ( B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( 8 ) t o ( A )
O il-In-W ater Milk Em ulsion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a t o n e 9 8 5
B r i j 721
Ar lamo l S 7
M in er al o i l
B G-2330
Water
%w/w
4.00
2 . 0 0
6 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
4.00
79.00
C * P r e s e r v a t i v e
*Perfume
* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
Heat
( A )
and (B) t o 70C se pa ra te l y . S l ow l y add (B ) t o (A)
s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e . Remove f r o m t h e
homogenizer and a l low
t o
c o o l
t o
35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C)
and co o l t o 30C. Package.
Formula F44-6-4
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Beauty
Ai&
91
One Coat Mascara
T h i s i s a l o n g w ea ri ng , n o n - f l a k i n g m asca ra w h ic h c o a t s t h e
l a s h e s e v e n l y i n one c o a t . The f o r m u l a t i o n s e p ar a te s l a s h e s
e a s i l y d u r i n g a p p l i c a t i o n and does n o t c lu mp . The f o r m u l a t i o n
does n o t f l a k e d u r i n g wear a nd has t h e a d d i t i o n a l b e n e f i t o f
w ashin g o f f e a s i l y w i t h o u t t h e need f o r t h e u se o f s p e c i a l eye
make-up removers o r h ars h sc ru bb in g.
%w/w
A .
Dei on i zed Water 57 .70
Col l o i d a l Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 a t e (Veegum H V ) 1.80
H y d r ox ye th y l ce l l u l os e (QP-15,000-H) 2 .70
Pigment (P ur Oxy Y e ll o w BC and Pur Oxy Bl a c k
BC)
8.95
Methy lparaben (Lexgard
M )
0.18
Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T ) 4.45
P ropy l pa raben (Lexga rd
P )
0.09
8 .
P V P / V A Copolymer ( L u v i s k o l 73W)
I m i d a z o l i n y l Urea (Germal l 115 )
T e t raso d iu m EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)
10.00
0 .20
0.08
C . G ly ce ry l S t ea ra te (Lexemul 515) 2 . 0 0
Beeswax N F (S&P White N F 422P) 4.75
G ly c e ry l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 St ea ra te (Lexemul 561) 3 .50
G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro ss po ly me r
(Lexorez 100) 3 . 5 0
S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e
N F
( A r l a c e l
60) 0.10
Procedure:
1 .
Combine A excep t f o r t h e p i gments and hea t t o 80-85C.
When temp era tu r e i s reached , homogen ize m ix tu re s lo w ly
a dd in g p i gments.
2 .
Combine l'C1' and hea t t o 80-85C. S l ow l y add t o
A .
3 . M i x AC f o r f i v e m in u te s . Add
r l B r l
t o A C and homogenize
f o r f i f t e e n m i nu t es on medium speed w h i l e c o o l i n g .
4. A t 60C t r a n s f e r b a t c h t o t a n k e qu ip pe d w i t h a d o u b l e - a c t i o n
s id e- sw ee p a g i t a t o r . M i x and c o o l t o r oom t e m p e r a tu r e .
5.
A d j u s t s o l i d s l e v e l t o 59.1+ -0.1% . S o l i d s were r u n i n a l l O C
oven f o r one hour .
SOURCE: Inolex Chemical
Co.
: F o r m u l a t i o n 383-185
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92
Cosmetic
and Toiletry
Formulations
o f h e a l t hy
p r o v id e mo
Overnight Facial Moisturizer
A p ow e rf u l m o i s t u r i z e r d es ig ne d t o r e s t o r e t h e normal s t a t e
s k i n . The h i g h s u b s t a n t i v i t y t ow ar ds s k i n h e l p s t o
s t u r e r e g u la t i o n .
P a r t A :
Phosphol
G l y c e r i n
Water
P a r t B :
S t e a r e t h - 2
PEG-32
d EFA
C et e ar y l A1 coho1
C e t y l P a l m i t a t e
M y r i s t y 1 M y ri s t a t e
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
D i meth i cone ( 1OOcS)
% by Weigh t
4 . 0 0
2 .00
2 .00
73.00
2 .50
4 .00
4 . 0 0
4.00
3 . 0 0
1
. 50
B l end and he a t bo th phases se pa ra te l y t o 70C. Homogenize ( B )
i n t o ( A) w i t h c o nt i nu e d h e at
f o r
an a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e w h i l e
a v o i d i n g a e r a t i o n . S t i r - c o o l t o 45-50C, t h e n add f r a g r a n c e ,
c o l o r i n g , o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d and
f i l l .
Moisturizing Make-Up Foundation
An e l e g a n t p r o d u c t c o n t a i n i ng Phosphol i d EFA which pr ov id es
smooth f e e l a nd c ov er ag e w h i l e e l i m i n a t i n g t h e no rm al d r y i n g
e f f e c t s
o f
c o s m e t i c p ig m e nt s on s k i n .
P a r t A :
Phosphol i d EFA
0 .5% K e l zan A R i n 0 .1% NaCl
Pigment
S teare th -20
Methy l Paraben
P a r t
8:
I s op r o py l M y r i s t a t e
H e x y l L a u r a t e
S t e a r e t h - 2
D imethy lpo lys i l oxane (2OOcS)
Propy l Paraben
Oh
By Weisht
3 . 0 0
72.50
15 .00
1 . 8 0
0 . 2 5
2 .00
2.00
2 .40
1 . o o
0 . 2 5
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h ph as es s e p a r a t e l y a nd h ea t t o
65C. Homogenize Part A t ho rough ly . Add ( B ) t o ( A) a nd c o n t i n u e
t o homogenize. S t i r - c o o l , w i t h mi ni ma l a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, t h e n
f i l l .
SOURCE:
Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : PHOSPHOLIPID EFA: Suggested
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Beauty Aids
93
O/W Cleansing Mi lk
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a t o n e 9 8 5
B r i j 721
A r l amo l
HD
B At las G-2330
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
Water
C Perfume
4 . 0 0
2 .00
10.00
3 . 0 0
80.90
0 . 1 0
* q . s .
t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m i n u t e . A l l o w
t o cool
t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add ( C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g .
Package.
Heat (A) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( B ) t o ( A )
W/O Cleans ing Mi lk
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
A r l ace l 780
Arlamol S7
Ar lamol
HD
B
Arlas G-2330
MgS04.
H20
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
Water
C Perfume
?g yy
6.00
6.00
10.00
4 . 0 0
0 .70
73.15
0.15
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Heat (A) and
( B )
t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( 8 ) t o ( A )
Procedure:
s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r o ne m i n u t e . A1 l o w
t o c oo l t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add ( C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g .
Package.
SOURCE: I C 1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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94 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Cleansing Mi lk
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
P a r a f f i n o i l p e r l i qu id u m
A r l amo l
E
B A r l a tone 2121
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
G l y c e r o l
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
C Water
Carbomer 934
( 3 %
w / w m a s t e r g e l )
D *NaOH (10% w / w s o l u t i o n ) t o a d j u s t pH t o 6 .5 -7
E *Perfume
* q . s .
t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w
1 5 . 0 0
3 . 0 0
2 .00
1 . 2 5
1 .25
7 2
50
5 . 0 0
Procedure:
M i x t h e A r l a t on e 2121 i n t h e w a te r phase a t 80C under modera te
s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogenous d i s p e r s i o n i s form ed. D is p er se t h e
h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e at ed w a te r phase a t 75C w i t h mod era te s t i r -
r i n g . Add t h e o i l phase ( R T ) t o t h e wa te r phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g
i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogenise t h e m i x tu re be tw een 7 5 and 65C. E ne rg y
i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . A l l ow t o co o l
t o 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogenise a g a i n i f a dd in g a d d i t i o n a l
i n g r e d i e n t s . e .
g .
pe r fume , v i t am i ns ,
.
. .
. .
.
D ry Skin
Oil
with Alcohol
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A r l a c e l 1 8 6
A r l amo l E
Et ha no l , SDA-40, (190 P ro o f )
Cyc lometh icone
%w/w
30.00
30.00
30.00
10.00
Procedure:
warm t h e A r la ce l 186 t o a ch ie ve c l a r i t y b e f o r e m i x in g .
Formula C P 1049
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
M ix a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w e l l a t room t e m pe r a tu r e .
I f
necessary
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BeautyAids
95
Petroleum Oil/Petroleum Wax Free Lipstick
T h is l i p s t i c k i s a creamy s t i c k t h a t d o e s n ' t use any p e t r o l -
eum o i l s o r waxes i n t h e f o r m u l a n o r do es
i t
u se any s y n t h e t i c
raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t has p e t ro l eu m base p r o d u c t s i n i t .
O i l Phase I
1. Ke st er Wax 100 ( K o s te r Keunen)
2 . C a n d e l i l l a (K os te r Keunen)
3
Hydroxy Po ly es te r (Ko s te r Keunen)
4. He xa ne dio l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen)
5. Cocoa But ter
6 . Shea But ter (Koster Keunen)
7 . Squalane (Centerchem)
8 . R i ce B ran
O i l
(Koster Keunen)
9 .
O c t y l Pa l m i ta t e ( I n o l ex )
10.Coconut
O i l
( A l n o r )
11 . V i t a m i n E (BASF)
1 2 . V i t a m i n A Palmi ta te (BASF)
13.Wheat Germ O i l ( L i p o )
14.Sweet Almond O i l ( L i p o )
15 . I so p ro py l P a l m i t a te (Un ichema)
1 6 . 0 y s t e r N u t O i l (Koster Keunen)
17 .C as to r O i l (Caschem)
18 .E t ho xy la t ed Carnauba (K os te r Keunen)
19 .0 ra ng e Wax (K o st e r Keunen)
20 .T i02
(WC&D)
21.Z-Cote (Sunsmar t )
22. Pigment
23. Bet a G lucan 15% Coarse (K os te r Keunen)
6.00
7 .00
3 .70
4 . 0 0
3 . 0 0
4.50
1.50
4.00
3 .00
5 .50
0.10
0.10
1.50
1 .50
15.50
1 . 5 0
20.00
1 .30
5.50
2 .50
5.00
2 . 8 0
0.50
Procedure :
Add 20 ,21 and 22 t og e t he r . To t h e m i x tu re o f p i gmen ts add
17, 18, and 19, he at t i l l e v e r y th i n g i s d i sp e r se d . Add t h e r e s t
o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s e x c ep t t h e B e t a G l uc a n . The B e t a G lu c an w i l l
be added l a s t t o t h e b at ch , j u s t b e f o r e p o u r i ng i n t o t h e mo ld s.
A da pt io n o f f or mu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
W i t h
t h e
i n c r e a s e o r d e c r e a s e
of
o i l s an d /o r waxes one c o u l d
c r e a t e a s t i c k t h a t i s c ream ie r
o r
h a r d e r .
SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Form u la t i on s
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96 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pressed Powder Eye Shadow
Pearlescent Type)
I n G r e d i e n t s :
( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e
( N F
grade)
( 2 ) Mearl n-AC
3 ) Kaopol i te TLC
( 4 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e ( f i n e g ro un d)
( 5 ) Magnesium Carbonate
6 ) A c e t o l
7 ) P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0
8 ) Deion ized Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure:
"/.by Weight
5 . 0
Dry mix ( l ) , ( 2 ) , 3 ) ,
(4),
and ( 5 ) . I n s e pa ra te t a n k ,
t h o r o u g h l y m i x
6 ) ,
( 7 ) ,
and
8 ) .
Then s l ow l y add t h i s m ix
3 5 . 0
29 .0
8 . 0
1 . o
3 . 0
9 . 0
0 0
q . s
u r e
t o t h e d r y m i x . S cr ee n t h r o u g h a No. 16 s i e ve and p re ss .
p roduc t used .
Fo l l ow recommended h an d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each
Face Mask
n a r e d i e n t s :
1 ) De ion ized Water
2 )
B e n t o n i t e (NF g rade )
( 3 ) K a o l i n USP
( 4 )
I s o p r o p y l A l c o h o l
( 5 )
Lanol in (PEG 5 0 )
6 ) Gl yc e r y l S te a r a t e (Emeres t 2000)
( 7 ) Dimeth icone
( D o w
Corn ing 200)
( 8 ) Phenoxyethanol (Emmenessence)
(9) Methy l Paraben
(10)Propy l Paraben
% bv Weight
3 6 . 7
8 . 0
4 0 . 0
10.0
0 . 5
1 . 5
1 . 5
1 . 5
0 . 2
0 . 1
Procedure:
Add ( 2 ) t o
( 1 )
and he a t t o SOC, add ( 9 ) and (1 0 ) u n t i l
d i s s o l v e d . Add ( 5 ) , 6 ) ,
( 7 ) ,
and
8 ) .
Cool and add ( 4 ) w i t h
good m i x i n g u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Add ( 3 ) and c on t i n ue h i gh speed
m i x i ng u n t i l c o mp le te ly u n i f or m .
each product used.
f 1
ammab le i ng red ien ts .
SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a ti o n s
F o l l o w recommended han d l i ng p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u ld be use d when h a n d l i n g
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BeautyAids
97
Pressed Powder Eyeshadow
Phase A :
T a l c
Z i n c S t e a r a t e
Carmi ne
Gemtone Mauve Quartz
F lamenco Super Blue
A n t i m i c r o b i a l
Phase B :
A n t i o x i d a n t
Squal ane
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l
Phase
C :
Flemenco Super Blue
S/oWt
40.40
4 . 0 0
2 .00
1 9 . 0 0
12 .60
a . s
q . s .
5 .00
7 . 0 0
1 0 .0 0
Procedure:
T ho roughl y b l en d and d i s pe rs e A . Add B i n t o a su pp o rt v e s s e l ,
h e a t and mi x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S p ra y
B
i n t o p re mix ed
A
and con t i nue
b l e n d i n g . P u l v e r i z e and r e t u r n t o b l e n d e r . Add C t o A - B and mix
u n t i 1 u n i f or m .
Molded Eye Shadow
Polytetrafluorethylene-treated
mica
Mica
T i
an: urn-di o x i de-co ated mica
C o l o r a n t
D i m et h yl p o l y s i
1
oxane
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1
G l y c e ry l t r i o c t a n o a t e
Fragrance
E thano l
Cosmetic Aerosol Foam
PEG-2 s t e a r y l e t he r
PEG-10 s t e a r y l e th e r
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l
O i 1
I s o p r op y l p a l m i t a t e
Oc ty l dodecano l
C e t y l A 1 coho1
Water
Pro pel 1 ant=N20
%Wt.
5 0 . 0
27 .0
1 0 . 0
3 . 0
4 . 0
3.0
3.0
0 . 1
q
*
s . 100 .0
4.50%
1.50
7 . 0 0
7 . 0 0
6 . 5 0
0 . 5 0
q s
t o 1 00 .0 0
SOURCE:
W i tco C o rp . : P e tro leum S p e c i a l t i e s G roup : S uggested
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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98
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Pressed Powder with 1% Eldew
I n g r e d i e n t :
T a l c S up ra A
N y l on
12
L e c i t h i n T re at ed S e r i c i e
L e c i t h i n T r e a te d Mi ca
La ur oy l L y s i ne/Ami hope LL
Z i n c S t e a r a t e
I s o p r o p y l L an ol a t e
H y d r o x yl a t e d L an ol i n
I s o p r op y l I s o s t e a r a t e
Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroy l G lu tamate /
Eldew
CL-301
B u t y l S t e a r a t e
Germal l
I 1
Methy lparaben
P ropy l pa raben
Cosmetic Brown
3277
Cosmetic Brown 1985
Cosmetic Brown 1654
D & C Red 30 Lake
Pressed Powder with
3%
Eldew
I n p r e d i e n t :
T a l c S up ra
A
N y l on 12
L ec i t h i n T r e at ed S e r i c i e
L e c i t h i n T r e at e d M ic a
La ur oy l Lys ine/Ami hope LL
Z i n c S t e a r a t e
I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e
H y d r o x yl a t e d L an ol i n
I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e
Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroy l G lu tamate /
Eldew CL-301
B u t y l S t e a r a t e
Germal l
11
Methy lparaben
P ropy l pa raben
Cosmetic Brown
3277
Cosmetic Brown
1985
Cosmetic Brown
1654
D
& C
Red
30
Lake
%
bv Weight
53.54
10.00
10.00
10.00
5.00
3.00
2.70
1.50
1.20
1
. o o
0.60
0.30
0.20
0.10
0.34
0.32
0.18
0.02
%
bv Weight
52.49
9.80
9.80
9.80
4.90
2.94
2 65
1.47
1.18
2.95
0.59
0.29
0.20
0.10
0.33
0.31
0.18
0.02
SOURCE:
A j i nomo to
USA,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Beaury Aids 99
Prolonged Skin Moisturizer
Emulsion Pha*
Spermacet i
Beeswax
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l
Beheny l a l coho l
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
E l a s t i n h y dr o l y sa t e
1 , 3 b u t y l e n e g l y c o l
C a r b o x y m e t h y l c h i t i n
Water
L i posome Phase :
Soy l e c i t h i n
S p h i n g o g l y c o l i p i d s
P h y t o s t e r o l
G1 y c e r i n e
V i t a m i n A
3 . 0 0 %
2 .00
15.00
5 .00
0 . 3 0
2 . o o
1 0 . 0 0
0.50
53.20
2 . 0 0
1
. o o
0 .50
5 . 0 0
Skin Lightening Composit ion
Polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene
c e t y l e t h e r
1.00%
S i l i c o n e o i l 2 .0 0
B l a n d o l M i n e r a l
O i l
3 . 0 0
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
5 . 0 0
E - A m i n o c ap r o i c a c i d 1 . 0 0
G l y c e r i n
2 . 0 0
E t h y l a l c o h o l 5 . 00
Carbomer 0 .3 0
H yd ro x yp ro p yl c e l l u l o s e 0 . 10
2-Aminomethylpropanol
0 . 1 0
A sc o rb ic a c i d d i s u l f a t e -s o d i u m s a l t
1
. o o
P r e s e r v a t i v e , a n t i o x i d a n t , f r ag r a nc e q . s .
Water
q . s .
t o 1 0 0 . 0 0
Three Layer Facial Moisturizer
Sodium p y r r o l i d o n e c a r b o x y l a t e (50 %)
G1 y c e r i n
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e g l y c e r y l m on oo le at e
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1
10.00%
20.00
20.00
5 0 , O O
SOURCE: Wi tco Corp . : P e t ro l eum S p e c i a l t i e s G roup : S uggested
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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100 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Puri fying Clay Face Mask
T h is p r od uc t removes imbedded i m p u r i t i e s wh ich smoothes sk in ,
c l e a n s p o r es , b r i n g s a gl ow and removes d u l l i n g c e l l s f o r a
f i n e r t e x t u r e
s o
s k i n h as a r a d i a n t g lo w .
Phase
A :
Magnab r i t e S ( W h i t t a k e r & D)
Xan tha n Gum (K e lk o )
Water ( D i s t i l l e d )
G l yce r i n (U n i chema)
A l oe V era Gel (A c t i v e Organ i cs )
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l (A rc o)
Tween 60 (G a l l a rd S ch l e s i ng e r )
Methy l Paraben (Su t ton)
Phase
0:
E m u ls i f y in g Wax
NF
(Koster Keunen)
C e ty l s t e a r y l A l coho l (P&G)
Ke st er Wax K-48 (S pe rm ac et i , Ko st er Keunen)
Propy l Paraben (Su t ton)
Phase C:
Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax: K ost er Keunen)
Green Chromium Ox ide (Sun Ch em ica l)
T i
an: urn D i ox id e (Whi t t a k e r C&D)
Phase
D :
T i a n i um D i o x i d e (Whi t t a k e r C&D)
V a n c l a y ( V a n d e r b i l t )
4.5%
0 .2 %
63.2%
4.0%
0 . 5 %
1 . 5
0 .6%
0 .5%
5.0%
0.5%
2.0%
0.5%
4 . 5
0.5%
2.0%
4 . 0
6.0%
Procedure:
Heat and mix t i l l homogeneous, Phase A t o 80C. Heat and mix
Phase 6 t o 80C. Heat and mix Phase
C t i l l
p i g m e n t s a r e d i s p e r s e d .
Mix Phase
6
wi th Phase C, add BC t o A a t 80C un de r a g i t a t i o n .
When e m u ls i f i e d , s p r i n k l e a mixed Phase D i n t o ABC a n d c o n t i n u e
m i x i n g
t i l l
t h o r o u gh l y d i sp e rs ed , a l l o w t o co o l w h i l e m i x i n g .
Pour a t 55-60C.
A da pt io n o f f o rm u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e o n t h e p r o du c t :
Changes i n c l a y c o n c e n t r a t i o n will r ed uc e o r i n c r e as e d r y i n g
t i m e on t h e s k i n , w hi ch a l s o changes t h e r e s p e c t i v e p u r i f y i n g
q u a l i t i e s t ow ar d t h e s k i n . M o i s t u r i z i n g ag en ts and or o t h e r
a c t i v e s c an be added t o e nhance t h e p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s p r o d u c t .
SOURCE: Ko st er Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Beauty Aids
101
Slenderizing Cream with Green Tea Extract
T h i s s l e n d e r i z i n g c ream i n c o r p o r a t e s P h y t ' i o d and I o d o b i o 45.
T h is l i p o l i t i c p r o du c t de ve lo ps an e l e c t i v e m e ta b ol ic a c t i o n a t
t h e l e v e l o f a d ip o cy te s th ro ug h t h e i n h i b i t i o n o f t h e phospho-
d i es t e r a se . T h is i n h i b i t i o n b l o c k s t h e d eg ra d at io n
o f
t h e c y c l i c
AMP
which i s i nd i s pe n sa b l e t o t h e p r o t e i n k i na se a c t i v a t i o n .
The k i n a s e p r o t e i n s a c t i v a t e t h e l i p a s e w hi ch t r i g g e r a de gr ad -
a t i o n o f t h e t r i g l y c e r i d e s i n t h e a d ipose c e l l i n t h e fo rm
o f
f a t t y a c i d s and g l y c e r o l and t h e n e l m i n a t e d .
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A . Uni t ina KD-16
Eumulgin B- 1
Lexo l I P M
C a r n a t io n w h i t e
m i
n e r a l o i 1
Tocophero l
T r i s e p t P
B . Deion ized Water
T r i s e p t M
C .
I v y E x t r a c t
Seaweed Extract
Orga ni c S i 1 c o n
D . Deion ized Water
I odob i o 45
Green Tea E x t r a c t
T r i s e p t I U
E.
Deion ized Water
F. P h y t ' i o d
%
16.00
1 . o o
8.00
6.00
0.01
0 .10
48.49
0 . 2 0
3 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
1
. o o
6.00
2 . 0 0
1 . 0 0
2.00
0.20
3.00
Procedure :
A t o 8 . A t 50C, add phase C . D i s s o l v e I o d o b i o 45 i n w a t e r .
A t
40C, add phase D, E and F.
Heat phase A and B t o 75-80C. Under p r o pe r a g i t a t i o n , a d d
Amidroxy Sugar Cane Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A .
Ci rami N
1
Jo j oba O i l
Sun f 1 ower
O i
1
T r i s e p t P
8. De ion ized Water
T r i s e p t M
C . Tensami 3/06
D. Tocophero l
E . Amidroxy Sugar Cane
F. G r a p e f r u i t E s s e n t i a l O i l
%
11.50
10.00
5 .00
0.10
61 - 9 4
0 . 1 5
3 .00
0 .0 1
8 .00
0 .30
Procedure:
p r o p e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ph ase C . A t 35C-40C add pha se D, phase
E
and phase F. M i x t o room t e m p e r a tu r e . A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 50 .
SOURCE : T R I - K I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Code
A M I
S ugges ted F o rmu l a t i ons
Heat phase A and phase B t o 70C. Add phase A t o phase B w i t h
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1 2
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Soothing Body Gel
A c l e a r , v i s co us g e l w i t h m i c r o e nc a p s u l at e d V i t a m i n
E
des igned
t o p r o v id e s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g a nd s o ot h in g p r o p e r t i e s .
In ar ed ie nt /T ra de Name: Weiaht%
A
M i n e r a l
O i l
(and) Hydrogena ted Bu ty len e /E thy lene /
Styr ene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Eth y len e/
Pro pyl ene /Sty ren e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 78.82
B Cyclometh icone /Dow Corn in g 344 F l u i d 7 .00
B i s a b o l o l , s y n t h e t i c
0 .30
Methoxypropanediol/Cooling Agent No. 10
0 . 5 0
Fragrance
0 .15
Mentho l
0 . 0 3
Corn
O i l
( an d) R e t i n y l P a l m i t a t e / V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e
Sunf lower O i l (and) Chamomile Ext rac t /C ham om i le L S
0 . 5 0
C12-15 A1 k y l Ben zoa te/ F in so l v TN 10.00
t y p e
P I MO/ B H
0 .10
C
Macademi a Nut
O i
1 R e f in e d Macademi a Nut
O i
1 2.00
Propy lparaben 0 .10
D T ocophe ro l A ce ta te (and ) A cac i a (and ) Ge l a t i n
( an d) M i c a (a n d ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( an d) I r o n
Ox ides / /M i c roencapsu l a t ed V i t a m i n E HC487 0.50
Procedure :
Premix B . Add B t o A w h i l e m i x i n g a t mode ra te speed . H ea t
C t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add C t o A . Mi x u n t i l comp l e te l y homo-
geneous. Add D ( pre-washed w i t h anhyd rous e t ha no l ) and ge n t l y
m ix i n t o A u n t i l u n i f o r m l y d is pe r se d .
SOURCE: Penreco : Suggested Fo rm u l a t i on
Anhydrous Deep Penetrating Gel
S im ple b u t e f f e c t i v e i s a way t o d e s cr i be t h i s q u i c k pene-
t r a t i n g p ro du c t . Use o f t h i s g e l
w i l l
d i m i n i s h t h e s i gn s o f
a gi ng b y c o n d i t i o n i n g and t r e a t i n g t h e s k i n w i t h a n t i - i n f l a m ma -
t o r y a g e nt s . The a c t i v i t y comes fr o m p h y t o s t e r o l s and b i o f l a v -
o n i d e s i n o ra n ge wax. These c l a s s o f c h e m i c a l s a r e a l s o s t r o n g
a n t i - o x i d a n t s w h i c h w i l l scavenge f r e e r a d i c a l s t h e r e b y p r e v e n t -
g p o t e n t i a1 p r e ma t u re a g i n g .
S i l i c o n e O i l 556 56.0%
I P P (Unichema) 5.0%
Cera A lb a la te 103 (K os te r Keunen) 14 .0%
Squa lane (P o l ye s t he r ) 10 .0%
A p r i c o t
O i l
( A r i s t a )
2.0%
Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 10.0 %
V i t . A Pa lm i t a t e (Roche) 0 .5%
V i t . E
(BASF) 0.5%
C a n d e l i l l a Wax (K os te r Keunen) 2.0%
Procedure:
M e l t a nd m i x a l l c om po ne nts t o 70C, c o o l t o 60C a nd p o ur i n t o
c o n t a i n e r .
A d ap t i on o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f lu e m c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
T r i g l y c e r i d e o i l s can o n l y be use s p a r in g l y , s i n c e i n c or p o r -
a t i o n a t any s i g n i f i c a n t c o nc e n tr a t i o n w i l l d e st ro y t h e g e l l i n g
p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e Hydroxy-Hexanyl-Behenyl-Beeswaxate (Cera
A l b a l a t e 1 03 ). Cera A l b a l a t e 103 i s a h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e g e l l i n g
a ge nt f o r v e ry lo w v i s c o s i t y o i l s , as i s i n d i c a t e d above.
SOURCE:
Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rm u la t i o n
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BeautyAids 1 3
Stick Type Lip Gloss
Mater 1 s
:
1 . Oz ok e r i t e W h it e 170
2 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax L i g h t R e f i n e d
3 .
Carnauba Wax Ye l l o w
U S P
#1
4. Ceraphy l
50
5 Lanogene
6 . Aceto l 1706
7 . F l e x r i c i n 9
8 .
Bentone Gel CAO
9. Lexol PG 8/10
1 0 . I s op r o p y l M y r i s t a t e
11. Pr op yl Paraben
12.Tenox 4
13 .P igment Concen t ra te*
14 .F rag rance
*P igment Concent ra te :
C as to r O i l
D&C Red #21 Aluminum Lake
Co sm et ic Brown C-33 115
% b y
Wei q h t
7 . 5
9 . 5
2 . 5
3 . 0
5 . 0
1 1 . 5
1 0 . 0
27.5
12 .8
5 . 0
0 . 1
0 . 1
5 .0
0 . 5
75.00
15.00
10 .00
M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 12 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d
k e t t l e . Heat t o
8 5 C
u n t i l m e lt ed c l e a r .
2 . B r i n g t empera tu re down t o 80C. Add and m i x i n i t e m 13 us i n g
homomixer a t medium speed. Mi x f o r 10 min ute s a t 80C.
3 . Con t in ue mi x i ng a t medium speed, l ower tempe ra tu re t o 70C, and
add i t e m 1 4 . Remove h e a t and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l c o n ge a le d , o r
pour i n t o t r a y s .
s lo w a g i t a t i o n ( a v o id a i r e nt ra pm en t) .
N ot e: F o r a s h in y p o l i s h e d s u r f a c e on t h e l i p - g l o s s , t h e
s t i c k s s h o ul d be s u r f a c e f l am e d .
4 . When ca s t i n g , m e l t and pour mo l ten mass i n t o mo ld a t 75C w i t h
P igment C oncen t ra te P rep a r a t i on
1 . W eigh d r y powder and m ix t o t h e cas to r o i l us i ng a s low speed
2 . G iv e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e tw o p asse s o v e r a 3 r o l l e r m i l l a t room
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Formu la T S - 2 8 6
H ob ar t t y p e m i x t u r e u n t i l u n i f o rm .
t e m p e r a t u r e .
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1 4
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Thickening Mascara
T h i s i s a l o n g w e ar in g , n o n - f l a k i n g a nd t h i c k e n i n g mascara
f or mu la . T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e f f o r t l e s s l y , s ep ar at es l as h e s
w e l l and does no t smear o r c lump . The f o rm u l a t i on does no t f l a k e
d u r i n g wear a nd h as t h e added b e n e f i t o f w a sh in g o f f e a s i l y
w i t ho u t t h e need o f s pe c i a l eye make-up removers o r ha rsh
s c r u b b i n g .
A . Deion ized Water
56.95
Col 1o i d a l Magnesi um A1 umi num
S i
1 a t e (Veegum
HV) 1 .8 0
H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (QP 15,000-H) 2.70
Xanthan Gum (K e l t r o l T ) 4.45
Pigment (Pur Oxy Yel low BC and Pur Oxy Black
BC)
8.95
Meth y lpara ben (Lexg ard M) 0.18
Propy lparaben (Lexgard
P)
0 . 0 9
B. PVP/VA Copolymer ( L u v i s k o l 73W)
I m i dazo l i ny l U rea (Ge rma l l 115)
Tet rasod ium
EDTA
(Hamp-ene Na4)
10.00
0.20
0 . 0 8
C . Gl yce ry l S tea ra te (Lexemu l
515) 2.25
Beeswax NF (S&P White N F 422P) 5.25
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( an d) PEG-100 Steara te (Lexemul
561) 3.50
G1 y c e r i n /D i e t hy le ne G1 yc o l /Ad i pa te Cross pol ymer
(Lexorez 100) 3.50
S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e N F ( A r l a c e l
6 0 )
0.10
Procedure :
1 .
Combine “ A “ e xc ep t f o r t h e p ig me nt s and h e a t t o
80-85C.
When
t e m p e r a tu r e i s r e a ch e d, h om og en ize m i x t u r e s l o w l y a d d in g
p igments .
2 . Combine “ C ” and h ea t t o 80-85C. S l o w ly add t o ” A “ .
3 . M i x
”A C ”
f o r f i v e mi nu te s . Add l r B ” t o ” A C ” and homogenize
f o r f i f t e e n m i n u te s on medium speed w h i l e c o o l i n g .
4 .
A t
60C t r a n s f e r b at ch t o t a n k e qu ip pe d w i t h a d o u b l e - a c t i o n
s id e- sw ee p a g i t a t o r . M i x an d c o o l t o room t e m p e r a tu r e .
5. A dj us t s o l i d s l e v e l t o 53.2%+-0.1%. S o l i d s were r u n i n a
11OC
oven f o r one hou r .
SOURCE: I n o l e x Ch em ica l Co, : F o r m u l a t i o n 383-198
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Beauty Aids
105
Thigh Sl imm ing Cream
The f o l l o w i n g f o r m ul a i s used f o r d e v e lo p in g t h i g h s l im m i ng
and a n t i - c e l l u l i t e creams. The f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n i s 0 .50%
Nat ura l Cocoa E x t r a c t and 0 .50% Caf fe in e wh ich a r e encap su la te d
i n u n i l a m e l l a r and m u l t i l a m e l l a r l ip o so m es . They a r e f o r m u l a t e d
t o t a r g e t subcutaneous f a t t i s s u e .
A
s i m i l a r f o rm u la can
u t i 1 e ami n op hy l e a s t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t .
I n a r e d i e n t :
A . Deion ized Water
Carbopol 940
G l y c e r i n
Ke la te 220
T r i s e p t M
Tween 80
Dow C o r n i n g 2501
Dow Corning 193
B .
L a n e t t e 1 6
Kukui Nut O i l
Emersol 132
B u t y l S t e a r a t e
B u ty l a te d H yd roxy T ol uene
Emerest 2717
Lexol I P P
Dow C or ni n g 200 (5 0 c p s )
C . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
Deion ized Water
%
69.06
0 .40
1 . 5 0
0 . 1 0
0.20
1
. o o
1 . 5 0
1 . o o
1.25
3 .50
2 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
0.10
1 .50
1 . o o
1 . o o
0 . 8 0
5 .00
D .
T r i s t a t
I U
0 . 2 5
E . Liposome of 6% Cocoa Ex t r a c t 8 6% C a f f e i ne C oncen t ra te 8 .34
Procedure:
U si ng mo de ra te p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , s p i n k l e C arb op ol 940
i n t o Phase
A
and mi x u n t i l f u l l y h y d r a t e d . Add r e m a i n in g Phase
A i n g r ed i e n t s . H eat Phase A and Phase B t o 65C-7OC. Wi th pr op -
e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , add Phase B t o Phase A . When uniform, add
Phase C . A t 55C-60C, add Phase
D .
Add Phase E a t 35C, m i x i n g
s l ow l y u n t i
1
u n i f o r m .
SOURCE: TRI-K I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Code B i o z o n e
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1 6
Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
Ultra Rich Hand and
B o d y
Nourisher
Veegum U l t r a t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h i s creamy, o i l - i n - w a t e r
e m u l s io n p r e p a r e d u s i n g a n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i e r s ys te m. I t
f e a t u re s t h e " d ry t ou ch " a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s t y p i c a l o f
f o rmu l as co n t a i n i ng Veegum. P a lm i t oy 1 h yd ro l yz ed an i mal p r o t e i n
f u n c t i o n s as an a n t i - i r r i t a n t t h a t complements t h e g ro up o f
o i l phase e m o l l i e n t s . Veegum U l t r a w h i t e ns and b r i g h t e n s t h i s
c o sm e t ic f o r m u l a and a d j u s t s t h e pH t o a p p r ox i ma t e t h a t o f
no rma l s k i n .
I n a r e d i e n t : % bv W t .
Veegum U l t r a (Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1
i
a t e )
1.50
Dei on i zed Water
G1 y c e r i n
Aloe Vera Gel
(2)
P a l m i t o y l H y d r o ly z e d An im al P r o t e i n ( 3 )
C e t y l E s t e r s (4)
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE ( 5 )
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e
P o l y s o r b a t e 40
P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e
(2)
V e r a g e l L i q u i d
(3)
L i p a c i d e PCO
(4) Crodamol SS
( 5 )
Kessco GMS-24SE
79.00
3 . 0 0
2.00
1
. o o
1 . o o
2 .50
5 . 0 0
2.25
2.75
q . s .
Procedure:
H ea t t h e w a te r t o 55C. Add Veegum U l t r a s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i ng
a t 700 rpm w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r . I n cr e a se m ix er t o 1500-1700
rpm and m i x f o r 30 m i nu tes w h i l e ma i n ta i n i n g t empera tu re a t 55C.
Add B t o A and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . H ea t
C
t o 6OC and add t o ( A
and
6 ) .
Mi x
( A , B
and C) f o r 30 m i nu tes . A vo i d a i r en t rapmen t.
Slow m i x e r t o
1000
rpm and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C. Add D and
m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package.
P ro d uc t C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s :
V i s c o s i t y :
1900-2500
cps
pH: 5 .3+-0.2
Comments:
t h e deve lopment o f new produ c ts o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g
ones.
SOURCE:
R . T .
V a n d e r b i l t
Co . ,
I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n
No. 4 4 7
T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u la i s de si gn e d t o s e r v e as a g u id e f o r
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BeautyAids 1 7
Vegetable Based Moisturizing Cream
I n s r e d i e n t s :
P a r t
A :
Super r e f i n e d alm ond o i l
' ICrodesta" F10
"Syncrowax" HGLC
P a r t 0:
' I H
y
d os
o y I 2
00 SF
' *Crodesta" F110
So bo
f
7
0
ltGermaben" 11
"Veragel
I
200
De i on iz ed Water
P e rcen t
20.0
3.0
2.0
1 . o
3.0
5.0
1 . o
0.5
6 4 . 5
Procedure:
Combine Part A . Heat t o 7OCt-2C. Combine P a r t 0 . Heat t o
7OCt-2C. Combine P a r t B t o P ar t A unde r a g i t a t i o n . C oo l and
f i l l o f f .
SOURCE: D r , Madi
s
L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Sugges ted Formu la t i on
Liquifying Cream Makeup Remover
P enreco M i n e ra l O i l #9
P e t r o l a t u m A l b a
Rosswax 60-0254
Ross
C e res in e Wax 1160/7
Beta Carotene 30%
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i v e
%
51 .E8
32.8
9 . 1
7 . 0
0.02
q . s .
q . s .
Procedure:
170F w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m ix ed c o o l , add t h e r e s t
o f
t h e i n g r e d i e n t s and pa ck a t a b ou t
130F.
SOURCE: Frank 0.
Ross
Co., I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n
M e l t i n g r e d i e n t s one t h r u f o u r i n a steam j ac ke te d k e t t l e t o
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1 8 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Water Resistant Liquid Foundation
The r e s u l t i n g p r o d uc t i s a t h i n l o t i o n t h a t f e e l s l i k e a f i n e
powder.
?&&
A .
Dei on i zed Water 69.25
C o l l o i d a l Magnesium A luminum S i l i c a t e (Veegum) 1 . o o
Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T ) 0.50
Methy lparaben (Lexgard M ) 0.20
P ropy l ene G l yco l N F 5.00
Tr ie tha no lam in e NF
QS
B .
Oc ty l S t ea ra te (Lexo l EHS) 8 .50
Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul 561) 3 .50
G1 y c e r i n /D i e t hy le ne G1 yc o l /Ad i pa te Cross pol ymer
(Lexorez
100)
2 . 0 0
Propy lparaben (Lexgard
P )
0.05
C . Talc (J -13-AT)
I r o n O x id es ( A T S e r i e s )
5
5
Procedure:
1 . Combine A h e a t i n g
t o
80-85C. Add a l l i ng re d i e n t s excep
2. Combine
B
and he a t t o 80C.
Veegum and xanth an gum. Dry b le nd th e gums and s i f t i n .
00
00
t h e
3. Move A g 3 t o homogeni zer . T u rn t o a l ow speed.
4. Add
B
t o A , homogen ize a t l ow speed f o r 5 m inu tes . Beg in
5 .
Add
C
t o lfAB ",homogenize a t l ow speed f o r 10 mi nu tes
o r
6 . Remove f r om homogeni ze r and t r a n s fe r t o p r o p e l l e r m i x e r .
7. A t 45-50C a d j u s t pH t o 7.5 -7 .7
w i t h
TEA. A d j u s t f o r w a te r
l o s s
Formula 383-188
c o o l i g
.
u n t i l p a r t i c l e s a re d is pe rs ed .
Lip Gloss
The r e s u l t i n g p r od u c t i s a ca ke l i p g lo s s wh ic h c o u ld be h o t
p ou red i n t o a pan o r d i r e c t l y i n t o a
SAN
co mp act. The l i p g l o s s
a p p l i e s e a s i l y . T h i s p ro d uc t
i s
v e r y wear r e s i s t a n t and e x h i b i t s
a h i g h g l o s s due t o L e xo r ez 1 00 .
C as to r
O i l
NF ( C r y s t a l 0) 60.90
Beeswax NF (S&P W h i t e 422P) 10 .0 0
Lano l i n Anhydrous 1.30
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 1 4 .8 0
S t e a r y l S t e a r a t e ( L i p o n at e
SS)
4.30
G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro ss po ly me r
(Lexorez 100)
8 . 7 0
Procedure:
1 . Combine i ng re d i en t s , h ea t t o 75C. M i x s l o w l y
so
t h a t a i r i s
Formula LP-100
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemi cal Co. : Suggested F ormu l a t i ons
n o t en t rapped . 2 . Pour a t 50C.
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Section V
Creams
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110 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
All
Purpose Cream
( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n
( 7 0 )
Squal ane
N i
k k o l WCB
G l y c e r y l M o n os t ea r a te ( S e l f Emu1 s i y i ng Type)
C e t y l A l c o h o l
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 2 0 ) G l y c e r y l M o n o s te a r at e
S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e
(W) A j i d e w N-50
So rb i o1 (70%)
Water
P r e s e r v a t i e
Procedure :
1 .
Heat
(0 )
and ( W ) t o 80C.
2 .
Add (W) t o
( 0 )
s l ow l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 5 . 6
All
Purpose Cream
( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n
( 7 0 )
P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)
C e t y l A l c o h o l
N i k k o l WCB
C e t y l A l c o h o l
T ocophe ro l Ace ta te
A1 1 a n t o i
n
S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M on o ol ea te
( W )
Aj idew N-50
Propy l ene G l yco l
Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure:
1 . Hea t
(0 )
and ( W ) t o 80C.
2 .
Add W ) t o
( 0 )
s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 5.4
SOURCE: A j i n o m o to USA, I n c . : Sugges ted F o rm u l a t i on s
Wt
1 0 . 0
4 . 0
5 . 0
8 . 0
4.0
2 . 7
1 . 3
2 . 0
2 . 0
61
. O
q . s .
Wt$b
21.6
8 . 0
5 . 0
1 0 . 0
4 . 0
0 . 2
0 . 2
2 . 0
3 . 0
3 . 0
2 .0
45.0
q . s .
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Creams
111
All Purpose Cream
(0 )
Am i te r LGOD
Squa l ane
Spermacet i
P ropy l ene G l yc o l M onos teara te
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e
( 2 0 )
G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e
G l y c e r y l M o no s te a ra te ( S e l f Emul s i y i ng Type)
So rb i t an M onos tea ra te
(W) Ajidew N - 5 0
Sorb i o 1 (70%)
Sodium Carbonate (10% aq s o l n )
Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure:
1. Heat 0) nd (W) t o 8OC.
2 . Add ( W ) t o
0)
l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 5 . 5
Vanish ing Cream
(0 )
S t e a r i c A c id
L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70)
I s o p r op y l M y ri s t a t e
Hyd rogena ted Lano l i n
N i
k k o l WCB
G1 y c e r y l Monostearate (Sel f Emul s i y i ng Type)
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 2 0 ) C e t y l E t h e r
(W) Ajidew
N-50
Propy l ene G l y c o l
G l y c e r i n
T r i et ha no l ami ne
Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure:
1 . Hea t 0) nd (W) t o 85-86C.
2. Add ( W ) to (0 ) s l o w ly w i t h a g i t a t i o n
3 . Cool s l o w l y t o
30C
w i t h s t i r r i n g .
p H :
7 .2
W B
1 0 . 0
9.0
2.0
4.0
3 .0
1 0 . 0
1 . 5
3 . 0
4 . 0
0 .1
5 3 . 1
0 .3
Wt%
8 . 0
3 .0
3.0
2.0
2.0
1 . 3
1 . 7
3 .0
3 . 0
3 .0
0 . 5
6 9 . 5
q . s .
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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112 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
All Purpose
Dry
Skin Cream
Formula:
Phase A :
Glucquat 100
Dei o n i zed Water
Phase B :
G1
ucam P-20 D i s t e a r a t e
G l u c a t e DO
Promulgen D
Ace t u 1an
C e t a l
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1
C e t y l P a l m i t a t e
Per fume and Preserva t i ve
Wt.
1.0
8 3 . 0
2 .0
0 . 5
4.5
2 . 0
1
. o
5 . 0
1 . o
q . s .
Procedure:
w i t h ad eq ua te a g i t a t i o n . Combine B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 80C
w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . S lo w ly add A t o B and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
When m a t e r i a l b e g i n s t o t h i c k e n d u r i n g c o o l i n g , change t o s l o w
s w e e p a g i t a t i o n .
D i s s o l v e G l uc q ua t 100 i n t o d e i o n i z e d w a t e r and h e a t t o 80C
Dry Skin Cream
Water
P r o t o p e t 1s
D ry F l o S t a r c h
S i l i c o n e 3 44
F i n s o l v
TN
C e t y l A l c o h o l
Sodium S t e a r y l 2 L a c t a l a t e
P ropy l pa raben
M ethy l pa raben
Carbomer 934
T r i e tha no l ami ne
F rag rance & C o l o r
W t . 9 6
61
. 37
20.00
5 . 0 0
5 .00
5 . 0 0
1 - 0 0
1
. o o
0.15
0 . 1 0
0.30-0.50
QS t o N e u t r a l i z e
QS
SOURCE: Wi tco Co rp . : Pe t ro l eum S p e c i a l t i e s Group : Suggested
Formul a t i o n s
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Creams 113
Almond Vanishing Cream with Collagen
Phase 1:
Rosswax 63-041 2
Rosswax 573
Am er l a te
P
Emerest 2314
Emerest 2316
G l yce ry l M onos tea ra te SE
Almond
O i
1 L i povol ALM
Phase 2 :
Emery 916 Pure Gl yc er in e
Water
T r i e thano l ami ne
Phase 3 :
Col l a s o l ( C o l la g e n )
Phase 4:
Germaben
I 1
%
5 . 9
8 . 9
0 . 7
0 .7
0 .7
0.37
1
. o
6 . 0
13 .46
0 . 9
0 .37
1
. o
Procedure:
t o a t em p e ra t u re o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e t em p e ra t u re i s
r ea ch ed , add Phase ( 1 ) t o Phase ( 2 ) w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n .
N ex t add Phase ( 3 ) and t h e n Phase ( 4 ) b o t h w i t h a g i t a t i o n , c o o l
t o 120F and package.
I n s e p ar a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s h e a t b o t h Phase ( 1 ) and ( 2 )
Dry Skin Cream
P a r t ( A ) :
Modul an
Amerchol L-101
I s o p r o py l M y r i s t a t e
Sod ium S teara te Pure
G l yc e r y l Mono S t ea ra te
SE
Ross Sp er ma ce ti Wax Sub. 573
Ross
J o j o b a O i 1
P a r t ( B ) :
Water
Emery 916 Glycer ine Pure
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
P a r t
(C):
P r e s e r v a t i v e
P a r t
( D )
:
Fragrance
%
3 . 7
4 .2
2 . 7
1 0 . 0
1 . 8
5 . 5
1 . 8
59.7
9 . 2
1 . 4
q . s .
q . s .
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . When t e mp e r at u re i s re ac he d, m ix P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t
( B )
and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r s a t b e l ow 1 20F.
SOURCE:
Framk
8 .
Ross
C o . ,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
M e l t P a r t ( A ) and P a r t ( B ) i n s e p a r a te v e s s e l s t o 170F un de r
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114 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a l i g h t c ream t h a t c o u l d be di sp en se d
f r om a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r a j a r . The a lp h a h y dr o xy a c i d (AHA)
c on ta in ed i n t h i s f o r mu la i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use
l e v e l o f a p p ro x i m a te l y 10%.
A .
Deion ized Water
Methy lparaben (Lexgard M )
2,4 -D ich lo ro benzy l A lcoho l (Myac ide SP)
G l y c e r i n
USP
(99.7%)
L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)
%
65.80
0 .20
0 .20
3.00
0.60
B. G1 y c e r y l S t ea ra te (and) S tearami do e t hy l D ie th y l ami ne
(Lexe mul AR) 2. 50
Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and ) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul 561) 4 .00
Stear ami do pr op yl Dim eth yl ami ne (Lexami ne S-13) 1. 00
Ce ty l A lc oho l (Ado1 52)
1
. D O
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L ex o l GT-865) 6.00
I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e ( L ex o l
B S )
2.00
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P)
0 .1 0
C . L a c t i c A c i d (88%)
Sodium Lactate (Purasa l S /SP
60%)
5.60
8 .00
Procedure :
1 . Combine sec t ion A'I he a t i ng t o 75-8OC. Use p r o p e l l e r m i xe r
f o r a g i t a t i o n .
2 .
Combine sec t ion E q t h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h
a p r o p e l l e r m i xe r .
3 . When sect ions A & B ar e homogeneous and a t t h e des i g-
na ted t em pera tu res s l o w l y add l '0 t o A . M ix w i t h r a p i d
a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 mi nu te s th e n b e g in c o o l i n g .
4 . Reduce m i x i n g s peed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g .
5 . A t 55-60C, add s e c t i o n C t o s e ct io n s A B .
6 . When th e ba tc h i s homogeneous and a t 35-45C a d j u s t f o r
w a t e r l o s s .
7 . M i x t o 30C.
8 .
A d j us t f i n a l
pH
t o 3 .5 0- 3. 75 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium
L a c t a t e , a s r e q u i r e d .
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
V i s c o s i t y :
10,000
cPs 24C (B ro o k f i e l d
RVT,
T A 10 rpm) .
pH: 3 .5 24C
24 hour sample.
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-79-3
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Creams 115
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream with 10% Aloe Vera Gel
Phase
A:
Dei o ni zed Water
P r o p y le n e G l y c o l
Xanthan Gum (T i c a x a n )
Phenoxyethanol
Phase B:
Squalane
N F
PPG-12/SMDI (Polyolprepolymer-2)
Hydrogenated Phosphol i d (L ec i no1 S-1 0)
C a p r y l i c / C ap r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( M i g l y o l 812)
S t e a r i c A c id
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S t e a r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( S o f t i s a n 378)
Cyc lometh icone (DC 344 F l u i d )
Dimeth icone ( DC 200 F l u i d ; 50 v i s . )
Ce te ar y l A l co ho l (and) Cet ear eth -20 (Cosmowax
J )
Gl yc e r y l S tea r a te (and) PEG-100 S tea ra te (A r l ac e l 165 )
S t ea r e th - 2 ( B r i j 72)
Phase C:
L a c t i c Ac id , 88% ( B i o l a c )
Phase D :
Ter ry A loe Vera Ge l , l X , Dec
Pro py l ene G1 y c o l (and) D i azo1 i n y l Urea (and)
Methy lparab en ( and) Pr op ylp ar ab en (Germaben 11)
%
50.45
4.00
0.50
0 .30
4.00
3.00
1 . o o
5 .00
2.50
2.00
4.00
1 - 0 0
2.00
1 .50
0.50
7.00
10.00
1
D O
1.
S l ow l y d i s p er s e Xanthan gum t o w at er w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r -
o u s l y . C o nt in u e m i x i n g a t r a p i d speed u n t i l c o m pl e te l y
d i spe rsed and hyd ra ted . Heat t o 70C. Add Pr opy len e Gl yc o l
f o l l ow ed by Phenoxye thano l.
2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase B . W h i l e s l o w l y m i x i n g
commence hea t i ng t o 70-75C. Con t i nue m i x i ng u n t i l un i f o r m .
3 .
S l ow l y i n t r od uc e Phase
B
i n t o Phase A . C o nt in u e t o mix f o r
5-1 0 m i n u t e s
.
4. C oo l t o 40C w h i l e c o n t i n u i n g t o m ix . W i t h b a t c h a t 35C, add
Phase C and c o n t i n u e t o m i x .
5. Combine a l l Phase D i ng r e d ie n t s , s t i r r i n g u n t i l d i s s o l v e d .
Add t o b a t c h w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 25C.
SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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116 Cosm etic and Toiletry Forniulations
Aloe Vera Night Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A . Deion ized Water
Te tr as o di um EDTA
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l
Methy lparaben
B .
Ce ty l A l co ho l (Ado1 52 N F )
C e t e a r y l A l c o h ol ( an d) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (and)
Po l yso rba te -40
S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e
M i n e r a l
O i
1 (and ) La no l i n A l coho l
( R i
t a c h o l )
M i n e r a l
O i l
A l o e Ve ra L i p o i d 1
:
1
Pe t ro l a tum (and ) L an o l i n (and ) Sodium
PCA
(and)
D i met hi cone 200
BHA
Propy lparaben
PEG-150 S te ar a t e (and) S teare th -20 (R i t ac ho l 1000)
Po l yso rba te 85 (R i t ade rm )
Percen t
49.225
0.075
3.50
0.20
2.00
2.00
2.00
0.70
1
.oo
7.00
3 .00
3 .00
1 . o o
0 . 1 0
0 . 1 0
C .
Sodium Borate 0 . 2 0
D .
Aloe Verage l
F ragrance
Germal l
I 1
20.50
0 .15
0.25
Procedure :
Heat Phase A and Phase
B
s e pa r a te l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 75C.
Add Phase A t o Phase B and mi x 30 mi nu te s. Add Phase C and cool
w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l t e m pe r a t u r e r e a c he s 50C. Add Phase D and
a g i t a t e u n t i l t e mp e r at u re r ea ch es room t e mp e r at u re .
Night Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A .
Water
Promulgen
D
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 9 9
Methy lparaben
Propy lparaben
A l oe V er ag el L i p o i d
G l y c o l S t e a r a t e
M i n e r a l O i l
Magnesi urn S t e a r a t e
B . S t e a r i c A c i d
Procedure :
shu t o f f a g i t a t i o n .
H e at p ha se s t o
BOC.
Add phase
B
t o
A .
M ix u n t i l
4 0 C .
SOURCE: D r . M a d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : S ug ge ste d F o r mu l at
Pe rcen t
q . s .
1
. o
1 .2
0.35
0 . 1
8.0
6.0
3.5
10.0
0 . 5
and
ons
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Creams 117
Anti -Cellulite Cream
A c t i v e s s p e c i f i c a l l y d ev elo pe d t o r e du ce t h e s i g n s and
q u a n t i t y o f c e l l u l i t e a re i n c or po ra te d i n t o t h i s q u i ck pene-
t r a t i n g , n on -g re as y cre am . The use o f C er a A l b a l a t e 1 03 a l l o w s
f o r a s t a b l e e m ul si on u s i n g a h i g h c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f l ow
v i s c o s i t y o i l s . Orange Wax i n t h i s f o rm ul a i s a l s o an a c t i v e
due t o s i m i l a r c h e m i s t r y . The c l a i m s f o r C en te rc he m' s a n t i -
c e l l u l i t e pr o d u c t s a r e based on g ro up s o f c h em i ca l s w h ic h
a re a l s o f ound i n Orange Wax, f o r examp le ; S t e r o i d s ,
F lavonones, F la vo no ls and Cinnamates.
Phase A :
C e r a A l b a l a t e
103
(Koster Keunen)
G l yc o l S t ea ra te (Kos te r Keunen)
G l yc e r o l M onos tea rate (Henke l )
Orange Wax ( K o s te r Keunen)
I so p r op y l Pa l m i t a t e (Un ichema)
S i l i c o n e
O i l
556 (Dow)
Em u ls i f y i ng Wax N F (Koster Keunen)
Ceteareth-20 (Croda)
Euca l yp tus O i l (Crompton & Knowles)
C a p r y l i c / C ap r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( B er n el )
Phase B :
W ater ( D i s t i 1 ed )
Carbopol 940 (BF Go od r ic h)
G lycer in (Un ichema)
P ro n al an A n t i c e l l u l i t e (Centerchem)
I v y E x t r a c t ( Al ba n M u l l e r )
Seaweed Extract (Centerchem)
Tr ie thanolamine (Dow)
A lo e Vera Gel (A lo e Cor p . )
Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )
3.0%
4.0%
3.0%
4.0%
2.0%
2 . 0 %
2 .0%
1.5%
0.5%
2.5%
50.1%
0 . 2
3 . 0 %
10 .0
5 .0%
5.0%
0.2%
1.0%
1 .O%
Procedure:
Em ul s i f y by add in g Phase A t o Phase B . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e a nd
m ix w h i l e c o o l i n g . Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t 40C.
A da pt io n o f f or mu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
a c t i v e s w hic h pr od uc e s i m i l a r c l a i m s . The use o f o t h e r p l a n t
o i l s w i l l n o t d r a m a t ic a l l y a l t e r t h e f i n i s h e d p r o d uc t . Worth
m e n t i o n i n g i s t h e a b i l i t y o f O range Wax t o mask t h e aroma
o f
t h e e u c a l yp t us o i l p r od u c in g a p ro d u ct o f l ow f r ag r a nc e .
SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested For mu la t i on
Heat Phase A t o 75 t o 8 0 C . Heat and mix Phase
B
t o 75C.
T he re i s room f o r c ha ng in g t h i s p r o d u ct b y t h e u se o f o t h e r
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118
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Antiwrinkle Daycream
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A ) Cremophor A6
Cremophor A25
Cu t i na
GMS
C e ty l a1 coho1
L u v i t o l EHO
P a r a f f i n O i l
B i s a b o l o l
S i l i c o n o i l A K
500
Phenoni
p
Parso l 1789
Parso l MCX
Propy7eng l yco l
P h y t a l u r o n a t e
Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p hase
A )
t o 70C.
He at t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p ha se 8 ) t o 70C.
Under s t i r r i n g add ph ase B) t o pha se
A ) ,
c oo l t o
5 0 C ,
Then add phases C ) and D ) one a f t e r a no th er and s t i r c o l d .
B) Water demi n e r a l ed
Euxy l K-200
C )
F i o b r o s i de
D)
F rag rance /Ch i a ra
0/238927
Procedure:
homogenize and co o l t o 30C.
A p p l i c a t i o n N o . A 006.8/02.93
%
w / w
2 , o o
2,oo
3,OO
3,OO
5,OO
5,OO
0,20
0,50
0,30
1
, o o
2 , o o
61,50
0,20
4 , OO
5,OO
5 O O
0,30
Daycream
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A ) Tween 60
A r l a c e l 6 0
Cet
y
1a 1coho 1
S t e a r i c A c id
I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e
M i g l y c o l
812
Parsol 1789
P a r s o l
MCX
Phenoni p
8 ) Water demi n e r a l i ed
G1 y c e r i n
I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea
S e r i c i n
Immucel l
C ) Fragra ncs /T im buk tu O/lB6901
Procedure;
Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p hase A) t o 70C.
H eat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase
B )
t o 75C.
Under s t i r r i n g add phase 6 ) t o phase
A ) ,
coo l t o 50C,
Then add phase
C)
and s t i r c o l d .
homogenize and co ol t o 30C.
A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 005.E/11.94
SOURCE: Pentapharm Ltd, : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
% w /w
3,OO
2,oo
3,OO
6,OO
10,oo
5,OO
1
,oo
2,oo
0,50
56,QO
4 , O O
0,30
3,OO
s i 0 0
0,30
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Creams 119
Benzoyl Peroxide Cream
M a t e r i a l s :
P a r t
A :
1 . D . I . Water
2 . G l y c e r i n e
3 . Bentone
MA
r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e
4 . P r e s e r v a t i v e
P a r t B :
1. Gly ce ry l Monoste arate , SE
2 . S t e a r y l A l c o h o l
3 . I s o c e t y l S te a r a t e
4 . P r e s e r v a t i v e
P a r t
C :
1. Dei on i zed Water
2. Benzoy l Perox ide
% bv Weiah t
71 . O O
3 .00
2 . 0 0
0.25
3.00
1
. o o
1 . o o
0 .10
11.65
7 .00
Procedure:
1 . M i x
D.I.
W at er , g l y c e r i n e an d p r e s e r v a t i v e . H ea t t o 60C.
2. Add Bentone MA s l o w l y and mi x w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 80C.
3 . I n a s e p a r at e v e s s e l , m i x p ha se B and h ea t t o 8OC.
4 . Add Phase A t o Phase B and m ix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 50C.
5 .
Mix and homogenize Phase C s e p a r a t e l y an d a dd t o a bo ve
6. Homogenize t h e cream and f i l l t h e c o n t a i n e r .
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested Fo r m u la t i o n
TS-285
m i x t u r e o f Phase A and Phase B .
Day Cream O/W for Sensitive
Skin
Component:
I. Emulgade PL 1618
Almond O i l
C e t i o l 8 6 8
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
B a y s i l o n M 350
1 I . G l y c e r i n 8 6 %
Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Viscosi ty 23C mPas:
3;O
79.0
q . s .
150000
P r e p a r at i o n i n t h e L a bo ra to ry :
1 . H eat o i l p hase t o BOC. Heat aqueous phase t o 80C and add t o
o i l p hase w h i l e s t i r r i n g . E mu ls i f y f o r 5 min utes a t t h i s
t em pera tu re .
2 . The em uls ion i s co o le d down w h i l e s t i r r i n g ; t h e s t i r r i n g
must be s e l e c te d i n such a way t h a t t h e e mu ls io n i s k e p t i n
c o n t i n u a l m o ti on , w i t h o u t d e v e l o pi n g a s o - c a l l e d s t i r r i n g
c on e . E xc es si ve s t i r r i n g , i n p a r t i c u l a r b elo w 50C, c an
l e a d t o t h e r e du ct io n o f t h e f i n a l v i s c o s i t y .
3 .
H e a t - s e n s i t i v e a d d i t i v e s a r e added b elo w 40C. F i n i s h s t i r r i n g
a t 30C.
SOURCE:
Henkel KOaA: Fo r m u la t io n
No.:
92/216/108
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12 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Cleansing Cream
T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s a d ua l p u rp o se makeup r emo ve r an d s k i n
c o n d i t i o n e r . M y v a p l e x 600P g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e p r ov id e s m i l d
c l e a n s i n g , e m o ll i en c e , and e m ul si on s t a b i l i t y . Eastman v i t a m i n
E6-81,
t h e a ce ta te e s t e r o f v i t a m i n
E,
o f f e r s i mp r ov e d h e a t and
l i g h t s t a b i l i t y .
Phase A :
Myvero l 18-06 h y d ro g e na t ed s oy g l y c e r i d e
S t e a r i c ac id , USP/NF
Pe t ro l a tum , USP
Drakeol 9 m in er al o i l
I s o p r op y l m yr i s t a t e
SF 18 (350) s i l i c o n e f l u i d ( di me th ic on e)
Phase
0 :
D i s t i 11ed water
Propy lene g l y c o l , USP
T r i
et ha no l ami ne 99%,
USP
Phase
C :
Eas tman v i tam in E
6-81
( v i t a m i n
E
a c e t a t e )
Phase D:
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i v e
m
6.00
4.00
10.00
10.00
10.00
2.00
q . s . t o 100
5 . 5 0
0.70
0.30
q . s .
q . s .
Procedure:
1 Combine i n g r e d i e n t s and heat Phase
A
and Phase B s e p a r a t e l y
t o 80C, m i x i n g u n t i l each phase i s u n i f o r m .
2 . Add Phase B t o Phase
A
w i t h p r o p e l l e r m ix in g .
3 . C o n t i nu e m i x i n g and s l o w l y c o o l t o 50C.
4 . Add Phase C w i t h m ix in g and when un i f o r m add Phase D .
5 . C o n t i nu e m i x i n g a nd c o o l t o room te m p e r a t ur e .
6. Ad j us t a g i t a t i o n speed t h roughou t p rocess as needed.
I n v e r s i o n w i l l occ ur a t 32C, and cream w i l l become smooth
and wh i t e .
pH:
7.71
SOURCE: Eastman Chem ical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n
X 2 1 1 3 9 - 0 0 7
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Creams 121
Cleansing Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : % bv Wei a h t
(1 De i on i zed Water
31
. O
i2j Be nto n i t e (NF grade)
2 . 0
(3) G l y c e r i n 3.0
(4) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) 5.0
(5) Kaopo l i t e 1147 20.0
6) Beeswax 5.0
(7) Pe t ro l a tum 10 .0
( 8 ) M i n e r a l
O i l
( l i g h t ) 1 7.0
( 9 ) A r l a c e l 186
3.0
(10)Tween 80 1 . o
( 11 )So l u l an 16
3.0
Prese rva t i ve , F rag rance & C o l o r a n t q.s.
Procedure:
Add
(2)
t o ( l ) , m ix a t h i gh speed. Reduce speed and add
(3)
and
( 4 )
u n t i l smooth . Con t i nue m i x i ng , and add
(5)
s lo w l y u n t i l
w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Heat t o 70C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m ix 6 ) ,
( 7 ) , ( 8 ) , (9), and ( 1 0 ) a nd h e a t t o 70C u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t o
wa te r phase and coo l t o
3 0 C
w i t h c o n t i n u e d m i x i n g .
F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f
each product used.
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d b e u sed when h a n d l i n g
f l a m m a b l e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Mascara Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s :
% b y
Weight
(1 ) De i on i zed Water 27 .8
(2 ) Be nto n i t e (NF grade) 2 .0
(3) C arb ox ym eth yl C e l l u l o s e ( l o w v i s c o s i t y ) 0 .2
( 4 ) P r o p y le n e G l y c o l 5.0
(5) S o r b i t o l
(70%
s o l u t i o n ) 5.0
( 6 ) So l u l a n 98
2.5
( 7 )
Ka op o l i t e TLC 4 .0
( 8 ) I r o n O xi de s ( m i c ro n i z e d ) 3.5
( 9 ) Deodor ized Kerosene 35.0
(1 O) Ca nd el i l la Wax 5.0
(11)Carnauba Wax
(No.
1
y e l l o w )
7 . 0
( 1 2 ) A r l a c e l 1 8 6 3.0
Procedure:
D i s p e r s e (2) i n t o ( 1 ) a t h ig h speed. Add (3) and con t inue
m i x i ng u n t i l w e l l d i spe r sed . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) ,
(5),
(61 , ( 7 ) , and (8 ) . Con t i nue m i x i ng , hea t t o 70C. In a s e p a r a t e
c o n t a i n e r , m ix ( g ) , l o ) , ( 11 ) and (12 ) and hea t t o 70C u n t i l
d i s s o l v ed . Add t o t h e aqueous phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Coo l t o 30C.
F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f
each product used.
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r ac t i ce s shou l d be used when hand l i ng
f l a m m a b l e i n g r e d i e n t s .
SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
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122 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Cold Cream
(0)
L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( 70)
P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
C e t y l A l c o h o l
Hyd rogena ted Lano l i n
N i
k k o l
WCB
S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e
Po l yoxye thy l ene (20 ) So rb i t a n M onoo l ea te
(W) Ajidew
N - 5 0
Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure :
1 . Heat ( 0 ) and W ) t o 80-85C.
2. Add ( W ) t o (0 ) s lo w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g .
3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 7.2
Cold Cream
(0 )
L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#7 0)
P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)
P e t r o l a t u m
N i
k k o l
WCB
G1 y ce ry l Monos teara te
Po l yoxye thy l ene (10 ) Ce ty l E the r
A1 umi num Mo no st ear a te
(W) Ajidew N-50
Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure :
1 .
Heat
0)
nd
( W )
t o 80C.
2. Add (W) t o (0 ) s lo w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g .
3 . C on ti nu e s t i r r i n g u n t i l 35-40C.
pH: 5.2
Wt%
2 0 . 0
9 . 0
3 . 0
1 . o
2 . 0
1 0 . 0
2 .7
2 .3
3 . 0
47 .0
q . s .
Wt%
30 .0
6 . 0
7 . 0
7 .0
2 . 5
2.5
2 . 0
3 . 0
42.0
q . s .
SOURCE: A j i nom o t o USA, I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Creams
123
Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 721s
6 Wate r , de i on i zed
Carbopol 934
10.00
4 .00
80 .50
0 .10
C
Sodium hydrox ide (10% W /W aqueous) 0.10
D Dowic i l 200 0 .1 0
E Fragrance 0 . 2 0
F Et ha no l, SDA-40 5. 00
Procedure:
b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C). Add
( D )
when t h e tempera t u re
dr op s bel ow 50C. Add ( E ) below
40C.
Add (F ) and water t o
com pensate f o r e vap o ra t i on . Hom ogen ize. Ad j us t pH t o 5 .5 -6 . 5 .
Heat (A) t o 70C and 8 ) t o 75C. Add (6) o ( A) s l o w l y u s i n g
Facial Washing Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A M in er a l o i l
C e t y l a l c o h o l
A r l a c e l 1 6 5
Tween 60
6
G l y c e r i n
Water
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
C
*Perfume
*Co lo r
*q.s. t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .
P rocedure :
Heat
( A )
i n u e d s t i r r
Add (C) and
Formula SK-
m
25.00
2 .00
10.00
1
. o o
6.00
56.00
t o 65C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h c on t -
n g u n t i l t h e e m ul si on t e mp e r at u re d ro p s t o 45C.
c on t i n ue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o l .
6A
Su r fa c ta n t s : SugQested F o rm u l a t i ons
OURCE: IC1
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124
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Daily Facial Cream with UV Protection
O/W)
(Expected
SPF
6
I n n r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a c e l 1 6 5
Eumulg in B 2
L a n e t t e 0
F i n s o l v TN
C e t i o l OE
I s o p r op y l m yr i s t a t e
A b i l 1 0 0
Bentone Gel MI0
Neo He l io pa n, Type AV
C u t i n a CBS
B Demi n e r a l i ed water
Pemulen TR-2
Sodium hyd rox i de (10% aq. s o l u t i o n )
G l y c e r i n 8 6 %
Phenoni p
Neo He li op an , Type Hydro; used as a
n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium h y d r o xi d e
Z i n c O x i d e N e u t r a l H&R
%( w / w 1
3 . 0 0
1 . o o
2 . 0 0
3.00
5.00
1 - 0 0
1
. o o
3.00
1
.oo
2.00
67.25
0 . 4 0
0 .20
3 . 0 0
0.50
15% s o l u t i o n 3 .3 5
3 . 0 0
( a c t i v e 0 . 5 0 % )
C
Pe rfu me o i l 0 . 3 0
M a n u f a c t u r i n g P ro c es s:
P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C w i t h t ho r o ug h a g i t a t i o n .
P a r t B:
Then add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c l u d i n g Z i n c O x id e n e u t r a l
H&R and hea t up t o 95C. Then add and d is p er se Z in c Ox ide
neut ra l H&R. Add Par t
B
t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Co n t inu e s t i r r -
i n g t o room t e mp e r at u re .
P a r t
C :
emuls ion .
D is pe r se t h e Pemulen i n t h e w at er d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n .
A t 30C add t h e p er fu me o i l t o P a r t A / B and homogenize t h e
The pH -v a lu e o f t h e f i n i s h e d em u ls i on s h o u l d b e a p p ro x . 7 . 5
and has t o be checked.
SOURCE:
Haarman
&
Re i m er : F o rm u l a t i on
K 2/1-21282/E
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Creams 125
Day Cream, Oily
A . I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s
M i g l yo l 812
M i g l y o l 8 4 0
S o f t i s a n
649
Dynac er i n 660
S t e a r i c a c i d
C e t y l a l c o h o l
B . Water
C . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
D . Perfume
P r e s e r v a t
i
e
%
1 0 . 0
6 . 0
6 . 0
5 . 0
3.0
5.0
3.0
t o 1 0 0 . 0
0.90
q s
q s
P r e p a r a t i o n
A .
and
8 .
a r e s e p a r a t e l y warmed t o 75C. C . i s added t o B .
8. and C . a r e e m u l s i f i e d i n A . Perfume i s i n t r o d u c e d a t a p pr ox .
30C.
Moisturizing Cream, Slightly Oily
A . Im w i to r 940
M i g l y o l 8 1 2
M i g l y o l 8 4 0
L a n e t t e N
B. Hygrop l ex
HHG
K a r i o n F
1 , 2 - P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
Water
C .
Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
%
5.0
3.0
5.0
1 0 . 0
5.0
3.0
3.0
t o 1 00 .0
q s
q s
P r e p a r a t i o n :
The c o n s t i t u e n t s
o f A .
a r e m ix e d a nd h e a t e d t o 80-85C.
B . i s h ea te d t o t h e same t em pe r at ur e a nd e m u l s i f i e d i n A .
C . i s a dded a t a p pr o x. 30C.
SOURCE: H u l s A me ric a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s me ti cs :
Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
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126
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Deep Moisturizing Cream
T h i s m o i s t u r i z i n g crea m u s es C ro m o is t CS as a m o i s tu re
abso rb i ng ,
f i l m
f or mi ng p r o t e i n t o r e t a i n m o i st ur e and b i n d t o
t h e s k i n . The e m u ls i on i s f or me d and s t a b i l i z e d b y t h e Polawax,
Syncrowax , and Super Ha r to l an com b i na t i on . The o i l s a r e a b l e nd
o f Cro dal an LA, Crodamol
PMP,
Super Re fi ne d Babassu
O i l ,
and
P e t r o l a t u m w h i ch p r o v i d e s a n on g r e as y e l e g a n t f e e l an d h e l p s
t o s o f t en t h e s k i n .
I n a r e d i e n t s :
P a r t A :
Pol awax (Emu1 s i y i ng Wax NF)
Syncrowax
A w l - C
(C18-36 Acid)
Syncrowax HGL-C (C18-36 A c id T r i g l y c e r i d e )
C roda l an LA (C e t y l Ace ta te (and) Ac e t y l a te d La no l i n
Super R ef in ed Babassu
O i l
(Ba ba ssu O i l )
Super H a r t o l a n ( L a n o l i n A l c o h o l )
Crodamol
PMP
(PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E t h e r P r o p i o n a t e )
P e t r o l a t u m
Propy l Paraben
P a r t 6 :
Wa te r , de i on i zed
Methy l paraben
G1 y c e r i n
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)
A1 coho1 )
2.00
5 .50
1 . o o
1
. o o
3 .00
1 - 0 0
7 .00
1
. o o
0 . 2 0
66.00
0 .30
10.00
1 . o o
P a r t C :
Cromois t CS ( C h o n d r o i t i n S u l f a t e ( a nd ) H y d r ol y ze d
Procedure:
Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 75C.
Add Part B t o P a r t A w i t h hom ogen izer m i x i ng and co o l t o 65C.
Cont in ue m ix in g w i t h a sweep b la de m ixer and coo l t o 40C. Add
p a r t
C
w i t h m i x i ng and co o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t em pera tu re .
P r o t e i n ) 1 - 0 0
Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 75C.
V i s c o s i t y :
4,000,000+-10%
B r o o k f i e l d
RVT,
S p i n d l e
T E ,
25C)
N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE: Croda
Inc.:
Formula SC-207
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Creams 127
Deep Moisturizing Creme
P a r t A :
Water
Po ta ss i urn Hy dr ox id e (45%)
Monafax 160
Phosphol
i
i d SV
Germaben
1 1 - E
T i a n i um D i ox id e
P a r t :
C e t y l A l c o h o l
M yr i s t y 1 M yr i s t a t e
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
Dimethicone (1OOcs)
L an ol i n A l c o h ol
%
b y
Weight
84.5
0 . 4
1 . 0
2 . 5
0 . 6
0 . 5
2 . 0
3.0
4 . 0
1 . o
0 . 5
Procedure:
Hea t Pa r t A w i t h a g i t a t i i o n t o 60C. S e pa r at e l y h ea t P a r t B t o
60C. Homogenize P a r t B i n t o P a r t A f o r a s u f f i c i e n t t i m e t o
e n s u r e g o o d e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r co ol t o 45C, add f r ag ra nc e, and
package.
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Sugges ted Formu la t i on
Apricot Vanishing Cream
Phase
( 1 ) :
Rosswax 63-041 2
Rosswax 573
Am er l a te P
Emerest 2314
Emerest 2316
G l yce ry l M onos tea ra te SE
A p r i c o t K e r n a l O i l
L i p o v o l
P
Phase
( 2 ) :
Water
Emery 916 Pure G ly c e r in e
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
Phase
3 ) :
Germaben I 1
3
6.64
9 . 2
0 . 8
0 . 8
0 . 8
0 . 8
0 . 4
1 . 3
72 .9
6.2
0 . 9 6
1 . 0
Fragrance GK-19
9,5.
Procedure:
I n se p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s , h e a t b o t h Phase ( 1 ) and
( 2 ) t o a t e m p e r at u r e o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e te mp er a-
t u r e i s r eached , add Phase
1 )
t o Phase
( 2 )
w i t h c o n t i n ue d
a g i t a t i o n . Coo l t o 130F, add Phase (3 ) and f ra g r an ce . Con t i nue
t o coo l t o 120F and package.
SOURCE: Frank 8 .
R o s s C o . ,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n
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Creams 129
Emoll ient Cream for Dry Flaking Skin
I n a r e d i e n t :
De ion i zed Water
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99%
Propy l ene G l yco l
Xanthan Gum
Tet rasod ium EDTA
Ce te ar y l A1 coho l
Laneth-5
G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e
O i l s o f Aloha Kukui Nut O i l
V i t a m i n E Ace ta te
S t e a r i c A c i d XXX
D i meth i cone
O c t y l P a l m i t a t e
Germaben
I 1
Fragrance
No.:Phase:
1 A
2 A
3 A
4 A
5 A
6 B
7 B
8 B
9 B
10
B
11 0
12 B
13 B
14
C
15 D
% bv Weiaht
74.65%
1.00%
3.00%
0.30%
0.10%
1 .OO%
1.50%
4.00
3.00%
0.20%
4.00%
1 .OO%
5.00%
1 .OO%
0.25
M anu fac tu r i ng P rocedu re :
Heat Phase A t o 75C. Heat Phase B t o 75C.
Add Phase B t o Phase A . Cool t o 40C and add rem ain ing phases.
Package.
A
o i l i n w at er e mu ls io n where t h e p r i m a r y e m u l s i f i e r s a r e
T h i s i s a f a i r l y i ne xp en si ve f o rm u la t h a t u ses t wo e m o l l i e n ts -
An e x c e l l e n t example o f t h e f e e l
o f
Kuku i .
s t e a r i c a c i d w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and L an et h-5 .
Ku ku i and o c t y l p a l m i t a t e .
1
2
Phase:
A
A
3 B
4 B
5 B
6 0
7 B
8
B
9 B
10
C
Facial Cleansing Cream
I n a r e d i e n t :
Dei on i zed Water
G1 y c e r i ne
M i n e r a l O i l
O i l s o f A loha Macademia Nut O i l
O i l s o f Aloha Kukui Nut O i l
C e t y l A l c o h o l
C12-15 A1 co ho l s Benzoate
A r l a c e l 1 6 5
Po lysorba te -60
P r e s e r v a ti e
% by
Wei
caht
54.00%
6.00%
15.00%
5.00%
5.00%
2.00%
2 . 0 0 %
10.00%
1.00%
QS
Manufac tu r ing Procedure :
Phase
A :
Hea t wa te r and g l y c e r i n phase t o 75C.
Phase
0:
H ea t o i l p ha se t o 75C. Add t o w a t er p ha se . C oo l t o
Phase C: A d d p r e s e r v a t i v e .
40C.
SOURCE:
Oils
o f
Aloha:
Suggested Formulat ions
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13 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Emollient Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A
Ar lamol
E
A r
1 as o l ve 200L
B r i j 72
S t e a r y l a l c o h ol
B Water , de i on i zed
Carbopol 934
C Sodium hydrox ide (10% W /W aqueous)
D
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
*Perfume
* q .
s .
t h e s e
i
g r e d i e n t s .
M
20 .00
1 . 1 0
7 .20
2 . 0 0
69.30
0 . 2 0
0.20
Procedure :
go od a g i t a t i o n and ad d
( C )
a t 35C and m ix tho ro ug h l y . Add ( D ) .
Heat ( A ) t o 72C a nd ( B ) t o 7 5 C . Add
(B )
t o ( A) s lo w ly w i t h
R e pl ac e w a te r l o s t d ue t o e v a p o r a t i o n . P acka ge.
Formula AE-15
Non-Greasy Emollient Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A
I s o p ro p y l m yr i s t a t e
S t e a r y l a l c o ho l
B r i j
721s
B r i j 72
B
Water , de i on i zed
Carbopol 934
10.00
4.00
5.11
1 .89
58.10
0 . 4 0
C Sod ium hydrox ide (10% W /W aqueous) 0.40
D
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
E Fragrance 0 .10
F
Ethano l
Procedure :
Heat ( A )
moderate ag
( F ) a t 35C.
Formula SK-
SOURCE: I C 1
SDA-40 20 IO0
t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l ow l y w i t h
t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) be lo w 50C. Add ( E) and
Rep lace wa te r l o s t by eva po r a t i o n and package.
2
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Creams 131
Emollient Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A C e t y l a l c o h o l
S t e a r y l a lc o h o l
P e t r o l a t u m
L i q u i d l a n o l i n f r a c t i o n
B r i j 72
B r i j
700
B Water , de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n .
Heat (A ) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A ) w i t h
Emollient Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A B r i j 72
B r i j 721
Ar lamol
E
S t e a r y l a lc o h o l
C e t y l a l c o h o l
S t e a r i c a c i d
S i l i c o n e f l u i d ( G E SF 96-20)
6
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
*Dowic i l 200
Water , de i on i zed
* q . s .
t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
3 .00
2 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
2 .00
3.00
3.00
82 .00
%w/w
3 . 0 0
2 .00
9 . 0 0
0 . 7 0
0 . 3 0
1 .50
1 . o o
4.00
78.50
Procedure:
moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t d ue t o
evapo ra t i n.
Formula PC-9028
Hea t (A ) t o 70C. Hea t (B ) t o 72C. Add (B ) t o (A ) s l o w l y w i t h
Vanishing Cream
I n n r e d i e n t s :
A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g. m. s.
L an ol i n
C e t y l a1 coho1
M in era l o i l
Sorbo,
70%
s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n , U . S . P ,
Wate r , de i on i zed
%w/w
18.00
2 . 0 0
1 . o o
1 .00
2 .00
76.00
Procedure:
room temperature.
SOURCE:
IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 9OC w i t h mo de rate a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o
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132
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
European
O/W Day
Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Isohexadecane
C ap ry l c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e
Avocado o i l
Sunf lower Seed O i l
Tocophero l Ace ta te
Beheny l a l coho l
A n t i o x i d a n t
A r l a tone 2121
G1 y c e r o l
Pantheno l
A1 1a n t o i n
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
Xanthan gum
Water
* q . s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .
1 0 . 0 0
4 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
2 .00
2 .00
2 .00
0 . 0 5
5 . 5 0
4 . 0 0
1
. o o
0.20
0 . 1 5
67.10
Procedure :
M e l t A r l a to ne 2121 and add t o rem ai nde r o f (B) and (C)
m i x t u r e a t 80C. Add hea ted (A ) t o t h e (B ) and (C) m i x tu re
a t 75C w i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n . Homogenize m i x t u r e a t 65C
Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A
C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 7215
S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s
B Wate r , de i on i zed
C Hydrogen
p e r o x id e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r ad e
w/w
6 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
66.30
22
*
2 0
Procedure :
modera te ag t a t i o n . Add (C) be low 35C. Rep ace wat er l o s t by
e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4. 0 w i t h i l u t e phosphor c
a c i d (10% C . P . ) , Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b e
e v o l u t i on o f o x yg e n.
Formula PC-8200
SO URCE : I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat ( A) t o 60C and ( 8) t o 65C. Add 6 ) o (A) s l o w ly w i t h
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Creams 133
Exfoliating Cream
The use o f n a t u r a l e x f o l i a t i n g a gent ( e a s i l y d i sp er se d ) i n
t h i s cream f or mu la g i v i n g a m ar ve lo us , n o n - i r r i t a t i n g , a b r a s iv e
q u a l i t y f o r t h e removal o f s pe nt s u r f ac e c e l l s . T h is w i l l renew
and r e v i t a T i z e worn and damaged sk i n , l e av i n g a b a r r i e r wh i ch
c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l a n t i - o x i d a n t s i n h e r e n t i n t h e beeswax and
orange wax.
Phase A :
Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)
NF
White Beeswax (Koster Keunen)
I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Un ich ema )
Almond O i l ( A r i s t a )
L i g h t M i n e r a l
O i l
(W i t co )
G l yc er o l Monos teara te (Kos te r Keunen)
C e t y l s t e a r y l A lc o h o l (P&G)
Oc ty l Pa l m i t a te (Un i chem a)
Phase 8 :
Water ( D i s t i 11 ed)
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l (Dow)
Tr ie thano lam ine (Dow)
P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (G al l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r )
Carbopol 940 (BF Go od r ic h)
Germaben
I 1
( S u t t o n )
Phase
C :
Mi cr o gr an ul at ed Carnauba, 20-60 mesh (K os te r Keunen)
3.5%
1 . 0 %
3.0%
3.5%
4 . 0
1 .5%
1 .0%
3.0%
64 6%
2.5%
1
.O%
0.2%
0.2%
1 . 0
10.0%
Procedure :
0
a t 75C u n de r a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i nu e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add
Phase C and mix u n t i l homogeneous.
A da pt io n o f f o rm u la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o du c t :
i n g s t e a r i c a c i d f o r i s o s t e a r i c a c i d , t o accomodate y ou r p r e -
f e r r e d c o n t a i n e r . F or s e n s i t i v e s k i n , r ed uc e t h e o ra ng e wax,
and r ep la ce w i t h K est er Wax 62 and Cer es in e 130/135. A low
v i s c o s i t y
w i l l
a l l o w t h i s p r o du c t t o be packaged i n a b o t t l e
f i t t e d w i t h a pump and a p r o du c t w i t h h i g h v i s c o s i t y a l l o ws
packag ing i n an open j a r . The f o rm u l a t i ng advantages rema i n un-
a l t e r e d by t h e c hanges i n v i s c o s i t y .
SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Sugges ted Fo rm u la t i o n
Add a mix ed and un i f o r m Phase A t o a m ixed and u n i fo rm Phase
V i s c o s i t y o f t h i s p ro du ct can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d b y s u b s t i t u t -
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134 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Facial M oistur izing C ream
Ethy lhexy l p -methoxyc innamate
B u t y l m e t h o x y d i b e n z o y l m e t h a n e
E t h y l e n e - a c r y l a t e c op o ly me r
H y dr ox yp ro p yl g l y c e r y l e t h e r
P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r o l a t u m
Dimeth i cone
Steare th -100
G l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e
C e t y l a l c o h o l
S t e a r i c A c i d
Carbomer 934
Carbomer 941
Methy lparaben
Propy lparaben
I m i
d a z o l
i
n y lu r e a
Tetrasodium EDTA
T y r o s i n e
P o t a s s i um h y d r o x i de
T i a n i um d i o x i d e
Fragrance
Water
Moisturizing Hand &
Body
Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Dei o n i zed Water
Carbomer 934
G l y c e r i n e
Po lya ldo 10-1-5
P e t r o l a t u m
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1
Lonzest 143/S
A l d o HMS
S t e a r i c A c id
T r i e th an o l ami ne 99%
G l y d a n t P l u s
4,90%
2.10
0.50
5.00
2.00
0 . 4 0
0.70
0.30
1 . 2 0
0.52
0 . 1 0
0 . 1 0
0 . 2 0
0.10
0 . 1 0
0 .10
0 .10
0 .37
0 . 4 0
0.15
q . s .
t o 100.00
%Wt.
82 .00
0.50
5 .00
1 . 5 0
2 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
2.00
1 .50
2 .50
1
. o o
q . s .
SOURCE: Wi tc o Co rp . : Pet ro l eum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Sugg ested
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Creams
135
Facial Night Cream
P a r t
A :
Dei o n i zed Water
S o r bi o 1
Methy lparaben
P a r t B :
C14-16 a l c o h o l s b e n z o a t e
L an ol n
P r o t o p e t IS P e t r o l a t u m
Beeswax
P o l y s o r b a t e 80
G ly c e r y l s te a ra te and PEG
S t e a r i c a c i d
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
P a r t
C :
G l y c o s p h i n g o l i p i d s
P a r t
D :
Dimeth icone
D i
azo1 i n y l u r e a
Fragrance
100 s t e a r a t e
53.7%
1 . o
0.2
15.0
1 . o
5.0
4.0
2.0
3.0
0.6
5.0
1 . o
0.3
0.2
8.0
Procedure:
B eg in h e a t i n g w at er t o 80 C e l s i u s , a dd r e s t
o f
P a r t A . M i x
w e l l . Add P a r t
B
i n g r ed i e n t s i n o r d e r . M ix u n t i
1
homogeneous.
B e gi n c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r at u r e . S l o w l y add P a r t
C;
mix u n t i l
smooth. Add r e s t
o f
P a r t
D
i n g r e d i e n t s . M ix w e l l
Age Spot Treatment Cream
D i ethano ami ne c e t y l phosphate
E t h y l e n e g l y c o l m o no s te a ra te
I s op r op y P a l m i t a t e
C e t e a r y l o c t a n o a t e
P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m
La no l i n a l c o h ol s
Propy lparaben
Methylchloroisothiazolinone and m e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e
I m i da zo l i d i n y l u r e a
Methy lparaben
BHA
BHT
C y s t e i n e
R e d u c e d g l u t a t h i o n e
Py roca techo l
A sc o rb y l p a l m i t a t e
A c e t i c A c i d
Octy lmethoxy c innamate
B u t y lm e t hoxyd ibenzoy lm e t hane
F rag rance
2.00%
12.00
12.00
2.00
2.50
3.00
0.10
0.05
0.10
0.10
0.20
0.30
0.50
0.50
2.00
0.20
0.20
1 . o o
1 .oo
0.60
Water
q . s .
t o 100.00
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. Pet ro le um Spec i a1
t i
s Group: Suggested
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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136 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose Cream
1 . A -C Copolymer 540
2 .
A - C Polye thy lene 617
3 . Amerchol L-101
4 . M i n e r a l O i l
5 . Hexadecy l S tea ra te
6 . Emerest 2452
7. Propyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate
8 . M e t h y l - p - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e
9 . S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 % )
10 .00
r a x
11 .Magnes ium S u l f a t e
12.Water
Wtl
2 . 0
2 . 0
5 . 0
10 .2
1 0 . 0
5 . 5
0 .1
0 . 2
5 . 0
0 . 3
0 .3
59.7
Procedure:
a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m at e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l
waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le n d .
I f
a h i g h e r s o l v -
a t i n g t e mp e r at u re i s u se d, s o l v a t i o n ca n be much f a s t e r . H o l d
t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. H eat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l
a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C.
P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous p has e t o i t
and sh ear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d
m i l l .
A t 78C t h e cru de
d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k creamy e m u l s io n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e
s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r and make
s u r e t h e w ho le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s he a re d . Add p e rf um e, de-
ae ra te and package.
Weigh 1 -7 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow ag i t a t i o n . The b l e nd has
General Purpose Water/Oil Cream
1 . A - C
Polye thy lene 617
2 . 0
2 . Beeswax 4 . 0
3 . M i n e r a l O i l 15 .0
4 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5
5 . P r o p y l - p - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 . 1
6 .
Borax 0 . 3
7 . S o r b i t o l
5 . 0
8 . Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2
9 . Germal l 115 0. 3
10.Water 67.6
Procedure:
h as a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t
a l l waxes
w i l l
e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b le nd .
I f
a h igher temp-
e r a t u r e i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n can b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax
b l en d a t 80-85C. Heat 5 -10 t o 85-9OC and s t i r gen t1
Weigh 1 -4 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l en d
i s d i s s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85C.
P l ace wax b l e nd i n m i x i n g co n t a i n e r , add aqueous
and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t approx
t h e
c rude d i s pe rs i o n i n v e r t s . Some wa te r may n o t be
t ak en up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t in u e d s he a ri ng
w i l l
i t a l l . Add per fume, d e-aer a te and package.
SOURCE:
A 1 1i d S i gna l I nc . : 501 1-1 9-5/5011-20-1
u n t i l a l l
ph as e t o i t
mately 48C
compl e t e l y
n c o r p o r a t e
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Creams 137
General Purpose O/W Cream
1 .
2 .
3 .
4 .
5 .
6.
7 .
8 .
9 .
10
11
12
A - C Copolymer 540
M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s .
Dow F l u i d 556
Emerest 2388
Amerchol 400
S o l u l a n 2 5
A r l a c e l 6 0
S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 % )
Tween 60
Carbopol 940
Germal l 115
T r i et ha no l ami ne
wt /o
2 . 0
5 . 0
1
. o
1 0 . 5
2 . 0
1
. o
2 . 0
5 . 0
1
. o
0 . 7 5
0 . 4
0 . 7 5
13.Water 68.6
Procedure :
s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add r em a i n i ng i g r e d i e n t s , e xc e pt T r i e t h a n o l -
amine, t o t h e Ca rbopo l/wa te r d i s p e r s i o n and hea t t o 80-9OC.
Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer
f o r f i v e m i n u te s . Add T r i e t h a no l a m in e and c o n t i n u e t o s h ea r
w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de- aer a te and package.
D i spe r se Ca rbopo l i n wa t e r . Weigh 1 -7 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h
General Purpose
o/w
Cream
1 . A - C
Copolymer 540
2 . M i n e r al o i 1 ,
70
v i s .
3 . Dow F l u i d 556
4. Emerest 2388
5. Hydroxy01
6 .
Ethoxyo l 24
7 . A r l a c e l
60
8 . S o r b i t o l (70%)
9 . Tween 60
10. Carbo pol 940
11.Germal l 115
1 2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
13 .Water
Et
2 . 0
5 . 0
1
. o
1 0 . 5
2 . 0
1
. o
2 . 0
5 . 0
1
. o
0 . 7 5
0 . 4
0 . 7 5
68.6
Procedure :
s l ow a g i t a t i o n . Add re m a in i ng i n g r e d i e n t s , e xc ep t T r i e t h a n o l -
amine, t o t h e Ca rbopo l /wa te r d i sp e r s i on and hea t t o 80-9OC.
Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer
f o r f i v e m i n ut e s. Add T r i et h a n o la m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s h ea r w h i l e
c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add per fume, de-ae arate and package.
SOURCE: A l l i e d Si g na l I n c . : R ef : 5011-25-2/Ref: 5011-25-2A
D i spe rse Ca rbopo l i n wa t e r . Weigh 1 -7 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h
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138 Cosmetic and
Toiletry
Formulations
General Purpose O/W Cream
1 .
A-C Copolymer 540
2 .
M in e r a l o i l ,
70
v i s
3. Dow F l u i d 556
4 . I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e
5 . Amerchol 400
6 . So l u l an 25
7 . A r l a c e l 6 0
8 .
S o r b i t o l (70%)
9 . Tween 60
10.
Carbopol 940
11 .Ge rma l l 115
1 2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
13.Water
w
2 . 0
5 . 0
1
. o
1 0 . 5
2 .0
1 . o
2.0
5 0
1
. o
0 . 7 5
0 . 4
0 .75
6 8 . 6
Procedure:
s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add re m a i n in g i n g r e d i e n t s , e xc ep t T r i e t h a n o l -
amine , t o th e Carbopo l/wa te r d i sp e rs io n and hea t t o 80-9OC.
Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer
f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r ie t h a n o la m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s he ar
w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add per fume, de-ae ra te and package.
D ispe rse Carbopo l i n wat e r . Weigh 1 -7 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h
General Purpose
O/W
Cream
1 . A - C Polye thy lene 617
2 . A - C Copolymer 540
3 . M i n e ra l o i
1 ,
70 v i s .
4 . Dow F l u i d 556
5 .
Emerest 2388
6 . Amerchol 400
7 . So l u l an 25
8 . A r l a c e l 60
9 . S o r b i t o l
(70%)
10.Tween 60
11 .Carb opol
940
12.Germal l 115
13. T r i e th ano l ami ne
14.Water
W B
1 . 0
1 . o
5 . 0
1 . o
1 0 . 5
2 . 0
1 . o
1 . 3
5 . 0
0 . 7 5
0 . 4
0 . 7 5
68.5
1
. a
Procedure:
s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add re m a i n in g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c ep t T r i e t h a n o l -
am ine, t o t h e Ca rbopol /wa te r d i sp e r s i on and hea t t o 80-9OC.
Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and sh ear i n homomixer
f o r f i v e m i nu t e s. Add T r i et h a n o l am i n e a nd c o n t i n u e t o s he ar
w h i l e co o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add per fume, de-ae ra te and package.
SOURCE:
A l l i e d S i gna l I n c . : Re f : 5011-25 -2B/Re f: 5011-25-3
D isper se Carbopo l i n wat e r . Weigh 1 -8 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h
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Creams
139
General Purpose
O/W
Cream
1.
A -C
Po l ye thy l ene 617
2 . A - C Copolymer 540
3 . M i n e r a l o i 1 , 70 v i s .
4 . Dow F l u i d 556
5 . Emerest 2388
6. Hydroxy01
7. Ethoxyol 24
8 . A r l a c e l 60
9 . S o r b i t o l (70%)
10.Tween 60
11. Carbo pol 940
12.Germal l 115
1 3 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
14.Water
wts/b
1
. o
1 . o
5 . 0
1 . o
1 0 . 5
2 . 0
1 . o
1 . 3
5 . 0
1 . 8
0 . 7 5
0 . 4
0 . 7 5
68.5
Procedure :
w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add r em a in i ng i n g r e d i e n t s , e xc ep t T r i e t h a n -
o l am i ne , t o t h e C a rb o p ol / wa t e r d i s p e r s i o n a nd h e a t t o 80-9OC.
Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer
f o r f i v e m i nu t e s. Add T r i e t ha n o l a m in e a nd c o n t i n u e t o s he ar
w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add per fume, de- aer a te and package.
D isp ers e Carbopo l i n wa te r . Weigh 1 -8 and hea t t o 80-9OC
General Purpose
O/W
Cream
I .
A - C
Po l ye thy l ene 617
2. A - C Copolymer 540
3 . M i n e r al o i 1 , 70 v i s .
4 . Dow F l u i d 556
5 .
I s o p r o p y l M y r
6. Amerchol 400
7 . S o l u l a n 2 5
8 . A r l a c e l 6 0
9 . S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 %
10.Tween 60
11.Carbopol
12.Germal l 115
s t a t e
1 3 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
14.Water
Wt%
1
. o
1 . o
5 . 0
1 . o
1 0 . 5
2 . 0
1
. o
1 . 3
5 . 0
1 . 8
0 . 7 5
0 . 4
0 . 7 5
68.5
Procedure :
D is per se Carbopo l i n wa te r . Weigh 1 -8 and hea t t o 80-9OC
w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add re m a in i ng i n g r e d i e n t s , e x ce p t T r i e t h a n -
o l am i ne , t o t h e C a rb o p ol /w a t er d i s p e r s i o n a n d h e a t t o 80-9OC.
Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer
f o r f i v e m i n u te s . Add T r i et h a n o la m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s he ar
w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add per fume, de- aer a te and package.
SOURCE: A l l i e d S ig na l I n c . : Re f . 5011-25-3A/5011-25-3B
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14 Cosmetic and Toiletry Form ulations
General Purpose O/W Cream
1 .
2.
3 .
4 .
5 .
6 .
7 .
8 .
9 .
10
11
12
A - C
P o l y e t h y l e n e 61 7
A - C
Copolymer
540
M i n e r a l O i l (70 s s )
Dow 556 F l u i d
Pro pyl ene G1 y c o l D i p e l a r g o n a t e
Hydroxy01
E thoxyo l 24
A r l a c e l 60
Tween 60
P ropy l -P -Hyd roxybenzoa t e
S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 % )
Carbopol 940
wtv
1 . o
1 . o
5 . 0
1
. o
1 0 . 5
2 . 0
1
. o
1 . 3
1 . 8
0 . 1
5 . 0
0 . 7 5
13.Germal l 115 0 . 4
14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
0 . 2
15 . T r i th an ol ami ne
16 .Wate r 68 .3
Procedure:
Dis pe rs e Carbopo l i n wat e r . Weigh 1 -10 and hea t t o 80-9OC
w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i ni n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o Ca rb op ol /w at er
d i s p e r s i o n , e x c ep t t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , a nd h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e
wax phase t o t h e aqueous phase and shear i n homomixer. Co nt inu e
s h e a r in g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g
w e l l . Coo l t o 30C, add per fume, de-a era te and package.
Ref: 5011-25-4
0 . 7 5
Acne Scrub Cream
Fo r acne sc ru b cream, add 10% A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e S A t o t h i s
f o r m u l a t i o n , a f t e r c o o l i n g .
Em ollient Cream W ater/Oil
1 . A - C Po ly et hy le ne 617A 1%
2 . A - C Copolymer 540 4
3 . L a n o l i n Wax 10
4 . M i n e r a l O i l 30
5 .
2
E t h y l H e xy l S t e a r a t e 4 . 5
6 . A r l a c e l 20
4.6
7. Tween 20 1 . 5
8 . P Paraben 0 .1
9 . M Paraben 0.15
10.Water 43.85
11 .Borax 0. 15
12.Carbopol 941 0. 15
Procedure:
1. Heat 1-5
to
9OC u n t i l a l l h as d i s s o l v e d .
2 . Add 6, 7 and 8 t o 1-5. Ho ld a t 85C.
3 . Heat
10
and 11 t o 90-95C u n t i l a l l h as d i s s o l v e d ; add 12
g r a d u a l l y w i t h s h e ar u s i n g t h e G if f or d -W o o d Homomixer o r
e qu i v a l e n t
.
4. Add 1-8 t o mixe r and shear f o r 10 minute s a t 85-9OC. Shear
t o 65C, add per fume and package.
SOURCE: Allied Signal Inc.: Suggested Formulations
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Creams 141
General Purpose Cream
WtO/o
1 . A-C Po ly et hy le ne 617A 3.0
2 . Beeswax 2 . 0
3 . L a n o l i n A l c o h o l 1
. o
4 .
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 8 . 2
5 . 2 - e t h y l H ex yl P a l m i t a t e 1 0 .0
6 . Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s 1
. o
7 . T r i g l y c e r a l D i
i
o s t e a ra t e 5 . 5
8 . P ropy l -P -Hyd roxybe nz oa t e 0 . 1
9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0
1 0 .A l oe E x t r a c t 5 . 0
11.Sodium Bor at e, Anhydrous 0 . 3
13.Germal l 115 0 . 3
15.Water 58.3
12 .M e thy l -P -Hyd roxybenzoa te 0 . 2
1 4 . B u t y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e
0 . 1
Procedure:
h as a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t
a l l waxes
w i l l
e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o lv e i n t h e b le nd . I f a h i g h e r
s o l v a t i n g t e m p e ra t ur e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can b e much f a s t e r .
Ho l d t h e wax b l e nd a t 85C. Hea t 9 -15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g en t l y
u n t i l a l l has d is s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85'2.
and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c rud e
d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k creamy e m ul s io n f or m s. C o n t i n u e
s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u re
t h e w ho le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h ea re d . Add pe r fu m e, d e -a e r at e
and package.
Ref: 5189-4-10A
Weigh 1 -8 and and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . The b l end
P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , a dd aqu eo us ph as e t o
i t
1.
2 .
3 .
4 .
5 .
6 .
7 .
8 .
9 .
10.
11.
Water-In-Oil Cream
A-C 617
M i n e r a l O i 1 (70-75 S S )
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
Esca lo l 507
Lanogene
S o r b i t a n S e s q u i o l e a t e ( A r l ace1 8 3)
Sorbo
Borax
Germaben I I E
Water
Perfume
%
3 . 0
1 5 . 0
6 . 0
4 . 0
5.0
5 . 0
5 . 0
0 . 3
1 . o
Balance
Q . S .
Procedure:
o l v e d . M a i n t a i n
i t
a t 100-11OC. Heat 7-10 w i t h v i g o r ou s a g i t a -
t i o n w i t h a c o l l o i d
m i l l
o r homof ixer u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s a t
85C. C o n t in u e v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n and p o u r i n 1 -6 . A c ru d e o i l -
i n - w a t e r e m u ls i on i s f or me d . C oo l
w i t h
c o l d w at er b a t h t o a b ou t
55-60C when
i t
i n v e r t s i n t o a smooth cr ea m. A t 50-55C add pe rf um e
and package.
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : S ug ge sted F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat 1 -6 w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e A -C 617 has d i s s -
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142
Cosmetic and T o i l e v Formulations
Gener al Pur pose Wat er / Oi l Cr eam
W
1
A- C Pol yet hy l ene
617
2. 0
2. A- C Copol ymer
540 2. 0
3.
Mi ner al Oi l
( 70
s s ) 10. 2
4.
2
Et hyl Hexyl St ear at e 10. 0
6. Tr i gl yc er ol Di i s os t ear at e 5 . 5
7. P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0. 1
8 . Methy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate
0. 2
9. Sor bi t ol (70
5. 0
10.
Bor ax 0. 3
1 1
. Wat er 59. 7
Pr ocedur e:
Wei gh 1- 5 and heat t o 85C wi t h s l ow agi t a t i on. Thi s wax
bl end has a c l oud poi nt
o f
79C. Above t he c l oud poi nt al l
waxes wi l l event ual l y di s sol ve i n bl end.
I f
a hi gher sol vat i ng
t emper at ur e i s used, so l vat i on can be much f ast er . Hol d t he wax
bl end at 70- 8OC and add
6
and
7
t o i t wi t h s t i r r i ng unt i l al l
has di sso l ved. Heat
8- 11
t o 85- 9OC and s t i r gent l y unt i l al l
has di sso l ved. Hol d at 70- 8OC.
Pl ace wax bl end
i n
m xi ng cont a i ner , add aqueous phase t o
i t and shear wi t h homom xer or col l oi d m l l . At 53C t he c r ude
di sper s i on i nver t s and a t hi ck cr eamy emul s i on f or ms. Cont i nue
shear i ng whi l e sc r api ng t he s i des o f t he cont ai ner t o make
sur e t he whol e cont ent i s pr oper l y shear ed. Add per f ume,
de- aer at e and package.
Ref :
5011- 18- 6
5 . Lanol i n Al c ohol ( L 101)
5. 0
Gener al Pur pose Wat er / Oi l Cr eam
1 , A- C Pol yet hyl ene 617
2 . 0
2. Beeswax 4. 0
3.
Mi ner al Oi l 15. 0
4 . Ar l ac el
83
5. 5
5. Propyl - P- Hydr oxybenzoat e 0. 1
6.
M e t h y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 . 2
7. Sor bi t ol
( 70
5. 0
8.
Bor ax
0. 3
9.
Wat er
67. 9
Pr ocedur e:
a c l oud poi nt o f appr ox i mat el y 80C. Above t he c l oud poi nt al l
waxes wi l l event ual l y di s sol ve i n t he bl end. I f a hi gher
sol vat i ng t emper at ur e i s used , so l vat i on can be much f ast er .
Hol d t he wax bl end at 85C. Heat
5- 9
t o 85- 9OC and s t i r gent l y
unt i l al l has di s s ol ved. Hol d at 85C.
P l ace wax bl end i n m xi ng cont a i ner , add aqueous phase t o i t
and s hear wi t h homom xer or c ol l oi d m l l . At 50C t he c r ude di s -
per s i on i nver t s and a t hi ck cr eamy emul s i on f or ms. Cont i nue
shear i ng whi l e sc rapi ng t he s i des o f t he cont ai ner t o make sur e
t he whol e cont ent
i s
pr oper l y s hear ed. Add per f ume, de- aer at e and
package.
Ref :
5011- 18- 5
SOURCE:
Al l i ed Si gnal I nc . : Sugges t ed For mul at i ons
Wei gh
1-4
and heat t o 85C wi t h s l ow agi t at i on. The bl end has
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Creams 143
General Purpose W/O Cream
KtA
1 . A - C
Po l ye th y l ene 617 2 . 0
2 . Beeswax 3 . 0
3 . Rewomid S-280 1
. o
4 .
Amerchol CAB
5 . 0
5 . M i n e r a l O i l 1 1 . o
6 . I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e 8 . 8
7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i o s t e a r a t e
3 . 0
8 . S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 % ) 5 . 0
9 . Bo rax
0 . 3
10.Germal l 115 0 . 2
11 .Magnes ium S u l f a t e 0 . 3
12. Water 60 .0
Procedure:
Weigh 1 -7 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . The b l en d
has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x im a t e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l
waxes
w i l l
e v en t ua l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le n d.
I f
a h i g h e r s o l v -
a t i n g t em p e ra t ur e i s used, s o l v a t i o n ca n be much f a s t e r .
Ho l d t h e wax b l en d a t 85C. Hea t 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y
u n t i l a l l has d is s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85C.
P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add a queous phase t o i t
and s he ar w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 76C th e c rude d i s -
p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u ls i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n ue
s h e ar i ng w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e
th e whol e co n t en t i s p r op e r l y shea red . Add pe r fume , de -ae ra te and
package
.
General Purpose W/O Cream
y/tv
1 . A - C Po l ye th y l ene 617 2 . 0
2 .
A - C
Copolymer 540 3 . 0
3
Rewomid S-280
1 . o
4 . Amerchol Cab. 5 . 0
5 . M i n e r a l O i l 1 1 . o
6 . I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e 8 . 8
7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e
3 . 0
8 .
S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0
9 . Bo rax
0 . 3
10.Germal l 115 0. 2
1 1 .Magnes ium Sul fa te 0 . 3
12. Water 60.0
Procedure:
a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o xi m at e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l
waxes w i l l e v en t ua l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le n d. I f a h i g h e r s o l v -
a t i n g t e mp e r at u re i s used, s o l v a t i o n ca n be much f a s t e r . H o l d
t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. H ea t 8 -12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l
a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C.
P l ace wax b l en d i n m i x i n g co n t a i ne r , add aqueous phase t o
i t
and sh ea r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l .
A t
76C th e c rude d i sp -
e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k creamy e m u ls i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n ue
s h e ar in g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u re
t h e w h ol e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h ea r ed . Add pe rf um e, d e - a e r a te
and package.
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i gna l I n c . : F orm ul a 5011-19 -3 /5011-19 -4
Weigh 1 -7 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . The b l e nd has
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144
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose W/O Cream
1 .
A - C Po l ve thv l ene 617
2 . A - c
Copb lym i r
3. Amerchol
L-10
4 .
M i n e r a l O i l
5 . Dow F l u i d
556
6 .
2 -E thy l Hexy l
7 .
A r l a c e l 8 3
8 . S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 %
9 . Bo rax
10.Germal l 115
11 .Wate r
Procedure :
Weigh 1-7 and
a c l o u d o o i n t o f
540
S t e a r a t e
W t %
2 . 0
2 . 0
5 . 0
1 0 . 0
3 . 0
5 . 0
5 . 5
5 . 0
0 . 3
0 . 5
61 . 7
h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has
a o o r o x im a t e l v 80C. Above t h e c l o u d o o i n t a l l
.
waxes
w i i l
e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n th e b l e nd .
I f
a h i g h e r s o l v -
a t i n g t e mp e r at u re i s used, s o l v a t i o n c an b e much f a s t e r . H o ld
t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. H ea t 8 -1 1 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l
a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85C.
P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous ph ase t o i t
and shea r w i t h homomixer
o r
c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 79C th e c rude d i sp -
e r s i o n i n v e r t s an d a t h i c k c re am y e m u ls i on f o r m s. C o n ti n ue
s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make sure
t h e wh o le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s he a re d . Add p e rf um e , d e - ae r a te
and package.
General Purpose W/O Cream
W t %
1 . A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 0
2 . Beeswax 2 . 0
3 . Amerchol 1-101 5 . 0
4 .
M i n e r a l O i l 8 . 2
5 . Dow F l u i d 200-350 cps 1
o
6 .
2 - E t h yl H ex yl S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0
7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i o s t e a r a t e 5 . 5
8 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1
9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0
10. Borax 0 .3
11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
0 . 2
12 .Water 59 .7
Procedure :
a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x im a t e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l
waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le nd . I f a h i g h e r s o l v -
a t i n g t e m p e r at u r e i s use d, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d
t h e wax b l en d a t 85C. Hea t 9-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g en t l y
u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H ol d a t 85C.
P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous p ha se t o
i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 68C t h e c ru de
d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k creamy em u ls io n f or m s. C o n t i nu e
s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u re
t h e wh o le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h ea re d . Add pe rf um e , d e - a e r a t e
and package.
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i gn a l I n c . : F o rmu l as Re f . 5011-20 -4 /5011 -22-1
Weigh 1 -8 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow ag i t a t i o n . The b l e nd has
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Creams 145
General Purpose W/O Cream
1 . A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 0
2 . Beeswax 2 . 0
3 . Amerchol L-101
5 . 0
4 . M i ne ra l O i l ,
7 0
v i s . 8 . 2
5 . Dow F l u i d 200, 350 c s . 1
. o
6 .
2 - E t h y l H e xy l S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0
7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i o s t e a r a t e
5 . 5
8 . P ropy l -P -Hyd roxybenzoa t e 0 . 1
9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0
10.Sodium Bo ra te , Anhydrous 0 . 3
11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2
12.Germal l 115 0. 3
13. Water 59 .4
a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o xi m at e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l
waxes
w i l l
e v e n t ua l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le nd .
I f
a h i g h e r s o l v -
a t i n g t em p e ra t ur e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c an be much f a s t e r . H o ld t h e
wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l
h as d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C.
P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , a dd a qu eo us pha se t o i t
a nd s h ea r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c r u d e d i s p -
e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k cr ea my e m u ls i on f o rm s . C o n t i n u e
s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u re
t h e w h ol e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h ea re d . Add p e rf um e, d e - a e r a t e
and package.
Weigh 1 -8 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d ha s
General Purpose W/O Cream
W B
1 .
A - C
P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 5
2.
A - C
Copolymer 540 1 . 5
3 . Beeswax 2 .0
4 . L a n t r o l 9 . 5
5 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 1 5 . 0
6 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 1 0 .0
7 . 2 - E t h y l H e xy l S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0
8 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5
9 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1
10 . So rb i t o 1 (70%) 7 . 0
11 .Borax 0 . 3
12.Magnesi um S u l f a t e 0 . 3
13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2
14.Germal l 115 0 . 2
15 .Water 34.9
Weigh 1 -9 a nd h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax
b l e n d h as a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d
p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t ua l l y d i s s o l v e i n b l e nd .
I f
a h i g h e r
t e m p e ra t u r e i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e
wax b l en d a t 80-85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l
a l l i s d i s s o l v ed . H ol d a t 85C.
P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , ad d aqueous p ha se t o i t
an d s he a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i 11 . A t approx imate l y 80C
th e c rude d i sp e r s i on i n v e r t s . Some wa te r may not b e c o m p l e t e l y
t ak en up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o nt in u e d s h e ar i ng w i l l i n c o r p o r a t e i t
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i gn al I n c . : Formula Ref :5011-24-2/Ref : 5011-24-4
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Creams
147
General Purpose W /O Cream
W S
1 .
A - C
Po lye th y le ne 617A 3 .0
2. Beeswax 2 . 0
3 . N i m l e s t e r o l D 5 . 0
4 . M i n e r a l
O i l ,
70 v i s . 8 . 2
5 . Dow F l u i d 200-350 cps 1
. o
6 . 2 - E t h yl H e xy l S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0
7. Emerest 2452 5 . 5
8 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1
9 . S o r b i t o l (70%)
5 . 0
1 0 .
Borax 0 . 3
11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2
12.Water 59.7
a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o xi m at e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l
waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le n d. I f
a
h i g h e r s o l v -
a t i n g t e m p e ra t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d
t h e wax b l e n d a t 05C. He at 9-1 2 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l
a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85C.
P l ace wax b l en d i n m i x i ng co n t a i ne r , add aqueous phase t o i t
and s h ea r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 68C t h e c r u d e d i s p
e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k creamy e mu l si o n f o rm s . C o n ti n ue
s h e ar i ng w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e
t h e wh o le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s he a re d . Add pe r fu m e, d e - a e r a t e
and package.
Weigh 1 -0 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s l ow a g i t a t i o n . The b l end has
M inera l O il Cream W /O
ut3
1 . A - C Po l ye thy l ene 617
3 . 0
2 . A - C Copolymer
540
1 . o
3 . Beeswax 2 . 0
4 . M i n e r a l
O i l ,
70 v i s . 2 5 . 0
5 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 3 . 0
6 . 2 - E t h yl H ex yl S t e a r a t e 9 . 4
7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i
i
o s t e a r a t e 3 . 5
0 . P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 . 2
9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 7 . 0
10.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 0 . 3
11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 3
12 .Magnes ium Su l fa te
0 . 3
13.Water 45.0
a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o xi m at e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l
waxes
w i l l
e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le nd . I f a h i g h e r s o l v -
a t i n g t e m pe r a tu r e i s u sed, s o l v a t i o n c an be much f a s t e r . H o ld
t h e wax b l e n d a t 05C. H ea t 9-1 3 t o 85-9OC a nd s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l
a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85C.
P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , a dd aqueous p ha se t o i t
and shear w i t h homomixer or c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 77C t h e c r u d e d i s p -
e r s i o n i n v e r t s an d a t h i c k creamy e mu l si o n f or m s. C o n ti n ue
s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u re
t h e w ho le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e ar e d. Add pe r fu m e, d e -a e r ea t e
and package.
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Formula R e f 5011-22-1A/5011-22-4
Weigh
1 - 3
and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d ha s
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148 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose W/O Cream
KtB
1 . A - C Po l y e th y l e ne 617A 2 .0
2. A - C Copolymer 540 3 . 0
3 .
Beeswax 2.0
4 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 1 5 . 0
5 . Dow F l u i d 334 9 .5
6 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 1 0. 0
7 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S te a ra te 10 .0
8 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5
9 . P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 . 1
1 0 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 7 . 0
11 .Borax 0 .3
12 .Magnesi um S u l f a t e 0.3
13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2
14 .Germal l 115 0 .2
1 5 .Water 34 .9
Procedure:
a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o xi m at e ly 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l
waxes w i l l e v e n t ua l l y d i s s o lv e i n t h e b le nd . I f a h i g h e r s o l v -
a t i n g t e m p er a tu r e i s u se d, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d
t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. H ea t 10 -1 5 t o 85-9OC an d s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l
a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o ld a t 85C.
and sh e ar w i t h h omomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 80C th e c rude d i s p -
e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k creamy e m u ls i on f or m s . C o n t i n u e
s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e
t h e wh o le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h ea re d. Add p er fu me , d e - a e r a te
and package.
R ef : 501 1-31 -2
Weigh 1 -9 a nd h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d h as
P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , a dd aqueous ph ase t o i t
Oil-In-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivat ive
1 . A - C 617 Po l y e th y l en e 2 .0%
2 . S t e a r i c A c i d 0 . 5
3 . Lanogene ( l a n o l i n a l c o h o l
&
m in er a l o i l ) 6 .0
4 .
I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e 1 2. 5
5 . S o r b i t a n M o no s te a ra te 1 . 3
6 .
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e 20 S o r b i t a n M o n os t ea r a te 1 . 8
7 . Sorbo ( s o r b i t o l 7 0 , water 30%) 5 . 0
8. Carbopo l
940
1 . o
9 . Gerrnaben I 1 0.8
10. Water 68. 35
11 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
0 . 7 5
12.Per fume Q.S.
Procedure :
Weigh 1-6, th en weigh
7 - 1 0 .
He at 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g
a homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . When th e aqueous s o l u t i o n reaches
85C, h ea t o i l phase t o 90-95C w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e
wax h as d i s s o l v e d . Combine 1-1 0 and s h ea r u n t i l m i x t u r e i s
homogeneous. Add 11 and shear w e l l . Cool t o 55C and add 12.
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r mu l at i on s
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15 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Gentle Night Repair Cream
T h i s p r o d u c t e n c a ps u la t e s an a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t w hi ch c an
d ec re as e t h e o x i d a t i o n of a p rec i ou s compound t h e re by i nc re as i n g
s h e l f l i f e and r e du c i n g t h e chance of r a n c i d i t y . The em ul si on
i s v e ry s t a b l e , q u i c k l y p e n et r at e s t h e s k i n and le av es a s i l k y
f e e l .
O i l
Phase:
Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 7 .10%
O z o k e r i t e Wax 160/164 (K os te r Keunen) 2.20%
L i g h t M i ne r a l
O i l
(Wi tco) 7 .60%
Iso p r op y l Pa l m i t a te (Un ichema) 3 .00%
Gl yc e r i ne M onos tea ra te (Henkel ) 1.20%
PEG-100 S te a r a t e ( L i po) 1.00%
E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF (K o s te r Keunen) 1.0 0%
V i t a m i n E (Roche) 0.10%
V i t a m i n A P a lm i t a te (BASF) 0.10%
S a f f l o w e r O i l ( L i po ) 2 .00%
L i quapa r (Su t t on ) 0 .50%
Wheat Germ O i l (L ipo) 3 .00%
Squalane (Centerchem) 2.00%
P ro p yl en e G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x ) 4.00%
S i l i c o n e 200/100 (Dow) 2 .00%
Water Phase:
Water ( D i s t i 1 e d ) 35.8%
Met hy l Paraben (S ut to n) 0 .30%
Sodi um Bo ra te (Bo rax ) 0.60%
Ca rb op ol 940 2% 10.00%
Act i ve Phase :
Phenoni p (N i pa ) 0.50%
H y a l u r o n i c A c i d ( A c t i v e O r g an i cs ) 1
.OO%
Firming Liposome (Centerchem) 4.00
APT
(Centerchem) 3.00%
Procedure:
H ea t t h e com po nen ts o f t h e o i l ph ase, m ix a nd m a i n t a i n a t a
t e m p e r at u r e o f 82C. I n a s e p a r a te v e s s e l d i s s o l v e t h e com po nen ts
o f t h e wa te r phase w h i l e m i x i n g and i n c r e a s i n g t h e t e mp e r at u re
t o 80C. Add t h e o i l p ha se t o t h e w a t e r p h as e u n de r m o de ra te
a g i t a t i o n , and c o o l s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . When a t e mp e ra t u re o f
40C i s m ixed, add phenon ip . Cool t o 35C and add t h e th re e ac -
t i v e s . C oo l t o room t e m p e r at u r e .
Adap t i on o f f or mu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e
on
t h e p r od u c t :
You ca n s u b s t i t u t e y ou r p r e f e r r e d s ec on da ry e m u l s i f i e r and
some o i l s w i t h o n l y s l i g h t changes t o v i s c o s i t y , g l o s s , e t c .
The co nc en t r a t i o n o f Cera B e l l i n a (CTFA=Pg-3 Beeswax) can on ly
be s l i g h t l y a l t e r e d s in ce
i t
h e l p s c o n t r o l c o n s i st e n c y and t h e
m i c e l l e s i z e and shape. The w at er s o l u b l e b i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e
i n g r e d i e n t s a re w e l l p r o t e c t e d i n t h i s t y pe o f e mu ls io n a l l o w i n g
you t o i n c o r p o r a t e a w id e r a n ge o f a c t i v e compounds. A f o rm u l a -
t i o n o f t h i s t yp e i s n o t a f f e ct e d by i o n i c s t r e n g t h .
SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rm u l a t i on
In cr o po l SC-20 (Croda) 4.00%
I s o s te a r i c Ac i d (Un ichema)
4 . 0 0 %
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Creams
151
Glossy Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 721s
B Wate r , de i on i zed
Carbopol 934
0
10.00
4 . 0 0
85.50
0 . 1 0
C Sod ium hydrox ide (10 W / W aqueous)
0 . 1 0
D D o w i c i l 2 0 0 0 . 1 0
E
F rag rance 0 .20
Procedure :
b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add
( D )
when t h e t em p era tu r e
drops below 50C.
Add
( E )
below 40C. Add wat er t o compensate
f o r e v a po r a t i o n.
Hom ogen ize. A d j us t pH t o 5 .5 - 6 .5 .
Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w ly u s i n g
Glossy Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 721s
B r i j 72
%w/w
12.00
4.00
2.80
2 . 2 0
B Water , d e i on i zed 78 .80
C
D o w i c i l 2 0 0
0 . 1 0
D Fragrance 0 . 1 0
Procedure:
Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C w i t h g ood p r o p e l l e r a g i t -
a t i o n . Add (C) a t 50C and mix th or ou gh ly . Add (D) a t 35C. Add
w a te r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
SOURCE:
IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s :
S u g g e s t e d
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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152
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Glycolic
Acid Cream
A r i c h cream w i t h t h e b e n e f i t s
o f
an a lpha-hydroxy a c i d .
I n c o r p o r a t i o n o f Ge ah le ne 750 h e l p s m o i s t u r i z e t h e s k i n and
g i v e s i t a r i c h , s i l k y a f t e r f e e l .
Innred ien t /T rade Name:
De io n i zed Water
Maanesium Aluminum Si l i ca t e /V eea um U l t r a
Xanthan Gum/Kel t r o l
Methy lparaben
Bu ty l ene G1y c o l
Tetrasodium EDTA/Hamp-Ene
220
M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated But y len e /E thy len e /
Sty re ne Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Et hy le ne /
Pro py l ene /Sty ren e Copolymer / /Geahlene 750
-
DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol
C12-15
A 1
k y l Benzoate /F i n so lv TN
Propy lparaben
C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 1 6
S t e a r i c
A c i
d/Emersol 132
D i
azo1 i i ny l Urea /Germal l
G l y c o l i Ac i d/G1 y pu re 70%
Dei o n i zed Water
Sodi um H yd ro xi d e
Wei q h t%
61 . O O
1 . o o
0 . 3 0
0.20
5 . 00
0.10
9-00
2 .00
5 . 0 0
0 . 1 0
2 .00
4.00
0 . 3 0
8 . 0 0
1 . o o
1 . o o
Procedure:
D i sp e r se Veegum i n r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i z e d w a te r ( p a r t A ) .
Add K e l t r o l . H eat t o 80C. M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a s e p ar a te co n t-
a i n e r , h ea t p a r t B t o 8OC and mix u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s -
o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . M i x f o r 30 m in u te s u n t i l c o m pl e te l y
homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t C and m ix w e l l . Add p remixed
p a r t D . C on t i nu e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 3 0 C . Add f ra gr an ce a t 30C
i f d e s i r e d .
SOURCE: Penreco : Sugges ted For mu l a t i o n
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Creams
153
Hand and Body Cream
A r i c h , p r o t e c t i v e hand and body cream d e si gn e d t o r e l i e v e
d ryness and l eave t h e sk i n s o f t and s i l k y smooth. Geahlene 750
p r o vi d es l o n g - l a s t i ng moi s t u r i z a t i on , a p e r c e p t i b l e c o n d i t i o n i n g
e f f e c t , and an e le g an t a f t e r f e e l .
Innred ient /T rade Name:
De ion i zed Water
Carbomer/CarboDol 940
Pro pyle ne G1 y c o l
Methy lparaben
Panthenol /DL-Panthenol
M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty len e /E thy lene /
Sty ren e Copolymer (and) Hydro genated Eth y len e/
Pro pyl ene /St yre ne Copolymer//Geahlene 750
Propy l ene G l yco l
D i
c a p r r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e / /M y r i t o 1
PC
I s o s t e a r y l A l c oh c l
/ P r i
s o r i ne 351 5
Propy lparaben
C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( an d) P E G - 1 0 0 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 1 6 5
Po ta ss i um C e t y l Phosphate/Amphi s o l K
T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e / V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e
T r ie thano lam ine , 99%
D i a z o l i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l
I 1
Soy Lecithin/Sedermasome
Fragrance
Wei u h t%
70.60
0.20
7.00
0.20
0 . 1 0
7 . 0 0
5.00
2.00
0 .10
2.00
2 . 5 0
1 . 7 5
0.10
0 .15
0 . 2 0
1 . 0 0
0.10
Procedure:
D i s p e rs e Carbomer i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i z ed w a t e r . Add
r em a in in g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 75-80C and m ix u n t i l u n i -
fo rm and lump- f ree . Combine p a r t B . Heat t o 80C and m ix u n t i l a l l
t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t
A .
M i x f o r 30
m in u te s w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add p a r t
C .
M ix u n t i l c o m p le t e l y
smooth and homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t
D .
Cool t o 40C. Add
p a r t E . C o n ti n ue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.
SOURCE: Penreco : Suggested Form u l a t i on
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154 Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
High Content Mineral Oil Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A
M i n e r a l o i 1 , ( C a r n a t i o n b r a n d )
B r i j 721s
B r i j
72
70.00
3.70
3 . 3 0
B Water , d e i on i zed 22.60
C Sodium h yd ro xi de (10% aqueous) 0.10
D D o w i c i l 200 0.10
E
H e r b a l f r a g r a n c e (SL 79-1224,
P W )
0.20
Procedure:
m oderate ancho r t yp e a g i t a t i o n and add
( C ) .
Add
( D )
a t a b o u t
50C.
Add ( E) a t 35C and add wa te r t o compensate f o r l o s s due
t o e va p or a t i on .
Formula PC-9026
Heat (A) t o 65C and ( B ) t o
60C.
Add ( A ) t o ( 8 ) s l ow l y w i t h
O/W Pet ro la tum Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s
:
A P e t r o l a t u m , w h i t e
B r i j 721, POE 21 s t e a r y l e t h e r
B r i j
72,
POE
2
s t e a r y l e t h e r
Dimeth icone (350 c s . )
B Water , de i on i zed
Carbomer 934
%w/w
35.00
1 .oo
4.00
3.00
56.70
0.10
C
NaOH, 10% a q u e o u s s o l u t i o n
0.10
D Germal l I 1 0.10
Procedure:
an cho r s t i r r i n g . Add
( C ) .
Add
( D )
below
50C.
S t i r
t o 35C and
add any wa t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Formula CP 1090
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S u u u e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat ( A ) t o 70C and (8 ) t o 72C. Add (B) to ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e
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C r e a m
155
Hydrocortisone C ream
I n Q r e d i e n t s : %w/w
Phase A :
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l 5. 0
G l y c e r i n 2 . 5
Water 10.0
H y d r o c o r t i s o n e USP ( 0 . 5 / 1
. O )
Phase B:
Water
Q . S .
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
Q . S .
Phase
C :
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 45 0)
3 . 0
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e go s o f t O S ) 6 . 0
O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e go s o ft OP) 5 .0
M i n e r a l O i l 5 .5
G1 yc er y l S t ea ra te (Teg i n M) 1 .B
S t e a r y l A1 coho1 0 . 8
Ce ty l D imeth i cone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1
. o
Phase D:
Fragrance Q . S .
Procedure:
1 .
2 .
3.
4 .
5.
6 .
Mix Phase A t o d i s s o l v e t h e a c t i v e .
Add t h e b a l a n c e o f t h e w a t e r o f Phase B p l u s t h e p r e s e r v -
a t i v e s . ( A l l o w f o r w a te r l o s s d u r i n g m an u f ac t ur i ng ) . Heat
A/B t o 70C.
Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M i x . M a i n t a i n t em p e ra t ur e
o f 70C.
B e gi n c o o l i n g when f u l l y d i s p e r s e d . B e g i n h o mo g en iz at io n
a t 60C.
Homogenize w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C
Add f r ag ra nc e w i t h sweep m i x e r .
All Natural Cream
W/O type)
I n Q r e d i e n t s :
Phase A :
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 O le a te ( I s o l a n GO 33) 4.0
Hydrogenated Castor O i l 1 .5
Beeswax 1.5
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g os o ft O S ) 11 .5
C e t e a r y l O c ta n oa te ( T e g o s of t L i q u i d ) 1 1 . 5
Phase B:
G1 y c e r i n 2 . 5
D-panthenol 0 .5
Magnesium S u l f a t e 0 .5
Water 66.5
Phase C :
F rag rance Q . S .
Procedure:
1. A d d t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase
A
t o a m ix t a n k . H ea t t o 80-85C
2 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B. H ea t t o 6 5-70C.
3 . Add Phase 0 t o Phase A . Homogen ize and coo l t o 40C w i t h m ix in g
4 . Add t h e f rag ran ce . Coo l and f i l l .
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
and d is pe rs e th e waxes. Cool t o 65-70C.
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I56
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hydrogen Peroxide Cream
I n s r e d i e n t s :
A S t e a r i c ac id , t r i p l e pre ssed
6.00
A r l a c e l 60 2 .00
Tween 60
3.00
B Water , de i on i zed
71.72
Phenacet in
0 .04
Disodium e t h y l e n e d i a r n i n e t e t r a - a c e t a t e
d i h y d r a t e 0 .1 0
C H yd ro ge n p e r o x i d e , 35% d i l u t i o n g ra d e
17.14
D Phosphor i c ac id , 10% C . P . , as r e q u i r e d
Procedure :
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat
(8)
o 72C. Add
( B )
t o (A ) s l ow l y
w i t h th o r ou g h a g i t a t i o n . Co ol t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compen-
s a t e f o r l o s t w a te r due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o
3 . 5 - 4 . 0 b y a d d i n g
( D ) .
Hydrogen Peroxide Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A C e t y l a l c o h o l
A r l a c e l 4 0
Tween 40
B
Water , de i on i zed
C
H ydro ge n p e r o x i d e (10 % d i l u t i o n g r ad e )
D Phospho r i c ac i d (10% C . P . ) as r e q u i r e d
10.00
2 .00
3 .00
17.14
67.86
Procedure :
w i t h th o r ou g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate
f o r l o s t w a te r due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t p H t o 3 .5 -4 .0
by addin g (D) .
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat
(8)
o 72C. Add (8) o ( A ) s l o w l y
Hydrogen Peroxide Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A
C e t y l a l c o h o l
B Water , de i on i zed
C Hydrogen perox ide (10% d i l u t i o n g rade)
D
Phospho r ic a c i d (10% C .P .) a5 r eq u i re d
A r l a c e l 1 6 5
&y
10.00
2 .50
70.36
17.14
Procedure :
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A) s l o w l y w i t h
t h or o u gh a g i t a t i o n . C ool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r
l o s t w a t er d ue t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o
3 .5 -4 .0 by add i ng ( D ) .
SOURCE:
I C 1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Creams 157
Hydroxy Acid Cream
(W/O Emuls ion)
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Phase A:
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d) C e t y l D i me t hi c on e C o p ol y ol
(and) Hexy l La ur at e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 5
Ce ty l D imeth ic one ( A b i l Wax
9801)
1
. o
Cyc 1omet h
i
one
5 .0
Isohexadecane 4.0
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t O S ) 5 .0
S tea ry l Hep tanoa te (T egoso f t
SH)
2 .5
Beeswax 0 . 6
Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l 0 . 6
Phase 8:
Water 6 7 . 7
Sodium Ch l o r i d e 0 . 6
L a c t i c A c i d (44% S o l u t i o n )
5 . 0
Sodium S a l i c y l a t e 1 . 5
P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S .
Sodium L a c ta t e (and) Sodium PCA ( and ) G l yc i n e (and )
F ru c tos e (and ) I n o s i t o l ( and ) Sodium Benzoate (and )
L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 1
. o
Phase C :
Fragrance Q . S .
Procedure :
1 . Heat Phase A i n a c lo se d k e t t l e t o 85C, m ix in g u n t i l
a l l components a r e f u l l y d i s p e r s e d o r s o l u b i l i z e d . When
un i fo r m, co o l t o 45-5OC.
2 . M ix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase
B
t o ge th er . Heat t o 40-45C.
3. Add B t o A s l o w ly w i t h s o f t p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n (150-250
4. Homogenize a t 35-40C. 5. Add f ragrance .
RPM's). M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Moistur iz ing Cream
Cold Process
W/O
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Phase
A:
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (a nd ) C e t y l D im e th ic o ne
Copo lyo l (and) Hexyl La ur a te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0
M i n e r a l O i l 5 .0
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T eg o s of t CT) 5 . 0
I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e go so f t
M )
5 .0
Phase 8:
Water 79.2
Sod ium Ch lo r ide 0.8
P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S.
Perfume
Q . S .
C o l o r Q . S .
Procedure :
1 .
M ix t h e o i l s o f Phase
A
t o g e t h e r . M i x w e l l . 2. D i s s o l v e t h e
3 .
Add Phase 6 s l o w l y i n t o Phase A
w i t h
a g i t a t i o n . 4 . Homogenize
5 . P re se r va t i ve s , pe r fum e and c o l o r can be added a t any t i m e .
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemica l Corp.: Suggested Formulat ions
sodium c h l o r i d e i n t h e w at er . M ix u n t i l u n i f or m.
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158
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Light Texture Hand Creme
T h i s h i g h h um ec ta nt creme p r o v i d e s a no n -g r ea s y, l o n g l a s t i n g
s o o th i ng f e e l .
P a r t A :
Phosphol i i d SV
Stea re th -20
G1 yce r i
Methyl Paraben
Water
P a r t :
S t e a r e t h - 2
C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l
M yr i s t y l M yr i s t a t e
F i n s o l v
TN
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
D i m e th i cone (100 c S )
Propy l Paraben
% B Y Weiaht
3 . 0 0
0 .45
5 . 0 0
0 . 2 5
77.75
0 . 8 0
3 . 5 0
3 .50
1 . 5 0
3 . 0 0
1
. o o
0.25
Procedure:
Hea t bo th phases t o 65C, and homogen ize t h e o i l phase i n t o
t h e w a t e r p ha se . S t i r - c o o l t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g
o r p r e s e r va t i ve
Th
exce l
n i g h t
s e l e g a n t
e n t r u b o
s k i n c a r e .
a s r e q u i r e d .
Facial Moisture Creme
f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v id e s h i g h mo
f r e s i s ta n ce , and i s i d e a l l y
P a r t
A :
Phosphol i i d SV
Stea re th -20
Methy l Paraben
Water
P a r t
0 :
S t e a r e t h - 2
C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l
M yr i s t y l M yr i s t a t e
I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e
Dimethicone (1OOcS)
L a n o l i n A l c o h o l
Propy l Paraben
Procedure:
s t u r i z a t i n,
s u i t e d f o r o ve r-
%
B Y
Weiaht
3 . 0 0
0 .20
0 . 2 5
81 - 5 0
1 . 3 0
4 .00
4.00
4.00
1 - 0 0
0 . 5 0
0 . 2 5
Heat bo th phases t o 65C, and homogen ize t h e o i l phase i n t o
t h e w at e r ph as e. S t i r - c o o l t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g
o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : P h o s p h o l i p i d
S V :
Suggested
F o r m u 1a t i n s
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16 Cosmetic
and
Toiletry
Formulations
Multi-functional Day Cream
T h i s Bee 's M i l k f o rm u l a t i o n c re a t es a b a r r i e r t h a t e f f e c t i v e l y
r e p l e n i s h e s m o is t ur e , s o f t e n s an d i m p a r t s r a d i a n c e . T h i s w i l l
combat d r y s k i n ca used by v a r i a t i o n s i n h u m i d i t y and
w i l l
h e l p
t o m in im iz e t h e s i gn s
o f
a g i n g .
Water Phase I:
Bermocol E 481 (Wh i t t ake r )
G lycer ine (Un ichema)
Water ( D i s t i l l e d )
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
O i l Phase:
N i k ko l Lec i no l S-10-M (Ba rne t )
Squa l ane (Po l ye s t he r )
Macademia Nut
O i l
( T r i - K )
Borage
O i l
( T r i - K )
V i t a m i n E (BASF)
V i t a m i n
A
Palmi ta te (BASF)
Ke st er Wax-62 ( K o s t e r Keunen)
Gl yc er o l Monos teara te (Kos te r Keun
Oz ok er i te 158 /160 (K os te r Keunen)
Cera A lb a la t e 103 ( Ko s t e r Keunen)
P h y t o g l y c o l i p i d ( B ar n et )
L i q u i p a r (S u t t o n )
Water Phase
11:
Bee ' s M i l k (Ko s te r Keunen)
en 1
0 . 4 %
2 .7%
52.1%
0.2%
2.1%
7.9%
4.3%
2.9%
0.3%
0.3%
1.0%
0 .2
0.3%
0.3%
4.0%
1 . 0 %
2 0 . 0 %
Procedure :
o i l phase components, hea t t i l l 75C and m ix . Add s lo w ly t h e
water phase I t o t h e o i l p hase u nd er a g i t a t i o n ( ap p ro x. 700
rpm) m a i n t a i n i n g m i x i n g a te m p e r a t ur e o f 75C f o r 5 minutes
(make su re t h a t m ix in g does n o t exceed 800 rp m 's , as
a
phase
i n v e r s i o n w i l l o c c u r ) . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 50-55C, add w a t er ph as e
I1 a t room tem pera tu re , under m odera te a g i t a t i o n (app rox . 200
r p m ' s) , c o n t in u e m i x i n g f o r 5 m in u te s and p ou r i n t o c o n t a i n e r .
A da pt io n o f f o rm u la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r od u c t :
Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o rp o r a t e d t o g i v e t h i s p r od u c t an
SPF o f 6 -8 by us i ng Es ca lo l 507 (Van Dyk) a t app rox ima te l y 5%
and r e d u c i ng t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f wa te r and o r o i l s .
SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c .
:
Sugges ted Formu la t i on
Mix and hea t wate r phase I com ponents t o 75C. Add a l l t h e
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Creams
161
Multi-Purpose Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A M in er a l o i l , C a rn a ti on
St ea ry l a1 coho1
B r i j 721s
B r i j
72
/ow/w
1 5 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
2 .50
2 .50
B Water , de i on i zed 74 .70
C
D o w i c i l 2 0 0 0 . 1 0
D Fragrance 0 .20
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 50C and m i x t h o r ou gh l y . Add
( D )
a t 35C
Add wate r t o compensate
f o r
l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t io n .
H ea t ( A ) t o 70C a nd ( B ) t o 75C w i t h g ood p r o p e l l e r
Versatile C ream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A C e t y l a l c o h o
B r i j 721s
B Water, de io n
Carbopol 934
zed
1 0 . 0 0
4.00
85.50
0 . 1 0
C
Sod ium hydrox ide (10%
W / W
aqueous) 0 . 1 0
D D o w i c i l 2 0 0
0 . 1 0
E Fragrance 0 . 2 0
Procedure :
b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add
( D )
when t h e t em pera t u re
dr op s belo w 50C. Add
( E )
bel ow 40C. Add wa te r t o compensate
f o r
eva po r a t i o n . Hom ogen ize. Ad j u s t pH t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat (A ) t o 70C and
(B)
t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w ly u s i ng
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162
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Night Cream (15% Aloe)
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A . Water
Methy lparaben
Promul gen-D
T r i et ha no l ami ne
B . Ceraphy l -368
Kessco-653
Emerson-1 323
L i g h t M i ne r a l O i l
G l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e
P ropy l pa raben
Vybar-5013
C . A l o e V e ra g el L i q u i d C o n c e n t r a t e 1 : 40
D . F rag rance
Aloe Bath Soap
I n n r e d i e n t s :
Sod i um Lau re t h S u l f a t e (60%)
D i sod i um Lau re th Su l fo su cc i na te
Percen t
67.625
0 . 2
2 . 0
0.75
1 0 . 0
3 .0
6 .0
6 .0
0 . 0 5
2 .0
2.0
0.375
Percen t
12 .0
7 . 0
Cocamidopropy l Be t a in e 6 .0
D i
sod i um
01
eamido MEA Sul f o s u c c i na te 6. 0
A l o e V er a ge l L i q u i d 1
:
1 5 . 0
C i t r i c A c id q . s . t o pH 6 .0
Sod i um Ch l o r i de q . s . t o 1M cps
Water , Dye, Pr e se rv at iv e , F ragrance 9.54. t o 100.0
Procedure:
Add components t o wa te r and hea t t o 40C. Ad j u s t v i s c o s i t y
w i t h s odium c h l o r i d e a nd p H w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add dye, p r es er v-
a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e a nd c o o l t o room t e m p e r at u r e .
SOURCE:
D r ,
Madi s L a b o r a to r i e s I n c . : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
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164
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil/Water Moisturizing Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
O c t y l d i me th yl PABA
M in er a l o i l
S t e a r y l a lc o h o l
B r i j 721s
B r i j 72
D i m e th i cone
Water , de i on i zed
Carbomer 940
Sodium hy dr ox id e (10%
W /W
aqueous)
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
*Fragrance
* q . s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .
@yy
5.00
5 .00
0.50
2 . 0 0
2.00
0.50
84.60
0 . 2 0
0 . 2 0
Procedure:
65C and add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S lo w ly add (C)
and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . C oo l t o 50C. Add ( D) a nd any w a t e r l o s t
due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
D i spe rse Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t (B ) t o 60C. Heat (A ) t o
Oil/Water Moisturizing Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s :
O c t y l d im et hy l PABA
Benzophenone-3
M in er al o i l
S t e a r y l a lc o h o l
B r i j 721s
B r i j 72
D i methi cone
Water , de i on i zed
Carbomer
940
Sodium hy dr ox id e (10% W /W aqueous)
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
*Fragrance
* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .
B
7.00
3 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
0 . 50
2.00
2.00
0 .50
79.60
0
I 2 0
0.20
Procedure:
65C and add
( B )
t o
( A )
w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S lo wl y add
( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . C oo l t o 50C. Add ( D) a nd any
w a te r l o s t due t o e v a p or a t i o n.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
D isp ers e Carbomer i n wate r and hea t (B ) t o 60C. Heat ( A ) t o
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Creams
165
Oi l /Water N ig h t Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed
M in er al o i l
C e t y l a l c o h o l
Beeswax
Amerchol H-9
I s o p r o p y l 1a n ol a t e
A r l a c e l 1 6 5
B T r i et ha no l ami ne
P r o p y l ene g l y c o l
Water
C
*F ragrance
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w
3 . 0 0
3 . 5 0
3 . 0 0
2 . 5 0
4 .00
1 . 5 0
6 . 0 0
1 . o o
2 . 5 0
73,OO
Procedure:
m oderate bu t t ho rough a g i t a t i o n . Add f rag ra nce a t 50C and
c on t i nu e t o s t i r u n t i l room t em pe ra tu re .
Heat (A ) t o 8OC. Heat ( B ) t o 85C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l ow l y w i t h
W/O Night Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a c e l 1 6 8 9
Ar lamol HD
Arlamol M812
Ar lamol DOA
P a r a f f i n o i l
Aeros i l R972
B
G l y c e r o l
MgS04.7H20
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
Water
C Perfume Rocel ia 74475
* q . s .
t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s
3 . 5 0
6 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
2.00
8 .00
0 . 5 0
4.00
0 . 5 0
73.35
0 . 1 5
Procedure:
Hea t phase (A) (w i t ho u t Ae ro s i l R972) t o 75C. S l o w l y add
A e r o s i l R972 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . H ea t phase ( B ) t o 75C. S l o w l y a dd
p ha se (€3) t o p hase ( A) w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenise
t h e m ix t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y . A l lo w t o co o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g
and add phase ( C ) and a l l o w t o c oo l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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66 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil/Water Pigmented Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A S t e a r i c a c id , t r i p l e p ressed
I s o p r op y l m yr i s t a t e
A r l a c e l
60
Tween 60
B Sorbo
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
T i a n i urn d io x i de
T a l c
C
I r o n o x i de
Water
D
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s .
t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w
12.00
1 - 0 0
2 . 0 0
1 - 0 0
3.00
12.00
2 . 0 0
8 . 0 0
1 . o o
58.00
Procedure:
s l o w l y w i t h c o n st a nt a g i t a t i o n . Add ( D ) . Homogenize i f
necessa ry .
Heat (A ) t o 9OC and
( B )
t o 95C. Add (6) and
( C )
t o (A)
O/W All-Purpose Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
S t e a r i c a c i d
Lano l i n
Beeswax
M in er al o i l
Tween 85
A r l a c e l 85
Sorbo 70% s o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i o n
Water
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
*Perfume
* q . s . t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .
%w-y
1 5 . 0 0
4 . 0 0
2.00
23.00
1
. o o
1 - 0 0
12.20
41 .80
Procedure:
m oderate b u t t ho rough a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room
temperature and package.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
He at ( A) t o 7 5 C . Heat (6) o 77C. Add (6) o (A ) s l ow l y w i t h
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Creams
167
O il- in-W ater- in-O il C ream
O i
1 i -Water Phase:
O i l Phase:
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1
P a r a f
f
i
C e t y l a l c o h o l
P ol yo xy et hy le ne s o r b i t a n t r i s t e a r a t e
D i g l y c e r i n monool ea te
Water Phase:
B e n t o n i t e
D e x t r i n P a l m i t a t e
G1 y c e r i n
Methy lparaben
Water
Add o i l - i n - w a t e r e mu ls io n t o t h e f o l l o w i n g o i l phase:
P a r a f f i n
C e t y l A l c o h o l
Beeswax
S o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e
Sorb i t an m onos tea ra te
Bu ty l pa raben
B e n t o n i t e
D e x t r i n p a l m i t a t e
C a r n a t i o n
M i
n e r a l O i
1
15.00%
2 . 0 0
3 . 0 0
1 . o o
2.00
0 . 5 0
1 . 0 0
5.00
0 .10
29.80
5.00
3 .00
2.00
3 .00
1 . o o
0 . 1 0
0 . 5 0
1 . 0 0
25.00
Transparent Cleansing Cream
D i ( p o ly o x y e th y 1 e n e l a u r y l e t h e r ) p ho sp ha te so diu m s a l t 5 .0 0%
G l y c e r y l t r i 2 - e t hy l hexanoa te 40 .00
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 20.00
G l y c e r i n 30.00
Water 5.00
SOURCE: Wi tco Co rp . : Pe t ro l eum S p e c i a l t i e s Group : Sugges ted
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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168 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Protective Hand Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
A r l a c e l 1 6 5
S t e a r i c a c i d
P e t r o l a t u m
Ar lamol
HD
Ar lamol E
B
At las G-2330
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
Water
o/ w/w
6 .00
2 . 0 0
7 . 0 0
10.00
3 . 0 0
4 . 0 0
66.35
C Fomblin HC/R 1
. 5 0
D *Pe rfu me, Bouquet Eau de Mer
P C
916.315 0.15
* q . s .
t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
P rocedure :
Heat phases (A ) and
( 6)
se pa ra te l y t o 75C. Add phase (A )
s l o w l y o ( 6 ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Add phase ( C) and
homogen se f o r 1 m i n u t e a t 75C. A l l o w t o c oo l w h i l e s t i r r i n g .
Homogen se ag ai n a t
40C
a f t e r t h e a d d i t i o n o f phase ( D ) . A l l o w
t o c o o l down t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g a nd pa ck ag e.
Hand Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
Arlamol E
B r i j 721s
B r i j 72
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
%w/w
8 . 0 0
2 . 4 0
2 . 6 0
4 . 0 0
B Water 82.80
C
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
D
F rag rance 0 .20
* q . s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
b l ad e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add C ) . Add ( D ) when th e temper a tu re
dr op s belo w 50C. Add ( E ) below
40C .
Add water
t o
compensate
f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . H om og en ize . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
Formula S K - 5
SOURCE:
I C 1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 75C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g
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Creams 169
Modif ied Oil- in-Water Stearic Acid Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A S t e a r i c a c id , t r i p l e p resse d
Ar lamol E
A r l a c e l
1 6 5
B S or bo , s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n USP
Water
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
m
8 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
1 0 . 0 0
75
I O 0
*q. s . t h e s e
i
g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room t em pe ra tu re w i t h s t i r r i n g .
Formula
SK-2B
Heat ( A ) t o
70C.
Heat
( 6 )
t o
72C.
Add
( 6 )
t o (A) w i t h r a p i d
Skin Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a c e l
1 6 5 ,
a c i d s t a b l e g .m .s .
Lanol i n
C e t y l a1 coho1
M in er al o i l
B P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
Wa te r , de i on i zed
1 2 . 0 0
1 - 0 0
3 . 0 0
4 . 0 0
1
o o
7 9 . 0 0
Procedure:
moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C a nd a dd wa t e r l o s t d ue t o e vap -
o r a t i o n .
Heat (A) t o
70C.
Heat
B)
t o
72C.
Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w ly w i t h
Hand Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A
S t e a r i c a c id , t r i p l e p re ssed
I s o p r op y l m yr i s t a t e o r m i ne r a l o i 1
A r l a c e l
1 6 5
B Sorbo
Water , de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
*q .
s . t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .
y?y.y
20.00
2 . 00
5 . 0 0
2 0 . 0 0
5 3 . 0 0
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n .
S t i r
u n t i l s e t .
SOURCE: I C 1 Su r fa c t an t s : Suggested F o rm u l a t i ons
Heat
( A )
t o
70C.
Heat ( 6 ) t o 7 2 C . Add ( 8 ) t o (A) r a p i d
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17 Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
Mois tur i zer O/W Cream
T h i s p r o d u c t u t i l i z e s t h e m i no r c omponents o f n a t u r a l
p ro du ct s t o d e l i v e r m i l d a n t i - m i c r o b i a l a c t i v i t y , wh ich a l l ow s
t h e f o r m u la t o r t o r ed uc e t h e co n c e n t ra t i o n o f s y n t h e t i c p re s-
e r v a t i v e s . The l i g h t y e l lo w c o l o u r e d cream q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s
t h e s k i n , l e a v i n g a n on -g re as y f e e l and d i m in i s h e s t h e s ig n s o f
ag i ng by 1 a y i ng down a
f
1 e x i b l e b a r r i e r .
O i l Phase:
Orange Wax (K o s te r Keunen)
NF Y e l l o w Beeswax (K os te r Keunen)
I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Un ich ema )
Almond
O i l
( A r i s t a )
M i n e r a l
O i l
(W i t co )
G l yce ro l M onos tea ra te (Henke l )
C e t y l s t e a r y l A l co h ol
( P & G )
Octy l Pa l m i t a te (Un i chem a)
Water Phase:
Water ( D i s t i 1 e d )
Propy lene Gl yc o l (Dow)
Tr ie thano lam ine (Dow)
P o l y s o r b a t e
60
( G a l l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r )
Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )
4 . 5
2.5%
1
.O%
3.0%
3 . 5
6.0
6.0
2.5%
67 . 0
1 . 5 %
1 .O%
0.2%
0 . 5 %
Procedure :
o i l phase a t
75C
u nd er a g i t a t i o n . C o nt in u e m i x i n g t i l l c o o l .
A d a pt a t i o n o f f or mu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o du c t :
w i th o u t a l t e r i n g t h e a e s t h e t i c s . Changing t h e ty pe s o f o i l s
sho uld o n l y a l t e r t h e v i s c o s i t y , i f m a in t a i n in g s i m i l a r
c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f o i 1
s.
V i s c o s i t y ch ang es a r e a c h i e v e d b y
r e d uc i ng t h e c o n c en t r a t io n o f c e t y l s t e a r y l a l c o h o l and g l y c e r o l
monos teara te , by appr ox imate l y 30-40 , however t h i s may cause
s t a b i 1
i
y .
SOURCE:
Koster Keunen,
I n c . :
Suggested Formulat ions
Add a m ixed and un i f o r m water phase t o a m ixed and un i f o r m
A c t iv e s a r e e a s i l y i n c o rp o r a t e d i n t o a p r o du c t such as t h i s
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Creams 171
M oisturizing C ream
T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n de m on st ra te s a p o l y m e r i c a p pr oa ch t o
o c c l us i v e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n e l i m i n a t i n g u n d e s i r a b le f e e l p ro p-
e r t i e s
o f
p e t r o la t u m o r o t h er t r a d i t i o n a l o c c l u s i v e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Epo lene N-34 wax i s a non -e m u l s i f i a b l e po l ye th y l e ne wh i ch
p r o v i d e s a f i l m t h a t i s r e s i s t a n t t o wa sh -o f f . I t i s i n co rp -
o ra te d i n t o t h i s emu1 s i on w i t h Eastman
AQ
55 w a te r -d i s p e rs i b l e
p o l y e st e r wh ich a l s o c o n t r i b u t e s a p r o t e c t i v e
f i l m .
The wash-
o f f r e s i s ta n ce i s due t o t h e i n a b i l i t y o f Epolene N-34 t o be
e m u l s i f i e d by soap o r s u r f a c t a n t s . The d ua l f i l m - f o r m i n g a c t i o n
o f t h i s po l ym er com b i na t i on has been shown t o reduce m o i s tu re
l os s . I n v i t r o o c c l u s i v i t y d a t a i s a v a i l a b l e .
Phase
A :
D i s t i 1 e d w a te r
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l ,
USP
9 , s . t o 100
4.00
Phase 8 :
Polawax e m u l s i f y i n g wax, NF 3 . 0 0
A r l a c e l 165 g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e an d PEG-100 s t e a r a t e 3 .00
Myvero l
18-06
d i s t i l l e d mo no gly ce rid e
3.00
I s o p r op y l m yr i s t a t e
5.00
Robane squalane, NF
5.00
Epolene N-34 p o ly e th y le n e wax
1 . o o
Phase
C:
D i s t i l l e d w ate r
P ropy l ene g l yc o l
Eastman AQ 555 polymer
Phase D :
Eas tman v i tam in E TPGS (20 )
Phase E :
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i v e
10.00
3.00
1
o o
1
. o o
q . s .
9 , s .
Procedure:
1
Prepare Phase
C
b y a d d in g p r o p y le n e g l y c o l t o w a t e r a nd h e a t-
i n g t o 95C and then adding Eastman AQ 55s w i t h m i xi n g. A l l ow
t o c o o l t o 70C.
2 . Heat Phase A w i t h m ix in g t o 95C.
3 . Heat Phase B w i t h m i x i ng t o
105-llOC.
4. Cool Phase 8 t o
95C
and add t o Phase
A w i t h
p r o p e l l e r m ix i n g .
5 . C o n ti n ue m i x i n g and c o o l t o
70C,
a v o i d i n g a i r e nt ra pm en t.
6.
A t
70C, add Phase C.
7. C o n ti n ue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 5OC; then add Phase D and Phase
E .
8 . W i t h m i x i n g , f o r c e c o o l t o room t e m p e ra t u r e . P r o du c t w i l l
t h i c ke n and f o rm a cream a t 44C.
pH: 5.5
SOURCE: Eastman Chemical C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n X20491-089
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Creams
173
Night Cream, Non-Greasy
A . M i g l yo l 812
Im w i to r 900
M i g l yo l 840
Imwi to r 370
Im w i to r 375
C e t y l a l c o h o l
F l u i l a n
Emulan ODE 50
8 .
G l y c e r o l
Water
C . Perfume
P r e s e r v a t
i
e
1 8 . 0
6 .0
5 . 0
6 .0
1
. o
1 . o
1
. o
1 . 5
6 . 0
t o 1 00 .0
q s
q s
P r e p a r a t i o n
h e a te d t o t h e same t e m pe r a tu r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s
i n c o r p o r a t e d a t a p p r o x . 30C.
The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e m ixed and hea ted t o 80-85C. 8 . i s
O/W Cream, with Bacteriostat
A . S o f t i s a n 601
I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s
M i g l y o l 8 2 9
S o f t i g e n 7 0 1
Im w i to r 312
S o f t i s a n 6 4 9
S i l i c o n o i l 344 f l u i d
20 .0
8 . 0
5 . 0
5 .0
5 . 0
3 .0
1 . o
8 . Water t o
1 0 0 . 0
C .
Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
P r e p a r a t i o n :
a r e h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m pe r a tu r e a nd e m u l s i f i e d i n
A .
T h i s
i s f o l l ow e d by s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o l d and i n c o r p o r a t i n g t h e per fume.
SOURCE:
H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Co sm et ic s:
The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f
A .
ar e hea ted t o 75-8OC. Those o f B .
Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
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174 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Protective Face and Body Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A . Cocoa bu t t e r
P e t r o l a t u m and l a n o l i n a l c o h o l (Am erch ol
CAB)
S t e a r i c a c i d XXX
G l yc o l s t e a r a t e
E t h y l d i h y d ro x y p r o p y l
PABA
(Amerscreen P)
M e thy l g l uce th -20 ses qu i s tea ra te (Gl ucam ate SS 2 0 )
Propy l paraben
Water
Methy l g luce th -1 0 (G lucose E-10)
Quatern ium-6 (Merquat 100)
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
D i a z o l i d i n y l u r a ( Ge rm al l
1 1 )
Fragrance
C o l o r ( O p t i o n a l )
B .
A l o e V er ag el ( Ve ra g el L i q u i d 1 : l )
C . Methy l paraben
Percen t
5.00
3 .00
5 .00
8 .50
5 .00
2.00
0.10
50 .00
17.50
1 .oo
1 .50
1
. o o
0 . 1 0
0.30
q . s .
q . s .
P ro d uc t C h a r a c te r i a t i c s :
p r o t e c t i on.
Procedure :
m i x i n g . Le t coo l t o app rox i m a te l y 45-5OC. Add p re se rv a t i v e sys tem
and f r ag ra nc e. SPF
i
ap pr ox i mate1 y 8-1 0 .
N o n- ta ck y crea m w i t h good r u b - i n q u a l i t y a nd n i c e sun
Heat phase (A) and
( B )
se pa ra te l y t o 75C. Add
( B )
t o (A) w i t h
Eye Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A . Water
Ca rrag ee na n Gum
Pro pyl ene G1 y co l
S o r b i c A c i d
Glycamate SSE-20
Gl yce ry l M ono-S tea ra te
Soybean O i l
Stea re th -20
C e t y l A l c o h o l
S tea ra te -2
Glucate-SS
B .
P e t r o l a t u m
C . A l o e V er ag el L i q u i d 1 : l
Percen t
q . s .
0.1
5 . 0
0 .05
1 . 5
1 5 . 5
4 . 0
2 . 0
0 . 5
0 . 5
0.2
2.0
5 .0
Procedure:
Heat Phases t o 8OC. Add Phase B t o A a t BOC. L et mix u n t i l
b a t c h i s a t 55C. Add a l o e g e l
t o
b a t c h s l o w l y . . M ix and c o o l t o
below 40C.
SOURCE: D r . M ad is Lab o ra to r i es I n c . : Suggested F o rm u l a t i ons
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Creams 175
Protective Face and Body Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A . O i l phase
M in er a l o i l
Sweet Almond o i l
W h i t e P e t r o l a t u m
G l y c e ry l s t e a r a t e
White beeswax
T ocophe ro l (V i t am i n
E )
6 . A l oe v e r a g e l ( Ve ra g el L i q u i d )
Magnesi urn a lu mi num s i 1i a t e (Veegum F)
De ion i zed water
O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA (Esca l o l 507 )
D i a z o l i d i n y l u r ea ( Ge rm al l
1 1 )
Methyl Paraben
F ra g ra n ce , c o l o r a nd p r e s e r v a t i v e
Percen t
13 .50
3 .00
13.50
5.50
3 .50
3 .50
2.00
45.00
0.10
10.00
3.00
0 .35
0 .15
9 . s .
P ro du ct C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s :
a l l o w i n g t a n n in g
w i t h
s o m e p r o t e c t i o n .
Procedure:
Decrease 0 . 1 (%w/w) Veegum i n 10 (%w/w) wa t e r a t b o i l i n g
t em pe r at ur e w i t h m i x i n g , t h e n l e t c o o l t o a p p r o x im a t e l y 70C. and
add r e s t o f B ( e xc e p t f o r f r a g r a n c e ) a nd m a i n t a i n t e m p e ra t ur e .
Heat ( A ) t o 70-75C. , t he n add
(E)
t o
( A )
w i t h m ix i ng . L e t co o l
t o 45C. Then add f r a g r a n c e , l e t c o o l f u r t h e r a nd p ac ka ge .
T h i s i s a good r ub - i n c ream w i t h a SPF 6 ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y ) ,
Moistu r izing Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A . M i n e r al o i l a nd l a n o l i n o i l (Amerchol L-101)
Lane t h-5
I s o p r op y l l a n o l a t e
S t e a r i c a c i d X X X
G l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e
M in er a l o i l
6 . A lo e v e r a g e l ( Ve ra ge l L i q u i d 1 : l )
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
T r i et ha no l ami ne
P ro py le ne g l y c o l (a nd) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a ( an d)
methy l parabe n (and) pr op y l paraben (Germaben
11)
Procedure:
Hea t (A ) and (6 ) se pa ra te l y t o 75 deg rees C . M i x
( A )
u n i f o rm . Add ( A) t o ( 6 ) w i t h c o n st a nt s t i r r i n g and c o o l
room
t em pera tu re .
SOURCE:
D r .
M e d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s
Inc . :
Suggested Formulat
Pe rcen t
1
. o o
1
.oo
1 - 0 0
3.00
2 - 0 0
8.00
78.00
4.50
0.50
1.00
u n t i 1
t o
ons
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176 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Rejuvenating Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A )
Cremophor A-6
Cremophor A-25
C u t i n a
GMS
Lane t t e -0
S t e a r i c A c i d
P a r a f f i n o i l
C e t i o l
SN
Vase1
i
e w h i t e
Abi 1-350
B) Wate r dem i ne ra l i zed
I m i dazo l
i
i n y l u r e a
Phenoni p
G l yce r
G l y c o l i c a c i d
M a l i c a c i d
Pen tav i
t i
n
Immucel l
C) Fragrance/Chiara 0/238927
% w / w
2,50
2,50
4,00
3,00
1 , o o
10,00
5,00
3,00
0,40
55 60
0,20
0,50
3,00
2,00
1
, o o
3,00
3,00
0,30
Procedure :
Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p hase A ) t o 70C.
I n c o r p or a t e i t e m ' s 11-15 i n w at er ( l o ) , a d j u s t t h e pH t o 4 . 5 .
Heat phase
B)
t o 7 5 C .
Under s t i r r i n g a dd phase B ) t o phase A), co o l t o 50C, homogen-
Then add phase C ) and s t i r c o l d .
T hen i nco rpo ra te i t em s 16 + 17.
i z e a nd c o o l t o 30C.
A p p l i c a t i o n
No. A
032.0/11.94
W/O Night Repair Cream
cold procedure
I n a r e d i e n t s :
1 A) P i o n i e r KWH-soft
2 B ) Wate r dem i ne ra l i zed
3
G1 y c e r
4 Magnes iumsul fa t -7H20
5 Revi t a l
6 Hyasol
7 Phenoni p
9
C )
Fragr ance: 0 /232511 B l ac k Dragon I 1
8
Euxy l
K- 200
% w / w
30,00
53,70
5100
0,50
5,00
5,00
0,30
0,20
0,30
Procedure:
D i s s o l v e i t e m s 3-8 i n wa te r ( 2 ) .
Under v e r y go od s t i r r i n g a dd p ha se B ) s l o w l y t o phase
A )
F i na l 1 y
i
co rpo ra te phase C ) .
A p p l i c a t i o n
No. B
006.0 /04 .93
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested A p p l i c a t i o n s
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Creams
177
1 . M i n e r a l
O i 1
2. Coco B u t te r
3 . C e t e a r v l A l c o h o l & Ceteareth 20
4 .
Em ul s i fy in g wax N.F.
5 . S t e a r i c A ci d
6. G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e
7 . G l y c e r i n
E . Propy l ene G l yco l
9 .
Acetamide
MEA
100%
10 .T r i e thano l am i ne
11 .Mackpro NSP ( O l e y l / P a l m i t y
Silk Protein Skin Cream
Wei a h t ,%
1 0 . 0
4 . 0
6 . 0
1 . o
2 .8
2.0
2 .0
0 . 5
0 .2
2 . 0
d o p r o p y l / S i l k h y d r o x y -Palmi to le am
pr op y l Dimonium Ch lo r i de )
12 ,Macks ta t
DM
(DMDM Hydantoin)
13 .F ragrance
14.Deion ized Water
q s
qs
qs
Procedure:
1 . M e l t 1 ,2 ,3 ,4 ,5 ,6 ,7 ,8 ,9 , i n a s e p a r a te c o n t a i n e r t o 75
degrees
C .
2 . I n t h e m i x in g t a nk h e at t h e w at er t o 78 d eg re es C . add 10,ll.
3 . S t a r t m i x i n g and add h o t m i x t u r e o f 1 t h r u 9 s lo w l y w i t h
good a g i t a t i o n , m ix f o r 20 m in ute s th e n s t a r t c o o l i n g .
4 . W h i l e m i x i n g ad d a t
50
degrees C . i t e m s 12 then 13 and
m ix u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g i s homogeneous.
5. Check pH and adjust
i f
needed w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e or a c i d
s o l u t i o n t o 5 .4 -6 .5 .
SOURCE :
M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l Care
Formulary
Moistur iz ing Cream w/Tr i toso l
A b l e n d
o f
Polawax and In c ro qu at Behenyl TMS pr ov id e t h i s
cream w i t h e x c e l l e n t s t a b i l i t y and m i l dn e ss . The i n c o r p o r a t i o n
o f T r i t i s o l a l l ow s t h e s k i n t o r e t a i n mo is tu re , and a c t s t o
c o n d i t i o n t h e s k i n .
I n g r e d i e n t s :
P a r t
A :
Polawax ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF)
In cr oq ua t Beheny l TMS (Behent r imonium Me th os ul fa te
M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu)
P a r t
8 :
Deion ized Water
P a r t C :
T r i t i s o l ( S o l u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n )
P r op y le n e Q l y c o l ( a n d) D i a z o l i d i n y l U re a ( an d) M e t h y l
Paraben (and) Propyl Paraben*
( an d) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l )
-
0.00
3.00
5.00
0.00
1
. o o
1 . o o
Procedure :
Com b i ne i ng red i en t s o f P a r t
A
w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 70C.
Hea t Pa r t 0 t o 70C. Add Pa r t
0
t o P a r t A w i t h g ood m i x i n g a nd
co o l t o 45C. Add Pa r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c oo l t o d e s i r ed fill
t em pera tu re .
pH:
5 . 0 + - 0 . 5
V i s c o s i t y : 11
O O O + - 1 0 %
*Germaben I 1
N . A . T . C .
Approved
SOURCE:
Croda, I n c . : Formula SC-229
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178 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-A
M a t e r i a l s :
P a r t A :
Dei oni zed Water
Rheol a t e 5000
Pr op yle ne G1 yc o l
P a r t B :
Pana l ene
S i l i c o n e
7207
Promulgen D
Ceraphy l
494
P a r t C :
AMP
P a r t 0 :
Euxyl K-400
F in s o lv TN
Esca l o l 507
Approx im a te V i sc os i t y , cps : 15 ,000
Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-B
M a t e r i a l s :
P a r t
A :
Dei on i zed Water
Rheol a t e 5000
P r o p y le n e G l y c o l
P a r t
B:
S i
1
i
one 7207
Ceraphy l
494
S t e a r i c A c i d
C e t y l A l c o h o l
Dow
200
F l u i d
P a r t
C :
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
P a r t D :
F i n s o l v TN
Euxyl K-400
Approx imate , V iscos i t y , cps : 45 ,000
%&y
79.66
0 . 3
0 . 5
8 . 0
1 . o
1 . o
2 .0
0 .24
0 . 3
2 . 0
5 .0
% Y J
83.55
0 . 3
2 . 5
2 . 0
1
. o
1 .75
1 .o
5 . 0
0 . 6
0 .3
2.0
M a n uf a ct u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . C ombine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A by s lo w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e
2 .
Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t B, t he n he at t o 78C.
3 . Add Par t 6 t o P ar t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix f o r 10 m in ut es ,
4.
Cool t o
40C
b e f o r e a d d in g P a r t D . Package a t Room Tem per atu re.
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s TS-312
p ol ym er t o t h e wa te r, m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t es , t h e n ad d i n g t h e
p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . He at t o 80C.
then add Pa r t C .
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Creams 179
Silky-Smoo th Lotion/Cream-C
M a t e r i a l s : Jy&
P a r t A :
Dei oni zed Water 78.16
Rheol a t e 5000 0 . 3
Propy lene G1 yc o l 2 . 5
P a r t B :
Panal ene
8 . 0
S i
1
i one 7207 1 . o
Promulgen D 0 . 5
Ceraphyl 494 2 . 0
P a r t C :
AMP 0.24
P a r t D :
Eux yl K-400 0 .3
F i n s o l v
TN
2 . 0
Esc a l o l 507 5 .0
M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A by s lo w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e
Approx im a te V i sc os i t y , cps : 24,500
p ol ym er t o t h e w at e r, m i x i n g f o r 20 m in u te s , t h e n a dd in g t h e
p r o py l en e g l y c o l . He at t o 80C.
t h e n a dd P a r t C .
2 .
Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t
B,
t h e n h e a t t o 78C.
3. Add Par t 6 t o P ar t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix f o r 10 m in ut es ,
4. Coo l t o 40C be fo re add ing Pa r t
D .
Package A t Room Temperature.
Formula TS-312
Silky Smooth Cream Base
I n a r e d i e n t :
%w/w
P a r t
A :
Deion ized Water 83 .55
Rheo la te 5000 0 . 3
Propy lene G1 yc o l 2 .5
P a r t
B:
S i 1 co ne 7207 2.0
Cer aph yl 494 1 . o
S t e a r i c A c i d 1 .7 5
C e t y l A 1 coho1 1
. o
Dow 200 F l u i d
5 . 0
P a r t C:
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 6
P a r t D :
Euxyl K-400
0 .3
Fi ns o l v TN 2 . 0
M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A by s l o w ly s i f t i n g i n t h e
p olym er t o t h e w at er , m i x in g f o r
20
m i nu t es , t h e n a dd i ng t h e
p r op y le n e g l y c o l . Heat t o
80C.
2 .
Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t
8 ,
t h e n h e a t t o 78C.
3 .
Add Par t B t o P ar t
A
w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix f o r 10 m in ute s,
t h e n a dd P a r t
C .
4 .
Coo l t o 40C be fo re add i ng Pa r t
D .
Package a t Room Temp-
e r a t u r e .
Formula TS-331
SOURCE: Rheox ,
I n c . : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s
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18 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Cream
A . Squalane
Beeswax
Amiter LG-OD
Cetyl Octanoate (Emalex CC-168)*
Hydrogenated O i 1 (Emal ex S . T . G - R ) *
Beheny l A lcoho l
P ropy l eneg l yco l M onos tea ra te
G l y c e r y l M on os te ar at e, S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g
D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e ( 3 0 0 c . s . )
B u t y l paraben
Amihope
L L
G1 y c e r i
n
H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 1 % a q. s o l n . )
Methy lparaben
Water
*Nihon Emuls ion
C o .
(Emalex GMS-7CAE)*
B . CAE
Procedure:
1 . M i x ( A ) a t
2 . M i x (B ) a t
3. Add ( A ) t o
4 . M ix them w
N o t e : T h i s
sk
8 0 C .
8 0 C .
( 6 ) .
t h a homomixe r, and t he n co o l s l o w l y t o 30C
n
c ream sp reads we l l .
Wt%
4 . 0
1
. o
2 . 0
3 . 0
4 . 0
1 . 5
1
. o
5 . 0
0 . 4
0 . 1
1
. o
0 . 5
5 . 0
1 0 . 0
0 . 2
58 .3
Skin Cream
A . L i q u i d P e tr o la t um
Cetano l
Pro py l ene G1 yc o l Monostearate
G l y c e r y l M o n o st ea ra te , S e l f Ernulsi f y i ng (HLB
5 )
POE
(10) Monos teara te
POE
( 3 0 )
Monostearate
Buty l Paraben
Amihope LL
B . 1 , 3 - B u t y l e n e G l y c o l
Acy lg lu tamate HS-11
Methy lparaben
Water
(Em alex GMS-45RT; Ni ho n Emu ls io n Co. )
Wt%
1 7 . 0
3 . 0
1 . o
3 . 0
2 . 0
1
. o
0 . 1
5 . 0
5 . 0
0 . 3
0 . 2
6 2 . 4
Procedure:
1 . M i x (A) a t 80C. 2 . M i x ( € 3 ) a t
8 0 C .
3 . Add ( B) t o (A) 4. Mi x them w i t h a homomixer.
5 . Coo l t hem s l ow l y t o 30C.
N ot e: T h i s s k i n cream has l o w f r i c t i o n t o u ch a f t e r u se .
SOURCE:
A j i nom o to
U S A ,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Creams 181
Skin Cream with CAE and Amihope
In q r e d i e n t s
: W B
Phase A :
Squa l ane 4 . 0
Beeswax 1 . o
Amiter LG-OD 2 . 0
C e ty l Octan oate* (Emalex CC-168) 3. 0
Hydrogenated O i l * (Emalex S.T.G.-R) 4 . 0
Behenyl A l coho l 1 . 5
S t e a r i c A c id 3 . 0
Propy l ene G l yc o l M onos tea ra te
1 . o
Gl yc er y l Monos teara te S e l f Em u ls i f y i ng (Emalex GMS-7
C A E ) *
5 .0
M e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (300 c . s . ) 0 . 4
B u t y l paraben 0.1
Amihope LL 1 . o
Phase 8:
CAE
0 . 5
G1 y c e r i n 5 . 0
H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (1% Aq. So ln . ) 10 .0
Methy lparaben 0 .2
Water 58.3
M anu fac tu r i ng P rocedu re :
Mix Phase A and he at t o 80C. Mix Phase
B
and h e a t t o 8OC.
Add Phase A t o Phase B and homogenize . Coo l s l o w l y t o 3 0 C .
* N i hon Emu1 s i on Co.
,
L t d . , Japan
Form ul a No. LC-7
Cleansing Cream
( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( 70)
P e t r o l a t u m
Beeswax
Lanol
i
A1 coho1
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 5 ) G l y c er y l I s o s t e a r a t e
P o l y o xy e t h y le n e ( 5 ) S t e a r y l E t h e r
P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c o l
( 5 0 0 )
D i s t e a r a t e
So rb i t an Mono1 au ra te
S o r b i t a n Monool e a t e
A1 umi num Mo no st ear a te
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l
Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
(W) Aj idew
N - 5 0
Procedure:
1 . Suspend a1 umi num mon ost ear ate t o 1 u i d p a r a f f i n
2 . Add other
(0 )
i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e s us pe ns io n.
3 .
Heat
(0 )
t o 95C t o d i s s o l v e .
4 .
Heat
( W )
t o 85C.
5. Add (W) t o
(0 )
s lo w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g .
6 . Coo l t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE:
Aj inornoto USA, I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
pH: 5.1
t %
21 . o
5 . 0
10 .0
1 . 7
4 . 0
2 . 5
1 . 6
0 . 2
0 . 4
2 . 0
3 . 0
3 .0
4 5 . 6
q . s .
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182 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Care Cream
T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r t s good s k i n f e e l and has a h i g h q u a l i t y
appearance, t ho ug h t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e
a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s wh ich a r e h i g h l y
e f f e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n system f o r a l l s k i n t yp e s . The f o r m u la
a l s o w i l l h e l p re d uc e t r a n s e pi d e r m a l w a t e r l o s s .
O i l Phase:
Ce ty l s t e a r y l A1 coho1 1618 (P&G)
N F Wh ite Beeswax (K o s te r Keunen)
I so p r op y l Pa l m i t a te (Un ichema)
L i g h t M i ne r a l O i l (W i t co )
P ro p yl en e G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x )
S t ea r i c Ac i d (Un ichema)
Coconut O i l (CocoChem)
Propy l Paraben (Su t ton)
Water Phase:
Water ( D i s t i l l e d )
Glycer ine (UniChema)
Carboxymethy l C e l l u l o s e (CMC, Her cu l es)
Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich)
Sodi um B or at e (Bo rax )
T r ie thano lam ine (Dow)
Methy l Paraben (Su t ton)
4.50%
2.50%
3 . 0 0 %
5.00%
1.50%
0.50%
1.25%
0.20%
74.25%
5.50%
0 30%
0 . 6 0 %
0.40%
0
30%
0.20%
Procedure :
Add t o t h e w at er phase u nd er a g i t a t i o n , i n or d e r ;
CMC
u n t i l
e v e r y t h i n g i s d i s s o l v e d t h e n m e th y l p a ra be n w h i l e m i x i n g . Then
add carbo po l , m ix t i l l homogeneous making su re t h e r e a r e no
agg lo mera t io ns . Add th e remainder o f t h e wate r phase components,
m i x and hea t t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase com ponents, hea t t i l l
75C and m ix . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l p ha se t o t h e w a te r p ha se u n de r
a g i t a t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a t e mp e ra tu re o f 75C. When t h e o i l phase
i s added, c o o l and p o ur i n t o c o n t a i n e r .
A da p ti on o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u ct :
ene g l y c o l d i o c t a n a t e by 0.5% and t h e a d d i t i o n
o f
2 .5% Esca l o l
507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream w i l l t a k e on an SPF o f
6-8.
The produc t
h as t h e same a pp ea ra nc e, s k i n f e e l a nd s t a b i l i t y . F r ag r a nc e s c an
a l s o be added w i t ho u t a f f e c t i n g i t s t e x t u r e .
SOURCE:
Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
By r e d u c in g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r a l o i l b y 2.0%, p r o p y l -
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Creams 183
Soft
Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
Ar lamol
I S M L
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
S i l i c o n e o i l (350 c s )
Ar lamol E
B r i j 700
B r i j
72
B Wate r , de i on i zed
Carbopol 934
C Sodium hydrox ide (10 aqueous)
D P r e s e r v a t i v e
E *Perfume
* q .s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w
4 .00
1
. o o
0 .50
1 . o o
2.25
2 . 2 5
8 8 . 1 0
0 . 4 0
0 . 4 0
0.10
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Add
( C ) .
Add ( D ) be lo w 50C. Add
( E )
a t 35C and add
w a t e r t o c ompensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Heat (A ) t o 70C and (B ) t o 72C. Add (B ) t o (A ) w i t h modera te
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A Jo j oba O i l
B r i j
72
B r i j
7 0 0
S t e a r y l a1 coho1
B Water , de i on i zed
C
D o w i c i l 200
Jojoba
Oil
Cream
1 0 .0 0
2 .70
1 . 3 0
4 .00
81 - 9 0
0 . 1 0
D
*Perfume
* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add C ) a t a bou t 50C and ( D ) a t a b o u t
45C. Add wate r a t 35C t o compensate f o r loss due t o evapora-
t i on . Package .
Formula PC-7158
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat (A ) t o 60C and (B ) t o 65C. Add (B ) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p-
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184 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Vanishing Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A r lamo l
I S M L
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
S i l i c o n e o i l (350 c s)
Ar lamo l E
B r i j 700
B r i j 72
Water , de i on i zed
Sorbo
Carbopol 934
Sod ium hydrox ide (10 aqueous)
Germal l
I 1
Herba l F ragrance
SL
79-1224, PFW
%w/w
10.00
4 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
3 . 0 0
2 .00
3 . 0 0
72.90
4 . 0 0
0 . 2 0
0 . 2 0
0 . 1 0
0 . 1 0
Procedure :
a g i t a t i o n . Add (C ) . Add (D) be low 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add
w a te r t o c ompensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A) w i t h m od e ra te
Vanishing Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A Ar lamol
I S M L
S t e a r y l a l c o h ol
S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .
Ar lamo l E
B r i j 721
B r i j
72
B Water
S or bo , 70% S o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i on
Carbopol 934
C NaOH
(10
aqueous)
D D o w i c i l 200 p r e s e r v a t i v e
*Perfume
* q. s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
nw w
1 0 . 0 0
4.00
0.50
3 . 0 0
2.65
2 . 3 5
73.00
4 .00
0 . 2 0
0 . 2 0
0 . 1 0
Procedure:
72C and add ( B) t o ( A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly add C )
and i nc rea se speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed . Add (D) and
r e p l a c e w a te r l o s t b y e v a p or a t i o n.
SOURCE:
I C 1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r a nd h e a t ( B) t o 70C. H eat ( A) t o
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Creams
185
Vanishing Cream
Phase 1:
Rosswax 63-041 2
Rosswax 573
Amerlate P
Emerest 2314
Emerest 2316
G l yce ry l M onos tea ra te S E
Phase 2 :
Water
Emery 916 Pure G ly c e r in e
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i e
Pa r t s bv We igh t
8 . 0
12.0
1
. o
1
. o
1
. o
0 . 5
99.0
8 . 0
1 . 2
q . s .
q . s .
Procedure:
t o te m pe r at ur e o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e t em p er a tu r e i s
reached add phase 1 t o 2 w i t h c on t i nu ed a g i t a t i o n c o o l i n g t o
120F t o package. F ragra nce may be added t o t h e p rod uc t as
i t
i s c o o l i n g .
I n s e p a r a t e ste am j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s h e a t b o t h ph as e 1 and 2
Ross Cold Cream Formulation with Jojoba Oil
P a r t
A :
Ross Beeswax S u b s t i t u t e 628/5
Ross F u l l y Ref ine d P a r a f f i n Wax 150 /160
M i n e r a l O i l 80/90
Gl yce ro l M onos tea ra te S . E .
Ross Jojoba O i l
P a r t B:
Borax
Water
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i v e
%
11
o
2 .0
45 .5
0 . 3
2 . 0
0 . 8
38 .4
q . s .
9 , s .
Procedure:
Hea t Pa r t A t o 170F and a g i t a t e . H ea t P a r t B t o 170F and
a g i t a t e . Co ol t o 160F and add P a r t A t o P a rt 0 a t 160F w i t h
good a g i t a t i o n . Cool s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n and p ou r a t 11OF.
SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Sugges ted For mu la t i on s
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86 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O
Cream with Eldew
I n g r ed i en t s /T r ad e Name: % b v w e i g h t
P a r t A :
D i - ( C h o l e s t e r y l , b e he n yl , o c t y l d o d e c y l )
N -Lau roy l -L -g l u tam i c a c i d es te r /E l dew CL-301 2 . 0
C e t e a r y l O c ta n oa te 8 . 0
C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate 5 . 0
Phenoxyethanol 0 .60
T ocophe ry l Ace ta t e 0 .05
P a r t 8 :
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( an d ) C e t y l D im e th i cone
Ce ty l D i me th icone 2 .00
P a r t C :
De io n iz ed Water 68.55
Sodium Ch l o r i de 0 .80
G l y c e r i n ( 99 . 5% ) 5 . 0 0
P a r t i a l l y Deac e ty l a te d C h i t i n (1 .O% ) /M ari ne Dew PC-100
2 .00
P a r t D :
B u t y l e n e G l y c o l 0 . 80
Procedure:
A .
P re -m e lt p a r t
D
b y h e a t i n g t o 50 d e gr ee s C . Add t o p a r t
C .
S l o w l y add p a r t
C
and
D
m i x t u r e t o p a r t s A and
B
w i t h h i g h s he ar
m i x i ng .
Copo lyo l (and) Hexy l Lau ra te 5 .00
Methy lparaben 0 . 2 0
P re -m e lt p a r t A a t 50 deg rees Cen t i g rade . Add p a r t B t o p a r t
Appearance: Whi te, smooth, shiny l o t i o n pH: 6 . 0- 6 .5
V i scos i t y : 20 ,000 -20 ,000 ( R V T #6 lOrpm
25 degrees
C )
Cleansing Cream
L i q u i d P a r a f f i n
( 70)
P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)
Squa l ane
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
C e t y l A l c o h o l
N i k k o l WCB
S o r b i t a n M o no st ea r at e
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 1 5 ) C e t y l E t h e r
A j idew T-50
Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure:
1 . Heat 0) nd W ) t o 80C.
2. Add (W) t o ( 0 ) s lo w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g .
3 . C ool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE: Ajinomoto
USA,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
pH: 5 .7
t %
35.0
10.0
2 . 0
3 . 0
1
. o10 .0
2 . 4
2 . 6
3 . 0
31 . O
0 . s .
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Creams
187
90%
Water Cream
Water
Carbomer 934
Protox T-25
Rosswax 63-041 2
Rosswax 1824
GMS SE
Coconut O i l #76
Jo j oba O i l
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
Germaben
I I E
Fragrance GK-21
Pa r t s by Wei ah t
450. 0Gr
.
2.OGr.
1
. Q G r .
4.OGr.
16.OGr.
4.OGr.
16.OGr.
4.OGr.
4.OGr.
6.OGr.
q.s.
Procedure:
D i s p e r se t h e Carbomer 9 34 i n t h e w a t e r , on a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l
v e s s e l . I n a se p a ra t e v e ss el m e l t t h e O i l Phase. When t h e O i l
Phase i s m e l t ed add i t t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . N ex t
add t h e f ra g r an c e , t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and l a s t add t h e T r i e t h a n o l -
amine w i t h i n cr e a se d a g i t a t i o n .
Soft & Si lky Vanishing Cream
P a r t ( A ) :
Rosswax 63-0412
Rosswax 573
Ross Lo t i on
O i l
2745
GMS-SE
P a r t ( B ) :
Water
Pro py le ne G1 yc o l
T r i et ha no l ami ne
Germaben
I 1
P a r t
C ) :
F rag rance
Par t s bv We i gh t
8 . 0
10.0
8.0
0 . 5
97.0
8 . 0
2 . 0
1 . 2
q . s .
Procedure:
k e t t l e s un de r a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y h e at ed add P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t
( B )
unde r ag i t a t i o n . Coo l t o 130F, F rag rance and package .
SOURCE: Frank
8 .
R o s s C o . , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
H e a t P a r t
( A )
and Par t
( B )
t o 170F i n s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d
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Sect ion
VI
Hair Care Products
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Hair Care Products 189
A r c t i c M i s t S p r a y G e l
T h i s wa te r wh i t e , c l e a r , sp ra ya b le g e l u ses D ia fo rm e r 2-301
t o p r o v i d e e x c e l l e n t h o ld , c l e a r f i l m s , and
no
f l a k i n g . I t
e x h i b i t s good v i s c o s i t y c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . S an do xy la te SX-424 i s
used a s a f r a g r a n c e s o l u b i l i z e r .
I n g e di n t
s ~ :
W
De ion ize d Water 91 .80
Carbopol 980 0. 30
NaOH 10% 0 . 4 0
D i afo rm er 2-301 6.95
G l y c e r i n 0 . 1 0
D i sod i urn EDTA 0 . 0 5
Sand oxyl ate SX-424 0. 25
Frag rance
0 . 0 5
P r e s e r v a t i v e
0 . 1 0
Procedure :
homogeneous. Add NaOH 10% t o n e u t r a l i z e t h e C arbopol 980. Mix
we l l . Ad d D ia fo rm e r
2-301
and G l y c e r i n one a t a t i m e w i t h
m i x i ng. Add D i s od i um EDTA. P r es o l u b i 1 i e f r a g r a n c e i Sandoxy-
l a t e SX-424 and add t o ba t ch . M ix we l l . Ad ju s t pH as needed
w i t h NaOH 10%.
P r o p e r t i e s :
pH: 6 .5
V is c o s i t y : 12 ,000 -14,000 cps .
App ea ra nce: Water wh i t e , c l e a r g e l
Add C ar bo po l 980 t o w at er w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n and m ix u n t i l
F ormu l a t i n CHF-20
Super Hard Hold Hair Spray
D i a ho l d A-503 i s used t o c r e a t e t h i s s uper h a r d h o l d h a i r
sp ra y t h a t m ee ts t h e 80% VOC r e q u i re m e n ts . I t s a b i l i t y t o f o r m
ha rd , c r y s t a l c l e a r f i l m s r e s u l t i n a h a i r s pr ay t h a t has good
g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t h o l d on t h e h a i r . D i a h ol d A-503 i s a l s o
e a s i l y removed f ro m t h e h a i r b y sham po oing .
I n a r e d i e n t s : yw
D i
ahold A-503
1 7 . 5 0
Dei o n i zed Water 12.7 0
Dow Corning 190 0 . 1 0
SD 40 Alcoho l 69 .50
Lauramide DEA 0 . 1 0
Frag rance OS
Procedure :
Add D ia ho ld A-503
t o
a l co h o l w i t h m i x i n g . Add wa te r an d m i x
w e l l . Add r e ma i ni n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .
P r o p e r t i s :
Appearance: Pale Ye1
1
ow L i q u i d
pH: 8.2-8.6
Formulat ion CHF-18
SOURCE: Sandoz Ch em ica ls Co rp .: Suggest ed Fo r m ul a ti o ns
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Hair Care Products
191
Birch Hair Lotion
Eth a n o l 96%
Bi r c h (wa t e r ) Spec i a1
So f t i g e n 7 6 7
M a r l a z i n KC 3 0 / 5 0
A1 1 a n t o i n
V i t a m i n F
Pant heno l
Water
5 0 . 0
5 . 0
5 . 0
0 . 5
0 . 2
0 . 2
0 . 2
t o
1 0 0 . 0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s te d t o 5 .5 - 6 .5 .
The components a r e m ixed to g e th e r i n sequence a nd s t i r r e d
Invigorat ing Hair Lot ion
I so p ro p a n o l
So f t i g e n 7 6 7
Mar lowet R 40/K
Menthol
Camphor
S t i n g i n g N e t t l e S pe ci a l
Perfume
Water
W S
4 5 . 0
3.0
1
. o
0 . 2
0 . 0 5
1 . o
q s
t o 100 .0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d ju s te d t o 5 . 5- 6. 5.
The components a re m ixed to ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Hair Condit ioner
A . M a r l a z i n K C 30/50
C e t y l a l c o h o l
Mar lamid M
1218
C e l l o s i z e
QP
100 MH
Water
6 . Perfume
Co lo u r
P r e s e r v a t i e
P r e p a r a t on
:
The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . ar e added to ge th e r i n sequence and
s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e
added t o A . a t a p pr o x. 3 0 C . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 .
SOURCE:
Huls
A mer i ca I n c . : F o r m u l at i o n s f o r Cosmet ics : Formu las
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192 Cosmetic and
Toiletry
Formulations
Brushing Gel
A .
B .
C .
Amihope
LL
POE
( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n
POE (2 0) S o r b i t a n
POE (25 ) Gl y c e r y l
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l
Grape Seed O i l
Mono1 a u r a t e
Monosteara te
Wt
0 . 5
0 . 5
0 . 5
Monopyrog lu tamate Mono isosteara te 1 . o
2 . 0
0 . 5
Ca rbo xy v in y l Po lymer (Carbopol 9 4 0 ) ( 1
O w t
s o l u t i o n ) 5 0. 0
Dei on i zed Water ba l anc e
P r e s e r v a t i v e s 0 . 2
10% w t . NaOH S o l u t i o n 2.0
Procedure :
1 . Weigh e ach i n g r e d i e n t ( A ) i n g l a s s v e s s el and m ix .
2 . Add ( 8 ) t o t h e f or m er m i x t u r e and h e a t t o 70-8OC w i t h
3 . A f t e r d i s so l u t i o n , co o l down t o room te m p e ra tu re . Then add
s t i r r i ng .
(C) t o t h e m ixed s o l u t i o n a nd i t t u r n s t o g e l s t a t e .
Note:
combing and le ad s t o smooth combing.
T h i s b r u s h i n g g e l r ed uc es an e l e c t o s t a t i c c ha rg e pr od uc ed by
Hair Brushing Lotion
Amihope LL
POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o la u r at e ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 )
Water
E th a n o l
Procedure :
M ix a l l componen ts a t room tempera tu re .
Wt
1
. o
1
. o
50.0
48.0
Note:
smoothness f o r t h e h a i r .
c a t i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t .
Usage:
SOURCE:
A j i n o m o to USA, I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u la t i o n s
T h i s h a i r b r us h in g l o t i o n has good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and
Amihope L i a c t s a s h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g agent i n s t e a d o f t h e
Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h in g .
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Hair
Care
Products 193
Brushing Lotion
Wt
A . AmihoDe LL
0 . 5
PO€
( 2 0 ) So rb i t a n M o n o la u ra te 1 . 5
POE
(25 ) G ly ce ry l Monopyrog lu tamate Mono isos tea ra te
1
. o
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l 2 .0
€ 3 S t e a r y l A l c oh o l 0 . 5
Carboxyv iny l Po lymer (Carbopo l 941
)
1 5 . 0
Deio n ize d Water ba la nce
P r e s e r v a ti es 0 . 2
(0 .5 wt% so lu t i o n ; n e u t r a l i z e d b y NaOH)
C . Prodew
100
Ethano l
0 .2
5 .0
Procedure :
1 . Weigh ea ch i n g re d i e n t (A) i n g l a ss ve sse l a n d m i x .
2 . Add ( B ) t o t h e fo r m e r m i x t u r e a nd h e a t t o 70 8OC w i t h
3 .
Af te r d i s s o l u t i o n , co o l down t o 50C. Then ad d ( C ) t o t h e
4 . W i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l down t o room t e m p er a t u re .
Note :
by combing and le ad s t o a smooth combing.
s t i r r ing.
m i
xed s o l u t i on.
T h i s b r u s h i n g l o t i o n re du ce s an e l e c t r o s t a t i c c h ar g e p ro du ce d
Hair Rinse
A . Cetano l
A m i t e r LGOD-2
Wt
3 . 0
5 .0
G l y c e r y l M o no s te a ra t e, S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (HLB 11 ) 2 . 0
Amihope LL
3 . 0
0. 1 , 3 - B u t y l e n e g l y c o l
Stearyltrimethylammonium Ch o r i d e
Methy lpa raben
Water
Procedure :
1 . D i s s o l v e (A) a t 8 O C .
2 . Di ss o l ve (B) a t 8OC.
3 .
Add ( 8 ) t o
( A ) .
4. M i x t h e m w i t h a homomixer, and co ol t o 30C.
Note:
SOURCE: A j i n o m o to
USA,
I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t io ns
T h is creamy h a i r r i n s e has l i g h t f i n i s h i n g t ou ch .
5 .0
3 .0
0 . 2
t h e r e s t
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94
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear Condit ioner
C o n d i t i o n i n g p l u s f i l m c l a r i t y m ax imizes t h e n a t u r a l b eau ty
o f t h e h a i r .
I n g r e d i e n t s :
1 . H y d r ox y e t hy l C e l l u l o s e ( N a t r o s o l
250 HHR)
2 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water
3 . Pro p y le n e G l yco l
4 . EDTA
5. Ammonyx KP (O le al ko ni um C h l o r i d e )
6 , Po ly qu ta 400 (Po lyqua te rn ium-10 )
7. Lane to 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n )
8 . R i t a p a n DL (d l -Pa n th e n o l )
9 . R i t a b a t e 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20 )
10.Fragrance #189-724
11.Kathon CG
0 .80
84 .32
5 .00
0 . 1 0
6 .00
1 . o o
0 . 7 5
1
. o o
0 . 8 0
0 . 2 0
0 . 0 3
F u n c t i o n
V i s c o s i t y
Humectant
C1 a r i y
C o n d i t i o n i n g
Combing
C o n d i t i o n i n g
Body
C l a r i t y
Odor
P r e s e r v a t i v e
---- - --- -
Compounding Procedure:
I n 60%
o f
t h e wa te r d i s s o l v e i t e m 1 . Add i t e m 3 , m ix u n t i l
c l e a r . Add i t e m 4 and m i x . I n a s e pa r a t e b ea ke r d i s p e r s e i t e m
6 i n r e m a in i n g w a t e r . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s 5,7 and 8 i n
o r de r . Combine and add i t em 9 . Add pe r fume and p r es e r va t i ve .
R e f . No. 118-125
Light Hair Condit ioner
A c o n d i t i o n e r d e si g ne d f o r n or ma l / o i 1y ha i r t o maxi m i ze
c o m b a b i l i t y and m a n a g e a b i l i t y . H e lp s keep h a i r c l e a n e r l o n g e r
I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n ct i o n
1 . R i t a C A ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 3 .5 0 E m u l s i f i e r , T h i c k e n e r
2 . R ita -CTAC (Ce t r imon ium Ch lo r i de ) 2 . 0 0 C o n d i t i o n e r
3 . Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 2 . 0 0 S i l k y F e e l ,
4 . R i t a p r o 200 ( R . I . T . A . B le nd ) 2 .0 0 E m u l s i f i e r
5 . C i t r i c Ac i d
@
1 0 0 0 .05 pH Ad jus te r
6 . G l y da n t 0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e
7 . D i s t i l l e d /D e i o n i z e d Water go 25
Compounding Procedure:
CTAC and R i t a p r o 2 0 0 a nd h e a t t o 70C. S lo w l y ad d p re -mi x t o
wa te r phase and a g i t a t e . Wh i le m i x i ng coo l t o 45-5OC. Add G lyd an t
and Dow Corning.
L u b r i c a t i o n
H eat w a t e r a nd C i t r i c A c i d t o 65C. P r e- mi x R i t a CA, R i t a -
Re f. No. 116-166
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested Formula t ions
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Hair Care Products
195
Clear Gel Hairdressing
Inq re di nt s
:
A M in e ra l o i l , Na ph the n ic , D ra ko l 10B
B r i j 97
A r l a t o n e
G
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
Sorbo
B Water, de i on i zed
C *Pe rfume #44575, F r i t z s c h e Br o t he rs
13.70
1 5 . 5 0
1 5 . 5 0
8 . 6 0
6 .9 0
39.80
f q .
s . t h e s e i g r e di e n t s .
Procedure :
Cool
t o 70C and add ( C) . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and po ur w h i l e
s t i l l f l u i d .
Heat (A) and
8 )
t o 9OC. Add ( B) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .
Water/Oil Hair Dressing
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A P e t r o l a t u m
M in er al o i l
Lanol in
A r l a c e l 8 3
Beeswax
Z i nc s t e a r a t e
B Borax
Wa te r , d e i o n i ze d
C *F ragrance and Pr es e r va t i ve
*q. s ,
t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .
&yl
7 .5 0
37.50
3 .0 0
3 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
1 . o o
0 . 5 0
45.50
Procedure :
moderate b u t tho rough a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C.
S t i r
u n t i l
Heat (A) t o 75C. Heat
( B )
t o 77C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A) s l o w l y w i t h
room temperature and package.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l at i o n s
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196 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear 'N' Natural Condit ioner
T h is c l e a r c o n d i t i o n e r a cq u i re s i t s v i s c o s i t y f rom t h e
s u p er i o r t h i c k e n i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f C r o t h i x* .
P a r t
A :
Oeioni zed water 87 .5
Cr ov ol PK-70 (PEG-45 Palm Kern el G ly c er id es ) 3 . 0
P a r t E :
P r o c e t y l AWS (PPG-5 Ce te th 20) 3. 0
C r o t h i x * (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 2 . 0
P a r t C :
I n c r o q u a t 0-50 (O le al ko niu m Ch lo r i d e ) 2 . 0
Incroquat EA-85 (Babassuamidopropalkonium C h l o r i d e ) 0 . 5
P a r t D :
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
99%
qs t o pH 6
P a r t
E :
Pro p yle n e G l y co l ( a n d)
D i
azo1 i d i ny l Urea (and ) Me thy l
Paraben (and) Pr op yl Paraben** 1
. o
H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino Ac id s ) 1
. o
Procedure :
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A and he at t o 80-85C. When Pa r t
A
i s homogeneous, add Pa r t B w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l u n i fo r m . Add
P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l b a t c h t o 30-35C. A d j u s t pH t o
6 .0 + -0 .5 u s i n g Pa r t 0. Add Pa r t E w i t h m i x i ng .
covered under
U . S .
Patent #5,192,462.
I n a r e d i e n t s :
3
**Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved
Formula HP-165
*The use o f C r o t h i x i n c os me ti c and o t h e r f o r m u l a t io n s i s
Cream of Wheat C onditioner
T h i s c o n d i t i o n e r g i v e s e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g / m o i s t u r i z i n g
c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .
I n e r e d i e n t s :
9
P a r t A :
Pol awax (Emu1 s i y i ng Wax N F ) 5.00
Inc roqua t Beheny l TMS (Behen t r imon ium Methosu l fa te
( an d) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 3 . 0 0
Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ
O i l
(Wheat Germ
O i l )
2 .5 0
Par t E :
De io n ize d Water 85 .50
P a r t
C :
Cro p e p t i d e
W
(H yd ro l yz ed Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat
01 g o sa cch a r i d e s ) 3 .0 0
Germaben I 1 1 . o o
Procedure :
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 75C.
H ea t P a r t B t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l
t o 45C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s f r om P a r t C s e q u e n t i a l l y w i t h m i x i ng
and c oo l t o d e s i r e d
f i l l
t e m p e ra tu re .
p H : 4.5+-0.5
Viscosi ty : 50,OOOcps+- lO%
N.A.T .C. Appr ove d Formul a HP-164
SOURCE: Croda Inc.: Suggested Formula t ions
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Hair Care
Products
197
Conditioner and Setting Lotion
Wei a h t ,
Macka lene 316 (Stearam idopropy l D imethy lamine La ct a t e ) 4 . 0
Gafquat 755
8.0
Mackol
16
( C e t y l A l c o h o l )
0 . 5
Ua cks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs
Water , Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0
Procedure :
1 . C o mp le t el y d i s p e r s e G a fq ua t 755 i n w a t e r .
2 . Add Mackalene 316 and Mackol 16 and he at t o
70
degrees C .
3. 61 end u n t i 1 co mp le te ly homogeneous.
4 . Cool t o 4 5 degrees C . and add remaining components.
5. Coo1 and f i l l
Curl Conditioner and Oil Sheen
Wei Qht ,
G l y c e r i n e
4 7 . 0
Pro p y le n e G l yco l 3 . 0
Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hyd ro ly zed An ima l P r o t e i n )
( Na tu ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n )
4 . 0
Mackanate DC-30 (D iso diu m Dim eth ico ne Co pol yol
S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 3 . 0
Macks ta t DM
(DMDM
Hyd a n to i n )
qs
De io n i ze d Water q s t o 100 .0
Procedure :
Add comDonents i n o r d e r a nd b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .
Foaming Conditioner
Wei a h t ,
Macka lene 116 (Cocamidopropy l D imethy la mine La ct a t e ) 15 .0
Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hy dr o ly ze d Animal P r o t e i n )
( N at u ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n )
4 .0
N a t r o s o l
2 5 0
HHR
0.7
Mackam 35 (Cocami do pr op yl B e t a i ne ( V i a Gl y c e r i d e) 1 0 . 0
Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydan to in ) qs
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 1 00 .0
Procedure :
1 . T ho ro ug hl y d i s p e r s e t h e N a t r o s o l i n w at er and h e a t t o
4 5
2 . Add Mackam 35, Mackale ne 116 and Mackpro NLP.
3 B le nd u n t i l c l e a r .
4 . Add Mackstat DM, f rag rance and dye .
5 .
Cool
and
f i
11.
SOURCE: M c In t y r e G rou p L t d . : Pe rson a l C a r e Formu la ry
degrees
C .
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98
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioner with Croquat HH
T h i s creamy w h i t e c o n d i t i o n e r o f f e r s t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y
b e n e f i t s of q u a t e r n i z i n g w i t h t h e permanant c o n d i t i o n i n g
p o t e n t i a1
o f
a c y s t e i n e -c o nt a i n i ng p r o t e i n .
P a r t A :
I n c r o q u a t S-85 (S te a ra l ko n iu m Ch lo r i d e )
1 .50
Po l awax (Emu ls i f y i ng Wax NF) 4 .50
Crodaco l CS-50 ( Ce tea ry l A lc oh o l ) 5 . 6 0
Crodamol
W
(S te a ry l He p ta n o a te ) 6.50
In cr oc as 40 (PEG-40 Cas tor O i l ) 2 .75
P a r t 8 :
Dei on i zed Water 75.1 5
P a r t C :
Cro quat HH (Cocodimonum Hy dro xy pro py l H yd rol yz ed Ha i r
K e r a t i n ) 3 .0 0
P a r t
D :
P r op y le n e G l y c o l ( a nd ) D i a z o l i d i n y l U rea ( a nd ) Me t hy l
Paraben (and) Pr op yl Paraben* 1 . o o
Hea t Pa r t
B
t o 75-80C. Add P ar t
B
t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g, w h i l e
a v o id i n g a e r a t i o n , and co o l t o 55C. Add Pa r t C w i t h m i x i n g a n d
coo l t o 40C. Add Par t
D
w i t h m i x i n g a nd c o o l t o d es i r e d
f i
1
te m p e ra tu re .
I n n r e d i a n t s :
3
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t
A
w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 75-80C.
pH: 4.0+-0.5
V i sco s i t y : 3 5 ,0 0 0 + -1 0 % ( @ 25C)
* Germaben I 1
N . A . T . C .
Approved
Formula HP-172
High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner
T h is f o r m u l a t i o n g i v es e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g t o h a i r .
I n a r e d i e n t s :
P a r t
A :
Crodafos CES (Ce te a r y l a l co h o l (an d) Ce t e a ry l ph o sp h ate )
6.00
Inc roqua t Beheny l
TMS
(Behen t r imon ium Me tho su l fa t e (and )
C e t e ar y l A l c o h o l ) 1 - 0 0
Propy l pa raben 0 .1 0
Vo lpo S-2 (S t ea r e th -2 ) 0 .50
Crodaco l C-70 (C e t y l A l co ho l ) 2 .00
Crodamol PTIS ( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e )
1
. o o
P a r t B :
De ion i zed Water 87.98
In cr om ec ta nt LAMEA (A ce tam ide MEA (an d) La ct am id e MEA) 1.00
Methy l paraben 0 .10
P a r t
C :
TEA 99% 0 .3 2
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t
B
w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 6 5-70C.
Add Par t
B
t o P a r t
A
w i t h m i x i n g an d co o l t o 40C. Co n t in u e
m ix i n g and ad d P a r t
C .
Cool t o d e s i r e d
f i l l
t e m p e ra tu re .
pH: 4.50+-0.5
V i sco s i t y : 5 6 ,0 0 0 + -1 0 %
N . A . T . C .
App rove d Form ula HP-178-1
SOURCE: Cr oda I n c .
:
S ugges t ed Fo r m u la t i ons
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t
A
w i t h m i x i n g a nd h ea t t o 6 5- 70 .
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Hair
Care Products
199
Cream Curl Activator
Formula:
Phase A :
Deio n ize d Water
H y dr o xy p ro py l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
T r i
et ha no l ami ne
Pantheno l
Hydro1yzed
S i 1
k P r o t e i n ( I keda)
Q ua ter n i urn-1 5
Phase 6:
Macol
C P S
S o l u l a n 1 6
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l
Masi 1
656
F l u i d
Masi 1 SF-V F l u i d
Masi l 280
Phase C :
C i t r i c A c id 50
Fragrance
%Wt.
80.43
0 .2 0
0.02
1
. o o
1 . o o
0 .3 0
6.00
1 . o o
2 . 0 0
3 .00
3.00
2.00
0 . 0 5
q . s .
Procedure :
D i s p e r s e Hy d r o xy p r o py l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e w a t er ; add TEA
t o i n i t i a t e h yd r a t i o n . A f t e r 20 m in s. add r em ai ni ng A i n g r e d i -
e nt s , h e a t t o 55C and s t i r . S e pa r at e l y b l e n d 6 and h ea t t o 55C.
Add
6
t o A , m a i n t a i n a g i t a t i o n w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. A d j u s t pH
and add f rag rance .
Hair Relaxer Emulsion
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
PEG-75 1a n o l i
Wh i te P ro to p e t
Emu1 s i y i ng wax
S
P e t r o l a t u m
P r o p y l e n e g lyco
H y d r ol y z ed a ni ma l p r o t e i n
S t e a r i c a c i d
Sodi um h y d r o x i de, 50%
F ra g ra n ce
Water
Percent
14 .00
4.00
18.00
5 . 5 0
5.00
5.00
1
.50
6.00
0 . 3 0
q.s.100.00
SOURCE: Wi tco Co rp . : Pe tro le u m S p e c ia l t i e s G ro up : Sug ge sted
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Hair Care Products
2 1
Cream Hair Rinse
I n q r e d i e n t s :
C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j
721s
F o re s ta l 1
Wate r , de ion ized
o/ w/w
1 . 5 0
1 . o o
1 . 4 0
96 .10
Procedure :
s t i r r i n g and add makeup w a t e r .
Formula PC-8214
Heat t o 70 deg.
C
w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i fo rm . Cool w i t h
Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsion
I nqr ed
i
n t s :
A
C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 721, S t ea r et h -2 1
S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .
w
6 . 0 0
5 .0 0
0 I
50
B Wate r , de io n i zed 66 .30
C Hydrog en p e ro x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g ra de 22 * 20
Procedure :
modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) be low 35C. Rep lace wa te r l o s t by
e v a p o r a t i on and a d j u s t pH t o 3. 5 - 4. 0 w i t h d i l u t e p h o sp h o ri c
a c i d (10% C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i ne r f o r p o s s i b l e
e v o l u t i on o f oxygen.
Formula HC-13
Heat (A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) s l o w ly w i t h
Permanent Wave Lotion
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A F o r e s t a l l
B r i j 35 S P
Wate r, de io n i zed
w/w
1 . 4 0
2 . 0 0
80.10
B
Et han ol ami ne 9. 50
C
T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d 7 . 0 0
Procedure :
Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o 9 . 0- 9 .5 w i t h a d d i t i o n a l e t ha n ol a mi n e o r
t h i o g l y c o l i a c i d .
Formula HC-15
SOURCE:
IC1
Su r f a c ta n t s : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
M i x ( A) w i t h g e n t l e he at i f n ec es sa ry u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add
( B ) .
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2 2
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Deep Conditioning Treatment
Deep c o n d i t i o n i n g f o r m u l a bas ed on a c o n t r o l l e d d e p o s i t i o n
o f C h o le s t e ro l
I n a r e d i e n t s
1 . D i s t i 1 ed /D e i on i zed Water
2 . P ro p yle n e G l yc o l
3 . R i t a c h o l ( R . I . T . A . Blend )
4 . Ri ta -STAC (S tea r t r imon ium Ch lo r ide )
5 .
Ch o l es te ro l NF
6 .
Sup er sat AWS-4 (PEG-20 Hy dr og en at ed
L a n o l i n )
7 . R i tacho l 1000
( R . I . T . A .
B le n d )
8 .
P e t r o l a t u m
9.
Frag rance
10. Kathon
CG
F u n c t i o n
75.17
---------
3 . 0 0 M o i s t u r e
2 .0 0 Co n t ro l
1 .50 Condi t i ner
1 .0 0 Re p a i r
2 . 0 0 Repa i r
5 .00 Repa i r
0.30 Odor
0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e
I O , 0 E m u l s i f i e r
Compounding Procedure:
combine i t em s 3-8 and heat t o 70C. Mi x and add t o water phase
w i t h good m ix i n g . Coo l t o 50C an d add p er fum e an d p r e s e r va t i ve .
Combine items 1 and
2
and h ea t t o 75-8OC. I n a separa te beaker
Ref. No. 118-116
Intensive Co nditioner
with
Body
A d e t a n g l i n g c o n d i t i o n e r w i t h g r e a t w et / dr y combing. H a i r
has in cr ea se d body/vo lume.
I n a r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n
1 . Rita -BTAC (Be he n tr imo n iu m Ch l o r i d e ) 4 .0 0 Co n d i t i o n e r , A n t i -
S t a t i c
2 . R i t a
CA
( C e t y l A l c o h o l )
3 .00 Emuls i
f
i r ,
Th ickener
3 . R i t a
SA
( S t e a r y l A l c oh o l )
1 . O O E m u l s i f i e r , T h i c k e n e r
5 . V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e F l u i d 344 o r 345 5. 00 L u b r i c a n t , E m o l l i e n t
6 . S i l i c o n e F l u i d 200 ( 10 0 c S t ) 5 .0 0 L u b r i c a n t , E mo ll i n t
7. Wheat Germ O i 1 1.00 Nour ishment
8 .
G lyd a n t
0.20
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure:
Heat i t em s 1-3 t o 70C. Heat wat er t o 80-85C. Add i t em s 1-3
t o w ate r a nd mix u n t i l i t re ac he s 50C. Then add ite ms 5-7 and
m i x .
A t
45C add i te ms 8 . Mix u n t i l 35-4OC.
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested Form ula t ions
4. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 8 0. 80 ----.---------
Ref.
No.
116-170
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Hair
Care Products 2 3
Ethnic Hair Care
Clear Hair Rinse
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Water
H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Pro pyle ne G1 y c o l
G1 yce r
i
Q u a t e r n iurn-80 (Ab i 1 Quat 3272 )
D im e th i con e Co p o lyo l ( A b i l
B
88183)
PEG-30 Gly ce ry l La ur a t e (Tagat L )
F rag rance
91.30
1 .20
3 .0 0
2 .oo
0 .50
1 . o o
1 . o o
Q . S .
Q.S.
Procedure :
1 . Add th e wa te r a nd p r e s e r va t i ve . Hea t t o 50C. M i x . D i sp e rse
2 . Add t h e re m a in in g i n g re d i e n t s . Co ol t o 35C.
3 . P r e b l e n d t h e T a g at L and f r a gr a n ce . Add t o b at c h . M i x u n t i l
t h e HMC. M i x u n t i l c l e a r .
c l e a r u s i n g s l o w sp ee d.
Ethnic Hair Care
Hair Dressings
I n q r e d i e n t s :
Water
H y dr o xy p ro py l M e t h yl c e l l u l ose
P r e s e r v a t i v e
P r o w l e n e G l y c ol
G1 yce r i
Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272)
D im e th i con e Co p o l yo l (A b i l B 88183)
PEG-30 Glycery l Laurate (Tagat L )
Frag rance
w/w
91 .30
1 .20
3 .0 0
2.00
0.50
1 .oo
1 . o o
Q.S.
Q.S.
Procedure :
1 . Add th e wa te r a nd p r e s e r va t i ve . He a t t o 50C. M i x . D i sp e rse
2 .
Add t h e re m a in i n g i n g re d i e n t s . Coo l t o 35C.
3 . P r e b l e n d t h e Ta ga t L and f r a g r a n c e . Add t o b at c h . M i x u n t i l
SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Ch em ical Cor p . : Suggested Formul a t i ons
t h e HMC. M i x u n t i l c l e a r .
c l e a r u s i n g s l ow spe ed .
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2 4
Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
Ethnic Hair Care
Curl Activation Gels
Hair Repair
I n g r e d i e n t s :
9bw/w
T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0 . 1 0
Water 75.80
G l y c e r i n 5 . 0 0
Prop y len e G1 yc o l 15 .00
Carbomer 940 0 .7 5
D im e th i co n e Co p o l yo l
( A b i l
B 88183)
1 .oo
Dim e th i co n e P ro p y l PG Be ta i n e ( A b i l B 9 95 0) 0 .5 0
Dime thicone /Sodium PG Propy l D ime th ic one T h i o s u l f a t e
Copo lymer (Ab i l S
2 0 1 ) 1
. o o
PEG-30 G l y c e r y l La ur a t e (Tagat L ) 0 .50
Fragrance
Q . S .
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
Q . S .
Tr ie than o lam ine (99%) 0 .35
Procedure :
1 . M i x t h e w a t e r , G l y c e r i n , P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l , and T e t r as o d iu m
2 . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between
3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e C arbomer w i t h S odium H y d r ox i d e s o l u t i o n or
EDTA t o g e t h e r . D i sp er se t h e Carbomer 940.
a d d i t i o n s . N o te : P r e b le n d t h e T ag at L and f r a g r a n c e .
t h e T r i et h a no l a mi n e .
Ethnic Hair Care
Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens
Conditioning Sheen
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Water
72.00
Tetrasodium EDTA
0 . 1 0
Pro py le ne G1 yc o l
1 0 . 0 0
G1 y c e r
i
15.00
Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272)
0.40
Dime th ic one Pr opy l PG Be ta i ne ( A b i l B
9950)
0 . 2 5
Dimeth ic one Copo lyo l (Ab i
1
B
88183) 0 . 7 5
PEG-75 L a n o l i n
0 . 7 5
PEG-30 G ly ce ry l La ur a t e (Tagat L )
0 .5 0
PEG-I8 G l yc e r y l Cocoate /O lea te ( A n t i l 171) 0 .25
Fragrance
Q . S .
P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S .
Procedure :
1
Heat water t o 50C. Di ss o l ve Te t r asod ium EDTA.
2 . Add t h e T ag at L , A n t i l 1 71 , a nd PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l
c l e a r .
3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i -
t i o n s .
4 . A d j u s t p H .
SOURCE: Goldsc hmid t Chemical Cor p.: Suggested Fo rm ul at io ns
C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) T O pH 5-6
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Hair Care
Products
2 5
Ethnic Hair Care
Curl Activation Gel
For Shine
I n a r e d i e n t s :
T et ra s od i um
EDTA
Water
G1 yce r
i
Pro p y le n e G l yco l
Carbomer 940
D im e th i con e Co p o l yo l (A b i l
B
8851)
D im e th i con e Co p o l yo l ( A b i l B 88183)
PEG-30 Gl yc er y l La ur a t e (Tagat L )
F rag rance
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
Sodium Hydrox ide (25% S o l u t i on )
0 .10
76.65
15.00
5 . 00
0 . 7 5
1 .oo
1 . o o
0 .50
Q . S .
Q . S .
t o pH 6
Procedure :
1 . M i x t h e w a t e r, G l y c e r i n , P r op y le n e G l y c o l , and T e tr a so d iu m
2 . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d er , m i x i n g w e l l between
3 N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h S odium H y dr o xi de s o l u t i o n o r
EDTA to ge th e r. Dis per se t h e Carbomer 940.
a d d i t i o n s . N o te : P r eb l en d t h e T ag at L a nd f r a g r a n c e .
t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e.
Ethnic Hair Care
Curl
Activation Gel
Moisturizing
I
n a r ed i e n t s
:
T et r as od i um EDTA
Water
G l y c e r i n
P ro p y le n e G l yco l
Carbomer 940
D im e th i con e Co p o lyo l ( A b i l B 88183)
D ime th icone Propy l PG B e t a in e ( A b i l B 9950)
PEG-30 Gl yc er y l La ur a t e (Tagat L )
F rag rance
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
T r i e th a n o la m in e (9 9 %)
%w/w
0.10
76.30
10.00
10.00
0 .75
1 .oo
1 . o o
0 .5 0
Q . S .
Q . S .
0 .35
Procedure :
1 . M i x t h e wa te r, G l y ce r i n , P ro p yle n e G l y co l , an d T e t raso d iu m
EDTA to ae t he r . DisDer se t h e Carbomer
940.
2 . Add th e - re s t of t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n or d e r, m i x i n g we
a d d i t i o n s . N ot e: P r eb l en d t h e T ag at L and f ragrance
3 . Ne u t ra l i ze t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium Hyd ro x i d e s o l u t
t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e .
SOURCE: Goldschmi
d t
Chemical Corp
:
Suggested Formul a t
1 between
o n o r
o n s
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206 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Ethnic Hair Care
Leave-In Moisturizing/Sheen
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Phase
A:
T e t ra so d iu m
EDTA
Water
O le th -2 0
D i m e th i c on e C o p o ly o l ( A b i l B 88183)
Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272)
G1 y c e r i
Phase B:
PEG-30
G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (T ag at L)
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure :
1 . A d d t h e w a te r , O le th -2 0, h e a t t o 40C. M i x u n t i l c l e a r .
2 . Add th e re m a in i n g i n g re d i e n t s o f Phase
A
m i x i n g each u n t i
3 . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e t o t h e T aga t L . M i x w e l l - add t o Phase
4 . Cool w i t h m i x i n g - a d d p r e s e r v a t i v e s .
c l e a r .
0 .1
77.9
2 .0
3 . 0
0 .5
1 5 . 0
1 . 5
Q . S .
Q S
A .
Ethnic Hair Care
Hair Cuticle Coat Condit ioner
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Cyc lometh icone (and) Dimeth icono l (and) Dimeth icone
( A b i l OSW 12)
Cyc lometh icone
Isohexadecane o r M i n e r a l
Oil
I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T eg o so f t
M )
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o ft OS)
Pheny l T r ime th icone ( A b i l
AV
2 0 )
Fragrance
Procedure :
Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r de r w i t h m i x in g .
w/w
5 5 . 0
25.0
10.0
3 . 0
2 .0
5 . 0
Q . S .
SOURCE: Goldschmid t Chemical Cor p . : Suggested For mu la t ion s
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Hair Care Products 207
Ethnic Hair Care
Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens
Moisturizing Sheen
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Water
T et ra s od i um EDTA
Pr opy len e G1 y c o l
G1 y c e r i n
D ime th icone Propy l PG Beta ine (AB11 B 9950)
D im e th i con e Co p o lyo l ( A b i l B 88183)
PEG-75 Lanol i n
PEG-30 Gl yc er y l La ur a t e (Tagat L )
PEG-18 G l yc e r y l Cocoa te /O lea te ( A n t i l 171 )
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n )
Procedure :
1 . Hea t wa te r t o 50C. D i ss o l ve Te t rasod ium EDTA
Z
72.40
0 .10
10.00
15.00
0.50
0 .50
0.75
0 .5 0
0 .25
Q.S.
Q.S.
T O
pH 5-6
2. Add t h e Tagat L , A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 La no l i n . M ix u n t i l
c l e a r .
3 . Add t h e r e m a in i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g betw een
a d d i t i o n s .
4 . Ad just pH.
Ethnic Hair Care
Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens
Extra Sheen
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Water
Tetrasodium EDTA
Pro p y le n e G l yco l
G1 y c e r i n
D ime th icone Propy l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l
B
9950)
D im e th i con e Co p o lyo l ( A b i l
B
88183)
PEG-75 Lanol i n
PEG-30 G l yc e r y l C ocoa te /O lea te ( A n t i l 171 )
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
C i t r i c A c id (25% s o l u t i o n )
Procedure :
1 . Hea t wa te r t o 50C. D i ss o l ve Te t rasod ium E D T A .
?vJy
66.15
0 .10
10.00
20.00
0 .75
1 .50
0 . 7 5
0 .2 5
Q.S.
Q.S.
T O
pH 5-6
2 . Add t h e Taga t L, A n t i l 1 71, a nd PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l
c l e a r .
3 . Add t h e r e m a i n in g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g betw een
add i t i ns .
4 . Adjust pH.
SOURCE: Goldschm id t Chemica l Co rp . : Suggested Form ula t ions
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208 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ethnic Hair Glosser/Condit ioner
T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l f or m ul a based on a s i l i c o n e D o lv m er i c
e m u l s i f i e r i s d es ig ne d f o r use
g i v e g l o s s and body e s p e c i a l l y
t r e a t e d .
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Phase A : O i l Phase:
Ce ty l D ime th icone Copo lyo l (Ab
P e t r o l a t u m
M i n e r a l O i l
as a l ea v e on c o n d i t i o n e r t o
f o r h a i r w hi ch h as been c h e m i c a l l y
1 EM-90)
Ce ty l D im eth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l Wax 9801)
Oc ty l P a l m i ta te (Tegos o f t OP)
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o so f t P)
L a n o l i n O i l
P he ny l T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l
AV
20)
Phase B:
F rag rance
Phase
C :
Water Phase:
Water
Sod ium Ch lor ide
G l y c e r i n
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
2 . 0
6 . 0
10.0
2 .0
3 . 5
3 . 5
3 . 0
2 .0
Q . S .
64 .3
0 . 7
3 .0
Q.S.
Procedure :
1 . B lend t h e components o f Phase
A
t o g e th e r , h e a t i n g t o 5OC.
2 . C o ol t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add f r a g r a n c e .
3 . I n a sepa ra e ves se l , m ix th e componen ts t o Phase C t o g e t h e r .
4 . Add Phase C t o Phase A / B s l o w ly w i t h s low l i g h t n i n g mix .
5 . Homogeni ze.
M ix u n t i l f u l l y d i s pe rs ed .
M ix u n t i l a 1 w ate r i s i n c o r p or a te d i n t o t h e o i l phase.
Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Water
P ro p y le n e G l yco l
G l y c e r i n
D ime th icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l
B
88183)
Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272)
Pantheno l
T o co p h e ro l Ace ta te (V i t a m in E )
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
Procedure :
Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o rd e r w i t h m i x in g .
&y&
8 2 .2
7 . 5
7 .5
2 .0
0 .5
0 . 2
0 .1
Q . S .
SOURCE: Gold sch mi d t Che mical Co rp .
:
Suggested Formul a t i ns
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Hair Care
Products 2 9
Ethnic Hair Glosser/Extra Condit ioning
T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l f o r m ul a based on a s i l i c o n e p o l y m e r i c
e m u l s i f i e r i s de sig ne d f o r use as a le a ve on c o n d i t i o n e r t o
g i ve g l o s s and b ody e sp e c ia l l y f o r h a i r whi ch h as been chem-
i
a l l y t r e a t e d
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Phase
A : O i l
Phase:
Ce ty l D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l EM-90)
P e t r o l a t u m
M i n e r a l O i l
Ce ty l Dimeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801)
O c ty l Pa lm i t a t e (T e g o so f t OP)
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g os o f t
P )
L a n o l i n O i l
Ph e n y l T r im e th i co n e (Ab i l A V 20)
Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat
3474)
Phase 8 :
Fragrance
Phase
C :
Water Phase:
Water
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
G1 yce r i
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
%&y&
2 . 0
6 . 0
1 0 . 0
2 .0
3.5
3 . 0
3 . 0
2 . 0
0.5
Q . S
64.3
0.7
3.0
Q . S
Procedure :
1 . Blen d t h e components o f Phase A t o g e t h e r
-
h e a t in g t o 50C.
2 .
Cool t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n
-
a d d f ra g ra n ce .
3. I n a sepa ra te vess e l , m ix th e componen ts t o Phase C t o g e t h e r .
4. Add Phase
C
t o Phase A / B s l o w l y w i t h s low l i g h t n i n g mi x.
5 . Homogeni ze .
M ix u n t i l f u l l y d isp er se d.
M ix u n t i l a l l w a t er i s i nc or po ra te d i n t o t h e o i l phase.
Ethnic Hair Care
Extra Conditioning Coat Condit ioner
I n a r e d i e n t s
:
Cyclometh icone (and) Dimeth icono l (and)
( A b i l
OSW
12)
Cyc l omethi cone
Isohexadecane o r M ine ra l
O i l
O cty l Pa lm i t a t e (T e g o so f t OP)
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS)
P he ny l T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 20)
Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474)
D i
met hi cone
50.0
30.5
8.0
3.0
3.0
5.0
0.5
Procedure :
SOURCE:
Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Cor p, : Suggested Formul a t i ons
Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n or d e r w i t h m i x i ng .
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21 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Extra Hold Condit ioning Mousse
I ater
Amphomer
A m i
nomethy l Propano l
Dow Corning 929 Emuls ion
Phosphol
i
i d EFA
SD3A Alcohol
11. H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e
Water
I
1. Prope l 1 an t
by Wei Ph t
37.35
3.75
0.60
0 . 4 0
0 .60
10.00
0.30
37.00
10.00
Procedure :
c a r e f u l l y s p r i n k l e h y dr ox ye th y l c e l l u l o s e i n t o wa t er w i t h good
a g i t a t i o n . Heat may be a p p l i e d t o h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . B le nd
P a r t I1 t o I and t h e n a e r o s o l i z e .
P re p a re Pa r t I nd I 1 s e p a r a t e l y . To p r e p a r e P a r t 11,
Formula F-554
Leave-On Hair Conditioner
I n q r e d i e n t s :
Water
H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e
G l y c o l
Di
s t e a r a t e
C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l
Monaquat TG
Phosphol
i
i d EFA
Methyl Paraben
Propy l Paraben
bv Weiqht
90
I 2
0 .5
1 .5
1 . 8
5 . 5
0 . 3
0 . 1
0 . 1
Procedure
Charge
a g i t a t i o n
S t i r c o o l
w a te r , s l o w l y add h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e w i t h good
t o b l e n d 40C a nd a dd f ra g ra n c e , co l o r , e t c . Packa ge .
. Add rema in ing in g r ed ie n ts and hea t t o 65-7OC.
W h it e P e a r l e d L o t i o n
V i s c o s i t y : 2 5 0 0
cp
p H : 5 . 6
SOURCE: Mona In d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
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Hair Care Products 211
Firm Hold Hairspray
I n n r e d i e n t s :
Resyn 28-291 3
AMP
C r o t e i n AD Anhydrous
DC- 190
Armeed DM18D
Frag rance
Anhydrous Ethanol, SDA-40
Pr ope l 1 a n t A-46
Pa r t s b y Weig ht
2 .50
0.24
0.20
0 .20
0 .15
71 - 7 1
25.00
Q.S.
Va lve : Seaqu is t
NS-41
Stem:
2
x 0 .02 0 (A ce t a l )
Stem Ga sk et : Buna N 0.042 '' Sp r i ng : 0 .023 302 SS
Body: 0.06 2 (N ylo n) 0.020' '
VT
Mou nti ng Cup: R egu lar , Epoxy Top/Bottom, Dim pled
A c t u a t o r : 0. 02 0 M i s t y , A c e t a l ( b l a c k )
D i s s o l v e AMP i n anhydrous e t ha no l , SDA-40. S l ow ly add
Pre p a ra t
i
n :
Resyn 28-2913 t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n .
Add re m a in in g i n g re d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r a nd
f i 1 co n c e n t r a te . Cha rge p ro p e l 1a n t .
Formul a 6472 :94
High Performance Styling Spray
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Resyn 28-2930
AMP
Dow Corning 556 f l u i d
C r o t e i n AD Anh.
C i t r o f l e x 2
Frag rance
190 P r oo f Et h an o l, SDA-40
P a r t s by Wei ah t
6 .75
0.83
0.15
0.20
0.15
0.10
92.02
P r e p a r a t i on
:
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y a dd Resyn 28-2930 t o t h e v o r t e x . C o n t in u e
m i x in g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s com ple te . Add ba la nc e o f i n g r e d i e n t s .
When homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l .
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co rp .: Suggested Formulas
D i s s o l v e AMP i n t h e 190 p r oo f SDA-40. Wh i le ma i n t a i n i ng good
Formula 6472:95
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212 Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
Gel Curl Activator
Water
Acrylate/Steareth-20/Methacrylate
H y s t a r CG
G1 y c e r i ne 99%
P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l
D ime th ic one Copo lyo l 193
Germaben
I 1
T r i et ha no l ami ne
Fragrance
J o j o b a O i l
( A c r y s o l I C s - 1 )
Copolymer
5 7 . 7
2.0
1 0 . 3
23.9
2.0
2.3
1 . o
0.7
q . s .
0 . 1
Procedure :
Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n d es cen din g o r d e r i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l
t a nk , w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n and m ix t i l c l e a r . Pack i n a p l a s t i c
t u b e o r a p l a s t i c b o t t l e .
Alcohol Free Styl ing Gel
pH:
7.2
Water
P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l
A c r y l a t e / S t e a r e t h - 2 0 / M e t h a c r y l a t e Copolymer
Germaben I 1
Dim eth ic one Copo lyo l 193
Fragrance
T r i e th a n o la m in e
Jo jo b a O i l
( A c r y s o l I C s - 1 )
12.0
2.0
1
. o
0 . 5
0 . 5
0.7
0 . 1
83.2
Procedure :
a g i t a t i o n . N ext add i t e m
6 ,
a g i t a t e t i l c lear and package.
SOURCE:
Frank
B .
R o s s C o . ,
I n c . :
Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions
To t h e w a te r add i n g r e d i e n t s
2
t h r u
5
p l u s 7 w i t h v ar y s l ow
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Hair Care Products 213
Guanidine
No
Base Relaxer
A c r e a m / a c t i v a t o r s ys tem f o r a no ba se r e l a x e r .
I n g r e d i e n t s : w/w F u n c t i o n
I
c t i v a t o r S o l u t i o n :
1
R . I . T . A .
GC (Guan id ine Carbona te ) 3 0 . 0 0 A c t i v a t o r
2 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 70 00
3 . C o l o r , P r e s e r v a t i v e q I s . P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure:
11. No Base Cream:
1 R i t a c h o l 5 0 0 0 ( R . I . T . A . B le nd ) 1 2 . 0 0 Emu1 s i i e r
2 . R i t a d er m ( R . I . T . A . B l en d ) 4 . 0 0 E m o l l i e n t
3 .
P e t r o l a t u m 1 0 . 0 0 T e x t u r e
4 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t . 16.00 Spread
5 . Supersa t AWS 4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated La no l i n ) 2 .00 Mo is tu re
6 . Ca l c i u m Hyd ro x i d e , D ry 7 .0 0 Re la xe r
7 .
P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l
5 . 0 0
Moi s t u r e
8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
4 4 . 0 0 --------
Compounding Procedure:
6 -8 and heat t o 70C. Combine b o t h phases, mi x w e l l and co o l
w i t h m i x i n g t o 45C. Add r e m a i ni n g i n g r e d i e n t s and c o o l w i t h
m i x i ng t o 40C. Package I a t 1 .7 5 f 1 . o ~ . ackage
I 1
a t 7 . 5 0
f l . 0 2 .
D i r e c t i o n s :
M i x I n
11,
s t i r w e l l w i t h wooden s t i c k u n t i l c o l o r i s
c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . Use as p e r normal r e l a x e r i n s t r u c t i o n s .
Re f . No. 117-82
Combine ing re d i en ts a t 2OC
w i
t h a de qu at e m i x i ng .
Combine in g r ed ie n ts 1 -5 and hea t t o 70C. Combine in g r ed ie n t s
Potassium Relaxer
P o t a s s ium H yd ro xi de re 1axe r based on t h e emu ls i f i c a t i on power
o f R i ta c ho l 5000.
I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n ct i o n
1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 1 5 . 0 0 Emu 1 s i i r
2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t .
1 7 . 0 0
E m o l l i e n t
3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l
O i l
and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l )
2 . 0 0
Spread
4 . Pe t r o la t um 17 .50 Spread
5 . R i t a hy d r o x ( H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n ) 0 . 5 0 St ab i 1i y
6 .
Prop y lp a ra b en 0 .1 3 P r e se rv a t i ve
7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 E m u l s i f i e r
8 . G l y c e r i n e
@
99% 6. 00 Humectant
I O .Meth y l paraben
0 . 2 0
P r e s e r v a t i v e
11 .Po tass ium Hydrox ide
13
25% 10.0 0 Re lax er
Compoundi ng Pr oce dur e:
Combine i t e m s 1 -7 i n se p a ra te co n ta i n e r a nd h e a t t o 80C.
Combine i t ems 8 -10 and hea t t o 80C and add t o i tem s 1 -7 . M i x
i n v a r i a b l e speed m i x e r f o r 1 m in u t e. Add wa te r t o c o o l i n g pan
an d m ix u n t i l 65C. S lo w l y ad d KOH. Add i c e t o c o o l i n g p an and
co o l t o 25C.
9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 2 9. 67
-____- -__
R e f .
No.
118-176
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Co r p . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
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214
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Brushing Lotion
A . Amihope LL
TL-10 (PEG-20 S o r b i t a n Mo nol aur ate )
1 , 3 -B u t a ne d i ol ( B u t y l e n e G l y c o l )
S t e a r y l A l c o h o l
Carbopol 941 (Carbomer 941)*
0 . 5
0 . 5
0 . 5
0 . 3
1 0 .0
B .
Water 68.2
C . Ethano l 20 .0
* 0 . 5 w t Carbomer 941 aqueous s o l u t i o n ( n e u t r a l i z e d by NaOH)
Procedure :
1 . Each c he mi ca l c i t e d i n ( A ) i s weighed i n a g l a s s v e s s e l .
Heat i t t o 60-70C and s t i r u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s homogeneous.
2 . Add a p r e v i o u s l y warmed wate r (9) [60-70C] t o t h e fo rm er
p r e pa r e d s o l u t i o n and c o o l i t t o room t e m pe r a t ur e w i t h
s t i r r i n g .
3 . Add a 20 .09 e t ha no l (C ) t o t h e co o le d s o l u t i o n w i t h s t i r r i n g .
Note :
T h i s h a i r b r u sh i n g l o t i o n has a good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and
g i v e s g ood co m b a b i l i t y . Amihope LL d ec re ased th e f r i c t i o n b etwee n
h a i r and comb o r b ru sh re m a r ka b l y .
Usage: S pr ay t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g .
Hair Brushing Lotion
Amihope LL
POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o no l a ur a t e ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 )
E thano l
Procedure :
M ix a l l components a t room temp era t u re .
Wt
0 . 5
0 . 5
9 9 . 0
No te :
e f f e c t and smoothness f o r t h e h a i r .
c a t i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t .
Usage: Spray t h e h a i r b e fo re b ru sh i n g .
SOURCE: A j i n o m o to USA, I n c . : Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions
T h i s h a i r b r us h in g l o t i o n a l c o h o l i c t y p e has good a n t i s t a t i c
Amihope LL a c t s as h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g a ge nt i n s t e a d o f t h e
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Hair Care Products 215
Hair Condit ioner
T h i s f o r m u la i n c o r p o r a t e s a m i x tu r e of p r o t e i n and e x t r a c t s
the have
a good a f f i n i t y f o r h a i r , e s p e c i a l l y when bl ea ch ed and
damaged, l e a v i n g your h a i r smooth , s i l k y and more manageable.
Water Phase I:
Water ( D i s t i l l e d )
Bu ty l e n e G l y co l (Hoe chs t )
G1 y c e r i ne (U ni chema)
C e l l o s i z e ( H e r c u l e s )
M e th y l p a ra b e n (Su t to n )
S o r b i t o l 7 0 %
Carbopol 940 2%
Tr i s hyd roxy methy1 )aminomethane
O i l Phase:
Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen)
L i q u a p a r ( S u t t o n )
G l yce ro l M o n o s te a ra te (He n ke l )
Deo. Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen)
V i t a m i n
E
(BASF)
V i t a m i n
A
Palmi ta te (BASF)
P ro p y lp a ra b e n (Su t to n )
S te a r i c Ac i d (Un ichem )
Wheat Germ
O i
1 (L i p o )
Sweet Almond O i l ( L i p o )
P r op y le n e G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x )
Water Phase 11:
Water
( D i
s t i 1 e d )
T r ie thano lamine (Dow)
Ac t i ve Phase :
G in se ng E x t r a c t ( A c t i v e O r g a ni c s )
A r n i c a E x t r a c t ( A c t i v e O rg an ic s)
Wheat P r o t e i n (Vege-Tech)
F rag rance
61.20%
3.00%
2 .00%
0.30%
0.30%
2.00%
6.00%
0.60%
5 . 0 0
0.40%
2.00%
1 .OO
0.10%
0.10%
0.20%
2.00%
1.20%
1.20%
2.50%
5,00%
1.OO
1
, O O
1.00%
0
70%
0.20%
Procedure :
D i sp e rs e t h e c e l l o s i z e i n t h e w a t er and when d i s p e r s e d and
added th e r e s t o f p ha se . Hea t t h e wa te r p ha se I t o 8OC a n d t h e
o i l phase t o 82C. S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o w a te r phase I
u nd er m od er at e a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 70C and add wa ter phase 11.
Co n t in u e m i x i n g and added th e a c t i v e ph ase a t 35C. Coo l t o
room tempera tu re .
A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u ct :
i n t r od u ce d i n t o t h i s t y p e o f f or mu la .
SOURCE:
Koste r Keunen I n c . : Suggested Fo r mu la t ion
O t he r a c t i v e compounds and c o n d i t i o n i n g a g en t s a r e e a s i l y
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216
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Conditioner with Moisturizers & Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed
Animal Protein
Macko l 1618 (C e te a r y l A l co ho l )
Ma ck er ni um SDC-85 ( S t e a r a l ko ni urn C h l o r i d e )
Wei Qht
,
3 . 0
3 . 0
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l 1
. o
G l y c e r i n 1
. o
Mackamide AME-100 (Acet am ide MEA) 1
. o
M i n e r a l O i l 1 . o
Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hy dro lyz ed Animal P r o t e i n )
( N at u ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2 .0
Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd a n to i n ) qs
De ion ize d Water, Frag ranc e, Dye
q s
t o 1 00 .0
pH: 3 .5 -4 .5
V i s c o s i t y (cps 25 degrees C) : 1500-3000
Procedure :
1 . M e l t waxes a nd o i l s t o 7 0 degrees
C .
2 . Se par a te l y hea t wa ter p l u s Mackp ro NLP t o
70
degrees C . and
add h o t w at er s o l u t i o n t o h o t o i l s and waxes.
3 .
S t a r t s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y f o r 10 m in ut es and t h en s t a r t s low
c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g and a t 40 degrees C . add Mackstat
DM
the n f rag ran ce and dye and s low m ix in g down c l os e t o room
te m p e ra tu re .
4 . S to p mi x i ng a t 30 degrees C,
5 .
A d ju s t pH w i t h c i t r i c ac i d .
High Quality Condit ioner
Mackern ium SDC-25 (S tea ra l ko niu m C hl o r id e)
Macko l 1618 (Ce t ea r y l A l coh o l )
B r i j 72
Macks ta t
DM
(DMDM Hydan to in )
Water, Dye, Fragrance
q s
t o
Procedure :
1 . Add components t o water and heat t o 70 degrees C .
2 . W i th m i l d a g i t a t i o n b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous.
3
Coo l t o 50 deg rees C . and add dye and f ragrance.
4 .
Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: Mc I n t y r e Group L t d . : Per sona l Care Fo rm ula ry
Wei q h t ,
1 0 . 0
2 .0
2 .0
qs
100.0
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Hair
Care Products 217
Hair Condit ioning Gel
Ingred ien ts /Trade Name:
P a r t A :
Deion ized Water
H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
Hydroxypropyl Guar
Hyd ro xyp ro p y l t r im o n iu m Ch lo r i d e
C i t r i c A c i d
Methy lpa raben
by
Weipht
89.94
0.80
0 . 40
0 . 0 6
0 .02
P a r t 8 :
Pantheno l 0 .30
Sodi um P C A / A j i ew N - 5 0 3 . 0 0
P a r t i a l l y D e ac e ty l at e d C h i t i n (1% S o lu t io n )/ M ar i ne - De w 3 .00
D i azo1 d i n y l U re a 0 . 30
Procedure :
Ad d p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Heat t o 75 de gr ee s Ce nt -
i g r a d e . M i x u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . C ool t o 50 d eg re es C en t-
i g ra d e . Ad d p a r t
B
i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e g i v en o r de r , m i x in g
w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . C on ti nu e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o
35 deg rees Cen t ig r ade .
Po lyqua te rn ium-11
2 .0 0
Appearance: C le ar ge l
V i s c o s i t y : 7 ,000-10,000 (RVT #5 I3 lOrpm I3 25 degrees C)
pH: 4.5-5.5
Hair Conditioner with CAE
I n q r e d i e n t s :
Phase A :
Cetano l
Amiter LGS-2
N i
kkol
MYS-55
Phase B :
CAE
A-SM
Prodew 100
G l y c e r i n
Me thy lpa raben
Water
Wt
3 . 0
2 .0
1 . o
1
. o
3 . 0
2 . 0
1 0 .0
0 . 2
77.8
S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : p H : 5 . 0 Vis : 2500 cps
Procedure :
M i x i n g r e d ie n t s Phase A and heat t o 75-80 degrees C. M ix
in g re d ie n t s Ph a se
B
and h e at t o 75-80 degrees C . Add Phase A
t o Phase 8 and mix w i t h homomixer (1500 t o 2500 RPM) . Cool t o
35 degrees C .
T h i s h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r h as good a n t i s t a t i c a nd c o n d i t i o n i n g
e f f e c t s
For mul a No. 1 CR-56-11
SOURCE: Ajinomoto
USA,
I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t ions
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218
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Condit ioning Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A B r i j 721s
C e t y l a l c o h o l
S te ar y l a1 coho1
St ea ra l konium
o ow w
1 . 3 0
0 . 9 0
0 .6 0
0 . 5 0
B Wa te r, d e i o n i ze d 9 6 .7 0
Procedure :
Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 62C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A ) w i t h modera te
a g i t a t i o n . Cool w h i l e a g i t a t i n g t o 40C. Add wa t e r t o compensate
f o r loss due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Clear Hair Condit ioner Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A
Hydroxye thy l ce l l u lose , Na t roso l 250HR
B F o r e s t a l l
Wa te r , d e i o n i ze d
w
40.00
1 .4 0
58.60
Procedure :
w ate r t o y i e l d a
3%
s o l u t i o n . P re pa re s o l u t i o n ( B ) . Add (B ) t o
( A) w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous.
M ix ( A ) i n advance by d i s p e r s i n g hy d r o xy e t hy l c e l l u l o s e i n
Hair Condit ioning Gel
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A M in er a l o i l
A r 1 as ol ve 200
B r i j 9 3
B Wate r, de i on i zed
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
Sorbo
F o r e s t a l 1
11 . o o
20.00
6 . 0 0
49.60
5 .00
7 .0 0
1 .40
Procedure :
Cool t o 60C and add make-up w at er .
S t i r
u n t i l u n i f o r m and p ou r
w h i l e s t i l l f l u i d .
SOURCE: IC1 Su r fa c ta n t s : Su g g e s te d Formulations
Heat (A) and
( B )
t o 9OC. Add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t le s t i r r i n g .
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Hair
Care
Products 219
Hair Cream
( 0 )
L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( #70)
I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e
Squal ane
N i
k k o l WCB
Po ly oxye thy l ene (6300) Monos teara te
G l y c e r y l M on os te ar at e ( S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g Type)
P o l y o x y e t h y l e ne ( 2 0) C e t y l E t h e r
(W) Aj idew N - 5 0
Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure :
1 . Heat 0 ) and (W) t o 80C.
2 . Add (W)
t o
(0)
s l ow l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
3 .
F i n i s h s t i r r i n g a t 40C.
pH: 7.3
V i s c o s i t y : 900 c ps
Hair Tonic
0 ) Pyro te r GPI -25
Py ro te r CPI -40
E t h y l A l c o h o l
(95%)
L-Menthol
Camphor
Methy lpa raben
Perfume
(W) A j id ew T-50
Water
Wt
3 8 . 0
3 . 0
0 . 5
0 . 5
0 . 1
4 . 1
2 . 9
3 . 0
4 7 . 9
q . s .
t
2.7
0 . 3
5 0 0
0.4
0 . 0 5
0 . 0 5
q . s .
4 . 0
4 2 .5
Procedure :
1 . D i s s o l v e ( 0 ) a nd (W) se p a ra te l y a t room te m p e ra tu r e t o b e
2 . Add (W) t o 0)w i t h s t i r r i n g .
c l e a r s o l u t i ons .
pH: 7 .5
V i s c o s i t y : 5 c ps
SOURCE:
A j i n o m o t o
U S A ,
I n c . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
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22 Cosmetic
and
Toiletry
Formulations
Hair Dressing
W/O Cold Process
I q r e d ien s
Phase
A :
Ce ty l D ime th ic one Copo lyo l ( A b i l EM-90)
M i n e r a l O i l
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g os o ft CT)
C e ty l Dimeth ico ne ( A b i l Wax 9801)
Cyc lo m e th i co n e (Ab i l 0 8839)
Po l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l an G I 34)
Ce te a ry l I son o no a no a te (T e g o so f t C I )
Ce ty l Octanoate (T ego so f t CO)
F ra g ra n ce
Phase B:
Water
Pr op yl en e G1 yc ol
Quatern ium-80 (Abi 1 Quat 3270)
G1 y c e r i n
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
2 . 0
7 . 3
3 . 0
1 . o
5 . 0
1 . o
1 . 5
0 . 8
Q.S.
7 2 .9
3 . 0
0 . 5
1 . 2
0 . 8
Q.S.
Procedure :
1 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r .
2 . D i s s o l v e t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e i n t o t h e w a t e r. Add t h e G l y c e r i n
and P ro py le ne G l y c o l . M ix u n t i l c l e a r .
3 .
Add t h e p r e s e r va t i ve s and Q ua te rn iu m-80 t o t h e wa te r p ha se .
M ix u n t i l f u l l y d i s pe r se d.
4. Add Phase B t o Phase A s l o w l y w i t h s o f t p r o p e l l e r m i x in g .
Ma in ta in , a t a l l t im es , a c reamy appearance . 5 . Homogen ize.
Hair Styl ing Gel
I n q r e d i e n t s : ?&&
(Ab i 1 OSW-12) 22 .2 0
Cycl ometh icone (and D i meth i cono l (and ) D i meth i cone
Pheny l T r i me th icon e ( A b i l AV-20)
3.00
Cycl ometh i cone (A bi B 8839) 3.00
Pro p y le n e
G 1
ycol 42.00
He xy l ene G1 y c o l 4.55
Water
22 . o o
G1 y c e r i n
1
. o o
P r e s e r v a t i es
Q. S .
P o l y a c r y l a m i d e ( an d ) C13-14 I s o p a r a f f i n ( an d)
Lau r e th-7 2.25
Procedure :
When a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e combined, c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l
v i s c o s i t y i nc re as es . F i n a l pr od uc t i s a t r a n s l u c e n t , c o l o r l e s s
g e l .
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.
:
S ugges t ed Fo r m u la t i ons
Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d er , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s .
Formula BAM-5-43
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Hair
Care
Products 221
Hai r l oss t o Cont r ol Gel Concent r at e
I nqr edi ent s :
Met hacr y l oyl Et hyl Eet a i ne/ Met hacr y l at es Copol ymer
Wat er
Di met hi cone Abi 350
Phenyl Tr i met hi cone Abi l AV- 20)
Cycl omet hi cone and) Di met hi conol and) Di met hi cone
Abi
1
OSW 12)
Pr opyl ene G1 ycol *
Hexyl ene Gl ycol
Pr eser vat i ves
Fr agr ance
Pol yacr y l am de and)
C13- 14
I soper af f i n and) Laur et h- 7
w/w
1. 50
20. 00
4. 00
4. 00
25.00
35. 00
7 . 5 0
Q S
Q S
3. 00
Pr ocedur e:
When al l i ngr edi ent s ar e combi ned, cont i nue m xi ng unt i l c l ear .
Vi scos i t y w 1 1 devel op af t er m xi ng.
*Et hanol can be subst i t ut ed f or par t o f t he pr opy l ene gl ycol
i f a l i ght er pr oduc t i s needed.
Bl end t he i ngr edi ent s t oget her
i n
t he or der gi ven wi t h m xi ng.
I r i descent Hai r Gel Concent r at e
I nnr edi ent s :
Cycl omet hi cone and)
Abi 1 OSW 12)
Phenyl Tr i met hi cone
Pr opyl ene Gl ycol
Hexyl ene G1 ycol
Wat er
Pr eser vat i ves
Pol yacr y l am de and)
Pr ocedur e:
D met hi conol and) Di me
Abi l AV- 20)
C13- 14 I sopar af f i n and
hi cone
27. 27
4. 55
40. 93
4. 55
20. 45
Laur et h- 7 2 . 25
Q S
Add t he
i
ngr edi ent s
i
n or der , m xi ng we1 1 bet ween addi t i ons.
When al l i ngr edi ent s a re combi ned, cont i nue m xi ng unt i l c l ear
and i r i des c ent .
For mul at on EAM- 3- 5
SOURCE:
Gol dschm dt Chem cal Corp . : Suggest ed For mul at i ons
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222 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Pomade
High l u s t e r h a i r pomade based on n a t u ra l S imch in and Shebu.
P a t i o n i c SSL and R it a p an DL p r o v i d e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f o r h e a l t h y
1o o k i ng h a i
.
I n g r e d i e n t s :
w
1 M i n e r a l
O i
1 -
90
w t .
5.00
2 . S im ch in R e f i n e d ( J o j o b a O i l ) 2 .0 0
3. P e t r o l a t u m
85.70
4. Shebu (Shea B u t t e r )
2 .00
5. L a n o l i n USP ( L a n o l i n ) 2 . 0 0
6. Ri ta pa n DL (Pan the nol DL) 0.50
7. Pa t i o n i c SSL (Sod iu m S te a ro y l L a c t y l a t e ) 2 .40
8 .
Frag rance
0.20
9 .
G lyd a n t 0 .2 0
F u n c t i o n
L u s t e r
Emol 1
i
n t
Ho ld
L u s t e r
Ho ld
H e a l t h
M o i s t u r e
Odor
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure:
B le n d i t e m s 1-7 a t
7 0 C .
S t i r u n t i l un i f o rm . Cool t o 40C and
add remai n i ng i erns. F i 11 i t o c o n t a i n e r s .
Re f .
N o .
118-173
Hair Pomade
Q u a l i t y h a i r pomade fo rm u l a te d w i t h S im ch in and Shebu f o r
l u s t e r . P a t i o n i c I SL p r o v i d e s m o i s t u r i z a t i o n .
I n a r e d i e n t s :
1 . R it aw ax ( L a n o l i n A l c o h o l )
2 . M i n e r a l O i l
3. S im ch in R e fi ne d ( J o j o b a O i l )
4 . Shebu (Shea B u t t e r )
5 . Pe t r o l atum
6 .
R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l )
7.
P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l
8 .
G lyd a n t
9 .
Frag rance
-
Jergens Type R-30318
1.50
5 .0 0
2.00
1
. o o
84.60
3.00
L a c t y l a t e ) 2 .5 0
0.20
0.20
Functi n
Fee 1
Spread
L u s t e r
L u s t e r
Spread
L u s t e r
M o i s t u r e
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Odor
Compounding Procedure:
B le n d i t e m s 1-7 and h ea t u n t i l c l e a r . C ool w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l
50C. Add p er fu me and p r e s e r v a t i v e . F i l l h o t w h i l e m ix i n g .
Re f .
N o . 118-178
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu la t ion s
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Hair Care Products 223
Hai r Relaxer - Glycer ine
G l y c e r i n e based h a i r r e l a x e r w h ic h m o i s t u r i z e s h a i r . E mu ls io n
s t a b i l i t y based on R i ta c h o l 2000.
I n g r e d i e n t s :
1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l en d )
2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 W t .
3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r al O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l )
4 .
P e t r o l a t u m
5 . R i t a h y d r o x ( H y d r o xy l a te d L a n o l i n )
6 . Propy lpa raben
7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l )
8 . G l v c e r i n e
9 , D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water
10 .Me thy lpa raben
11.Sod ium Hydrox ide (25% S o l u t i o n )
w/w
5 . 0 0
7 .00
2 .0 0
7.50
0 . 5 0
0 . 1 3
2 .00
6 .0 0
29.67
0 . 2 0
10 . 00
Func t
i
n
Emul s i i r
Spread
Fee l
V i s c o s i t y
S ta b i 1i y
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Emul s i
f i
r
M o i s t u r e
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Re1 a x i ng
-------
Compounding Procedure:
I n s e p a r a t e be ak er h e a t i t e m s 8-10 t o 85C. Add t h i s w a te r
m i x t u r e t o o i l m i x t u r e and m ix a t l ow speed f o r 1 m i n ut e . Add
c o ld wa ter t o co o l i n g p an an d co o l t o 65C. Add Sodium Hyd ro x i d e
s o l u t i o n and m i x . Then a dd i c e t o c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 25C.
N ot e: I n v e r s i o n w i l l o cc ur d u r i n g m i x i n g .
Combine i t e m s 1 -7 i n K i t c h e n A id m i x e r b o wl a nd h e a t t o 80C.
R e f .
No.
118-168
Hai r Relaxer - Glycol
In q r ed i e n t s :
1 .
R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l en d )
2 .
M i n e r a l O i l NF
3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l
O i l
and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l )
4 .
P e t r o l a t u m
5 .
R i t a h y d r o x ( H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n )
6 . P ropy lpa raben
7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o ho l )
8 . Pro p y le n e G l yco l
9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
10 .Me thy lpa raben
1 l . S o d i u m H y d r ox i d e (25% S o l u t i o n )
w/w
15.00
17.00
2 .00
17.50
0 . 5 0
0 .13
2 .00
6 .00
2 9 .6 7
0 . 2 0
10.00
F u n c t i o n
E m u l s i f i e r
Emol l i n t
Spread
Spread
S t a b i
1
i y
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Emul s i i e r
Humectant
P r e s e r v a t
i
e
A c t i e
- - - - - - - -
Compounding Procedure:
Weigh and m e l t i t ems 1 -7 a t 80C i n K i t c h e n A i d m i xe r b o w l .
I n se p a ra te b e ake r h e a t i t e m s 8-10 t o 85C. Add wa te r ph ase t o
o i l phase and m i x f o r one m i n ut e . A dd c o o l i n g w a te r t o m i x e r
c o o l i n g pan and co o l t o 65C. Add Sod ium Hydrox i de , th en add
i c e t o c o o l i n g pan, and t h e n c o o l t o 25C w i t h c o n s t an t a g i t a t i o n .
N ot e i n v e r s i o n d u r i n g c o o l i n g p r oc e ss .
R e f. No. 118-169
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C or p. : Suggested Fo rm ul at io ns
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224 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Sculpting Cream
T h i s cream g i v es s h i ne t o t h e h a i r w i t h o u t b e i ng gr ea sy
and makes h a i r easy t o s t y l e and manage. The Geah lene g i ve s
v i s c o s i t y t o t h e c ream and h e lp s h o l d h a i r i n p l ac e . I n c l u s i o n
o f w heat p r o t e i n adds body and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s .
In nr ed ie nt /T ra de Name: Weiqht%
A Deio n ize d Water 62 .86
So l ub l e Wheat P r o t e i n / T r i t i o l 1 . o o
Sod ium C h l or id e 0 .80
Pantheno l /DL-Pantheno l 0 .10
D i
azo1 i i n y l U rea /Ge rma ll
I 1
0.30
P V P / P V P
K-30
1 . o o
B Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 0.70
Methy lpa raben 0 .20
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l 5 . 0 0
C P o l y g l y c e r o l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( an d) C e t y l D im et hi co ne
Cop olyo l (and ) Hexyl La ur at e/ Ab i l WE-09 5 .0 0
M i n e r a l
O i l
(and ) Hyd rogenated Bu ty lene / E thy lene /
Sty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Eth y len e/
Pr opy len e/S tyr ene Copolymer//Geahlene 750
20.00
Phenyl
T r i
me thi cone/Dow Co rn i ng 556 3. 00
Fragrance 0 .04
M ix p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l u n i fo r m . Heat p a r t B t o 60C w i t h
Procedure :
g e n t l e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add p a r t
B
t o p a r t A w i t h m i x in g .
I n a s e pa r at e c o n t a i n e r , p re mi x p a r t C . S l o w l y add p a r t s A and
B
t o p a r t
C
i n s ma ll i nc re me nt s w i t h h i g h shear m i x i ng u n t i l
u n i f o r m .
SOURCE:
Penreco : Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ion
Hair Condit ioner
P a r t A :
Dei o n i zed Water
90.60
Busan 1504 0. 10
Pantheno l
0 . 25
Al oe Vera 200X 0. 05
D i so d i urn EDTA
0 .05
C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l
&
C e t e a r a t h - 2 0 1 - 1 0
S t e a r y l A l c o h o l
&
Cetr imon ium Bromide
5 .0 0
Jo jo b a O i l 0.30
Pa r t B :
Acetamide MEA & Lactamide
MEA
1 . o o
Hydro1yzed Wheat P r o t e i n & Wheat 01i osa cc har i des 1 .25
Sodium PCA 0.30
Procedure :
and m ix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . M a i n t a i n t e mp e ra t ur e a t 7 and add
r e m a i n i n g P a r t
A
i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown, e n s u r i n g t h a t
each i s c o m p le t el y b le nd ed i n t o b a t ch b e f o r e t h e a d d i t i o n
o f
t h e n e x t i n g r e d i e n t . M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. Add P a r t B
i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d er shown and m i x u n t i l each i s d i s so lv e d .
Cool w h i l e m i x i n g t o
35C.
SOURCE: Buckman L a b or a t or i e s, I n c .
:
Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ion
Heat D I wa te r t o 75C. Add Busan 1 504 p re se rv a t i v e t o wa te r
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Hair
Care Products
225
Hair Straightener
Formula :
Phase
A :
Dei o n i zed Water
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l
Phase B :
Pol awax
P e t r o l a t u m ( P r o t o p e t 1s)
Hydrogena ted Po ly i sobu tene
Phase
C :
Sodium Hydroxide (25% S o l )
Phase D :
Pro p y le n e G l y co l ( a nd )
D i
azo1 i i n y l U rea (a nd )
Methy lparaben (and) Propy lparaben
56.00
2 . 0 0
15.00
8 . 0 0
10.00
8 . 0 0
1
. o o
Procedure :
Combine and heat water phase
A
and o i l phase
B
s e p a r a t e l y
t o 75C.
A d d
t h e o i l phase t o t h e wa te r phase w i t h r a p i d m ix i n g .
Cool t o
4 0 C
b e f o r e a d d i n g C and D . Cool t o room temp. and
package.
Conditioning Styl ing Gel
P a r t
A :
Water, D . I .
Merquat 100
P a r t
B :
61 and ol
B r i
j
A r l a t o n e G
P r op y le ne g l y c o l
G l y c e r i n e
P a r t
C:
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i v e and c o l o r
Procedure :
M i x P a r t A
Then, add Pa r
m i x tu r e i s un
P a r t C a t 53C
SOURCE: Wi t c o
Formu
Percent
q . s . t o 100
2.00
10.00
21 . o o
10 .00
8.00
7 .0 0
9 . s .
q . s .
and B i n s ep a ra te v es s el s , h e a t i n g each t o 9OC.
B
t o P a r t
A
w i t h mo de ra te a g i t a t i o n . When t h e
f or m b eg i n t o c o o l , c o n t i n u i n g a g i t a t i o n . Add
and co n t i n u e co o l i n g . Pou r a t 50C.
Co rp . : Pe t ro l a tu m S p e c i a l t i e s G ro up: Sug ge sted
a t
i
ns
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226 Cosmetic
and Toiletry Formulations
High Petrolatum Mousse
Aerosol
O i l Phase:
P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r ol a t u m
Crodamol PMP
Volpo 3
Water Phase A :
Dei o n i zed Water
Carbopol 941
10% Sodium H ydrox ide S o l u t i o n
Water Phase 8 :
G1 y c e r i ne
Vo lpo
s-10
Germaben I 1
15.00
5 .0 0
1.20
69.30
0.13
0 .5 2
5 .0 0
2.85
1 .0 0
Procedure :
Water Phase
A :
C harge a v e s s el w i t h w a t e r and d u s t i n t h e ca rb om er . S t a r t
he at in g- to 80C. When co mpl e te ly d i spe rs ed, add t h e sod ium
h y d r ox i d e s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g .
Water Phase 0 :
When u n i f o r m add t o Water Phase A .
O i l Phase:
Combine a l l components o f t h e o i l ph ase, m i x and h e a t t o
When un i f o r m add t h e combined wa te r phases s lo w l y w h i l e m ix
Co n t i n u e m i x i n g t o room te m p e ra tu re .
F i l l R a t i o :
Combine components i n a sep ara te vesse l and mix , hea t t o
Conc ent r a te 4 .0%, P r op e l l an t A-46 96%.
Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mousse
80C.
80C.
ng.
Pe rce n t
Water 57.80
D i sod i um E D T A 0 . 2 0
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 10.00
Avocado O i l 5 . 0 0
D im e th i co n e 2 .0 0
Ce te a r y l A lc oho l (and) Ce tea re th - 20 (Promu lgen D) 5.00
Jo jo b a O i l
1
. o o
Mink
O i l
1 .0 0
Ca s to r O i l 5 .0 0
O c ty l d o d e c y l S te a ro y l S te a ra te (Ce ra p h y l 8 47 ) 1 0 .0 0
Quatern ium 26 (Ce raph y l 65) 2 .00
Germaben I 1 1
. o o
Procedure :
80C. Cool t o 50C and add t h e Germaben
1 1 .
Cool t o room temp-
e r a t u r e a n d f i l l . 95% concen t ra t e /5% Pr op e l la n t A -46.
Appl i a t i on:
f o r 1 5-20 m i n ut e s . R i n s e w e l l .
SOURCE: Wi tc o Corp. : Pe tro leu m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested
Combine a l l i n g r ed ie n t s excep t t h e Germaben
I 1
and he a t t o
A pp ly s m a l l amount t o w et h a i r . C over h a i r w i t h h o t t o w e l
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Hair Care Products
227
Hot Oi l Condi t ioner
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Cyc lometh i cone (and) Dim eth i cono l (and)
D i
meth icone
( A b i l OSW 12) 25 .0
Dimeth icone
(100
c s t )
Cyc l omethi cone
Ph e n y l T r im e th i co n e (Ab i l A V
2 0 )
Fragrance
Procedure :
Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r de r w i t h m i x i ng .
50 .0
2 2 .0
3 . 0
Q . S .
Hot Oil Super Conditioner
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Cyc lometh icone (and) Dim eth i cono l (and) Dimeth icone
( A b i l OSW 12) 2 5 . 0
Dimeth icone (100 c s t ) 42.0
Cyc lometh icone 30 .0
P he ny l T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l
A V
20) 2 .5
Quatern ium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474) 0 .5
Fragrance Q.S.
Procedure :
Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x in g .
Soft Glossing Spritz
I na r ed i n t s :
Pheny l T r ime th icone ( A b i l AV-20)
Cyc lo m e th i co n e (Ab i l B 8839)
D im e th i co n e (Ab i l 1000)
Dim e th i co n e (Ab i l
100 )
Cyclometh icone (and) Dimeth icone (and) Dimeth icone
( A b i
1
OSW-12)
Benzophenone-3
Fragrance
Procedure :
Combine
Caut
i
n
SOURCE: Go
w
10.0
22.7
2 .5
1 4 .5
5 0 . 0
0 . 3
Q . S .
a l l i n g re d i e n ts i n o rd er
-
m i x in g w e l l
T ra ce s o f w a t e r
w i l l
cause t u r b i d i t y .
dschmi d t Chemical Corp : Suggested Formul a t i
ns
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228 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Intensive Conditioning Pomade
H ig h o i l , m o i s t u r i z i n g pomade f o r c o n t r o l o f d r y , o ver wor ke d
h a i r .
I n q r e d i e n t s :
1 . Pa ra f f i n (5 9 -6 O C)
2 .
P e t r o l a t u m
F u n c t i o n
10 .70 Con t ro l
48 .97 Moi s t u r e
3 .
M i n e r a l O i l
30.00 Moi s t u r e
4 . F o r l a n L ( R . I . T . A . B l en d ) 5 . 0 0
Shine
5 . R i t a c h o l ( R . I . T . A . B l en d ) 3. 00
Sh ine
6. P a t la c I L ( I s o s t e a r y l L a c t a t e )
2 . 0 0 Re p a i r
7. Fra gra nce #163-478
0.30 Odor
8 . P r e s e r v a t i v e
0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure:
Mix a l l i te ms exce pt per fume a t 65C. Coo l t o 40C and add
p er fum e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . L e t s e t up i n p r o pe r c o n t a i n e r .
R e f . No. 118-122
Light Oil Free Conditioner
B a s i c c o n d i t i o n e r t o p r o v i d e good combing and c o n d i t i o n i n g
t o a l l h a i r t y p e s .
I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n
1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
2 .
Rita-STAC (S te a r t r im o n iu m Ch lo r i d e ) 1 .5 0 Co n d i t i o n e r
3 . R i t a p r o 165 ( R . I . T . A . B l e nd ) 2 . 0 0 S t a b i l i t y
4 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l )
2 . 0 0
R e - f a t t i ng
5 . Ri tawax ALA (R . I .T .A . B lend ) 0 . 5 0 Sh in e
6 . F ra g ra n ce - Sa lon #169-122 0. 30 Odor
7. Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure:
165F. Add t o wa te r a nd mi x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Coo l t o 1 20F and
add pe r fume and p re se rv a t i v e .
SOURCE: R. I .T .A . Co rp . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
93.67 __---------
Hea t wa te r t o 1 80F. I n se p a ra te b ea ker h e a t i t e m s 2-5 t o
R e f .
N o .
118-115
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Hair Care
Products
229
Intensive Hair Condit ioner
An i n t e n s i v e c o n d i t i o n e r w i t h n o u r i s h i n g o i l t o make h a i r
more hea l thy .
I n a r e d i e n t s: f u n c t i o n
2 . Po lyqu ta
3000
(Po l yq u a te rn iu m -1 0) 0 .50 An t i - S ta t i c ,T h i ck e n e r
3 . M e th ylp a ra b e n 0 .15 P r e se rv a t i ve
4 .
R ita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1 .5 0 A n t i - S t a t i c ,
5 . Rita-CTAC (Ce t r im o n iu m Ch lo r i d e ) 2 .0 0 A n t i - S ta t i c ,
6.
Ri tacho l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l en d ) 8 .0 0 E m u l s i f i e r
7. Wheat Germ O i l 1 . O O No u r i sh i n g
O i
1 -He a l t h
8 .
Tocophero l
0 .20 --------
9. Propy lpa raben
0 . 1 0 P r e s e r v a t i e
10.Kathon
CG
0 . 03
P r e s e r v a t i v e
11. D i s t i 1 ed /D ei on i zed Water 2 .00 _ _ _ _ _ _ - _
12 .F rag rance q . s .Odor
Compounding Procedure:
paraben. Heat t o 60C. Add i t em s 4 and 5 and heat t o 70C. Heat
i t e m s 6-9 t o 70-75C and a dd w i t h m i x i n g . Wh i l e m i x i n g , co o l t o
45C and add items 10-12.
1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 8 4. 52
----------
C o n d i t i o n e r
Condi t i ner
D i sp e rse Po l yq u ta
3000
i n wa te r . When d ispe rsed , add Me thy l -
Re f .
N o .
116-168
S a lo n S t r en g t h H a i r C o n d i t i o n e r
B al an ce d c o n d i t i o n i n g a nd r e p a i r a r e a c hi ev e d t hr o u g h
p r op er b a la n ce o f P o ly q ut a and e m o l l i e n t a d d i t i v e s .
I n a r e d i e n t s :
1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l )
2 . M i n e r a l O i l 9NF
3 . R i t a
SA
( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l )
4. R i t a l a n C ( R . I . T . A . Blend )
5 . R i ta-CTAC (Cet r im on ium C h l or id e)
6 . Po ly qu ta 3000 (Po lyqua tern ium-10 )
7 .
D i
st
i
1ed/Dei o ni zed Water
8 .
G l y c e r i n e
9 .
S o r b i t o l (70% S o l n . )
1Q .S up er sa t AWS-4 (PEG-20 Hyd ro ge na te d
L an ol i n )
1 l . K a t h o n
CG
12 .F rag rance
%w/wF u n c t i o n
2 .0 0 R e - f a t t i n g
2 .00 Sh ine
0 .5 0 R e - f a t t i n g
1
O O
Shine, Combing
2.00 Condi t i on i ng
0.50 Combing
2 .0 0 Moi s t u r e
0 . 5 0 M o i s t u r e
1.00 Shine
0 . 0 2 P r e s e r v a t i v e
0.25 Odor
88.23 ----------
Compounding Procedure:
Hea t wa te r t o 70C. Add i t e m 6 and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s
8-10 w i t h mix in g and heat t o 75-80C. Hear i te ms 1-5 t o 65C. Add
t o w a te r m i x t u r e . C ool t o 50C a nd add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e .
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions
Ref.
No.
119-25
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230 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Leave-On Scalp & Hair Conditioner
A dab o f l e ave -o n sc a lp and h a i r co n d i t i o n e r massaged i n t o
t h e h a i
r
and sca lp , w i 1 1 p r o v i d e c o n d i t i o n i n g a nd manageabi 1
i y
t o t h e h a i r w h i l e p r o v i d i n g m o i s t u r i z a t i o n
o f
t h e s c a l p .
Ph os ph ol ip id GLA
w i l l
h e lp m a in ta i n a h e a l t h y s ca l p and m in im -
i z e i t c h and s c a l i n g caus ed b y e x c e s s iv e d r yn e s s . I t i s a l s o
a d e l i v e r y s ys tem f o r gamma l i n o l e n i c a c i d , an e s s e n t i a l f a t t y
a c i d f o r n o rm a l i z in g s k i n .
I n q r e d i e n t s :
Water
H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e
G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e
C e t y l A l c o h o l
Monaquat
S L - 5
Phosphol
i
i d GLA
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Wt.%
9 0 .2
0 . 5
1 . 5
5 . 5
0 . 3
a . s .
1 . a
Procedure :
a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m ai n i ng i n g r e d i e n t s p l u s p r e s e r v a t i v e and
heat t o 65-7OC. S t i r coo l t o 40C and add f rag ranc e , c o l o r ,
e t c . p a cka g e .
Charge w a t e r , s l o w l y add h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e w i t h good
Appearance: W h i t e p e a r l e d l o t i o n
V i s c o s i t y : 2500 C P
pH: 6.5
Forrnul a F-653
Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse
I Water
Amp homer
A m i nomethyl Propanol
Dow C or ni ng 929 Emu lsi on
Phosphol i i d EFA
SD3A Alcohol
I I . H y d r o x y e t h y 1 C e l l u l o s e
Water
B Y
Weight
37 * 35
3.75
0 . 6 0
0 . 4 0
0 . 6 0
10 .00
0.30
37.00
1 I I . P r o p e l l a n t 10 .00
Procedure :
P re p a re Pa r t I and I 1 s e p a r a t e l y . To p r e p a r e P a r t 11, c a r e -
f u l l y s p r i n k l e h yd ro xy et hy l c e l l u l o s e i n t o w ate r w i t h good
a g i t a t i o n . Heat may be a p p l i e d t o h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . B len d
P a r t I 1 t o I nd t h e n a e r o s o l i z e .
Formula
F-554
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Hair Care Products
231
Light
Oil
Free Conditioner
L i g h t o i l f r e e w i t h a to uc h o f f oam ing t o c l e a n l y cond-
i t i o n h a i r t o t h e ends.
1
2 .
3 .
4.
5.
6 .
7 .
8.
9 .
I n q r e d i e n t s :
?~J&
F u n c t i o n
G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K (Su cro se Cocoa te ) 2 .0 0 Co n d i t i o n i n g , M i l d
G r i 1 l o t e n
PSE
141G (Sucrose
S t e a r a t e ) 4 . 0 0
R i t a C e t e a r y l 7 0/ 30 ( C e t e a r y l
A1 coho1
)
2.50
PEG-20 Ce te ar y l Alc oho l 0 .50
Pro p y le n e G l yco l 1 - 0 0
Poly quta 400 (Po lyquate rn ium-10) 1 .50
G l y c e r i n e 3 . 0 0
D i s t i 11 ed/De i on i zed Water 85 .1 7
Fraa ranc e-P ert Tvee 189-724 0. 30
.
l 0 . K a t h o n CG
1 1 . C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l n . )
C l e a n i n g , M i l d
R e - f a t t i g
Combing
Humectant
Combi ng , S ty1e
M o i s t u r e
Odor
- - -_ - - - -
0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e
9 ,s . pH Co n t ro l
Compounding Procedure:
Hea t 1 -4 t o 70C. Se p a ra te l y d i s p e r se i t e m 6 i n wa te r . Then
add i tem s 5 and 7 . Hea t t o 80-85C. Then add i t ems 1 -4 t o m i x tu r e .
Cool t o 40C and add pe r fume and p r es e r v a t i v e . A d j us t pH w i t h
C i t r i c A c i d t o pH 5 . 0 .
Re f . N o . 118-121
Aloe Vera Hai r Condi t ioner (L ight )
A
l i g h t s t r e n g t h c o n d i t i o n e r s p e c i a l l y f o r mu la te d f o r
n or ma l h a i r . Adds s heen t o h a i r .
I n a r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n
1
. D i s t i 11ed/Dei on i zed Water 94.4 7 - - - -
2 . R i t a l o e 200M (A loe Vera Ge l ) 0 .25 Sh ine
3 .
R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l )
2 . 0 0
Emul s i
f
i r , T h i cken e r
4 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 . 0 0 Emul s i f i r , Th i ckene r
5 . Ri ta -STAC (S tea r t r imon ium Ch lo r i de )
1 .50
C o n d i t i o n e r ,
A n t i - s t a t i c
6 . S im ch in R e f i n e d ( J o j o b a O i l ) 0 . 7 5 C o n d i t i o n e r , S hi ne
7. Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e
8 . Fragrance q
.
s .Odor
Compounding Procedure:
Heat i tems 1 and 2 t o 70C. Heat i te m s 3-6 t o 65-70C and add
w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o nt in u e m i x i n g u n t i l b a t c h r ea ch es 40-45C. Add
Kathon and Fragrance.
SOURCE: R . I . T . A , Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu l a t i ons
R e f . No. 116-174
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232
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Low Cost Relaxer
A l ow er c o s t r e l a x e r w i t h r educed o i l phase m a t e r i a l s .
Laneto-100 p r o v i d e s s c a lp p r o t e c t i o n f ro m i r r i t a t i o n .
I n g r e d i e n t s :
1 R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d )
2 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l )
3 .
R i t o l e t h - 1 0 ( O l et h -1 0)
4 . P e t r o l a t u m
5 .
M i n e r a l O i l
70 w t .
6 . Laneto-100 (PEG-75 L an ol in )
7 . P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l
8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
9 . Sodium Hydroxide (25% S o l n . )
%w/w
1 5 . 0 0
1 . o o
2 . 0 0
8 . 0 0
1 0 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
2 . 0 0
5 2 . 5 0
9 . 0 0
F u n c t i o n
Emul s i f
i
r
Emul s i f i r
Emul s i f i r
V i s c o s i t y
Spread
Fee l
M o i s t u r e
Re la xe r
--------
Compounding Procedure:
Combine i tems 1 -5 and hea t t o 60C. I n a sepa ra te co n t a i ne r ,
hea t i tem s 6-8 and hea t t o 60C. Add t o o i l phase and m ix a t l ow
speed. Coo l t o 45C and add Sod ium Hyd rox i de so l u t i o n . Cont inue
m ix i n g a n d f i l l t o j a r s a t 30C.
R e f . No. 120-26
Extra Stable Relaxer
Very c o s t e f f i c i e n t , s t a b l e r e l a x e r f o r m u l a t i o n wh ich i s
easy t o p r o c e s s .
I n q r e d i e n t s :
1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 1 0 . 0 0
2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 W t . 16.00
3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l
O i l
and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0
4 . P e t r o l a t u m
1 7 . 0 0
5
R i t a h y d r o x ( H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n ) 0 . 6 0
6 . R i t a S A ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0
7 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 Stearate) 1 . 5 0
8 . G l y c e r i n e 6 . 00
9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 3 4. 70
10.Methy lparaben
0 . 2 0
11.Sod ium Hydrox ide (20% S o l u t i o n ) 1 0 . 0 0
F u n c t i o n
E m u l s i f i e r
Spread
Fee l
T e x t u r e
S t a b i 1 i y
Emul s i f i r
S tab i 1i y
M o i s t u r e
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Re1 ax er
-------
-
Compounding Procedure:
Combine items
1 - 7
i n o r b i t a l m i xe r a t 80C. Combine i t e m s 8-10
a t 80C and add t o o i l m i x t u r e . Coo l t o 65C. Add Sodium Hydrox id e
s o l u t i o n w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool i n i c e b a t h t o 25C. Homogenize
i
necessary
t o
f u r t h e r i mprove s t a b i l i t y .
Re f .
No.
117-21A
SOURCE: R. I . T . A . Co rp . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
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Hair
Care
Products
233
Medium Hold, 80 VOC Pump Hair Spray
Dia fo rm e r
Z - A
p r o v i d e s a medium h o l d i n t h i s c l e a r , w at er
w h i t e s p r a y . I t a l s o r ed uc es s t a t i c and i mp ro ve s m a n a g e a b i l i t y
when t h e h a i r i s combed. I t s c l e a r , f l e x i b l e f i l m g i v e s a
n a t ur a l l o ok i n g h o ld w h i l e o f f e r i n g e x c e l l e n t c u r l r e t e n t i o n .
I n g r e d i e n t s
:
Phase
A :
D i
aformer Z - A
Dow Corning
190
Monamide 716
SD 40 A l c o h o l
Fragrance
Dei o n i zed Water
w/w
5.00
0 . 2 0
0 . 1 0
75.00
0 . 1 0
Q S
Procedure :
Add Diaformer Z - A t o a l c oh o l , m i x i n g w e l l . Add w at er w i t h
m i x i n g . Add r e m a i ni n g i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g ,
P r o p e r t
i
s :
Formulat ion CHF-12
Appearance: C r y s t a l c l e a r , w a te r w h i t e l i q u i d
55
VOC Pump Hair Spray
T h i s
55%
VOC
h a i r s p ra y i n c o r p o r a t e s D i af o rm e r
2 -400 .
T h i s
deodor i zed po lymer i s w e l l s u i t e d t o l i g h t l y f ra g r an c ed
p r o d u c t s .
I t
p r o v i d e s a medium h o l d i n t h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r ,
wa te r wh i t e sp ra y . Ve lsa n P8-3 a c t s a a n on -g re asy su p e r fa t t i n g
a g e n t .
I n a r e d i e n t s r
Phase A :
D i aformer 2-400
SD
40 A lco h o l
Velsan P8-3
Fragrance
Deio n ize d Water
4 .0 0
40 . 00
0 5 0
0 . 0 5
Q S
P r o c e d u r e :
m i x i n g .
A d d
r e m a in i n g i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g .
P r o p e r t i s :
Add Diaformer 2-400 t o a l c o h o l , m i x i n g we1
1 .
Add wa te r w i t h
Appearance: C r y s t a l c l e a r , w a te r w h i t e l i q u i d
Formulat ion CHF-14
SOURCE:
Sandoz
Cherni c a l
s
Corp.
:
Suggested Formul
a t i
ons
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234 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Medium Strength Hair Conditioner
C o n d i t i o n i n g d es ig ne d t o p r o v i d e n o u r i s h i n g and c om bing
b e n e f i t s w h i l e l e a v i n g a c l e an f e e l i n t h e wet mode due t o
Dimethy l Quat .
I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n ct i o n
1 . R it a-SBC (S te a ra l ko n ium Ch lo r i d e ) 1 .1 4 Co n d i t i o n e r
2 .
Rita-CTAC (Ce t r imon ium Ch lo r i de ) 0 .48 Co nd i t i o ne r
3 . R it a- CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 .8 5 R e - f a t t i n g
4 . C i t r i c A c i d @ 100% 0.09 pH Cont ro l
5 . Dim ethy l Stea ram ine (Adogen MA-108) 0 .13 C o nd i t io n er
7. Promois
WK-HQ
(Hyd roxyp ropy l
t r i oni urn Hyd ro 1yzed Kera t i )
0 . 0 5
Body
8 .
R i t a l o e 200M (A loe Ve ra Ge l ) 0 . 0 5 Body
9 . Ri ta p a n D L ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 0 .05 Body
1 0 .P ro p y le n e G l yco l
0 . 5 0
Clean Fee l
11
.
H yd ro xy et hy l C e l l u l o se (Na t ro so l
250 HHR) 1 .00 V i scos i t y
12 .Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e
13.Dow C or ni ng 2-7224 0. 40 Combing
14.Dow Co rn i ng 344 F l u i d 0.1 7 Combing
15. Fragranc e 0 . 2 5 Odor
Compounding Procedure:
t o 70C, add i te m 5 and mix
20
min . Add ano the r 10% o f t h e wa te r
a t
room temp era t u re and co nt in ue mix in g 20 min . To rema in ing
75% o f wa ter add i te ms 7 ,8 and 9 a t room temp era t u re . Add i t e m
10 and s l o w ly s i f t i n i t e m 1 1. A g i t a t e 1 5 m in . w h i l e h e a t i n g
b a t c h t o 35C. When b a t c h t h i c k e n s , i n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n f o r u p
t o 60 m in . u n t i l u n i f o rm . Add i t e m s 12 ,13 a nd 14, co n t i n u e
m i x i n g . Then add q u a t e r n a r y / f a t t y a l c o h o l phase ( i t e m s 1 - 6 )
and f r a g r a n c e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .
6 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 94. 81 - - - - - - - - -
To 15% o f t o t a l wa te r a t 65C add se p a ra te l y i t e m s 1 -4 . Hea t
Re f . No. 116-1618
Medium Hair Conditioner
Humectant c o n d i t i o n e r t o m a xi mi ze combing f r om s i l i c o n e a nd
body f ro m g l y c e r i n e .
I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n ct i o n
1 .
R i
a-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i um
2 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 1 . 00 C o n t r o l
3 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5 . 0 0 Co a t i n g
4 . R i t a c e t i ( C e t y l E s t e r s ) 2 .0 0 Combing
5 .
Ri tace t -PO (Ce te a re th -2 0 ) 0 .50 Em u l s i f i e r
6.
G l y c e r i n e
1.00 Humectancy
8 . Dow Co rn ing 344 F l u i d 2.00 Combing, Shin e
9 . Frag rance - Finesse Type 0 . 3 0 Odor
10 .Ka thon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure:
Hea t i tems 1 -5 t o 70C. I n sepa ra te beaker hea t i tem s 6 and
7 t o 75C. Add 1 -5 t o wa te r . M i x and co o l t o
5 0 C .
Add s i l i c o n e and
m ix . Add p er fum e a nd p r e s e r va t i ve .
Re f . No. 118-117
SOURCE:
R . I . T . A .
Corp . : Suggested Form ula t i ons
C h l o r i d e ) 2.40 C o n d i t i o n e r
7 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 8 5. 77 - - - - - - - -
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Hair Care
Products 235
Moisture Balance Conditioner w/Cropeptide W
A l t ho u g h t h i s easy-to-m ake c o n d i t i o n e r c o n t a i n s few i n g r e d -
i e n t s , i t d e l i v e r s b i g c o n d i t i o n i n g b e n e f i t s .
I n g r e d i e n t s :
P a r t A :
I n c r o q u a t CR Conc. (C et ea ry l Al co ho l (and) PEG-40 Ca st or
O i l ( a n d) S t e a r a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 6.00
P a r t B:
Dei on i zed Water
92 .70
P a r t
C :
C r o p e p t i d e W (H yd ro l yz ed Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat
01 i osacca r i des )
1 . 0 0
Methyl paraben
0 . 2 0
Prop y l pa raben 0 .1 0
Procedure :
Hea t Pa r t A and Par t B s e p a r a t e l y t o 70-75C w i t h m i x i n g .
A t 70-75C, add P a r t B t o P ar t A w i t h m i x i n g a nd c o o l t o 40C.
Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t
C
i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g and c oo l
t o d e s i r ed f i l l t e m p e ra tu re .
pH: 4 . O t - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 2 , O O O t - 1 0 (C25C)
N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE:
C r o d a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n
H P - 1 5 8
Leave-On Conditioner Concentrate
1 . I n co rp o r a t e f ra g ra n ce . Take an e xa c t we ig h t o f Co n ce n t ra te and
add e x a c t w e i g ht o f f r a g ra n c e ( de pe nd in g on l e v e l a f t e r d i l -
u t i o n . B le nd t o g e t h e r w i t h t ho r ou g h m i x i n g .
N o te : C o n c en t ra t e c o n t a i n s o n l y enough p r e s e r v a t i v e t o p r o t e c t
t h e c o n c e n t r a t e. P le as e add a d d i t i o n a l p r e s e r v a t i v e t o
p ro du ct d i l u t e d s o l u t i o n .
2 .
D i l u t e t h e above c o n ce nt r at e d b l e n d w i t h 7 p a r t s
o f
d e i o n i z e d
w a te r f o r a
f i r m
s e t , o r w i t h 9 p a r t s d e io n iz e d w at er f o r
r e g u l a r s e t t i n g p ro d uc t .
3 . A pp ly f i n i s h e d p r o d uc t t o shampooed and t o w el d r i e d h a i r .
D o n ' t r i n s e . S t y l e h a i r .
SOURCE:
M c In t y r e G rou p L t d . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n
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236 Cosmetic and Toiletry
Formulations
Natural Lipid Condit ioner for Professional Salon
Mac kern i um SDC-85 ( S t e a r a l ko ni um C h l o r i d e )
Mackalene NDC (O leamidop ropy l D ime thy lamine
We igh t ,%
1 . 5
(O le am id o pro p y l D im e th y l a min e L a c ta t e (a n d ) P a lm i t -
a m id op ro p yl D im e th y l am in e L a c ta t e (an d) Palmi t o l -
eami dop rop yl Dim ethy l ami ne L ac ta te ) . o
Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hyd ro ly zed Animal P r o t e i n )
( N a t ur a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2 .0
M acko l 1618 (Ce te a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 .8
S tea re th -2 1
. E
M a cks ta t
DM
(DMDM Hyd a n to i n ) q s
Water, Fragrance, Dye q s t o 1 00 .0
Procedure :
1 .
Add f i r s t f i v e components t o wa t er and h e a t t o 70 de gr ee s
C .
2 . Cool t o
4 5
degrees
C .
and add remaining components.
3 .
Cool and f i l l .
Mild Opaque Conditioner
Weigh t ,%
Macka lene 326 (S tea ramidop ropy l Morpho l ine La c t a t e ) 8 .0
C e t y l A l c o h o l 1 . 8
Ph o sp h o r i c Ac i d
0 . 6
Sod ium Ch lor ide 0 . 3
Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd a n to i n ) q s
Water, Dye, Fragrance,
q s
t o 10 0. 0
Procedure :
1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o wa te r a nd h e a t t o 70 de g re e s C .
2 .
W i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l and add dy e, p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfum e
a t 40 degrees C .
Mild Pearl Condit ioner
Wei aht %
Macka lene 326 (S tea ramidop ropy l Morpho l ine La c t a t e ) 7 .0
PEG
400
D i s t e a r a t e 0 .5
Sod ium Ch lo r ide 0 . 5
Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydantoin) q s
Wate r , dye , f rag rance ,
q s
t o 1 00 .0
Procedure :
1 . Add t h e f i r s t t h r e e c omponents t o w at er and h ea t t o 65
2 . W i th c on t i nu ou s s t i r r i n g , c oo l t o 40 degrees C . and add dye,
SOURCE:
M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Pe rson a l Care F o rm ula ry
degrees C .
p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r an c e .
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Hair Care Products 237
Non-Aerosol Hair Spray with Protein
A non-aeros o l h a i r spr ay based on p r o t e i n (Promois WK-HQ)
and Ri tapan DL. E x t r a sheen i s d e r i v e d f r o m R i t a l a n AWS.
I n a r e d i e n t s :
1 SD A lco h o l - 4 0 66.70
2 . E t h y l E s t e r o f PVM/MA-Copolymer 7 . 0 0
3 .
AMP-95 0 . 2 0
4 . D ime th icone Copo lyo l 0 .50
5 . R i t a l a n AWS (PPG-12-PEG-65 L a n o l i n O i l ) 0 .2 0
6 . F ra g ra n ce
0 . 1 0
7 .
Promois
WK-HQ
( P r o t e i n ) 0 .2 0
8 . R i t a p a n
D L
0 . 1 0
9 . D i s t i 1 ed /D ei on i zed Water 25.00
Func t
i
n
So l ub i 1i y
H o l d
N e u t r a l i z a t i o n
Sheen
Sheen
Odor
Repai r
M o i s t u r e
----- - --
Compounding Procedure:
Combine item
2
t o a l co h o l a nd m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add AMP and
m ix w e l l . Add i t e m s 4-6 i n o r d e r
w i t h
good a g i t a t i o n . P re -m ix
i t e ms 7-9 and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
SOURCE: R . I . T . A .
Corc . :
Ref. No. 1 2 0 - 2 4
Hair Rinse for Stressed Hair
Component:
I Emulgade 1 0 0 0 N i
Eutano l
G
Cocopherol 1250
11. Dehyquar t A
Wa te r , d e m in . /P re se rva t i o n
pH-Value: approx. 4
V is c os i t y mPas, app ro x . : 10 .000
4,O
2,o
2;o
4 , O
88,O
P r ep a ra t io n i n t h e L ab or a t or y:
Phase I t i r a t t h i s t e m p e ra t u re f o r 5 m i nu t e s . C ool down t o 40C
w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e a n d , i f ne ces sar y, h ea t s e n s i t i v e
a d d i t i v e s . C ool down t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t t h e pH v a l u e
e . g . w i t h c i t r i c a c id .
SOURCE: Henkel
K G a A :
F o r m u l a t i o n No.
90/322/7
Mel t phase I t 80-850. Heat phase
I 1
t o 80-85C and s t i r i n t o
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238 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearly Lotion Conditioner
Wei q h t
Macka lene 316 (St eara mido prop y l D imethy lamine Lac ta te ) 7.0
PEG
400
D i s t e a r a t e 0 . 5
Sodium S u l f a t e 0 . 5
P ro p y le n e G l yco l 2 . 0
M a cks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd a n to i n )
q s
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0
Procedure :
1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o w a t er a nd h e a t t o
65
degrees C.
2 .
W it h m i l d a g i t a t i o n c o o l t o
45
degrees C . and add remain ing
components.
3. Cool and f i l l .
Protein Lotion Conditioner
Wei q h t I
Macki ne 301 (St eara mido prop y l D imethy lamine) 1 . 5
Macko l 16 (C e ty l A lc oho l ) 2 . 5
L a c t i c A c i d 88 0 . 7
Mackpro NLP ( Quat ern i un-79 Hy dro lyz ed Animal P r o t e i n )
( N at ur a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 1 . 5
Sodium Ch lo r i de 0 .5
M a cks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd a n to i n ) qs
Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o 1 00 .0
Procedure :
1 . D i s s o l v e s odium c h l o r i d e i n w at e r.
2 .
Add f i r s t fo u r componen ts and hea t t o 70 degrees C .
3 . B1 end u n t i 1 homogenous.
4 .
Cool t o 4 5 degrees
C .
and add r em ai ni ng components.
5 . Cool and f i l l .
Spray Leave-On Condi t ioner
Weiqht ,%
Mackpro NLP (Q uate rn i um-79 Hy dr o ly ze d Animal P r o t e i n )
( N at u ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 1 . o
Mackalene 426 ( I s o s t e a r a m i d o pr o p y l M o r p h o l i n e L a c t a t e ) 3 . 0
M a cks ta t DM (DMDM Hydantoin) q s
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
100,o
Procedures:
1 . Add components t o wa te r .
2 . Heat t o 40 degrees
C .
and b l en d u n t i l c l e a r .
SOURCE:
Mc In t y r e Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Ca re
Formulary
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Hair Care
Products
239
Pump Gel Type Spritz
A
g e l s e t t i n g l o t i o n w h ic h c an be d i s pe n s ed f r o m a pump.
C o nt a in s S e t t i n g a ge nt s, a n t i - s t a t s and R i ta p an
D L
f o r r e p a i r
and l u s t e r .
I n a r e d i e n t s :
1 . D i s t i 1 ed /D e i on i zed Water
2 . P ro p yle n e G l y co l
3 . R i t a p a n DL (Pan theno l D L )
4 . R i t a l o e 200M (A loe Ge l )
5 . Po l yqu ta 3000 (Po lyqua te rn ium-10 )
6 . R i t a b a t e 2 0 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 )
7 . H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
8 . R i t a CTAC (Ce t r im o n iu m Ch lo r i d e )
9 .
Fraa rance
88.87
5.00
1
. o o
1 - 0 0
2 .00
1 . o o
1 . o o
0 .5 0
0.20
F u n c t i o n
Humectant
Re p a i r
Repai r
S e t , A n t i -
S t ab i 1
i
y
Gel 1i g
Condi t i on
Odor
_ _ _ _ _ _ - - -
l 0 .Ka thon CG 0 .0 3 P re se rva t
Compoun
Comb
u n t i l c
u n i f o r m
and mix
Re f .
i
g Procedure :
ne i tems 3 and 4 w i t h t h e wa te r and hea t t o 60C
e a r . D i s p er s e i t e m s 5 and 7 i n t o b a t c h . M i x u n t
(a b o u t 30 m in u te s ) . T hen add re m a in i n a i t e m s i n
w e l l
N O . 118-180
Moisturizing Hair Styling Gel
I n a r e d i e n t
1 .
D i
s t i 1 ed /D e i on i zed Water
2 Ac ri ta me r 940 (Carbomer 940)
3 . G l y c e r i n e
4 . R i tapan DL (Pan theno l d l )
5 . E thano l
@
95%
6 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L an o l i n)
7 .
Rita phen one 3 (Benzophenone-3)
8 . Te t rasod ium EDTA
9. PPG-12-Buteth-16
1O.PVP
11. Fragran ce
12.DMDM Hydantoin
13. T r i et ha no l ami ne @ 99%
1 4 . D i
s t i 1 ed/D ei on i zed Water
1 5 . R i t a l a s t i n EL 30
58.20
0.60
10.00
0 .20
10.00
5.00
0.10
0 . 10
5 . 0 0
1.50
0 . 1 0
0 .20
0 .6 0
5 .40
3.00
. S t a t
M
1
o r d e r
ng
ve
X
Func t
i
n
Gel 1
i
g
C o n d i t i o n i n g
Moi s t u r i z a t i o n
C l a r i t y
Sh ine
UV Absorber
C1 a r i y
Se t
Se t
Odor
P r e s e r v a t i v e
PH
_-__--_---
-----_--
M o i s t u r e
Compounding Procedure:
u n t i l u n i f o r m . S e p a r a t e l y com bine i t e m s 4-12 and i t e m 15 . M i x
u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t o A c r i t a m e r m i x t u r e . P re mi x 13 & 14 f o r 10%
TEA
s o l u t i o n . Add t o m i x t u r e and a g i t a t e d u r i n g t h i c k e n i n g .
SOURCE: R . I . T , A . Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu l a t i ons
Combine i tems
1 +
3 and mi x . Add i t e m 2 s lo w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n
Re f . N o . 118-142
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24 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pump Spray Hair Detangler
H e a l t h y s h i n e d e t a n g l i n g s p r a y based on c a t i o n i c s
I n q r e d i e n t s : w/w F u n c t i o n
1 . R ita-CTAC (Ce t r imon ium C h l o r id e )
2 . 0 0
C a t i o n i c
2 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 8 8 . 5 0 - - - - - - - -
3 .
4 .
5 .
6 .
7 .
8 .
9 .
1 0 .
D i me t hi c on e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l
8
88183)
Supe rs at AWS-4 (PEG-20 Hy dr og en at ed
G l y c e r i n e 13 99%
Pro p y le n e G l yco l
Ri ta pa n DL (Pantheno l
DL)
S im c hi n R e f i n ed ( J o j ob a O i l )
G l y d a n t
F rag rance - P er t P l us Type #189-724
La no l i n )
1 .00 S l i o
1 .00 Fee l
4 . 0 0 M o i s t u r e
2 . 0 0 Moi s t u r e
1 O O H e a l t h
0 .1 5 Sh in e
0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e
0.15 Odor
Compounding Procedure:
H ea t w a te r t o 87C and add i t e m 4 . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add
r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s e x c ep t p r e s e r v a t i v e and pe rf um e. C oo l
t o 46C and add i te ms 9 and 10.
R e f . No. 118-171
Hot Oil Treatment
Hot o i l t re at me nt f o r deeo o e n et r a t i o n o f t h e h a i r s h a f t .
R ejuvenates h a i r t o i t s h e a l t hy s t a t e
I n a r e d i e n t s :
1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 65/70
2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l
L a c t y l a t e )
3 .
L a u ry l M y r i s t y l A l c oh o l
4 . Phenoxyethano l
5 . Shebu Re f ine d (Shea B u t t e r )
6 . L a n o l i n - X - t r a D e od o ri z ed ( L a n o l i n )
7 . Fragrance-F lo ra l #169-120
8 .
G lyd a n t
Compounding Procedure:
Combine i tem s 1-6 and heat t o 165F
Add pe r fume and p rese rva t i ve .
R e f . No. 118-119
w/w
F u n c t i o n
8 9 .0 0 M o i s tu re , Sh ine
5 . 0 0 S u b s t a n t i v e
i o n
2 . 0 0 C o u p l i n g
1 O O
U V
P r o t e c
0 . 5 0 Emol 1i n t
2 . 0 0 R e p a i r
0 . 3 0 Odor
0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t
M i x and c o o l t o
ve
120F.
SOURCE: R . I . T . A , C o r p . :
Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions
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Hair Care Products
241
Ringing Gel
C l ea r r i n g i n g g e l w i t h m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f ro m P a t i o n i c I S L and
g e l s t r u c t u r e f r om S u pe r sa t .
I n g r e d i e n t s :
w/w
F u n c t i o n
1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 4 2. 40 _ _ _ - - _ _ _ _ _
2 . G l y c e r i n e 1 5 .0 0 F e el
3 . M i n e r a l
O i l
70 sus . 12.0 0 Coat
4 . R i t o l e t h 5 ( O le t h- 5 ) 1 0. 00 E m u l s i f i e r
5 . Supersa t
AWS
4 (Peg-20 H ydrogenat ed La no l i n) 17 .0 0 Gel
6 . P a t i o n i c ISL ( So diu m I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 1
. O O
M i l d n e s s
7. 2 -Phenoxyethano l 2 .00 So l u b i 1i e r
8 . Germa l l
I 1
0 . 4 0 P r e s e r v a ti e
9 . Frag rance 0 . 2 0 Odor
Compounding Procedure:
Heat i t em s 1 and 2 t o 165F. Heat i te ms 3-7 t o 165F. Add i te ms
3-7 t o i t e m s 1 and 2 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Pour i n j a r s a t 135F.
R e f .
No.
118-160
Micro Em ulsion Ringing Gel
Shebu WS r i n g i n g m i c r o e mu ls io n g e l . I d e a l f o r h a i r d r e s s i n g
w i t h m i l d n e s s and s h i n e .
I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n c ti o n
1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 5 3. 70
2 . G l y c e r i n e 1 0 .0 0 F ee l
3 . M i n e r a l O i l , L i g h t 1 2. 00 S h i ne
4 . R i t o l e t h 5 ( O l et h - 5) 1 0. 00 E mu ls i f ie r
5 . Supersa t AWS 4 (PEG-20 Hydrogen ated La no l i n) 12 .0 0 Ring\Gel
6 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Sod i um I so s t e a ro y l L a c t y l a t e ) 1 . O O M i 1dness
7 . Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 1
. O O
Sh ine
8. G1 ydan t (DMDM Hyd anto i n) 0 .20 P r e s e r v a t i v e
9 . Fragranc e 0 .1 0 Odor
Compounding Procedure:
h ea t t o 1 75F. Add t h i s t o t h e f i r s t phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . (No te :
p rocess may need an add-back o f 3 -5% w at e r) . Cool t o 130F o r
u n t i l t h i c k e n i n g o c cu r s. Add i te m s 8 and 9 . Add back wa t e r l o s s .
F i l l a t t h i s t em pe r a tu r e i n t o j a r s and co v er .
Heat i t em s 1,2 and 7 t o 175F. Combine i te ms 3,4,5 and 6 and
R e f .
N o .
118-162
SOURCE:
R. I . T .A . Co rp .: Su gg e ste d F o rm u la t i o n s
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242
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Salon Type Hair Condi t ioner
S t a t e o f t h e a r t p r o te i n/ p an t he no l based h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r
d e s ign e d f o r a chie ve m en t o f s a l o n t y p e p e r fo rm an ce .
I n n r e d i e n t s :
%w/w
F u n c t i o n
1 .
R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 .85 Clean Fee l
2 . R it a-ST AC (S te a r t r im o n iu m Ch lo r i d e ) 0 .44 Co n d i t i o n e r
3 . Rita-CTAC (Ce t r imon ium Ch lo r i de ) 0 .48 Co nd i t i o ne r
4. C i t r i c A ci d I3 100%
0.09 pH Cont ro l
5 . Di met hyl Stea rami ne (Adogen MA-108) 0 .13 C on di t i on er
6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 9 5. 51
_ _ _ _ _ _ - - - _
7 . Promois WK-HQ (Hyd ro xyDro p v l t r im o n -
. . -
i m Hy dro1yzed Kera t i ) 0. 05 Body
8 . R i t a l o e ZOOM (A loe Vera Ge l ) 0 . 0 5 Body
9. R i t apan DL (d l - Pa nt he no l ) 0 .05 Body
10 .Propy lene G l yc o l 0 .50 C lean Fee
1 1 .H y dr o xy e th y l C e l l u l o s e ( N a t r o s o l
250 HHR) I
00
V i s c o s i t y
12 .Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t
13.Dow C or ni ng 2-7224
0 . 4 0
Combing
14.Dow Co rn i ng 344 F l u i d 0.17 Combing
15.F ragr ance 0.25 Odor
ve
Compoundi ng Pr oc ed ur e:
To 15% o f t o t a l w a te r a t 65C add se p a ra t e l y i t e m s 1 -4 .
Hea t t o 70C, add i t em 5 and mix 20 m i n . Add an oth er 10% o f
th e wa te r a t room tempera tu r e and co n t i nue m ix in g 20 m in .
To re mai n in g 75% o f wate r add i te ms 7,8 and 9 a t room temp-
e r a t u r e . Add i t e m 10 and s l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 11. A g i t a t e 15
m i n . w h i l e h e a t i n g b a t c h s l i g h t l y t o 35C. When b a t c h t h i c k e n s ,
i nc r ea s e a g i t a t i o n f o r up t o 60 m in . u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Ref. No. 116-181A
Salon Type air Conditioner
Salon t y p e h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g i s a ch ie ved w i t h t h e h e l p o f
Shebu and an a l l - n a t u r a l c o n d i t i o n i n g a g en t .
I n a r e d i e n t s :
1 .
Ri ta c h o l 1000 (R . I . T .A . B l e n d)
2 . Shebu Re f i ne d (Shea Bu t t e r )
3 . R i t o l e t h - 1 0 ( O l e t h - 1 0 )
4 . R ita-CTAC (Ce t r imon ium Ch lo r i de )
5 . G l y c e r i n e
6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
7 .
Frag rance - S i 1 k i en ce Type #169-120
8. Kathon
CG
w
5 .0 0
0 . 5 0
0 .5 0
2 . 0 0
3.00
88.67
0 .3 0
0.03
F u n c t i o n
Emu1 s i
f
i
r
N a t u r a l S h i n e
Appl i a t i on
C o n d i t i o n i n g
M o i s t u r e
Odor
P r e s e r v a t i v e
- - - - - - - -
Compounding Procedure:
Combine i te ms 1-4 and he at t o 70C. I n a sepa ra t e beake r
combine i tems 5 and 6 and heat t o 75-80C. Add i tem s 1-4 t o
wa te r m i x tu re an d m i x u n t i l u n i f o rm . Coo l t o 40C a nd a dd
f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e .
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions
Ref. No. 118-120
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Hair Care Products 243
Sil icone Hair Gel
S i l i c o n e based s e t t i n g g e l . H ig h g l y c e r i n e a p p r o pr i a te f o r
c u r l a c t i v a t i o n . R i t a p a n D1 f o r h um ec ta nc y.
I n n r e d i e n t s :
1
.
D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water
2 .
Acri tamer 940 (Carbomer 940)
3 . G l y c e r i n e
4 . P ro p yle n e G l yc o l
5 Dimeth icone Copo lyo l
6 . R i tapan DL (Pan theno l d l )
7 .
Laneto 50 (PEG-75 Lanol in)
8 . F rag rance
9 . G1 yda nt (DMDM Hydan to i n )
1O.TEA @ 99%
3
81.10
0.80
10.00
5.00
1 . o o
0.80
0 . 5 0
0.10
0 . 2 0
0.80
F u n c t i o n
G e l l i n g
C u r l
Emol 1i n t
Sh ine
M o i s t u r e
Sh ine
Odor
P r e s e r v a t i v e
PH
_ _ - _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Compounding Procedure:
Premix i te ms 4,5,6 and
7
w i t h a g i t a t i o n . P re mi x i t e m s 8 and 9
i n t o i t e m
3.
Combine i t e m 1 0 w i t h re m a in i n g 10% o f t h e wa t e r .
Ne u t ra l i ze Ac r i t a m e r s o l u t i o n . When co m p le te a dd o th e r p re m ixe s
and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Re f . N o . 118-156
D i sp er s e s l o w l y i t e m
2
i n t o 90% o f t h e w ate r w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
Shebu Hair Sett ing Gel
W ater ba sed s e t t i n g g e l w i t h Shebu. The s e t t i n g a ge nt i s
p l a s t i c i z e d w i t h S upers at f o r s o f t e r h o l d .
I n a r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n
2. Acr i tam er 940 (Carbomer 940) 0 .70 G e l l i n g
. D i s t i 1 ed/D ei on i zed Water 60.80 - - _ _ - - - - _ _
3.
D i
s t i 1ed/Dei on i zed Water 26.50
4 . G l y ce r i n e 4 .00 Moi s t u r e
5.
Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 3 .00 Lu st er
6. Supersa t AWS 4 (Peg 2 0-Hydrog en ated L a n o l i n ) 1 .0 0 P l a s t i c i z e r
7 . PVP
K-30
2 . 0 0 Set
8. Ri tapan DL (Pan theno l d l ) 0.20 Moi s t u r e
9 .
TEA
@
50
1.40 pH
10 ,F rag rance 0.20 Odor
11
.DMDM
Hyd a n to i n
0 . 2 0
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure:
S l o w ly d i sp e r s e A cr i t am er i n t o i t e m 1 . A g i t a te u n t i l f u l l y
h y d ra t e d. Combine i t e m s 3-9 u n t i l u n i f o r m ( s l i g h t h e a t i n g may
be n e c e ss a r y ). Add t h i s t o t h e A c r i ta m e r m i x t u r e , add i t e m s
10 and 11, and a g i t a t e u n t i l u n i f o r m .
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu la t ion s
Ref. No. 118-158
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244 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Stiff Holding Hairspray
I nq
r
ed
i
n t
s :
Amphomer
AMP
C r o t e i n AD
Dow Corning 556
C i t r o f l e x 2
O c t y l D i m e t h y l
PABA
SDA
40
Pr ope l 1 an t A-46
P r e p a r a t i o n
:
D i s s o l v e AMP i n t h e a nh yd ro us a l c o h o l . Wh
Pa r t s by Wei qh t
4 .75
0.80
0 .20
0 . 1 5
0 .20
0 . 0 5
6 .85
30.00
l e m a in ta
n ing good
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add Amphomer t o t h e v o r t e x . C o n t in u e m i x i n g
u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s co mp le te . Add ba la n ce o f i n g r e d i e n t s . When
co m p le te l y d i s so l ve d an d homogeneous, f i l t e r and
f i l l
c o n c e n t r a t e
C h a r g e p r o p e l l a n t .
P r ec i s i on Speci f i a t i o n s :
Actua tor : 21-8173 0 .0201 ' MB Body: 07-3415 0.0 62 x 0. 02 0 VT
Stem Ga sk et : 05-0310 Buna D i p Tube: 09-3530
0.060
Spring: 06-6010
SS
Stem: 0.4-1230 0.020 CUP: 12-8700
Formula 5887-80-4
Mater
i
1
s
:
V e r s a t y l - 4 2
DC-193 S i 1
i
one
DC-556 S i
1
i one
G1 y c e r i ne
C i
t o f 1ex-2
Monamid 716
Sunarome OMC
Frag rance
Ethano l , Anhydrous
Pro p e l l a n t A -4 6
AMP-95
Aerosol Shaping Hairspray
Par ts/We i ah t
3 .7 5
0 . 9 6
0.10
0 .10
0.10
0 .10
0.20
0 .05
Q.S
64.64
30.00
V al ve : P r e c i s i o n
.018 stem
,018 x .013 body
.0181' FT Ac tu a to r
Spray
Rate:
0.56 g /sec
P r e p a r a t i o n :
Add a l c o h o l t o t h e t a n k . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n ,
s l o w l y a dd Ve rs a t y l -4 2 t o t h e vo r te x . Add AMP-95 a nd co n t i n u e
m i x in g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s c om pl et e. Add r e ma in in g i n g r e d i e n t s
o f t h e con cen t r a te . When com p le te l y d i s s o l v ed and homogeneous,
f i l t e r and f i l l c o n c en t r at e t o t h e c an . Charge p r o p e l l a n t .
Formula 6258-07
SOURCE: Nat iona l S ta rch and Chemica l Co. : Suggested Formula t ions
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Hair Care Products
245
Styling/Conditioning Mousse
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A F o r e s t a l l
B r i j 721
D o w Co rn i ng 929 Emuls ion
Wate r , de i on i zed
B G a f f i x VC-713
SD Alcohol 40
C Hydroca rbon Prope l lan t A -46
Procedure :
Heat (A ) t o 60C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i fo r m . Cool t o
Add (A ) t o ( E ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Pack i n s u i t a b l e ae r os ol
c o n t a i n e r s and p r e s s u r i z e w i t h (C) a t
room
t e m p e r a t u r e .
Formula PC 8216
w/w
1 . 4 0
0.50
0 . 1 0
7 8 - 0 0
5.00
10 . 00
5 .0 0
40C.
Clear Gel Grooming Agent & Condi t ioner
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
M i n e r a l o i l , M ar co l 70
B r i j 97
A r l a t o n e
G
Atlas G-3570
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
Sorbo
E
Water , de i on i zed
Procedure :
Heat
( A )
t o 9OC and
( E )
t o 95C. Add ( 8 )
s t i r r i n g . Remove f ro m he a t and c o n t i n u e t o
c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r ( a b o u t
o r j a r s .
Y U
14.10
15.50
15.50
0 . 1 0
8 . 6 0
6 .90
39 .30
t o ( A) w i t h mo de ra te
s t i r as t h e m i x t u r e
65C) p o u r i n t o t u b e s
Hair Straightening Cream
I nar edi n t s :
A
G l y c e r o l m o n o s t e a r a t e
B r i j 35
S t e a r y l a l c oh o l
M in er al o i l
Water
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
C Sod ium hydrox ide
Water
D *Perfume
q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure :
Heat ( A) t o 60C and
( E )
t o 62C. Add (B) t o (A ) w i t h c o n s t a n t
a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o l . Add ( C ) . M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add
(D).
Formula HC-17
B
Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
w/w
20.00
2 .0 0
5 . 0 0
5 .0 0
1 . o o
40.00
3 .5 0
23 .50
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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246 Cosmetic and
Toiletry
Formulations
Styling Mousse
X22176-106 (Hydroalcoholic)
Co n ce n t ra te :
D i s t i l l e d w at er q . s . * t o 100
Eastman
AQ
55s po lymer 8 . 0
Myvatex T e x t ur e L i t e e m u l s i f i e r 2 .0
Monamid 150 ADD 1
. o
M yv ate x 60 e m u l s i f i e r 0 . 3
SDA-40C alcohol 2 0 . 0
Fragrance q . s . *
C i t r i c a c i d q . s . *
Procedure :
1 . Heat Eastman AQ 55s and w a te r t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l
2 . Coo l t o room tempera tu r e .
3 .
S l o w l y add M yvatex T ex t ur e L i t e w i t h h ig h- sp ee d a g i t a t i o n .
4. When u n i f o r m , add Myv atex 60 and Monamid
150
ADD.
5. Sl ow ly add SDA-40C a lc oh o l .
6 . Add f rag rance .
7. A d j us t pH t o 6 :5 -7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
8 . A e r o so l f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5. 23 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t
( A e r o p r e s s ) .
*q. s .
=
q u a n t i t y s u f f i c i e n t
t h e p oly mer i s c o mp le t e l y d i sp e rs e d i n t h e w a te r .
Care sh o uld be t a ke n when m ix i n g t o a vo i d a e ra t i o n .
Sty ling Mou sse
X22176-107 (Alcohol-Free)
Co n ce n t ra te :
w
D i s t i 1 e d w at er q . s . * t o 100
Eastman AQ 55s po lymer 8 .0
M yvatex T e x t u re L i t e emu1 s i
f i
e r 5 . 5
Monamid 150 ADD 1 . 0
M yva te x 6 0 e m u l s i f i e r
0 .3
P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . *
F rag rance q . s .
C i t r i c a c i d q . s . *
Procedure :
1 . Heat Eastman AQ 55s and w at er t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l t h e
2 . Cool t o room t em p e r at u r e a nd add p r e s e r v a t i v e .
3 . S l o w l y add M yvatex T e x tu r e L i t e w i t h h i gh -s pe ed a g i t a t i o n .
4. When un i f o r m , add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 150 ADD.
5. Add f ragrance.
6 . A d j u s t pH t o 6.5 -7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
7 . A e r os ol f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5 . 23 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t
(Ae ro p re ss ) .
SOURCE: Eastman Chem ic al Co. : Suggested Formula t ions
* q . s . = q u a n t i t y s u f f i c i e n t
p oly mer i s c o mp le t el y d i s pe r se d i n t h e w a t e r.
C ar e s ho u l d be t a k e n when m i x i n g t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n .
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Hair Care
Products
247
Water-Based Hair pray
X21980-057 (Pu m p)
Phase
A :
D i s t i l l e d wa te r
Eastman
AQ
55s
po lymer
Phase
0 :
Germal l
I 1
d i a z o l i d i n y l u re a
Methy lpa raben
Phase
C :
L u v i s k o l VA 73W
P V P / V A
copo lymer - -50% so l ids
Procedure :
1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C.
2. W i t h m i x i n g , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 m i n u t e s .
3. Cool t o 60C, add Phase
6 ,
and mix u n t i l d i s s o lv e d .
4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase
C .
5 . Add w at er l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g .
6 . M ix u n t i l u n i fo r m; f i l t e r and package.
pH: 6 .0+-1.0
Water-Based Hair Spray
X21980-058 (Aerosol )
Phase
A :
D i s t i l l e d w ate r
Eastman AQ 38s polymer
Phase
0 :
Germal l I 1 d i azo1i i n y l u re a
Methy lpa raben
Phase
C :
L u v i s k o l VA 73W P V P /V A copo lymer - -50% so l ids
Phase
D :
Dymel A d i m e t h y l e t h e r
X
9 0 .4
5 . 0
0 . 3
0 . 3
4 . 0
rn
6 0 .4
5 .0
0 . 3
0 . 3
4 .0
3 0 .0
Procedure :
1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C.
2 .
When mi x i ng , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 m in u te s .
3. Cool t o 60C, add Phase B, and mix u n t i l d i s so l v ed .
4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C .
5 .
Add w at er l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g .
6 . Add phase D a t room tempera tu re .
7 . M ix u n t i l u ni fo rm ; f i l t e r and package.
8. A g i t a t e ae r os o l c o n t a i n e r t o e ns ur e s o l u t i o n
o f
p r o p e l l a n t .
SOURCE:
Eastman Chemical Co,: Suggested Formula t ions
pH: 6.0+-1.0
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248
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner
Wei a h t .
Mackam 35 (Cocamidopropy l Be ta i ne ( V ia G l yc er id e) 10 .0
Mackal ene 116 (Cocami dop rop yl Di me thy l ami ne La c t at e) 8 . 0
Mac kale ne 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl Di met hy lam i ne
L a c t a te) 1 . o
Nat roso l 250
HHR
0 . 7
M a cks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd a n to i n ) q s
Water, Dye, Fragrance
q s
t o 1 00 .0
Procedure :
1 .
C o m p le t e ly h y d r a t e N a t r o s o l .
2 . Add f i r s t t h r e e components and h ea t t o
40
degrees
C .
3 . B le nd u n t i l c l e a r .
4 .
Add re ma in in g components and c o o l .
Natural Lipid Styl ing Mousse
Wei a h t ,
PVP/VA E335 4 .5
SDA A lco h o l 2 1 .5
Mackpro NLP (Q uat ern i um-79 Hy dr o ly ze d Animal P r o t e in )
( N a t ur a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 4 . 0
De ion ize d Water , Frag ranc e, Dye q s t o 100 .0
Procedure :
1 .
Combine components and b l en d u n t i l c l e a r .
2 . P r e s s u r i ze w i t h s u i a b l e p r o p e l 1 a n t
Pump Type Hair Spray
Resyn 26-1
31
4
Wei g h t ,
6 . 0
Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hyd ro ly zed An imal P r o t e i n )
De io n ize d Water 7 . 6
( N at u ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 1
. o
Eth a n o l , F ra g ra n ce
q s
t o 10 0. 0
Procedure :
1 . Dis so l ve Resyn 26-1314 i n a l co h o l .
2 . Add re m a in i n g components a nd b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .
SOURCE:
Mc In ty re Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Care Fo rmula ry
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Hair Care Products 249
55%
VOC Aerosol Hair Spray
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Lovocry l 47
AMP
De ion i zed Water
Anhydrous Ethanol, SDA-40
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i v e
DME
Cloud P o i n t : <-35C
Val ve : Se aqu ist V alv e NS-34
Stem: 0. 01 3
Gaske t :
B
Cup: Regu
Code
S p r i n g :
0
Body: Cap
Vapor Tap
Dip Tube:
A c t u a t o r :
P a r t s by Wei q h t
8 . 0 0
1 .38
35.62
22.00
q.s.
9 , s .
33 .00
t y l 0 .042 T H K . Code:
5 0 1
a r , Epoxy to p , Lamina te Bot tom, Dimp led ,
1610
020
ss
1 a r y
0 . 0
13
0.040' '
E x c el 200 M i s t y 0 .0 16 M i s t y
P re p a ra t i on :
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w ly s i f t i n L ov oc ry l 47. M ix u n t i l d i s so lv e d .
F i l t e r and
f i l l ,
t h e n c har ge w i t h p r o p e l l a n t .
Formula 7625:638
D i s s o l v e AMP i n w a te r and e t h a n o l . Whi l e m a i n t a i n i n g good
80 VOC Non -Aero so l Hair Spray
Th is 80% VOC non-aeroso l h a i r sp ra y ha s a n a tu ra l f e e l a nd
e x c e l l e n t d r y i n g t i m e w i t h a f i n e , m i s t y sp ra y.
I n g r e d i e n t s :
L o vo c ry l -4 7
NaOH
D C
193
d l -Pa n th e n o l
C i t r o f l e x - 2
De ion ize d Water
Anhydrous Ethano l ,
SDA-40
Pa r t s by Wei q h t
5 . 0 0
0 . 4 0
0 . 3 0
0 2 1
0 .2 0
13 .89
80 . 00
V a l v e S p e c i f i c a t i o n : Calmar Mark I 1
P r e p a r a t i o n
D i
ss o l ve NaOH i n wate r and e than o l . Whi l e mai n t a i n i ng good
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L ov oc ry l - 47 . When s o l u t i o n i s c om ple te ,
add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r
and f i l l .
Formula 7577-65
SOURCE: Na t i on a l S t a r ch and Chemical C o . : Suggested Formulas
A c t u a t o r : WTS Head
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250
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
80% VOC Hair Spray
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Amp homer
AMP
C i
r o f 1 ex-2
Monamid 716
G1 y c e r i ne
d l P an th en ol
S ol u l an-75
Neo-He l iopan
A V
Anhydrous Ethano l ,
Pr op el 1 an t 152A
N-butane
SDA-40
P a r t s b v W e i gh t
5 .00
0 .8 2
0.30
0 .2 0
0.10
0.10
0 .1 0
0 . 0 5
55.00
13.33
25.00
V a lv e S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : P r e c i s i o n V a lv e C or p.
Stem: 04-1215 .016 D i p Tube: 09-2010
Stem Gas ket: 05-0350 B u ty l Ac tu at or S t y l e : 21-8146 Kosmos
Spring: 06-6010 SS O r i f i c e S i ze : ,025 MB Concave
Body: 07-7970 .016 LD M ou nt in g Cup: 32-7300-62 F l a t , Epon
T/B Dimp led F u l l Bond
P r e p a r a t i o n :
s l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer. When s o l u t i o n i s co m plete , add re m a in i n g
i n g r e d i e n t s and m ix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r , f i l l and charge
w i t h p r o p e l l a n t s .
Formula 7924:28
D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t ha n o l. W h i le m a i nt a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n ,
55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray
In g r e d i en s ;
L o vo c ry l
AMP
R h o d o r s i l O i l s 70041 V O .65
SDA-40
D I Water
Anhydrous Ethano l ,
P ro p e l 1a n t DME
V a l
v i
ng Speci
f
i
a t
Se a q u i s t NS 34
S t e m O r i f i c e : 0
G a s k e t : B u t y l 0 .
on8
:
P a r t s b v Weight
5 .00
0 .89
1 . o o
38.11
22.00
33.00
01
3
042 Thk. Cod e: 501
Cup: R eg ul ar , Epoxy Top, Lam ina te Bottom, Dimpled, Code: 1610
Sp r i n g : 0 .0 2 0 SS
Vapor Tap: 0 .013
Tub ing
I D :
0.040
Ac tu a t o r : Exce l 1 200 M i sty/O. 106 M i s t y
D i s s o l v e AMP i n et h a no l and w a t e r. W h i le m a i n t a i n i n g g ood
P r e p a r a t i o n :
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w ly s i f t i n L o v oc r y l . When s o l u t i o n i s complete,
add Rh o d o rs i l O i l s 7 0041 VO .65 and mix u n t i l homogeneous.
F i l t e r and f i l l - c h a r g e can w i t h p r o p e l l a n t .
Formula 7746-137
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical
Co
: Suggested Formulas
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Hair Care
Products
251
80% VOC Hair Spray
Resyn 28-2930
Amphomer LV-71
AMP
C i
r o f l e x - 2
Monamid 716
G l y c e r i n e
Pantheno l
S ol u l an-75
Neo-He1
i
pan A V
Anhydrous Ethanol, SDA-40
Prop e l 1ant 152A
N-butane
Frag rance
Cloud P o i n t : <-35C
3 .00
0.81
0 .44
0.30
0.20
0 .10
0 .10
0 .10
0 .05
55.00
14.90
25.00
g s
Va l ve: P r e c i s i o n Va l ve Corp.
Stem: 04-121 5 .01 6
Stem Gasket: 05-0350 B u t y l
Body: 07-7 970 .016 LD
Moun t ing Cup: 32-7 300- 62/F lat , Epon T/B Dimple d F u l l Bond
D i p Tube: 09-2010
Ac tu a t or S t y l e : 21-8146 Kosmos
O r i f i c e S i z e : .025 ME3 Concave
Spring: 06-6010 ss
Form ul a 7318-93
High Humidity Hair Spray
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Resyn 28-2913
AMP
C r o t e i n AD Anhydrous
Frag rance
Anhydrous Ethanol, SDA-40
Pro pel 1ant A-46
DC- 190
P a r t s
by
Wei s h t
2 .50
0 .24
0.20
0 .20
71 .8 6
25.00
Q . S .
V a l v e : P r e c i s i o n
Stem: 0.018 (#04-1220 )
Stem Ga sk et : Buna (#OS-0310)
S p r i n g : SS (#06-6010)
Mou nt ing Cup: F l a t , Epon Top/Bottom, Dimpled (#12-7100)
Actuator: 0 .018 ' ' FT (#01-1836)
D i s s o l v e AMP i n anhydrous et ha no l , SDA-40. Sl ow ly add Resyn
Body: 0.01 8 x 0.013 V T (#07-0131)
P r e p a r a t i o n :
28-2913 t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . Add
re m a in i n g i g re d i e n t s a nd m i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. F i 1 e r and
i
1 c o n c e n t r a t e . C harge p r o p e l l a n t .
Formula 6472:103
SOURCE: Na t i on a l S ta rc h and Chemica l Corp . : Suggested Formulas
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252
Cosmetic and T oi le tv Formulations
80% VOC Aerosol Shaper Hair Spray
I n a r e d i e n t s : P a r t s by Wei s h t
Amphomer LV-71 3.50
AMP Regu lar 0 .60
Armeen DM 18D 0.25
C i r o f
1
e x 2
0.20
Monamid 716 0. 20
So l u la n 75 0 .10
Neo Hel iopan AV 0 .05
V a r i o n C ADG LS 0.20
Dei on i zed Water 14.90
Anhydrous E th an o l, SDA-40 50.0 0
N-butane 11 . o o
DM
E 19.00
V al ve S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : P r e c i s i o n V al ve
Stem: 0.016' ' (04-1215)
Stem Gasket: B u t y l (05-0350)
S p r i n g : SS (06-6010)
Moun t ing Cup: F l a t , Epon T/B Dimpled F u l l Bond
Actuator: Kosmos
MB
Concave 0.025' ' (21- 8146 )
D i s s o l v e AMP Regular and Armeen
DM 1ED
i n w at er and e t h a n o l .
Body: 0.016'' LD (07- 7970 )
P r e p a r a t i on :
W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer LV-71.
When s o l u t i o n i s c om p le t e, add r e m a i n in g i n g r e d i e n t s a nd m i x
w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l .
Formul a 8002 :183
High Solids 80% VOC Hair Spray
I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t s by Weight
Lo vo cr y l 47 10.00
AMP
1 .73
C i r o f 1ex-2 0.20
Monamid 716 0. 15
G1 y c e r i ne 0.10
Pantheno l 0 .10
Dei on i zed Water 7 .72
Anhydrous Ethano l ,
S D A - 4 0
50. 00
N-butane 12.00
DME
18.00
Frag rance
q . s .
Va l ve: P r e c i s i o n Va l ve Corp.
C lo u d Po in t : (-35C
Stem: 04-1215 0.01 6 Gas ket: 05-0350 B u t y l
Cup: 32-7300-62 F l a t , Epon T/B, Dimpled, F u l l Bond
Vapor Tap: None D i p Tube: 09-2010 0.12 2
A c t u a t o r : 0 . 0 1 6 MB Concave De l ta
Spr ing: 06-6010 SS Body: 07-7970 0. 01 6 LD
P r e p a r a t i o n :
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v oc r y l 47. When d i s s o l v e d , add
r e m a in i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and
f
i
1 , t h e n ch a rg e
w i t h
p r o p e l
1
a n t s .
SOURCE:
N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Suggested Formulas
D i
sso l ve AMP
i
water and e tha no l . W h i 1e mai n t a i n i ng good
Formula 7625:95
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Section VII
Lot ions
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254 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After Exercise
ody
Lotion
T h i s r e f r e s h i n g l o t i o n i s an e x c e l l e n t c a r r i e r f o r f ra gr an ce s
and w i l l p r o v id e m o i s t u r i z i n g a l o ng w i t h a s k i n smo oth ing e f f e c t .
P a r t I :
Water
Carbomer 940
T r i et ha no l ami ne (99%)
P a r t 1 1 :
Water
Phosphol i i d SV
SD3A Alcohol
P a r t 1 1 1 :
Pheny l D imeth icone
T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( Co s me ti c W h i t e )
% bv Weiaht
51 -6 5
0.25
0 . 4 0
30.00
1
. o o
15.00
1 .50
0.20
Procedure :
t h e Carbomer 940 i s d i s s o l v e d , ad d t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . I n a
s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x w at er w i t h P h o s p h o l ip i d SV and hea t
t o 65C w i t h m i x i ng . When d i s so l ve d , coo l t o 30-35C th en add
SD3A a l co ho l B lend P a r t I 1 t o I m i x i n g we1 1 , and p a r t I 1 1
as a s l u r r y and b l en d t o ge t he r u n t i l a u n i fo r m w h i t e l o t i o n
i s o b t a i ne d . Add c o l o r , f r a g r an c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e a s r e q u i r e d
and package.
S l o w l y a dd Carbomer 940 t o wa t er w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . A f t e r
Therapeutic Humectant Lotion
P a r t A :
Phosphol i d
SV
G1 y c e r i n
T i 02
Water
Methy l Paraben
P a r t B:
Stea re th -2
H e x y l L a u r a t e
C12-Cl5 Alcohol Benzoates
D im et hic on e and T r i m e t h y l s i l o x y s i l i c a t e
Propy l Paraben
% bv Weiaht
1 . 7
15.0
0 . 5
7 2 . 6
0 . 2
3 . 3
3 . 0
2 . 0
1 . 5
0 .2
Procedure:
Combine phases
A
and B s e p a r a t e l y w i t h h e a t i n g t o 65C.
Homogenize B i n t o A f o r a s u f f i c i e n t t i m e t o e nsu re good
e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 45C, add f r ag r an c e , and pa cka ge .
Comment
8 :
T h is s mooth p o ur ab le l o t i o n p r o v i d es i n s t a n t r e l i e f o f d r y ,
chapped s k i n and p ro v i d es a gene rous amount o f e m o l l i e n t s and
g l y c e r i n . The u se of Phosphol i d SV e l i m i n a t e s any g r e a s i n es s
and l ea v e s t h e s k i n w i t h an e le g a nt a f t e r f e e l .
SOURCE:
Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Lotions
255
Alcoholic Milk Lotion
( 0 )
S t e a r i c A c id
C e t y l A l c o h o l
I s o p ro p y l M y r i s t a t e
G l yc e r y l M onos tea ra te ( S e l f Emu1 s i y i ng Type)
P o l y o x ye t h y le n e ( 2 0) C e t y l E t h e r
Methyl Paraben
(W) Ajidew N-50
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l
Water
( E ) E t h y l A l c o h o l
Procedure:
1 .
Heat
( 0 )
and
( W )
t o 80C.
2 . Add (W)
t o (0 )
s lo w ly w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
3 . Cool t o 50C w i t h s t i r r i n g and add ( E ) .
4 . F i n i s h m i x i n g a t 35-40C.
pH: 5.1
V i s c o s i t y : 270 c ps
Milk Lotion
0) i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70)
P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)
C e t y l A l c o h o l
S o r b i t a n M o n os t ea r a te
Po l yoxye thy l ene (20 ) So rb i t a n M onoo l ea te
T ocophe ro l Ace ta te
W )
A j i dew T - 5 0
Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure :
1. Heat
0)
nd
( W )
t o 80C.
2 . Add (W)
t o (0 )
w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
3 . C ool t o 42C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 6 . 2
V i s c o s i t y : 25,000 c p s
SOURCE:
A j i nom o to USA, I n c . : Suggested Formulat ions
2 . 0
1 . o
2 . 0
1 . 1
1 . 9
q . s .
3 .0
5 . 0
74.0
10.0
31 .6
4.5
4 . 5
1 . 8
2 . 8
0 .2
4 .0
50.5
0 . 1
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256 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
R e s u l t i n g p ro d uc t i s a h i g h l y abs orbe nt l o t i o n t h a t c an be
d is pe ns ed f r om a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r s o f t b o t t l e . The a lp h a hy dr ox y
a c i d (AHA) c on ta in ed i n t h i s f or mu la i s b u f f e re d l a c t i c a c i d
w i t h a use l e v e l o f a p p r o x im a t e l y 10%. The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s
a c a t i o n i c and n o n i o n ic e m u l s i f i c a t i o n system c o n s i s t i n g o f
Lexemul 561, Lexemul AR and Lexamine 5-13. The c a t i o n i c Lexa-
m in e S-13 enhances t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n a nd
may a c t as an a u x i l i a r y AHA b u f f e r . T he p r o d u c t p ro d uc es mi n-
i m al w h i t e n i n g d u r i n g r u b - o ut
.
A . Deion ized Water
G l y c e r i n
USP
(99 .7%)
Methy lpara ben (Lexg ard M)
2 ,4 -D ich lo ro benz y l A lc oh o l (Myac ide SP)
L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)
67.42
3 .00
0 .20
0 .20
0.60
B . Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S te ar a t e (Lexemul 561) 3 .00
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d) S t e a r a mi d o e t hy l D i e t h y l ami ne
(Lexemul AR) 1.25
Stearami dop rop y l D imeth y l ami ne (Lexami ne 5-13) 0 .50
Ce ty l A l c oh o l (Ado1 52) 0 .50
Capry l i /Ca pr i c T r i g l yc e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 8 .00
I s o b u t y l S te a r a t e ( L e xo l B S ) 1 . o o
Propy lparaben (Lexgard
P )
0.10
C .
L a c t i c Ac id USP (88%)
Sodium L a c ta te (P ur as al S/SP 60%)
5.90
8 .33
Procedure :
1 . Combine sec t ion
" A " .
Beg i n he a t i ng t o 75-80C.
2.
Combine sec t ion B . H ea t t o 80-85C w i t h c o n s t a n t s l o w
a g i t a t i o n .
3. When sect ions " A " and B ar e homogeneous and a t t h e des ig -
na ted t em pera tu res , s l o w l y add B t o " A " . M ix w i t h r a p i d
a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 m in ut es t h e n be g in c o o l i n g .
4. Reduce m i x i n g s peed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g .
5 .
A t
40-5OC, add s e c t i o n
"C"
t o s ec t i on s
" A B " .
ch i s homogeneous and a t 35-40C ad j u s t f o r wa te r
. When t h e ba
7 . M i x t o 30C.
8 . Ad ju s t f i n a
L a c t a t e , a s
l o s s .
SOURCE: I n o l e x
pH t o 3 .5 0- 3. 75 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium
r e q u i r e d .
Chemical Co.
:
F o r m u l a t i o n
398-156-1
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Lotions 257
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
R e s u l t i n g p r od u c t i s a l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be d is pe ns ed f r om
a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r f l e x i b l e b o t t l e . The al ph a h yd ro xy a c i d (AHA)
c on ta in ed i n t h i s f o rm u la i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use
l e v e l o f a pp ro xim at el y 10%. T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a c a t i o n i c
and n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i c a t i o n s ys te m c o n s i s t i n g o f Lexemul 561
and Lexamine S-13. The c a t i o n i c Lexamine S-13 enhances t h e
s u b s t a n t i v i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n and may a c t as an a u x i l i a r y
AHA b u f f e r . T he p rodu c t p roduces m i n i ma l wh i t e n i n g du r i ng
r u b - o u t .
A . Deion ized Water
G1 y c e r i n USP (99 .7 )
H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( C e l l o s i z e PP-4400-H)
6. Methy lparaben (Lexgard M)
2 ,4 -D i ch l o robenzy l A l coho l (M yaci de SP)
L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)
68.50
3 .00
1 - 0 0
0 . 2 0
0 .20
0 .60
C . G ly ce ry l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S te ar a t e (Lexemul
561)
2 . 0 0
Steara mi do pr op yl Dim eth yl ami ne (Lexami ne S-13) 1 . o o
Ce ty l A l c oh o l (Ado1 52)
0 . 5 0
C a p ry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 7 . 00
I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e ( Le xo l B S )
2.00
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10
D .
L a c t i c A c i d (88%)
Sod ium Lac ta te (Purasa l S / S P 60%)
5 .90
8 . 0 0
Procedure:
1 .
Combine sec t ion
" A " .
Beg i n h ea t i n g t o 75-80C.
S i f t
Hydrox-
y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t o v o r t e x i ng w a te r .
2 .
When sect ion " A " i s homogeneous, add se c t i o n 6 t o s e c t i o n
" A " . C o n ti n ue a g i t a t i o n . C o n ti n ue h e a t i n g t o 7 5-80C.
3 . Combine sec t ion "C " . Hea t t o 80-85C w i t h cons tan t s l ow
a g i t a t i o n .
4. When sect ions "AB" & ' IC" a re homogeneous and a t t h e d es ig -
na ted t em pera tu res , s l o w l y add
"C"
t o " A B ' q . M ix w i t h r a p i d
a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 min ute s t h en b e g in c o o l i n g .
5 . Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g .
6 . A t 40-50C, add s e c t i o n "D" t o s ec t i on s "ABC" .
a d j u s t f o r
. When t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-40C
w a t e r l o s s .
8 . M i x t o 3 0C.
9 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3 .5 0- 3. 75 w i t h L a c t i c Ac
L a c t a t e , as r e q u i r e d .
d o r Sodium
SOURCE:
I n o l e x Chemica l Co. : Formula 3 9 8 - 1 5 7 - 2
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258
Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
Banana Hand Lotion
Water
Carbomer 934
Avocado O i l
Rosswax 573
Coconut O i l #76
Ross Jojoba O i l
TE A
Germaben I 1
Fragrance GK-17
GMS-SE
Pa r t s by Wei q h t
568. Ogr
2 . 0 g r
4. Ogr
1 6 . 0 g r
4 . Q g r
1 6 . 0 g r
4 .0g r
4 . Ogr
6 . 0 g r
q . s .
Procedure:
H ea t t h e wa t e r t o 60C u nd er a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y a dd t h e
Carbomer 934. When t h e water i s f u l l y m ixed add th e 573, GMS,
Avocado O i l , Coconut O i l and Jojoba
O i l
t ha t have been hea ted
t o 65C i n se pa ra te k e t t l e . A s soon as the O i l Phase has been
mixed w e l l , add th e Germaben
I 1
and t he n t h e T E A unde r h i gh
a g i t a t i o n , t he n t h e f ra gr an ce . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .
O/W
Lotion
Phase 1:
R o s s Wax 63-0412
Ross Wax 1641
M in e ra l Wax #9
Ross Wax 63-0212
Amerchol L-1 01
Ross Jo joba O i 1
GMS S E
Phase 2 :
T r i et ha no l ami ne
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l
Water
Preservat ive Germaben I 1
Novarome DE-47 Fr ag rance
Procedure:
I n s e pa r at e k e t t l e s b r i n g Phase ( 1 ) and
( 2 )
t o 170F.
t em p er at ur e i s r ea ch ed add Phase ( 1 ) t o ( 2 ) w i t h a g i t a t
Cool t o 120F and package.
SOURCE: Frank B . R o s s C o . , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o rm u l a t i o n s
%
1 . 6
1
o
2.1
1
. o
5 . 2
2 .1
2 .1
1 o
4.7
78 .2
1 . o
q . s .
When
on.
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Lotions
259
Behenyl Hand Lotion
Crodac i d 8, t h a t p r o v id e g r e a t s t a b i l i t y ( 1 month a t 50C). Croda-
mol
PMP
h e lp s t o f o rm u la t e a n o n - o i l y l o t i o n w i t h smooth r u b i n .
T h i s l o t i o n f e a t u r e s t h e c o m b in a t i o n o f I n c r o mi n e BB and
I n a r e d i e n t s :
P a r t A :
I nc rom i ne
BB
(Behenami do pr op yl Di me th yl ami ne)
C rodac i d B (Behen ic Ac id )
Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E the r P rop i ona te )
Dimeth icone
P a r t B :
Dei on i zed Water
P a r t C :
Propy l ene G l y co l ( and) D i azo1
i
i n y l U r e a
Methyl Paraben (and) Propyl Paraben
3.0
2 .5
20.0
3 . 0
70.5
and)
1
. o
Procedure:
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m ix ng and h e a t t o 85-9OC.
Heat Par t B t o 85-QOC. Add Pa r t B t o P ar t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l
t o 45C. Add Par t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera-
t u r e .
N . A . T . C .
Approved
Formula SC-215
Velvet 44-Behenyl Lot ion
T h i s l o t i o n f e a t u r e s a u ni qu e c om bi na t i on o f e m u l s i f i e r s
( I n c r o m i n e BB and Crodac id 8 ) t h a t p r o v i de g re a t s t a b i l i t y
(3 months 13 50C) a nd l e av e a s o f t v e l v e t y f e e l on t h e s k i n .
Crodamol PMP h e l p s r e du c e t h e o i l i n e s s o f t h e m i n e r a l o i l and
promotes a smooth r u b i n .
I n o r e d i e n t s :
P a r t A :
Incro mi ne BB (Behenami do pr op yl Di me th yl ami ne)
C rodac i d B (Behen ic Ac id )
M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu)
Crodamol
PMP
(PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E the r P rop i ona te
S i l i c o n e F l u i d (200 cp s)
DC
200
P a r t 8 :
Dei on i zed wat er
P a r t C :
Germaben
I 1
%
3.00
2.50
15.00
10 .00
1 . o o
67.50
1 . o o
-
Procedure:
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i ng and h ea t t o 85-9OC.
Hea t Pa r t
0
t o 85-9OC. Add Pa rt
B
t o P ar t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l
t o 40C. Add Pa r t C w i t h m i x i n g a n d cool t o d e s i re d
f i l l
tempera-
t u r e .
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested F o rm u l a t l ons
N.A.T.C. Approved
Formula SC-213
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26 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Body Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Phase
A :
Pol y g l yc e ry l - 3 Methy l G1 ucose D i s t e ar a t e (Tego Care 450)
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T eg o s of t CT)
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( Te g o s o f t O S )
Phase 8 :
G l y c e r i n
Water
Phase C :
M i n e r a l O i l
Carbomer 941
Phase
D :
Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 10 % s o l u t i o n )
Phase E
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
Procedure :
1 . He at t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P hase A t o 80C.
2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s
o f
Phase 8 t o 80C.
3 . Add A t o B o r B t o A w i t ho u t s t i r r i n g .
4 . S t i r .
36w w
2 . 0
6 . 5
5 . 7
3 . 0
8 1 . 4
0 . 8
0 . 2
0 . 4
Q . S .
Q . S .
5 . D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r a dd t o A/B. Ho mo gen ize .
6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
7 . Add Phase
D / E .
S t i r .
8 . M ix u n t i 1 v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t ,
Emollient Lotion
O/W
Cold
Process
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Phase A :
PEG-25 G1 y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e (Tagat TO) 0 . 5
M i n e r a l O i l 4 . 0
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o so f t P) 3 .0
P o l y g ly c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l a n
G I
3 4 ) 1 . 5
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s of t CT)
2 . 0
D i me t hi c on e ( A b i l 3 50) 0 . 2
Phase B :
Water 83.6
G1 y c e r i n 3 .0
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Q . S .
Phase C :
Carbomer 934 0 .3
M i n e r a l
O i l
1 . 2
Phase D :
NaOH (10% S o l u t i o n )
0 . 7
Procedure :
1 . Homogenize
A
+ B, o i l p a r t i c l e s i z e t l . 0 urn.
2. Add
C
and
D,
s t i r i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 3 0 m in u te s . T emp era tu re
o f
t he phases A , B, C , D : a r e 2 0 - 2 5 C
SOURCE: Goldschmidt
C h e m i c a l
C o .
:
Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
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Lotions 261
Body Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
Isohexadecane
M in er a l o i l
I s o s t e a r i c a c i d
Ar lamo l E
Cyc lometh icone
Xanthan gum
Water
Sorbo, s o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i on
A r l a tone 2121
* P rese rva t i e
*Perfume
*q . s a t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w
9 . 0 0
5 . O O
3 .00
2 .00
1
. o o
0 . 1 0
73.90
2 .00
4 . 0 0
Procedure :
( C ) a t 75C w i t h v ig o ro us s t i r r i n g . Add ( A) w i t h v ig o ro u s s t i r -
r i n g
or
homogenizat ion. Add (D) and ( E ) u p o n c o o l i n g .
Heat C ) t o 8OC w i t h o cc a si on a l v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add ( B ) t o
Moisturizing Hand Lot ion
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A M in er al o i l
C R - 1 5 a l c o h o l s b e n z o a t e
J o j o b a o i 1
B Xanthan gum
C Water
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
A r l a tone 2121
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e
E
*Perfume
* q . s t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
8 . 0 0
7.00
5 . 0 0
0 . 1 0
70.90
4.00
5.00
Procedure :
(C)
a t 75C w i t h v ig or o us s t i r r i n g . Add (A) w i t h v ig o ro us s t i r -
r i n g o r h o m og e n iz a ti o n. Add ( D ) and ( E ) u p o n c o o l i n g .
SOURCE:
IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat C ) t o 8OC w i t h o cc as io na l v i go r ou s s t i r r i n g . Add
( B )
t o
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262
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lot ion
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u ct i s a p ou r a bl e l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be dis pe ns ed
f rom a g l as s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a
b u f f e r e d a l ph a h yd ro x y a c i d (AHA), L a c t i c A c i d , a t a u se l e v e l of
a p p ro x im a t el y 15%. The f o r mu l a u t i l i z e s a c a t i o n i c a nd n o n i o n i c
e m u l s i f i c a t i o n system c o n s i s t i n g o f L ex qu at
A M G - I S
and Lexemul
561. I n a d d i t i o n t o f u n c t i o n i n g as t h e p r i ma ry e m u l s i f i e r ,
Lexquat A M G - I S , a l s o enhances s k i n s u b s t a n t i v i t y . T h i s f orm-
u l a t i o n o f f e r s a h ig h l e v e l o f a c t i v i t y i n a b u f f e re d fo rm.
A .
B .
C .
D .
E .
w
Dei o n i zed Water 52 30
Methy lparaben (Lexgard M ) 0 . 2 0
2 ,4 -D i ch l o robenzy l A l coho l (M yaci de SP) 0.20
P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP 2.70
L a c t i c A c i d
USP (88%)
0.50
Hy dr ox ye th y l ce l l u l os e ( C e l l o s i z e QP-15,OOOH) 0 .50
I sos tea ram i dop ropy l
PG-Di
moni um Ch lo r i d e (Le xqu at
AMG-IS) 10.10
Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (Lexemul 515) 1 .75
Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul
561 ) 3.40
Propy lene G l y co l D i c ap ry l a t e / D i ca p r a t e (Lexo l PG-865) 2 .50
Ce ty l A l coho l (Ado1 52) 0 .80
Jo j oba O i l ( Go ld en J o j o b a O i l ) 2 . 5 0
M y r i s t y 1 M y r i s t a t e ( C e ra p h yl 42 4) 0 . 8 5
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P ) 0.10
L a c t i c A c id USP (88%) 7.25
Sodium Lactate (Purasal S/SP 60%) 14.35
Procedure :
1 .
Combine sec t ion
" A "
h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. Use p r o p e l l e r m i x er
f o r a g i t a t i o n .
2. S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n t B v t i n t o s e c t i on ' l A " . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g sp eed
t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t h en s lo w t o h i g h es t
speed wh ich does n o t p roduce a vo r t ex .
3 When sect ions " A " and r tB1 ' a re homogeneous and a t t h e des ig -
n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s a d d s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t io n s AB .
4 . Combine s e c t i o n I 'D" . H ea t t o 8 0-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s l o w
m i x i n g .
5. When se ct io n s A8C and s e c t i o n
"DI '
a r e homogeneous and a t
t h e d e s i g i n a t e d te m pe ra tu r es , s l o w l y p ou r s e c t i o n
"D"
i n t o
S e c t i o n s l fABCt l . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g spe ed t o a h i g h s pee d.
M a i n t a i n a t 80-85C f o r 5 mi n ut e s, t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g .
Slow m i x i n g s peed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t
c au se v o r t e x i n g.
m i x i n g and c o o l i n g .
6 . Add sec t i on "E " t o s ec t i on s "ABCD" a t 60-65C. Cont in ue
7 . A t 40-45C a d j u s t f o r w a t er l o s s .
8.
M ix b a t ch u n t i l i t reaches room tem per atu re.
9 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3. 60 -3 .8 0 w i t h L a c t i c A c id o r S odium
L a c t a t e , a s r e q u i r e d .
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
V i sc o s i t y : 2400 cPs
@
24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT,
T A
10 rpm)
pH: 3. 7 24C
SOURCE:
Inolex
Chemical
Co . :
F o r m u l a t i o n 398-99-2
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Lo t ions
263
Deep Skin Cleansing Lotion
M a t e r i a l s : % bv Weigh t
1 . M i n e r a l O i l SUS 65/ 75 5 0 . 0
2. Amerchol L-101 3. 0
3 . Cerasyn t PA 3 .0
4. Tween 20 3 .0
5. S t e a r i c A c i d T . P . 1 . o
6 . P ropy lpa raben 0 .1
7 . Methy lparaben 0 .2
8 . Water (de i on i zed ) 38 .6
9. Borax
U . S . P .
0 . 5
10.Bentone
LT
r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 . 3
11.Perfume 0.3
M a n u f a ct u r i ng D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . P a r t 1 - I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l , add it e ms 1 t h r o u g h 7
and h e at t o 75C. M a i n t a i n t h i s te m pe ra tu r e and s t i r s l o w l y
u n t i l e v e ry th in g
i s
i n s o l u t i o n . B r i n g te m pe r at ur e t o 60C.
2 . P a r t 2 - I n a s e p ar a te s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l , add i t e m 8 and
hea t t o 60C. Add and d i ss o l ve i t em 9. Add i t e m 10 and mix
a t medium speed (1200 rpm) f o r abou t 20
m inu te s, o r u n t i l
c o m p l e t e l y d i sp e r se d , w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g
tempe ra tu re a t 60C.
3 . P a r t 3-Add P a r t 2 t o P a r t 1 s l o w l y an d m i x t o g e t h e r .
4 . Co ol l o t i o n t o 50C an d add i t e m 1 1. S t i r s l o w l y t o room
Formula TS-105
tem pera tu re .
Hand Lotion
Mater 1s ?6 bv Wei qht
1 . Water 87.59
2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 4 2
3 . Propy lene G l y co l 4 .00
4. Methy lparaben
0.10
5. Bentone
L T
r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 .80
6. Cera phyl 424 3.0 0
7. S t e a r i c A c i d T . P . 0.79
8 . P l u r o n i c F-127 1 .oo
9. G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e 2 .00
10.Propy lparaben 0 .10
11.Perfume 0 . 2 0
M a n u f a ct u r in g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . P a r t 1 - I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e te d k e t t l e , add it em s 1
th ro ug h 4 and hea t t o 60C. Us i ng a homomixer a t ab out 1400
r p m ,
a dd i t e m 5 s l o w l y t o a v o i d lu mp s, an d m ix f o r 20 m i nu t e s
o r u n t i l homogeneous. I f foam de ve lop s, add a mi nu te amount
o f Ant i fo am 60 . Heat Pa r t 1 t o 78C.
2 . Pa r t 2 - I n a sepa ra te ves se l , add i t em s 6 t h r oug h 10 and hea t
t o 78C. M i x u n t i l com p l e te l y m e l t e d and homogeneous.
3 . M i x P a r t 2 s lo w ly i n P ar t 1 a t 78C us in g sweep b la des .
4. Co ol t o 50C. Add i tem
10,
m i x and coo l t o room tem pera tu re .
Formula TS-200
SOURCE: Rheox, Inc.: Suggested Formulat ions
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264 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Deep Moistur izing Lot ion
T h i s a f t e r - ba t h l o t i o n g i ve s t h e b e n e f i t s o f p o t e n t s k i n
c o n d i t i o n e r s whi l e e l i m i n a t i n g t h e t a c k in e s s a ss o ci at ed w i t h
l a n o l i n and p e t r o l a t u m t h ro u g h t h e u n i q u e e m o ll ie n c y p r o v i d e d
by Phosphol
i
i d EFA.
P a r t A :
Phosphol ip id €FA
S tea re th -21
Water
P a r t B :
S t e a r e t h - 2
Anhydrous Lano l in
P e t r o l a t u m
O c t y l do d e c y l M y r i s t a t e
C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l
D i meth i cone ( 1OOcS)
%
B Y Weiqht
4 .00
0 .40
82.00
1
. 6 0
1 . 5 0
3 . 0 0
2 .00
4 .00
1 . 5 0
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y a nd h e at t o
65C. Homogenize
( B )
i n t o (A) w i t h c on t i nu ed h e a t i n g u n t i l
s u f f i c i e n t l y m ix ed . S t i r - c o o l t o 45-50C, t h e n add f r a g r an c e ,
c o l o r , and p r e s e r v a t i v e as needed b e f o r e f i l l i n g .
Hand
and
Body Lotion
A s u p e r i o r p r o d u c t d e si gn e d f o r a f t e r - b a t h use on t r a d i t i o n -
a l l y d r y a re as s uch a s hands , e lbows and he e l s . Pho sph o l ip id
€FA
i s
s t r o n g l y s u b s t a n t i v e t ow ar ds s k i n p r o v i d i n g n on -g re as y
m o i s t u r i z i n g and a p le as an t a f t e r f e e l .
Pa r t A :
Phosphol
i
i d EFA
Water
P a r t :
S t e a r e t h - 2
L i g h t M i n e r a l
O i l
C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l
O c t y l d od e cy l M y r i s t a t e
Dimeth icone (1OOcS)
%
by Weiqht
4 .00
83
I 00
2 .00
4 . 0 0
3 . 0 0
2 . 5 0
1 . 5 0
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y a nd h ea t t o
6 5 C .
Homogenize
6 )
n t o ( A ) w i t h co nt i n u ed h ea t i ng u n t i l s u f f i c i e n t l y
m ix ed . S t i r - c o o l t o 45C. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , and p r e s e r v a t i v e
as needed and
f i l l .
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : PHOSPHOLIPID EFA: Sugg es ted
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Lotions 265
Emollient Lotion
I l l u s t r a t e s
t h e use o f Veegum P ro magnesium aluminum
s i l i c a t e
as an emuls ion
s t a b i l i z e r and t h i c k e n e r . The f or mu la i s
des igned
t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e de ve lo pm en t o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e
improvement o f e x i s t i ng ones.
A
Veegum Pro 1.5%
Water
83 .8
B T r i et ha no l ami ne
0 . 1
G l y c e r i n
3 .5
C Marcol 130
3 . 6
P e t r o l a t u m
0 . 4
S t e a r i c a c i d
X X X
1 . 6
C e t y l a l c o h o l
1 . 5
Kessco G l yc er o l Monos teara te SE 1 . 4
A c e t u l a n
2 . 0
Dow Co rn in g 200 F l u i d
0.6
P r e s e r v a ti e q . s .
Heat th e wate r t o 70 t o 75C, then s lo w ly add th e Veegum PRO
Procedure:
w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s he ar . M i x u n t i l smooth.
Add B t o A w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l s mooth. M a i n ta i n A / B a t
70 t o 7 5 C , h e a t C t o 75 t o 00C. Add
C
t o A/0 and m ix u n t i l c o o l .
C o n si s te n c y: Medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n .
Suggested Packaging: Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e .
Comments: Veegum PRO e f f e c t i v e l y t h i ck en s and s t a b i l i z e s
t h e l o t i o n , even a t e le va te d te mp er at ur es . T h is l o t i o n i s
a b so r be d r a p i d l y , l e a v i n g t h e s k i n s mooth a nd g r e a s e le s s .
Hand and
Body
Lotion
I l l u s t r a t e s t h e u se o f Veegum
PRO
magnesium a luminum s i l i c a t e
as an e mu ls io n s t a b i l i z e r and t h i c k e n e r . The f o r m u l a i s de si gn ed
t o s e r ve a s a g u i d e f o r t h e d ev elo pm en t o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e
improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
A Veegum Pro 2.00
Water 70.75
G l y c e r i n 6.00
B Marcal 130 10.00
P e t r o l a t u m 4.00
A r l a c e l 165
5
. OO
Synchrowax A w l - C 1 .25
C
A l l a n t o i n
1
. o o
P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
Procedure:
Heat t h e w a te r t o 70 t o 75C, th en s l ow ly add t h e Veegum PRO
w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h ea r. M i x u n t i l smooth.
Add g l y c e r i n e and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . H ea t
6 t o
75 t o 80C. Add
B t o A and m ix u n t i l c o o l . Add C and m ix u n t i l u n i f o rm .
C o n si s te n c y: Medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n .
Suggested Packag ing : Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e .
Comments: Veegum
PRO
e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s
t h e e m ul si on e ven a t e l e v a t e d t e m p e ra t u re s . G l y c e r i n h e l p s
t o r a p i d l y h y dr a te d r y s k i n and t h e s e l e c t i o n o f o i l s and waxes
p roduces a smooth and non -g reasy f e e l . The a l l a n t o i n p r ov i d es
s o o t h in g r e l i e f f o r wounds, b u rn s, and s k i n p ro ble ms i n g e n e r a l .
SOURCE:
R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o. , I n c , : F or mu la Nos. 417 & No. 4 2 0
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266
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
European O/W Cleansing Lot ion
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A M in e r a l o i l
A r lamo l
E
B Ar l a tone 2121
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
G l y c e r o l
Water
C Carbomer 934 (3% s o l u t i o n )
D Sodium H y d ro x i d e (1 0% s o l u t i o n ) t o pH o f 6 . 5 - 7 .0
E *Perfume
*q . s .
t hese i g r e d i e n t s .
%
15.00
3 .00
2.00
1 .25
1 .25
72.50
5.00
Procedure :
D i sp e r se (C) i n 6 ) a t 75C w i t h mo de ra te s t i r r i n g . Heat ( A)
and add a t 75 w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Homogenize d u r i n g a d d i t i o n
o f (A ) . S t i r v i g o r o u s l y u n t i l c o o l . Add ( 0 ) ar ou nd 50C. Add ( E )
a t be low 35C.
Water/Oil Cleansing Lot ion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A M in er al o i l
Beeswax
Ceresin wax
Sorbo
A r l a c e l 1 8 6
Tween 80
B Water , de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
*q.
s
t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s
15.00
0 .50
0.50
27.00
3 .00
0 . 5 0
53.50
Procedure:
moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add wa te r l o s t due t o evap-
o r a t i n.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat (A ) t o 70C. Heat (B ) t o 72C. Add 8 ) t o ( A ) s l ow l y w i t h
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Lotions 267
Gentle Moisturizing Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
R e s ul t i n g p ro d uc t i s a t h i x o t r o p i c l o t i o n w hich c an be
d is pe ns ed fr om a f l e x i b l e t u b e
or
s o f t p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The
p r od u ct u t i l i z e s a b l en d
o f
tw o a lpha hydroxy ac id s (AHA 'S) ,
and b u f f e r e d c i t r i c a c i d a t a combined u se l e v e l o f a p pr ox -
i m a t e l y 2 .5 %. T h i s p r o d u c t c o u l d b e u s ed as a d a i l y u se
moi s t u r i z i n g AHA p r o d u c t .
w
A . Dei on i zed Water 76.70
Methy lparaben (Lexgard
M)
0 .20
2,4 -D ich lo ro benz y l A lcoho l (Myac ide SP) 0 .20
Hex yl ene G1 y c o l 1
. o o
B . H y dr o xy et hy l c e l l u l ose ( C e l l o s i ze QP-15,OOOH) 1 . o o
C .
Iso s te ara mido pro py l PG-Dimonium C hl or id e
(L ex qu at AMG-IS) 2. 00
D.
Gl yc e r y l S t ea ra te (Lexemu l 515 ) 3 .00
G ly ce ry l S te ar at e (and) PEG-100 Ste ar a te (Lexemul 561) 4 .00
P ropy l ene G l yco l D i pe l a rgona te 2 .10
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (an d) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (an d)
I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l 39 75) 1 . o o
Sesame O i l
2.00
Tocophero l (Cophero l 1300)
0 . 1 0
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P)
0 .10
E . Dei on i zed Water 4 .00
Mal
i
Ac i d (Granu l a r ) 1
.oo
Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC 1.60
Procedure:
1 . Combine s e c t i o n
" A "
h e a t i n g
t o
70-75C. Use a p r o p e l l e r m ixer
for
a g i t a t i o n .
2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n
ftB19
i n t o s e c t i o n " A " . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g sp ee d
t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t he n s lo w t o h i g h es t
speed wh ich does no t p roduce a v o r te x .
3 . When sect ions ' A" &
' l B l l
ar e homogeneous and a t t h e de s i g-
n a t e d t e m p e r at u r e s a dd s e c t i o n
"C"
t o s e c t i o n s AB .
4 . Combine s e c t i o n D . Hea t t o 75-80C w i t h con t i nuous s l ow
m i x i ng.
5. When se ct io ns ABC and s e c t i o n 'ID a r e homogeneous and a t
t h e d e s i g n at e d t e m pe r a tu r e s, s l o w l y p ou r s e c t i o n D i n t o
s e c t i o n s "ABC' I . I nc rea se m i x i ng speed t o a h i g h speed. M ai n-
t a i n a t 80-85C for 5 m i nu t es , t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g
speed t o h i g h e s t s peed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t ca use v o r t e x i n g .
6 . Combine sec t ion
E and m ix u n t i l i t becomes a c l e a r s o l u t i o n .
7 . Add sec t i on E t o s e ct io n s
ABCD a t 60-65C. Co nt inu e m ix in g
and c o o l i n g .
8 . A t 40-45C a d j u s t f o r w a te r l o s s .
9 . M ix b a t ch u n t i l
i t
reaches 30-35C.
10. A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 4 .0 0- 4. 10 w i t h a M a l i c A c i d s o l u t i o n , as
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i 8s:
r e q u i r e d
V i sc os i t y : 4,500 cPs 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA 10 rpm)
24 hour sample.
pn: 4.1 24c
SOURCE: I n o le x Chemica l Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-87-3
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268 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A I s o p r op y l p a l m i t a t e
O l e i c a c i d
S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e p ressed
Atmul 84s
Sorbo
T r i e t ha no l ami ne
Water , de io n i ze d and
. l
p r e s e r v a t i v e
B A l c o h o l , SDA 40
Fragrance
%w/w
2 .00
2 . 0 0
2 .00
3 .20
2 .00
1 . o o
83.30
4 .00
0 .50
Procedure:
c o o l e d t o 45C. D i s s o l v e f r a g r a n c e i n t h e a l c o h o l . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) .
S t i r
t o i n s u r e th or ou gh a g i t a t i o n .
Heat ( A ) t o 95C. A g i t a t e u n t i l a m i l k y e m u ls i on forms and i s
Hand Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A L i g h t m in e r a l o i l
S t e a r i c a c i d
A c e t y l a t e d
1
anol
i
n
A r l a c e l 165
C e t y l a l c o h o l
S i l i c o n e f l u i d , 200 c s
Sorbo , So rb i t o 1 so l u t i on, USP
Methy l paraben
Propy l paraben
B Water
4.00
2 .00
3 .00
5.00
1 - 0 0
1
. o o
78.80
5.00
0 . 1 8
0 . 0 2
Procedure:
t i o n . C ool t o s e t p o i n t a nd ho mo gen ize .
Formula S K - 9
Heat (A ) t o 70C and (6) o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a -
Hand Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A M in e r a l o i l
B r i j 52
B r i j 58
T r i et ha n ol ami ne
Water , de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
B Carboxy v i n y l po lymer , Carbopo l 934
3 0 . 0 0
5 .20
4.80
0 . 2 0
0 .20
59.60
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A ) r a p i d
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Lotions
269
Hand Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A Ar lamol
E
A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0 L
B r i j
72
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
E W a t e r , d e i o n i z e d
Carbopol 934
C
Sod ium hydrox ide (10 W / W aqueous)
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e
*Perfume
*q. s .
t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .
%
8 . 0 0
1 . 7 0
2 . 8 0
2 . 0 0
8 5 . 1 0
0 . 2 0
0 . 2 0
Procedure :
72C and add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S lo w ly add ( C)
and i n c r e a s e sp ee d o f t h e a g i t a t i o n a s n e ed ed . A dd ( D ) and
rep1ace water 1o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n .
Formula AE-9
D i spe r se Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t
(B)
t o 70C. H e at ( A ) t o
Hand Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A S t e a r y l a l c o h ol 5 . 0 0
B r i j 7215 1 . 5 0
B Water , de i on i zed
Carbopol 934
9 2 . 8 0
0 . 2 0
C Sodium Hydrox ide
(10
W / W aqueous) 0.20
D D o w i c i l 200 0 . 1 0
E F rag rance 0 .20
Procedure :
p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) when t h e te mp er at ur e
dr op s bel ow 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r
eva po r a t i o n . Hom ogen ize. Ad j us t pH t o
5 . 5 - 6 . 5
SOURCE:
I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) s l o w ly u s i ng
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27
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g .m .s .
C e t y l a l c o h o l
B S orb o, 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n U . S . P .
Water , de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
C * M i l d a c i d t o a d j u s t pH
* q .
s .
t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w
5 . 0 0
5 .00
5 . 0 0
8 5 . 0 0
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room t em pe ra tu re w i t h s t i r r i n g .
Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h r a p i d
Protective Hand Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A S i l i c o n e f l u i d , 5 0
cs
B r i j 5 2
B r i j
56
T r i et ha no l ami ne
B Carboxy v i n y l po lymer , Carbopol 934
Water , de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .
Heat
( A ) t o
70C. Heat
(5)
o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o
( A )
r a p i d
Protective Hand Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A
S i l i c o n e f l u i d ,
5 0
cs
B r i j
52
B r i j 58
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
B Carboxy v i n y l po lymer , Carbopol 934
Water , de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s .
t he se i n g r e d i e n t s ,
Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat
( 6 )
t o 72C. Add
( 6 )
t o (A) r a p i d
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n .
S t i r
u n t i l s e t .
SOURCE: I C1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
o ow w
1 0 . 0 0
2 .60
4 . 9 0
0 . 2 0
0 . 2 0
8 2 . 1 0
%w/w
10.00
4 . 0 0
3 .60
0.20
0 . 2 0
8 2 . 0 0
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Lot ions 271
Hand Lotion
Ma te r i a1s :
%
by Wei n h t
P a r t A :
1. De i on i zed Water 85 .89
2 . T r i e th ano l ami ne 0 .4 2
3 . G l y c e r i n e 4 .0 0
5.
Eentone EW r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 1 . 5 0
P a r t E :
6. Cerap hyl 424 3.00
7 . S t e a r i c A c i d
X X X
0 . 7 9
8 . I so pr op an ol L a no la te D i s t i l l e d 1 . o o
9 . P l u r o n i c F-1 27 1
. o o
10 . G l y ce r y l M onos tea ra te 2 .00
11. Pro py l Paraben 0 .1 0
12 .F rag rance 0 .20
4. Methy l Paraben 0. 10
P a r t C :
M a n uf a ct u ri n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . P a r t A - In a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , add i t e m 1
t o 4 and hea t t o 60C. Us in g a homomixer , add i t e m 5 s l o w l y t o
avo i d l um ps and m i x f o r 20 m i nu tes o r u n t i l homogeneous. Hea t
t o 80C.
80C. M i x u n t i l com p l e te l y m e l t ed and homogeneous.
2 . P a r t B - I n a s e p e r a t e v e s s e l , ad d i t e m s
6
t o 11 and hea t t o
3 . M i x P a r t B s l o w ly i n P a r t A a t 80C u s i n g sweep b l ad es .
4 . Cool t o 50C. Add Pa r t
C ,
m i x and coo l t o room tem pe ra tu re .
5 . V i s c o s i t y o f l o t i o n a f t e r 24 ho ur s s ho u ld be 9100 cp s.
Formula TS-246
Soft Hand Lotion
M a t e r i a1 s: % by Weiah t
1 . De i on i zed Water 84 .1
2. B en to ne LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 . 5
3. G l y c e r i n e 2 . 5
4 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 7
5 .
Methy l Paraben 0 . 1
6 . Ceraphy l 424 1 . 5
7 . I s o c e t y l S t e a r a te 1 . o
8 . A c e t o l 1 . 7
9 . S t e a r i c A c id 4 .0
10 . Lexemul 55G 3 . 4
11 . V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e 7158 0 . 2
12 .Propy l Paraben
0 . 1
13.F ragrance 0 . 2
M a n u f a ct u r i ng D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . U s in g v i g o r ou s a g i t a t i o n , add t h e E e nto ne LT t o t h e w a t e r.
M i x f o r 20 m i n ut e s .
2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 3 t h r o u g h 5 t o S t e p 1, h e a t t o 80C.
3 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , c om bin e i n g r e d i e n t s 6 , 7, 8 ,9 , 10 a nd 12
4. Add t h e O i l Phase t o th e Water Phase .
5 .
Coo l t o 50C, t he n add i n g r ed i e n t s 11 and 13 .
6 . Cool t o 35C and package.
Formula TS-287
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c , : Suggested For mu la t i on s
Hea t t o 80C.
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272
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand and Body Lotion
P a r t 1 :
Water
Carbomer 934
P a r t 2 :
Modul an
I P
Amerchol L-101
GMS
SE
Rosswax 63-041 2
I M
J o j o b a O i l
P a r t
3 :
Germaben I I E
P a r t 4 :
Fragrance
P a r t 5 :
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
%
78.6
0 . 2
1 . 6
3 . 8
0 .8
2 . 1
4 . 0
4 . 0
1 . 6
1 . o
q . s
2 .3
Procedure:
P a r t A :
s t e e l k e t t l e .
P a r t
B:
I n a s ep ar at e h ea te d k e t t l e , heat t h e o i l phase u n t i l a l l
i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m e l t e d . When e v e r y t h i n g i s m el t e d add t h e O i l
Phase t o t h e Wate r Phase . When e ve ry th i n g i s b l ended add t h e
p r e s e r v a t i v e , t h e f r a g r a n c e and t h e Tr i et h an o la m in e w i t h
i nc rea sed ag i t a t i o n . Cool t o room tem pera tu re and package .
D i s p e rs e t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r phase i n a s t a i n l e s s
Jojoba Lotion
P a r t A :
Modul an
Amerchol L-101
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
G l yce ry l M ono S tea ra te Pu re
Rosswax 63-0412
I s o p ro p y l M yr i s t a t e
Ross Jojoba
O i
1
P a r t 0:
Water
Glycer ine Pure Emery 916
T r i et ha no l ami ne
%
1 .s
0 . 8
5 . 0
2 . 1
4.0
4 . 0
1 . 6
74.4
4 . 2
2 . 3
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . When te m p e r a tu r e i s re a ch e d m ix P a r t
( A )
t o P ar t ( B ) ,
and coo l . Package i n co n t a i ne r a t be l ow 120F.
SOURCE:
Frank B .
R o s s C o . ,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hea t Pa r t ( A ) and Pa r t ( B ) i n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l s t o 170F un de r
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Lotions
273
High Petro latum Lot ion
High petrolatum for severely dry, chapped or chafed skin.
O i l
Phase:
Wh i t e P ro tope t
I S
Crodamol
PMP
Voloo
3
Water Phase A :
Dei o ni zed Water
Carbopol 941
1 0 % Sodi um Hyd rox i de Sol u t i on
Water Phase B :
G l y c e r i n
Volpo s-10
Germaben
I 1
%w/w
30.00
1 0 . 0 0
2 . 3 0
4 6 3 5
0.13
0 . 5 2
5 . 0 0
5 . 7 0
q s
Procedure:
Water Phase A :
h e at in g t o 8 0 C . When co mp let e ly d isp er se d, add t h e sodium
h y d r o x id e s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g .
Water Phase B :
When u n i fo rm , add t o water phase
A .
O i l Phase:
Combine a l l components
o f
t h e
o i l
phase, m i x and hea t t o
8 0 C .
When un i fo r m, add th e combined water phases s lo w ly w h i l e m ix in g .
C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t o room temperature.
Charge a v e s s e l w i t h w a t e r and d u s t i n t h e c a rb om er . S t a r t
Combine components i n a sepa ra te ves se l and m ix , hea t t o 8 0 C .
Low Irr i tation Moisturizing Lotion
D i sodi urn 1 a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e
G l y c e r i n
Methy lparaben
C e t y l a l c o h o l
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1
M e t h y l p he n yl p o l y s i o x a n e
Beeswax
Water
0.30%
5 . 0 0
0 . 2 0
2 . 0 0
2 0 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
0 . 2 0
q . s .
t o
1 0 0 . 0 0
SOURCE: Wi tco Co rp . : Pe tro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group : Sugges ted
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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274 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Inar edi n ts
L i g h t m i n e ra l o i l
S t e a r y l a l c o h ol
B r i
j
721, Steareth-21
B r i
j
7 2 , Stea re th -2
Hydroalcoholic Mineral Oil Emulsion
w
8.00
1
. o o
Wate r , de i on i zed
Carbomer 934
Sodium Hydro x ide So lu t i o n (10%)
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
Fragrance
Ethano l
,
SDA-40,
(
190 Proof)
* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
P rocedure :
Heat ( A ) t o 70C and
6)
o 75C w i t h good p
Add ( C ) be low 50C and m ix tho ro ug h l y . Add th e
be low 35C. Rep lace water l o s t due t o evapo ra t
Mineral
Oil
Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A M in er al o i l
A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g .m .s .
B Water , de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
C * M i l d a c i d t o a d j u s t pH
*q.
s ,
t h e s e i g r e d i e n t s .
2 .28
1 . 7 2
66.00
0 .40
0 .40
0 . 00
0.20
20.00
o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n
r em ai n i ng phases
on. Package.
w
10.00
10.00
80.00
Procedure :
t ho ro ug h b u t g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 25C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat
( A )
t o 6OC. Heat (B) t o 62C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h
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Lotions 275
Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion
I n n r e d i e n t s :
A
S t e a r i c ac id , t r i p l e presse d
S t e a r y l a lc o h o l
C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 721s
S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 cs .
B Water , de i on i zed
EDTA
Phenacet i
C Hydrogen pe ro x id e, 27% d i
D *Phosphor i c ac id , 10% C . P
* q .
s .
t h e s e i g r e di e n t s .
Procedure:
u t i o n g ra de
1 0 . 0 0
0 .50
1 . o o
5 . 0 0
0 .50
51 .0 6
0 . 2 0
0 . 0 4
22.20
9 .50
Heat ( A ) t o 60C and (6)
o
65C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) s l ow l y w i t h
m od er at e a g i t a t i o n . Add C ) be low 35C. Rep lace water l o s t
by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5- 4. 0 w i t h d i l u t e ph o sp h or ic
a c i d (10% C .P .) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e
e vo l u t i on o f oxygen.
Formula HC-14
Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 52
B r i j 58
B Wate r , de i on i zed
C Hydrogen pe ro xi de , 35% d
D Pho sph oric a c i d (1O%C>P>
l u t i o n g rad e
a s r e q u i r e d
4 .00
1 . 5 0
3.50
73.06
17.14
Procedure:
t ho ro ug h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C
w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r
l o s t w a te r due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add
( C ) .
A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5- 4. 0
by add i ng 0).
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat
( 6 )
t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) s l ow l y w i t h
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276 Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
Isopropyl Myristate Lotion
I n n r e d i e n t s :
I s o p r o p y l m yr i s t a t e
A r l a c e l 6 0
A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0 L
Wate r , de i on i zed
Carbopol 934
Sodium hydrox ide (10%
W / W
aqueous)
Dow i c i l 200
Fragrance
*q
.
s
.
t h e s e
i
g r e d i
ents
.
B
10.00
1 . 6 0
3 .33
84 .07
0.40
0.40
0 . 1 0
0.10
Procedure:
Heat (A) t o 65C and ( B ) t o 60C. Add (A ) t o ( B ) s lo w ly w i t h
m odera te ancho r t yp e a g i t a t i o n and add (C ) . Add ( D ) a t a b o u t
50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add wa te r t o com pensate f o r l o ss due t o
e v a p o r a t i o n .
Formula PC 8186
Vanishing Lot ion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A Ar lamol I S M L
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
S i l i c o n e o i l (350
cs)
Ar lamol
E
B r i j 700
B r i j 7 2
B Water , de i on i zed
Veegum (5% aqueous s o l u t i o n )
Carbopol 934
4 .00
1 .oo
0.50
1 . o o
2.00
2.00
79.05
10.00
0 .15
C Sod ium hydrox ide (10% aqueous) 0.15
D Germal l
I 1 0 .10
E
He rb al Fr ag ra nc e SL 79-1224, PFW 0 .0 5
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) . Add (D) be low 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add
w a te r t o c ompensate f o r l o s s d ue t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
S OU RC E: I C 1
Su r fa c ta n t s : Suggested F o rm u l a t i ons
Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) w i t h m od era te
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otions 277
Lanolin & Aloe Lot ion
L o t i o n s have a w id e r a ng e o f a p p l i c a t i o n s i n t o d a y ' s c o sm e ti c
m ar ke t. I d e a l l y t h e y s ho u ld l e a v e a smooth l u x u r i o u s a f t e r f e e l
t o t h e s k i n and h e l p a l l e v i a t e such pro blems as d r y s k i n o r
chapp i ng f r om w i nd and sunburn . SC-188 i s an econom i ca l l o t i o n
which a ch ieve s b ot h ends. Crodamol PTC, a n o n - o i l y e s t e r w h ic h
g i v e s a c us hi on y f e e l a t l ow l e v e l s o f a d d i t i o n , a l s o w or ks
w i t h t h e l a n o l i n and l a n o l i n d e r i v e d p r od u ct s t o l ea v e a s a t i n y ,
n o n - g r e a s y , p r o t e c t i v e
f i l m
on t h e s k i n .
I n q r e d ie n t s :
E
P a r t
A :
Super R ef in ed Babassu O i l (Babassu O i l ) 2.00
Corona Pure New La no l i n ( L a n o l i n ) 2 .00
Crodacol CS-50 (C et ea ry l A lco hol ) 1.50
Su pe r S t e r o l E s t e r (C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n o s t e r o l E s t e r s ) 1 . 0 0
Crodamol
PTC
( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r ac a p r y la t e / C ap r a t e ) 0 .8 0
Crodaco l C-95 (C et y l A l co ho l ) 0 .50
Crodarnol MM ( M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e ) 0 .5 0
In cr o po l CS-20 (Cete areth -20) 1 . o o
M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 4.00
S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 0.50
S i l i c o n e L -45 (1OOcps) 0 .30
Pro py l Paraben 0.1 5
P a r t
B :
Deion ized Water
G l y c e r i n
Veragel 2 0 0 Powder
Methy l Paraben
Carbopol 941
Dow i c i l 200
PEG-1 5 Cocami ne
81 -5 5
3 .00
0 .50
0 .30
0 .10
0 .10
0 .20
Procedure :
When c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , a dd t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f
P a r t B and hea t t o 75-8OC. Combine in g r e d ie n ts o f P ar t A
w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 75-80C. Add Pa r t B t o P ar t A w i t h g o o d
m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d
f i l l
t em pera tu re . Ad j u s t pH w i t h
1 .0 % NaOH.
D us t t h e C ar bo p ol 9 41 o f P a r t B i n t o t h e wa te r w i t h m ix i ng .
pH: 6.0+-0.5
V i s c o s i t y : 7,500+-10% (RVT S p in d le #5, 20 rpm 25C)
N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE: C rod a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n S C - 1 8 8 - 2
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278
Cosmetic and
Toiletry Formulations
Lotion
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 7215
S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .
B Water, de i on i zed
C H yd rog en p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g ra d e
w
8 . 0 0
4 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
65.30
22.20
Procedure:
modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) be low 35C. Rep lace water l o s t by
e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 .0 w i t h d i l u t e ph o sp h or ic
a c i d ( 1 0 % C .
P .
) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i net- f o r p o s s i b l e
e v o l u t i o n o f oxygen.
Formula PC-8202
Heat (A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) s l o w l y w i t h
Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 7215
Si1 ;con e o i l , 3 50 c s .
Sorbo
B Water , de i on i zed
C
Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r ad e
w
3 . 0 0
3 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
66.30
5 . 0 0
22.20
Procedure:
modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) be low 35C. Rep lace water l o s t by
e v a p o r a ti o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 .5 -4 .0 w i t h d i l u t e p h o sp h o ri c
a c i d ( 1 0 %
C . P . ) .
Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e
e v o l u t i o n
o f
oxygen.
Formula PC-8203
Heat (A ) t o 60C and (B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o (A ) s l o w ly w i t h
Glossy Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A M i n e ra l o i 1 , C a r n a t i o n
S t e a r y l a lc o h o l
B r i 721s
B r i j 72
B Water , de i on i zed
C D o w i c i l 2 0 0
D Fragrance
w
8 . 0 0
1 - 0 0
2 . 0 0
2.00
86.80
0 . 1 0
0 . 1 0
Procedure:
Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C w i t h good p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n
Add (C) a t 50C and mix th o ro ug hl y . Add
( D )
a t 35C. Add water t o
compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Lo t ions 279
Low Solids lmond Lotion II
Water
Carbomer 934
Rosswax 573
GMS SE
Almond O i 1 - L i p ov al A1M
Coconut
O i l
#76
Jo j oba O i l
T E A
Preservat ive Germaben I 1
Fragrance GG44
Pa r t s by Wei qh t
568 . Ogr .
2 . 0 g r .
4 . 0 g r .
4 . 0 g r .
1 6 . 0 g r .
16 .0g r .
4 . 0 g r .
4 . 0 g r .
6 . 0 g r .
q . s .
Procedure:
H ea t t h e w a te r t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y a dd t h e
Carbomer 934. When th e wa te r i s f u l l y m i xed add t h e 573, GMS,
Almond
O i l ,
Coconut
O i l ,
and Jo joba
O i l
t ha t have been hea ted
t o 65C i n a sepa ra te k e t t l e . As soon as t hey have been m i xed
w e l l add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , t h e f r a g r a n c e and t h e n t h e
TEA
under
h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t h e b a t c h t o 55C, and pa cka ge .
Peach Hand Lotion
Water
Carbomer 934
Rosswax 573
Almond O i 1
L i p o v a l ALM
Coconut O i l #76
Ross Jojoba O i l
T E A
Germaben I 1
Fragrance GK-16
GMS-SE
P a r ts by Wei n h t
568. Ogr
2 Ogr
4 .0g r
4 .
Ogr
16 .0g r
16 .0gr
4. Ogr
4 , Ogr
6 .0g r
q . s .
Procedure :
H ea t t h e w a t er t o 60C u n de r a g i t a t i o n a nd s l o w l y add t h e
Carbomer 934. When t h e wat er i s f u l l y m ixed add t h e 573, GMS,
Almond O i l , Coconut O i l , and Jo joba O i l t ha t have been hea ted
t o 65C i n a s ep a r at e k e t t l e . As s oon as t h e O i l Phase has been
mixed w e l l , add t h e Germaben 11, t h e F ra g r an c e , a nd t h e n t h e
T E A under h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .
SOURCE:
Frank B . Ross C o . , I n c . : Suggested F orm u l a t i ons
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28
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Mi l k Lot i on
L i qui d
Pet r ol at um
Am t er LG- OD
Pr opyl ene Gl ycol Monost ear at e
POE ( 5) Hydr ogenat ed Cast or Oi l ( Emal ex HC- 5) *
POE ( 5) Gl ycer y l Monost ear at e ( Emal ex G M - 5 ) *
But yl Par aben
Am hope LL
Acyl gl ut amat e HS- 11
1, 3- But y l ene Gl yc ol
Met hyl Par aben
Car boxyvi
nyl
Pol ymer
Wat er
Sodi um Hydr oxi de ( NaOH)
*Ni hon Emul s i on Co.
Procedure:
1
Di s s ol ve ( A) at 80C.
2 . Di sso l ve ( C) , and t hen neut r al i ze wi t h
0).
and di sso l ve at 80C.
t o ( A) as m xi ng, and t hen cool t o 30C
3 Add
4 . Add
Note:
( B ) t o
# 2
3 s l owl y
hi s
mi l k
ot i on has l i ght t ouch, and spr eads wel l .
Milk
Lot i on
Mi ner al Oi l
Am t er
LGOD
Pr opyl ene G1 ycol St ear at e
PEG- 5 Hydr ogenat ed Cast or Oi l
PEG- 5 G1 ycer yl St ear at e
But yl Par aben
Am hope LL
Acyl gl ut amat e HS- 11
Car bomer
9 4 1
Sodi
urn
Hydr oxi de
But y l ene Gl ycol
Met hyl Par aben
Wat er
Mi l k l ot i on wi t h smoot h t ouch and good spr eadabi l i t y
4 . 7
2 . 2
0 . 4
1. 3
2. 8
0 . 1
3. 0
0 . 3
5 . 0
0 . 2
0. 2
79. 72
0. 08
5. 00
2 . 0 0
0. 50
1. 50
2. 50
0 . 1 0
3. 00
0. 30
0. 20
0. 08
5. 00
0. 20
7 9 . 6 2
Procedure:
Di ss ol ve Car bomer
941
and s odi um hydr ox i de i n wat er f i r s t .
Add ot her i ngr edi ent s o f ( B ) t o t he s ol ut i on and di s s ol ve at
75- 80 degr ees C. Di sso l ve
( A )
i ngr edi ent s at
80
degr ees
C
and
add ( A) t o ( B ) wi t h agi t at i on. Cool down t o r oom t emper at ur e
wi t h agi t at i on.
SOURCE:
Ajinomoto
USA,
Inc.: Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
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Lotions
281
Milk Lotion
(0 )
L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70)
P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 54-56C)
C e t y l A l c o h o l
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
Squa l ane
N i k k o l
WCB
L a n o l i n
P o l y o xy e t h y le n e ( 1 0 ) L a n o l i n A lc o h o l
Po l ye th y l ene G l y co l ( 6300) M onos tea rate
P o l y o xy e t h y le n e ( 5 ) S t e a r y l E t h e r
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 2 5 ) C e t y l E t h e r
(W) A j i d e w N-50
P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c o l - 1500
Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure:
1 . Heat 0) nd
W )
t o 80C.
2 . Add (W) t o
( 0 )
s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
3 . C ool t o 35C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
p H : 5 . 3
V i s c o s i t y : 2 0,000 c p s
Milk
Lotion
(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70)
Beeswax
S t e a r y l A l c o h o l
I s o p a l m i t y l A lc oh o l
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e
( 1 0 )
G l yc e ry l T r i i s o s t e a r a t e
Po l yox ye t hy l ene (1 5 ) C e t y l E t h e r
W )
Ajidew N-50
Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure:
1. Heat 0) nd W ) t o 80C.
2 . Add (W) t o
( 0 )
s l o w l y .
3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 5.2
V i s c o s i t y : 1,7 00 c p s
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
1 0 . 0
5 . 0
3 .0
2 .0
0 . 5
4 . 0
0 . 5
1 . o
0 . 5
2 .1
2 . 9
3 . 0
3 . 0
6 2 . 5
q . s
10.45
1 . o
1 . 5
1 . 2
2 .35
0 . 8
3 . 0
79 .7
Q . S .
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282
Cosmetic and
Toiletry
Formulations
Mineral Oil Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A M i ne r a l o i l , C a rn a t io n b ra n d
B r i j 72
A r l aso l ve 200L
B Water , de i on i zed
Carbopol 934
20 .00
2 . 7 0
4 .60
71 . 8 0
0.40
C Sodium hydrox ide (10%
W / W
aqueous) 0 . 4 0
D D o w i c i l 2 0 0 1 . o o
Procedure :
a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add ( D ) be lo w 50C. Add ( E )
a t
35C and add
w a te r t o c ompensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Formula PC-8184
Heat (A) t o 70C and 6 ) o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A) w i t h m od era te
Mineral Oil Lotion-O/W
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A M in er a l o i l
B r i j 52 ( C et et h- 2)
A r l a s o l v e 200 L i q u i d ( I s o c e t e th - 2 0 )
B Water , d e i on i zed
Carbomer 934
A r l
aso l ve D M I
C Sod ium hydrox ide-10% aqueous s o l u t i o n
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
o ow w
30.00
5 . 2 0
6 .60
5 2 . 8 0
0 . 2 0
5 . 0 0
0 . 2 0
Procedure :
D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t h e w a t e r and A r l a s o l v e D M I w i t h r a p i d
a g i t a t i o n . Heat (B) t o 65 deg.
C
and (A ) t o 60 deg.
C .
Add
( 6 )
t o
( A) w i t h go od a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) below
5 0
deg. C .
S t i r t o 35 d e g. C and rep l ac e evapora ted wa te r .
SOURCE:
IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Lot ions 283
Mineral
Oil
Free Lotion Contains Ethanol
(20 )
I n s r e d i e n t s :
A Ar l am o l E
B r i j 721s
B r i j 7 2
S t e a r y l a lc o h o l
B Water , d e i on i zed
Carbopol 934
w
20 .00
2 . 0 0
4.00
4 .00
48.80
0 . 4 0
C Sodium hydrox ide
(10
aqueous) 0.40
D Germal l
I 1
0 . 2 0
E Fragrance, H 45756 ( P . R o b e r t e t ) 0 . 2 0
F
Et ha no l , SDA-40 (190 p ro o f )
2 0 . 0 0
Procedure:
b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add C ) . Add (D) when t h e te mp er at ur e
drops be low
5 0 C .
Add (E ) belo w 40C. Add wa te r t o compensate f o r
ev ap o r a t i on . Hom ogen ize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
Hea t (A ) t o 70C and (B ) t o 75C. Add (B ) t o (A ) s l ow l y us i ng
Lotion
I n s r e d i e n t s :
A
C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 7215
B W a t e r , d e i o n i z e d
S or bo , S o r b i t o 1 S o l u t i o n
USP
Carbopol 934
w
1 - 0 0
1 - 0 0
95 .30
2 . 0 0
0 . 2 0
C
Sodium hydrox ide (10 W / W aqueous) 0 . 2 0
D D o w i c i l 200 0 .10
E
Fragrance
0 . 2 0
Procedure:
p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D) when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e
drops below 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r
ev ap o r a t i on . Hom ogenize. Ad j us t pH t o 5 .5 -6 .5
SOURCE: IC1 Sur fac tan t s : Sugees ted F o rm u l a t i ons
Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C. Add (B) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g
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284
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Lotion
Phase A :
P r o t o p e t I S
PPG-15 St e a r y l E th er (Ar la mo l E )
S t e a r y l A l c o h o l
S t ea r et h -2 ( B r i
j
72)
S t ea r e th - 20 ( B r i
j
78)
D i
meth i cone
Phase 8 :
Water
Carbomer 940 (Carbopol 940)
Phase C :
Polyquate rn ium-19 (A r l a to ne PQ220)
Water
T r i e t ha no l ami ne
Percen t
2 . 0 0
2.00
1
. o o
3 . 0 0
1 . 0 0
0 . 1 0
5 0 . 0 0
0 . 1 0
10.00
30.20
0 . 1 0
Phase D :
Germaben I 1 0 . 5 0
Procedure :
D i spe r se Ca rbopol 940 i n wa te r ( B ) and hea t t o 75C. Heat
A
t o 70C. Add A t o B and m ix u s i n g p r o p e l l e r - t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Heat
C t o 70C and add t o AB w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . C ool t o 60C
w i t h a g i t a t i o n a nd add D .
Pomade Lotion
O i l Phase:
P r o t o p e t IS P e t r o l a t u m
Crodamol PMP
Volpo 3
Water Phase A :
Dei o n i zed Water
Carbopol 941
1 0 % Sodium H y d r o x i d e S o l u t i o n
Percen t
3 0 . 0 0
1 0 . 0 0
2.30
4 6 . 3 5
0 . 1 3
0 . 5 2
Water Phase 6:
G l y c e r i n e 5 . 0 0
Vo lpo s-10 5.70
Germaben I 1 9 , s .
Procedure :
Water Phase
A .
Charge a v e s s e l w i t h w a te r and d u s t i n t h e
Carbomer. S t a r t he a t i n g t o 80C. When com p l e te l y d i spe rse d ,
add t h e Sodium H y d r ox i d e s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g .
Combine wa te r Phase B i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l an d m i x an d
hea t t o 80C. When u n i f o r m add t o wate r Phase
A .
Combine t h e o i l phase , m ix and hea t t o 80C. When un i fo rm
add t h e comb ined wa te r phases s l ow l y w h i l e m i x i ng . Con t i nue
m i x i n g t o room t e m p e r a tu r e ,
SOURCE: Wi tc o Co r p . : Pe t ro leum Sp ec i a l t i e s Group : Sugges ted
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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otions 285
Neutralizing Lotion
Inqredi nt s :
A
F o r e s t a l l
B r i j
35 SP
Wate r , de i on i zed
*S tab i 1 e r
B
Hydrogen pe ro x i de , 35%
C * P h o s p h o r i c a c i d
*q . s , t hese i g r e d i e n t s .
w-y
1.40
2 . o o
92 .30
4.30
Procedure :
t o
5 . 0
w i t h ( C ) . O p t i o n a l s t a b i l i z e r s may i n c l u d e s e q u e s tr a n t s
o r a n t i o x i d a n t s .
Formula HC-16
M i x (A ) u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add 6 ) a t 25 deg. C . A d j u s t pH t o 4 . 5
Neutral izing Lotion
I
a r e d i e n t s
:
A Sodium bromate
B r i j 30
P o l y g l y c o l p a l m i t i c amide
Water
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
B * A ce t ic a c id , g l a c i a l
* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
12.00
4 .50
4 .50
79 . o o
Procedure:
Add t h e sod ium b rom a te t o w a te r . S t i r w i t h hea t u n t i l
d i s s o l v ed . Add t h e rem a inde r
o f
( A ) . H e at t o 70-75C. A g i t a t e
c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l c o o l e d t o room t em pe r at ur e. A d j u s t pH t o
6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h
6 ) .
Package.
Formula HC-18
Quick Dry Rol l -On Lot ion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A Cyclometh icone,
DC
344 f l u i d
B r i j 52
B r i j
35SP
B Water , de i on i zed
C Aluminum ch lo rh yd ro xi de , 50% aqueous
12.70
3 . 1 0
0.90
48.30
35 00
Procedure:
Heat (A) t o 70C and 6 ) t o 72C. Add (6) o (A) w i t h a g i t -
a t i o n . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g and s l o w l y add t h e r em ain de r
o f
i g r e d i e n t s .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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286 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Broad Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion with Vitamins*
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A ) Parso l
MCX
Parso l 1789
Parso l
5000
G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e
C e t y l A l c o h ol E x t r a
Dermol 185
Ganex V-220
P r i s o r i ne 3505
B u t y l a t e d H y d r o x y t o l u e n e
Edeta BD
Phenoni p
Amphisol A
E ) Deion ized Water
AMP
10% s o l ' n
C )
Deion ized Water
P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l
Carbopol 981 1% s o l ' n
D) AMP 10% s o l ' n
E ) Deion ized Water
P a r s o l HS
AMP
10%
s o l ' n
F ) V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e
G) Ropufa 25N-6 O i l
H ) Panthenol
I
onceau Red SX 0.2% s o l ' n
J) Par f l ex 49915
w
2 .00
1 - 0 0
0.60
2 .00
2 .00
6 .00
2 .0 0
2.00
0 .05
0 . 10
0.60
1 . 5 0
10 .00
3.97
22.26
5 . 0 0
10 .00
1 . 0 2
20.00
0 .60
1 .80
2.00
2 . 0 0
2.00
0.25
0.40**
Procedure:
Heat p a r t
A )
t o 85C w h i le s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add
p a r t s B ), C) a nd
D )
p re -hea ted t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i ng . Add Pa r t E )
p re -h e at ed t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g ( b e s u r e t h a t t h e P a r s ol HS has
b e e n c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s r em a in , add a s m a l l q u a n t i t y
o f t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o
40C, add p a r t s F ) , G ) ,
H ,
I nd
J).
Compensate f o r water
l o s s
and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o a mb ien t t em pe ra tu re .
Remark
:
* Wh i le no t a sunsc reen , t h i s f o rm u l a t i on sco red an SPF E when
te s t e d acco rd i ng t o t h e FDA/OTC m ethod ( ra ng e - f i n d i n g assay
on s i x s u b j e c t s : I R I Ref. 582627).
pH v a l u e s ho u ld be a ro un d 7 .0 t o p re v e n t r e c r y s t a l l i z a t i o n
o f P ar so l
H S .
* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d p er fu me f o r s u ns cr ee ns . T he f i n a l
SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure : Formu la t i on 08 COS 029
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Lotions
287
O W Lot ion
1 .
2 .
3.
4.
5 .
6 .
7.
8.
9.
10
1 1
A- C Copol ymer
580
Mi ner al Oi l
(70 ss)
Dow
556
Fl ui d
Pr opyl ene G1 ycol D pel ar gonat e
Amer chol 400
Et hoxyol 24
Ar l ac el 60
Tween 60
Propy l -P -Hyd roxybenzoa te
Sor bi t o1
(70%)
Car bopol
941
12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
13. Tr i et hanol am ne
14.
Wat er
W
2 . 0
5.0
1
. o
10.0
2.0
. o
. o
2. 0
0. 1
5.0
0. 5
0. 2
0. 75
69 . 45
Pr ocedur e:
Di sper se Car bopol
i n
wat er . Wei gh
1- 9
and heat t o 80- 9OC
wi t h s l ow agi t a t i on. Add r emai ni ng
i
ngr edi ent s t o Car bopol / wat er
di s per s i on, exc ept t r i et hanol am ne, and heat t o 80-9OC. Add t he
wat er phase t o t he aqueous phase and shear
i n
homom xer .
Cont i nue shear i ng whi l e cool i ng t o 40C, t hen add t r i et hanol am ne,
m xi ng wel l . Cool t o 30C, add per f ume, de- aer at e and package.
Ref :
5189-2-7
O/W Lotion
1 .
2 .
3.
4.
5.
6 .
7.
8 .
A- C Copol ymer 580
Di s t i l l ed I s opr opyl L anol at e
Dow
556
Fl ui d
Pr opyl ene Gl ycol Di pel ar gonat e
Et hoxyol
24
Ar l acel
60
Tween 60
P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e
9.
Sor bi t ol
(70%)
10.Car bopol 941
1 1 Tr i et hanol am ne
12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
13. Wat er
w-, o/,
2. 0
3. 0
2 . 0
13. 0
1 . o
1 . o
2.0
0.1
5 . 0
0 . 5
0. 75
0 2
69 . 45
Pr ocedur e:
Di sper se Car bopol
i n
wat er . Wei gh
1-8
and heat t o
80-9OC
wi t h s l ow agi t a t i on. Add r emai ni ng i ngr edi ent s t o Car bopol / wat er
di sper s i on, except t r i et hanol am ne, and heat t o 80- 9OC. Add t he
wat er phase t o t he aqueous phase and s hear
i n
homom xer . Cont i nue
s hear i ng whi l e c ool i ng t o 40C, t hen add t r i et hanol am ne, m xi ng
wel l .
ool
t o 30C, add per f ume, de- aer at e and package.
Ref : 51 89-2-8
SOURCE:
Al l i ed Si gnal
I n c . :
Suggest ed For mul at i ons
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88
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Lot ion
1
A- C Pol yet hy l ene 617
2. A- C Copol ymer 540
3 . Mi ner al Oi l ( 70 s s )
4. Dow 556 Fl ui d
5. Pr opyl ene G1 ycol D i pel ar gonat e
6. Hydr oxy01
7.
Et hoxyol 24
8.
Ar l acel
60
9.
Tween
60
10.Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
W
. %
1 . o
. o
5. 0
. o
10. 5
2 . 0
. 0
1. 3
1. 8
0. 1
11. Sor bi t ol
( 70
5 0
12. Car bopol
941
0. 25
13 Ger mal l 115 0 . 4
14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
0. 2
15 . Tr i et hanol am ne 0. 75
16. Wat er
68. 8
Pr ocedur e:
Di sper se Car bopol
i n
wat er . Wei gh
1- 10
and heat t o 80- 9OC
wi t h sl ow agi t at 1 on. Add r emai
ni ng i
ngr edi ent s t o Car bopol /
wat er di s per s i on, exc ept t r i et hanol am ne,
and
heat
o
80- 9OC.
Add t he wax phase t o t he aqueous phas e and s hear
i n
homom xer .
Cont i nue shear i ng whi l e cool i ng t o 40C, t hen add t r et hanol am ne,
m xi ng wel l Cool t o 30C, add per f ume, deaer at e and package.
Ref
:
51 89- 2- 5
O/W Lotion
1 A- C Copol ymer 540
2. Mi ner al Oi l ,
70 ss
3 . Gl yc er i ne
4. I s opr opyl Pal m t at e
5. Anhydr ous Lanol i n
6 . Ar l ac el 165
7. Pr opyl - P - Hydr oxybenzoat e
W
. %
2. 0
10. 0
5. 0
10. 0
3. 0
5. 0
0. 1
a .
TEA 3. 0
9. Tween
60
1 . 0
1O.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
0 . 2
. Ger mal l
115
0 . 2
12. Wat er 60 . 5
Pr ocedur e:
ar e used, so l vat i on wi l l be much f ast er . Hol d wax bl end at
85- 95C. Wei gh 9- 12 and heat t o 90- 95C.
shear
i n
homom xer or equi val ent . Cool t o 40C whi l e shear i ng.
Add per f ume and package.
Ref : 501 1- 38- 9
SOURCE
Al l i ed Si gnal
I n c . :
Suggest ed For mul at i ons
Wei gh 1- 7 and heat t o 85 - 95C. I f hi gher so l vat i ng t emper at ur es
Pl ace aqueous phase
i n
m xi ng cont a i ner , add wax phase,
and
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Lotions 289
O/W Lotion with -Hydroxy Acids
I n q r e d i e n t s :
Phase A :
Cetea re th -15 (and) G l yce ro l S te a r a te (Tego Care 215 ) 6 .0
M i n e r a l
O i l
4 . 0
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 5 .0
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( T e g o s o ft CT) 5 . 0
S t ea ry l A l coho l (Tego A l kano l 18 ) 5 . 0
Phase 0:
G1 y c e r i n
Water
Phase C :
* -Hydroxy A c id s (20%)*
Per fum e , P rese rva t i ves
3 .0
6 2 . 0
10.0
Q . S .
* s o l u t i o n c o n t a i n s 10% c i t r i c a c i d and 10% m a l i c a c i d . pH
i s a d j u s t e d t o pH 3- 3. 5 w i t h NaOH.
Procedure:
t o 40C. Add Phase C and co o l t o 30C o r l o w e r .
Heat A and B t o 65C and m i x . Homogenize. Co ol w i t h s t i r r i n g
O/W
Lotion
Cold/Cold Process
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Phase A :
PEG-25 G ly ce ry l T r i o l e a t e (Taga t TO)
M i n e r a l
O i l
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS)
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT)
Phase B:
Water
G l y c e r i n
P r e s e r v a t
i
es
Phase C :
Carbomer 934
M i n e r a l O i l
Phase D:
NaOH (10% s o l u t i o n )
Procedure:
1. Homogenize
A
+
8,
o i l p a r t i c l e s i z e t1.0 urn.
2 . Add
C
and D, s t i r i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 30 mi n ute s.
o f t h e Phases
A,
B,
C,
D :
are 20-25C.
%w/w
2 . 0
5 . 5
5 . 5
5 .5
7 6 . 3
3 .0
Q . S .
0 . 3
1 . 2
0 7
Temperature
SOURCE: Gol dsc hmi dt Chemical Cor p. : Sugg ested Fo rm ul a t i o ns
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29 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
O il-In-W ater Body C are Lot ion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a t o n e 9 8 5
B r i j 721
Ar lamol HD
Almond o i 1
B G-2330
P r o py l en e g l y c o l
A1 pa nt ha
Water
%w/w
4 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
10.00
3 . 0 0
1 . 2 5
1 .25
1 . o o
74.00
C *Perfume
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
*q I s .
t h e s e
i
n g r e d i e n t s .
P rocedure :
Heat (A) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y a dd ( B ) t o (A)
w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y . Homogenize a ro un d 40C. Remove f r o m
t h e homogenizer a nd a l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add
( C ) and coo l t o 30C. Package.
Oil/W ater Found ation Lot ion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A r l a c e l 165
C e ty l a1 coho1
L an ol n
T r i e t ha n ol am in e l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Wate r , de i on i zed
%w/w
6 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
0 . 5 0
1
. o o
92.00
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n t o f or m t h e e mu ls io n. C on t i nu e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l
t em pe ra tu re d rops be l ow 60 deg. C .
H ea t i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r t o 9OC. Use c o n t i n u o u s v i g o r o u s
Oil/Water Foundation Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A S y n t h e t ic sperm acet i , Spermwax
A r l a c e l
165
B G l y c e r i n
Wate r , de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
q q . s .
t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .
&4J
5 . 0 0
12.00
5 . 0 0
78.00
Procedure :
moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w at er l o s t due t o
e v a p o r a t i o n .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h
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Lotions
291
O il/W ater Em ol lient L ot ion
In g r e d i e n t s :
A O c t y l d i me th yl PABA
Benzophenone-3
Ar lamo l
E
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
D imeth i cone
A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0
B r i j
7 2
B Water , de i o n i zed
Carbomer 934
C Sod ium hydrox ide
(10 W /W
aqueous)
D
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
*F ragrance
* q , s . t he s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w
7.00
3 . 0 0
7.00
2 . 5 0
1 - 0 0
3 . 1 0
3 . 9 0
7 2 . 1 0
0 . 2 0
0 . 2 0
Procedure :
65C and add ( 8 ) t o ( A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly add ( C )
a nd s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . C ool t o 50C an d ad d makeup w a t e r .
D i spe r se Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t 8) o 60C. Hea t (A ) t o
Oi l /Wate r Em o l l i en t L o t ion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
O c t y l di me th yl PABA
Ar lamol E
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
Dimeth i cone
A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0
B r i j 72
Water, de i on i zed
Carbomer 934
Sodi
urn
h y d r o x i de ( 10% W / W aqueous)
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
*F ragrance
* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .
o ow w
5.00
7 .00
2 . 5 0
1 .00
3 . 1 0
3 . 9 0
77.10
0 . 2 0
0 . 2 0
Procedure:
65C and add ( B) t o ( A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly add ( C )
and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . C oo l t o 50C an d a dd makeup w a t e r .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s
D i spe r se Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t (8 ) t o 60C. Hea t (A ) t o
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292 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Perfumed Body Lotion
T h i s creamy body l o t i o n r ub s i n e a s i l y and r e l i e v e s d r yn e ss .
S k i n i s l e f t f e e l i n g s o f t , smooth, and m o i s t u r i z e d . Geahlene
enhances t h e r i c h ne s s and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s
l o t i on.
Innred ient /T rade Name:
Deion ized Water
Carbomer/CarboDol 940
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l
Methy lparaben
Panthenol /DL-Panthenol
M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty le ne /E th y lene /
Styr ene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Eth y le ne/
Pro py le ne/ Sty ren e Copolymer/ /Geahlene 750
P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l
Dicaprylate/Dicaprate//Myritol
PC
I s o s t e a r y l A l c o h o l / P r i s o r i n e 3515
Propy lparaben
C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16
Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te /A r l ac e l 165
Dimeth icone/Dow Corn ing 2 0 0 , 100 cSt
Potass ium C et y l Phosphate/Amphiso l K
T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e / V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e
T r i e th an ol ami ne, 99%
D i azo1 i i n y l Urea/Germal
1
I
Soy Leci th in/Sedermasome
Fragrance
Wei ah t%
67.20
0 .2 0
7 . 0 0
0 . 2 0
0 .10
7.00
7 .00
2 . 0 0
0 .10
2 . 0 0
2.50
0 . 5 0
1 . 7 5
0.10
0 . 1 5
0 . 2 0
1 . o o
1 . o o
Procedure :
D i sp e rs e Carbomer i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i z e d w at e r.
Add rem a i n i ng p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . H eat t o 75-80C and m ix u n t i l
un i f o rm and l um p- f ree . Combine p a r t
B .
Heat t o 80C and mix
u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a re d i s so lv ed . Add p a r t
B
t o p a r t A .
M i x f o r 30 m in u te s w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add p a r t C . M i x u n t i l
co m pl et el y smooth and homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t
D .
Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t
E .
C o n t i nu e m i x i n g a nd c o o l i n g t o 30C.
SOURCE: Penreco : Suggested Form u l a t i on
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Lotions
293
Silk Protein Skin Lotion
1 .
2 .
3 .
4 .
5 .
6.
7.
8 .
9 .
M i n e r a l O i l
Mackester
SP
( G l y c ol S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d )
E m u ls i f y in g Wax N.F.
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e i3 PEG-100 Stearate
P o l y s o r b a t e 80
S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e
G l y c e r i n
Acetamide MEA 100%
Mackpro NSP ( O l e y l / P a l m i t y l / P a l m i t o l e a m i d o p r o p y l /
S i l k hyd rox yp r opy l Dimonium Ch l o r i de )
1O.Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydan to i n )
11 . F ragrance
12. De ion i zed Water
Wei Qht
. %
3.00
2.00
3 .00
2 .00
0 . 6 6
0 .60
2.00
1 . o o
2.50
q s
q s
q s
Procedure :
1 . M e l t 1 ,2 ,3 , 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, i n a s e p ar a te c o n t a i n e r t o 75 degrees C .
2 . I n t h e m i x i n g t a n k h e a t t h e w a te r #12 t o 78 de gr ee s C . and
3 . S t a r t m i x i n g and add t h e h o t m i x t u r e o f 1 t h r u 8 s l o w l y w i t h
4. Then s t a r t s lo w c o o l i n g w i t h good m i x i n g w i t h o u t a e r a t i o n .
5 . A t 45 degrees C . add
#10
and #11 and m ix i n .
6. Check pH and adjust i f needed t o 4 . 8 - 5 . 8 .
7 . M ix u n t i l c o o l .
add
#9.
good a g i t a t i o n and m ix w e l l f o r 20 m i nu tes .
Pearlescent Bath Lotion
Sodi um La ur y l Su l f a t e
Mackanate EL ( D i sod i urn La ur e t h Su l fo su cc i na te )
Mackam 35 HP (Cocam i dop ropy l Be ta i ne )
Mackester S P ( G l y c ol S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d )
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
Macks ta t
DM (DMDM
Hydan to i n )
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Wei a h t ,%
40 .0
30.0
5 . 0
1 . 5
1 . o
0 . 5
100.0
Procedure:
1 .
Add f i r s t f o u r co mp on ents t o w at e r a nd h e a t t o 70C.
2 . B le nd u n t i l EGMS i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d .
3
Add sodium c h l o r i d e and co o l t o 45C.
4 . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e an d d y e .
5 . Cool t o room tempe ra tu re and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group Ltd.: Persona l Care Formu la ry
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294
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Care Body Lotion
T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r ts good s k i n f e e l and has a h i g h q u a l i t y
appearance, t ho ug h t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e
a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s wh ic h a c t a s a h i g h l y
e f f e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n system f o r a l l s k i n t yp e s. A f o rm u l a o f t h i s
t y p e a 1
s o
he1p reduce t r an se p i derma l wate r 1
o s s
.
O i l Phase:
C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l 1618 (P&G)
NF W h it e Beeswax ( K os te r Keunen)
L i g h t M i n e ra l O i l (W i t co )
I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema)
Amerchol L lOl (Amerchol )
Propy l Paraben (Su t t o n )
Water Phase:
Water ( D i s t i 11ed)
Glycer ine (Un ichema)
Po l y e th y l e ne G l yc o l 1450 (Un i on Ca rb i de )
Carboxymethy l C e l l u l o s e (CMC, He rcu les )
Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich)
Sodium Borate (Borax)
T r i et ha no l ami ne
( D o w )
Methy l Paraben (Su t ton)
3 . 5 0 %
1.50%
4.00%
1
.OO%
2 .00
0.20%
76.05%
6.00%
3 . 5 0 %
0.30
0.25%
0.50%
0 *
20%
0.20%
Procedure :
Add t o t h e w a te r p ha se un der a g i t a t i o n , i n or d e r; CMC u n t i l
d i s s o l v e d , t h e n p r o p y l p a r ab e n w h i l e m i x i n g . Add c a r b o p o l, m i x
t i l l homogeneous mak ing su re t h e r e a re no agglo mer at io ns. Then
t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e water phase components can be added, mix
and hea t t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase com ponents, hea t t i l l 75C.
and mi x . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l ph ase t o t h e w at er ph ase un de r a g i t a -
t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a t e mp e r at u re o f 75C. When t h e o i l phase i s
added, c o o l and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r .
Adap t i on
o f
f o rm u la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o du c t :
By r e d u c in g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r al o i l by 2 .0%,
p o l y e th y l e n e g l y c o l
1000
by 0 . 5% and t h e a d d i t i o n o f 2.5%
Es ca lo l 507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream
w i l l
t a k e on an SPF o f
6-8.
The p r o d u c t has t h e same a pp ea ra nc e, s k i n f e e l and s t a b i l i t y .
F ra gr an ce ca n a l s o b e added w i t h o u t a f f e c t i n g t e x t u r e .
SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rm u l a t i on
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Lotions 295
Skin Moisturizing Lotion
Phase
A :
Percen t
P o l y p e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a l a u r a t e ( M i ra n o l E s t e r PO-LM4) 4 .0 0
G l yc e r y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG 100 S te a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165 ) 5 .00
C a r n a t i o n
M i
n e r a l O i 1 3.50
I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e
2 .00
P ropy l ene G l yco l D i pe l a rgona te (Em eres t 2388) 1 - 0 0
Beeswax
2.00
S t e a r i c A c id
1
. o o
S t e a r y l A lc o h o l
0 .50
Cyc lometh icone (Dow Corn i ng F l u i d 344)
0 .50
Phase 8:
Water
Carbomer 934, 3% s o l u t i o n (Carb opol 934)
P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l
Phase
C :
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
Phase D:
Germaben 1 1 - E
6 7 - 7 0
7 . 5 0
3.50
0 . 8 0
1 - 0 0
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Then add Phase C . Cool t o 40C and add Phase D .
Heat Phase A & Phase 8 se pa ra te l y t o 75C and add B t o A w i t h
Dry Skin Lot ion
Phase
A :
C e t y l A l c o h o l
E s t o l EHP 1543
Tr i ven t NP-13
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l
O i
1
DC S i l i c o n e
B r i j 58
B r i j 20
Phase
8 :
Dei on i zed water
Carbopol 940
Dermacry l -79
P r i c e r ine 9083
Tr th an o l ami ne (99%)
Phase C :
Germaben I 1 E
Phase D:
Fragrance
2.00%
2 . 0 0
4.00
1
. o o
1 . o o
1
. o o
1 . o o
81.50
0 .50
1
. o o
3.00
1
.oo
1 . o o
q . s .
SOURCE: Wi tco Co rp . : Pe t ro l eum S p e c i a l t i e s Group : Sugges ted
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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296 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Softening Lotion
%
A . G ly ce ry l S te a ra te (and) PEG-100 St ea ra te (Lexemul 561) 3 .00
G l y ce ry l D i l a u r a te (Lexemu l GDL) 5 .00
Ce te ar y l A1 coho1 (and) Cet ear eth -20 (Lexemul CS-20) 3.0 0
P ropy lene G l y co l D i ca p r y l a te /D i ca p r a t e (Lexo l PG-865) 4.00
M i n e r a l O i l
2.50
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10
B. G l y c e r i n USP 3.00
Dei on i zed Water 76.13
Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0.25
C . Quatern ium-76 Hyd ro l yze d Col lag en (L ex ei n QX-3000) 3 .00
D. 2-Bromo-2-Ni t ro pr op an e- 1 ,3-Di 01 (Le xga rd Brono pol ) 0 . 0 2
Procedure:
1. Heat phase " A " and phase "B " t o 75C.
2. Add phase
" A "
t o phase B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n a t 75C.
3 . C o n ti n ue t o m ix w i t h g ood a g i t a t i o n a nd c o o l t o 50C.
4 . Add phase "C" t o "AB" and mix t i l l homogeneous.
5. When phase "ABC" i s be low 50C add phase D .
6. C o n ti n ue s a g i t a t i o n and c o o l t o 30C, t h e n f i l l .
Formula 297-86
Skin Lotion
T h i s m o i s t u r i z i n g l o t i o n a p p l i e s e f f o r t l e s s l y . The L exorez
100 adds an e l ega n t s k i n f e e l wh i ch a l s o may ac t as a p ro te c t an t
a i d .
9
A .
Oc ty l S t ea ra te (Lexo l EHS) 7 .50
Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul 561) 3 .5 0
G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro ss po ly me r
(Lexorez
100)
2 .0 0
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .05
B. Carbomer (Ca rbo pol 941) 0.3 0
Tr ie th an ol am in e NF (99%) 0.20
Methy lpara ben (Lexg ard M) 0 .1 5
Dei on i zed Water 86.30
Procedure :
1 . Hea t wa te r t o 70C and com bine i ng re d i e n t s o f Phase
B q l .
M i x
u n t i l a l l o f t h e Carbomer i s i n s o l u t i o n .
2 . I n a sepa ra te vesse l , m e l t componen ts
q f
phase " A " t o g e t h e r .
Heat t o 70C.
3 . S lo w l y add phase
A
t o phase B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x
w e l l u n t i l homogeneous.
4 . Be gin t o c o o l . Co nt inu e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l m i x tu r e i s a t ambien t
t e m p e r a t u r e t h e n
f i l l .
5 . A d j u s t f o r wa te r loss.
Formula SK-114
SOURCE: I no l ex Chem i ca l C o . : Suggested Formulat ions
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Lot ions
297
Sof t S i lky Lo t ion
P a r t ( A ) :
Rosswax 63-0412
Rosswax 1641
Rosswax 63-0212
Ross Lo t i on
O i l
2745
P a r t
( e ) :
Water
Propy lene G lyco l
Germaben I 1
T r i
et h an ol ami ne
P a r t (C):
Fragrance
GMS-SE
1 . 6
1 . 2
1
. o
2 . 1
9 . 4
78.0
4 . 7
1 . o
1
. o
q . s .
Procedure:
Hea t Pa r t (A ) and Pa r t ( B ) t o 170F i n s e p a r a t e s team j a c k -
e t e d k e t t l e s u nd er a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y h ea te d, add P a r t ( A )
t o P a rt (B) unde r a g i t a t i o n . Coo l t o 130F, F rag rance and
package.
Low Cost Low Solids Lotion
Water
Carbomer 934
Rosswax 573
GMS SE
Jo j oba O i
1
Dow Corn ing S i l i c o n e 344
T r i e tha no l ami ne
Perfume
Pr e se rv at iv e Germaben
I 1
P a r t s
bv
Wei q h t
500 .0g r .
4 . 0 g r .
4 . 0 g r .
4 . 0 g r .
3 . 0 g r .
6 . 0 g r .
4 . 0 g r .
q . s .
9 , s .
Procedure:
Hea t t h e wa te r under a g i t a t i o n and s l ow l y add t h e Carbomer
934. When f u l l y mixed add t h e 573, GMS, Jo job a
O i l
and S i l i c o n e
have been b l e n de d i n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e m a i n t a i n i n g a t em p e ra t ur e
of
140F. As soon a s a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s h av e been mi xe d w e l l add
th e p r es e r va t i v es , t h e Pe rfum e, and add t h e TEA, unde r h i gh ag i t -
a t i o n , co ol t o
120F
and package.
SOURCE: Frank
8 .
R o s s Co., I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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298
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Strawberry Hand Lot ion
Water
Carbomer 934
A p r i c o t O i l L i p o v a l P
Rosswax 573
Coconut O i l #76
GMS-SE
Ross J o j o b a O i 1
T EA
Germaben I 1
Fragrance DO-60
Par ts bv Wei qht
568 . Ogr
2.
Ogr
4. Ogr
16 .0gr
4 . 0 g r
16 .0gr
4 .0g r
4. Ogr
6. Ogr
q . s .
Procedure :
H ea t t h e w a te r t o 60C u nd er a g i t a t i o n a nd s l o w l y add t h e
Carbomer 934. When t h e wa te r i s f u l l y m i xed, add t h e 573,
GMS,
A p r i c o t O i l , Coconut O i l and Jo joba O i l t ha t have been hea ted
t o 65C i n a s ep a ra te k e t t l e . As soon as t h e o i l ph ase has be en
mixed w e l l , add t h e Germaben 1 1 , t h e f r a g r a n c e , and t h e n t h e TE A
under h i g h a g i t a t i o n .
Cool
t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .
Apricot Hand Lotion
Water
Carbomer 934
A p r i c o t O i l - L i p o v a l P
Rosswax 573
Coconut O i l #76
Ross Jo joba O i l
T E A
Germaben I1
Fragrance GK-17
GMS-SE
Pa r t s by Wei qh t
568. Ogr
2 .
Ogr
4 . Ogr
16 .0g r
4. Ogr
16 .0g r
4 .0gr
4. Ogr
6 Ogr
9 , s .
Procedure :
H ea t t h e w a te r t o 60C un de r a g i t a t i o n a nd s l o w l y a d d t h e
Carbomer 934. When th e water i s f u l l y m ixed, add t h e 573, GMS,
A p r i c o t O i l , Coconut O i l and Jo joba O i l t ha t have been hea ted
t o 65C i n a s e p a r at e k e t t l e . As s oon a s t h e O i l Phase has been
m ix ed w e l l , add t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y
mixe d, add t h e Germaben I 1 and t h e n t h e TEA u nd er h i g h a g i t -
a t i o n , t he n f ra g ra nc e . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .
SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross
Co.,
I n c , : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Lotions
299
Super Moisturizing Lotion
Th i s s i 1 k y - f e e l i g emu1 s i o n i s t a b i 1 e d a nd t h i c k e n e d u s i n g
a s y n e rg i s t i c com b i na t i on o f Veegum Magnesium A luminum S i l i c a t e
and Rhodigel Xanthan Gum. I t a l s o c o n t a i n s t h e sodium s a l t o f
p y r r o l i d o n e c a r b o x y l ic a c i d as a n a t u r a l m o i s t u r i z i n g f a c t o r
a lo ng w i t h t h e w e l l known h um ec ta nt , g l y c e r i n e . T h i s l o t i o n
s pr ea ds e a s i l y and i s q u i c k l y a bs or be d l e a v i n g t h e s k i n m o i s t
and supp le .
I n Q r e d i e n t :
A
Veegum
Rhodi ge l
Dei o n i zed Water
B Sodium PCA ( 2 )
G l y c e r i n e
C Hydrogenated Po ly i sobu tene ( 3 )
M i n e r a l
O i l
( an d) L a n o l i n A l c o h ol ( 4 )
C e t y l A l c o h o l
I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e
S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e
Po l yso rba te 40
P r es e r va t i v e , Dye, Frag rance
D
C i t r i c A c id t o pH 5 .5
%
bv
W t .
1
. o
0 .5
74 .5
3 . 0
5 . 0
4.0
3 . 0
2 .0
2 . 0
1 . 2
3 . 8
q . s .
q . s .
( 2 ) A j i d e w
N - 5 0
( 3 ) Po l ysyn l ane
( 4 ) Amerchol L-101
P r e p a r a t i o n :
Dry b len d Veegum and Rhod ige l and add t o t h e wate r , m i x i ng
w i t h maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth and un i f o r m . Add B
i n g r e d i e n t s and m ix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . M ix C i n g r e d i e n t s and h e at
t o 50C u n t i l a u n i f o r m c l e a r m i x t ur e i s o b ta i ne d . Add C t o ( A + B )
w i t h h i g h speed m i x i n g . A v o id i n c o r p o r a t i n g a i r . Cool w i t h con-
t i n u o us s t i r r i n g t o 30C and add
D .
C o n s i s te n c y : Medium V i s c o s i t y L o t i o n ( V i s c o s i t y : 1900-2400 c p s )
Suggested Packag ing : P l a s t i c squeeze b o t t l e o r pump.
Comments:
T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u la i s d es ig ne d t o s e r ve a s a g ui de f o r
t h e deve lopment o f new prod uc ts o r improvement
o f
e x i x t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R . T , V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : F o r m u l a t io n N o . 4 3 7
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3 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
TRF Facial Lotion
Phase A :
Cetea ry l A l coh o l ( and) Ce tea re th -20
S o r b i t a n S t e a r a te ( A r l a c e l
6 0 )
S t e a r i c Ac id , t r i p l e pressed
G l yc e r y l S tea ra te (Em eres t 2400)
C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l
C e t y l A c e t a t e ( an d) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h ol
C12-15 A lc o ho ls Benzoate ( F i n so lv TN)
PPG-15 St e a r y l E t he r ( Ar la mol E)
D i methi cone
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l
O i
1
Phase B:
Carbomer 941 ( 2 % Di sp . ) (Ca rbopol 941 )
Magnesi urn Aluminum S i 1i ate (Veegum)
P ot as si um H y d ro x id e ( p e l l e t s )
Te tr as od i um EDTA
G l y c e r i n
Water
Phase C :
T i ssue R es p i r a t o r y F ac to rs (B iodynes TRF)
Germaben
I 1
Fragrance
Percent
0.80
0 .50
0 . 5 0
1 . o o
1.40
0 . 5 0
0 .40
0 . 4 0
0 .20
3 . 0 0
7 .50
0 . 3 0
0 . 1 5
0 . 1 0
3 .00
78 .55
0.70
0 . 5 0
0 .50
Procedure:
Mel t Phase
A
t o 75C. Hea t wa te r t o 70C and d i sp e r se t h e
Veegum. Add t h e Carbopo l s l u r r y and t h e g l y c e r i n and E D T A .
Add t o Phase A and add t h e po t ass ium hydro x ide . Coo l t o 50C
and add Phase
C .
Facial Moistur izing Lot ion (W/O)
I n q r e d i e n t s :
C a r n a t i o n
M i
n e r a l O i 1
A l do MCT
Synthet ic Beeswax
L a n o l i n
Pol y a l do 10-6-0
Deion ized Water
Sodi um B o r a t e
G l y d a n t P l u s
Wt.
40.00
2 . 0 0
10.00
1 .00
2 . 5 0
43.90
0 . 6 0
q . s
SOURCE: Wi tco Co rp . : Pe tro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group : Suggested
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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otions
3 1
Ultra Moistur iz ing Lot ion
T h i s creamy, o i l - i n - w a t e r e mu ls io n i s t h i ck e n e d and s t a b i l i z e d
w i t h a s y n e r g i s t i c com b i na t i on o f Veegum U l t r a and Carbom er. The
w el l - kn ow n h um ectan t g l y c e r i n p e r f or m s t h e m o i s t u r i z i n g f u n c t i o n .
Veegum U l t r a a l s o e nhances t h e w h i te n e s s and b r i g h t n e s s o f t h e
e m u ls i on and h e l p s a d j u s t t h e
pH
t o ap pro xim a te t h a t o f t h e s k i n .
The l o t i o n sp re ad s e a s i l y and i s r a p i d l y absorbed, l e a v i n g t h e
s k i n m o i s t and s u p p l e .
I n a r e d i e n t
:
%
b y
W t .
A
Veegum
U1
t r a (Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1i a t e ) 0 . 15
Carbomer 980 ( 2 ) 0 .1 5
Dei on i zed Water 73. 70
B G l y c e r i n 5 .0 0
C
M i n e r a l
O i l
( an d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ( 3 )
C e t y l A l c o h o l
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
Hydrogenated Po ly i sobu tene 4 )
I s o p ro p y l M y r i s t a t e
S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e
P o l y s o r b a t e
40
D P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e
Sodium H y d r o x id e , (10% S o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 . 0
4 . 0 0
2.00
2 .00
5.00
3 .00
1 .20
3.80
( 2 )
Carbopol 980
( 3 ) Amerchol L-101
( 4 ) Po l ysyn l ane
Dry b l en d Veegum U l t r a and Carbomer and add them s l o w ly t o t h e
Procedure:
w at er w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m ix e r a t 700 rpm. I nc re as e
t h e m i xe r speed t o 1500-1700 rpm and co n t i nu e m i x i ng f o r 30
minutes. Add
B
and m ix 5 m inu tes . M ix C i n g r e d i e n t s a n d h e a t
t o 50C. Hea t (A and
6)
m i x tu r e t o
5 0 C .
Add
C
t o (A and B ) and mix
a t 50C and 1500-1700 rpm f o r 10 m in u te s . S low th e m ixer t o 1000
rpm w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 30C. Add D and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
P ro du ct C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s :
V i s c o s i t y : 2200-2800 cps
pH: 6.0+-0.2
Comments:
the deve lopment o f new pr od uc ts o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g
ones.
SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t C o . ,
Inc.:
Formula
No.
450
T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u la i s de s ig n ed t o s e r ve as a g u id e f o r
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3 2
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Un-Buffered Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
The r e s u l t i n g p ro du ct i s a t h i n l o t i o n t h a t wou ld b e
c om pa t i b l e f o r use i n a g la s s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The
f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a i n s L a c t i c Ac id , as t h e a lp h a hy dr ox y a c i d
(AHA), a t a use l e v e l o f app rox i m a te l y 4 .5%.
A . Deion ized Water
Methy lparaben (Lexgard M )
2 ,4 -D i ch l o robenzy l A l coho l (M yaci de S P )
80.50
0 .20
0 .20
B . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( an d ) S t e a r a mi d o e t hy l D i e t h y l a m i n e
(Lexemul AR)
1 .50
Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul 561) 1 .5 0
G l yc e r y l S t ea ra te (Lexemu l 515)
4.00
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e xo l GT-865)
3 . 00
Steara midop ropy l D imeth y lamin e (Lexamine S-13) 2 .00
M i n e r a l O i l NF ( L i g h t )
2 .00
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P )
0.10
C . L a c t i c A c id (88%) 5 .00
Procedure :
1 . Combine sec t ion " A " he a t i ng t o 75-8OC. Use a p r o p e l l e r m i xe r
2 . Combine sec t ion "B " h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h
3 . When sect ions " A " & "BI I ar e homogeneous and a t t h e d es ig -
4. Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g .
5 . A t 55-60C add s e c t i o n C t o s e c t io n s AB .
f o r a g i t a t i o n .
a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r .
na ted t em pera tu res s l ow l y add "B' l t o " A " , t h e n b e g in c o o l i n g .
6 . A t 45C a d j u s t f o r w a t e r
loss.
7. M i x t o room tem pera tu re .
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
V i s c o s i t y :
700
cPs 24C ( B r o o k f ie
pH:
2 . 3
24C
24 hour sample
SOURCE:
Inolex
Chemical Co. : For mul at
d RVT, T A 10 rpm)
.
o n
398-30-3
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Lotions
303
W/O Lo t ion
A .
Mig lyo l 840 Ge l
B
M i g l yo l 840
M i g l y o l 812
Ar l ace l 481
Ar l ace l 989
I s o p r o p y l m y ri s t a t e
Vase1 i e
6 . G l y c e r o l
Magnesi um s u l p h a te
Carbopol 934
Water
C .
Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
%
4 . 0
7 . 5
5 . 0
3 . 0
5 . 0
5 .0
2 . 0
5 0
0 7
0 . 2
t o
1 0 0 . 0
Prepa ra t i n
:
The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and hea ted t o 75-8OC.
Those o f B . a r e mixe d w i t h a h i g h speed s t i r r e r , h ea te d t o
th e same tem pera tu re and em u l s i f i ed , i n sm a l l amoun ts, i n A .
w i t h t h e h i gh speed s t i r r e r . C . i s added a t a pp r ox . 3 0 C .
Body Lotion
A . M i g l yo l 840
I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s
Marlophor T10
N a
s a l t
C e t y l a l c o h o l
B . H o s t a c e r i n g e l 1%*
K a r i o n F
Water
C . Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
7 . 0
4 . 0
2 . 0
0 . 3
12 .5
5 . 0
t o 100 .0
qs
qs
P r e p a r a t i o n
The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and hea ted t o 75-8OC. Those
o f 6. a r e b r o u g ht t o t h e same t e mp e r at u re and g r a d u a l l y s t i r r e d
i n t o
A . C .
i s i n c o rp o r a t e d a t a pp rox. 3 0 C .
* P re p a ra t io n o f t h e H o s t a c e r i n g e l : H o s ta c e ri n PN 73 1
. O%
Water t o
100.0%
The H o s t a c e r i n i s mi xe d w i t h w a t e r u n t i l homogeneous a nd t h e
m ix tu re s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e g e l i s c l e a r .
SOURCE: H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s for Cosmet ics : Formulas
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3 4 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O Lotion with Eldew
I n a r ed i en ts /T rade Name: YO by Weight
P a r t
A :
D i - ( C h o l e s t e r y l , b e he ny l , o c t y l d o d e c y l )
N-La uroy l -L -g lu tam ic a c i d es te r / E ldew CL-301
2 . 0 0
Ce te a r y l Oc tanoa te 10 .00
C12-C l5 A lky l Benzoate 5 . 0 0
Phenoxyethanol 0 .60
Tocophery l Ace ta te 0 . 0 5
P a r t B :
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (a nd ) C e t y l D i me t hi c on e
Copo ly o l (and) Hexy l Laura te
5 . 0 0
C e t y l D i m e t hi c o n e 3 . 0 0
P a r t C :
Dei o n i zed Water 65.55
Sod i um Ch l o r i de
0 . 8 0
Gl yc e r i n (99 .5%) 5 .00
P a r t i a l l y D e a ce t y l a te d C h i t i n ( l . O % ) / M a r i n e Dew 2 .0 0
Methy lparaben 0.20
Procedure :
A . P r e - m e l t p a r t D by h e a t i n g t o 50 degrees
C .
Add
t o
p a r t C .
S l ow l y add Pa r t
C
and
D
m i x t u re t o P a r t s A and
B
w i t h h i gh
shear m i x i ng .
P a r t
D :
Bu ty len e G1 yc o l 0 . 8 0
P r e - m e l t p a r t A a t 50 degrees Cen t i g rade . Add pa r t B t o p a r t
Appearance: Whi te , smooth, sh in y l o t i o n pH: 6 .0 -6 .5
V i scos i t y : 20 ,000 -20 ,000 ( R V T #6
@
lOrpm @ 25 degrees C)
I n g r e d i e n t s : % Weight
Phase A :
M i n e r a l
O i l 5 . 0 0
Am i te r LGOD 2 . 0 0
P r o p y le n e G l y c o l S t e a r a t e 0 . 5 0
PEG-5 Hyd rog ena ted C as to r O i l 1
. 5 0
PEG-5 G l yc e ry l S te ar a t e
2 . 5 0
A m i
hope-LL 3 . 0 0
Phase B:
A cy l g l utamate HS-1
1
0 . 3 0
Carbomer 941 0 . 2 0
Sodi um H yd ro x i de
0 . 0 8
B u t y le n e G l y c o l 5 . 0 0
Water 79.62
Mild Lotion with Amihope
Bu ty l pa raben 0 .10
Methy lparaben
0 . 2 0
Procedure :
Add a l l o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o t h e s o l u t i o n and
d i s s o l v e a t 75 t o
80
d e g r e e s c e n t i g r a d e .
b o t h ph as es a r e a t BO d eg re es c e n t i g r a d e add A t o B w i t h
a g i t a t i o n .
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Su gg es ted F o r m u l at i o n
D i s s o l v e Carbomer 941 and Sodium H y d r o x id e i n w a t e r f i r s t .
D isso lve Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s a t BO d eg re es c e n t i g r a d e . When
Coo l down t o room tem pera tu re wh i l e co n t i n u i ng m i x i ng .
T h i s l o t i o n h as a smooth f e e l i n g a nd good s p r e a d a b i l i t y .
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Section VIII
Shampoos
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306 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Acid Balanced Conditioning Shampoo
Wei
TEA L a u ry l Su l f a t e (40%)
Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropy l Be ta ine)
Mackalane
426
( I s o s t e a r a m i d op r o p y l M o r p h o l i n e L a c t a t e )
M a cks ta t
DM (DMDM
Hyd a n to i n )
Water , Dye, F rag rance qs t o
Procedure :
1 . Add components t o wate r and hea t t o 40 degrees
C .
2. B len d u n t i l c l e a r .
3 . A d j u s t pH t o 4.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
4. Cool and f i 11.
All
Purpose
Shampoo
ht,96
35.0
10.0
6.0
q s
00 0
Mackadet SBC-8
( M i
I d B len d)
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
M a cks ta t
DM (DMDM
Hyd a n to i n )
Water , Dye, Frag ranc e qs t o
Weiah t ,%
20 .0
qs
q s
100.0
Procedure :
1 . Add Mackadet SBC-8 t o w at er and b l e nd u n t i l c l e a r .
2. Add M a cks ta t DM and a d j us t v i s c o s i t y t o 2000-3000 cps w i t h
3.
Add dy e, f r a g r a n c e , and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .
s odiu m c h l o r i d e .
Aloe Vera Gel Shampoo
A l o e V er a Gel L i q u i d (1:l)
Water
Mackernium
007
( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m
7 )
Mackadet SBC-8 (Mi I d Bl en d)
M a cks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd an to in )
F rag rance , Dye qs t o
Wei q h t
%
5 0 . 0
14.5
3.0
32.0
qs
100.0
Procedure :
1
Disperse Mackern ium 007
i n
wa te r a nd A lo e Vera L i q u i d .
2. Add Mackadet SBC-8 and h ea t t o 45 degrees C .
3. Blen d u n t i l homogeneous.
4. A d j us t v i s c o s i t y w i t h s odium c h l o r i d e .
5 . Add r e m a in i n g com ponents a nd b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .
6 .
Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c In t y re G rou p L t d . : Pe rso na l Care F o rm u la ry
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Shampoos
307
Aloe Vera Shampoo
A .
8.
C .
I n s r e d i e n t s :
D .
I. ater
Al oe V er age l 200 Powder
Sod ium Ch lor ide
H y d r ol y z e d a ni ma l p r o t e i n
Sodi
u m
1 a u r y l s u l f a t e
C i t r i c a c i d
F rag rance
D . M . D . M .
Hyd a n to i n
G e rm al l 115 (p r e se rva t i v e )
R i chami de 1
i
u i d
Pe rce n t
64 .04
0.1
1 .3
1
. o
26 .0
0 .40
0 .1 5
0.20
0.10
6.0
Procedure :
Phase A . Blen d to g et he r . Add Phase
C
a n d m ix t o g e th e r .
Mix Phase ' I A t o g e th e r . M i x Ph a se
Btl
t o g e t h e r and add t o
Aloe Vera Premium-Type Shampoo with Protein
I n n r e d i e n t s :
A l oe V er ag el 1 : l
C y c l o r y l WAT
C y c l o t e r i c BET-C3O
Pepte in 2000
Cyc l omi de DC212S
NaCl
C i t r i c A c i d
Per fum e, P re s e rv a t i ve , Co lo r
Percen t
28 .0
60.0
5.0
1
. o
4 .0
1
.o
q . s .
q . s .
Procedure :
Warm A lo e Ver ag el and
WAT
t o 40C, and b l e n d i n i n g r e d i e n t s
as l i s t e d . A d ju s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaCl a nd a d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c
A c i d .
SOURCE:
D r . M a d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions
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3 8
osmetic nd Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Dandruff Lotion Shampoo
Weight,%
P a r t A :
Veegum
1
. o
Met ho cel FYM
0.8
Water qs t o 10 0. 0
P a r t B :
Sodium O l e f i n Su l f o n a te (40%) 3 5 . 0
Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA) 4 .0
Mackamide S (Soyamide DEA) 1
. o
Mackpro NLP (Qua te rn ium-79 Hyd ro ly zed Anima l P r o t e in )
( N at u ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2 . o
P a r t C:
Z in c Omadine (48%) 4 .0
Procedure :
1 .
Thor ough ly d i s pe r s e Veegum
i n
wate r a t 70 deg rees
C .
2 . Then s l o w l y add Methocel FYM and b le n d u n t i l homogeneous.
3. Add Par t B t o P a r t A and a d j u s t pH t o 6 - 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
4. Add Zi nc Omadine and b l en d u n t i l homogeneous.
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Cream Type
Sod i um L au r y l S u l f a t e (30%)
Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)
Sod ium Ch lor ide
T r i p l e P re ss ed S t e a r i c A c i d
Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA)
P ro p y le n e G l yco l
Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e ( 4 8 % )
Mackami de PK (P al mk erne l ami de DEA)
C au s t ic Soda (50%)
M a cks ta t
DM
(DMDM Hydan to in )
Water, Dye, Fragrance
qs
t o
Weiaht.%
61 . 8
10 .0
7.0
5 .0
4 . 0
4.0
4 . 0
2.0
1 . 6
qs
100.0
Procedure :
1.
Heat s t e a r i c ac i d , Mackamide LLM, Mackamide
PKM
and p ropy lene
2 . Heat
SLS,
Mackam 35HP, Sodium C h l o r i d e , C a u s t i c Soda and wa te r
3 . Add o i l t o w a te r and c o o l t o 55 d eg re es
C .
4. S l o w l y add Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e .
5. Cool t o 45 d e gre es
C .
and add remaining components.
6. F i l l a t 40 de gr ees
C .
SOURCE: Mc In ty re Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Care Fo rmu la ry
g l y c o l t o 70 de gr ee s C .
t o 70 d eg ree s C .
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Shampoos 309
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo
A n t i - d a n d r u f f shampoo: w i t h c o n d i t i o n i n g a c t i o n c o up le d
w i t h n a t u r a l suspens ion r e s u l t i n g i n c o s m e t ic a l l y e l e g an t ,
h i g h l y e f f i c a c o u s a n t i - d a n d r u f f shampoo.
I n q r e d i e n t s :
%w/w
1 .
Sodium Laure th -3 S u l f a t e (S tand -
apo l ES-3) 57.6 9
2 . Pa t i o n i c ISL/8 5* 3 .0 0
3 . R i t a
EGDS
( G l y c o l D i s t o a r a t e )
3 . 0 0
4 . Propy lene G lyco l 2 . 00
5. Zi nc Omadine 2. 00
6 . R i tavena-5 (Hyd ro ly zed Oat F l ou r ) 4 .50
7 . F rag rance 0 .25
8 . Pa t l ac LA (44%) ( L a c t i c Ac d ) 0 .40
9 .
D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 7. 16
*
So d iu m I so s te a ro y l L a c t y
F u n c t i o n
L a t h e r , C l e a n i n g
C o n d i t i o n i n g ,
Deposi t i
n
O p a c i t y , S ta b i 1i y
S ta b i 1i y
A c t i e
Suspensi
on,
C1 ean Feel
Odor
pH Adjustment
- - - -
a t e
@
85% i n P ro p y le n e G l yco l
Compounding Procedure:
Pre-m ix i tem s 1 t o 4 a t 165F. Add i te m 5 w i t h h
m ix i n g . Hyd ra te i t e m 6 i n 210F wa te r . Coo l t o 1 65F
Cool t o 120F. Add perfume and a d j u s t pH and v is c os
Re f .
No.
113-141C
gh sheer
and mix .
t Y .
Cleaning Shampoo Type
Clear viscous shampoo designed for oi ly hair types.
I n q r e d i e n t s :
1 . Ammonium Lau ry l S u l f a t e ( Step ano l
AM
1
apol EA-2)
2. Ammonium La ur et h S u l f a t e (St and-
3. 01 eamidopropyl B et a i ne ( M i r a t a i ne
4 . R i t a l o e 40X (A l oe Vera Ge l )
5 .
P a t i o n i c IS L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l
6 . Kathon
CG
7 . F ra g ra n ce
-
Squeeky Clean #165-047
8. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . )
9. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Wter
BET-0-30)
L a c t y l a t e )
%w/w F u n c t i o n
30.0 0 C1 eani ng, La th er
2 5 .0 0 C le a n in g , L a th e r
6 .0 0
M il dn es s, V i s c o s i t y
0 .5 0
No
S t a t i c F l y - A w a y
2 . 5 0 M i l d n e s s , C o n d i t i o n i n g
0 . 3 0 P r e s e r v a t i o n
0.03 Odor
q .s .pH Ad justment
35 .67 ----
Compounding Procedure:
u n i f o r m i t y . Cool t o 120F and add p r e s e r va t i ve and pe r fu m e.
Ad jus t pH i f n ec es sa ry t o 5 . 8 .
To
t h e w a t e r add i n g r e d i e n t s 1 t o 5 . H eat t o 165F. M i x t o
R e f .
N o .
118-69
SOURCE: R. I .T .A . Ca rp . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
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31 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Dandruff Shampoos
40/39:
Zeteso l 856 T 25.0%
Amphotensid 4 4.0 %
0 i o - s u l p h u r CLR 1 O
Water , perfume, sod ium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
q . s .
t o make 100.0%
0 41/24:
Ze te so l 856T 20.0%
P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75 4. 0%
Condi pon 4.0%
An t i -d a n d ru f f -Usn a t A 0 2.0%
Perfume 0.3%
W at er , s od iu m c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e
q . s .
t o make 100.0%
41/26:
Zetesol 2056
Amphotensid 4
P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175
A n t i - d a n d r u f f - U s n a t
A 0
Perfume
W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i ve
28.0%
8.0%
4.0%
2.0%
0.5%
9,s. o make 100.0%
Shampoos for Greasy Hair
0
40/56:
Zeteso l 856 T
M u l s i f a n RT 275
Pu r to n
SFD
Water , p e rfu me , p r e s e r va t i ve
41/27:
Zetesol 2056
Amphotensid 4
P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l
GM
4175
M u l s i f a n RT 275
Perfume
W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e
30.0%
2.0%
1
.O
q . s . t o make
100.0%
28.0%
8.0%
4.0%
1 .O
0.5%
q . s .
t o
make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH: Suggested Formula t ions
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Shampoos 311
Antidandruff Shampoo
M a t e r i a l s :
1 . Deio n ize d Water
2. Bentone
MA
R h eo lo g ic a l A d d i t i v e
3 . Methoce l E 4M Premium
4. Z i n c Omadine 48%
5. Super Amide GR
6 .
Standapol
T
7 . T r i e th a n o la m in e
8. Co lo r and Fragrance
% bv Weight
48.55
1 . o o
0.75
4.20
4.00
3 8 . 0 0
3 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
M a n u fa c tu r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 .
H eat D e i o n iz e d Water t o 70C, and w i t h r a p i d s t i r r i n g , add
Bentone MA a d d i t i v e s l o w l y and m ix i t f o r 20 m in u te s or
u n t i l homogeneous. M a in ta i n t h e t e m p e ra tu re t h ro u g h s t e p 4 .
s t i r r i n g .
2. Add Methocel and mix i t f o r 15 m i nu t es w i t h c o nt i n uo u s
3 . Add Z i n c Omadine and mix f o r 5 m i n u t e s .
4. Reduce t h e s t i r r e r speed and a t low speed add Super Amide GR.
5 . T u r n o f f t h e h e a t and w h i l e c o o l i n g , add S ta nd ap ol T . M i x f o r
6 . Add T r i e t ha no la mi ne and c o l o r s o l u t i o n , s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l
M ix f o r 10 m i n u t e s .
15 minu tes a t low speed.
m ix ed . A d j u s t t h e w a t e r l o s s and c o o l
i t
t o room te m p e ra tu re .
Add f r ag r a nc e and mix
i t
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c a : F o r m u l a t i o n T S- 261
Protein Shampoo
Deio n ize d Water
Busan 1504
Panthenol
D i sod i um EDTA
C i t r i c A c id
Aloe Vera
200X
Sod i um Laur e th - 2 S u l f a t e
Cocamide DEA
Cocami dop rop yl B e ta i ne
Hyd ro l yze d Co l l a g e n P ro te i n -5 5 %
42.85
0 . 1 0
0.25
0 . 0 5
0 . 2 0
0.05
42.00
4.00
5 .50
5 . 0 0
Procedure :
s o l ve d . F o l l o w w i t h r e m ai n i ng i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown,
m i x i n g w e l l betw een each a d d i t i o n .
SOURCE:
Buckman Lab or a t o r ie s I n c . : Suggested Fo rm u la t i on
Add Busan 1504 p r e s e r v a t i v e i n t o w a t e r , and m ix u n t i l d i s -
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312 osmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Balsam Protein Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A C P
1052 (shampoo base)
Water
Hyd ro ly zed Co l l agen (Hormel -Pepte in 2000x1)
Balsam
B NaCl
Procedure :
B
31.50
67 .20
0 . 2 5
0 . 2 5
0 . 8 0
Add wa te r t o shampoo base w i t h moderate ag i t a t i o n . Add
P r o t e i n and ba ls am w i t h m od er at e a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly a dd s a l t
under f a s t e r s t i r r i n g t o b u i l d v i s c o s i t y .
Formula
C P
1060
Balsam Protein Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A G- 9 6 0 0 (shampoo base)
Water
Hyd ro ly zed Co l l agen (H ormel -Pepte in 2000x1)
Balsam
B * P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q .
s . t h e s e i g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure :
P r o t e i n and b als am w i t h m o der ate a g i t a t i o n .
Fo rm ul a CP 1067
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F or m u l a t i o n s
Add wa te r t o shampoo base w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add
w 9
31 . 5 0
68 .17
0 .3 0
0 . 0 3
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Shampoos 313
Cleaning Shampoo
Viscous, h i g h foaming shampoo wh ich maximizes c l ea n i ng b y
r em ov in g s t y l i n g and r e s i d u e s fr o m h a i r .
I n g r e d i e n t s :
1 . Sodium (C14-C l6 ) O l e f i n Su l f on a t e
2 . Sodium Lau ry l S u l f a t e 25%
3 . Ri ta m id e
C
(Cocamide DEA)
4. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Mackam 35 HP)
5 . R i tap eg 150 DS (PEG-150 Dis teara te )
6 .
P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r y l L a c t y l a t e )
7 . Kathon CG
8 .
Frag ranc e--N atur e Ha rv est #165-050
9. C i t r i c A c id (50% S o l n . )
10.Sodium C h l or id e (25% So ln . )
( B i o t e r g e AS 40) 20 .00
20 .00
3.00
3 .00
1
. o o
2.50
0 .03
0 . 3 0
q . s .
q . s .
11 . D i s t i 1 e d Water 5 0 .17
F u n c t i o n
C le a n in g , L a th e r
C le a n in g , L a th e r
L a t h e r D e n s i t y
M i
d n e ss
V i s c o s i t y
Mi ldness, Body
P r e s e r v a t i o n
Odor
pH Adjustment
V i s c o s i t y
Ad jus tmen t
Compounding Procedure:
120F an d ad d f ra g ra n ce a nd p r e s e r va t i ve . Coo l t o 95F and a d ju s t
pH t o 5 . 5 a nd v i s c o s i t y a s d e s i r e d .
To t h e w at er add i n g r e d i e n t s 1 t o 6 i n o r d e r a t 165F. C ool t o
Re f. No. 118-18
Cleaning Shampoo
N e u t r a l i z i n g shampoo t o t h o r o u g h l y c l e a n h a i r . Can be u se d
a f t e r r e l a x e r o r h a i r s t r a i g h t en e r t r ea tm en ts .
I aredi nt s : mu n c t i o n
1 . A lp ha O l e f i n Su l f o n a te ( B io te r g e AS-40) 3 7 .5 0 C le a n in g , No
Residue
2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . 00 R i ns e O ut ,
Combing
3 . Ri ta m id e
C
(Cocamide DEA) 3.00 Bu bb le Toughness
4. Frag ranc e-N atur e Ha rv es t 165-050 0.30 Odor
5 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) q .s .p H A dj us tm en t
Compounding Procedure:
i t e m s 3 and 4 and add a t 120F. T horough ly mix and a d j u s t
pH
t o 5 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 5 6 - 2 0
-
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To t h e water a t 165F add 1 and 2 . Cool t o 120F. Pre-mix
Re f .
No.
118-51
SOURCE: R . I . T . A , Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu la t ion s
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314
osmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 26% s o l u t i o n
Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 28% s o l u t i o n
Cocoamphocarboxypropionate,
38%
s o l
Laurami de DEA
Tween
2 0
Water
B F o r e s t a l l
C
* C i t r i c a c i d
%w/w
15 .50
15.00
12.50
3 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
50.60
i .40
* q .
s .
t h e se
i
g r e di e n t s .
Procedure :
Add
(B).
A d ju s t pH t o 5 . 0 t o 5 . 5 w i t h ( C ) .
M i x ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and h e at u n t i l homogeneous.
Conditioning Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s :
CP 1052 (shampoo base)
Water
Polyquater n ium-11 (Gafquat 755)
B
Hydroxy p ropy l me th y l ce l l u l os e (Me thoce l E4M)
q . s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .
56w w
31.50
66.84
1 .3 2
0 . 3 4
Procedure :
Add wat er t o shampoo base w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add
p o l y q u a t e r ni u m w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . H ea t
( A )
t o
8OC
and
s l o w l y add hy dr ox yp ro py l m e t h y l c e l lu l o s e w i t h f a s t e r s t i r r i n g .
S t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o le d t o room te m pe r at u re .
Formula
PC
1057
Conditioning Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
C P
1052 (Shampoo base)
Water
Polyquater n ium-11 (Gafquat 755)
0 NaCl
%w/w
31.50
67.40
1 . 0 0
0.10
Procedure :
Add wa te r t o shampoo base w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add
G lyce r i n a n d A r l a m o l E w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . H eat ( A ) t o 80C
and add g l y c o l s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g .
S t i r
w i t h medium
a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c oo le d t o room t em pe ra tu re and s t i r N a C l .
Formula CP 1062
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed Fo r m u l a t i o n s
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Shampoos 315
Conditioning Shampoo
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A Polyox WSR
Water
V i t a m i n E
P r o t e i n
NaCl
Panthenol
B
* Co lo r
* P r e s e r v a t
*Fragrance
*q. s . t h e s
G-9600
Procedure :
%w/w
0 .02
71
.38
25.00
1
. o o
1 . o o
0.60
1 . o o
ve
i
n g r e d i e n t s
Add the Polyox
WSR
t o t h e w at er u n t i l c om pl et e l y d i s s o l v e d
w i t h h e a t i f n e ce ssa ry . Add th e re m a in i n g i n g r e d ie n t s .
Conditioning Shampoo
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A G-9600 (Shampoo bas e)
Water
Po lyquatern ium-11 (Gafquat 755 )
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .
B NaCl
%w/w
31
5 0
68.01
0 . 3 0
0 . 1 9
Procedure :
Add water t o shampoo base w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add po ly -
q u at e rn iu m w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly add s a l t and s t i r w i t h
m e d iu m a g i t a t i o n .
Formula
CP
1064
Professional Salon Type Shampoo
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A C P 1052 (shampoo base)
Water
Roche-DL-Panthenol Cos meti c Grade
Calgon Merquat 550
B
NaCl
%w/w
31 3 0
65.40
0 .50
2 . 5 0
0 . 1 0
Procedure :
Add wat er t o shampoo base w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Add
Pa nth en o l and p o l yq u ate rn i u m -7 w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y
add s a l t under f a s t e r s t i r r i n g t o b u i l d v i s c o s i t y .
Formula PC 1058
SOURCE: IC1 Su r fa c ta n t s : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
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316 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo
I n n r e d i e n t s :
P a r t A :
De io ni zed Water
SLES ( 3 m o l )
D i so d i um
E D T A
49.05
40.00
0 . 3 0
Pa r t B :
Inc rom i de L R (L au ra mi de DEA)
5 . 5 0
I n c r o m i d e
CAC
(Cocamide
DEA
Cocoy l Sa rcos ine ) 1 . o o
In cr om i ne Oxi de B A (Babassuami do pr op yl ami ne Ox id e) 2 . 0 0
I n c r o d e t TD-7C ( T r i d e c e t h - 7 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d )
0 . 1 5
P a r t C :
H y d r o t r i t i c u m
2000
(Hy dro l yze d Whole Wheat P r o t e i n )
0 . 5 0
Crodace l
QS
( S t e a r y l d i m o n ium Hy dro xy pro py l Ox ye thy l
C e l l u l ose) 0 . 5 0
Pr opy len e G1 yc ol (and) D i azo1i i n y l U re a (a nd ) M e th y l
Paraben (and) Propyl Paraben* 1
. o o
Procedure :
Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g , and c o ol
b a t c h t o 45C. Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t
C
i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h
m i x i n g . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n .
Co nt i nue m i x i ng and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f
i
1 1 te m p e ra tu re .
Comb ine ing red ien ts o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i ng and h ea t t o 65-7OC.
pH: 5 . 5 + - 0 . 5
V i s c o s i t y :
6 , 5 0 0
cpst-10% *Germaben
I 1
N . A . T . C . Approve d Fo rm ula SH-71
Cold Mix Shampoo w/Crosultaine C-50
I n n r e d i e n t s :
SS
P a r t
A :
Dei o n i zed Water 59 . 85
I n c r o m i d e CA (Cocamide DEA)
2 . 0 0
P a r t
8 :
Tea l
s
25.00
I n c r o m id e BAD (Babassuamide DEA) 1
. o o
I n c ro su l t a i n e C-50 (Co ca mido prop yl Hy d ro xy su l t a i n e ) 8 . 0 0
Croqua t L (L au ry l d i moni
urn
Hydroxyp ropy l Co l 1 agen) 0 . 2 5
C i t r i c A c i d (10% S o ln ) 2 .9 0
P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l ( an d) D i a z o l i d i n y l U re a ( an d) M e t h y l
Paraben (and) Propyl Paraben* 1 . o o
Procedure :
P a r t 6 i n o rd e r w i t h m i x i n g. A d ju s t pH w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d .
Comb ine ing red ien ts
o f
P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Add i n g r e d i e n t s
o f
pH: 6 . 5 t - 0 . 5 *Germaben I 1
N . A . T . C . Approved For mu la SH-78
SOURCE:
Cro da I n c . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
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Shampoos 317
Condit ioning Shampoo
I n n r e d i e n t s :
Phase
A :
Water, Dei o n i zed
Sod ium Lau re t h S u l f a t e (Standapo l ES-1)
Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (St anda pol WAQ-Speci a1 )
Lauramide DEA (Monamid 716)
Quatern ium-22 (Ceraphy l 60)
Quatern ium-26 (Ceraphyl 65)
C i t r i c Ac i d ( F i ne G ra nu la r ,
30
A q . S o l u t i o n )
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
Phase B:
Sodium Hyd ro xy m e th y l g l yc i n a te ( Su t t o c i d e A )
Phase
C :
Frag rance ( F l o r a l Sp ice-NP49)
P ro ce sse d In g re d ie n t :
D &
C
Green No. 5 (0.1% Aq. S o l . )
FD
& C
Green No. 5 (0.1% Aq. S o l . )
50.32
20 I O 0
20.00
3 -00
2.00
2.00
1 .4 0
0.08
0 .4 0
0 . 5 0
0.19
0 .1 1
Procedure :
1 .
Add i n g re d i e n t s i n Phase A w i t h m ix in g, b e i ng c a r e f u l n o t
2 . Cool Phase A t o 40C. Add Phase B w i t h slow m i x i n g .
3. Add i n g r e d ie n t s i n Phase C w i t h m i x i ng u n t i l u n i fo rm .
4 .
Sweep t o 25C.
SOURCE:
ISP
Van Dyk I n c . : Fo rm u la t i on #09843-85-1
t o a e r a t e b at c h , h e a t t o 75C.
Everyday
Hair
Shampoo
I n s r e d i e n t s :
1 A ) Genapol LRO l i q u i d
2
6
Wate r demine ra l i zed
3 Phenoni p
4 Eux yl K-200
5 C ) Genapol AMG
6 S e r i c i n
7
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
8 Fragrance: Adr ian o 0/235970
9 Genagen CAB
10
D ) Sod iumhydroxyd so lu t ion 30
% w / w
35,OO
39,90
0,50
0,30
8,OO
3,OO
3,OO
0,30
10,oo
Procedure :
i t e m 1 . T hen add a nd d i s so l v e i t e m s 5-9 one a f t e r a n o th e r .
A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h i t e m s
10
t o pH 6 -7 .
SOURCE: Pen ta ph arm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. F
Oll.A/05.94
D i s s o l v e i t e m 3 and 4 i n w a t e r ( 2 ) . D i s s o l v e phas e 6 i n
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31 8 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo
A g e n t l e , p e a r l i z e d , m o d e ra t e ly v i s c o u s shampoo t o t h o r o u g h l y
c l ea ns e and c o n d i t i o n h a i r . H el ps m a i n t a i n i d e a l m o i s t u r e
b a l an c e and l e a v e s h a i r w i t h a dded s o f t n e s s , m a n a g e a b i l i t y
and body.
%
by Weight
P a r t A : De io n ize d Water 50 .28
Polyquater n ium-10 (C elq uat SC-240) 00. 25
Pan theno l (d l - Pan t heno l ) 00 .20
Methylparaben 00.15
Cocami dopr opy l Be t a in e ( C y c l o t e r i c BET C-30) 06 .00
G l y c o l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul EGMS) 01
. o o
Sod ium Lau re t h S u l f a t e (Standapo l ES-2) 20 .00
P a r t C : Quatern ium-75 (F in q ua t CT) 01
. o o
Methylchloroisothiazolinone
(and)
M e t h y l o t h i a z o l i one (Kathon CG) 00.08
Fr ag ra nc e (Givauda n #PSC 10,435/6) 00.30
C i t r i c A c i d 0 0 .04
Sodium Ch lo r i de 01 .20
TEA-Cocoyl Glut amat e (Ami s o f t CT-12) 16.00
P a r t
B :
Cocamide DEA (Cyc lomide DC 212/S) 03.50
Compounding Procedure:
D is pe rs e Ce lqua t SC-240 i n t h e wa te r . Hea t t o 70C. Add th e
r e s t o f P a r t A . M ix u n t i l c o mp le te ly u n i fo r m . S t a r t c o o l in g .
A t
60C, add Cy clo mi de DC 212/S. A t 40C, add P a r t C i n t h e g i ve n
o r d e r .
C o l o r: O f f - w h i t e ( p e a r l i z e d )
pH: 5.50
V i s c o s i t y
( @
25C): 5 .000 c ps ( # 4 s p i n d l e
Gentle Shampoo
A
c l e a r , modera te l y v i sc ous shampoo t h a t
l u b r i c o u s l a t h e r and s o f t n es s t o t h e h a i r .
f o r m ul a i s e x t r e me l y g e n t l e and p r o v i d e s e f
w i t h o u t h a rs h s t r i p p i n g .
P a r t A : Deion ized Water
Methy lparaben
L a uro am p ho g lyc in a te (a n d ) T r i d e ce th
(Mi r a n o l MHT)
10 rpm
o r o v i d es
r i c h ,
anced
eans i ng
he pH-ba
e c t i v e c
% by Weiqht
45.55%
00 . 20
30.00
S u l f a t e
TEA-Cocoyl Glut amat e (A mi so ft CT-12) 20.00
So di um Co co yl G1 ut am at e ( A m i s o f t CS-11
)
01 . o o
Sodium PCA (A j i de w N-50) 01 . o o
F ra g ra n ce ( N o v i l l e #8 450 4) 0 0.20
PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e 0 1 . 5 0
P a r t
B :
M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i a z a o l n o n e ( an d)
M e th y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e (Ka th on CG) 00.05
C i t r i c A c id 00 .50
Compounding Procedure:
40C. Add P a r t B .
Hea t Pa r t
A
t o 65C u n t i l co m p le te l y homogeneous. Coo l t o
C o l o r: L i g h t s t r aw
-
c l e a r pH: 5 .65
V i s c o s i t y : 3,750 c ps ( # 4 s p i n d l e '3 10 r p m )
SOURCE: A j i n o m o to USA, I n c . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
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Shampoos 319
Conditioning Shampoo
% bv Wei a h t
Water 45.35
Sodium L a u re th S u l f a t e (2 M o le 26%) 20.00
Sod i um L au ry l S u l f a t e and D i sod i urn La u r y l 20.00
Trisodium Lauroampho PG Ace t a te Phospha te Ch lo r i de 10.00
(Sipon ES2)
Su l fos ucc ina te (Mona te rge 1164)
(P ho sp ho te ri c QL-38)
Dim ethi cone (Dow Co rn in g 200 F l u i d 200 CS) 2.50
G l y c o l D i s t e a ra te (Kessco E th y l e n e G l yc o l
D i
s t e a r a t e ,
Armak) 1
. o o
Cocamide MEA (Monamid CMA) 1
. o o
Sodi um C h l o r i d e 0.15
Procedure :
Cool t o 40C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6.0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add
f r a gr a n ce , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .
Formul a t i n
P r o p e r t s
Ph ys i ca l Appe aran ce: Wh ite p e a r l e d l o t i o n
V i s c o s i t y 25C: 7 ,100 cps
A d d i n g r e d i e n t s i n o rd er l i s t e d w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 70C.
Formul a F-578
Mild Conditioning Shampoo
Water
Monateric CLV
Phosphol i i d EFA
Sod i um La ur y l S u l f a t e (28%)
Sodium L a u re th (2 ) S u l f a t e
% bv Weiclht
3 4 .0
8 . 5
1 . 5
27.0
29.0
Procedure :
c i t r i c a c i d .
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i
ea:
Blend i n o r d e r l i s t e d , a d j u s t pH down 5 . 5 t o 6.0 wi th 50%
Appearance : C lea r L i q u i d
V is c os i t y 25C: Approx im a te ly 17,000 cps .
Formula F-644
SOURCE: Mona In d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
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32 osmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream Shampoo
Wei n h t %
Mackana te LO-Spec ial (D isodium La u r y l Su l f os uc c i na te ) 88 .0
Mackol
16
( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0
B r i j 52 2.0
M a cks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd an to in ) q s
Water , Fragrance
q s
t o 100.0
S o l i d s , %: 40.0
pH ( a s i s ) : 5 . 5
Appearance: P e a r l y Cream
Pro ce d u re :
1 .
Add Mackol
16,
B r i j 52 and wa te r t o Mackana te LO-Special
2 , B1 end u n t i 1 homogeneous.
3. A d j u s t p H t o 5 .5 t o 6.0 w i t h so dium h yd ro x i d e .
4.
Cool t o
50
degrees C . and add Mac ks tat
DM
a n d f ra g ra n ce .
5 . A d j u s t s o l i d t o 4O.Ot-1.0 a t t h i s p o i n t .
6. Cool and f i l l .
and hea t t o 70 deg rees C .
Highly
Pearlescent Shampoo
Sodium L a u ry l E th e r S u l f a t e 60%
Mackamide C (Cocamide
DEA
( 1
:
1)
M a cke ste r SP (G l y co l S t e a r a te M o d i f i e d )
S t e a r i c A c i d
Magnes ium Su l fa te ( 7 H 2 0 )
D i et ha no l ami ne
M a cks ta t
DM
(DMDM Hyd a n to i n )
De ion ize d Water, Fragranc e, Dye qs t o
pH: 7.5-8.0
V i s c o s i t y ( c ps 25
degrees C ) : 1000-2500
Weight ,%
20.0
2 .0
2 . 0
2 .0
6.0
0.67
qs
100.0
Procedure :
1 .
Heat wa te r t o 75 degrees
C .
and add Magnesium S u l f a t e .
2 . D i s s o l v e c o m p l e t e l y t h e n add o t h e r s u r f a c t a n t s and
DEA
t h e n
3 . Keep tempera tu r e a t 70 degrees C . f o r 20 m in ut es s t a r t
4 . A t 35 degrees C . add re ma in de r o f i n g r e d i e n t s and c o o l w h i l e
5 . A d j u s t pH w i t h DEA o r S u l f u r i c A c id d i l u t e d s o l u t i o n s .
SOURCE: M c In t y r e G ro up L t d . : Pe rso na l Care F o rm u la ry
add waxes.
cool
i g s low1y .
m i x i n g t o room te m p e ra tu re
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Shampoos 321
Emollient Shampoo
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A Ar lamo l
E
A r l a c e l 1 8 6
B
Tween
20
C Wate r, de i on i zed
Tensagex EOC-670
D Sodi um Cocoyl Sa rc os i na te
L a u r y l P o l y g l u c o s e
%&&
0 . 5 0
0 . 5 0
4 .00
71 . O O
6 . 0 0
6 . 0 0
8 . 0 0
E
PEG 6000 D i s t e a r a t e 4 . 0 0
Procedure :
Mix (A) and add ( B ) . M i x u n t i l c . le a r and add ( C) s l o w l y .
M i x ( D ) and w i t h s l i g h t h e a t and add t o ( A, B, C) . H ea t t o 65C
and add ( E ) w h i le s t i r r i n g .
Moisturizing Shampoo
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A CP 1052 (shampoo base)
Water
G 1 y c e r ine
Ar lamo l E , I C 1 (PPG-15 s t e a r y l e th e r )
Jo j o b a
O i l
%&&
31.50
66 .50
0 .5 0
0 . 2 5
0 . 2 5
i n an
g l y c o
u n t i 1
Formu
B G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e (S te pa n- Kes sc o E t h y l e n e G l y c o l
Procedure :
D i s t e a r a t e ) 1
. o o
Add wa te r t o shampoo base w i t h m od er at e a g i t a t i o n . Add G l y c e r -
Ar lamo l E w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Hea t (A ) t o 80C and add
s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . S t i r w i t h m e d iu m a g i t a t i o n
c o o l e d t o room t e m p e r a t u r e.
a CP 1059
Shampoo Concentrate
I n s r e d i e n t s :
Ammoni um 1 a u r y l s u l f a t e (St epan o
Water
Cocamidopropy l be t a i ne (Tegobeta
NaCl
C i t r i c a c i d
Cocamide DEA (Monamid 15OADD)
Procedure :
H eat i n g r e d i e n t s t o a b ou t 45C.
AM 1
ne L-7)
w(W
75.59
0 . 3 0
17.78
0 .47
0 . 5 3
5 . 3 3
S t i r each i n g r e d i en t i n one
a t a t i m e i n o rd e r u s i n g modera te a g i t a t i o n .
Fo rm ul a CP 1052
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ugg es te d F o r m u l a t i o n s
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322
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Ethnic Hair Care
Amphoteric Shampoo
(Cold Process)
Clear
I n q r e d i e n t s :
T e t r a s o d i um EDTA
Water
Sodi um La u r y l Su l f a t e
Cocamidopropy l Be ta i ne (Tego Beta ine F)
D ime th ic one Pro py l PG Be t a ine ( A b i l B 9950)
Qu at er ni um-80 (A bi 1 Quat 3272)
D ime th ic one Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183)
PEG-30 G l y c e r y l Lau ra te (Tagat L)
C i t r i c A c i d ( 25% S o l u t i o n )
F ra g ra n ce
Co ca mido prop yl Be ta i n e (an d ) G l y ce ry l L a u ra te
Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y )
Procedure :
1 . M ix i n g r e d ie n t s i n o r d er .
2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .
( A n t i l HS
60)
0 . 1
48.1
2 0 .0
2 5 .0
0 . 5
0 . 3
0 . 5
0.5
Q . S .
5 . 0
Q . S .
t o pH
6
Ethnic Hair Care
Amphoteric Shampoo
(Cold Process)
Pearled
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Te tr as od iu m EDTA 0 . 1
Water 45.1
Sodi um La u r y l S u l f a t e 20 .0
Cocamidopropy l Be ta in e (Tego Be ta in e F ) 25 .0
D im e th i co n e P ro p y l PG B e t a in e ( A b i l B 9950) 0 . 5
Qu at er ni urn-80 (A bi 1 Quat 3272) 0 . 3
D i m e th i c on e C o p ol y o l ( A b i l B 88183) 0 .5
PEG-30 G ly c er y l Lau ra te (Tagat L ) 0 . 5
C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n) t o pH 6
F ra g ra n ce Q . S .
G ly co l D i s te a r a t e (a n d) S te a re th -4 (Tego Pe a r l N 100)
3 . 0
Cocam id op ro py l Be ta i n e (an d ) G l y ce ry l L a u ra te
( A n t i l HS 60) 5 .0
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
(25
S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y ) Q . S .
Procedure :
1 . M ix i n g r e d ie n t s i n o r de r .
2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .
SOURCE: Golds ch mid t Chemical Co rp .: Sug gest ed Fo r m ul a ti o ns
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Shampoos 323
Everyday Family Shampoo
I n ex p en s iv e shampoo u t i l i z i n g P a t i o n i c I S L f o r m i ld n es s
and c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo d e si g ne d t o b e used b y a l l f a m i l y
members w i t h a l l h a i r t y p e s .
I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n
1 . Sodium C14-Cl6 O l e f i n Su l f o n a t e (B io t e rg e
AS-40) 37. 50 Cl ea ni ng
2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 .0 0 M i l d n e s s
3 . Ritapeg 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 3 .50 V i s co si t y
4 . Kathon
CG
0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a ti e
5. Fra gran ce-Baby Powder #165-848 0 . 3 0 Odor
6.
Sodium C h l o r id e (25% So l n . )
q . s .
V i s c o s i t y
7 . Sodium Hydrox id e (20% S o l n . ) q . s pH Adjustment
8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 5 5.6 7
Compounding Procedure:
R i tapeg 150
OS
i n a separa te v esse l t o 165F. Add t o t h e w at er
w i t h good m ix ing . Coo l t o 120F and add f rag ra nce and p re se r v -
a t i v e . Add Sodium C h l o r i d e u n t i l s a l t c u r v e r es po ns e. A d j u s t
pH t o 6 . 5 .
Heat t h e wa te r an d i t e m 1 t o 165F. Hea t t h e Pa t o n i c I S L and
Ref. No. 178-37C
Everyday Family Shampoo
A
m i l d ev er yd ay f o rm u la f o r a l l f a m i l y members.
I n s r e d i e n t s :
1 .
Sodium Laure th -2 S u l f a t e
2 . R i t a m id e C (Cocamide
DEA
3 . R i t o x 35 (L a u re th -2 3 )
4 . Gr i l l o ca m E-20 (Me thy l
G
5 . R i t a c e t -2 0 (Ce tea re th -2 0
6. Promoi s W-32 (Hyd ro1 yzed
7. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . )
8 . P r e s e r v a t i v e
-
Kathon CG
%w/w
F u n c t i o n
(Sta ndap ol ES-2) 25.0 0 Cl ean ing
8 .0 0
3 . 00
uce th -20 ) 3 .00
2.00
C o l l agen) 0 .20
0 .0 3
9 . Frag rance
-
Natu re Harves t 0 .30
10.
D i s t i 1 ed/ De ion i zed Water 58.4 7
q . s .
L a t h e r
Combi ng
M i l d n e ss
Body
Body
pH adjustment
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Odor
___---_
Compounding Procedure:
Heat water t o 165F. Combine i tems 3 ,4 and 5 and heat u n t i l
c l e a r . Add t o t h e w at er w i t h c o ns t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 1
and m ix . Coo l t o 120F. Add i t em 6 . P re -m ix i t em 2 and f r ag r anc e .
Add t o m i x t u r e . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 .
Re f .
N o .
118-85
SOURCE:
R . I . T . A .
Cor p , : Suggested Form ula t i ons
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324
Cosmetic and
Toiletry Formulations
Gel Shampoo
Water
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
Sodium Laureth
( 2 )
S u l f a t e ( 2 5 % )
M on at er ic CAB
Phosphol i i d PTC
Monamid 1089
% by Weight
55 .00
1
. o o
3 5 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
2 - 0 0
2 . 0 0
pH a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0
Procedure :
co m p le te l y d i ss o l ve d b e f o re a d d in g t h e n e x t on e. Add f ra g ra n ce ,
c o l o r i ng, o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .
Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o rd e r l i s t e d making s u r e each one i s
M ild Cond it ioning Sha mp oo
Water
M o n a te r i c CLV
Phosphol i i d EFA
Sod i um La ur y l S u l f a t e (28%)
Sodium Laureth ( 2 ) S u l f a t e
% by Weight
34 .0
8 . 5
1 .5
27.0
29.0
Procedure :
c i t r i c a c i d .
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
B le nd i n or d er l i s t e d , a d j u s t pH down 5 . 5 t o 6 . 0 w i t h
50%
Appearance: C1 ear L i q u i d
V i s c o s i t y 13 25C: Appr ox im ate ly 17 ,000 cp s.
Formula F-644
Conditioning Shampoo
Water
Sodium Laure t h (2 ) S u l f a t e (26%)
Mona ter i c COAB
Phosphol i i d EFA
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
% bv Weinht
31 . O
5 7 .7
9 . 4
1 . 4
0 .5
Procedure :
c i t r i c a c i d . Add fr a gr a nc e s, c o l o r , and p r ? s e r v a t i v e s as
r eq u i r e d and package.
B le nd i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r . A d j u s t pH down t o 5 . 0 wi th 50%
Formula F-621
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
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Shampoos
325
Hair Shampoo
Dilutable Viscous Shampoo (For Customer Dilution 1:4
Rhodaterge DCA
Water
Per fume, Pr es er va t i ve , Dye
Viscous Consumer Shampoo
Rhodaterge DCA
Water
Perfume
C o l o r , P r e s e r v a t i ve
Transparent Shampoo
Water
M i r a c a r e A NK
Frag rance , Dye , P rese rva t i ve
Sod ium Ch lor ide
80
p a r t s
18
2
2 5. 0 p a r t s
7 4 .7
0 . 3
Q . S .
% by Weigh t
6 4 . 5
3 3 . 0
Q . S .
2 . 5
B lend ing Procedure :
i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d .
Cha rg e wa te r i n t o m i x i n g ve sse l and b l e n d b a la n ce o i n g r e d -
Lotion Shampoo
Water
M i r a c a r e A NK
M i rasheen 202
Frag rance , Dye , P rese rva t i ve
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
%
by Weiaht
67 .5
2 5 . 0
5 . 0
Q S
2 . 5
B lend ing Procedure :
i e n t s i n or d e r l i s t e d .
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Fo rm ul at io ns
Charge wa te r i n t o m i x i n g ve sse l and b l e n d b a la n ce
o f
i n g r e d -
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326 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Shampoo Clear
Ampholyt JB 130
M a r l i at 242/28
M a r l i n a t SL 3 /40
D i o n i l O C / K
Lamepon S
Pantheno l
V i t a m in F
Perfume
Colour
P r e s e r v a t i ve
NaCl
Water
Wt%
17.8
13.9
11.4
2 .0
2.0
0 . 2
0 . 1
qs
qs
q s
q s
t o 10 0. 0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .
The componen ts a re m ixed to ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Hair Shampoo
M a r l i n a t 242/28
M ar l i n a t CM 105
Ampholyt JB 130
D i o n i l O C / K
Lamepon S
Panthenol
Hai
r
Complex Aquosom
Camomi
1
e Sp ec i a1
Collagen CLR
P r e s e r v a t i e
NaCl
W S
29.0
14.0
1 0 . 0
3 . 0
5 . 0
0 . 3
0 . 5
2 . 0
0 . 5
qs
as
Water t o 1oo:o
P r e p a r a t i o n
The components a r e m ixed to ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
u n t i l homogeneous. The
p H
i s a d j u s t e d t o
5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet ics: Formulas
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Shampoos
327
Hair Shampoos, Clear
B 40/5:
Z e te so l N L
Purton SFD
Perfume
W ater, s od ium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e
B 40/30:
Z e te so l
2056
Purton SFD
Water , per fume, sod ium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
B40/31 :
S u l f e t a l
KT
400
Amphotensid GB 2009
Purton CFD
Water , p e r fu m e, p re se r va t i ve
40.0%
1 O
0.5
a . s . t o make 100.0%
30.0%
1.0%
q . s .
t o make 100.0%
37.0%
10.0%
2.0
q.s . t o make 100.0%
B 4 0 / 5 0 :
Ex tr ak t 52 27 .0%
Amphotensid
B
4 12.0%
P u r t o n SFD 0.5%
E x t r a c t s o f p l a n t s , aqueous (10% )
2.0
Water , p e rfu me , p r e s e r va t i ve
q . s .
t o make 100.0%
Hair Shampoos, Pearlescent
0 41/1;
Ze teso l 856 T
P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175
Perfume
W at er , s od iu m c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e
B
41/3:
S u l f e t a l KT 400
P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75
Amphotensid B 4
Water , pe r fume , sodium c h lo r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
20.0
4.0%
0.3
q . s . t o make 100.0%
25.0
8.0
9 . 0 %
q.s . t o make 100.0%
B
41/25:
Zetesol 2056 2 8 . 0 %
Amphotensid
0
4
8.0%
P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l
GM
4175 4.0%
Perfume
0.5
W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: Suggested Formulas
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328
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Shampoo with Condit ioner
M a r l i at 242/28
M a r l i n a t CM 105
Ampholyt
JB
130
Mar lamid
D F
1218
Lamepon S
M a r l a z i n KC 30/50
Pant henol
V i t a m i n F
Perfume
C o l o u r
P r e s e r v a t
NaCl
Water
v e
3 5 .0
1 0 . 0
5 . 0
2 . 0
2 . 0
1 . 6
0 . 2
0 . 1
qs
IS
qs
qs
t o 1 0 0 . 0
P r e p a r a t i - n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5- 6 .5 .
The components a r e m i xe d to g e th e r i n seq uen ce an d s t i r r e d
Hair Shampoo with Conditioner
fo r
Everyday Use
Mar l i at 242/28
M a r l i n a t CM 105
M a r l i n a t S L 3/40
M a r l a z i n
K C
30/50
Pantheno l
Perfume
C o l o u r
P r e s e r v a t ive
NaC1
Water
wt%
46.0
7 . 0
3 . 8
1 . 6
0 . 2
qs
q s
q s
CIS
t o 1 00 .0
P r e p a r a ti n :
The com ponents a r e m ixe d to g e th e r i n seq ue nce a nd s t i r r e d
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s te d t o 5 .5 -6.5 .
SOURCE: Hu ls Amer ica I n c . : Fo rm ul a t io ns f o r Cosmet ics : Formulas
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Shampoos 329
Herbal Shampoo Pearlescent
M a r l
i
at 242/28
Ampholyt
JB
130
Mar lamid PG
2 0
Hai r Complex Aquosum
S t i n g i n g N e t t l e Sp ec ia l
Rosemary Special
V i t a m i n F
Horse -ches tnu t Spec ia l
Perfume
Col
our
P r e s e r v a t i v e
NaCl
Water
t o 1
wts/,
3 0 0
8 0
3 . 0
I . o
0 .5
0 . 3
0 . 2
I 3
qs
qs
q s
qs
100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s te d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
The components a re m ixed to ge th e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Highly Concentrated Hair Shampoo
A . M a r l i n a t
2 4 2 / 2 8
M a r l i n a t SL
3/40
Ampholyt J B 130
S o f t i g e n
767
Water
6 . Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Co lo u r
NaCl
Pre Dara t i on :
wts/,
5 4 .0
2 5 .0
1 6 . 0
3 . 0
t o 1 0 0 . 0
T h e c o n s t i t u e n t s
o f A .
ar e added to ge th er i n sequence, and
s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f 8 a r e
added t o A . a t a p p r o x . 3 0 C The pH i s a d j us te d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .
SOURCE: H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o ns f o r Cosmet ics: Formulas
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33
osmetic and Toiletry Formulations
High Foaming 2 in 1 Shampoo
Weiqht ,%
Ammonium La ur y l S u l f a t e (28%) 65 . 0
Mackalene
426
( I s o s t e a r a m i d o pr o p y l M o r p h o l i n e L a c t a t e ) 6 . 0
Mackanate DC-30 (Disod ium Dimet h icone Copo lyo l S u l f o -
s u c c i n a t e )
Et hy le ne G1 yc o l D i s t e a r a t e
Mackamide PKM (Palmkernalamide MEA)
Mackern ium 007 ( Po l yq uat ern ium 7 )
Macks ta t
DM
(DMDM Hydantoin)
Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o
4 . 0
1
. o
2 . 0
0 . 4
Q . S .
1 0 0 . 0
Procedure :
1 . Combine t h e f i r s t f i v e components a nd h e a t t o 7 0 degrees C .
2 .
D i l u t e t h e M a c k e r n i u m
0 0 7
i n t h e r e m a in i n g w at er and s l o w l y
3 . B l e n d u n t i l p r o d u c t i s homogeneous and c o o l t o
5 0
degrees C .
4 .
Add Mackstat
DM,
f r a g ra n c e a nd d ye .
5 . A dj us t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d t o 5 .0 -6 .0 and c o o l .
w i t h
c o n t
i
nuous m i x i ng .
add t o t h e b l e nd
Silicone Free 2:1 Shampoo
Weiaht , %
Ammoni um L au ry l S u l f a t e (30%) 4 0 . 0
Mackanate LA (Diammonium La ur yl S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 20.0
Mackalene 426 ( I so st ea ra mi do pr op yl Morpho1
i
e L a c t a t e ) 6 . 0
Mackami de CMA (Cocami de MEA) 2 . 0
Mackernium 007 ( P o l y q u a t e r n iu m 7 ) 1 . 2
Mackester EGDS (G ly co l D is te ar a t e )
1
. o
Paragon (DMDM Hy da nt oi n (a nd) Me thy l Paraben) q . s .
Water, Fragrance, Dye q . s t o 1 0 0 . 0
Procedure :
1 . Add th e f i r s t seven com ponents t o wa ter a nd h ea t t o 70C.
2. B1 end u n t i compl e t e l y homogeneous.
3 .
Cool t o 50C. and add Paragon, f r ag ra nc e and dye.
4 . A dj us t pH t o 5 .0 -6 .0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
5 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: Mc In t y r e Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Ca re Fo rmu la ry
Sodium Ch lo r i d e 0 . 8
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Shampoos 331
Light Conditioning Shampoo
L i g h t c o n d i t i o n i ng shampoo based on h a i
r
s u bs t an t i v i y o f
P a t i o n i c SSL (Sodium S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) . Promotes s t y l e
r e t e n t i on .
I n s r e d i e n t s :
1 . Sodium La u r yl S u l f a t e (Sta ndap ol WAQ-LC) 21.43
2 Sod ium Laur e th - 2 Su l f a t e (Standapo l ES-2) 21 .43
3 . P a t i o n i c SSL (Na S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . 00
4. R i t a
EGDS
( G l y co l D i s t e a r a t e )
5 . R i t a m id e C (Cocamide DEA)
6 . F rag rance - Pert Type #189-724
7 . Kathon
CG
8
C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . )
9 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% So ln . )
3 .50
4.50
0.30
0.03
q.s.
q . s .
1 0 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 4 5 .8 1
Funct
i
n
C1 ean i n g
C le a n in g
S t y l e ,
V i s c o s i t y
L a t h e r
D e n s i t y
Odor
P r e s e r v a t i v e
pH Adjustment
V i s c o s i t y
Ad jus tmen t
C o n d i t i o n i n g
------
- - -
Compounding Procedure:
Hea t i tems 3 a nd 4 u n t i l m e l t e d . Add t o 1 65F wa te r i t e m s 1
and 2. Blen d i n p re -m ix w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . C ool t o 140F
Hea t i t em 5 and m ix w i t h per fume. Add thes e and p r e s e r va t i v e
a t 120F.
Re f .
No.
118-98
Light Conditioning Shampoo
A
l i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo w i t h r e d u ce d s k i n and ey e
i r r i t a t i o n due t o t h e e f f e c t s o f G r i l l o t e n (Sucrose Cocoa te ) .
I n a r e d i e n t s :
1 .
Sod ium Laure th -3 S u l f a t e (Standap o l ES-3)
2. Cocam idopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam 35HP)
3 . G r i l l o t e n LSE-65K (Sucrose Cocoa te )
4. R i t a s y n t I P ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e and o t h e r s )
5 . Po lyqu ta -400 (Po lyqua te rn ium-10 )
6. Kathon
CG
7 .
Sodium Ch lo r i d e (25 % So ln . )
8 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n. )
9 .
Frag rance
l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
F u n c t i o n
8.00 M i 1dness
2.80 N o n - I r r i t a t i o n
3.00 Condi t i o n i n g
1.00 Combing, S t y l e
0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e
q. s .V i scos i t y
q .s .pH Ad jus tmen t
44 .87 -------------
40 .00 La the r
0.30 Odor
Compounding Procedure:
To t h e wa te r a t 1 65F s l o w l y a dd i t e m 5 . When s o l u b i l i z e d ad d
i t e m 3 , wh ich has been mel t ed . Then add 1 , 2 and 4 w i t h co ns ta n t
a g i t a t i o n a t 165F. C ool t o 120F and a dd p er fu me and p r e s e r v a t i v e .
A d j us t pH t o 5 . 5 and v i s c o s i t y t o d e s i r ed l e v e l .
SOURCE:
R . 1 , T . A .
Co r p . : Sug ge sted F o rm u la t i o n s
Ref. No. 118-2
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332
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Light Conditioning Shampoo
L i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo d e si gn ed t o l ea v e t h e h a i r w i t h
a s o f t , c o n d i t i o n e d f e e l f ro m e t h o x y l a t e d 1 a no l ( L a n e to 5 0 ) .
I n q r e d i e n t s :
?&&
F u n c t i o n
1 . Sodium Laure th -2 Su l f a t e (S tandapol ES-2) 50 .00 C lea n ing
2 . R i t a s y n t I P ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e and O t h e r s ) 4 .5 0 C o n d i t i o n i n g ,
3 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . 00 M i l dn e s s ,
4 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L an o l i n ) 1 50 S o f t Fe e l ,
5 . R i tap eg 150
DS
(PEG-150 D is te a ra te ) 0 .50 Opa c i t y
6 . R i t a p a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n ol ) 0 . 5 0 C o n d i t i o n e r ,
7 . F ra g ra n ce - Squeeky Clean 165-047
0.30 Odor
8 .
Kathon
CG
0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i e
9 . Sod ium Hydrox ide (20% So l n . )
q .s .pH ad jus tmen t
10.Sodium Ch lo r i de (25% So ln . )
q .
s .
V i s c o s i t y
Compounding Procedure:
T o t h e wa te r add 1 -6 , h e ar t o 16 5F . M i x and coo l t o 120F.
Add p r es e r va t i ve and f rag ranc e . No te pH shou ld
be
near 6 .0 .
A d j u s t w i t h s odium h y d r ox i d e t o 7 . 2 - 7 . 6 t o ma xim iz e d e p o s i t i o n
o f t h e L an et o 50 i f d e s i r e d .
S o f t F e e l
Combing
Sh ine
Body
C o n t r o l
11 . D i s t i l l e d Water 39.67
- - - - - - - - -
Ref. No. 118-46
Light Conditioning Shampoo
A
l i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo o p t i m i z e d f o r p ermed h a i r .
C on ta in s m o i s t u r i z e r s and r e p a i r a ge nt s t o g i v e h a i r new l i f e .
I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n
1 . Sod ium Laure th -2 S u l f a t e (S tandapo l
ES-2) 53.60 Cl ea ni ng
2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l
L a c t y l a t e )
2.25 Moi s t u r i z a t i o n
3 .
Ri tapeg 150
DS
(PEG-150 D i s t e a ra te ) 0 .7 5 V i s c o s i t y
4 . R i t a EGMS (G ly co l St ea ra te ) 2 . 0 0 O p a c i t y
5 . R i t a l a n DL (d l - Pan t heno l ) 0 .25 Body, Fee l
6 . L ane to 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n )
0 .75 Fee l
7 .
P r o p yl e n e G l y c o l
2 .5 0 Moi s t u r i z a t i o n
8 . F ra g ra n ce - Na tu re Ha rv es t 165-050 0.30 Odor
9 . Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e
10. D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 37.57 -------
Compounding Procedure:
Hea t i t e m s 2 ,3 and 4 u n t i l u n i f o r m . Se p a ra te l y h e a t wa te r
u n t i l 165F d i s p e r s e i t e m 5 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i t e m 1
f o l l o w e d by p re -m i x . Add i t e m 7 t o b a t ch . P re-m ix i t e m 6 and
perfume and add t o ba tc h which has been coo le d t o 125F. M ix
t h o r o u g h l y . Add o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s . pH s h o u l d b e n ea r 5 . 5 .
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp . : Suggested Fo rm u la t i ons
Re f . N o . 118-94
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Shampoos 333
Low pH, Protein Gel Shampoo
Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%)
Wei g h t %
35 .0
Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 12.0
( N at u ra l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2.0
Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA) 2.0
Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hyd an to i n ) q s
L a c t i c A c i d q s
Water, Dye, Fragrance
qs
t o 100.0
Procedure :
1 Add f i r s t f o u r components t o w a te r and h e a t t o 60 degrees
C .
2 . A d ju s t pH t o 5 . 0 w i t h l a c t i c a c i d .
3 .
Cool and add re mai n in g components a t 4 0 degrees
C .
Mackpro NLP (Quatern ium-79 Hy dr o ly ze d Animal P r o t e i n )
Mild Conditioning Shampoo
Weiqht ,%
Mackanate EL (Disod ium La ur e t h Su l fo su cc i na te ) 10.0
Mackam 35 (Cocamidopropy l Be ta in e ( V i a G ly ce r i de )
2 5 . 0
Sodium L aur e th Su l f a t e (60%)
10.0
Mackana te DC-30 (D i sod i um
D i
meth i cone Copo lyo l
S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 1
. o
Mackamide C (Cocamide DEA (1:l) 2 . 0
P o l y s o r b a t e 20 1 . o
Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydantoin) q s
Water, Dye, Fragrance
qs
t o
100.0
Procedure :
1 Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o w a t e r.
2 . S t a r t m i x i n g a t room t e mp e ra t ur e u n t i l a l l c omponents a r e
3 .
B l e nd f r a g r a n c e w i t h P o l y s o r b a t e and add t o b a t c h .
4 . Adjust pH i f necessary w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
5. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .
pH: 5.5-6.7
V i s c o s i t y ( c p s 25 de gr ee s
C . :
600-1200
c l e a r l y d i s s o l v ed .
Economy Shampoo
Mackadet SBC-8 (Mi I d Bl end )
Sod ium Ch lor ide
Wei q h t
.%
10.0
q s
Ma ck st at DM
(DMDM
Hydan to in ) q s
Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o 1 00 .0
Procedure :
1 Add Mackad et SBC-8 t o wa te r a nd b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .
2 . Add Mackstat DM and a d ju s t v i s c o s i t y t o
3000-4000
cps w i t h
3 . Add dy e and f r a g r a n c e a nd b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .
SOURCE:
M c I n t y r e
G r o u p L t d . :
Persona l are Formu la ry
sodium c h l o r i d e .
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334
Cosmetic
and Toiletry Formulations
Mild Shampoo
U l t r a m i l d
shampoo f o r g e n t l e c l e a n i n
easy t o r i n s e
o u t a nd l e ave s m in im a l r e s
I n g r e d i e n t s :
1 . Sodium L a u r e th Su l f a t e (S ta n da p ol ES-
2. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Mackam 35 HP)
3 . R i t a b a te 20 (Po l yso rb a t e 2 0)
4 . R i ta pe g 150 DS (PEG-150 Dis teara te )
5 . P r e s e r v a t i v e
6. Fragrance-Baby Powder #165-848
7 . Sodium Ch lo r i d e (25 % So lu t i o n )
8
D i s t i 11ed/Dei on i zed Water
ComDoundina Procedure:
o f h a i r . E x c e p t i o na l l y
due.
) 30 .00
20.00
5.00
2 .00
q . s .
q . s .
0.30
42.70
F u n c t i o n
C1 ea ni ng
M i
d n e ss
M i
1dness
L i g h t
C o n d i t i o n i n g
P r e s e r v a ti e
Odor
V i s c o s i t y
To
wa te r add i tems 1 and 4 . Hea t t o 60C and m ix u n t i l un i fo r m.
Add i t em s 2 and 3 and co nt in ue mix in g . Cool t o 30C. Add f ra gr an ce
and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium
C h l or i d e s o l u t i o n .
R e f . N o . 118-71
Mild Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : Jqjy
1. Sod ium Laure th -2 S u l f a t e (Standap o l ES-2) 46 .50
2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e 1 2 . 2 5
3 . R i tap eg 150
DS
(PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 0 .75
4 . Co n d i t i o n i n g Age nt *
5 . Fragrance-Nature Harvest 165-050
6. Kathon CG
7 . Sod ium Hyd rox i de (20% S o l n . )
8 . Sod ium Chor ide (25% S o l n . )
q . s .
0 .3 0
0.03
q . s .
q . s .
9 , D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d W ater 5 0. 17
Funct n
C le a n in g
Damage Repai r
V i s c o s i t y ,
M a n a g e a b i l i t y
C o n d i t i o n i n g
Odor
P r e s e r v a t i v e
pH Ad jus tmen t
V i s c o s i t y
C o n t r o l
_----
*
O p t i o n a l c o n d i t i o n i n g a ge nt , such as j o j o b a o i l , p a nt h en o l,
p r o t e i n , e t c . c o u l d be added.
Compounding Procedure:
add a t 165F. Coo l t o 120F and add pe r fume and p re s e r va t i v e .
A d j u s t pH t o 6 .0 -6 .5 and v i s c o s i t y as de s i r e d .
SOURCE:
I 3 , I . T . A .
Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu la t ion s
To t h e wa te r add i t em 1 a t 165F. Pre -m ix i tems 2 and 3 and
Re f . No. 118-102
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Shampoos 335
Moisture Balance Shampoo with Cropeptide W
T h i s f o rm u la g i v e s h a i r more body c o n t r o l i n a l l h u m i d i t i e s ,
an e f f e c t c r e a t e d by C r o p ep t i de
W .
E s pe c ia l l y recommended f o r
d r y , damaged h a i r , Cropep t ide W can reduce i t s b r i t t l e n e s s a t
low
RH
and i t s l im pn es s a t h i g h
R H .
The shampoo i s an eas y- to-
make and economica l c o l d m ix fo r mu la w i t h ve r y good c lea ns i ng
p r o p e r t i e s .
I n g r e d i e n t s :
P a r t A :
In cr om id e LR (Lauramide DEA) 5 .00
Incronam 30 (Cocamidopropy l B e t a i ne )
5 .0 0
Sodi um Pareth-25 S u l f a t e
15.00
C r o p e p t i d e
W
(H ydr o ly ze d Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat
1 . o o
Dei on i zed Water 73.70
P a r t B :
Methyl paraben 0.20
Propy l paraben 0.10
Procedure :
i n g r e d ie n t s o f P a r t
B
i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h good m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH
w i t h a 10% c i t r i c s o l u t i o n .
01 osac char i des)
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add t h e
pH:
5.0+-0.5
V isco s i t y : 7 ,5 0 0 + -1 0 % ( R V T S p i n d l e 4, 20 rpm, 25C)
N . A . T . C . Approved
Formula SH-82
Shampoo with Trit isol
A
r i c h fo am in g shampoo w i t h wheat d e r i v e d T r i t i s o l added f o r
condi t i on i ns . Exce l 1e n t wet combi ng c h a ra c t e r i s t i cs a re p roduced
by t h i s p e a rl e s c en t p r o d u c t .
I n g r e d i e n t s :
P a r t
A:
SLES (3 mo le) 16 .5 0
C ro su l t a i ne C-50 (Cocamidop ropy l Hy d ro xy su l ta i ne ) 7 .00
Dei on i zed Water 61.50
In cr om ec ta nt AMEA-100 (Ac etam ide MEA) 3.75
P a r t 8 :
I n c r o m i d e CAC (Cocamide
DEA
Cocoy l Sa rc os in e ) 3 .00
I n c r o m id e ALD (Almondamide DEA) 1
. o o
Inc romate OLL (O l i vam idop ropy l D ime thy lamine Lac ta t e ) 1
. o o
P a r t C :
T r i t i s o l ( S o lu b l e Wheat P r o t e i n ) 2 . 25
Crod a pe a rl L i q u i d (Sodim L a u re th S u l f a t e (an d )
Hydroxye thy l S tea ramide M I P A ) 3.00
Germaben I 1 1 . o o
Procedure :
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 8 0-856 .
S lowly add B t o A w i t h m i x i n g a nd co o l t o 40C. Add Pa r t C w i t h
m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH t o 6 .0 w i t h a
10%
c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . Cool
t o d e s i r ed
f i l l
t e m p e ra tu re .
pH: 6 O O + - 0 . 5
Viscos i t y : 2 ,500+-10%
(@25C)
N . A . T . C . Approved Fo rm ula SH-83-1
SOURCE:
Croda Inc . : Sugges ted Fo rmu la t ions
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 60-65C.
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336 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Protein Shampoos
0 40/65:
S u l f e t a l K T 400
Amphotensid
0
4
Pu r to n
SFD
H y d r o l a s t a n
Water , pe r fume , sod ium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
B 40/148:
P a r t A :
S u l f e t a l CJOT
60
P u r t o n SFD
Perfume
Croquat
L
P a r t B:
Polymer JR 400
W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e
Vitamin Shampoos
B 40/29:
Zeteso l 856 T
Pu r to n SFD
S o l u v i t CLR
Wa te r , p er fu me , p r e s e r va t i ve
0 40/30:
S u l f e t a l KT 400
Amphotensid B 4
Pu r to n CFD
V i ami n F , wate r -s o l ub l e
Wate r, pe r fume , sodium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
30.0
10.0
1.5%
1 .O
9. s . t o make 100.0%
25.0%
1 .0 %
0.5%
1
.O
0.3%
9 , s .
t o make 100.0%
Shampoo for Dry Hair
B
4 0 / 1 3 1 :
Zeteso l 856 T
Amphotensid B 4
Oxypon 288
Avocado o i l
Perfume
So d iu m ch lo r i d e
W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e
30.0
1 .5 %
3.0
a . s .
t o make 100.0%
40.0
5.0%
1.5%
1.0
q .s . t o make
100.0%
q . s .
22.0%
8.0%
4 . 0 %
0.5%
1
.O
approx. 2 .0%
t o make 100.0%
SOURCE:
Zschimmer
&
Schwarz
GmbH
&
Co.:
Sugeested Formula t ions
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Shampoos 337
Salon Conditioning Shampoo
O pt im al c o n d i t i o n i n g l e v e l i s a ch iev ed.
I n q r e d i e n t s :
1 . Sodium L a u re th S u l f a t e (S ta nd a p ol
ES-2)
2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l
3 . R i ta peg 150 DS (PEG-150 Dis teara te )
4 . R i tapan DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l )
5. Lane to 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n )
6 . Po lyqu ta 400 (Po lyqua te rn ium-10 )
7 . Sodium Ch l o r id e (25% So ln . )
8 . Kathon
CG
9 .
Frag rance - Na tu re Harve st 165-050
10.
D i
s t i 11ed/Dei o ni zed Water
L a c t y l a t e )
F u n c t i o n
54. 35 C1 ea ni ng
3 . 00
Mi ld , Combing
1
. O O S t y l e , V i s c o s i t y
0.25 Body
0.75 Combing
0. 50 Combing, St y1 e
0 .25
V i
s co s i y
0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e
0.30 Odor
39.57 ------
Compounding Procedure:
i t e m 3 i n i t e m 2 . Add t o 165F m ain b a t c h and m i x u n t i l u n i fo r m .
Add i t e m s 5 and 1 i n o r d e r a nd m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . C oo l t o 120F.
Add p r e s e r v a t i v e an d p er fu me . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaC1.
D i s p er s e i t e m s 6 and 4 i n o r d e r i n w a te r a t 165F. P r e - d i s s o l v e
Re f .
No.
118-28
Salon Conditioning Shampoo
A
m i l d s a l o n c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo w i t h e xt re me ly r i c h l a t h e r
and a l o e and pa nt he no l t o p e n e t r a t e t h e h a i r s h a f t t o p ro du ce
h ea l t h y h a i r
I n s r e d i e n t s :
1 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a te (S ta nd a p ol
2. Cocamidopropyl Beta ine (Mackam
3. R i tam ide C (Cocamide DEA)
4 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l
5 .
R i t a l o e 200M (A loe Vera Ge l )
6 . R i ta pa n DL (d l - Pant heno l )
7. Kathon CG
8 . F ra g ra n ce
-
Na tu re Ha rve s t
9. Sodium C h l o r id e (25% So ln . )
1 0 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S ol n. )
11 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
WAQ
LC)
35 HP)
L a c t y l a t e )
F u n c t i o n
25.0 0 C1 ea ni ng
10.00
L a th e r, M i l d
5. 00 L a t h e r , Oensi t y
1 - 7 5 M i l d n e ss
0.15 Condi
t i
n i ng
0 . 5 0 H e a l t h
0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e
0 . 30 Odor
q . s . V i s c o s i t y C o n t r o l
q .s .pH Ad jus tmen t
57.27 -----
Compounding Procedure:
1, 2 and
4,
add h e at t o 120F. Add t o w at er m i x t u r e w i t h u n i f o r m
m ix i n g . P re-m ix R i t a m id e C and per fume and add t o b a t ch . Add
p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y a s needed.
SOURCE:
R. I .T .A . Co rp . : Suggested Fo r mu l a t i ons
To t h e wa te r add i te ms 5 and
6,
he at t o 120F. Combine i t em s
Ref . No. 118-63
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338 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Salon Style Shampoo
S al on c o n d i t i o n i n g i s a ch ie ve d t h r o u gh b al an ce d b l en d o f
s u r f a c t a n t s , p ol ym er s and p r o t e i n s wh ic h g i v e h a i r g r e a t
combing and sh ine .
I n q r e d i e n t s : F u nc t i on
1. Ammoni um La u r y l S u l f a t e (S tep ano l
AM 1 45.0 0 C1 ea ni ng
2 . Cocamidopropyl B e ta in e (Mackam 35HP) 5. 50 M il dn es s
3. Cocami do pr op yl A m i ne Oxide (Mazox
CAPA)
4 . Ri ta m id e C (Cocamide DEA)
5 . Po ly qu ta 400 (Po lyquatern iu m-10)
6 .
H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
(Methocel 40-100)
7 .
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
99%
8 . Te t rasod ium
EDTA
9 . Methy lpa raben
10.Germal l 115
11 .Pro mois WK ( H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t i n )
12 .Fragran ce-Natur e Har ves t #165-050
1 3 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . )
1 4 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
Cornpounding Procedure:
5 .50 La the r
1.00 L ath er Densi
0 . 1 0 C o n d i t i o n i n g
0.20 Body, Vi sc os
0.10 pH
0 .20 C l a r i t y
0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e
0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e
0.40 Shine, Body
0.30 Odor
4 , s .
pH Con t ro l
41.30
-----
Y
To t h e wa te r add i te ms 5 and 6 and n e u t r a l i z e w i t h T E A .
Add i tems 1,2 ,8,9 ,10 and 11 i n o r de r . P re -m ix i tem s 3 ,4 and
f r a g r a n c e and add t o mi x . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . A d j u s t pH t o
6 . 0
and v i s c o s i t y .
Re f . No. 118-111
2 in 1 High Condit ioning Shampoo
H ig h c o n d i t i o n i n g 2 i n 1 t y p e shampoo w i t h e x c e l l e n t wet
combi ng /d ry combing.
I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n ct i o n
1 .
Sod ium Laure th -3 -Su l fa te
(Standapol ES-3)
30.0 0 C1 ea ni ng
2 . R i tam ide C (Cocamide DEA) 3 .7 5
L a t h e r
3 . P o lyq u ta 400 (Po lyqu atern ium-1 0)
1 . 0 0 C o n d i t i o n i n g
4. Fragrance
0.30 Odor
5 . Kathon
CG
0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure:
i tems 1 and
2
i n or d e r and m ix u n t i l c l e a r . Cool t o 120F
and add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c
A c i d a nd v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e t o d e s i r e d r an ge s.
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested Fo r mu l a t i ons
6. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 6 4. 92
- - - -
TO
t h e wa te r a t 165F ad d i t e m s 3 and m ix u n t i l c l e a r . Add
R e f . No. 115-2058
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Shampoos 339
Shampoo for Permed Hair
Wei g h t %
Mackanate OP (Disodium Oleamido
M I P A
S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 2 0 . 0
Mackanate
CP
(D i sod i um Cocami do
M I P A
S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 1 2 .0
So d iu m L a u re th Su l f a te (30%) 15 .0
Mackamine
WGO
(Wheat Germamidopropylamine Ox ide ) 4. 0
Mackale ne 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl Di me thy lam i ne
L a c ta te ) 1
. o
Macks ta t
DM
(DMDM Hyd a n to i n ) qs
C i t r i c A c i d t o pH=6.0
Sod ium Ch lor ide qs t o 2 0 0 0 cps
Water, Dye, Fragrance
qs
t o 100.0
Procedure :
1 . Add su r f a c ta n t s t o wa te r an d h e a t t o 40 de g re e s C .
2 . Blend u n t i l c l e a r and a d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
3 . Add rema in ing components and ad ju s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sod ium
c h l o r i d e .
Pearlescent Shampoo Concentrate
TEA L a u ry l Su l f a te
Weigh t ,%
50.0
Mackami de LLM (Lau rami de DEA) 30 .0
Mackes te r SP (G l yc o l S t ea ra te Mo d i f i ed ) 5 .0
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l
5 .0
Sodium Ch lo r i de 1 . 0
Ph o sph o r ic A c i d t o pH = 7 . 5
Macks ta t DM (DMDM H yda n to in )
q s
Water, Fragrance, Dye
qs
t o 1 00 .0
Procedure :
1 . Add f i r s t f i v e components t o w a te r and h ea t t o 70 degrees
C .
2 . B1 end u n t i homogeneous.
3 Cool t o 40 degrees C . and add Mackstat
DM,
dye and f rag rance .
Remarks: T h i s p r o d u c t c an be d i l u t e d one p i n t t o a g a l l o n
w i t h w a t er . The v i s c o s i t y can b e c o n t r o l l e d by r e g u l a t -
i n g t h e p ro py le ne g l y c o l .
Neutralizer Shampoo
Weipht ,%
Mackanate OM (Disodium Oleamido MEA S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 30.0
Sodium L a u re th S u l f a t e (30%) 20 . 0
Mackami ne CAO (Cocami dop rop yl ami ne Ox id e) 6 . 0
Mackamine WGO (Wheat Germamidopropylamine Ox ide ) 2 . 0
Macks ta t DM
(DMDM
Hyd a n to i n ) q s
Water, Dye, Fragrance
qs
t o 10 0. 0
S o l i d s ,
%:
19.5
pH: 5.3
V i s c o s i t y ( cp s, 25 d eg
C . ) :
1500
Procedure :
Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o w at er and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . A d j u s t pH
t o 5. 0- 5. 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c id . Add dye and f r a gr a n ce .
SOURCE: Mc In ty re Group L t d . : Pe rsona l Care Fo rmu la ry
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34 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Sport Shampoo
A . M a r l i n a t OFN 30
M a r l i n a t CM 105
Amphol y t
J B
130
O i o n i l
O C / K
A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d
Water
B .
Avocado Specia l
Perfume
Co lo u r
P r e s e r v a t i e
w e i
3 5 .0
11 . o
10.0
2 . 5
q s
t o
1 0 0 . 0
1 . 5
qs
q s
qs
P r e p a r a t i o n :
and s t i r r e d u n t i l h omogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f 9. are added
t o A . a t ap pro x. 30C. The pH
i s
a d ju s te d t o
5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f
A .
a r e added to g et h er i n sequence, warmed
Herbal Shampoo Against Greasy Hair
A .
M a r l i n a t 242128
M a r l i n a t CM 105
Amphol y t JB 130
M a r l a m id M 1218
Water
B . Avocado Specia l
Camomi 1e Sp ec i a1
Perfume
Co lo u r
P r e s e r v a t i v e
NaCl
wt%
2 8 . 0
1 8 . 0
1 3 .0
3 . 0
t o 100.0
1 . o
0 . 5
qs
qs
qs
qs
P r e p a r a t i o n :
The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f
A .
a re added to ge th er i n sequence and
s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f B .
a r e added t o A, a t a p p ro x . 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .
SOURCE: Huls A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet ics: Formulas
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Shampoos 341
Two in One Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s :
PC 90 43 , S i l i c o n e e m u ls i o n
10 . 0 0
Shampoo co nc en tr at e 90. 00
Procedure :
Heat
( A )
t o a p pr o x. 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h a nc ho r
t y pe a g i t a t i o n .
Formula
P C
9049
Two in One Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s :
PC 9 044 , S i l i c o n e e m ul s i on 1 0 . 0 0
Shampoo c o nc en tr at e 90.0 0
Procedure :
t y pe a g i t a t i o n .
Form ula PC 9050
Heat ( A ) t o a p pr o x . 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h a nc ho r
Two in One Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : o ow w
P C 9045, s i l i c o n e e m ul s io n
1 0 . 0 0
Shampoo co nc en tr at e 90. 00
Procedure :
t y p e a g i t a t i o n .
Formula
PC
9051
Heat
( A )
t o a p pr o x . 6 5C. M ix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h an ch or
Two in One Shampoo
ared
i
n
t
s
:
PC 9046, s i l i c o n e emu ls ion
Shampoo concentrate
o
1 0 . 0 0
90 .00
Procedure :
t y pe a g i t a t i o n .
Formula
PC
9052
Heat
( A )
t o a pp r o x . 65C. M ix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h an ch or
Two in One Shampoo
I n a r e d i e n t s :
PC 9047, s i l i c o n e e m u ls i o n
%w/w
1 0 . 0 0
Shampoo c on c e nt r a te 90. 00
Procedure :
t y p e a g i t a t i o n .
Fo rm ula PC 9053
Heat
( A )
t o a p pr o x. 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h a nc ho r
Two in One Shampoo
I n a r e d i e n t s :
PC 9048 , s i l i c o n e emu ls ion
1 0 . 0 0
Shampoo c o nc en tr at e 90. 00
Procedure :
t y p e a g i t a t i o n .
Fo rm ula PC 9054
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l at i o n s
Heat
( A )
t o a p p ro x . 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h an ch or
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342 Cosmetic and Toiletiy Formulations
Two in One Shampoo
T ru e 2 i n 1 f o rm u la w i t h e xce p t i o n a l wet a nd d r y com bing .
I n q r e d i e n t s : &V& F u n c t i o n
1 . Sodium Lau re t h -2 -S u l f a te (S tandapo l
ES-2 30.00 C le an in g
2 . Cocamidop ropy l Be ta i ne (M i r a t a in e
BET C-30) 3 .0 0 L at he r
3 . PEG-120 Me thy l G lucose D io le a t e 3 .00 M i ldness , V i s c o s i t y
4 . Dow Co rn in g 1401 F l u i d 2.60 Combing
5 . R i t a m i d e
C
(Cocamide
DEA)
4 .0 0 L a th e r De n s i t y
6. Frag ranc e 0.20 Odor
7 . P r e s e r v a t i v e - Kathon CG 0 0 3 P re se rva t i o n
8 . C i t r i c A c id (50% S o l n . )
q . s .
pH
Ad jus tmen t
9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 5 7 - 1 7
- - - -
- -
Compounding Procedure:
5 and add t o mix a t 60C. S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add f r a g r a n c e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0- 6 .5 .
To t h e wat er a t 60C add i te ms 1,2 and 3. Premix i te ms 4 and
Re f .
N o .
116-153
Two in One Shampoo
U ni qu e c o mb in a ti on o f e x c e l l e n t c o m b a b i l i t y , o v e r a l l cond-
i t i o n i n g and m il dn es s.
I n a r e d i e n t s :
1 . Sodium Lau re t h - 2 -S u l f a te (S tandapo l
2 . G r i l l o t e n LSE-65K (Sucrose Cocoate )
ES-2
3.
4.
5 .
6.
7 .
8.
9 .
10.
Cocamidopropyl Be ta i ne (Mi r a t a i ne
BET C-30)
Dim eth i cone C opo lyo l (Abi 1 888183)
Quatern ium
80
(Ab i l Quat 3272)
F rag rance
-
Squeeky Clean
Kathon CG
C i t r i c A c i d
( 5 0 %
S o l n . )
Sodium C h l o r i de (25% So ln . )
D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
F u n c t i o n
1 .50 Mi ldness
45.00 Clea n ing , L a the r
10.00
L a th e r , M i l d n e ss
1.95 Combing
0 . 6 5 C o n d i t i o n i n g
0.30 Odor
0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e
0.05 pH Adjustment
q . s .
V i s c o s i t y C o n tr o l
40.52 ----
Compounding Procedure:
t h e i t e m s 1 and 2 w h i l e h e a t i n g g e n t l y a nd ad d p e rfu me a nd m ix
u n t i l un i f o r m. Now mix bo th phases to ge th e r . Ad ju s t pH and
v i s cos i t y
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested Form ula t ions
To th e wa te r a t 120F add i te ms 4,5 and 3 i n o r de r . P re-m ix
Re f . No. 119-4
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Shampoos
343
2 In 1
Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A Dim eth i cone C op ol yo l Dow Co rn in g 92-5000
D o w C or ni ng 345 f l u i d
Carbopol 1382
Water
%w/w
0 .2 5
0 . 2 5
0 .10
66.13
B
CP 1052 (shampoo ba se ) 31 . 5 0
C S tep an- Ke ss co E t h y l e n e g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e 1
. o o
D
NaCl 0.77
Procedure :
B le nd i n g r e d i e n t s i n (A) t o g e t h e r w i t h m oderate a g i t a t i o n
a t 35C. Add shampoo base t o (A ) w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Hea t
m i x tu r e t o 80C and add g l y co l d i s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g .
A l l ow t o c oo l w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g
i n
s a l t a t 50C
o r be low.
Formula CP 1061
Two-in-One Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
Water
Dow Corning (12-5200
Dow Co rn i n g 345 f l u i d
BF
Good rich Carbopo l 1382
B S tep an -K es sc o E t h y l e n e g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e
C
G-9600 1053 (Shampoo base)
D NaCl
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s
t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w
67.36
0 . 1 0
0 . 2 0
0 . 0 8
0 .50
31
. 50
0 .26
Procedure :
35C. Add shampoo base t o (A ) w i t h modera te a g i t a t i o n . Hea t
m i x tu r e t o 80C and add g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g .
A l l ow t o c oo l w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g
i n
s a l t a t 50C o r
b e low.
Fo rm ul a CP 1063
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
B le nd i n g r e d i e n t s i n (A) t o g e t h e r
w i t h
moderate a g i t a t i o n a t
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344
osmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Three in One Shampoo
R e s u l t i n g p r od u c t i s a c l e a r r i c h shampoo w hi ch c l e a ns ;
c o n d i t i o n s and improves co mb ab i l i t y w i t h Lexquat AMG-BEO; and
s t y 1e s w i t h P V P / V A copo lymer .
A . So d iu m L a u ry l Su l f a te (S ta n d a p o l WAQ) 15.00
TEA-Laury l S u l f a t e (S tandapo l T ) 10.00
Cocami dop rop yl B e ta i ne (L exa i ne C) 10.00
Cocami de DEA (Standam i d K D ) 3 .00
Potassium Coc oyl - Hyd ro ly zed Col lag en (Maypon 4C) 3.00
B . Deion ized Water
P ro p y le n e G l yco l USP
Methy lpa raben (Lexga rd M)
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P)
Benzophenone-4 ( U v i n u l MS-40)
Te t rasod ium EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)
42 .10
3 .00
0 . 2 0
0.10
0 . 1 0
0 . 1 0
C .
Behenami dop ro py l PG D imoni um Chl o r i de (Lexquat
AMG-BEO) 7 .00
D .
P V P / V A co p o l ym e r (L u v i sko l VA 73-W) 6 . 00
E .
Frag rance
Co lo r
0 . 20
QS
F . C i t r i c A c i d NF QS
Procedure :
1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n p ha se
A .
H eat t o 75C w i t h c o n t i n -
uous s lo w o s c i l l a t i o n . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r .
2 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n p ha se
B ' l .
Hea t t o 75-8OC. M ix ra p i d l y
t o d i s s o l v e pa ra be ns .
3. When phases A&B1' a r e bo t h homogenoeus and a r e 75C, add
Phase A t o B . A d j u s t m i x i n g speed t o a v o i d f oa mi ng a nd
a i
r
en t rapmen t .
4. Combine phase C and mix u n t i l homogeneous.
5. Add phase C t o 'IAB . Ma in ta in 75C.
6 .
When phase ABC i s homogenoeus add ' ID1' t o A B C . M i x u n t i l
7 . When phase ABCD i s homogeneous be gi n c o o l i n g t o ambient
8 .
A t
30C add phase
'@E1'
o ABCDI ' . C o n ti n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g .
9 .
When ba t ch reaches amb ien t tempera tu r e , ad ju s t pH t o 7 w i t h
1 0 . A d j u s t f o r w a te r l o s s .
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemica l C o . : Formulat ion SP-116
homogeneous.
t e m p e ra tu re .
phase F
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Shampoos
345
Three in One Shampoo
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a r i c h c l e a r shampoo w hi ch c l e a n s ;
p r o v i d e s c o n d i t i o n i n g and im pr ov ed c o m b a b i l i t y w i t h L e xq ua t
AMG-BE0
and q u a t e r n i z e d c h i t o s a n ; and s t y l e s w i t h P V P / V A
copo lymer .
A .
B .
C .
D .
E .
F.
Sodium La ur yl S u l f a t e (St anda pol WAQ)
TEA-Laury l S u l f a t e (S tandapo l T )
Cocamidopropyl Be ta in e (L exa i ne C)
Cocami de DEA (S tandam i d
KD)
Potassiu m Coc oyl - Hyd ro ly zed Co l la gen (Maypon 4C)
Dei on i zed Water
P ro p y le n e G l yco l USP
Meth ylpa rabe n (Lex gard M)
Propy lpar aben (Lexgard P)
Benzophenone-4 ( U v i n u l MS-40)
Te t rasod ium EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)
Behenamidopropyl
PG
Dimon ium Ch lor ide (Lexquat
Poly quat erni um- 29 (Kytamer KC)
P V P / V A
co -p o l ym e r (L u v i sko l V A 73-W)
Frag rance
C o l o r
C i t r i c A c i d NF
AMG-BEO)
15 .00
10.00
10.00
3 .00
3 .00
42.10
3 .0 0
0 .20
0 .10
0 .1 0
0.10
7 .0 0
0.20
6 . 00
0 . 2 0
QS
QS
Procedure :
1 . Combine i n g re d i e n t s i n pha se A . Hea t t o 75C w i t h co n t i n u o u s
2 . Combine i n g r e d ie n t s i n p ha se B . Hea t t o 75-8OC. M i x r a p i d l y
3 When phases
A & B
a r e b o t h homogeneous and ar e 75C, add Phase
s lo w o s c i l l a t i o n . Do n o t e n t ra p a i r .
t o d i s s o l v e p ar ab en s.
A t 1 t o 'lB . A d j u s t m i x i n g speed t o a v o i d f o am in g and a i r
en t rapmen t .
4. Combine phase
C
and m ix u n t i l homogeneous.
5. Add phase C t o
A B .
Main ta in 75C.
6. When phase
t lABC
i s homogeneous add phase D t o ABC . M ix
7 .
When phase
ABCDt f
i s homogeneous b e g in c o o l i n g t o a mb ie nt
8 . A t 30C add phase E l 1 t o l 'ABCD . C o n t in u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g .
9 . When ba t ch reaches ambien t temper a tu re , a d j us t pH t o 7 w i t h
1 0 . A d j u s t f o r w at er loss.
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: F or m ul at io n
S P -115
u n t i l homogeneous.
t e m p e ra tu re .
phase
F .
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346
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Wheat & Sesame Shampoo
H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA i s t h e key i n g r e d i e n t i n t h i s shampoo,
w hic h a c q u i r e s i t s u n iq ue q u a l i t y f ro m a b le n d o f wheat d e r i v e d
m a te r i a l s . T h i s shampoo has e x c e l l e n t foam w i t h a r i c h , creamy
l a t h e r and l ea ve s t h e h a i r f e e l i n g r e f r e s h i n g l y c l e a n . Hy dro-
t r i t i c u m
WAA,
a p o w er f u l h um ec tan t, h e l p s t o r e t a i n m o i s t u r e
t h a t i s v i a l t o mai n t a i n i ng h e a l t h y h a i r . Incromectant AMEA-100
and Incromate S E L improve wet combing and de t an g l i ng .
P a r t A :
Inc rom i ne Oxide WG (Wheat Germarni do p rop y l ami ne O x id e) 3. 00
In cr on am WG-30 (Wheat Germam idopropy l B e t a i n e ) 3 . 0 0
I nc r om ec ta nt AMEA-100 (A cet am ide MEA) 5 . 0 0
S L E S
( 3 mol EO) 40 .0 0
D i
so d i um E D T A 0 .1 0
Dei o n i zed Water 41 -4.5
P a r t
B:
Incr omi de WGD (Wheat Germami de DEA) 2 . 0 0
Inc rom ate SEL (Sesami dop rop yl Di me thy l ami ne La c t at e ) 1
. o o
BHT 0 .1 0
P a r t C :
H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino Ac id s) 3. 00
P a r t D :
Methy lparaben 0 .25
Pro p y lp a ra b e n 0 . 1 0
Pro p y le n e G l yco l
1 - 0 0
C i t r i c A c i d ( 10% s o l n ) t o pH 5 . 4
Combine Part
A
and he at t o 60C. Combine P a r t
B
and he a t t o
60C, m ix in g u n t i l homogeneous. Add P a r t
B
t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g .
Con t inue m ix in g and coo l t o 45C. Add P ar t C , f o l l o w e d by P a r t D
m i x in g u n t i l u n i fo r m . A d ju s t
p H
w i t h c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n .
I n a r e d i e n t s :
N . A . T . C . App rove d Form ula SH-84
Detangling Shampoo
I n a r e d i e n t s :
P a r t
A :
SLES ( 3 m o l . )
C r os u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropy l
Dei o n i zed Water
In c r om e c ta nt AMEA-100 (Ac etam ide
P a r t
B :
H yd ro xy su l t a i ne)
MEA)
I n c r o m i d e CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoy l Sa rcos ine )
In c ro m a te ISML ( I so s te a ra m id o p ro p y l M o rp h o l i n e L a c ta t e )
P a r t
C :
Crodace l
QM
(Cocod imon ium Hydroxypropy Ce l lu lose)
Crod a pe a rl L i q u i d (So diu m L a u re th Su l f a t e (a nd )
Pr opy len e G1 y c o l (and)
D i
azo1 i n y l U rea (a nd ) M e th y l
Hydroxyethyl Stearamide-MIPA)
Paraben (and) Propyl Paraben*
20 .0
7 . 0
58.0
2 . 0
3 . 0
4 . 0
2 . 0
3 . 0
1 . o
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 60-65C.
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t
B
w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 6 0-65C.
Add Part
B
t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and co o l t o 40C. Add Pa r t C
w i t h m i x i ng and c o ol t o d e s i r e d
f i l l
t e m p e ra tu re . A d ju s t pH w i t h
10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n .
S O U R C E : C r o d a
I n c . :
S u g g e s t e d Formulas
For mul a SH-92 *Germaben I 1
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Shampoos
347
Wheat Germ Conditioning Shampoo
Wei
u
ht ,%
Sodium Lau re t h S u l f a t e (30%) 24 .0
Mackanate
OP
(Disodium Oleamido
M I P A
S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 2 0 . 0
Mackanate WGD (Disodium Wheatgermamido PEG-2 8 .0
S ul f o s u c c i n a t e )
Mackam
WGB
(Wheat Germamidopropyl Be ta in e) 5 . 0
C i t r i c A c id t o pH 5 . 5
Sod ium Ch lor ide qs t o v i s c o s i t y = 20000 cps
Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydantoin) q s
Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o 1 00 .0
Procedure :
1 .
Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o wa t er and h ea t t o 40 d e gr ee s C .
2 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 .
3 . Add re m a in i n g com po ne nts an d a d ju s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sod ium
c h l o r i d e .
No-Sting 2:l Shampoo
Mackam 2C
Weish t ,%
3 5 . 0
Sodium L a u re th -1 S u l f a te
2 0 .0
Mackanate DC-30
4.0
Mackernium 007
3 . 0
Mackester
SP
2.0
Macks ta t DM
q . s .
C i t r i c A c id q . s . t o pH
7 . 0 - 7 . 5
Water, Dye, Fragrance q . s . t o 1 00 .0
Procedure :
1 . Add Mackam 2C, Sodium La ur et h- 1 S u l f a t e , Mackan ate DC-30 and
Mackester
SP
t o w at er .
2 . Hea t t o 70C t o b l end u n t i l homogenous.
3 . Slowly add Mackern ium 007.
4. Cool t o 50C and add Mac kst at
DM.
5. Add f r ag ra nc e, dye and a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 - 7 . 5 .
Stripper Shampoo
Weight,%
21 .5
5 . 4
4 .0
5 . 5
8 . 0
100.0
Dod ecylbe nzen e Su l f o n i c Ac i d
C au st ic Soda (50%)
Sodium Lau re t h S u l f a t e (60%)
Mackam 35 (Coc amid opro pyl B et a in e )
Sod ium Xy lene Su l fona te
( 4 0 % )
Water, Dye, Fragrance
q s
t o
S o l i d s , %: 30+-1.0
V i s c o s i t y (cps , 25C) : 250-350
Cloud P o i n t : 5C
pH: 6.5-7.0
Procedure :
1 . Add c a u s t i c soda
t o
wa te r a nd a d j u s t pH t o 7 .0 -8 .0 w i t h DDBSA.
2 . Add rema in in g components and ad ju s t pH t o 6 .5 -7 .0 w i t h
3 . I f n ec es sa ry , l ow er v i s c o s i t y w i t h
S X S ,
o r r a i s e v i s c o s i t y
SOURCE:
Mc In ty re Group L t d . : Suggested Fo rmu la t ions
c i t r i c a c i d .
w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .
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Sect ion
IX
Shaving Produc ts
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Shaving
Products
49
Aerosol Shaving Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A
S t e a r i c a c id , t r i p l e pressed
S t r i pp e d c oc on ut f a t t y a c i d
Sorbo
B W a t e r , d e i o n i z e d
A1
l a n t o i
n
C Po t a s s i u m h y d ro x i d e
Water
D
*Perfume
q . s .
t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .
6 . 3 0
2 . 7 0
10.00
50 .00
0 . 2 0
1 .7 0
29 .10
Procedure :
Heat ( A) t o 75C. Add
( B )
and rehea t t o 75C. Add (C) s lo w ly ,
w i t h a g i t a t i o n . M ix f o r 30 m in ut es , m a i n t a i n i n g t em pe ra tu re a t
75C. Cool s l o w l y w h i l e a g i t a t i n g s l o w l y . Add ( D ) a t 35C. P re pa re
aer oso l shav in g cream cans and p res su r e
f i l l
ea ch ca n w i t h
3 t o
4
i sobutane-propane,
40
p s i g t o 46 p s i g .
Nonionic Aerosol Foam
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A
C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 721s
B Wa t e r, d e i o n i z ed
S o r b i c a c i d
C
Fo ug e re L a ve n de r , F r i t z s c h e ,
D O
-PRESSURIZE-
D Above c o n c e n t ra t e ( 1 6 0 . 0 g )
D i f l u o r o e thane, Dymel 152A ( 8 m l s )
96w w
4 . 3 0
2 .20
93.25
0 . 1 7
0 . 0 8
Procedure :
a g i t a t i o n and add ( C) a t 35C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 w i t h d i l u t e
NaOH. Add wa t e r t o c om pe nsate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o ra t i o n .
C on ti n ue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s l ow enough t o p o ur .
SOURCE:
I C 1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat (A ) t o 70C and
( B )
t o 7 . Add
( B )
t o (A ) s lo w l y w i t h
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350 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After Shave Balm
D r y
F l o
PC
i s a h i g h l y w ate r r e s i s t a n t s t a r c h , p r o v i d es a
s i l k y smooth e le g an t f e e l , and i s t a l c f r e e .
I n q r e d i e n t s :
w/w
Phase
A :
E s t o l 1550 4 .00
C u t i n a
CP
2.50
Lonz est 143-S 3.0 0
I v a r l a n 3230 1 .5 0
Phase
B :
Dei on i zed Water 61.60
A l c o l e c
BS
1 o o
Carbopol 941
(2
Aq. So ln . ) 10.00
NaOH (25 ) 0 .40
Methy lpa raben 0 .15
Pro p y l p a ra b e n 0 . 1 5
Phase
C :
G l y c e r i n ( 99 .5 )
7 . 00
Dry -F l o
PC
8 .00
Phenoxyethano l
0 . 2 0
Phase
D:
Fragrance 0 .50
Procedure :
Combine Phase
B,
he at t o 80C. Combine Phase
A ,
h e a t
t o
80C.
A t
80C add
A
t o 9, m i x f o r 1 5 m i n u t e s . Coo l t o 40C. Phase
C;
s l u r r y D ry -F lo
PC
i n t o G l yc e r i n , add t o
A /B
a t 40C. Add Phenoxy
e t ha no l , m ix w e l l . Add Phase
D .
M ix u n t i l u n i fo rm .
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l St a r c h and Chemical Co.: Formula
8062-16
Shave
Gel
The p roduc t
w i l l
r a i s e t h e h a i r o f f t h e f a c e t o make f o r
a c l o s e r c u t w i t h o u t i r r i t a t i o n . The He x an e di ol Be he ny l Beeswax
s t a b i l i z e s t h e s i l i c o n e o i l t o l e av e t h e s k i n s i l k y a nd smooth.
Phase
A :
He xan edi o l Behenyl Beeswax (K os te r Keunen) 3.0
Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.0
Permethy l 104A (Pe rme thy l ) 3 .0
Po lyb ut en e (Amoco) 4.0
I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (U nich em a) 0 .6
P a l m i t i c A c i d ( P r o c t o r
&
Gamble) 1.4
Phase B:
P u r i f i e d W ater 63 .9
T r i e th an ol ami ne (Dow) 0.8
Ca rb op o l 940 2 d i s p e r s i o n (B .F . G o o d r i ch )
12.0
A l o e Ve ra Gel (A c t i v e O rg a n i c s ) 0.8
Phase C :
S i l i c o n e 345 (Dow) 6 .7
A1 1 a n to i n (S u t to n ) 0 .8
Germaben
I 1
( S u t t o n ) ,
1.0
Heat and mix Phase
A
and add t o a he ate d and mixed Phase 9 .
Cool t o 50C and add phase C, one a t a t im e . Cool t o 40C and
p ou r t o c o n t a i n e r s .
o ra t e d i n t o t h i s t y p e o f f o rm ula ,
w i t h
o n ly m in ima l changes
i n
s t a b i l i t y and pe rf or ma nc e.
SOURCE: Ko st er Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u la t io n
F ra gr an ce s, a c t i v e s and o t h e r s i l i c o n e o i l s ca n be i n c o r p -
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Shaving Products 35
After Shave Conditioner
T h i s m u l t i -p h a s e e m ul si on (o/w /a ) i s v e r y s t a b l e and h as
w o nd er fu l s k i n f e e l . B es id es t h e p r e v i o u s l y m e n ti on e d a dv an ta ge s.
C era B e l l i n a p ro du ce s a p r o d u c t w i t h good v i s c o s i t y c h a r a c t e r -
i s t i c s i n a pr od uc t o f l o w s o l i d s c o n t e n t .
O i l
Phase:
L i g h t
M i
n e r a l O i 1 , Ca rn a t i o n (Wi t c o )
Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Ko s te r Keunen)
G l y c e ro l M o n o s t e a ra t e (He n k e l )
De od or iz ed O range Wax
V i t a m i n
E
(Van Dyk)
P ro p y l Pa ra b e n (Su t t o n )
Water Phase:
Water ( d i s t i l l e d )
B u t y l e n e G l y c o l ( A r co )
Glycero l (Un ichema)
Methy l Pa raben (Su t ton )
T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow)
A lcoho l Phase :
SDA-30 (Quantum)
B e nz o ca in e ( N a t i o n a l S t a r c h )
C ar bo xy M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e ( H e r c u l e s )
Procedure :
7 .5
4 . 0
3 . 3
2 . 0
0
5
0 . 1
64.0
5 . 0
1
.O
0.3
1 . O
1 0 . 0
1 .O
0.3
Combine components o f t h e wax phase i n a ve ss e l , me l t and
m ix m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C. H ea t t h e w a t e r p h as e t o
75C
i n
a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l m ak in g s u re t h e co mp one nts a r e a l l
d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a te r phase u nd er
l ow s h e a r . C oo l t o
35
t o 40C a nd t h e n a d d t h e a l c o h o l p ha se
u nd er l o w s h e a r . Th i s
w i l l
e nsu re t h a t t h e f r i c t i o n w i l l n o t
i n c r e a s e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e w hi ch
w i l l
e v ap o ra te t h e a l c o h o l .
A d a p t a t i o n
o f
f o rm u l a a n d
i t s
i n f l u e n c e
on
t h e p r o d u c t :
A l t e r a t i o n s i n component c o n c e n t r a t i o n s c an be ac h ie ve d b y
t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e se con da ry e m u l s i f y i n g a ge n ts . T h i s w e l l a l l o w
f o r
a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s t o be added a t t h e same t i m e a s m a i n t a i n -
i n g t h e s t a b i l i t y and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s .
SOURCE:
Koster Keunen,
I n c , :
S u gg e st e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
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352
Cosmetic nd Toiletry Formulations
Al cohol Fr ee Af t er Shave Lot i on
I ngr edi ent s :
P a r t
I :
Wat er
Phenyl Di met hi cone
Car bomer
940
Tr i et hanol am ne ( 99 )
P a r t
11:
Wat er
Phosphol i pi d SV
Ment ho
1
by Wei ght
66 00
1. 50
0. 30
0 60
30 00
1 00
0. 10
Pr ocedur e:
wat er . Af t er t he Car bomer 940 i s di s so l ved, add t r i et hanol am ne.
I n a separ at e cont ai ner bl end and heat t he wat er , ment hol and
Phosphol i pi d SV t o 75- 8OC. When di ss o l ved, bl end Par t I 1 t o
P a r t I m xi ng wel l . Add col or , f r agr ance and pr eser vat i ve as
r equi r ed and package.
Sl ur r y Car bomer 940 i nt o Di met hi cone t hen m x wel l wi t h t he
Condi t i oni ng Af t er Shave Toner
P a r t
I :
Wat er
Car bomer 940 ( Pr em x)
Pheny l Di met hi cone ( Pr em x)
Tr i et hanol am ne ( 99 )
P a r t
11:
Wat er
Phosphol i pi d
SV
SD3A Al cohol
by Wei ght
51. 00
0. 35
2 00
0 60
30. 05
1.00
15. 00
Pr ocedur e:
Par t I :
Sl ur r y Car bomer 940 i nt o wat er by f i r s t m xi ng i t wi t h
Phenyl Di met hi cone. Al l ow t o m x unt i l homogenous. When Par t
I 1 i s r eady, neut r al i z e Par t
I
wi t h TEA. Add Par t
I1
and bl end
t oget her unt i l a smoot h l ot i on i s f or med.
Par t 11:
Mi x wat er and Phosphol i pi d
SV.
Heat t o 6 5 wi t h agi t at i on
unt i l t he Phos phol i pi d
SV
i s di sso l ved. Cool t o 30- 40C and add
SD3A a l coho l . Add t o Par t
I .
S O U R C E :
Mona I ndus t r i es , I nc . : Sugges t ed For mul at i ons
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Shaving
Products
353
Brushless Shave Cream
T h i s fo rm u l a t i o n fe a tu re s Vanseal NACS-30, sod ium co co y l -
s a r c o s i n a t e , Va n s e a l
CS,
c o c o y l s a r c o s i n e and p o t a s s iu m c o c o at e
as h i g h f oa mi ng y e t m i l d s u r f a c t a n t s . S o r b i t o l adds h umectancy
w h i l e
PVP
and t a l c p ro v i d e l u b r i c i t y . S t e a r i c a c i d , p ro py le ne
g l y c o l s t e a r a t e , and c e t y l a l c o h o l a r e i n c l u d e d as t h i c k e n e r s
and
t o
p r o v i de p l ea s a n t a f t e r - f e e l .
I n a r e d i e n t :
A Vanseal NACS-30
Vanseal
CS
Dei o n i zed Water
Po tass ium Cocoate (2 )
So rb i o 1 70
PVP ( 3 )
by
W t
15.00
2.50
25.75
35
O O
5 . 0 0
0.75
5.00
T a l c
( 4 )
C
S t e a r i c A c i d
P r o py l en e G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ( 5 )
C e t y l A l c o h o l
7 . 0 0
2.50
1 . 5 0
D
Pr e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F ra g ra nc e
q . s .
(2 ) L i q u i d Coconu t Soap,
40
( 4 ) A G I
T a l c
(5 ) Cerasyn t
PA
( 3 ) PVP K-30
P r e p a r a t i o n :
Mix
A
i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r and he a t t o 55C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r -
r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add B t o A w i t h ade qua te a g i t a t i o n . H eat C t o
60C. Add C t o ( A
+ B ,
m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m and homogeneous.
Cool t o 30C and add
D .
Co n s i s t e n c y : F l o wa b l e g e l ( V i s c o s i t y : 25 00 -3 50 0 c p s )
S ug ge st ed P ac ka gi ng : P l a s t i c b o t t l e o r pump.
Comments
:
T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m ul a i s d es ig ne d t o s e rv e
as
a g u id e f o r
t h e d ev el op me nt o f new p r o d u c t s o r im prov em en t o f e x i s t i n g on e s.
SOURCE:
R.T . Va n d e r b i l t Co ., I n c . : Fo rmu la No.
4 3 4
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54
osmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emulsion o r Shaving
I n s r e d i e n t s :
A
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
A r l a c e l 1 8 6
B r i j 721s
B Water , de i on i zed
C * D o w i c i l 2 0 0
* q .
s . t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .
w/w
3 . 0 0
1
o o
3 . 0 0
93 . 00
Procedure :
s t i r . Coo l t o a b ou t 35C an d a dd (C) a nd wa t e r t o co mp en sa te
f o r t h e l o s s due t o e va po ra t i on .
S t i r
t o room t e m p e r a t u re
and package . A d j us t pH t o 5 -6 .
Formula
CP
1082
Heat
( A )
t o 70C and hea t ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) and
Soap Free - Nonionic Shaving Emul
I n n r e d i e n t s :
A
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
A r l a c e l 1 8 6
B r i j
7 2 1 s
B
W a t e r , d e i o n i z e d
S or bo , 70 s o r b i t o
C
* D o w i c i l
200
* q . s .
t h es e i n g r e d
s o l u t i on
e n t s .
w/w
3 . 0 0
1 o o
3 . 0 0
83.00
10 . 0 0
Procedure :
Coo l t o a b o u t 35C an d ad d (C) a nd wa t e r t o co mp en sa te f o r t h e
l o s s
due t o e va p or a t io n . S t i r
t o
room tempera ture and package.
A d j u s t pH t o 5 - 6.
Fo rm ul a CP 1091
SOURCE: I C 1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat (A) t o 70C and hea t ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o
( A )
and s t i r .
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Shaving Products 55
Hemostatic After Shave
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A )
I r g a s a n
DP 300
2
Crodamol DA
3
Ethano l
95
4 B )
P r o p y l e n g l y c o l
USP
5 Water deminera l i zed
6 C) Fragrance: Courage
0/243101
7 D
C e p h a l i p i n
Procedure:
D i sso l ve phase
A ) .
Mix phase
B ) .
Slowly add phase
B )
t o phase A) . Then add i t em
( 6 ) .
F i n a l l y add i t e m
( 7 ) .
A p p l i c a t i o n
No. 01.A/4.91
Shaving Foam
a r e d i e n t s
1
Water deminera l i zed
2
G l y c e r i n
3
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
95
4
Genapol
LRQ
l i q u i d
6 S t e a r i c A c i d
7
L u v i t o l
EHO
8
N i p a s o l
M
9 BHT
10
Cocamide
DEA
Fragrance
12
C e p h a l i p i n
13
P h y t a l u r o n a t e
Procedure :
A p p l i c a t i o n
No.
I
003.0/02.93
SOURCE:
Pentapharm L td . : Sugges ted Formula t ions
5 Euxy l
K-200
The f i l l i n g da ta a re : C on ce nt ra te
95
I s o b u t a n e ( a t
3,2
p s i )
5
?6
w / w
0.01
1 ;oo
50,OO
2,oo
44 49
0,50
2,oo
w/w
71,08
4.00
31 21
5,OO
0,30
8 30
,oo
0,20
0,Ol
0 , 4 0
0,50
3,OO
3,OO
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3 56 Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
Shaving Creme
A .
0
C.
S o f t i s a n 6 01
M i g l y o l 8 1 2
Ma rl ow et TA 6
I m w i t o r 900
NaCl
Ampholyt
J B 1 3 0
Locron
L
Water
Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
t o 1
12 .0
5 . 0
3 . 0
5 . 0
5 . 0
5 . 0
00 . 0
qs
qs
20
E
P r e p a r a t i o n
The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f
A .
a r e mi xe d t o g e t h e r and h e at ed t o
75-8OC. 6 . i s h e a te d t o t h e same te m p e r a t u re a nd g r a d u a l l y
s t i r r e d i n t o A . P erfu me i s i n t r o d u c e d a t a p p r o x . 3 0C.
Shaving Gel
A .
B .
Mar7 a t 242/2 8
Ampholyt
J B
130
Mar lamid DF 1218
A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d
Water
S o f t i g e n 7 6 7
Perfume
S i c o m e t Pa t e n t b l a u *
P r e s e r v a t i v e
50
E
1 0 . 0
5 . 0
1
o
to 1 0 0 0
2 . 0
q s
0 . 0 5
q s
*Sic orne t Pa t e n t b l a u (Pa t e n t b l u e ) 80E 131 1 i n So f t i g e n 767
P r e p a r a t i o n :
The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f
A .
ar e m ixed to ge th e r and warmed t o
appro x . 40C. The co ns t i t u e n t s
o f
6 . a r e m ix e d t o g e t h e r an d
added t o
A .
V i s c o s i t y a t 20C measured i n a B r o o k f i e l d v i s c o -
me te r : 1900 mPa.s.
SOURCE: H u l s
A me ric a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s me ti cs :
Suggested
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Shaving Products
57
Ultra Aerosol Shave Cream o r Sensitive Skin
Veegum U l t r a , magnesium a lu minu m s i l i c a t e , i s u se d i n
t h i s
e mu ls io n fo rm u l a t o im prove t h e s t a b i l i t y
o f
t h e l u x u r i o u s l a t h e r
produced by com bin ing Vanseal NACS-30 (sod ium co co y l sa rc os in a t e )
w i t h s t e a r i c a nd c o co n u t a c i d s oa p s. Vanox
PCX
a c t s as an a n t i -
o x i da n t i n t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n .
I n a r e d i e n t
:
Veegum U l t r a (Magnes ium A luminum S i l i c a t e )
Dei on i zed Water
G1 y c e r
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
S t e a r i c A c i d
XXX
Coconut Ac id ( 2 )
M i n e r a l O i l
C e t y l A l c o h o l
Vanox PCX
( BHT )
Vanseal NACS-30 (Sodium Coco yl Sa rc o si na te )
Methy lparaben
Fragrance
( 2 )
Emery
622
by
W t
1 o o
75.80
3 . 0 0
4.00
6 . 0 0
1 . 3 0
2
- 5 0
1
o o
0 . 20
5 . 0 0
0 . 2 0
q . s
Procedure :
e l l e r m i x e r a t 7 00 r pm . I n c r e a s e t h e m i x e r speed t o 1 700
r p m
and mix f o r 30 minutes . Add the B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown
w h i l e m i x i n g a t 1700 rpm and h e a t i n g t o 75C. M i x t h e
C
i n g r e d -
i e n t s and h e a t t o 75C. S l o w l y a dd
C
t o (A and 8 ) . A d j u s t t h e
m i x e r s peed t o a v o i d a i r e n tr a pm e nt a nd e x c e s s i v e fo a mi ng . M i x
f o r 10 m in u te s a t 75C, t h e n s lo w t h e m ix e r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o
30C. Add t h e
D
i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown and m ix each u n t i l
u n i f o rm . Package i n a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r s u s i n g
9 5 . 0 w t
o f
Formula
N o .
451 and 5.0 w t . A-46 p r o p e l l e n t .
P ro du ct C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s :
S i f t
Veegum U l t r a i n t o t h e w ate r w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p ro p -
V i s c o s i t y : 500-700 c p s
pH:
8 . 0+ - 0 . 2
Comments
:
d ev el op me nt o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e im prove me nt o f e x i s t i n g on es .
SOURCE:
R . T .
V a n d e r b i l t
Co . ,
I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No.
4 5 1
T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o rm u l a i s d e si gn ed t o s e rv e as a gu id e f o r t h e
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Section
X
Soaps and Hand Cleaners
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Soap and Hand Cleaners 359
Economy Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaners
Rhodapon
s0
82081s
A1 kamide
LE
Rhodacal A-246/L
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
O l e i c A c i d
G l y c e r i n e
A1 kamu 1
s
EGMS
Sod ium Ch lo r i de
Fragrance , Dye, Pr es e r va t i ve
Water
Rhodapon SB 8208/S
A1 kamide
D I N
295/S
Rhodacal A-246/L
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
O l e i c A c i d
G1 y c e r i ne
A1 kamul
s
EGMS
Sodi um C h lo r id e
Fragrance, Dye, Pr es e r va t i ve
Water
Wt.
3 . 8
17 .5
0 . 7
0 . 5
1
. o
0 . 6
0.9
Q S
3-4
Q S
t o 100
Wt.
17 .5
0 . 7
0 . 5
1
. o
0 . 5
0 . 9
Q S
3 . 8
2-3
Q . S .
t o 100
Procedure :
smooth a g i t a t i o n , b l e n d i n i n g r e d i e n t s as l i s t e d . C ool t o 30-35C
and b l e n d i n f r a g r an c e , dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e .
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es
:
Cha rg e wa t e r i n t o r e a c t o r an d warm t o 75-8OC. W i t h r a p i d b u t
Appearance 25C: P e a r l , l o t i o n - l i ke l i q u i d
V i s c o s i t y 25C: 4 ,000-5 ,000 cps
Formula HA-0097
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Sugg ested Fo rm ul at io ns
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360
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Emulsion Cleaner
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Water
Acusol 820 S ta b i 1 er (30 )
De odo r i zed Kerosene
NaOH
(50 )
as Suppl ie.d
8 8 . 1
1 . 7
1 0 . 0
0 . 2
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y c ps ,
0 . 5
rpm: 21,000
12 rpm: 2,300
pH: 9 .2
M i
x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o rd e r .
H i gh-shear m i x i ng
i s
n ec es sa ry t o
d i s p er s e t h e s o l v e n t s
(ke ro sen e, o i l )
Waterless Hand Cleaner
I n q r e d i e n t s :
Water
A cu so l 820 S t a b i l i z e r
( 3 0 )
NPElO
Deodor ized Kerosene
M i n e r a l
O i l
NaoH
(50 )
as
S up pl i e d
47 .1
1 . 7
3 . 0
3 8 . 0
1 0 . 0
0 .2
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y cps ,
0 . 5
rpm: 4,000,000
pH: 7.8
Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o r d e r .
H i gh-shear
m i
x i ng i s necessary t o d i s pe rs e t h e s o l v e n t s
M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
( k e ro s en e , o i 1
) .
SOURCE:
Rohm and Haas
C o . : A C U S O L
8 2 0 S t a b i l i z e r : Suggested
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Soap and Hand Cleaners 36
Emulsion Cleaner and Waterless Hand Cleaner
Emulsion Cleaner
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Water
Acuso l
820
St a b i 1 e r
(30 )
Deodor ized Kerosene
NaOH ( 5 0 )
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y cps
0 . 5
rpm: 21,000
12
rpm: 2,300
wH: 9 . 2
Waterless Hand Cleaner
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Water
Acuso l
820
S t a b i l i z e r
(30 )
N P l O
Deo dor i zed Kerosene
M i n e r a l O i l
NaOH (50 )
a s s u p p l i e d
1 . 7
1 0 . 0
0 . 2
8 8 . 1
a s s u p p l i e d
47 .1
1 . 7
3 . 0
1 0 . 0
0 . 2
38.
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y
0 . 5
rpm: 4,000,000
P H : 7 .8
M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o r d e r .
H ig h-sh ea r m i x i n g i s n ec es sa ry t o d i s p e r s e t h e s o l v e n t s
( k e ro s e ne , o i 1
)
SOURCE: Rohm and
Ha a s
Co. : Acuso l 8 2 0 S t a b i l i z e r : Suggested
Formu
1
a t n
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362 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Fast Set Waterless Hand Cleaner with d-Limonene F-453
d - L i monene*
Monami ne 1255
Monafax 705
G l y c e r i n e
M i n e r a l
O i l
Water
Bv Weiqht
40.0
12 .0
0 . 5
1
. o
2.0
44.5
Procedure :
a g i t a t i o n .
F o r mu l at i on P r o p e r t i e s :
Combine i n o r de r l i s t e d , a d di ng w a te r l a s t w i t h good
Ph y s i c a l Ap pe aran ce : Wh i te r i n g i n g g e l
* TABS-D fr om Un ion Camp may be s u b s t i t u t e d
for
d-Limonene
Clear Geld-Limonene Waterless Hand Cleaner F-454
d - L i monene*
G l y c e r i n e
Monami ne 1255
Monafax 785
Water
Bv
Weight
2 0 . 0
20.0
1 2 . 0
0 5
4 7 5
Procedure :
Combine i n o r d e r l i s t e d , a d d in g w a t er l a s t w i t h g ood
a g i t a t i on.
F o r mu l at i on P r o p e r t i e s :
Phys ica l Appearance:
* TABS-D
(Union Camp
SOURCE:
M o n a I n d u s t r i e s
C l ea r r i n g i n g g e l
may be su b s t i t u te d f o r d -L imonene
I n c . : Sug ge ste d Fo rm u l a t i o n s
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Soap and Hand Cleaners 363
Hand Cleaners
Hand Cleaning Paste
B
22/2:
S u l f e t a l
TC
50
Purton SFD
Carboxymethy l c e l l u l o s e 100
So f t soap
Quar tz sand
C h i n a c l a y
So d i u m t r i p o l y p h o s p h a t e
W at er , p er fu m e, p r e s e r v a t i v e
Hand Cleaning Cream, Free of Solvents
T r i ethano
P a r t 8 :
1,2-Propy
Water
P a r t
C :
Perfume
4.0
1
.O
1
.O
12.0
60.0
6.0
1
.O
q . s . t o make 100.0
B
27/8:
P a r t
A :
M u l s i f a n
CPA
Oxypon 288
P a r a f f i n o i l
DAB
O l e i c a c i d
ami ne
e n e g l y c o l
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent
27/2:
P a r t A :
Zusol a t 1005/85
S h e l l s o l T
P a r a f f i n o i l
DAB
A e r o s i l 2 0 0
Perfume
P a r t
8 :
Oxypon 2145
E x t r a k t 5 2
Euxyl
K
400
Water
Manu fac tu re :
P a r t B t o P a r t
A
w h i l s t s t i r r i n g .
P a r t
A
a n d Pa r t
B
a r e t o be m ix ed s e p a r a t e l y .
4.0
1
.O
25.0
5.0
2 .5
6.0
56.2
0 -2
0 .1
10.5
34.5
9 .0
1 .O
0.1-0 .2
2.5
15.0
0.2
27.1-27.2
F i n a l l y add
SOURCE: Zschlmrner
&
Schwarr
GmbH
& Co,: Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
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364
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Cleaners from Concentrate
Economy
Miracare ANL
Fragrance, Dye, Pr es e r va t i ve
Sod i um C h lo r id e
Water
Pearlescent
M ir a ca re ANL
M i rasheen 202
Fragrance , Dye, P re se rv a t i v e
So d i u m Ch l o r i d e
Water
Miracare ANL
Fragrance , Dye, P re se rv a t i v e
So d i u m Ch l o r i d e
Water
M i r ac a re ANL
Opaci f r E-305
Fragrance, Dye, P re se rv a t i v e
Sod i urn
C h l
o r i de
Water
Premium
Lotion
W
30.1)
Q S
2-3
6 7 . 5
y
3 2 . 5
7 . 5
Q S
0.5-1
- 5
59 .0
Wt.
40.0
Q S
0 . 5 -1 . 5
59.0
Wt.
37.5
0 . 5
Q . S .
1-2
60.5
Procedure :
ANL. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e te l y u n i f o r m and t h e n b l e n d i n r e m ai n in g
i n g r e d i e n t s i n o rd e r l i s t e d . A d j us t f o rm u la t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o
d e s i r e d l e v e l w i t h a d d i t i o n o f s odium c h l o r i d e , as needed.
P h y s i ca l P r o p e r t i e s
:
A pp ea ra nce : C l e a r , y e l l o w , p e a r l i z e d
o r
opaque
pH, a s i s : 7-0
V i s c o s i t y :
2000-4000
cps
Formula HA-0096
C harge w a t er i n t o m i x i n g v e s se l and s l o w l y b l e n d
i n
M i r a c a r e
SOURCE:
Rhone-Poulenc : Sugges ted Fo rm ula t io ns
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Soap and Hand Cleaners 365
Industr ial and Inst itut ional Liquid Hand Soaps
Glucopon & AS
Water
Standapol
WAQ-SP
Glucopon 425 CS
Vel ve te x BA-35
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
Water
Sodium LAS
(60 )
Glucopon 600 CSUP
Vel v e te x BA-35
Standamid
SD
Water
Standapol
ES-2
Glucopon 600 CSUP
Standamid SD
Vel v et e x BA-35
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
Glucopon & LAS
Glucopon & AES
Glucopon & AOS
Water
Sodium
AOS
(40 )
Glucopon 600 CSUP
Standamid SD
Velvetex BA-35
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
V is c os i t y o f P roduc ts : 4000-5000 cPs
61 .O
27.0
6 . 0
2 . 8
3 .2
77.2
10.0
8.0
2 .8
2 .0
58.9
30.0
6 . 0
1 . o
2 .8
1 . 3
67.0
20 .0
6 . 0
1 . o
2 .8
3 . 2
Procedure :
u s i n g m oderate a g i t a t i o n . A d j u s t pH t o 6.5 -7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
I n c o r p o r a t e c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as needed.
SOURCE: Henkel Corp.: Suggested Formula t ions
Add i n t h e o r de r l i s t e d , d i s s o l v i n g each i n g r e d i e n t c o mp le te ly
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366 Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Hand Soap Concentrate (Antimicrobial)
Comvonents:
V e l v e t e x
B A - 3 5
G l y c e r i n e
P r o p y l e ne G l y c o l
T r i c l o s a n *
Glucopon
625 CSUP
So d i u m Ch l o r i d e
T e tr as o di um
EDTA
Standapol WAQ-LC
11.7
1.0
. o
. o
15.6
2.0
. o
66.7
Procedure :
Add t h e o r d e r 1 t e d d i s s o l v i ng e ach g r e d i e n t c o m p l e t e l y
u s i n g m od er at e a g i t a t i o n . A d j u s t pH t o
6 .5 -7 .0
w i t h C i t r i c A c i d .
I n c o r p o r a t e p r e s e r v a t i v e ; c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as needed.
For
use, c o n c e n t r a t e s h ou l d b e d i l u t e d by t h e a d d i t i o n
of
25
w t c o n ce n t r a te t o
71.5 w t
d e i o n i z e d wa t e r and
3.5 w t
sodium c h l o r i d e s o l u t i o n
(25%).
The r e s u l t i n g c l e a r l i q u i d hand
soap w i l l have a v i s c o s i t y o f app rox ima te l y 6 ,000 cps .
*
May a l s o use P-Chloro mela x y l e n o l (PCMX)
Waterless Hand Cleaner (Gel)
O i l
Phase:
Deo dori zed Kerosene
Emersol
213
T r y c o l
5963
Standamid KD
Water Phase:
Water
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
G l y c e r i n e
Waterless Hand Cleaner (Lotion)
O i l
Phase:
Oeodori zed Kerosene
Emersol 213
G l y c e r i n e o r
PEG
S t e a r a t e
Water Phase:
Water
T r i
et ha no l ami ne
Pr op yle ne G1 yc o l
Glucopon
425 CS
40.0
7.5
5.0
. o
41 .O
3.5
2.0
W a
40.0
7.5
2.0
40.0
3.0
3.0
4.5
Procedure :
h e a t i n g b ot h t o 60C. S lo w ly p ou r t h e o i l i n t o t h e w at er w h i l e
s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g u n t i l
a
homogeneous
p r o d u c t i s fo rm ed . I n c o r p o r a t e c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e a s n eed ed .
SOURCE:
Henkel C o r p , : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
M ix t h e o i l and w a te r phases s e p a ra t e l y i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d ,
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Soap
and
Hand Cleaners
67
Liquid
Hand Soap Formulations
Miracare ANK is also an ideal base for preparation of
e m o l l i e n t L i q u i d
Hand Soap products.
The rich
creamy
lather
typical of formu lations der ive d from Miracare ANK i s extremely
stable even
in the
presence
of
heavy
soils.
Lotion Hand Soap
Requires No
Heat
Water 61.0
Miracare ANK 30.0
Mirasheen 202 7.5
Fragrance, Dye, Pres ervati ve Q.S.
Sodium C h l o r i d e 1 .5
B l e n d i n g
Procedure:
Charge water in to m i x i n g vessel
and blend
balance
of
ingred-
ients
in order listed.
Cream Soap
Requires Heat)
Water 62.0
Mi racare ANK
35.0
A l k a m u l s EGMS 1
.5
Fragrance, Dye, Preservative
Q.S.
Sod i u m
C h l o r i d e 1
.5
Blending Procedure:
Charge water and ANK
into
m i x i n g
vessel
and heat to 75C.
Add and
disperse
A l ka m u l s
EGMS. Cool with
m i x i n g to 4OC and blend
i n
r e m a i n i n g i n gred i e nts.
Liquid Hand Soap
Parts
bv
Weight
Rhodaterge SMC 8
Water 92
Perfume, Dye, Preservative
Q.S.
SOURCE:
Rhone-Poulenc:
Suggested Formulations
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68 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Soap
Ma r l a t 242/28
M a r l a t
CM
1 0 5
Amphol y t JA
1 4 0
D i o n i l O C / K
Lamepon S
Camomi 1 e Spec i a1
L ime Blossom Spec ia l
C o ll a g e n CLR
Perfume
Co l o u r
P r e s e r v a t i v e
NaCl
Water
t o 1
3 2 . 0
1 8 . 0
1 0 . 0
3 . 0
2 0
0 . 5
0 . 5
0 . 8
qs
qs
qs
qs
100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d ju s t e d t o
5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
The c om pon ents a re m ix e d t o g e t h e r i n se que nc e and s t i r r e d
Liquid Soap
M a r l i n a t 2 4 2 / 2 8
Lamepon S
M a r l i n a t DFN
3 0
M a r l a m i d
PG
20
Ma rl am id DF 1218
Perfume
Co l ou r
P r e s e r v a t i v e
NaCl
Water
1 0 . 0
6 0
3.0
1
. o
qs
qs
qs
qs
t o
1 0 0 . 0
22 o
P r e p a r a t i o n
:
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE:
H u l s A me ri ca I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m et ic s:
The c om po nen ts a re m i xe d t o g e t h e r i n se qu en ce and s t i r r e d
Su g g e s t e d Fo rm u l a t i o n s
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0
21/65:
Ze t e s o l
N L
P u r t o n
SFD
Sod i um s u l f a t e
Perfume
C i t r i c a c i d
Wat er , p r e s e r v a t e
Soap and Hand Cleaners 369
Liquid Synthetic Soaps
0
21/64:
E x t r a k t 5 2
P u r t o n
S FD
Water , pe r fume, p r es e r va t i ve , sod ium
c h l o r i d e
43.00
3.00%
3.00%
0.20
0.05
q . s .
t o make 100.00
30.0%
2.0
q . s .
t o make 100.0
0
21/61:
Zeteso l 856 T
Se t a c i n 1 0 3 Sp e z i a l
P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055
P u r t o n
SFD
W ate r, p r e s e r v a t i v e , p e rf um e, sod iu m c h l o r i d e ,
c i t r i c a c i d
q . s
B
21/92:
Zeteso l 2056
S e t a c i n 1 0 3 s p e z i a l
P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l
GM
4175
Oxypon 288
S o d i u m c h l o r i d e
W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e
0
21/87:
Zeteso l 2056
Amphotensid
B
4
P u r t o n
CFD
Perfume
W a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i v e
25.0
10.0%
5.0
1
.O
t o make 100.0
25 0
30.0
10.0
2.0
2,0
q . s .
t o make 100 ,0
20 0%
9.0
1 . 5
0.3%
q . s . t o make 100.0
SOURCE:
Zschdmmer
&
Schwarr
GmbH &
C o . :
Su gg e st e d Fo rm u l a t i o n s
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37 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Soap with Aloe Vera Gel
T h is i s a c l e a n s i n g and c o n d i t i o n i n g l i q u i d soap w i t h A lo e
Vera.
Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 28 a c t i v e 3 5 .7 0
Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 26 a c t i v e 1 9 .2 0
Phase
B:
C i t r i c a c i d , anhydrous 0 . 2 0
Phase
C :
Dei on i zed wa ter 20 .45
Po lyqua te rn ium-10 0 .75
Phase
D:
Laurami de
DEA
3 .00
L a u ry l m e t h yl g l u c e t h -1 0 h y d ro x y p ro p y l di mo ni um
c h l o r i d e
8 00
PEG-120 me thy l g l uc os e d eo le at e 2.00
T et ra so di urn
EDTA 0 I 2 0
Phase
E :
Al oe Vera Gel (T e rr y AG002) 10 .0 0
Phase
F:
S u t t o c i d e A
0.30
Fragrance qs
Procedure :
Add Phase
A
i n g r e d i e n t s t o m ai n m i x i n g v e s s e l , and co mb in e
w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Heat
t o
60C. D is so lv e Phase
B
i n g r e d i e n t s . I n a p r e mi x c o n t a i n e r , d i s p e r s e Phase C g r e d i e n t s
Hea t t o 60C t o h yd ra te . When Phase
A i s
un if or m , add Phase
C
t o
m ai n v e s s e l , a g i t a t i n g be tw een each a d d i t i o n . C ool b a t c h t o 40C.
Slowly add Phases
E
and
F
w i t h a d e q u a t e m i x i n g .
SOURCE:
T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : S ugg es te d F o r m u l a t i o n
Pearlescent Liquid Hand Soap
Phase
A :
I n a r e d i e n t :
Water
DOBSA,
Na s a l t
(60 )
Add, m ix w e l l
L a u ry l e t h e r s u l f a t e , Ammon. s a l t (60 )
Add, m ix w e l l
L y t r o n 295 o p a c i
f e r
Add, m ix w e l l
E u p e r l a n PK-771 p e a r l i z e r
Add, m ix w e l l
Tomah A0-728 S p e c ia l
Add, mix w e l l
t
54.70
23.50
16.50
0.10
2 .2 0
3.00
pH: 7.85
Recommended D i l u t i o n s : 1 o t . / g a l
Ap p l i c a t i o n s : Hand soap o r d is h wa s h
No te s : H i g h foam, d e g re a s i n g - l a n o l i n ca n b e a dd ed f o r f e e l
V i s c o s i t y 360 cp s
SOURCE:
Tomah La bo ra to r i e s , I n c . : Fo rmula
PC-101
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Soap and Hand Cleaners 371
Low Cost Clear Cleansing Bar
I n a r e d i e n t s :
P a r t
A :
Pr op yle ne G1 yc o l
11
. o
G1 y c e r i n
7 . 0
Cr ovo l PK-70 (PEG-45 Palm Ke rn el G ly c e r id e s )
3 .0
In c ro m e c ta n t AMEA-70 (A ce ta mi de MEA)
9.3
Cr od as in i c LS30 (Sod i um Lau roy l Sa rcos i na te ) 6 . 7
I n c ro m i d e
CAC
(Cocamide
DEA
Cocoyl Sa rco s ine ) 7 .0
Te a l s * 9 .0
Dei on i zed Water
6 . 0
Sodium Cum enesu l fonat e (45 )
2.0
TEA (99 )
2.0
P a r t
B :
Sucrose 9 . 0
P a r t C :
Tal low Soap
7325 28.0
Procedure :
Add Part
0
w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l u n i fo r m . Add P a r t
C
w i t h m i x i n g
w h i l e h e a t i n g t o
95-1OOC.
M i x in g u n t i l t a l l o w i s d i ss o l ve d
(20-30
m i n u t e s ) . A v o id w a t er l o s s by c o v e r i n g m i x i n g v e s s e l .
Sk i n o f f s u r f a c e f oam and p o ur i n t o m o l ds . A l l o w m old ed soap
t o
c o o l
SOURCE:
Croda I n c , : Fo r mu l a t i o n SC-252
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t
A
w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 80-9OC.
N.A .T. C. Approved *Standami de
T
Shower Soap
Weight
.
Mackana te EL (D isod ium L aur e th Su l fo su cc ina te )
20.0
Mackanate OM
( D i
sod i um 01 eam ido
MEA
Su l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 1 5. 0
Sod i um La ur y l - S u l f a t e
1 0 .0
Mackami de LLM (L aur ami de DEA) 6 .0
Mackpear l LV (P e ar l Agen t)
3.0
Mackern ium 007 ( Po lyq uat ern ium 7 )
2.5
M a c k s t a t DM
(DMDM
Hy d a n t o i n ) 9 s
C i t r i c
A c i d
qs
t o pH
6 .0
So d i u m Ch l o r i d e
qs
t o
10,000
cps
Water, Dye, Fragrance
qs
t o 10 0.0
Procedure :
1.
Di s p e rs e M a ck erni um 007 i n wa t e r .
2.
Add re ma in in g component and hea t t o 40 degrees C .
3.
A d j us t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
4. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .
5 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE:
M c I n t y r e
Group
L t d . : Su g g e s t e d Fo rm u l a t i o n
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37 osmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Medicated Skin Cleaner
Rhodapon LT-6
RhodaDon 21
LS
Wt.
2 5 . 0
3 0 . 0
50 Sodi
u m
Hy dr ox i de Aqueous
Sol
u t i on l . S . t o pH
8 . 0
PCMX
1
. o
Water 23.4
Alkamide
DL
203/S 2.5
C y c l o t e r i c BET
C
30 7 .5
Geropon SBFA 30
1 0 .0
A1 kamu 1s
EGMS
0 . 6
Fragrance and Dye Q S
Procedure :
1 . Charge Rhodapon LT-6 and Rhodapon 21LS i n t o mi x in g ve ss el .
Warm system t o 45-50C. Wi th smoo th a g i t a t i o n , a d ju s t pH t o
8 . 0
w i t h s od iu m h y d ro x i d e s o l u t i o n ( 50 Aq . ) , as n ee de d.
M i x u n t i l system i s c o m p le t e l y u n i f o rm .
and wa t e r . Hea t sy st em t o 70-75C w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n .
A1 kamul
s
EGMS. M a in ta in 70-75C te mp er at ur e u n t i 1 system
c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . C ool t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n co m p a t i b le
f r a g ra n c e a n d d y e .
A pp ea ra nc e: V i s co u s , p e a r l e s c e n t l i q u i d
pH ( a s i s ) : 8 . 0- 8 .5
V i s c o s i t y 25C: 10 ,000-14,000 cps
Ap p ro x . So l i d s
( ) :
30.4
A c t i v e I n g re d i e n t : Pa ra c h l o ro m e t a x y l e n o l (PCMX)
Formula HA-0100
2. W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n
PCMX.
3 . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n A lk a mi de DL 203/S
4. S lo wl y b le n d i n C y c l o t e r i c
BET
C 30, Geropon SBFA 30 and
T y p ic a l P r o p e r t i e s A f t e r 2 4 Hours :
Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaner
Wt.
Rhodapon S 0
8208/S
30 .0
Rhodacal A-246/L 6. 3
O l e i c A c id 1 . 6
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 9
M i
rasheen 202
10.0
Sodium C h lo r i de 1-3
F ra g ra n c e , Dy e , P re s e rv a t i v e Q S
Water
Q.S
t o 100
Procedure :
M i rasheen
202
and Water i n t o r e a c t o r and m ix u n t i l u n i f or m .
S l o w l y b l e n d i n o l e i c a c i d f o l l o w e d by f ra g ra n ce , dye, p r e s e r v-
a t i v e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y b y b l e n d in g i n sodium c h l o r i d e . C on ti nu e
a g i t a t i o n u n t i l system i s u n i f o r m and th e n package.
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
Charge Rhodapon
SB
8208/S, Rhodacal A-246/L, Tr ie th an ola mi ne ,
Appearance: W h it e, p e a r l i z e d l i q u i d
pH, a s i s :
7-8
V i s c o s i t y : 2000-3000 c p s
Formula HA-0098
SOURCE:
Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Fo rm ula t io ns
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Soap and Hand
Cleaners
373
Mild Lotion Soap
Rhodapon L-22
Rhodapex MA-360
Cyc lo te r i c BET-C-30
A1 kamide
DC
212/S
Geropon SBFA-30
A1 kamul
s
EGMS
C i t r i c A c i d
Sod ium Ch lo r i de
Water
F rag rance , Dye, Pr es e r va t i ve
Wt.
17.0
3 . 0
2 . 0
1 . 5
5 . 0
1 . o
0 . 5 -1 . 5
Q . S .
t o pH 5 -6
6 9 . 5
Q S
Procedure :
L-22, Rhodapex MA-360, C y c l o t e r i c BET-C-30, Al ka mi de
DC
212/S,
and Rhodacal SBFA-30. Mix u n t i 1 co mp le t e ly u n i fo rm . Heat systems
t o 65-70C. Dis per se A lkamuls EGMS i n t o heate d sys tem and mix
u n t i l u n i f o r m . C ool t o 40-45C and b l en d i n c i t r i c a c i d , f r a g -
rance , dye and p re se rv a t i ve . Add sodium c h l o r i d e , as needed,
t o a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n t o d e s i r e d r an ge ( 3,000-6,000 c ps a t 25C ).
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es
:
Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s se l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodapon
A ppe ara nce a t 25C: P e a r l e s c e n t l i q u i d
V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 3 ,000-6 ,000
cps
as d e s i r e d )
pH ( a s i s ) : 5 -6
So l i d s : 1 3 . 5 -1 4 . 5
Formula HA-0103
Liquid Hand Soap
M i r a t a i ne CB
Rhodapon LSB
Cyclomide DC-212/S
Water
Procedure :
m ix u n t i l u n i f o rm .
P h y s i ca l P r o p e r t i e s :
Add t h e wa t e r . W i t h m i x
Appearance: C lea r , v e r y
V i
s c o s i t y : 6 00 -7 00
S p e c i f i c G r a v i t y
: 1
.04
Formula HA-0071
pH: 8.9-9.0
ng, add t h e remain
l i g h t y e l lo w s o l u t
W
10.0
30.0
2.0
58.0
ng m a t e r i a l s and
on
SOURCE:
Rhone-Poulenc : Sugees ted Fo rm ul a t i on s
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374
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Premium Emollient Hand Soap
Rhodacal A-246/L
C y c l o t e r i c
BET-C
30
Alkamide LE
Alkamul EGMS
D i sod i um EDTA
G l y c e r i n e
C i t r i c A c i d
Sod ium Ch lor ide
Frag rance , Dye, Pre se rv a t i v e
Water
Wt.
2 3 . 0
4 .5
1 . 5
2 . 0
0 . 1
0 .2
Q .S . t o pH 6 .2 -6 .7
Q S t o 3 ,000-5 ,000 cps
Q S
Q S t o
100
Procedure :
a t i on , warm t o 70-75C. B lend i n A lkamide
L E ,
Alkamul EGMS,
Disod ium EDTA and G l y c e r i n e . Once sy stem i s u n i f o r m , c o o l t o
35C w i t h s mooth a g i t a t i o n and b l e n d i n f r a g r a n c e , d ye , p r e s -
e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 .2 -6 .7 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d and add sodium
c h l o r i d e a s needed t o v i s c o s i t y t o 3,00 0-5 ,000 c ps (2 5C ).
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
Combine Rhodacal A-246/L and Water and w i t h moderate a g i t -
Appearance: P e a r l i z e d l i q u i d
pH, as i s : 6 .2 -6 .7
V is c o s i t y : 3000-5000 cps
Formula HA-0095
Hand Cleaner
M i r a n o l C2M Conc.
NP
M i r a t a i n e
CB
Rhodapon LSB
Water
Wt.
16.0
5.0
1 6 . 0
6 3 0
A d j us t pH t o 7 .5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
Procedure :
m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
Add t h e w a t e r . W i t h m i x i n g , add t h e r e m a i n i n g m a t e r i a l s a nd
App earance: S l i g h t l y h azy g e l
pH: 7.5
V i s co s i y : 1500-2000
Speci f Grav i t y 1 .040B
Formula HA-0070
SOURCE:
Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Fo rm ul at io ns
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Soap and Hand Cleaners
375
A l l
q u a n t i t i e s i n d i c a t e d
e x p re s s ed as p a r t s by we i g h t
a re on a p e r c e n ta g e b a s i s
so
any s i z e b at ch may be conven
n t h e f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a t io n s a r e
o f t h e f i n i s h e d soap. These w e i g h t s
t h a t q u a n t i t i e s n ec es sa ry t o p ro du ce
e n t l y c a l c u l a t e d .
6) Triethanolamine Oleic-Coconut Shampoo (40% Real Soap)
Emery 621 Coconut F a t t y Ac id ( a c i d va lu e 263) 12 .7
Emery 213 Low T i t e r O l e i c Ac i d ( a c i d v a l u e 2 03 ) 1 2 . 7
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (a v g . m o l .
w t .
1 4 0 ) 1 4 . 7
C a r b i t o 1 7 . 0
W ate r t o 1 0 0 .0
Procedure :
B le nd t h e o l e i c and c oc on ut f a t t y a c i d s . D i s s o l v e t h e
t r i
e t h an o la m i ne i n t h e r e q u i r e d amount o f w a t e r a nd pr o c ee d a s f o r
t h e cocon ut shampoo, fo rm ula
4,
w i t h t h e e x ce p t io n t h a t h e a t i n g
i s n o t e s s e n t i a l . Longer s t an d in g i s r e q u i r e d w i t h o u t h e a t , b u t
t h e a b i l i t y t o make soaps w i t h o u t h e a t i n g may be v a l u a b l e i n
p a r t i c u l a r s i t u a t i o n s .
P r o p e r t i e s and V a r i a t i o n s :
v e r y m i l d and n o n i r r i t a t i n g . The C a r b i t o l g i v e s t h e soap a
p l e a s i n g od or a nd c o n t r i b u t e s
t o
t h e c l e a n s i n g power o f t h e
shampoo.
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e soaps c an no t b e ch eck ed f o r n e u t r a l i t y b y
t h e usua l methods , b u t even i f an e xcess o f t r ie t h a n o la m i n e i s
p r e s e n t , t h e soap w i 11 be on1 y
m i
1 d l y a1 k a l e .
T h i s soap p ro du ct i s a c l e a r l i q u i d o f amber t o r e d c o l o r ,
7 Coconut-Oleic Hand Soap
(15
Real Soap)
Emery 621 Coconu t F a t t y Ac id ( a c i d va lu e 263) 6 .5
Eme rs ol 213 Low T i t e r O l e i c Ac i d ( a c i d v a l u e 2 03 ) 6 . 5
Ca u s t i c p o t a s h (1 00 )
3.0
W ater t o
100.0
Procedure :
P re pa re as f o r f o r m u l a t i o n 4:
D i s s o l v e t h e c a u s t i c i n t h e n e ce ss ar y amount o f w a t e r ,
h e a t i n g t o 49-54C (12 0-1 30 F), t h e n add t h e f a t t y a c i d i n a
s lo w st ea dy s tr ea m. A g i t a t e w h i l e m i x i n g t h e f a t t y a c i d and
c a u s t i c u n t i l s a p o n i f i c a t i o n i s com ple te . The r e a c t i o n
m i x t u re s h o u l d b e h e a t e d t o 66-71C (150-16OF) d u r i n g t h e
f i n a l s ta ge s
o f
s a p o n i f i c a t i o n .
Perfume as d e s i r e d . A l l o w t h e s oap t o s t a n d and s e t t l e f o r
s e v e r a l d ay s a t n e a r f r e e z i n g te m p e ra t ur e s , i f p o s s i b l e ,
and de ca nt o r f i l t e r t h e soap.
P r o p e r t i e s and V a r i a t i o n s :
D i s t i l l e d p i n e o i l o r o t h e r p er fum e may be added. T h is i s
a t y p i c a l f or m ul a f o r soaps used i n l i q u i d soap d is pe n se rs ,
and many s uc h p ro d u c t s c o n t a i n f l u o r e s c e i n , a d ye t h a t i m p a r t s
a g r ee n i sh-ye1 l ow
f 1
uorescence
.
SOURCE: H enkel Corp./Emery Group: F a t t y A ci ds and T h e i r
Check t h e n e u t r a l i t y o f t h e soap a nd a d j u s t as n e c es s ar y.
Water So lu b le Soaps : Sugges ted For mul a t io ns
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376 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Water Free Hand Cleaner
I n a r e d i e n t s :
I s o s t e a r i c a c i d
M in er a l o i l
B r i j
3 0
Tween
81
Procedure :
M ix w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e .
Waterless Hand Cleaner
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A I s o p a r a f f i n i c hy droc arbo n
La no l i n
C e t y l a1 coho1
P a r a f f i n wax
A r l a c e l
60
Tween
60
B
G l y c e r i n
Wate r, de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q .
s . t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .
2 0 . 0 0
60.00
1 5 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
30.00
1 . 0 0
3.00
2.00
1 . o o
4.00
5 . 0 0
54 00
Procedure :
modera te s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o
35C
and add w a t e r l o s t due t o
e v a p o r a t i o n .
He at (A) t o 70C. Hea t (B ) t o 72C. Add (B ) t o (A ) s l o w l y w i t h
Waterless Hand Cleaner
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A Magnesi um a1 umi num s i
1
c a t e
Wate r, de i on i zed
B
A r l a c e l 6 0
Tween 60
Deodor i zed kerosene
C
M et hy l c e l l u l ose, 4000 cps
Wate r, de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
w/w
2 . 5 0
30.00
2.00
35.00
0 . 5 0
22.00
8 . 0 0
Procedure :
A-Add
MAS
t o H20 s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l smooth.
(About
1
h o u r ) . H e a t
A )
t o 62C. 8 -Hea t t o 60C. Add (A ) t o ( 8 ) .
S t i r
u n t i l c o o l . C -Heat 1 /2
o f
H20 t o 9OC and add m e th y l c e l l u lo s e
s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d i sp er se d . Add ( C) t o (A&B) w i t h
a gi t a t n .
SOURCE: IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Soap and Hand Cleaners 377
Waterless Hand Cleaner
A . M o n t m o r i l l o n i t e
( 1 )
Water
B .
Potass ium Hydrox ide
Water
C .
O l e i c A c id
Deodor ized Kerosene
P o l y s o r b a t e
80,
A ce ty la te d Lano l A1 coho1
,
C e t y l A c e t at e ( 2 )
P e t r o l a t u m
D .
Acuscrub
50
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
W S
3 . 0
3 9 . 5
1 5
10
6.0
25.0
3 . 0
2.0
1 0 . 0
q . s .
Procedure :
S lo w ly add t h e M o n t m o r i l l o n i t e t o t h e wa te r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g
a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . D i s s o l v e t h e p o t a s s iu m h y d r o x i d e
i n t h e w a t e r , Add
B
t o
A
w i t h medium she ar . Heat
A / B
t o
6 0 C .
Combine
C
and hea t t o 65C. Cool t o 50C, the n s lo w ly add
Acuscrub
50
u n t i l c o o le d t o 30C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s and mix u n t i l
smoo
(
A . 0
h and un i fo rm.
) M i n e r a l C o l l o i d BP
( 2 )
So l u l a n 9 8
Waterless Hand Cleaner
1 Phase:
P et ro le um D i s t i l l a t e s ( 1 )
O l e i c A c id
C12-15 Pare th-3 (2)
Lano l i n
B . Water Phase:
Water
T r i e t han o l ami ne
G l y c e r i n
W
3 0 . 0
6 . 0
4 0
0 . 5
4 4 . 5
3.0
2 . 0
C . Acuscrub
50
1 0 . 0
Procedure :
50 s l o w l y t o t h e o i l phase w i t h m oderate a g i t a t i o n , S lo w ly p our
t h e w ate r phase i n t o t h e o i l phase w i t h co ns ta nt s t i r r i n g u n t i l
a smooth and un i f o rm ge l i s fo rmed .
H eat b o t h o i l and w a t er phases s e p a r a t e l y t o 5 5 C . Add Acuscrub
1 ) S h e l l
Sol
71 ( 2 ) Neodol 25-3
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i gn a l I n c . : S ugg este d F o r mu l at io n s
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378 Cosmetic and
Toiletry
Formulations
Waterless Hand Cleaner
No. 390
Van Gel
B
Water
Water
O l e i c a c i d
Deodor ized kerosene
A CMC 7MF
B
Po ta ss i um hy dr ox ide
C
C a r n a t i o n W h i t e M i n e r a l
O i l
1 . 7
0 . 3
44.0
1
. o
3.0
10 .0
10.0
30.0
P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
Procedure :
a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s he a r. C o n t i n ue m i x i n g u n t i l
smooth. Add
B
t o
A
and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add
C
t o
A / B
and
m ix u n t i l e m u l s io n i s smooth and u n i f o r m . Add d e s i r e d p r e s -
e r v a t e
.
Con s is t enc y : Med i um v i sc os i t y c ream.
Sug ges ted Packa gi ng : Pump
o r
wide mou th co n ta i ne r
.
Comments:
Van Gel B/CMC t h i ck en s t h i s c o ld p rocess f o rm u la
t o a
medium
v i s c o s i t y cream w h i l e s t a b i l i z i n g t h e e mu ls io n f r o m b l e e d and
s e p a r a t i o n . P ot as si um o l e a t e a l l o w s good c l e a n s i n g a c t i o n a t a
pH o f 8 . The m i ne r a l o i l m in im i ze s d e f a t t i n g o f t h e s k i n caused
b y t h e d e o d o r i z e d k e ro s e ne .
Blend Van Gel
B
and
CMC.
S l o wl y add t o t h e w a te r w h i l e
Liqu id
Waterless Hand Cleaner No.
243
Veegum
G l y c e r i n
2-Amino-2-methy l -1-propanol
Deodor i zed kerosene
O l e i c a c i d
C
A r l a c e l 1 8 6
C1 e a r la n
A Water
B
Terg i to l NP-10
2.0
73.0
4 .0
3 . 0
0 . 5
10.0
1 . 5
5 . 0
1
. o
P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
Procedure :
S l o w l y add Veegum t o t h e wa t e r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum
a v a i l a b l e s he ar . C o n t i n ue m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. Add B t o
A
and
h ea t t o
5 0 C .
Heat
C
t o 55C. Add
C
t o
A / B .
M ix u n t i l u n i fo rm .
Add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e .
C o ns is te n cy : P o ur ab le l i q u i d
Suggested Packaging: Pump dispenser
Comments
:
f o r m u l a t i o n , g l y c e r i n s e rv es as a h um ecta nt w h i l e t h e l a n o l i n
h e lp s p r ev e n t d e f a t t i n g
o f
t h e s k i n .
SOURCE: R . T .
Va n d e r b l l t Co .: Sug ge st ed Fo rm u l a t i o n s
Veegum s t a b i l i z e s and th i c k e n s t h i s l i q u i d em ul si on . I n t h i s
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Section XI
Sun Care Products
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38 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Absorbing Sunscreen
Formula:
Phase
A :
Veegum U l t r a
Dei o n i zed Water
G l y c e r i n
Phase
:
PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e
D i o c t y l Mal a t e
C a r n a t i o n
M i
n e r a l
O i
1
C e t y l A l c o h o l
Benzophenone-3
Octy l D imethy l PABA
S t e a r e t h - 2
S teare th -20
Phase C :
P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e
Synergistic Sunscreen
4 - t e r t - B u t y l - 4 - m e t h o x y d i - b e n z o y l m e t h a n e
Amyl N,N -di me thy l -p-ami nob enz oat e
2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone
C e t y l a l c o h o l
S t e a r i c a c i d
P ro tope t 1 S P e t r o l a t u m
O l i v e O i l
Squa l ane
P r o py l en e g l y c o l
Po t ass i um hy dr ox i de
T a l c
T r i s o d i um EDTA
Water
%Wt.
1 .5 0
70 .50
5 .50
3 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
4.00
0.50
3 . 0 0
7 . 0 0
0 .90
2.10
q . s .
2 .00
3 . 0 0
2.00
3 .00
3 . 0 0
3.00
3.00
5 .00
3 . 0 0
0 . 2 0
5 . 0 0
0 .02
q . s t o 1 00 .0 0
S OU R C E
W i t c o Corp . : P e t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s G roup: S uggested
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Sun Care Products
381
Absorbing Sunscreen
Formula:
Phase A :
L-Ty r os i ne
Phenyl a1 ani ne
A s p a r t i c a c i d
Esc i n
Copper g luconate
Hy dro 1 y ze d c o l l agen
C a r r o t o l e o r e s i n
S t .
J o h n ' s Wort e x t r a c t
D i
hydroxyacetone
C e t y l a l c o h o l
P r e s e r v a t i v e
E m u l s i f i e r s , t h i c k e n i n g a ge nt s
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l
Lanol i n
S t e a r i n
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (85%)
Water
0.20%
0.10
0.10
0 . 0 5
0.01
1.50
0.15
. o o
0.50
. o o
4.00
15.00
3.00
3.00
1 - 0 0
q . s .
up t o 100.00
q . s .
Water Resistant SP4 Sunscreen Composition
Water
G l y c e r i n
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 8 o l e a t e
Padimate
0
Cyc lometh icone
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1
Lanol i a1 coho1
P ro p yl en e g l y c o l ( an d) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a ( a nd )
Perfume o i l
paraben (and) propyl paraben (Germaben 1 1 )
Non-Alcoholic Sunscreen
Octy l d imethyl PABA
Benzophenone-3
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1
O l e t h - 2
I s o c e t e t h - 2 0
Water
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
S o r b i t o 1
67.00%
5.00
3.00
4.00
10.00
5.00
5.00
0.50
0.50
methy l
7.00%
3.00
10.00
6.25
40.00
4.00
o o
18.75
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o le u m S p e c i a l t i e s G ro up: S ug ge st ed
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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382 Cosmetic and
Toiletry Formulations
After Sun Lotion
P a r t
I
Water
Carbomer
934
P a r t 11:
Rosswax 2540
Rosswax 1824
76
O i
Coconut
O i l
GMS SE
Ross Jojoba
P a r t 111:
Aloe Vera
L
P a r t
I V :
Germaben I 1
P a r t V :
F rag rance
Pa r t s by Wei ah t
500.0
2 . 0
6.0
15.0
25.0
6.0
4.0
q u i d 10.0
6 . 0
P a r t V I :
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
q . s .
4.5
Procedure:
934
w i t h a g i t a t i o n . I n a se pa ra te ja c ke t e d k e t t l e h ea t P a r t
I 1
u n t i l c l e a r . Next add P a r t 111, t h e n P a r t I V , t h e n P a r t
V ,
f r a g r an c e and f i n a l l y add P a r t V I . Cool t o 130F and package.
H ea t t h e w a te r i n a steam j ac ke te d k e t t l e and add t h e Carbomer
Solar Tanning Oil Mousse
P a r t ( A ) :
R o s s Base
O i l 2539
E s c a l o l
507
A r l a c e l 6 0
Tween 60
P a r t 9 ) :
Water
Germaben I 1
F rag rance
%
62
.s
5.0
3.0
4.0
24.7
. o
q . s
Procedure:
H ea t P a r t ( A ) and P a r t ( B) i n s e p ar a te s t a i n l e s s s t e e l
v e ss e ls under g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n t o
170F.
When temp era tu re i s
r ea ch ed and b o t h a r e c l e a r , add P a r t ( B) t o P a r t ( A ) , c o o l t o
120F,
Fragrance and package.
A e roso l F i l l : 90% o f above c o n c e n t r a t e
N o t e : Pack i n Epon l i n e d ca ns w i t h P r e c i s i o n V a l v e Syste ms.
S OU R C E
Frank 9 . Ross
Co.,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
10%
o f
A-46
P ro pe l l e n t
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Sun Care Products 383
Aloe After Sun Lotion (40 Aloe)
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A . Water
G1 y c e r i n
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
Germaben
I 1
0 . S t e a r i c A c id
L i g h t m in er al o i l
F i n e s o l v
TN
C e t y l A l c o h o l
S i l i c o n F l u i d 225
Cocoa Bu t te r
I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e
P e rcen t
74.00
3.0
. o
0 . 5
8 . 0
5 . 0
2 . 0
1
. o
0.5
2.0
2.0
C . A l o e Ve ra ge l L i q u i d C o n c e n t ra t e 1:40 1
. o
D .
Fragrance q . s .
Procedure:
Heat phases t o 80C. A t 80C add o i l phase t o w a te r phase .
M i x and coo l t o 55C. Add A l oe con cen t ra t e t o ba t ch a t 5%.
Add f r a g r a n c e a t
45C.
Suntan Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A . Lexemul 561
S t e a r i c a c i d
Ce ty l a1 coho1
M in er a l o i l
Sesame o i l
Laneth
10
A c e t a t e
E t h y l D i h yd ro xy p ro p yl PABA
Mink o i l
Po lysorba te 20
Lexgard P
B. P ropy l ene G l y co l
Carbomer
934
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
A l o e Ve ra L i q u i d 1:l
Lexgard M
Water
P e rcen t
4.00
2.00
. o o
4.00
. o o
0.50
3.00
0.10
0.20
0.05
4.00
0.20
10.00
0.15
qs t o pH 7 . 2 - 7 . 5
qs
to 100
Procedure:
t h e n n e u t r a l i z e . D i s s o l v e L ex ga rd
M
i n p r o py l e n e g l y c o l and add
t o t h e w at er w i t h t h e r e ma in in g c o nt e n ts o f P a r t B. S e p a r a t e l y
m e l t c on t en t s o f P a r t
A
t o g e t h e r . S l o w ly add P a r t A t o P ar t
B
w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o s e t p o i n t and
f i l l .
F u l l c o n d i t i o n i ng
develops i n 24 hours .
SOURCE:
D r .
M ad js L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat wa te r t o 7OC. Di sp er se Carbomer
934.
M ix u n t i l d i s so l ve d ,
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384 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aloe Suntan Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A .
Water
G1 y c e r i
Glucamate SSG-20
Carbopol 934
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
B . G1 ucate-SS
C e t y l a l c o h o l
C e ty l p a l m i t a t e
G l y c e ry l s t e a r a t e
P . E . G . 100 s t e a r a t e
S t e a r i c a c i d
E s c a l o l 507
M in er a l o i l
P e rcen t
q . s
4.0
1 .5
0 . 1
q . s
1 . 5
1
. o
1 . o
0.22
0.28
4.0
4 . 0
5.0
C . A.M.P.-95 0.32
D . Al oe Ver age l 200 Powder
0 . 1
W ate r 9 .9
Procedure:
D i s s o lv e t h e
S . D .
A l oe V era i n w a te r t o p r e p a re g e l . H ea t
ba l ance
o f
w ate r t o 80C and d i s s o l v e C a rbopo l . Add r e s t o f Phase
“ A ” and keep te mp er at ur e a t 80C. Heat phase
” B ”
t o 80C. and add
t o ” A ” . Add phase
” C ” .
Cool t o 35C. and add ’ I D ” . M ix we1 1 .
After Sun Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A . Water
Carbomer
B . Rosswax 2540
Rosswax 1824
Coconut
O i l #6
Gms
S E
Ross Jojoba
O i
1
P ercen t
500.0
g r .
2 . 0 g r .
6 . 0
g r .
1 5. 0 g r .
1 5 . 0 g r .
6.0 g r .
4 . 0 g r .
C . A l oe Vera L i q u i d 1 : l 1 0. 0 g r .
D . Germaben I 1
6 . 0
g r .
E . F rag rance q . s .
F . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 4 .5 g r .
Procedure:
H ea t t h e w a t e r i n s tea m j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and a dd t h e Carbomer
934 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . I n a s ep a ra te j a c k e te d k e t t l e , h e at B t i l l
c l e a r . N ex t add
B
t o t h e w a te r p hase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . N ex t add
C, t h e n D, t h e n E , f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y a dd F. C oo l t o 1 30F and
package.
SOURCE: D r . M ad is L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c .
:
S uggested F o r mu l a t i ons
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Sun
Care
Products
385
Buffered Self Tanning Lotion
R e s u l t i n g p r o du c t i s a p o ur a b l e l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be dis pe ns ed
f ro m an opaque g la s s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The f o r m u l a t i o n
u t i l i z e s a 5% D i hy d ro x y ac e to n e (DHA) a s t h e s e l f t a n n i n g
i n g r e d i e n t . The f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a in s n o amines t o r e a c t w i t h
D i h yd r ox y a ce t o ne a nd t h e f i n a l pH
i s
a d j u s te d t o a p p ro x im a t e l y
4, t o i n s u r e n a t u r a l c o l o r e d t a n d ev elo pm en t. The f o r m u l a t i o n
a p p l i e s e a s i l y and e v e nl y . The f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t s h o u ld be
s t o r e d away f r o m l i g h t a nd a t t e m p e r a t u r e c o n d i t i o n s b e lo w 40C
t o p re ve n t
DHA
f r om deg rad i ng .
?&&
A . Dei on i zed Water 62.18
Methy lparaben (Lexgard
M)
0.20
2,4 -D ich lo ro benz y l A l c oh o l (Myac ide SP) 0 .20
Pro pyle ne G ly c o l USP 3.0 0
G l y c e r i n 1 . o o
C i t r i c Ac id USP-FCC (Anhydrous F i ne Gr an u l a r ) 0 .24
Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC 0. 28
B.
H y d ro x ye t hy l ce l u l o s e ( Ce l o s i ze PP-15,OOOH) 0 .20
C .
Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (Lexemul 515) 2 .00
G ly ce ry l S te ar at e (and) PEG-100 St ea ra te (Lexemul 56 ) 4.00
S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ( A r l ace1 60) 0.60
P ropy l ene G1 yc o l D i ca p r y l a t e /D i cap r a te
(
Lex o l PO-865 2.00
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 3 .0 0
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l EHS) 1 . o o
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P ) 0 .10
D. Dihydroxyace tone 5 .00
De io ni zed Water 15.00
Procedure :
1 . Combine sec t i on A he a t i ng t o 75-8OC. Use a p r o p e l l e r m i xe r
f o r a g i t a t i o n .
2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n
8
i n t o s e c t i o n A . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g s pe ed
t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t h en s lo w t o h i g h es t
speed wh ich does no t p rod uce a vo r t ex .
3 . Combine s e c t i o n
C .
He at t o 80-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s l ow
m i x i ng.
4. When sect ions AB and Cot ar e homogeneous and a t t h e d es ig -
n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s a d d s e c t i o n C t o s e c t i o n s "AB". I n c r e a s e
m i x i n g s pe ed t o a h i g h spe ed . B e g in c o o l i n g . S lo w m i x i n g s pe ed
t o h i gh e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t c ause v o r t e x i n g .
a n d c o o l i n g .
5 . U s i ng g l oves , combine se c t i o n D and m ix u n t i l c l e a r .
6 .
A dd sec t i on D t o se c t i o ns "ABC" a t 35-4013. Con t in ue m ix in g
7 .
A t
30-35C a d j u s t f o r w a t er l o s s .
8 . M ix b at ch u n t i l i t reaches room temperature .
9 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 4.00-4.10 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d o r Sodium
C i t r a t e s o l u t i o n s , as r e qu i re d .
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
V i s c o s i t y : 1,700 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, T A 10 rpm)
pH:
1.0
24C
SOURCE: I n o l e x C hemi ca l C o. : F o r mu l a t i o n 398-101-1
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386
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Cooling After Sun Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Phase A :
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l G lu c os e D i s t e a r a t e ( Te go C ar e
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e go s o ft CT)
M i n e r a l
O i l
Phase 8:
G1 y c e r i n
Water
Phase C:
M i n e r a l O i l
Carbomer 941
Ethano l
Phase D :
Sodium H yd ro x i de (10% so l u t i o n )
Phase E :
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
Procedure :
1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s
o f
Phase A t o 80C.
2 .
H ea t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P hase B t o 80C.
3. Add A t o 0 o r € t o A w i th o u t s t i r r i n g . 4 . S t i r .
5 . D is p er se Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A / B .
6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
7.
Add Ethanol .
8. Add phase
D / E .
S t i r .
9 . M ix u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t .
w
450)
2 . 0
6 . 5
5.7
3 . 0
71 .4
0 .8
0 . 2
10 .0
0 . 4
Q . S .
Q . S .
Homogenize
Suntan Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Phase A :
P o l yg l yc e r y l - 3 Me thy l G lucose D i s te a r a t e (Tego Ca re 450 ) 2 . 0
D ecy l O l ea te (T egoso f t DO) 6 . 5
Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate
7 . 0
Oxybenzone 3.0
Phase
8:
G l y c e r i n 3 . 0
Water 71 . 4
Phase C :
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T eg o s of t P ) 0 .8
Carbomer 941 0 . 2
Phase D :
Sod i urn Hy d ro xi de
( 1 0%
s o l u t i on ) 0 .4
Phase E:
F ragrance Q . S .
P r e s e r v a t i v es
Q . S .
Procedure:
1 .
He at t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . H ea t t h e i n g r e d -
i e n t s o f Phase B t o 80C. 3 . Add
A
t o B o r
B
t o A w i t h o u t
s t i r r i n g . 4 . S t i r . 5 . D is p er se Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r
add t o
A / B .
Homogenize.
6 .
Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
7 . Add Phase
D / E .
S t i r . 8 . M i x u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t .
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t
P)
5 . 7
SOURCE: Go lds ch mi dt Chemical Co rp .: Suggested For mu la t i on s
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Sun
Care
Products 387
Daily UV Protection Lotion (Approximate SPF 18)
D er ma cr yl LT p r o v i d e s i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n , r u b - o f f
r e s i s t a n c e and w a te r r e s i s t a n c e as w e l l as i mp ro ve d r u b - i n
p r o p e r t i e s I
I n n r e d i e n t s :
Phase A :
Neo Hel iopan
B r i j 76
Cerasyn t
Q
C ety l A l coho
Emersol 132
T i o v e i l F IN
F i n s o l v TN
DC 334 F l u i d
DC 5 5 6 F l u i d
Abi l 88852
Phase 0:
AV
Deion ized Water
T r i et ha no l ami ne (99%)
Dermacry l LT
Neo Hel iopan Hydro
Carb opol 940 (2% Aq. S o ln .)
Phase C:
P ropy l ene G l yco l
D ry -F l o
PC
Phase D :
Germaben I I E
7.50
1 - 0 0
1
.so
1 .oo
1.50
1.70
5.00
3.00
1 . o o
0.50
40.30
4.00
1 .oo
4.00
20.00
3.00
3 .00
1
. o o
Procedure:
Phase B:
S lo w l y s i f t i n Dermacry l
LT,
h e a t t o 80C. When c o mp le te , s i f t
i n Neo Hel i opa n Hydro and Carbopol
940,
m ix u n t i l c om pl et e.
Phase A :
Combine and he a t t o 80C. Add Phase
A
t o Phase 0 a t 80C, mix
f o r 1 5-30 m i n u t e s. C oo l t o 40C. S l u r r y D r y - F lo PC i n P ro py le ne
G l y c o l , add t o A and B a t 40C and mix th o ro ug h ly . Add Phase
D
Cool t o room tem per atu re and package.
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chem ical Co. : Formula 7520-1490
Combine T r ie t ha no la mi ne 99% and De io n ized Water , he a t t o 60C.
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388
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
European O/W Sun Protection Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A M in er a l o i l
Isohexadecane
Oc ty l Methoxyc i nn i mate
Cyc lometh i cone
Ar lamo l E
Beheny l a l coho l
Tocophe r o1 A c e t a t e
B
A r l a tone 2121
G l y c e r o l
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
Water
C
Xanthan gum
D *Perfume
*q .
s .
t h e s e i g r e d i e n t s I
10.00
5 .00
5 . 0 0
2 . 8 0
1 .20
2.00
5 .50
5 .50
4.00
62.85
0 . 1 0
Procedure :
D i spe rse ( C ) an d (B ) a t 75C w i t h m od e ra te s t i r r i n g . Add he a t ed
( A ) , ( E ) , and
(F)
t o m i x t u r e w i t h v i g o ro u s s t i r r i n g . Homogen-
i z e mi x t u r e be tween 75C and 65C and co o l t o 40C w i t h modera te
s t i r r i n g . Homogenize a t 30C t o 40C w i t h a d d i t i o n o f ( D) .
M e l t A r la to ne 2121 and add t o rema inder o f (B ) a t 8OC.
O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA
Benzo~henone-3
M in er a l o i l
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 721
B r i j 72
Dimeth i cone
Water
Carbomer 940
w/w
7.00
3 .00
5.00
0 .50
2 .00
2 .00
0 .50
79.60
0 . 2 0
Sodium hydrox ide (10%
W /W
aqueous) 0.20
* P re se r va t i ve and F rag rance
* q. s. t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
P rocedure :
72C. and add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add
( C )
and inc rease speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as n ee ded . Add ( D )
and r e p l a c e wa te r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Disperse Carbomer
i n
w ate r and hea t (B) t o 70C. H ea t (A) t o
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Sun
Care Products 389
Lip Balm with Sunscreen-A
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Phase A :
P e t r o l a t u m
C e t y l A l c o h o l
Beeswax
Carnauba Wax
P a r a f f
O z o k e r i t e
C et y l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801)
S t e a r y l D im eth ico ne (Ab i 1 Wax 9800)
C a p ry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e go s o ft CT)
C e t e a r y l O ct an o at e ( T e g o s o ft L i q u i d )
M i n e r a l
O i l
Phase 8:
Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate
Benzophenone-3
Phase C :
C o l o r
Fragrance
Lip Balm with Sunscreen-B
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Phase
A :
P e t r o l a t u m
C e t y l A1 coho1
Beeswax
Carnauba Wax
P a r a f f i
O z o k e r i t e
Ce ty l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801)
S t ea ry l D imeth i c one (A b i l Wax 9800)
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT)
C e t e a r y l O ct a no a te (T e go so ft L i q u i d )
M i n e r a l O i l
Phase 8:
Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate
Benzophenone-3
Phase
C :
C o l o r
F rag rance
40 .7
4.0
6 . 0
6 . 4
1 6 . 4
6 . 0
1 . o
1 . o
5 . 0
3 . 0
5 . 0
4 . 0
1 . 5
Q.S.
Q.S.
w
44 .5
6 . 0
1 4 . 0
2 . 0
8 . 0
3 . 0
0 . 5
0 . 5
8 . 0
3 .0
5 . 0
4 . 0
1 . 5
Q.S.
Q.S.
Procedure:
1. Heat Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h er u n t i l m e lt ed . B eg in c o o l in g .
2 .
Add
Phase
B,
m ix u n t i l u n i fo r m .
3 . Add c o l o r and f r ag rance when ba t ch i s coo l ed t o a c reamy
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Ch e m ica l Corp.
:
Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
c o n s i s t e n c y . 4 . Mold .
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39 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Non-Chemical Sunscreen Lotion (approx. SPF 15)
T h i s l o t i o n i n c o r po r a t e s t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e as t h e sun scree n
agent . I t has a smooth f e e l upon a p p l i c a t i o n a nd r u b s i n e a s i l y
w i t h ou t w h i t en i ng . The Geahlene
750
adds th ickness and may
c o n t r i b u t e t o wa te r r e s i s ta n ce and p r od u ct s t a b i l i t y .
Inared ient /T rade Name:
A
Deion ized Water
Magnesium A luminum S i l i ca te / Veegu m U l t r a
Xanthan Gum/Kel t ro l
Methy lparaben
Te tr asod iu m EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220
0 M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogena ted Bu ty le ne /E th y lene /
S ty ren e Copolymer (and) Hydrogena ted E thy le ne /
Propy lene/Styrene Copolymer / /Geahlene 750
C12-15 A1 k y l Be nz oa te /F ins ol v
TN
T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e / M i c r o n i z e d T i 0 2 LA-20
Phenoxyethanol /Emeressence
1160
S te a r i c A c id /Emerso l 132
Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te SE/Lexemul T
DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol
P ropy lparaben
C Fragrance
Weiaht%
64.80
0 .80
0 .25
0.20
0.10
10.00
1 0 . 0 0
6 .00
0 . 7 0
2 . 5 0
2 .00
2 .50
0 . 1 0
0 .05
Procedure:
D i spe rse Veegum U1 t r a r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d de i on i zed w a te r .
M i x w e l l . Add K e l t r o l . M ix u n t i l u n i f o rm . Heat t o
8 0 C .
Add
r em ai n i n g p a r t
A
i
gr ed i e n t s, Homogeni ze
F i
n s o l v
TN
and Mic ron-
i z e d T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e u n t i l sm ooth. Add r e m a in i ng p a r t B
i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 80-85C. M ix u n t i l a l l t h e added s o l i d s
a r e c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g
w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M ix f o r
30
minu t es . u n t i l homogeneous.
Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t C . C o n ti n ue m i x i n g a nd c o o l i n g t o 30C.
SOURCE: Penreco : Sugges ted Fo rm u la t i o n
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Sun Care Products 391
O/W After Sun Milk
I n q r e d i e n t s :
%
A Arla mol S7 10. 00
Ar lamo l HD
8 . 0 0
B Ar la to ne 2 21 2 .00
A l p a n t h a 0 . 5 0
G l y c e r o l
2 .50
* P rese rva t ve
C
Water 76.78
Carbopol
EDT 0 . 0 7
D
*NaOH (10% s o l u t i o n )
E
Perfume 0.15
Procedure:
t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t o t h e h e a te d ( C) phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g mod-
e r a t e l y . Homogenise t h i s m i x t u r e u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n
fo rmed. Heat (A ) t o 80C and add t o
( B + C )
w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n -
s i v e l y . Homogenise t h e m i x tu re be tw een 75 and 6%. A l l ow t o coo l
down t o 50C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add ( D ) u n t i l pH o f 6 .5 t o 7 i s
reached. Add ( E ) a t 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g .
* q . s .
t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
D is pe r se C ar bo po l i n w a te r w h i l e s t i r r i n g . H ea t t o 80C. M i x
W/O
After
Sun Cream
I n r r r ed i e n t s :
A r l a c e l 5 8 2
A r l a t o n e T
Magnes ium s teara te
Beeswax
Candel i 1 a wax
Ar lamo l HD
S u nf lo w er s eed o i l
a -T ocophe ro l ace ta te
T eg i l oxan 100
Oxynex K l i q u i d
Aeros i l R972
At las G-2330
MgS04.7H20
A l pan tha
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
Water
Perfume D i na l ya 129 .051
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
2.50
0 .50
0 .50
1 . 5 0
0 .50
15.00
3 .0 0
1
. o o
0 .50
0 . 0 5
0.30
4 . 0 0
0.50
0 . 5 0
69 45
0 .20
Procedure:
Mix (A and 6 ) . Mix (C+D). Heat (A+B) and (C+D) separately
t o 75C. Add ( C +D ) t o ( A + B ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogen-
i s e f o r 1 m in ut e. A l lo w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add ( E )
w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogenise a g a i n f o r 1 m i n u t e . P ack ag e.
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s
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392 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Phase A:
G1 y c e r i ne
Glucamate SSE-20
O/W Cream (SPF 5)
[UVA/UVB Ratio 0.9]
?$y&
5 . 0 0
1.50
G l u c a t e SS 1 . 5 0
G l yc e r y l Monos tea ra te 5 .00
M y r i t o l 3 1 8 5 .00
S p e c t r a v e i l TG (60% s o l i d s d i s p e r s i o n ) 1 0 . 0 0
Phase 0:
Veegum Regular 1 . 5 0
Kel zan 0.3 0
Me thy l Paraben 0.15
Demi n e r a l
i
ed wate r 69 .60
Phase
C:
Germal l I 1 0.25
Per fume 0.20
Manu fac tu re :
*
H ea t bo th phases t o 65-70C m i x i n g w i t h h i g h shea r m i x e r .
*
Add phase A t o phase B w i t h m i x i n g.
* S t i r
on t h e h i g h sh ea r m ix er a l l o w i n g p r o d u c t t o c o o l .
* When be lo w 60C add t h e Ge rm al l
11.
When be lo w 40C add t h e
per fume
*
A t 35C s t o p s t i r r i n g a nd a l l o w t o c o o l .
I n - V i t r o SPF Va lue : 4 -6 In -V iv o SPF Va lue :
5 .9
F or m u la t i on Number 22
W/O Sun Protection Cream (SPF 15+)
[UVA/UVB Ratio 0.75]
Phase A :
DC200/100cs
%Jyfy
2 .00
El fa co s C26 5.00
El fa co s E200 2.00
El fa co s ST9 4.00
Cocoa B u t t e r 3 . 00
Pro py l Paraben 0.08
Sp ec tr av ei 1 SO/MOTG (40% s o l d s d i sp e r s i on ) 25 .00
Phase 0:
P ropy l ene G l yco l 5 .00
Methy l Paraben 0 . 1 0
Demi n e r a l
i
ed water 53.82
Manufac tu re :
*
I n t o a s u i t a b l e v es se l w eigh o u t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s
o f
phase A
( ex ce pt t h e E l f a c o s C26). B r i n g t h e t em pe ra tu re o f t h e o i l s
s l o w l y t o 75C w i t h o c c a s i o n a l s t i r r i n g . The E l f a c o s C26
c o n s t i t u t e n t i s warmed t o 85C and ad de d s e p a r a t e l y .
* P re -m i x t h e P ropyl ene G l y co l and Me thy l P araben . Add t o t h e
w at er , s t i r r i n g w e l l a nd h ea t t o 7%.
* When bo t h phases a r e co mp le te l y d i s so lv ed and a t 75-80C, add
phase 6 t o phase A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a h i g h shear m i x e r .
M i x f o r f i v e m i n u t e s and t h e n commence c o o l i n g .
* Cool t o app rox i ma te l y 25C w i t h s l ow speed m i x i ng .
*
M ix b r i e f l y a t h i g h speed u n t i l smooth.
I n - V i t r o SPF Value : 17-21 In -V iv o SPF Value : 20.5
Fo rm ul at io n Number 24
SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d . : SPECTRAVEIL Custom
UV
P r o t e c t i o n
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Sun
Care Products
393
O/W Hydroalcoholic Sunscreen
I n n r e d i e n t s : ?&v&
Ce ty l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 2 . 0
S t e a r y l A l co h o l 2 . 0
M i n e r a l O i l 3 . 5
C yc l ome th i cone (A b i l
6
8839) 5 . 0
Ste aro xy D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 2434) 1 . 5
I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t
S ) 5 . 0
Oc ty l Methoxycinnamate 4 . 0
Benzophenone-3 2.0
Phase B :
P ropy l ene G1 y c o l 3 . 0
Carbomer 934 (1.5% - NaOH Ne u t r a l i z ed ) 0 . 3
Water 45.7
P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S .
Phase
C :
SD Al co ho l 40A 20. 0
Fragrance Q . S .
Procedure:
1 . Combine t h e i ng re d i en t s o f Phase
A .
Heat t o 80C.
2 . Combine th e i n g r ed ie n t s o f Phase B. Hea t t o 80C.
3. Mix Phases
A &
8 . Cool t o 60C w h i l e m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y
4. Cool t o 45C w i t h sweep mix .
5 .
Add Phase C . Rehomogenize. Cool t o 25C w i t h sweep m ix .
I n n r e d i e n t s : %w/w
Phase
A :
C e t y l D i meth i cone Copol yo1 (and) Po l yg l yc er y l -4
I s os te a r a t e (and) H exy l Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 4 .0
C e ty l D i me th icone (A b i
1
Wax 9801)
2 . 0
Po ly e th yl en e Wax 1 . o
Benzophenone-3 2 . 0
O c t y l S al i c y 1a t e 3 . 0
Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate 2 . 0
Sesame
O i l
1 . o
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o ft P) 3 . 0
C yc l ome th i cone (A b i l
B
8839)
4 . 0
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g os o ft
O S )
3 . 0
O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o ft OP) 2 . 5
Phase B :
Water 71 . 4
Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5
Po lyqua te rn ium-10 0 .3
Germaben I 1 0 . 3
Procedure:
1 .
Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. C oo l t o 5 0C.
2. Heat Phase
B
t o 50C. Add
B
t o
A
s l o w l y w i t h a l ow en er gy
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a p pe ar an ce a t a l l t i m e s .
3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep mix e r . Add f r ag ra nc e. 4 . Homogenize
SOURCE: Gold sch mid t Chemical Co rp. : F o rm ul at io n s
BAM-1-97
Phase
A :
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a nd ) C e te th - 20 ( T e g i n a c i d H) 4 . 0
appea rance a t a l l t i m es . H omogen ize .
W/O Sunscreen
SPF
17)
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394 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A O c ty l d im e th yl PABA
M in er al o i l
S t e a r y l a l c o h ol
B r i j 721
B r i j 72
D i meth i cone
Water
B Carbomer 940
C
Sodium hydrox ide (10% W /W aqueous)
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e a nd f r a g r a n c e
q . s .
t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s
5.00
5.00
0.50
2 .00
2.00
0 .50
84.60
0.20
0 .20
Procedure:
D ispe rse Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t (B ) t o 70C. Heat
( A ) t o
72C. an d add (B) t o ( A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l ow l y ad d
(C) and i nc r eas e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. A dd (D) and
r e p l a c e w at er l o s t b y ev a p o r a t i o n .
W/O Sunscreen Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a c e l 1 8 6
Sorbo
B Ceresin wax
Beeswax
M in er al o i l
Sunscreen agent
C
Water
D
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q .s . t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
3 .00
27.00
1 . o o
1
. o o
11
. o o
6.00
51 . O O
Procedure :
Add Sorbo t o A r l a c e l 186 s l o w l y w i t h c on t i nu o us a g i t a t i o n .
Add (B ) t o ( A ) and hea t t o 70C. Add ( C ) and m i x t o a u n i f o r m
d i s pe rs i on . H ea t (D) t o 72C. and add t o ( A , B , C ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
Cool and m i l l t o i mp ro ve smoothness and s h e l f l i f e .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r fa c t an t s : S uggested F o rmu l a t i ons
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Sun
Care Products
395
1 .
2.
3.
4 .
5 .
6 .
7
8 .
9 .
10.
O/W Sunscreen Lot ion
A - C P o l ye thy l ene 61 7
A - C
Copolymer 540
E s c a l o l
507
Dow 556 F l u i d
P ropy l ene G l yco l
D i
p e l a r g o n a t e
Hydroxy01
Ethoxyo l 24
A r l a c e l 6 0
Tween 60
Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
Wt.%
1 . o
1 o
5 . 0
2 .0
1 0 . 5
2 .0
1 o
1 . 3
1 . 8
0 . 1
1 1 . S o r b i t o l
5 . 0
12.Carbopol 941 0 . 5
13.Germal l 115 0 . 4
14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 .2
15.
T r i
et ha no l ami ne
0 7 5
16.Water 68.45
Procedure:
D is per se Carbopol i n wa t e r . Weigh 1 -10 and hea t t o 80-9OC
w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m ai n in g i n g r e d i e n t s t o C ar bo p ol /w a te r
d i s pe rs i on , excep t t r i e t ha no l am i n e , and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e
wax phase t o t h e aqueous phase and shear i n homomixer. Con t inu e
s h e a r in g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g
w e l l . Coo l t o 30C, add per fume, dea era te and package .
Re f: 51 89-2-6
1 .
2 .
3 .
4 .
5
6 .
7 .
8 .
9 .
O/W Sunscreen Lotion
A -C Copolymer 580
D i s t i l l e d I s op ro p y l L an ol a te
E s c a l o l 507
Dow 556 F l u i d
P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i p e l a r g o n a t e
Ethoxyo l 24
A r l a c e l 6 0
Tween 60
Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
Wt.36
2 . 0
3 . 0
5 . 0
2 . 0
1 0 . 0
1 o
1
o
2 .0
0 . 1
1 0. S o r b i t o 1
(70%)
5 .0
11
.C arb i t o 1 941 0 . 5
12 .T r i e t h ano l a m i ne 0 . 7 5
13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2
14.Water 67.45
Procedure:
s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m ai n in g i n g r e d i e n t s t o C a rb o po l/ wa te r
d i s pe rs i o n , excep t t r i e t ha no l am i ne , and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e
wate r phase t o t h e aqueous phase and shear i n homomixer. Con t in ue
s h e a r in g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g
w e l l . Coo l t o 30C, add per fume, de- aer a te and package .
R ef : 51 89-2-9
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g na l
Inc.
S uggested F o rm u l a t i on s
D is per se Carbopo l i n wa t e r . Weigh 1 -9 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h
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396 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Sunscreen Lotion
I n Q r e d i e n t s :
A M in er al o i l
A r l a c e l 6 0
Tween 60
B enzy l sa l i y1a t e
B en zy l c i nnamate
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
*q . s . t h e s e i g r e d i e n t s .
P rocedure :
Heat (A) t o 60C. Heat ( B )
b u t g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o
B Water
%@
24.50
1 .50
8 . 5 0
2 .00
2 .00
61.50
t o 62C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h th o ro u gh
25C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .
O/W Sunscreen Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A M in e r a l o i l
Ce ty l a1 coho1
A r l a c e l 6 0
Tween 60
Amyl para-d imethy laminobenzoate
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
*q . s . t h e s e i g r e di e n t s .
Heat (A) t o 55C. and (B) t o 60C.
B Water
Procedure:
a t i o n .
S t i r
u n t i l c o o l .
%&y
18.80
5 . 0 0
2.50
7 . 5 0
1 . 2 0
65 .00
Add ( B) t o ( A) w i t h a g i t -
O/W Em ol l ient Sun screen L ot ion
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A O c ty l d im et hy l PABA
Ar lamo l E
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
D imeth i cone
A r l
as ol ve 200
B r i j 72
Carbomer 934
B Water
C Sodium hydrox ide (10%
W /W
aqueous)
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e a nd f r a g r a n c e
*q .
s .
t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
D isper se Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t
72C. and add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r
and increase speed of t h e a g i t a t i o n as
r e p l a c e w at er l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n .
?& y
5 . 0 0
7 . 0 0
2.50
1 . o o
3.10
3 . 9 0
77.10
0.20
0 . 2 0
( 8 ) t o 70C. H e at ( A) t o
a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add (C)
needed. Add
( D )
and
SO UR CE : I C 1 S u r f ac ta n t s : S uggested F o rmu l a t i ons
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Sun Care
Products
397
Phase A :
A r l a c e l 1 6 5
S t e a r y l A l c o h o l
Span 60
Tween 60
P e t r o l a t u m
DC200/350
Sweet Almond
O i
1
M i n e r a l
O i l
O/W Sunscreen Lotion
SPF
12)
5.00
0 . 5 0
0 . 5 0
0 . 9 0
3 . 0 0
1 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
8 . 0 0
Eveni ng Pr im ros e
O i
1 0.50
Phase B :
Dei o n i zed wate r
S o r b i c A c i d
G1 y c e r i ne
T i o v e i l
AQ
K e l t r o l
Phase C :
Deion i sed wate r
Bronopol
56 .76
0 . 2 0
5 . 0 0
1 2 . 5 0
0 . 1 0
1 . o o
0.04
Manufac tu re :
* Heat t h e d e i o n i s e d w a t er , s o r b i c a c i d a nd g l y c e r i n e t o 75C,
* S p r i n k l e i n t h e K e l t r o l and homogenise u n t i l t h i s i s f u l l y
s t i r r i n g o c c a s i o n a l l y u n t i l a l l t h e s o r b i c a c i d has d i s s o l v e d .
d i s pe rs ed . ( o r : p ad dl e s t i r f o r 1 h ou r t o h yd r at e t h e
Kel t r o l ) . M a i n t a i n t e m e r a t u r e a t 75C.
* Add t h e - T i o v e i l AQ and' hom ogenise b r i e f l y .
* Heat phase
A
t o 75C.
* Add
A
t o B a nd homogenise f o r a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e .
*
Add phase C a t 40C. C on t i nu e c o o l i n g w i t h s t i r r
I n -V i t r o S P F V a l ue :
1 2 - 1 5
SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d .
:
TIOVEIL Physica
t o c o o l .
Paddle s t i r
ng t o 25C.
Sunscreen
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398
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W
Sunscreen Lotion (SPF
15)
Phase 4:
DC 593 f l u i d 7 .00
M in e ra l o i l 6 .0 0
Crodamol ML 2 .0 0
Ce ty l a1 coho1
2 . 0 0
GMS/SE 1 .20
Eumulg in 82 0 . 40
S t e a r i c a c i d 1 - 0 0
P ropy l pa raben 0 .05
Phase B :
Dei on i sed wat e r 58 .45
G1 y c e r
i
e
1 . o o
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 1 - 0 0
A l o e v e r a g e l 1 O :l 0 . 5 0
Me thy l pa raben 0 .15
T i o v e i 1
AQ
18.75
Perfume 0.20
Germal l 115 0 . 30
Manufac tu re :
*
Heat phases A and B se pa ra te l y t o 70-75C.
* Add phase A t o phase and homogenize f o r a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e .
* C ool down t o 50C w i t h s l o w s t i r r i n g , t h e n a dd p e rf um e
*
C o n ti n ue c o o l i n g w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add G er ma ll a t 35C. S t op
s t i r r i n g a t 30C.
I n - V i t r o SPF Value : 17-21 In -V iv o S P F V a l ue : 17 .6
V i s c o s i t y : 60000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e ld LVT, Sp in d l e E, 3 rpm)
Formulat ion Number 9
O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF
10)
Phase A : %w/w
I s o p r op y l m y r i s t a t e 4 .0 0
M in er a l o i l 6 . 5 0
G rap e se ed o i l 2 . 50
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 1 . o o
P e t r o l a t u m 2 . 0 0
T i o v e i l MOTG 5. 00
Phase B :
Deion i sed wat e r 62 .90
G r i
11o t e n LSE87K 0 .1 0
G r i l l o t e n PSE141G 6 . 0 0
G1 y c e r i ne 4 .0 0
A1 1a n t o i n 0 . 2 0
d-Panthenol
0 .8 0
Phase C :
T i o v e i l AQ 5 . 0 0
Phase D:
Manufac tu re :
*
Heat
A
and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 8 0 C . * Add
A
t o 8, s t i r r i n g i n t e n -
*
A l lo w t o c o ol f o r 25C w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n . Add
D .
Fo rm ul at io n Number 18
SOURCE:
T i o x id e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d , :
T I O V E I L
Phys ica l Sunscreens
P r e s e r v a t i e q s
s i v e l y . A d d C w i t h i n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g .
*
Homogenize
I n - V i t r o SPF V a l ue : 12-15 V i sc os i t y : 144 mPas (B ro ok f i e l d )
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Sun
Care Products 399
O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15)
Phase A :
O c t y l P a l m i t a t e
Crodamol
C A P
0c200/100cs
Oxynex 2004
White Beeswax
Phase
B :
A r l a tone 2121
K e l t r o l
RD
Veeaum U l t r a
%w/w
5 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
3 . 0 0
0 . 0 5
3 . 5 0
5 . 5 0
0 . 2 0
0 . 8 0
Sod ium Lac ta te
( 7 0 %
s o l n . ) 0 .3 0
Demi n e r a l i ed wate r 61 - 6 5
T i o v e i l AQ 15.00
P r e s e r v a t i es
q s
Manufac tu re :
*
M i x w a t e r a nd s od iu m l a c t a t e a nd h e a t t o 80C
*
M e l t A r l a t o n e
2121
and add t h i s t o t h e h o t w a te r p hase w i t h
* D i s p e r s e K e l t r o l an d Veegum i n t h e h o t w a t er p ha se
* A d d T i o v e i l AO w i t h v i g o ro u s s t i r r i n g
* Heat phase A t o 75-80C, u n t i l f u l l y m e l t e d a nd homogeneous.
* Heat phase A
t o
phase B w i t h h i g h - s h e a r m i x i n g .
* Cool w i t h m o d er at e s t i r r i n g t o 3OC.Homogenize b r i e f l y when c o l d
F orm ul a t i on Number
19
v i g o r o us s t i r r i n g
I n - V i t r o SPF Value : 15-19 V i s c o s i t y : 49680 mPas
W/O
Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 20)
Phase A :
%V&
A b i l EM90 2.00
M in er al o i l 5 . 0 0
Ar lamo l HD 5 . 0 0
C a p r y l i c - ca p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 5 . 0 0
O c t y l P a l m i t a t e 8 . 00
Ar lamol 53 5 . 0 0
Naturechem
GMHS
0 . 8 0
Lunacera
M
1 . 2 0
Phase
B :
Demi n e r a l i ed w a te r 47 .50
Sodi um Ch lo r i d e 0 . 50
P r e s e r v a t i v e
q s
Phase C :
T i o v e i l MOTG 20. 00
Manufac tu re :
* Heat phases
A
and B se pa ra te l y t o 75C
*
Heat phase
C
t o >60C
*
S l ow l y add
B
t o A
w i t h
i n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g
*
Add
C
w i t h i n t e n -
s i v e s t i r r i n g
*
C oo l t o 25-30'2, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e same s t i r r e r
speed
*
Homogenize
Formulat ion Number
2 0
SOURCE: T io x id e S p e c i a l t i e s L td . : T IOVEIL Ph ys ica l Sunscreens
I n - V i t r o SPF V a l ue : 20-24 V i sc o s i t y : 2000 mPas (B ro ok f i e l d )
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400 Cosm etic and Toiletry Form ulations
O/W Vi taminized B road Spectrum Sunscreen Lo t ion
(Indicative SPF 8)*
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A) Parso l
MCX
Parso l 1789
Parso l 5000
G l y c e r y l Monomyri s t a t e
Ganex V-220
C e t y l A lc o h ol E x t r a
Dermol 185
Amphisol K
Edeta
BD
B u t y l a t e d H y d r o x y t o l u e n e
Phenoni p
Carbopol 981
1%
s o l ' n
P ropy l ene G l yco l
C)
KOH
10%
sol
n
D ) Deion ized Water
P a r s o l HS
KOH
10% s o l ' n
E )
V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e
F ) Panthenol
G) P a r f e x 49915
B ) Deion ized Water
% w / w
2.00
1 . o o
0 . 6 0
4.00
2 . 0 0
1 . 0 0
1 0 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
0 . 1 0
0 . 0 5
0 . 6 0
34.93
1 0 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
0 . 6 4
20.00
0 . 6 0
1 . 0 8
2 . 0 0
2.00
0 . 4 0 * *
Procedure :
Heat p a r t A) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add
p a r t s
B )
an d C) p r e - h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t D)
p r e -h e a te d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g ( b e s u r e t h a t t h e P a r s o l HS
h a s b e e n c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r ac es rema i n , add a sma l l
q u a n t i t y o f n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) .
C oo l t o 40C, a dd p a r t s
E ) ,
F ) and G) . Compensate f o r wa te r
l o s s and c o n t i nu e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o amb ient t em pe ra tu re .
Remark:
* S P F de te rm i na t i on :
I R I
Ref . 582627. Te st method based on
FDA/OTC condi t ions
w i t h
s i x s u b j e c t s .
The f i n a l pH v a l u e s h o u l d be ar ou n d 7 . 0 t o p re ve n t r e c r y -
s t a l l i z a t i o n o f P ar so l HS
* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d p er fu me f o r s un s cr ee n s.
SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure: Formula t ion 3 8 COS
0 8 5
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Sun Care Products 401
O/W
Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion
(Indicat ive SPF 25+)*
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A ) Parso l MCX
Parso l 1789
Parso l 5000
G l y c e r y l Monomyri s t a t e
Ganex V-220
C e t y l A l c o h ol E x t r a
Dermol 185
Amphisol K
Edeta BD
B u t y l a t e d H y d r o x y t o l u e n e
Phenoni p
Carbopol 981 1% s o l ' n
P r o p y l e n e
G1
y c o l
B ) Deion ized Water
C)
KOH
10% s o l ' n
D )
Deion ized Water
P a r s o l HS
KOH
1 0 % so l
I n
E )
V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e
F) Panthenol
G) P e r fe x 49915
Procedure :
H ea t D a r t
A )
t o
8 5 C
w h i le s t i r r i n a
When homoneneous,
5 . 5 0
2 . 5 0
2 . 0 0
4 .00
2 . 0 0
1 . o o
10.00
2 .00
0 . 1 0
0 . 0 5
0 . 6 0
24.61
10 .00
5 . 0 0
0.64
20 .00
2 . 0 0
3 . 6 0
2 . 0 0
2.00
0.40**
a d d p a r t s
B)
and
C )
p r e- h ea te d t o 756, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t
D )
p r e - h e at e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g ( b e su r e t h a t t h e P a r s o l
HS h a s b e e n c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r ac es rema i n , add a
s ma l l q u a n t i t y
o f
t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n
i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add P a r t s
E ) ,
F ) , a n d G). Compensate
f o r w a te r l o s s and c o n t in u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o a mb ient
t e m p e r a t u r e .
Remark
:
* S P F de te rm i na t i on : I R I Re f. 582627. Te st method based on
FDA/OTC c o n d i t i o n s w i t h f i v e s u b j e c t s .
* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d p er fu me f o r s un s cr ee n s.
The f i n a l pH v a l u e s h o u ld b e a ro un d 7 . 0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y s -
t a l l i z a t i o n o f P a r s o l H S .
SOURCE: Givaudan -R ou re : Form ul a 38 COS 0 8 7
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4 2 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion
(Indicative SPF 15)*
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A )
P a r s o l
MCX
Parso l 1789
P a r s o l 5000
G l y c e r y l M o n o m y r i s t a t e
Ganex V-220
C e t y l A l c o h o l E x t r a
Dermol 185
Amphisol K
Edeta BD
B u t y l a t e d H y d r o x y t o l u e n e
Phen oni p
Dei o n i zed Water
Carbopol 981 1%
s o l
' n
Pro pyl ene G1 y c o l
KOH 10 s o l ' n
Dei o n i zed Water
P a r s o l HS
KOH 10%
sol'n
V i t a m i n
E
A c e t a t e
Pantheno l
Parfex 49915
3.30
1
. 5 0
1 . 2 0
4 . 0 0
2.00
1 . o o
10.00
2 .00
0 . 1 0
0 . 0 5
0 . 6 0
30.86
1 0 .0 0
5 . 0 0
0 . 6 4
20 .00
1 . 2 0
2.15
2 . 0 0
2 .00
0.40**
Procedure :
H e a t p a r t A ) t o
85C
w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add
p a r t s B) and C p r e -h e a te d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . A dd p a r t D)
p r e -h e a te d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g ( be s u r e t h a t t h e P a r s o l HS
has been comp l e te l y d i s so l ved ,
i f
t r ac es remai n , add a sma l l
q u a n t i t y o f t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) .
C oo l t o 40C, add p a r t s E ) ,
F )
and G ). Compensate
for
water
loss
and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o a mb ien t t em p er at ur e .
Remark:
*SPF determinat ion: I R I Re f. 582627. Te st method based on
FDA/OTC c o n d i t i o n s w i t h s i x s u b j e c t s .
T h e f i n a l
pH
v a l u e s h o u l d be ar o un d 7. 0 t o p r e v e n t
r e c r y s t a l l i z a t i o n o f P ar so l HS.
* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d p er fu me f o r s un s cr ee n s.
SOURCE: Givau dan- Rour e: F o r m u l a t i o n
38
COS
086
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Sun Care Products 4 3
Solar Tanning Cream
Water Phase:
Water
Carbomer 934
O i l Phase:
Protox T-25
Rosswax 573
GMS SE
Coconut O i l #76
Jo j oba Oi 1
Rosswax 1824
Esca lo l 507
Fragrance
Germaben
I 1
T r i et ha no l ami ne
P a r t 0v Weish t
S o f t
427.9
3 .0
1 . o
4 .0
4 .0
16.0
4 .0
12 .0
25.0
q . S .
5 . 0
4 . 4
Procedure:
D i s p e rs e t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r . I n a se co nd v es s e l
h e a t t h e O i l Phase i n c l u d i n g t h e E s c a l o l 5 07 u n t i l c o m p l e t el y
c le a r . When b o th phases a re read y add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e
W ater P hase, add t h e p r es e r va t i v e , f r ag ran ce and add t h e
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e u nd er h i g h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m i xe d you
may package.
Solar Tanning Cream
Water Phase:
Water
Carbomer 934
O i l
Phase:
Protox T-25
Rosswax 573
GMS SE
Coconut O i l #76
Jo j oba
O i l
Rosswax 1824
Esca lo l 507
Fragrance
Germaben
I 1
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
P a r t s b y W e ia h t
H a rd
410.0
3.0
1
. o
4.0
4 . 0
16 .0
4 .0
12 .0
25.0
q . s .
4.8
4 . 4
Procedure:
D i s p e r se t h e Carbomer 9 34 i n t h e w a t e r . I n a sec on d v es s e l
h ea t t h e O i l Phase i n c l u d i n g t h e E s c a l o l 507 u n t i l c o m p l e te l y
c l e a r . When bo t h phases a r e ready add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e
W ate r Phase, add t h e p res e r va t i v e , F rag rance and add t h e
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e u n de r h i g h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m i x ed y ou may
package.
SOURCE:
F rank
0. Ross C o , , Inc . :
S ugges ted F o rmu l a t i ons
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4 4 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Solar Tanning Cream
High Protect ion
P a r t ( A ) :
Water
Carbomer 934
P a r t ( B ) :
P r o t o x T 25
Rosswax 573
Rosswax 1824
Ross Jojoba
O i
1
Coconut
O i l
#76
Esca lo l 507
Esca lo l 567
P a r t ( C ) :
Germaben
I 1
P a r t
0):
Fragrance
P a r t
( E ) :
T r i et ha no l ami ne
GMS-SE
?i
7 9 . 9
0 . 6
0 . 2
0 . 8
2 . 0
0 . 8
0 . 8
3 . 0
7 .0
3 . 0
1 . o
4 , s .
0 . 9
Procedure:
omer 934 under a g i t a t i o n . H ea t P a r t
( B )
i n a s team j a c k e t e d
k e t t l e u nt 1 c l e a r u nd er a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m ix ed add P a r t
( 8 )
t o Par ( A ) u nd er a g i t a t i o n . T hen add P a r t
( C )
and mix
t h o r o u g h l y N e xt a dd P a r t ( D ) and f i n a l l y add P a r t (E ) w i t h
a g i t a t i o n . C oo l t o 1 20F an d p ac ka ge .
H eat t h e wa t e r i n a s te am j a c k e t e d k e t t l e an d a dd t h e Ca rb -
Tanning Jelly
P e tr o l a tu m USP
M i n e r a l
O i l
#7
Henkel C u t i na-LM
Ross Jo j oba
O i 1
E sca l o l 507
Propy l Paraben
Fragrance
3
49.0
20.0
23 .9
2 .0
5.0
0 . 1
q . s .
Procedure :
Load i n g r e d i e n t s i n s team j a c k e te d k e t t l e and m e l t t o a
l i q u i d s t a t e un de r a g i t a t i o n . When t h o r o u g h l y m ixed, c oo l t o
130F, f r ag ra nc e and package.
SOURCE:
Frank
8 .
R o s s
Co.,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Sun Care Products 405
Solar Tanning Cream
Super Protection
P a r t ( A ) :
Water
Carbomer 934
P a r t
(B)
:
P ro tox T 25
Rosswax 573
Rosswax 1824
Ross Jo j oba
O i
1
Coconut O i l #76
Esca lo l 507
Esca lo l 567
Esca lo l 557
P a r t
(C):
Germaben
I 1
P a r t
( D ) :
Fragrance
P a r t
(E):
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
GMS-SE
6 9 . 1
0 . 6
0 . 2
0 . 8
2 . 0
1 . o
0 . 8
3 . 2
8 . 0
4 . 5
7 . 5
1
.o
q . s .
0.9
Procedure:
Carbomer 934 under a g i t a t i o n . H ea t P a r t ( B ) i n a steam j a c k e t e d
k e t t l e u n t i l c l e a r u nd er a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed add P ar t
( B )
t o P a r t ( A) u nd er a g i t a t i o n . T hen add P a r t
( C )
and mix
t h o r o u g h l y . N e xt a dd P a r t
(D)
and f i n a l l y add Pa r t ( E) w i t h
a g i t a t i o n . Co ol t o 120F and pa ck ag e.
H ea t t h e waxes i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e
Jojoba After Sun Lotion
P a r t A :
M i n e r a l
O i l
60/70
Modul an
Rosswax 63-0412
Pro py l ene
G1
y c o l
Ross Jojoba O i 1
P a r t
8 :
Water
A l o e V era L i q u i d
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
Fragrance
Germaben I 1
6
8 . 5
5 . 0
7 . 6
2 . 3
1 . 7
6 9 . 7
3.3
1 . 2
q . s .
1 . o
Procedure :
a g i t a t i o n . When t e m pe r at u re i s r ea ch ed , m ix P a r t ( A ) t o P ar t ( B )
and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r s a t b e lo w 1 20F .
SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
M e l t P a r t ( A ) and Par t ( B ) i n s e p a ra t e v e s s e l s t o 170F u nd er
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4 6 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Solar Tanning Lotion-A
P a r t
I :
Water
Carbomer 934
P a r t
11:
Rosswax 573
GMS SE
Jo j oba
O i l
Esca lo l 507
P a r t 1 1 1 :
Fragrance
P a r t I V :
Gerrnaben
I 1
P a r t V:
T r i et ha no l ami ne
Solar Tanning Lotion-B
P a r t I :
Water
Carborner 934
P a r t 1 1 :
Rosswax 573
GMS SE
Jo j oba
O i l
Esca lo l 507
P a r t
1 1 1 :
Fragrance
P a r t I V :
Germaben I 1
P a r t V :
T r i et ha no l ami ne
P a r ts bv Wei qh t
568 .0
2 . 0
4.0
4 . 0
4 . 0
13 .0
4 . s .
6 . 0
4 .0
Pa r t s by Wei qh t
568 .0
2 . 0
4 . 0
4 . 0
4 . 0
1 9 . 0
q . s .
6 . 0
4 .0
Procedure:
s ep a ra te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t P a r t I 1 u n t i l c l e a r .
A s
soon
a s e v e r y t h i n g
i s
m e l t e d ad d P a r t
I 1
t o P ar t
I
w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
Then add Par t I 1 1 a n d P a r t I V w i t h i n cr e as e d a g i t a t i o n ; t h e n add
T r i h a n o l ami ne. Cool t o 130F and package.
SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : SUQQeSted Fo rm ula t io ns
H ea t t h e w a te r w i t h a g i t a t i o n a nd add t h e Carborner 9 34 . I n a
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Sun Care Products 4 7
P a r t
I
Water
Carbomer 934
P a r t 1 1 :
Rosswax 573
GMS S E
Jo j oba
O i l
Esca lo l 507
P a r t 1 1 1 :
Fragrance
P a r t
I V :
Germaben I 1
P a r t V :
T r i
et ha no l ami ne
P a r t I :
Water
Carbomer 934
P a r t 1 1 :
Rosswax 573
GMS SE
Jo j oba O i l
Esca lo l 507
P a r t 1 1 1 :
Fragrance
P a r t I V :
Germaben I 1
P a r t
V :
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
Solar Tanning Lotion-C
P a r t s by Wei ah t
568 .0
2 .0
4 . 0
4 .0
4 . 0
25 .0
q . s .
6.0
4.0
Solar Tanning Lotion-D
568.0
2.0
4.0
4 .0
4 . 0
32 .0
q . s .
6 .0
4 . 0
Procedure :
s ep a ra te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t P a r t I 1 u n t i l c l e a r . A s
soon as e v e r y t h i n g i s m e lt e d add P a r t
I 1
t o P a r t
I
w i t h a g i t -
a t i o n . Then add P a r t I 1 1 and P a r t IV w i t h i nc re a se d a g i t a t i o n ;
t h e n add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . C oo l t o
130F
and package.
SOURCE: Frank 8 . R o s s C o . , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat the w a t er w i t h a g i t a t i o n a nd ad d t h e Carbomer 9 34 . I n a
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4 8
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Solar Tanning Lotion
High Protection
Water
Carbomer 934
Rosswax 573
Gms S E
Jo j oba O i l
Esca lo l 507
Pa r t s by Wei qh t
517.0
2 . 0
3 . 6
3 . 6
42 .0
1 8 . 0
Germaben I 1 6 . 0
F ragrance
q . s .
T r i eth ano l ami ne 3 . 6
Procedure:
s ep a ra te steam ja c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t t h e O i l Phase t i l l c l e a r
w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Now add t h e
O i l
Phase t o t h e Water Phase wi t h
a g i t a t i o n , add t h e Germaben
1 1 ,
f r a g r a nc e and f i n a l l y a dd t h e
T r i e t ha n o l a m in e w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n . N ex t c oo l t o 130F and
package .
H ea t t h e wa te r w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e Carbomer 934. I n a
Solar Tanning Lotion
Supe r P rotection
Water
Carbomer 934
Rosswax 2540
W h i t e Jo j oba O i 1
E s c a l o l 507
Esca lo l 567
Esca lo l 557
Germaben I 1
Fragrance
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
GMS-SE
P ar t s by W e i gh t
381 .5
1 . 5
3 . 0
3 . 0
3 . 0
40 .0
22 .5
3 7 . 5
5 . 0
q . s
3 . 6
Procedure :
Heat t h e w at er i n a steam j a c k e te d k e t t l e w i t h a g i t a t i o n and
add t h e Carbomer 9 34 . I n a s e p a r a t e s te am j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t
t h e O i l Phase u n t i l c l e a r w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Now add t h e O i l Phase
t o t h e W ate r P hase w i t h a g i t a t i o n , t h e n t h e Germaben 1 1 , t h e n
t h e F ra gr an ce and f i n a l l y add t h e T r i e t h a no l am i ne w i t h h i g h a g i t -
a t i o n . N e xt c o o l t o 130F and pa c ka g e.
SOURCE:
Frank 8 , R o s s C o . , I n c .
:
Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
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Sun Care Products 409
Cocoanut O i l #76
Dow
Corn ing #344
I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e
M i n e r a l
O i l
# 7
Ac etu l an
Glucam P-20
Jo j oba
O i l
E s c a l o l
5 0 7
Fragrance
Cocoanut
O i l
#76
Dow Corn ing #344
I s o p r o py l M y r i s t a t e
M i n e r a l
O i l
#7
A ce tu l an
Glucam P-20
Jo j oba O i l
Esca lo l 507
Fragrance
Cocoanut O i l #76
D o w Corning #344
I s o p r o py l M y r i s t a t e
M i n e r a l O i l #7
Ac et u l an
Glucam P-20
Jo j oba O i l
Esca lo l 507
Fragrance
Cocoanut O i l #76
D ow Corning #344
I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e
M i n e r a l O i l #7
A ce tu l an
Glucam P-20
Jo j oba O i l
Esca lo l 507
Fragrance
Solar Tanning Oil-A
Solar Tanning Oil-B
Solar Tanning Oil-C
Solar Tanning Oil-D
15.0
16 .0
1 3 . 0
42 .0
8 . 0
2 .0
2 .0
2 . 0
Q . S .
14 .0
16 .0
13.0
42.0
8 . 0
2 .0
2 . 0
3.0
9 . s .
13.0
16 .0
13 .0
42.0
8 . 0
2 .0
2 . 0
4 . 0
q . s
12.0
16.0
13.0
42.0
8 . 0
2 .0
2 . 0
5 . 0
Q . S .
Procedure:
r u n t h r u a f i l t e r and package.
SOURCE:
Frank
B . R o s s C o . ,
I n c . : S ug oe ste d F o r m u l a t i o n s
M ix a l l o f t h e above i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s se l ,
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410 Cosmetic and
Toiletry
Formulations
Solar Tanning Stick
White Color
Rosswax
26-1 152
Rosswax
1641
Rosswax
1824
M i n e r a l
O i l 7
Dow S i l i c o n e
344
I s o p r op y l M yr i s t a t e
Coconut
O i l 76
A ce tu l an
Glucam P-20
Jo j oba
O i l
E s c a l o l 507
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i v e
%
15.0
15.0
20.0
17.5
8.0
6 . 5
5.0
4.0
2.0
2.0
5.0
q . s .
q . s .
Procedure :
a g i t a t i o n u n t i l m el te d. Cool t o j u s t b e f o r e c lo ud y, add
p r e s e r v a t i v e s . M o l d i n c o n t a i n e r s . ( N o te : C ap pin g may b e
necessa ry ) .
Load t h e waxes a nd t h e o i l s i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , u nd er
Solar Tanning Stick
Tan Color
Rosswax 26-1152
Rosswax
1824
M i n e r a l O i l 7
Dow S i l i c o n e 344
I s o p r op y l M y r i s t a t e
Coconut O i l 76
Ace tu 1an
Glucam P-20
Jo j oba
O i l
E s c a l o l
507
Fragrance
P r e s e r v a t i v e
30.0
20.0
17.5
8.0
6.5
5.0
4.0
2.0
2.0
5.0
q . s .
q . s .
Procedure :
Heat t h e waxes and t h e o i l i n a steam j a c k e te d k e t t l e t o
175F
un de r a g i t a t i o n . When m ixed f u l l y , c o o l t o j u s t b e f o r e
c l o u d y, a nd add F r a gr a nc e a nd P r e s e r v a t i v e . M o ld i n c o n t a i n e r s .
(No te: Capping may be ne ce ss ar y) .
SOURCE: Frank B. Ross C o . , Inc.: S ugges ted F o rmu l a t i ons
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Sun
Care
Products 411
Sun Block Soft Cream O/W)
Tested SPF 26
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a c e l 1 6 5
Eumulg in
B 2
L a n e t t e
0
M y r i t o l 3 1 8
C e t i o l OE
A b i l 100
Ben
Neo
Neo
Neo
Neo
c u t
B
Dem
Vee
one Gel M I 0
Hel iopan, Type OS
Hel iopan , Type
AV
Hel iopan, Type
E
1000
H e l io pan , Type MBC
na CBS
ne ra l ed w a te r
% ( w / w )
3 .00
1
. o o
2 . 0 0
4 . 0 0
3 . 00
1 . o o
3.00
3.00
5 .00
5.00
1 . 5 0
2 . 0 0
31 . 70
um u l t r a 1 . o o
G l y c e r i n 86% 3 . 0 0
Phenoni p 0.5 0
Neo Hel iop an, Type Hydro; used as a 15% s o l u t i o n 20.0 0
Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l
H&R
10.00
n e u t r a l i ed w i t h sod i um hyd rox i de ( a c t i v e : 3.00%)
C Perfume o i l
n . 3 0
M a n u f a c t u r i n g P ro c es s:
P a r t A: He at up t o 75C w i t h th o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n .
P a r t B :
H ea t t h e w a te r t o 9OC. D i spe rse t h e Veegurn i n t h e w a ter du r i ng
h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s a nd d i s p e r s e
t h e Z i n c O xi de n e u t r a l
H&R
i n t h e s o l u t i o n . Pu t P a r t B t o P ar t
A
w h i l e s t i r r i n g .
P a r t C :
emu1 s i on .
A t 30C add t h e p e rf um e o i l t o P a r t A / B and homogenize t h e
The p H- va lu e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u ls i on s h o u l d b e a p p ro x . 7 . 5
and has t o be checked .
SOURCE: Haarman 81 Reimer : Formula tSon K 18/2-21302/E
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412
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Filter Foam
A .
M i g l y o l 8 4 0
M i g l y o l 8 1 2
S o f t i s a n 6 4 9
S o f t i g e n 7 6 7
S o f t i g e n 7 0 1
C e t y l a1 coho1
S t e a r i c a c i d
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
Neo Hel iopan
E
1000
9. Perfume
Water
1 0 . 0
5 . 0
1 . o
1 . 5
0 . 5
1 . o
4 . 0
2 . 0
3 .0
qs
t o 1 00 .0
P r e p a r a t i o n
:
e m u l s i f i e d i n and p erfum e i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t 30C.
A l l
components under A . a r e h e at ed t o 7 0-75C. W ate r i s t h e n
A eroso l f i 11
i
g:
90% A c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t
10% Dr i v os o l 27
After Sun Stick
A .
B .
S o f t i g e n 7 6 7
Sodi um s t e a r a t e
G l y c e r o l
Sugar
D-Panthenol , 50%
A1 1a n t o i n
Water
Perfume
Ethanol 96%
P r e s e r v a t i v e
40 .0
8 . 0
1 0 . 0
8 . 0
6 . 0
0 .2
2 4 . 4
0 .1
3 .3
u s
P r e p a r a t i o n
:
60C, t h e mix i s s t i r r e d ,
8 .
be i ng added a t app rox . 4 0 C , and
when co ld i t i s c a s t i n t o mo uld s.
SOURCE: H u l s
A m e r i c a
I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s
for
C o s m e t i c s : Formulas
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e m e l t e d and d i s s o l v e d a t a pp ro x.
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Sun Care Products
413
Sun Protection Lotion
T h i s medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n u t i l i z e s a s y n e r g i s t i c Veegum/
R ho di ge l b l e n d t o h e l p s t a b i l i z e t h e e mu ls io n and m od i f y t h e
v i s c o s i t y . I n a d d i t i o n , t h i s f or mu la i nc o rp o ra te s
A-C
617G
p o l y e th y l e n e t o p r o v i d e a l u x u r i o u s a f t e r f e e l and im pro ve t h e
w ate r r e s i s t a n c e o f t h e sun p r o t e c t i o n
f i l m .
T h is p ro du ct i s
des i gned t o have an SPF (Sun P ro te c t i o n F a c to r ) o f abou t 15 .
I n n r e d i e n t
:
Veegum
Rhodi ge l
G l y c e r i n
Deion ized Water
A-C 61 7G Po ly et hy le ne
G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e , SE ( 2 )
D i o c t y l M a la te ( 3 )
C e t y l A l c o h o l
M i n e r a l O i l
S tea re th -2 ( 4 )
S t e a r e t h - 2 0 ( 5 )
Benzophenone-3 (6)
O c t y l D i m e t h y l
PABA
( 7 )
P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e
( 2 ) Kessco G l yc er o l Monos teara te
S.E.
(3 ) Ceraphy l
45
( 4 ) B r i j 72
( 5 ) B r i j 78
(6 ) E sca l o l 567
( 7 ) E s c a l o l 50 7
% bv
W t .
1
. o o
0.20
5 .50
68 .80
2.00
3
. O Q
2 . 0 0
0.50
4.00
0 . 3 0
2.70
3 .00
7 . 00
q . s .
P r e p a r a t i o n :
Dry b le n d Veegum and Rh od ige l . Add Veegum/Rhodigel b l e nd t o
wate r p rehe a ted t o 85-9OC. Hydra te us in g maximum a v a i l a b l e shear
u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and f r e e o f u n d is p er se d p a r t i c l e s . Add
g l y c e r i n an d m a i n t a i n t e m p e ra t u r e a t 85-9OC. I n a se p a r a t e co n -
t a i n e r , add a l l B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 85-9OC u n t i l a l l com-
ponents a re i n a l i q u i d s t a t e .
S t i r
g e n t l y as n e c es s ar y . S l o w l y
add B t o A and homogen ize f o r 5 m i nu tes . C oo l emu ls i on q u i c k l y t o
room t em p er at ur e w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Add C and m ix u n t i l
u n i f o r m .
Cons is tency :
tem per atu re : 1500-1900 cps.
Su gg este d P ac ka gi ng : P l a s t i c b o t t l e s o r t u b e s .
Comments :
T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u la i s d es ig ne d t o s e rv e as
a
g uid e f o r
t h e d ev elo pm en t o f new p r o d u c t s o r im pr ov em en t o f e x i s t i n g o ne s.
SOURCE: R .T , V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : F or m ul a
No. 4 4 4
F l o w a b le L i q u i d ; V i s c o s i t y m easu re d a f t e r 30 da ys a t room
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414
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Protection Lotion
T h i s medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n u t i l i z e s a s y n e r g i s t i c Veegum/
R ho dig el b l en d t o h e l p s t a b i l i z e t h e e m ul si on and m od if y t h e
v i s c o s i t y .
I t
i s d e si g ne d t o h a ve an SPF (Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r )
o f about 15.
I n q r e d i e n t :
Veegum
Rhodi ge l
G l y c e r i n
Deion ized Water
G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ,
SE
( 2 )
D i o c t y l M a l at e ( 3 )
C e t y l A l c o h o l
M i n e r a l
O i l
S t e a r e t h - 2 ( 4 )
S t e a r e t h - 2 0 ( 5 )
Benzophenone-3 ( 6 )
Oc ty l D i me thy l
PABA
( 7 )
P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e
(2 ) K essco G l yc e r o l Monos tea rate S . E .
(3) Ceraphy l 45
( 4 )
B r i j
72
( 5) B r i j 78
( 6 )
Esca lo l 567
( 7 ) E s c a l o l 507
% bv
W t .
1 . o o
0 .20
5 .50
70.80
3 .00
2.00
0 .50
4.00
0 .30
2 .70
3 .00
7 .00
Q S
P r e p a r a t i o n
:
Dry b le n d Veegum and Rh od ig el . Add Veegum/Rhodigel b l e nd t o
w a t e r p r e h e a t ed t o 75 t o 85C. H y d r a t e u s i n g maximum a v a i l a b l e
s he ar u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and f r e e o f u n d is pe r se d p a r t i c l e s .
Add g l y c e r i n a nd m a i n t a i n t e m p e r a tu r e a t 75 t o 85C. I n a sep -
a r a t e c o n t a in e r , add a l l B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 75 t o 85C
u n t i l a l l components a r e i n a l i q u i d s t a t e . S t i r g e n t l y as
necessary . S lo w ly add
B
t o A and homogenize f o r 5 m inu tes .
Cool e m ul si on t o r oom t em p er at ur e w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Add
C
and m ix u n t i l u n i f o rm .
C ons i s t ency : F l ow ab le 1 q u i d ; V i s c o s i t y measured a f t e r 30 days
a t room temp era tu r e : 750 t o 1000 cps
Comments:
T h i s p r o t o t y p e f or m ul a i s d es ig ne d t o s e r ve as a g ui de f o r
the deve lopment
o f
new p r o d u c t s o r i mp ro ve me nt o f e x i s t i n g o ne s.
SOURCE: R U T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 446
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Sun Care Products 415
Sunscreen
with
Amihope
An e l eg an t sunsc reen o f abou t SPF-15 u s i ng mic ro n i zed T i a n i urn
D i o x i d e .
A m i
hope LL p rov ides
i
mproved spr ead abi 1
i
y and an
e xc e l 1 e n t a f t e r f e e l
Ing red ien t /T rade Name: % by Weight
P a r t
A :
Deion ized Water 64 .30
S y n t h e t i c H e c t o r i t e 0 .8 0
D i
so d i um EDTA 0.10
G1 y c e r i
6 . 0 0
P a r t B : C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate 15.00
T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e
6 . 5 0
C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( an d ) C e t e ar e t h - 2 0 5 . 0 0
PEG-80 S o r b i t a n La ur at e 1
. o o
P a r t
C :
La ur oy l Lys ine/Amihope LL 1 . o o
B u t y l paraben 0.10
P a r t D : I s o p r o p y l p a r a b e n ( an d ) I s o b u t y l p a r a b e n ( an d )
DMDM H ydan to i n (and) I odop ropy ny l B u t y l ca rbama te 0 .20
8OC. Add re ma in ing p a r t
A
i n g r e d i e n t s . M ix u n t i l u n i f o rm . I n a
sep ara te c o n ta i n e r , homogeni ze t h e C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate and
T i t a n i um D i ox id e u n t i 1 smooth. Add remai n i ng p a r t B i g r ed i e n t s .
H ea t t o 8OC. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . M i x a t 80C f o r
30 m i nu tes u n t i l smooth and un i f o rm . C oo l t o 70C. Add p a r t D .
M i x w e l l . (Homogenize t o e ns ur e c o m pl e te d i s p e r s i o n . ) Cool t o
40C. Add p a r t
E .
C o n t i n ue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35C.
D is p er se t h e S y n t h e t i c H e c t o r i t e i n d e i o n iz e d w a te r . Heat t o
Appearance: O f f -w h i te , smooth, v i sc ou s c ream pH: 7 .20- 7 .80
V i s c o s i t y :
30,000-36,000
c ps ( B r o o k f i e l d 6
@ l O r p m @
25C)
W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with Elder
I na red ien ts /T rade Name:
%
by Weight
P a r t A :
S t e a r i c A c i d T r i p l
e
Pressed 4.00
C e t y l A1 coho1 1 . o o
DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amph isol 2. 00
Dimethicone(and)Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Dow Cor n in g 593 5 .00
Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate /Parso l MCX 7.50
Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 6 . 0 0
O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18 5 . 0 0
Oct y ld ode cy l Neopentanoa te /E le fac 1 -205 5 . 0 0
Methy lparaben (and) Bu t y lp ara ben (and) E thy lpara ben
D i
( c h o l e s t e r y l , b eh e n yl , o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N- La ur oy l- L-
G lu ta mic Ac id es te r / E ldew CL-301 5 .00
Par t B :
Dei on i zed Water 57.75
Sodium Carbomer/PNC 400 0. 25
P a r t C :
D i a z o l i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l
I 1
0.30
Dei on i zed Water 1 . o o
Combine p a r t
A
and h e a t t o 75 d eg re es C e n t i g r a d e w i t h m i x i n g .
H ea t d e i o n i z e d w a te r o f p a r t B t o 75 d e g re e s C . D i spe rse PNC 400
i n t o t h e w ate r w i t h h i g h shear m i x in g u n t i l u n i f o rm g el i s
fo rmed. Add p a r t
A
t o p a r t
0
w i t h m i x in g . H ol d a t
75
degrees
f o r 15 m i nu tes . C oo l t o 40 deg rees
C
and add p remixed par t
C
w i t h c o n t i n u e d m i x i n g . Cool t o 30 de gr ee s C .
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o US A, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
( and ) P ropy l pa raben /N i pas ta t 0 . 2 0
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416 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Balm, Cold Processing)
SPF 8
(DIN 67501)*
I n q r e d i e n t s :
Demi n e r a l
i
ed wate r
%(w/w)
72,900
E t h y l a l c o h o l ( 96 v o l . % ) d e na tu r ed 8; 00
T r i l o n
B
l i q u i d
D-Panthenol
Germal l 115
Phenoni p
Carbopol 940
Sodium hy dr ox id e (10% aq
1 , 2 - P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
Cremogen Aloe Vera
Neo Hel iopan, Type AV
B ay s i lo n e F l u i d
PK
20
B i s a b o l o l
Perfume
O i l
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :
s o l u t i on)
0,100
0,500
0,200
0 , 3 0 0
0,500
2,200
3,000
2,000
6,500
3 , 0 0 0
0,100
0,200
Te ste d mean SPF 8. 2 ac co rd in g t o t h e German D I N 67501 method.
Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :
P a r t
A :
a l co ho l and w a te r . Then s l ow l y add under s t i r r i n g C a rbopo l 940
and c o n t i n u e u n t i l c o m pl e te l y d i s p er s ed .
P a r t B :
r a l i z a t i o n .
A
t r an s pa r e nt h i g h v i s c i d g e l
w i l l
be formed.
P a r t
C :
gen A l oe V er a i n t o t h e g e l p a r t A/B.
P a r t
D :
i n t o t h e g e l p a r t A / B / C .
D is so lv e T r i l o n
B ,
P a nt he n ol a nd Ge r ma ll 115 i n t h e m i x t u r e o f
Add s l o w l y t h e s odium h y d ro x id e s o l u t i o n t o p a r t A f o r n eu t-
S u c c e s si v e ly add w i t h s t i r r i n g p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and Cremo-
B le nd t h e i n g r e d i e n t s and add t h e m i x tu r e w i t h s t i r r i n g
A f t e r c o m p l e t e m i x i n g i t i s n ec essa ry t o p ass t h e d i s p e r s i o n
t h ro u g h a ho mo ge nizer ( c o l l l o i d m i l l ) .
The Sunscreen Balm co n ta in s no emu1 s i f i e r .
SOURCE: Haarman & R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on
K
18/5-51132
A / €
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Sun
Care
Products
41
7
Sunscreen Cream
I l l u s t r a t e s t h e u s e o f Veegum P r o as a s u sp e nd in g a ge n t a nd
v i s c o s i t y m o d i f i e r . Veegum Pro e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l -
i z e s t h e e m ul si on even a t e l e v a t e d t em p e ra t u re s . T h i s l o t i o n ha s
an es t i ma ted SPF o f 12 and has a l i g h t f e e l w i t h qu i ck , g rease -
l e ss ru b - i n . Benzophenone-3 i s a UV-A a bs or be r f o r p r o t e c t i o n
a g a i n s t t a n n i ng r a d i a t i o n . O c t y l M et ho xy ci nnamate i s a U V - B
ab sorb er f o r p r o t e c t i o n a ga i n s t b u r n i ng r a d i a t i on.
I n q r e d i e n t :
A Veegum Pro
Water
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
B Benzophenone-3 (1)
C12-15 A l co h ol s Benzoate ( 2 )
Octy l Methoxyc innamate (3 )
M i n e r a l O i l ( an d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ( 4 )
S t e a r i c a c i d X X X
C18-36 Ac id (5)
G l y c o l S t e a r a t e S E ( 6 )
C e t y l a l c o h o l
v W t .
1 . 5
67.7
3 . 0
0 . 6
5 . 0
7 . 5
7 .5
4 . 0
2 . 0
0 . 2
0 . 5
0 . 5
C
P r es e r va t i v e , Dye, F rag rance
q . s .
( 1 ) U v i n u l M - 4 0
( 2 ) F i n s o l v
TN
( 3 ) P a r s o l
MCX
4 ) R i t a c h o l
( 5 )
Synchrowax AW1
-C
( 6 ) C e rasyn t MN
Procedure:
Heat t h e wat er t o 75 t o 8OC, th en s lo w ly add th e Veegum Pro
w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e sh e a r . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add
rernai n i ng i g r e d i e n t s i o r d e r shown w i t h c a r e f u l m i x i ng u n t i 1
smooth, m a i n t a i n a t 75 t o 8OC . Heat B t o 7 5 t o
8OC.
Add t o A
and m i x u n t i l c o o l . Add
C .
Consistency: Cream
Sugges ted Packag ing : Pump b o t t l e o r t u b e
Comments
:
development o f new pr od uc ts o r improvement
o f
e x i s t i n g ones.
S O U R C E : R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : F o r m ul a t i o n N o .
421
T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o rm u l a i s de si gn ed t o s e rv e as a g ui d e f o r t h e
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418
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Cream
1 .
2
3 .
4 .
5 .
6 .
7 .
8 .
9 .
A - C
P o l ye t hy l e ne 61 7
Beeswax
Amerchol L-101
M i n e r a l O i l , 70 S . S .
Dow F l u i d 200, 350 cs .
2 - E t h y l H e x yl S t e a r a t e
T r i g l y c e r o l
D i
i o s t e a r a t e
Esca lo l 507
P r o p y l P H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e
10 . S o rb i t o 1 (70%)
11.Sodium Bor at e , Anhydrous
1 2 . M e t h y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e
13.Germal l 115
14.Water
W L
3 . 0
2.0
5 . 0
6 . 2
1 . o
7 . 0
5 . 5
5 . 0
0 .1
5 . 0
0 . 3
0 . 2
0 . 3
59 .4
Procedure :
a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t el y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l
waxes w i l l e v e n t ua l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b le nd . I f a h i g h e r
s o l v a t i n g t e m pe r at u re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r .
H o l d t h e wax b l en d a t 85C. H ea t 10-14 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y
u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H ol d a t 85C.
P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , ad d a que ou s ph as e t o i t
and s he ar w i t h h omomixer o r c o l l o i d
m i l l .
A t
67C t h e c ru de
d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s a nd a t h i c k cream y e m ul si on f o r ms . C o n t i nu e
s h e a r in g w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e
t h e wh o le c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a re d . A dd pe rf um e , d e - ae r a te
and package.
Re f : 51 89-4-1
Weigh 1 - 9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d h as
W/O Sunscreen Cream
1. A-C Po ly et hy le ne 617
2
Beeswax
3 . Amerchol L-101
4 .
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
5 .
Dow
200
F l u i d , 350 c s .
6 . 2 - E t h y l H ex yl S t e a r a t e
7 . T r i g l y c e r o l
D i
i o s t e a r a t e
8 . Esca lo l 507
9 .
Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
10 . S o rb i t o 1 (70%)
11.Sodium Bor at e , Anhydrous
12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
13.Germal l 115
14 .Water
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g na l I n c .
:
S u g g e s t e d
F o r m u l a t i o n s
Wt.
3 . 0
2.0
5.0
6 . 2
1 . o
7.0
5 . 5
5 . 0
0 . 1
5 . 0
0 . 3
0 . 2
0 . 3
5 9 . 4
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Sun Care Products 419
Sunscreen Cream
Water-in-Oil (Expected SPF 15+)
A)
Lau ry l me th i cone cop o l y o l
C a r n a t i o n
M i
n e r a l
O i
1
Octy l p-methoxy c innamate
Benzophenone-3
T i t an iu m d i o x i d e ( s m a l l p a r t i c l e s i z e )
G l yce ry l monoo l ea te
C12-15 a lc oh ol s benzoate
H yd ro ge na te d c a s t o r o i l
B)
Water
S o d i u m c h l o r i d e
S o r b i t o l
(70 )
C)
P r e s e r v a t
i
e
2.00%
5 . 0 0
7 . 5 0
2.00
4 . 0 0
1 .oo
5 .00
0 .50
q . s .
2.00
3.00
Procedure:
v e ry s l o w l y u s i n g v er y v ig o ro u s a g i t a t i o n , h e a t i n g t o m e l t
h yd ro ge na te d c a s t o r o i l . Add C . Pass th rough homogen izer t o
i n s u r e s m a ll u n i f o r m p a r t i c l e s a r e p ro du ce d. Package.
Combine A us i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . Combine 0 . Add B t o A
Skin Bronzing Gream
L -T y ros i ne
Phenyl a1 an i ne
A s p a r t i c a c i d
Esc i n
Copper g lucona te
H y d r o l y z e d c o l l a g e n
C a r r o t o l e o r e s i n
S t .
J o h n ' s W ort e x t r a c t
D ihydroxyace tone
C e t y l a l c o h o l
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Emu1 s i f i r s , t h i cke n i ng
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l
O i
1
Lanol i n
S t e a r i n
T r i e thano l am i ne (85% )
Water
agen ts
0.20%
0.10
0 . 1 0
0 . 0 5
0 .01
1.50
0 .15
1 . o o
0.50
1
. o o
4 . 0 0
15.00
3 . 0 0
3 . 0 0
1 . o o
q . s . t o 1 00 .0 0
q . s .
SOURCE: W i t c o C orp . : P e t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s G roup : S uggested
F o rmu l a t i ons
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42 Cosmetic and Toiletry ormulations
Sunscreen Cream
1 .
2.
3 .
4 .
5 .
6 .
7 .
8 .
9 .
A - C Polye thy lene 617
Beeswax
Amerchol 1-101
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s .
2 - E t h y l H e xy l S t e a r a t e
T r i g l y c e r o l
D i
s o s t e a r a t e
E sca l o l 507
P r o py l - P -Hyd r o x yb e n z o a t e
1 0 . S o r b i o 1
(70%)
11.Sodium Borate, Anhydrous
1 2 . M e t h y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e
13.Germal l 115
14.Water
W t %
3 . 0
2 . 0
5 . 0
6 . 2
1 . 0
7 . 0
5 . 5
5 . 0
0 . 1
5 . 0
0 . 3
0 . 2
0 . 3
59 .4
Procedure:
a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x im a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l
waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e
in
t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v -
a t i n g te m pe r at ur e i s used , s o l v a t i o n c an be much f a s t e r . H o l d
th e wax b l e nd a t 85C . H eat 10-14 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g en t l y
u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H old a t 85C.
Weigh 1 -9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d h as
P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o
i t
and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i 11. A t 67C t h e c ru de d i s p -
e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k cream y em u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i nu e
s h e ar i ng w h i l e s c r a p in g t h e s i d e s
o f
t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e
t h e wh ol e c o n t e n t
i s
p ro pe r l y shea red . Add pe rf ume , de -ae ra te
and package.
Re f: 51 89-4-9
O/W Suns creen Lot ion
1 .
A - C
Copolymer 580
2 .
D i s t i 1 e d I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a te
3 . E sca l o l 507
4. Dow 556 F l u i d
5 . Pro py l ene G1 yc o l D i p e l a rgona te
6 .
Ethoxyo l 24
7 . A r l a c e l 6 0
8 . Tween 60
9 . P r o py l - p -Hyd r o x yb e n z o a t e
1 0 . S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 % )
11 .Carbop01 941
12 .T r i e t h ano l a m i ne
13 .M e thy l - p -Hyd roxybenzoa te
14.Water
SOURCE: A l l i e d S ig na l I n c .
:
S uggested F o rm u l a t i on s
w3.3
2 . 0
3 . 0
5 . 0
2 . 0
10 .0
1 . o
1 . o
2 . 0
0 . 1
5 . 0
0 . 5
0 .75
0 . 2
67.45
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Sun Care Products 421
Sun Screen Cream
W/O
A .
M i g l y o l G e l B
I m w i t o r
780K
A l u g e l
D F
30
9.
Hard p a r a f f i n
P a r a f f i n o i l
Euso lex 6300
A n t i o x i d a n t s
C . Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
D.
Eusolex 232
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
Mowiol 10-98
Water
W B
2 0 . 0
1 0 . 0
3 . 0
3.0
5 . 0
4 . 0
q s
qs
q s
6 0
5 . 0
3 0
100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
B . a re b rough t t o t he same tempera tu re and hea ted t o A .
D.
i s
h e at e d t o a p pr o x. 75C and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . + B . Perfume i s
i n c o r p o r a t e d a t a p p r o x . 30C.
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f
A .
a r e m ixed and hea ted t o
8OC.
Those o f
Sun Screen Cream
O/W
A . I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s
M i g l y o l 840
L a n e t t e N
Neo Hel iopan E 1000
B . 1 , 2 - P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
Hygro pl ex
HHG
Water
C. Perfume
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Wt%
1 0 . 0
8 . 0
6 . 0
3 .0
3 . 0
5 . 0
t o
1 0 0 . 0
q s
q s
P r e p a r a t i o n :
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f
A .
a r e h ea te d t o
75-8OC.
Those o f
13.
a r e
h e at ed t o t h e same t e m p e r a tu r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n
A .
Perfume
i s
added a t ap prox . 30C.
SOURCE: Huls Amer i ca Inc.: F o r m u l a t i o n s
f o r
Cosmet ics : Formulas
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Sun
Care Products
423
Sunscreen Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A Oc ty l me thoxyc i nn i ma te
Benzophenone-3
Ar lamo l
E
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
D imet h icone , 350 cp s.
B r i j 721s
B r i j 72
B Water , d e i o n i zed
Carbomer 940
C Water , de i o n i zed
Sod ium hydrox ide
(10
W / W aqueous)
7 .00
3 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
0 . 5 0
2 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
69.60
0 . 2 0
10.00
0 . 2 0
Procedure :
and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add
( C )
below 60 deg. C .
S t i r t o 35 deg .
C .
Add w a te r t o r e p l a c e loss b y e v a p o r a t i o n
and package.
H ea t (A ) t o 60 deg .
C
and (B ) t o 65 deg.
C .
Add 6 ) o
( A )
Sunscreen Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A O c t y l m e th o xy ci n n i mate
Benzophenone-3
Ar lamo l
E
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
D imeth icone, 350 cps.
B r i j 721s
B r i j 72
B Water , d e i o n i zed
Carbomer 940
C
Water, de i on i zed
Sodium hydrox ide (10%
W /W
aqueous)
%w/w
5 .00
0 . 5 0
5 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
0 . 5 0
2 . 0 0
2.00
74.10
0 . 2 0
1 0 . 0 0
0 . 2 0
Procedure:
H ea t (A ) t o 60 deg .
C
and (B ) t o 65 deg .
C .
Add
6 )
o (A )
and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add
( C )
below 60 deg.
C .
S t i r
t o 35 d eg.
C .
Add w at er t o r e p l a c e l o s s b y e v a p o r a t i o n and
package.
SOURCE:
IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug g es te d F o r m u l a t i o n s
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424 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Cream
I n a r e d i e n t : o ow w
P a r t
A :
De ion i zed Water 78.16
R heol a t e
5 0 0 0
0 . 3
P ropy l ene C a rbona te 2 . 5
P a r t
B :
Panal ene 8 . 0
S i l i c o n e 7 2 0 7 1 . o
Promulgen
D
0 . 5
Cerap hyl 494 2. 0
P a r t C :
AMP-95 0 . 2 4
P a r t
D :
Euxyl K-400
0 . 3
F i n so l v TN 2 .0
Esca lo l 507
5 . 0
M a n u f a c tu r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A b y s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e
p olym er t o t h e w at er , m i x i n g f o r 2 0 m i n u t e s, t h e n a d d in g t h e
p r o p y le n e g l y c o l . H eat t o 80C.
2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t 6 , t h en h e a t t o 78C.
3 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t
A
w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M i x f o r 1 0 mi nu tes , t hen
a d d P a r t
C .
4 . C oo l t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g P a r t
D .
Package a t Room Tem per atu re.
Formula TS-330
Suntan Cream
Mater
i
1s
:
%
by Weiqh t
P a r t
A :
1 . Dei on i zed Water 73 .50
2 . G l y c e r i n e 2 .5 0
3 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
0 . 7 0
4. Methy l Paraben 0 . 1 0
5 . Be nton e LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 . 5 0
P a r t E :
6. Ceraphy l 424
3 . 0 0
7 .
I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e 2 .0 0
0
A c e t o l 2 . 5 0
9 . C ocoa B u t t e r 1 . o o
10 .H ys t re ne 5016 4.00
11 .
Lexemul 503 6 .8 0
12 . E sc a l o l 507 3 .00
13 . P ro py l Paraben 0 . 1 0
P a r t
C :
Fragrance 0 . 3 0
M a n u f a c tu r i n g D i r e c t i o n s :
1 .
P a r t A - In a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l s team j a c k e te d k e t t l e , a dd i t e m s
1 t o 4 and he at t o 60C. Us ing a homomixer, add i t e m
5
s l o w l y
t o a v o i d lumps an d m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l homogeneous.
Heat t o 80C.
80C.
M i x u n t i 1 compl e t e l y me1 t e d and homogeneous.
2 . P a r t 5 - I n a s e p a r a te v e s s e l , add i t e m s 6 t o 13 and h e a t t o
3 . Add P a r t B s l o w l y i n P a r t A a t 80C u s i ng sweep b l ad es .
4 .
A t 50C, add P a r t
C,
homogenize and
f i l l
u n i t s .
Formula TS-256
SOURCE:
R h e o x ,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Sun
Care Products 425
Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF 10)
A
c l e a r s un sc re en g e l d es ig ne d t o p r o v i d e
UV
p r o t e c t i o n w h i l e
l e a v i n g t h e s k i n s o f t a nd c o n d i t i o n e d . Geahlene p r o v i d e s v i s c -
o s i t y , e m ol ?i en c y, and w a te r r e p e l l e n c y t o t h i s f or m u la .
Inqred ien t /T rade Name: Wei ah t%
A M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogena ted Bu t y len e /E thy lene /
St yre ne Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy le ne/
Pr op yle ne /St yr en e Copolymer/ /Geahlene 750 73.80
Oct y ldo dec y l Neopentanoa te /E le fac 1 -205 14 .00
T ocophe ro l A ce ta te /V i t am i n E A c e t a t e 0 . 5 0
Fragrance 0 .10
B Octy l Methoxyc innamate /Parso l MCX
Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40
O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18
Propy l paraben
7 .50
2 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
0 . 1 0
C D&C Green No. 6 q . s .
Procedure:
w i t h mode ra te m i x i ng . Add C as necessa ry .
Mix A u n t i l homogeneous. Heat B t o
6 0 C
u n t i l c l e a r . Add B t o A
Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF
12)
A
c l e a r s un sc re en g e l w i t h e x c e l l e n t s p r e a d a b i l i t y and a
p l ea s a nt , e m o l l i e n t a f t e r f e e l . Geahlene p r o v i d e s v i s c o s i t y ,
l u b r i c i t y , and w ate r r e p e l l e n c y t o t h i s f o rm u l a.
Inqred ien t /T rade Name:
Wei n h t%
A
M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Bu t y le ne / E th y len e /
St yr en e Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Et hy len e/
Pro py l ene /Sty ren e Copolymer //Geahlene 750 65.00
I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e / P r i s o r i ne 2021 2 0 . 8 0
Tocophero l Ace ta te /V i tami n E A c e t a t e 0 . 5 0
Fragrance 0 .10
B Octy l Methoxyc innamate /Parso l
MCX
Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40
O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18
Propy lparaben
7 .50
4.00
2 .00
0.10
C D&C Red
No.
4 Aluminum Lake q.s.
Procedure:
A w i t h mode rate m i x i ng . Add C as necessa ry .
SOURCE:
Penreco : Sugges ted For mu l a t i o ns
Mix A u n t i l homogeneous. Heat B t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add
B
t o
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426
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen
Gel
SPF 6
FDA-OTC)*
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A
E t h y l a l c o h o l ( 96 V o l . % ) denatu red
Demi n e r a l ed wat er
1 ,P -P ropy l ene g l y c o l
Germaben
I 1
A1 1a n t o i n
D-Panthenol
Carbopol 940
B Demi n e r a l i ed water
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
C
Demi n e r a l ed wat er
Neo He l i op an , Type Hydro
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
D
Cremophor NP 14
Perfume
O i l
E
Sunset Yel low 307009
1% a q. s o l u t i o n
5,000
60,350
5 , 0 0 0
1,000
0,100
0,500
1,100
5,000
2,200
15,000
2,000
1,200
1,200
0,300
0,050
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :
T e s te d SPF 5 . 9 o n a f i v e s u b j e c t p a n el a c c o r d i n g t o t h e
FDA-OTC p ro po se d me thod .
M a n u f a c t u r i n g
Process:
P a r t
A :
t o i n i n t h e a lc o h ol - wa t er s o l u t i o n . Then s l o w l y add w h i l e
s t i r r i n g Ca rb op ol 940 and c o n t in u e u n t i l c o m p l e te l y d i s p e rs e d .
P a r t
B :
D i l u t e t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g a ge nt w i t h w ate r a nd add s l o w l y i n t o
p a r t A f o r n e u t r a l i z a t i o n . A h i g h v i s c i d g e l w i l l be formed.
P a r t
C :
Add Neo H el i op a n , Type H yd ro w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e w a te r
t o g e t a s us pe ns io n. C on ti nu e s t i r r i n g and add s l o w l y t r i e t h a n -
o la m in e u n t i l t h e n e u t r a l i z a t i o n o f Neo H e l i o pa n , Type Hy dro
i s c om p le te and a c l e a r s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d . B e fo r e a d di ng t h e
s o l u t i o n i n t o t h e g e l p a r t
A / B , i t
i s recommendable t o f i l t e r t h e
s o l u t i on .
P a r t D :
t u r e w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e g e l
A / B / C .
P a r t
E :
D i s s o l v e p r o py l en e g l y c o l , Germaben 1 1 , Pa nt he no l and A1 1 an-
B le nd t h e pe rfu me o i l w i t h t h e s o l u b i l i z e r and add t h e m ix -
W h i l e s t i r r i n g , add t h e c o lo r a n t t o t h e t r an s pa r e nt g e l .
The
p H
v a l u e o f t h e g e l s h o u l d b e a p p ro x . 7 . 2 - 7 . 5. A t a pH
va l ue be l ow
7
Neo H e l i o pa n , Type Hy dr o c o u l d p r e c i p i t a t e .
SOURCE Haarman &
R e i m e r :
Formula
K 1 8 / 5 - 5 1 2 8 2
D/E
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Sun Care Products 427
Sunscreen Lotion
T h i s f o r m u la d em on st ra te s t h e r h e o l o g i c a and s t a b i l i z i n g
p r o p e r t i e s
o f
C era B e l l i n a and o f S i l i c o n y l Beeswax. I n c o r p -
o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f or m ul a i s t h e sunscreen N o H e l i o p a n
A V
( O c t y l m et ho xy cin na ma te ) g i v i n g t h i s f o r m u l a an a p p r o p r i a t e
SPF v a l u e . The p r o d u c t h as h i g h g l o s s a nd e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l .
The r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a a l l o w f o r t h i s
p r o d u ct t o b e packaged i n c o nv e n ie n t t u b e s o r squeeze b o t t l e s .
O i l
Phase:
Neo Hel iopan AV (H&R) 5.00%
Squalane (Centerchem) 2.00 %
Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax; Ko st er Keunen) 4.00%
Gl yc er o l Monos teara te (Henke l ) 0 .50%
L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l (W i tco ) 1 .50%
Is o s t e a r i c A c i d (Un ichema) 4 .00%
Liquapar (S u t t on ) 0 .40%
O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l e x ) 5.0 0%
Shea B u t t e r (K os te r Keunen) 4.00%
E m u ls i f y in g Wax (K os te r Keunen) 1.50%
V i t a m i n
E
(BASF) 0.10%
V i t a m i n
A
P a l m i t a te (BASF) 0 .10%
S t ea r i c A c i d (Un ichema)
0 . 5 0 %
Ce re s in e 130/135 (K os te r Keunen)
0.70%
Hex ane diol Behenyl Beeswax (K o st e r Keunen) 1.00%
S i l i c o n y l Beeswax (K os te r Keunen) 1 .40%
Pro py l Paraben (Su t to n) 0 .20%
E l e f a c I 205 (B er ne l ) 1 .40%
Sun f 1ower O i 1 ( L i po) 3.00%
P r op y le n e G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x ) 5 .0 0 %
Is op ro py l Pa lm i ta te (Un ichema) 3 .00%
D i
os tea ry l Mal a t e (B e rne l ) 1 .20%
Gamma Orz ano l ( K o s t e r Keunen)
1 .OO
Water Phase:
Water ( D i s t i 11ed) 41
.70%
1,3 -Bu ty lene G l yc o l (Hoechs t ) 3 .00%
C a r b o x y m e t h y l C e l l u l o s e ( H e r c u l e s ) 0.30%
K e l t r o l TF (K e l co ) 0.30%
Methy l Paraben (S ut to n) 0 .30%
Sodium Borate (Borax) 0.60%
Water Phase 11:
W ater ( D i s t i l l e d ) 5 .00%
Tea
99%
(Dow)
0.80
Act i
e Phase :
S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow) 1.00%
Phenonip (N ip a) 0.50%
He at t h e w a te r pha se t o
8OC
u nder a g i t a t i o n e n s u ri n g t h a t
t h e e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . Heat and m ix t h e o i l phase t o
82C. S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase, c o o l t o
70C
and add water phase
11. Cool
t o 40 a n d add t h e a c t i v e p ha se .
C oo l t o room tempe ra tu re .
I t
i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunscreen t o s u i t your p re fe re n ce ,
w i t h o u t c h an g in g t h e c o n s i s t e n c y . The em u ls io n v i s c o s i t y ca n
e a s i l y b e a l t e r e d by ch an gin g t h e o i l a nd /o r wax c o n c e n t r a t io n .
Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) ca n be added t o natu ra l l y enhance SPF .
SOURCE:
Koster Keunen, I nc . : Sugges ted Formu la t i ons
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428 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (approx. SPF 15)
T h i s n on gr ea sy s un sc re en i s e a s i l y a p p l i e d a nd h as a
d r y a f t e r f e e l . The Geahlene 750 adds v i s c o s i t y and r i c h n e s s
t o t h e l o t i o n , and sh ou ld c o n t r i b u t e t o wa te r r e s i s ta n ce .
Ins red ien t /T rade Name:
A Deion ized Water
A c r y l a t e s C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C ro s s-
Methy lparaben
T e tr asod ium EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220
polymer/Carbopol 1382
B T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 9 9 %
C M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hvdrosenated Bu tv le ne /E th y lene /
S ty ren e Copo lymer i a n d j Hyd
Propy lene/Styrene Copolymer
Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate /Parso
Benzophenone-3/Uvinul
M-40
O c t y l S a l i y1 a te /U v i nu l 0-1 8
C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16
Propy lparaben
P h e n o x y e t h a n o l / E m e r e s s e n c e
1
ogenated E thy lene /
/Geahl ene
750
MCX
60
S te a r i c Ac i d /Emersol 132
Po ta ss i um C e t y l Phosphate/Amphi s o l K
D D i
azo1
i
i ny l U rea/Germa l l
I 1
Procedure :
F ragrance
Wei ah t%
69.80
0 .20
0 . 1 5
0.10
0.20
0 . 0 0
7 .5 0
4.00
2
*
00
1
. o o
0 . 0 5
0 .60
2.00
2 . 0 0
0 .30
0 .1 0
D i sperse Carbopol 1382 i r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed w a t e r .
M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y l u m p- f re e . Heat t o 80C. Add rema in ing p a r t
i n g r e d i e n t s . Add p a r t
B
t o p a r t A . M ix u n t i l u n i fo rm . I n a
s e pa r a te c o n t a i n e r , h e at p a r t C t o 80-85C. M ix u n t i l a l l t h e
s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A . M i x f o r 30 m in u te s
u n t i l homogeneous. C oo l t o 4 0 C . A dd pa r t D . C on t i nue m i x i ng and
c o o l i n g t o 30C.
SOURCE: Penreco : Suggested Fo rm u l a t i on
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Sun Care
Products 429
Sunscreen Lotion
I n s r e d i e n t s :
A Oc ty l me thoxyci nn ima te
Benzophenone-3
P e t r o l a t u m
Dimeth icone
B r i j 721s
B r i j 72
B Water , de i o n i zed
Carbomer 934
C Water, de i on i zed
Sodium hydrox ide
(10% W /W
aqueous)
w
7 .00
3 . 0 0
25.00
3.00
1.20
3 .00
46.60
0 . 2 0
10.00
0.20
Procedure:
and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) b e lo w
60
deg. C .
S t i r
t o 35 deg .
C .
Add w at e r t o r e p l a c e l o s s b y e v a po r a t i on
and package.
He at (A ) t o
60
deg.
C
and
( 8 )
t o 6 5 d eg .
C .
Add (B) t o (A)
O/W Emoll ient Sunscreen Lotion
I n n r e d i e n t s :
A O c t y l d im et hy l PABA
Benzophenone-3
Ar lamol
E
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
D imeth icone
A r l aso l ve 200
B r i j 72
Carbomer 934
B Water
C
Sodium hy dr ox id e (10% W /W aqueous)
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e a n d f r a g r a n c e
* q . s . t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .
w
7 .00
3 . 0 0
7 . 0 0
2 .50
1 . o o
3 . 1 0
3.90
72.10
0.20
0 .20
Procedure:
D ispe rse Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t (B ) t o 70C. Heat
( A )
t o
72C. and add ( B) t o ( A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w ly add
( C ) and in c r ea se speed of t h e a g i t a t i o n a s ne ed ed. Add ( D ) and
r e p l a c e w a te r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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43
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (O/W)
SPF 6 (DIN 67501)*
I n n r e d i e n t s :
Demi n e r a l ed wa ter
Carbopol 934
Sodium hyd rox i de , ( 10% aq. s o l u t i o n )
T e g i n
M
Tagat S
L a n e t t e 0
P a r a f f i n o i 1 ( 70 mPas)
I s o p ro p y l m y r i s t a t e
M y r i t o l 318
Neo Hel iopan, Type
A V
C e t i o l
MM
A b i l 100
Pheno ni p
Demi n e r a l i ed wate r
Pheno ni p
Neo He l io pa n, Type Hydro
u se d a s a 15% a q. s o l u t i o n n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h
i d e c o r r e s p o n d i n g
0,5
a c t i v e Neo H e l i o p a n ,
1 , 2 - P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
Demi n e r a l i ed water
P hosphor i c ac i d ,
D i
sod i um s a l t
P hosphor i c ac i d , Monopotassium s a l t
Perfume
O i l
% ( w / w )
25,000
0,400
2,050
2,500
1,950
1,800
2,500
2,000
3,000
2,500
2,000
0,500
0,200
36,850
0,300
3,350
s o d i urn hy dr ox -
Type Hydro
2,000
10,000
0,580
0,120
0,400
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r
Tested mean SPF 6 according t o t h e German D I N 67501 method.
M a n u f a c t u r i n g P r oc e ss :
P a r t
A :
D i sp e rs e t h e C a rb op ol i n wa t er u s i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n .
M i x t o fo rm a u n i fo r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f ro m lumps. W i th s t i r r i n g
add t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n t h e sodium h y d ro x id e s o l u t i o n t o f or m a
h i gh v i s c i d g e l .
P a r t : Heat t o 75C.
P a r t
C :
M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 60C and add t h e Ca rb op ol g e l p a r t A .
P a r t
D:
D i s s o l v e D i so d i um Phosp hate and P o t a s s i um Phosp hate i
w a te r a t
60C .
Add t h e b u f f e r s o l u t i o n t o t h e e m u ls io n a t 55-60C.
P a r t
E :
C o nt in ue s t i r r i n g t o room te m pe ra tu re .
H ea t t o 85C. Add p a r t
C
t o p a r t
B
w h i l e s t i r r i n g r a p i d l y .
Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o 35-40C and add t h e p e rfu me o i l .
The pH-value
o f
t h e f i n i s h e d e m u ls io n s h o u ld be
7 . 5
and
m ust be c o n t r o l l e d .
SOURCE:
Haarman
&
R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on
K
18/1-51093
D / E
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Sun
Care
Products 431
Sunscreen Lotion (o/w)
SPF 11 (DIN 67501)*
I n a r e d i e n t s :
T e g i n M
Tagat
S
L a n e t t e 0
P a r a f f i n o i l (70mPas)
I s o p r o p y l m y ri s t a t e
M y r i t o l 3 18
Neo Hel iopan, Type
E
C e t i o l
MM
A b i l 1 0 0
Phenoni p
1000
%(w/w)
3,500
1,500
2 ,700
2 , 0 0 0
2,000
3,000
3,000
2 , 000
0,500
0 ,200
D e m i n e r a l i z e d w a t e r
5 2 , 5 0 0
Carb opol 934 0,400
Sod ium hydrox ide
(10%
a q. s o l u t i o n ) 2 ,0 50
Neo Hel iopan, Type Hydro used as a 15 a q . s o l u t i o n 13 ,3 50
n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sod iu m h y d r o x i d e c o r r e s p on d i n g 2%
a c t i v e Neo He l i op an , Type Hydro
Phenoni p
0 , 2 0 0
D e m i n e r a l i z e d w a t e r
P h os p ho ri c a c i d , D is od iu m s a l t
P hospho ri c ac i d , Monopotassi um s a l t
10,000
0,580
0,120
Perfume O i l 0,400
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :
Te st ed mean SPF 1 1. 8 a cc or di n g t o t h e German DIN 67501
method.
Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :
P a r t A : Heat t o
7 5 C .
P a r t 8 :
D i s p e rs e t h e C a rb op ol w e l l i n w a te r u s i n g h i g h speed a g i t -
a t i o n . M i x t o f o r m a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f r o m lu mp s. Add
w i t h s t i r r i n g t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n Phenonip and t h e sodium h yd ro x-
i d e s o l u t i o n . Then add t h e n e u t r a l i z e d s o l u t i o n o f t h e 15% Neo
H e l i op an , T ype H yd ro and hea t t o 85C. Add p a r t
B
s l o w ly w i t h
t h o ro ug h a g i t a t i o n t o p a r t A . Then c o o l w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 60C.
P a r t C :
a t 60C ( b u f f e r s ys t em ) . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A/B and c o o l w i t h
s t i r r i n g t o 35-40C.
P a r t D :
D i s s o l v e D i c a l c i um Phosphate and Po ta ss i um Phosphate i n water
Add t h e p er fum e o i l and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o room t e mp e ra tu r e.
The pH v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s io n s h o u l d b e 7 . 5 a nd mu st
be c o n t r o l l e d .
SOURCE: Haarman
&
R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on K 1 8 / 1 - 5 1 0 9 7 / E
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432 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (O/W)
SPF 4 (DIN 67501)
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a t o n e 9 8 3 S
B r i j 76
L a n e t t e
0
P a r a f f i n o i l ( 70 mPas)
Cegesof t C24
E u tano l
G
B a y s i l o n e F l u i d M10
Neo Hel iopan, Type
E
1000
S o l b r o l P
1 , 2 P r o p yl e ne g l y c o l
S o l b r o l M
Germal l 115
Carbopol 934
Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% s o l u t i o n i n
Perfume
O i l
B D e m i n e r a l i z e d w a t e r
C Demi n e r a l i ed wate r
w a t e r )
%(w/w)
1,500
1 , 0 0 0
I
200
2,000
3,000
5 , 0 0 0
1 , 0 0 0
3,500
o , oao
52,370
2,000
0,200
0 ,150
25,000
0,300
1,300
0,400
Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :
P a r t
A :
Heat up t o 75C.
P a r t B : Heat up t o 85C. Add p a r t
B
t o p a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g .
P a r t C : D i s p e r s e t h e C ar bo po l i n t h e w at e r u s i n g h i g h speed
Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 55C.
a g i t a t i o n . M i x t o f o rm a u n i fo r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f r om lum ps.
Add sodium hy d ro x id e s o l u t i o n w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o f o rm a h ig h
v i s c i d g e l . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A/B w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A t 3 5 C add
t h e f r a g r a n c e a nd c o o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o room te m pe ra tu re .
The pH v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u ls i on s h o u l d b e 7 -7 . 5.
SOURCE: Haarman
&
Reimer : Formula
K 1 8 / 1 - 5 1
0 9 0 / E
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Sun Care
Products 433
Sunscreen Lotion (o/w)
SPF 18 (FDA-OTC)*
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Neo
H e l i o p a n ,
Type A V
Neo H e l i opan , TvDe
MA
.
_ .
I s o p r op y l m y ri s t a t e
Myr j 52
C u t i n a MD
Promulgen
D
Antaron V-220
B ay s i lo n e F l u i d M 10
Demi n e r a l i ed wate r
Carbopol 940; used as a 2% aq. s o l u t i o n
1 , 2 - P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
T r i l o n BD
%(w/w)
7,500
5,000
3 i 0 0 0
2,000
3,000
2,000
4,000
2,000
45,830
15,000
2,000
0,100
Neo He l io pa n, Type Hydro used as a 30% aq. s o l u t i o n 6,670
n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e c o r re s p on d in g 2%
a c t i v e Neo He l i op an Type Hydro
T r i e thano l am i ne 0 ,500
Germaben
I 1
Perfume
O i l
1,000
0,400
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :
Tes te d mean SPF va lu e 18 .25 on a f i v e su b j ec t pane l
ac co rd in g t o t h e FDA-OTC propo sed method.
Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :
I n a s u i t a b l e v e s se l w ei gh p hase
A
and h e a t t o 75C w i t h
a g i t a t i o n . I n a no th er v es se l a b l e t o c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e b a tc h,
w e igh phase B and hea t t o 75C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S l ow l y add phase
A t o phase 0 , m i x for
10
mi nu t es and add phase C . M i x u n t i l
u n i f o r m and s t a r t c o o l i g w i t h c o n t in u o u s a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 40C
and add phases D and E. C on t in ue c o o l i n g w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o
28-25C and pa ckag e.
SOURCE: Haarman & R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on
K
18/1-51677/E
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434 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (w/o)
SPF
10
(DIN
67501)*
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
A r l a c e l
481
A r l a c e l 9 8 9
Eutano l
G
I s o p r op y l i s o s t e a r a t e
P a r a f f i n o i l ( 70 mPas)
Neo Hel iopan, Type
E
1000
Neo Hel iopan, Type
A V
Neo Hel iopan, Type
BB
B a ys i l on e F l u i d M 10
Vase l i ne Type Merkur 1546
Amerchol L 101
S o l b r o l P
B Demi n e r a l
i
ed water
S o l b r o l
M
G l y c e r i n 8 6 %
Magnesi um s u l f a t e
%(w/w)
3,500
1,500
2,250
2,250
3,340
4,000
4 ,000
1,000
1,000
7,500
1,000
0,080
65,380
0,200
2,000
0 , 5 0 0
C Perfume O i l
0 ,500
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :
Teste d mean SPF 1 0. 6 a cc or d i ng t o t h e German D I N 67501
method.
Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :
P a r t A : Heat t o 75C.
P a r t B :
s t i r r i n g . A t 70C homogenize t h e emuls ion f o r a few mi nu te s .
P a r t C :
35C i n t o t h e e m u ls io n . Then c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o r oom temp-
e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: Haarman & R e i m e r : F o r m u l a t i o n K
1 8 / 1 - 5 1 0 9 8 / E
Heat t o 85-9OC. Add p a r t B t o p a r t
A
s l o w l y u nd e r t h o r o u g h
C on t i nu e c o o l i n g under s t i r r i n g and add t h e per fume o i l a t
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Sun Care Products 435
Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) cold processing)
SPF (FDA-OTC)*, waterproof**
I n p r e d i e n t s :
A Demi n e r a l i ed w a te r
1
, Z - p r o p y l ene g l y c o l
A r o s o l
S o l b r o l M
S o l b r o l P
T r i l o n
B
l i q u i d
B Nso Hel iopan, Type
A V
Neo He l io pa n, Type E 1 0 0 0
P a r a f f i n o i l
( 7 0
mPas)
C e t i o l
S
Lameform TGI
Perfum e o i l
Pemulen TR-1
Carbopol 954
%(w/w)
77,500
2,000
0 ,500
0,250
0,100
0 , 1 0 0
3 ,000
3,000
6,500
5,000
1 , 0 0 0
0,300
0,250
0 ,050
C T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 , 4 5 0
*Sun P r o te c t i o n F ac to r (S P F ) :
The SPF was de te rm i ned on a f i v e s ub j e c t pane l t e s t acco rd i ng
t o t h e FDA-OTC pro pos ed method.
The p r o ce d u re f o r d e t e r m i n i n g " w a t e r p r o o f " e f f e c t i v e n e s s was
20 m i nu te s m o de ra te a c t i v i t y i n w a t e r . The SPF b e f o r e wa te r
i mmers ion was 5 . 7 and a f t e r w a te r i mmers i on 6 .1 .
* *Waterp roo f :
Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :
P a r t A :
m i x t u r e and T r i l o n
B
l i q u i d t o t h e w at e r .
P a r t
B :
C ar bo po l and Pemulen v e r y c a r e f u l l y w i t h h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n .
Then add p a r t B t o p a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . S t i r f o r 45 m in u t e s .
P a r t C :
The pH - va lu e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u ls i on s h o u l d be a p p ro x . 7 a nd
has t o b e c o n t r o l l e d .
SOURCE: Haarman
&
R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on K 1 8 / 1 - 5 1
6 6 9
C / E
D i s s o l v e A r o s o l , S o l t r o l P and
M
i n pr o py le n e g l y c o l . Add t h e
M i x a1 1 i n g r ed i e n t s (w i t ho u t Permul en and C a rbopo l
)
. D i s p e r s e
Add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w h i l e s t i r r i n g and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous.
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436 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion
SPF 3 FDA-OTC)*
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
Neo He l io pa n, Type
AV
Neo Hel iopan, Type BB
Neo He l i op an , Type 303
Ganex WP 660
L a n e t t e 0
A b i l 1 0 0
Protachem SQI
B D e i o n i z e d w a t e r
Carbopo l 940 used as a 2% aq . s o l u t i o n
Pemulen TR-1 used as a 2% aq. s o l u t i o n
l I 2 - Pr o p y 1 ene g l y c o l
%(w/w)
7,500
6,000
91000
3,000
0,500
2,000
0,200
52,150
5,000
10,000
3,000
C T r i e th ano l ami ne 0 ,250
D Germaben I 1
Perfume
O i l
1,000
0.400
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :
T e s t e d SPF 3 1 .5 on a f i v e s u b j e c t p a ne l a c c o r d i n g t o t h e
FDA-OTC proposed method.
Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :
I n a s u i t a b l e v e s s el w ei gh p hase
A ,
h e a t up t o BOC-85C and
m ix u n t i l u n i f o rm . I n a no th er v es se l a b l e t o c o n t a in t h e e n t i r e
b a t c h , w e ig h ph ase 8, h e a t t o 80C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y
add phase A t o phase B w i t h a g i t a t i o n and m ix f o r t e n m i nu te s .
S l ow ly add phase C and s t a r t c o o l i n g . Cool w i t h c o nt in u ou s a g i t -
a t i o n t o 40C and add phase D . C on tin ue c o o l i n g w i t h a g i t a t i o n
t o 28C-25C. M i l l and package.
SOURCE: Haarman
&
R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on H 101-47-5
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Sun
Care
Products 437
Sunscreen Lotion (O/W)
Tested
SPF 10
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a c e l 1 6 5
Eumulgin
B
2
L a n e t t e
0
M y r i t o l 3 1 8
C e t i o l O E
A b i l 1 0 0
Bentone Gel
M I 0
C u t i n a
CBS
Neo Hel iopan, Type AV
Neo He l i op an , Type
E
1000
Neo H e l i o pa n , Type MBC
Neo H e l i o p a n , Type BB
B D emi ne ra l i zed w a te r
Phenoni p
G l y c e r i n 8 6 %
Veegum u l t r a
Nat roso l 250 HHR
Z i n c O xid e n e u t r a l H&R
C
Perfume o i l
% ( w / w l
3.00
1
. o o
1 .15
4 . 0 0
5.00
1 . o o
3.00
1
. oo
3.00
3 . 0 0
1 . o o
0.70
63.05
0.50
3 . 0 0
1 . o o
0 . 3 0
5.00
0.30
Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :
P a r t A : H ea t up t o 75C w i t h th o ro u g h a g i t a t i o n .
P a r t 8 :
add t h e Veegum u l t r a a nd t h e N a t r o s o l d u r i n g h i g h s peed a g i t a -
t i o n . Then d i s p e r s e Z i n c O xi de N e u t r a l H&R i n t h e w a t er phase.
Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Cool down w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o
room temperature .
P a r t
C :
emu1 s i on.
and has t o be checked .
Add Phenonip and g l y c e r i n t o th e wat e r . Hea t up t o 95C. Then
A t 30C add t h e pe r fume o i l t o P a r t A /B and homogen ize t h e
The p H- va lu e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s io n s h o u l d b e a p p r o x . 7
I n s t r u c t n
:
I n EEC c o u n t r i e s t h e u se o f m ore t h a n 0 . 5 % Benzophenone-3 i n
s u n s c r e e n p r o d u c t s i 1i b l e t o d ec la re :
conta ins Oxybenzone.
SOURCE:
Haarman
8
Reimer: Formula K 18/1-21287/E
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438
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (O/W)
Tested
SPF
16
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A r l a c e l 165
Eumulgin 82
L a n e t t e 0
M y r i t o l
318
C e t i o l
OE
A b i l
100
Bentone Gel
M I 0
Neo He1i pan, Type
AV
Neo He l io pa n, Type
E 1000
C u t i n a CBS
Demi n e r a l i ed wate r
G l y c e r i n
86%
Phenoni p
Neo He l i op an , Type Hydro; used as a
n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium h y d r o xi d e
Veegum u l t r a
N a t r o s o l 250 HHR
Z i n c O x id e n e u t r a l H&R
%(w/w)
3 . 0 0
. o o
1 . o o
4.00
5.00
O O
3,OO
4.00
4.00
1
. o o
49.60
3.00
0.50
15%
s o l u t i o n
13.30
.oo
0.30
5.00
( a c t i v e :
2.00 )
Perfume o i l
0 . 3 0
Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :
P a r t
A :
Heat up t o 75C w i t h t ho ro ug h a g i t a t i o n .
P a r t 8 :
s o l u t i o n t o t h e w a t e r . H ea t u p t o 95C. Add Veegum u l t r a an d
N a t r o s o l d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add Z i n c O x id e
n e u t r a l H&R and d i sp er se . Add Pa r t B w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o P a r t A
C on ti nu e s t i r r i n g t o toom t em pe ra tu re .
P a r t C :
emu l s i on .
7 . 5 and has t o be checked .
SOURCE: Haarman
&
Reimer : Formu la t i on K 18/1-21284/E
Add Phenonip, g l y c e r i n and t h e Ne0 Hel iop an, Type Hydro
A t 30C add t h e perfume o i l t o P a r t A / B and homogenize the
The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u ls i on s h o u l d be a pp ro x.
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Sun
Care
Products
439
Sunscreen Lotion (w/o)
SPF 6 (FDA-OTC), waterproof*
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A A b i l
EM
90
T eg i n T 4753
C e t i o l
S
P a r a f f i n o i l ( 34 mPas)
% ( w / w )
2,000
1,000
l7;OOO
8,500
B Demi n e r a l i ed wa te r 58,450
Neo He l io pa n, Type Hydro used as a 30% aq s o l u t i o n
10,000
n e u t r a l
i
ed w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e c o r re s p on d in g 3%
a c t i v e Neo He l i op an , Type Hydro
1
, 2 -P ropy l ene g l y c o l 2 ,000
T r i et ha no l ami ne 0,350
Phenoni p 0,400
C
Perfume
O i l
0,300
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :
Teste d mean SPF va lu e b e f o r e swim 6.32 and a f t e r swim 5.7 6
on a f i v e su b j e c t pane l a cco rd i n g t o t h e FDA-OTC p roposed
method.
M a n u f a c t u r i n g P ro c es s:
P a r t A : Heat t o 70C.
P a r t
B:
D i s s o l v e t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e w a t e r. The pH v a l u e o f t h e
w a te r phase p a r t B sh ou ld be 7 .5 and mus t be c o n t r o l l e d . Now
a d d p a r t
B
w h i le s l o w l y s t i r r i n g t o p a r t
A
w i t h i n a t i m e o f 3-5
m i nu t e s ( h o t / c o l d p r o c e d ur e ).
P a r t
C :
e m u ls i on t h r o u g h a h om og en is er ( c o l l o i d m i l l ) .
SOURCE:
Haarrnan
&
Rei rner : Formu la t i on
K 1 8 / 1 - 5 1 5 6 6
A / E
C o nt in u e s t i r r i n g , a t 30C a dd t h e f r a g r a n c e . Then pa ss t h e
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440
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (W/O)
Tested
SPF 11
I n n r e d i e n t s :
A Dehymuls HRE 7
Lameform TGI
Pemul g i n 3220
I s o p r o p y l i s o s t e a r a t e
C e t i o l
OE
B a ys i lo n e F l u i d M 10
V i t a m i n
E
A c e t a t e
Neo He l i op an , Type AV
Neo Hel iopan, Type E 1000
Neo He1
i
pan, Type MBC
Neo H e li op an , Type BB
B
Demi n e r a l
i
ed wate r
G l y c e r i n
86%
Phenoni p
Z i nc Ox i de n e u t r a l H&R
C Perfume o i l
%(w/w)
4 . 0 0
4 .00
1 . so
8.00
7 .50
1 . o o
0 . 5 0
4.00
4 . 0 0
1 . 0 0
1
. so
54.10
3.00
0.50
5 . 0 0
0.40
Manu fac tu r i ng P rocess :
P a r t A : H ea t up t o 75C w i t h t ho r o ug h a g i t a t i o n .
P a r t B :
and d i s p e r s e t h e Z i n c O x id e n e u t r a l H&R. Add P a r t B t o p a r t
s l o w ly w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C on tin ue s t i r r i n g t o room t em pe ra tu re .
P a r t
C :
emu l s i on .
Heat up t o 9OC ( w i t ho u t t h e Z i nc Ox ide n eu t r a l H&R). Then add
A t 40C add t h e pe rfu me o i l t o p a r t A / B and homogenize the
I n s t r u c t i on :
s un sc re en p r o d u c t s i s l i a b l e t o d e c l a r e : c o n t a i n s O xybenzone.
SOURCE: Haarman & R e i mer : F o rmu l a t i on K 18/1-51835/E
I n EEC c o u n t r i e s t h e u s e
o f
more th a n 0.5% Benzophenone-3 i n
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Sun
Care
Products
441
Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream
T h is f o r m ul a dem onstra tes t h e s t a b i l i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f
S i l i c o n y l B eeswax. I n c o rp o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f or m ul a i s t h e sun-
screen Neo Hel iopan AV ( O c t y l m et ho xy ci nn am at e) g i v i n g t h i s
fo rmu la an app ro pr ia te SPF va lu e . The cream has h i g h g l os s
and e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l .
O i l Phase:
Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Ko st er Keunen) 6.0%
E l e fac I
05
( B e r n e l )
1.4%
Gl yc e ro l Monos tea ra te (H enke l)
1.4
I sop ropy l P a l m i t a te (U n i chema)
2.0%
Ceres ine
130/135
(Koster Keunen)
1.3%
Propy l Paraben (Su t ton)
0.2%
Squalane (Centerchem)
1.8%
J o jo b a o i l ( J o j o b a Grow ers) 1 .O
L i q u a p a r ( S u t t o n )
0.4%
Neo Hel iopan
AV
(H&R)
5.0%
V i t a m i n E (BASF) 1 .O
O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l e x ) 2.5%
Shea But ter (Koster Keunen) 2 5%
I s o s t e a r i c a c i d ( Un ich em a) 3 .O
L ipopeg 1 0 0 - S ( L i p o ) 1.5%
S i l i c o n y l Beeswax (Ko s te r Keunen)
3 . 0 %
Em ul s i fy in g Beeswax (K os te r Keunen)
1.7%
Hex ane dio l Behenyl Beeswax (K o s te r Keunen) 1
.O
Gamma Orz an ol ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 .O
Water Phase:
Water ( D i s t i 1 e d )
44.3%
B u ty l ene G l yco l (H oechst ) 3.0%
Sodium Borate (Borax) 0.8
Methy l Paraben (S u t ton )
0.3%
Aloe Vera Gel
1:l
( A c t i v e O r g a n i c s )
3.0%
G l y c e r i n 99%
4.0%
K e l t r o l TF ( Ke l co ) 0 .3
Water Phase 11:
T EA 99% (Dow) .O
A c t i ve P hase :
S i l i c o n e
245
(Dow)
1.0%
Phenoni p (N i pa) 0.5%
Procedure:
e n t i r e p hase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . M e l t and m ix t h e o i l phase t o 8 2 C
i s m ai nt ai ne d. A t t h e l a s t m i n u t e added t h e gamma o r za n o l t o
t h e o i l phase, a l l o w t o d i sp e r se t h e n s l o w l y add t h e o i l phase
t o t h e w at er phase w h i l e m i x i n g. A l l o w t o co o l t o
45C
and add
t h e s i l i c o n e and t h e p he n on ip . Cool t o room t e m pe r at u re .
A d a p t a t i o n
o f
f or mu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o du c t :
I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunsc reen t o s u i t y ou r p re fe re nc e ,
w i t h ou t chang i ng t h e con s i s t enc y The emu1 s i on v i s co si t y can
e a s i l y b e a l t e r e d b y c ha ng in g t h e o i l a nd /o r wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n .
Orange Wax (K os te r Keunen) can be added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e
SPF.
SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Form u la t i on s
D .
I.
Water
5.0%
He at t h e wa t e r p ha se t o
8OC
under a g i t a t i o n e n su r i ng t h a t t h e
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442 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Tanning Accelerator
P a r t A :
Water
Carbomer
934
P a r t 0 :
Rosswax 1824
Rosswax 2540
Ross Jojoba
O i l
' E sca l o l
507
Coconut
O i l
#76
Uni pe r t an P-24
P a r t C :
Germaben
I 1
P a r t D:
F rag rance
P a r t E :
T r i
et ha no l ami ne
GMS-SE
Pa r t s by Wei qh t
5 0 0 . 0
2 . 0
15 .0
6 . 0
6 . 0
4 . 0
1 2 . 0
25 .0
3 . 0
6 . 0
q . s .
4 . 5
Procedure:
934 u n t i l f u l l y d is p er se d u nder a g i t a t i o n . I n a se p ar at e steam
j ac ke te d k e t t l e m e l t t h e
O i l
Phase . When f u l l y me l te d , add t h e
O i l Phase t o t h e Wa te r Phase unde r ag i t a t i o n . Then add t h e
Germaben
1 1 ,
t h e n t h e f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y add t h e TEA w i t h
h i g h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth. C oo l t o 130F and p ac ka ge .
I n a ste am j a c k e t e d k e t t l e h e a t t h e w a t e r and add t h e Carbomer
Sun Screen Stick
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Ross White Bleached Beeswax
Ross Pure Ref ine d C a n d e l i l l a Wax
Ross Pure # 1 Yellow Carnauba Wax
P e t r o l a t u m
IM
M i n e r a l
O i l
60/70
Ross Jojoba
O i
1
Amerscreen P
2 0 . 0
16.1
4.0
1 6 . 1
1 0 . 0
32 .6
1 . 2
9 . S .
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m ix ed c o o l t o 1 45F and p ac ka ge . ( N o t e :
Capping may be ne ce ss ar y) .
SOURCE:
F rank
0 .
R o s s
Co.,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e t o 170F un de r
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Sun
Care
Products
443
Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen
SPF 12 (Tested)
D er ma cr yl 79 p r o v i d e s w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e
p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e .
Incared ien ts :
Phase A :
Ceraphy l I C A
F i n s o l v TN
Emersol 132
M y r j 52s
Abi l 88852
C e t y l A l c o h o l
Cerasynt SD
Armeen
DM
18D
Dermacry l -79
T i o v e i l
F I N
Phase 8 :
De io ni zed Water
Carbomer 941 (2% Aq. Soln)
Methy lparaben
P ropy l pa raben
T r i e thano l am i ne (99% )
Phase C:
Germal l I I
Phase D:
Fragrance
%
w /w
7 . 0 0
2.00
2 .00
2.00
1
. o o
1
.OD
0 . 5 0
2 .0 0
2 .0 0
10.00
59.30
10.00
0.15
0.10
0.80
0.15
Q.S.
Procedure:
Combine Phase B and hea t t o 8OC. I n a sepa ra t e vesse l combine
Phase
A
excep t f o r D e rmac ryl - 79 and T i t a n i um D i o x i de and hea t
t o 8OC. S lo wl y s i f t i n Dermacry l -79 w i t h c on st an t s t i r r i n g u n t i l
c o m pl e te l y d i s s o lv e d . Add T i t a n iu m D io x i d e w i t h c o n st a nt s t i r r i n g
u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . Add Phase A t o Phase B a t 8OC and
m ix f o r
30
mi nu te s. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C and Phase D,
homogenize, co o l t o room tem per atu re and package.
SOURCE:
N a t i o n a l St a rc h and Chemical Co. : Formula 7023-24A
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444 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ult ra Vio le t Absorb ing Sunscreen
Veegum U l t r a , magnesium a lu min um s i l i c a t e , i s us ed t o
t h i c k e n and s t a b i l i z e t h i s s un scree n em ul si on . Two u l t r a
v i o l e t a b s o r b e rs a r e u s ed t o a c h i e v e an e s t i m a t e d SPF (Sun
P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r ) o f a p p ro x im a t el y 1 5 . T h i s smooth , f l ow ab l e
l o t i o n s prea ds e a s i l y and d r i e s q u i c k l y , l e a v i n g no n- tack y
a f t e r - f e e l .
I n g r e d i e n t :
A Veegum U l t r a (Magnes ium A luminum S i l i c a t e )
Dei o ni zed Water
% bv W t .
1 . 5 0
7 0 . 5 0
G l y c e r i n 5 . 5 0
B PEG-I50 D is te a ra te
D i o c t y l Mal a t e *
M i n e r a l O i l
C e t y l A1 coho1
Benzophenone-3
Octyl Dimethyl PABA
S t e a r e t h - 2
S tea re th -20
3 .00
2 . 0 0
4 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
3 . 0 0
7 . 0 0
0 . 9 0
2 .10
C
P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e 9 , s .
*Ceraphy l 45
Procedure:
Heat t h e wa te r t o
5 5 C .
S l o w l y add Veegum U l t r a t o t h e w a t e r
w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m ix er a t 700 rpm. I nc re as e t h e
mi xe r speed t o 1500-1700 rpm and mix f o r 30 m i n u t e s , m a i n t a i n i n g
t e m p e r a tu r e a t 55C. Add g l y c e r i n a nd m i x f o r
5
minu te s . M ix B
i n g r e d i e n t s an d h e a t t o 60C. Add
B
t o
A
w h i l e m i x i n g a t 1500-
1700 r p m . C o nt in u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s . A v oi d a i r e nt ra pm en t.
S lo w m i x i n g s peed t o 1000 rpm an d c o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g
t o 35C. Add C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package.
P ro du ct C h a r a c t e r t i s t i c s :
V i
s c o s i
t y : 5 0 0 0 6 0 0 0 cps
pH : 5 .0+ -0 .2
Comments:
t h e d ev elo pm en t o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e im provement o f e x i s t i n g
ones .
SOURCE: R.T . V a n d e r b i l t Co. , I n c . : Formula No. 4 4 8
T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o rm u l a i s des ign ed t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r
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Sun Care Products
445
Un-Buffered Self Tanning Cream
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a s o f t c ream t h a t c o u l d b e d is pe ns ed
f ro m a f l e x i b l e tu b e o r a j a r . The f o rm u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s
5%
D i hy d ro x y ac e to n e (DHA) as t h e s e l f t a n n i n g i n g r e d i e n t . The
f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a i n s no am ines t o r e a c t w i t h D i h yd ro xy a ce to n e.
The f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e a s i l y a nd e v e n l y a nd fo r ms a m o d e r a t el y
t h i c k f i l m a l l o w i n g maximum t a n c o l o r d e ve lo p me n t. The f i n i s h e d
p r o d u c t s h o u l d be s t o r e d away f ro m l i g h t a n d a t t e m p e r a tu r e
c o n d i t i o n s b e lo w 40C t o p r e v e n t DHA f r om deg rad i ng .
A . Deion ized Water
Methy lparaben (Lexgard M)
2,4 -D i ch lo ro benzy l A l coho l (Myac ide SP)
Pro pyle ne G ly co l USP
63 .10
0 .20
0 .20
1 - 0 0
8 . H y d r ox ye thy l ce l l u l os e (C e l l o s i ze QP-15,OOOH) 0 .4 0
C .
Gl yce ry l S tea ra te (Lexemu l 515 )
6.00
Gl yc er y l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul 501) 3 .00
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e xo l GT-865) 4 . 0 0
I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l BS) 2 -00
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P ) 0 .10
D .
Dihydroxyace tone
Deion ized Water
5 .00
15.00
Procedure:
1 .
Combine sec t i on A he a t i n g t o 75-80C. Use a p r o p e l l e r m i xe r
f o r a g i t a t i o n .
2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n BI1 i n t o s e c t i o n A . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g s pe ed
t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r in g a d d i t i o n , t he n s lo w t o h i g h es t
speed wh ich does no t p roduce a vor tex .
3 . Combine sec t i on
C .
H ea t t o 8 0-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s l o w
m i x i n g.
4. When sect ions A B and C a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d es ig -
n a t e d t e m p e r a tu r e s a dd s e c t i o n ' rC9 t t o s ec t i on s
A B .
I n c r e a s e
m i x i n g s pe ed t o a h i g h sp ee d. B e g in c o o l i n g . S lo w m i x i n g s pe ed
t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t
w i l l
n o t ca use v o r t e x i n g .
5 .
U s i ng g l oves , combi ne se c t i o n
D
and mix u n t i l c l e a r .
6 . A dd sec t i on IIDq' t o s ec t i on s
ABC
a t 35-40C. C on t i nue m i x i n g
7 .
A t 33-35C a d j u s t f o r w a t er l o s s .
8 .
M ix ba tc h u n t i l
i t
reaches 30.
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
V i s c o s i t y : 2 0 , 0 0 0 c P s @ 25C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA
I3
10 rpm)
pH: 5.0 @ 24C
a n d c o o l i n g .
24 hour sample
SOURCE:
I n o l e x C he mi ca l C o. : F o r m u l a t i o n
398-105-2
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446 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion
(with 8 Titanium Dioxide)
SPF
15
I n q r e d i e n t s : w
I s os te a r a t e (and ) H exy l Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 12.0
Cyc lometh i cone ( A b i l B 8839) 8 .0
Ce ty l D imet h i cone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 3 .0
Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 5
M i c r o c r y s t a l 1i e Wax 1 . o
M i n e r a l O i l 2 . 0
Phase
:
T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 8 . 0
Phase
C :
Water
6 0 . 0
Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5
Phase
D :
F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e s
Q.S.
1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . H eat t o 80C t o m e l t and
2 . Add t h e T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . D i s p e r se and m i l l t h e p i gmen t . C oo l
3 . Mix Phase C . Heat t o 50C. Add t o Phase A/B s l ow ly w i t h l ow
4 . Cool t o 35C. Add Phase D . Homogenize.
Phase
A :
C e t y l D im e th ic o ne C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4
d i sp er se t h e waxes . Coo l t o 60C.
t o 50C.
e ne rg y s t i r r e r . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .
W/O Sunscreen Lotion
SPF 22
I n g r e d i e n t s : w
Phase A :
C e t y l D im e th ic on e C o p o l y ol ( a nd ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4
Ce ty l D imet h i cone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o
O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e go s o ft OP)
1
. o
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 5 . 1
M i n e r a l O i l 1 . 5
Beeswax 1.2
Hydrogenated Castor
O i l
0 . 8
Phase :
O ct y l Methoxycinnamate 5 .0
T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e
5 .0
Cyc lometh icone (Ab i
1
B 8839) 4. 4
Phase C :
Water 69.2
Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8
P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S .
1. Heat Phase
A
t o 85C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e w axes.
2 . Cool Phase
A
t o
SOC.
Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e ne rg y
3 . R o l l e r
m i l l
t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i t an iu m D io x i de .
4 . Coo l t o 50C. 5 . Heat Phase C t o 50C. Add Phase C w h i l e
SOURCE: Go ld sc hmid t Chemical C orp .: Fo rm ul as BJS-1-45/GRH-2-37
I s os te a r a t e (and ) H exyl Lau r a te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a pp ea ra nc e a t a l l t i m e s .
m i x i n g .
6 .
Cool t o 35C and homogenize.
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Sun
Care
Products 447
Waterproof Sunscreen Gel (Tested SPF 30)
D e rm a cr yl LT p r o v i d e s w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e
p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e as w e l l as i mp ro ve d r u b - i n
p r o p e r t i e s .
I n s r e d i e n t s :
Anhydrous Ethanol
K l u c e l MF
Dermacry l -79
F i n s o l v
TN
Dow Cor n in g 344 F l u i d
Abi l 88852
Neo Hel iopan Type AV
Neo Hel iopan Type OS
Neo H e li op an Type BB
%w/w
65.50
1
. o o
1 . o o
10.00
3 .00
1 . 0 0
7.50
5 .00
6 .00
Procedure:
D i s so l ve H yd roxyp ropy l C e l l u l o se i n SD A l co ho l 40. When
c o m p le t e, s l o w l y s i f t i n D e r ma c ry l -7 9 . Combine r e m a i n in g
i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add t o a l c o h o l m i x t u r e . S t i r u n t i l u n i fo rm .
Formula 7761-133
Waterproof Sunscreen Spray Mist
SPF
16
(Tes ted)
D e rm a cr yl LT p r o v i d e s w a te r r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e
p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e .
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Phase
A :
Anhydrous Ethanol
Deion ized Water
T r i e thano l am i ne (99% )
Dermacry l -79
Phase B:
Neo He1 io pa n
AV
Neo Heliopan BB
Neo Hel iopan MA
DC 3 4 4 F l u i d
F i n s o l v TN
V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e
Phase
C:
Fragrance
64.20
5 .00
0 .30
1
.oo
7 .5 0
3 .00
3 .50
5.00
1 0 .0 0
0.50
Q.S.
Procedure:
Combine Phase A e xc e pt D e r m ac ry l- 79 . S l o w l y s i f t i n Derma-
c r y l - 7 9 . M i x u n t i l co m p le t e . Add Phase 8 . M ix u n t i l c o mp le te .
Add Phase
C .
M i x u n t i l c o m p le t e and pa ck ag e.
Formula 7172-44
SOURCE: N a t f o n a l S t a r c h and Chemfcal Co.: Suggested Formulas
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448 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterproof Sunscreen
W/O
Emulsion
SPF 22 (Static)
SPF 21 (W at er pr oo f)
I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w
Phase
A :
C e t y l D i meth i cone Copol yo1 (and) Po l yg l y ce ry l - 4
I s o s te a r a t e (and) H exyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 4 .0
Ce ty l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 2 .0
Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l 0 . 5
M ic ro c r ys ta l 1 e Wax 0 .5
Benzophenone-3 2.0
Oc ty l Methoxycinnamate 3 .0
Sesame O i l 1 . o
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e go s o ft P) 3 . 0
C yc l ome th i cone (A b i l B 8839) 4 . 0
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t
OS)
3 . 0
O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o ft OP) 2 . 5
Phase B :
Water 73.4
S od i um C h l o r i de
0 . 5
Po ly qu at er ni um-1 0 0 . 3
Germaben I 1 0 . 3
1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o
i n co rp o r a t e t h e waxes. C oo l t o 50C.
2. Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w en er gy
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a pp ea ra nc e a t a l l t i m e s .
3 . Coo l t o 35C w i t h sweep mi xe r . Add f r ag ra nc e . 4 . Homogen ize.
Waterproof Sunscreen W/O-Emulsion
SPF 15
I n g r e d i e n t s :
%w/w
I s o s t e a r a te (and) H exyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 4 .0
C et y l D ime th icone ( A b i l Wax 9801)
1
. o
Pol y e t h y l ene Wax 0. 5
Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l
0 . 5
O ct y l Methoxyc i nnamate 3 . 0
Sesame O i l 1 . o
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e go s o ft P) 2 . 0
Cyc lometh i cone ( A b i l B 8839) 4 . 0
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 3 .0
O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 2 . 5
I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T eg o so f t M ) 1
. o
C12-15
A 1
ky l B enzoa te
2 . 5
Phase B:
Water 73.9
S od i um C h l o r i de
0 . 5
P o l y q u a t e r n iurn-1 0 0 . 3
Germaben I 1 0 . 3
1. Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o
i n co rp o r a t e t h e waxes. C oo l t o 50C.
2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add 8 t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e ne rg y
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a pp ea ra nc e a t a l l t i m e s .
3 . .C oo l t o 35C w i t h sweep mi xe r . Add f ra gra nce . 4 . Homogen ize.
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Formulas BAM-2-l/BAM-2-15
Phase A :
C e t y l D i m et h ic o n e C o p ol y ol ( a n d) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4
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Sun Care Products 449
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base
SPF
3.5
I n a r e d i e n t s :
?&&
Phase A:
C e t y l D i m e th i co n e C o p ol y ol ( an d) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4
I s o s t e a r a t e (a nd ) H ex yl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0
M i n e r a l O i l 5 . 0
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o so f t
OS)
6 . 0
C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) 4.0
Ce ty l D imeth i cone ( A b i l Wax
9801)
1 . o
I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e go s o ft
M )
4.0
Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l
0 . 8
M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax
1 . 2
Phase 8:
Water
72.2
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
0 . 8
P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S
Phase
C:
Fragrance Q.S
Procedure:
1. Add t h e components o f Phase A . He at w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C
2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w en er gy
3 . Coo l t o 35C w i t h sweep mi xe r . Add f ra gr an ce .
4. Homogeni ze .
Formulat ion BJS-1-47
t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o
50C.
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y ap pea ran ce a t a l l t i m e s .
Waterproof
W/O
Sunscreen Lotion Base
SPF 3.7
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Phase
A :
C e t y l D i m et h ic o n e C o p ol y ol ( a nd ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4
Iso-
s t e a r a t e (a nd ) H ex yl L a u r a t e ( A b i l
WE-09)
5 .0
M i n e r a l O i l 5 . 4
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS ) 6 . 4
C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) 4.3
C et y l D imet h icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o
I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e go so f t
M)
4 . 3
Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l 0 . 8
M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 . 2
Phase
8 :
Water 70.8
S od i um C h l o r i de
0 . 8
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
Q.S
Phase
C :
Fragrance Q.S
Procedure:
1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i ng t o 80C t o
i n co rp o r a t e t h e waxes. C oo l t o 50C.
2. Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l ow l y w i t h a l ow energy
mi xe r . Ma in ta in a smooth
m i
1 ky appearance a t a1 1 t i m es .
3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep mix er . Add f rag rance . 4 . Homogenize.
Formulat ion BJS-1-15
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemica l Corp. : Suggested For mu lat i ons
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45
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion
SPF 21
I nc ir ed i en t s :
Phase A :
C e t y l D i m e th i co n e C o p ol yo l ( a nd ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4
I s os te a r a t e (and ) H exyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0
M i n e r a l O i l 5 .3
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 4 . 2
C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l
B 8839)
4 .2
I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T eg o so f t
M)
4 . 2
Almond O i 1 2 .0
Hydrogenated Cas to r
O i l
0.8
M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 . 2
Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate
3 . 0
Phase B :
Water 69.3
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
0 . 8
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
Q.S.
Phase
C :
Fragrance Q . S .
Procedure:
1 .
Add t h e components o f Phase
A .
Hea t w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o
2. Heat Phase
B
t o
50C.
Add
B
t o
A
s l o w l y w i t h a l o w en er gy
3 . Coo l t o 35C w i t h sweep mixe r . Add f ra gra nc e .
4. Homogeni ze .
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Co ol t o
50C.
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y ap pe ar an ce a t a l l t i m e s .
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion
SPF
15
Ing r e d i e n t
s
Phase A :
C e t y l
D i
me thi cone Copol yo1 (A bi 1
EM - 9 0 )
2 . 0
M i n e r a l
O i l 5 . 9
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t O S ) 4 . 7
C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) 4 .7
Ce ty l D imeth ico ne ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o
I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T eg o so f t
M )
4 . 7
Almond O i 1 2.0
Hydrogenated Cas to r
O i l
0 . 8
M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 . 2
Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate 3 .0
Phase B :
Water 69.2
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
0.8
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
Q.S.
Phase C :
Fragrance
Q . S .
Procedure:
1 .
Add t h e components o f Phase
A .
Heat w h i l e m i x in g t o
8OC
t o
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e w axes. C ool t o
50C.
2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e ne rg y
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y ap pe ar an ce a t a l l t i m e s .
3 .
Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep mixe r . Add f ra gra nc e .
4.
Homogenize.
SOURCE:
Goldschmi d t Chemical Corp. : Formulas
BJS-1-35/BJS-1-53
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Sun
Care
Products 451
Waterproof W/O Sun Protection Lotion
SPF 1 7
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Phase
A :
Ce ty l D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l EM-90) 2 .0
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( T e go s o ft CT)
4 . 0
O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 5 . 5
Hydrogenated Castor
O i l 0 . 4
S y n t h e t i c Wax o r Beeswax 0 . 6
C yc l ome th i cone (A b i l
B
8839) 7 . 0
Ce ty l D ime th i cone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o
Oc ty l Methoxycinnamate 5 .0
Benzophenone-3 1 . 5
M enthy l A n t h r a n i l a t e 3 . 0
Phase
B :
Water 73.9
Sodium C h l o r i de 0 . 6
P r e s e r v a t i v e s
Q . S .
Fragrance Q.S.
Procedure:
1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o
2. Heat Phase
6
t o 50C. Add B t o
A
s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e ne rg y
3 . Coo l t o 35C w i t h sweep mixe r . Add f r ag ra nc e .
4 . Homoaeni ze ,
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. C ool t o 50C.
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a pp ea ra nc e a t a l l t i m e s .
-
Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion
(with 8 Titanium Dioxide)
SPF
12
I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w
Phase
A :
C e t y l
D i
me th i cone Copol yo1 (A bi
1
EM-90) 2.0
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t
O S )
1 3 . 6
C yc l ome th i cone (A b i l B 8839) 9 . 1
Ce ty l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 3 . 0
Hydrogenated Castor
O i l 0 . 5
M i c r o c r y s t a l 1i e Wax 1 . o
M i n e r a l O i l 2 . 3
Phase B:
T i ta n iu m D i o x i d e 8 . 0
Phase
C :
Water 6 0 . 0
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
0 . 5
Phase D :
F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S .
Procedure:
1 . Combine th e i ng re d i en ts o f Phase A . H ea t t o 80C t o m e l t and
2 . Add t h e T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . D i s p e r s e and
m i l l
t h e p i g m e n t .
3. Mix Phase
C .
Heat t o 50C. Add t o Phase
A / B
s l o w l y w i t h l ow
4 . Cool t o 35C. Add Phase
D .
Homogenize.
SOURCE:
Goldschmidt Chemica l Corp. : Formula
BJS-1-43/BJS-1-33
d i s pe rse t h e waxes . C oo l t o 60C.
Coo l t o 50C.
energy s t i r r e r . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .
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452 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Water Resistant Sunscreen
A
Veegum Pro
Water
B G l y c e r i n
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
C
Amerscreen
P
C e t y l a l c o h o l
S t e a r i c a c i d
X X X
SS4267 F l u i d
I s o p r o p y l m yr i s t a t e
Synchrowax AW1 C
Cerasyn t MN
% B y Weiqht
1
. o
8 3 . 2
1 . 5
0 . 6
4 . 0
0 . 8
2 . 0
4 . 0
2 . 0
0 . 4
0 . 5
P r e s e rv a t i v e q . s .
P rocedure :
w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h ea r . M i x u n t i l smooth.
Add B t o
A
w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth. M a i n t a i n A/B a t
7 0 t o 75C; hea t C t o 7 0 t o 75C. Add C t o
A / B
and m ix u n t i l
c o o l .
Cons i s tenc y :
Medi um v i s c o s i
t y
1 o t i on .
Suggested Packaging: Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e s .
Comments: Veegum PRO e f f e c t i v e l y s t a b i l i z e s t h e em uls ion
Heat t h e wate r t o 70 t o 75C, the n s lo w ly add th e Veegum
PRO
even a t e le v a te d t em p er at ur es . T h i s l o t i o n , u s i n g s i l i c o n e
f l u i d t o p r o v i d e an e m o l l i e n t wa te r r e s i s t a n t p r o t e c t i v e
b a r r i e r , i m p a r t s a n o n- g re a sy f e e l . The A me rs cr ee n P a t 4%
p r o v i de s an e s t im a t e d Sun P r o t e c t i o n f a c t o r o f
8 .
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o. , I n c . : F o r m u la t io n
N o .
418
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Sun
Care
Products 453
Water Resistant Sunscreen
R e s u l t i n g p ro d uc t i s a v i sc o us sun scree n l o t i o n
d isp ense d f r o m a f l e x i b l e t ub e o r s o f t b o t t l e . The
e x h i b i t s e x c e p t i o n a l w at er r e s i s t a n c e w hi ch i s con
Lexo rez 100. The f o rmu l a ap p l i e s ea s i l y and l eaves
f i l m on t h e s k i n . The su ns cr ee n a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t
Methoxycinnamate . The SPF va lu e o f t h e fo rm u l a t i on
A . Deion ized Water
P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP
Methy lparaben (Lexgard M )
T e t rasod i um EDTA (Hamp-ene Ma4)
8 . Carbomer (C ar bo po l ETD 2055)
C .
Sodium H yd ro xi de (10% w/w)
D . Gl yc e r y l S te a r a t e (Lexemu l 515)
which can be
f o r m u l a t i o n
r i
bu ted by
a non-greasy
s O c t y l
i s unknown.
&&
71 .45
7 . 5 0
0 .20
0 . 0 5
0 . 1 5
OS
G ly ce ry l S t ea ra te (and) PEG-100 S t ea ra te (Lexemul 561)
C e t y l A l c o h o l NF
Aluminum S ta rch O c te ny l suc c ina te (Dry F lo -PC)
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e xo l GT-865)
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (a nd ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e
Tocopherol (Copherol F-1300)
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P )
Oc ty l Methoxyci nnamate (E sc a l o l 557)
G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e C ro ss po ly me r
( a nd ) I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l 3 9 75 )
(Lexorez 100)
4.00
1 - 0 0
0 .50
1 - 0 0
3.00
1 - 0 0
0 . 0 5
0 . 1 0
8 . 0 0
2 *
00
Procedure:
1 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase A and he at t o 75-8OC.
A g i t a t e a t l o w sp ee d.
2 . Slowly add phase B t o phase
A .
A g i t a t e a t a h i g h e r speed
u n t i l a l l Carbomer i s f u l l y d i sp er se d.
3. Combine phase D i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 80-85C.
Add phase "0"
t o
phase "AB". M i x f o r f i v e mi nu te s and s t a r t
t o c o o l .
4 .
A t 45C a d j u s t f o r w a te r l o s s . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Then
a d j u s t f o r v i s c o s i t y u s i ng 10% NaOH (9,50 0t-50 0 cps u s i n g
s p i n d l e # 6 @ 50rpm, 25C). The f i n a l p ro duc t has a pH o f
a p p r o x i m a t e l y
6 .0 .
SOURCE: I n o l e x C hemical C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n 383-208
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454
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
W O SPF15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew
I n g r ed ie n t s / T r ad e Name: %_by Weigh t
P a r t A :
D i
-
( Ch ol e s t e r y l
,
beheny l
,
o c t y l d o d e c y l )
N-La uroy l -L -g lu ta mic a c i d es te r /E ldew CL-301
Oct y ld ode cy l Neopentanoa te /E le fac 1 -205
D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) T r i m e t h y ls i o x y s i 1 c at e /D o w C o r n i n g 593
P ropy l pa raben
Methy lparaben
Ph e n o x y e th a n o l /Eme re s s e n c e 1160
Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40
Octy l Methoxyc innamate /Parso l MCX
P a r t 8 :
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e
P a r t
C :
Deion ized Water
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
Sodi urn P C A / A j ew N-50
P a r t i a l l y D e a c e t yl a t e d C h i t i n ( 1 O %) /M ar in e Dew
P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l
Copol yo1 (a nd ) Hex yl La ur at e/ Ab i 1 WE09
2 .00
10.00
0 .50
0.05
0.15
0 . 6 0
4.00
7 . 5 0
5 0 0
61.40
0 . 8 0
1 . o o
2.00
5 . 0 0
Procedure
:
P r e - m e l t p a r t A a t
50
d eg re es C e n t i g r a d e. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A .
P r e m i x p a r t
C
u n t i l homogeneous. S l ow l y add p a r t
C
i n t o p a r t
A
and B m i x t u r e w i t h h i g h s h ea r m i x i n g .
Appearance: Wh i te , smooth, sh in y l o t i o n . pH: 6 .0 -6 . 5
V i s c o s i t y : 10,000-20,000 (RVT#6
I3
lOrpm @ 25 degrees C)
Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew
I ng red ien t /T rade Name: % by Weiqht
P a r t
A :
Carnauba/Carnauba Wax #1 Yellow
4 . 0 0
Ozok er i te /O zo ke r i t e Wax JH1680 4.00
Propy lparaben 0 .15
Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroy l G lu tamate /
P a r t B :
C as to r O i l 26.55
PPG-3 Hydrogenated Cas tor Oi l / H e t e s t e r
HCP
15.00
G l y c e ry l T r i a c e t y l
H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e / H e t e s t e r
HCA 15.00
Octy l Methoxyc innamate /Parso l MCX 7 .50
Benzophenone-3/Uvinul
M-40 5 .00
T ocophe ry l A ce ta te /V i t am i n E A c e t a t e 0 . 6 0
P a r t C :
Procedure:
a l l s o l i d s a r e c o m pl e te l y d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s .
M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Co ol t o 65 d eg re es C e n t i g r a d e . Add P a r t C .
M ix w e l l . F i l l .
SOURCE:
Ajinornoto USA, I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
S y n t h e t i c Beesw ax/Syn thet ic Beeswax JH-1508 10.00
Eldew CL-301 10 .0 0
O c t y l S a l
i
y1a t e / U vi n u l
0-1 8 2 . 0 0
B i s a b o l o l ( S y n t h e t i c ) 0 .2 0
H ea t P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80 deg ree s C en t ig r a de . M ix u n t i l
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Sun Care Products 455
W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen wi th Aj idew and Eldew
I n a r ed i en t s /T ra de Name: % by W e i a
P a r t A :
O i ( C h o l e s t e r y l , b e he n yl , o c t y l d e d e c y l ) N -L a ur oy l - L -
Oc t y ldo dec y l Neopentanoa te /E le fac 1 -205
Oimethicone(and)Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Qow
C o r n i n g
593
Propy lparaben
Methy lparaben
Phenoxyethano l /Emeressence
1
160
Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40
Octy l Methoxyc innamate /Parso l
MCX
P ar t B :
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( an d) C e t y l O im et hi co ne
g l u tam i c a c i d es te r / E l dew CL-301
Cop oly o l (and) Hexy l L au ra te /A bi l WE09
P a r t C :
Deion ized Water
Sod ium Ch lo r ide
Sodium PCA/Ajidew N-50
P a r t i a l l y Q e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n ( 1 . O% )/M ar in e Dew
Pr op yl ene G1 y c o l
Procedure:
2 .00
10.00
0 . 5 0
0.05
0 . 1 5
0.60
4.00
7 . 5 0
5 .00
61.40
0 . 8 0
1 . o o
2 .00
5 .00
P r e - m e l t p a r t A a t 50 degrees C en t i g rad e . Add p a r t B t o p a r t
A . P r e m i x p a r t C u n t i l homogeneous. S l ow l y add p a r t C i n t o p a r t
A
and
B
m i x t u r e w i t h h i g h s h ea r m i x i n g .
Appearance: Wh i te , smooth, sh i ny l o t i o n pH: 6 .0 -6 . 5
V iscos i t y : 10 ,000-20 ,000 (RVT #6 @
10
rpm
@
25 degrees
C )
Procedure:
a l l s o l i d s a r e co m p le t el y d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s .
M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Co ol t o 65 de gr ee s C e n t i g r a d e . Add P a r t
C .
M ix w e l l . F i l l .
SOURCE:
Aj inomoto USA,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n
Heat Par t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80 d eg re es Ce n t i g ra d e . M ix u n t i l
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56
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O
Sunscreen Lotion
SPF-18
I n s r e d i e n t s : %w/w
Phase A :
C e t y l D im e th ic on e C o p o l y ol ( a n d ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4
I s os te a r a t e (and ) H exy l Lau r a te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0
Ce ty l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o
O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 4 . 5
Cyc lometh icone ( A b i l B 8 8 3 9 ) 5 . 5
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e go s o ft CT) 3 .0
Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 4
S y n t h e t i c Wax 0 . 6
Oc ty l Methoxyc innamate 5 . 0
M en th yl A n t h r a n i l a t e 3 . 0
Phase B :
Water 69 .7
Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8
P r e s e r v a t i es Q S
Procedure:
1 .
Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 85C t o
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. C oo l t o 50C.
2 . Heat Phase
B
t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e ne rg y
m i x e r , M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a pp ea ra nc e a t a l l t i m e s .
3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep mi xe r . Add f r ag ra nc e . 4 . Homogen ize.
Formula GRH-2-31
Benzophenone-3
1 . 5
W/O Suns creen L ot ion
SPF-17
I n s r e d i e n t s :
%w/w
Phase A :
C e t y l D i meth i cone Copo l yo1 (and) Po l y g l yc er y l -4 -
I s os te a r a t e (and ) H exy l Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0
Ce ty l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9814) 3 . 0
O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t
O S )
1 2 . 0
C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l 8 8839) 8 .0
M i n e r a l
O i l
2 . 0
Hydrogenated Castor O i l
0 . 5
M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 . o
Phase
B :
T i an ; um D i o x i d e 8 . 0
Phase C :
Water 59.7
Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8
P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S
Procedure:
1 . Heat Phase
A
t o 85C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e w axes.
2 . Cool Phase A t o 50C. Add 8 t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w en er gy
3 . R o l l e r m i l l t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i ta n iu m D io x id e .
4 . C oo l t o 50C.
5. Heat Phase
C
t o 50C. Add Phase
C
w h i l e m i x i n g .
6 . Cool t o 35C and homogenize.
Formula GRH-2-33
SOURCE: Goldschmid t Chemical C orp . : Sugges ted For mu l a t i o ns
m i x e r , M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a pp ea ra nc e a t a l l t i m e s .
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Section XII
Miscel laneous
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458
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Formula :
1 -Men thol
SDA
39C
Tween 60
A l o e M o i s t
Aloe Medicated Gel
With Alcohol
SDA
39C)
6 . 0 0
8 .00
3.00
83.00
Per 20009
120.00
160.00
60.00
1660.00
Procedure ( Wi th a l c o h o l , SDA
39C):
1 . Add A lo e M o is t t o l a r g e be ak er . F i t w i t h s t i r r e r .
2 . I n a s e p a ra t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x t h e m e n t h o l , a l c o h o l and Tween
3 . W i t h s low -medium a g i t a t i o n a dd t h e m i x t u r e t o t h e Al o e M o i s t
4. S t i r u n t i l a m i l k y wh i t e a nd homogeneous.
5 . F i l l i n t o HDPE j a r s .
and s t i r u n t i l c l e a r .
Aloe Medicated Gel
Without Alcohol
Formula :
1
-Menthol
Tween 60
A l o e M o i s t
3% Ca rb op ol 940
TEA
FDC
Ye l lo w 5, 1%
FDC B lu e 1 , 1%
3.00
12.00
79.70
5 .00
0.30
q s
q s
Per 759
2.259
9 .
oog
59.789
3.759
0 .2259
2
drops
2
drops
P r oc e du r e ( W i t h o u t a l c o h o l ) :
1 .
Mi x 1-mentho l and Tween 60 to g et h er and hea t t o about 45C.
2 .
Hea t A l o e M o i s t t o 55-58C - add c o l o r s .
3 .
Add t h e menthol/Tween m ix t o t h e A l o e M o is t w i t h s t i r r i n g .
4 .
Add t h e 3% Carbopo l 940 and mix w e l l .
5 . Add t h e TEA and mix w e l l ,
6 . C oo l t o room temp w i t h s lo w a g i t a t i o n .
SOURCE:
T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c , : S u gge sted F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Miscellaneous
459
Cetylpyridinium Chloride Mouthwash
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A C e t y l p y r i d i n i u m c h l o r i d e , NF
C i t r i c A c id ,
USP
Pepperm in t o i 1 ,
USP
Euca lyp tus o i 1 , NF
C lo ve o i l , USP
Tween
60
A l c o h o l , USP
B *Co lo r
Sorbo, S o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n ,
USP
Wa t e r , d e i o n i z e d
0.10
0.10
0 . 0 7
0 . 0 2
0.05
0 .30
1 0 . 0 0
20 .00
69 .36
* q . s .
t he se i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure :
D i s so lv e t h e c e t y l p y r i d i n i u m c h l o r i d e and c i t r i c a c i d i n
w a t er . Add t h e p ep pe rm in t o i l , e u ca l yp t us o i l a nd c l o v e o i l
t o t h e Tween 20 . Add t h e a l c o h o l s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n a nd add
t h e w a t er m i x t u r e . Add t h e S or bo , w a t e r and c o l o r t o make t h e
d e s i r e d v o l u m e .
Spearmint Mouthwash
I n n r e d i e n t s :
A Tween 60, p o l y s o rb a t e 6 0
Spearmi n t f 1a v o r o i 1
6
A r l a s o l v e
DM I
Ethano l (190 p r o o f )
Sodi um s a c c h a r i n USP
Sodi um b en z oa te
C Water
0 .32
0 . 2 4
10.00
1 0 . 0 0
69.14
0.10
0.20
D S orb o, 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n 10.00
Procedure :
w e l l . A d d
( D )
t o
( C ) ,
m i x w e l l . Add
(CD)
t o (AB) and m ix w e l l .
Formula
PC
8207
SOURCE: IC1
Su r f a c t a n t s : Sug ge st ed Fo rm u l a t i o n s
M i x ( A) w e l l . M i x (B ) w e l l . Add (B ) t o ( A ) , m ix w e l l . M i x
C )
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46 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear
Gel
without DEA
p ro du ce a m ic r oe m u ls i on g e l w hi ch e x h i b i t s c l a r i t y and p os se ss es
a manageable s e t p o i n t ( 80 C) , u s i n g p o t a s s i u m h y d r o x i d e i n p l a c e
o f
t h e
DEA.
Lower e t h o x y l a t e s l i k e t h e Vol po s a nd Cro d a fo s e s us ed
h e re a r e t h e e m u l s i f i e r s o f c h o ic e f o r c l e a r g e l f o r m u la t io n s ,
s i n ce l e s s e t h o x y l a t e d m a t e r i a1
s
have been shown t o cause l e s s
i r r i t a t i o n . The p ow er fu l e m u l s i f y i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t he se e s t e rs
y i e l d an e xt r em el y e f f i c i e n t system i n wh ich a 1 : l r a t i o o f
e m u 1 s i f i e r : o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n i s a ch ie ve d - a b a l a n c e t h a t m i ni m -
i z e s i r r i t a t i o n p o t e n t i a l and o p t i m i ze s g el f o r m at io n .
I n n r e d i e n t s :
P a r t A :
Dei on i zed Water 52.6
P r o p y l en e G l y c o l 1 2 . 0
P a r t 8 :
Volpo
3
( O l e t h - 3 ) 7 . 0
Vo l po 5 (O l e t h -5 ) 4 .0
Crod afos N3A (O le th -3 Phosphate)
2.0
Crodafos
N l O A
(O le th -10 Phospha te ) 4 . 0
M i n e r a l
O i l
(7Ossu) 17.0
P a r t
C:
KOH
(25% Aq. S o ln . ) 1 .4
Procedure :
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t
B
w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 9 0-95C.
Add Part
C
t o P ar t
A
w i t h m i x i n g . Add P a r t
A /C
t o P a r t 0 w i t h
m i x i n g u s i n g a p r o p e l l e r b l a d e m i x e r . A v o id a e r a t i o n a s much a s
p o s s i b l e . Cool t o d e s i r e d
f i
11 t e m p e r a tu r e , c o o l i n g a t a
PC/mi
n
r a t e . S et p o i n t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C.
Formula CG-25
T h i s f o rm u la c o n t a i n s no d ie th a no la m in e , y e t i s a b l e t o
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g a nd h e a t t o 90-Q 5C.
E m u 1 si f i e r : O i l R a t i o : 1 : l
Set Po in t : 80C
Silicone Emulsion
Th i s p ro d u c t u es e I n c ro q u a t Be he ny l
TMS
t o fo rm a s t a b le
e m ul si on ( 1 month 50C), s p e c i f i c a l l y w i t h F l u i d
200 (200
c s )
b u t a l s o s u i t a b l e f o r o t h e r s i l i c o n e f l u i d s , f o r V o l a t i l e
S i
1i
one and d i me th i cone
I n a r e d i e n t s :
P a r t A :
Dei on i zed Water 72.0
Inc roqua t Beheny l TMS (Behen t r imon iu rn Me thosu l fa te
( a nd ) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 7 . 0
S i 1 one F1 u i d (2OOcps) 20.0
P a r t 0 :
Germaben
I1
1
. o
Procedure :
Cool
t o
40C w i t h m i x i n g and add Pa r t
B.
Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o
d e s i r e d
f i
11 tempera tu re .
Formula SC-231
SOURCE:
Croda In c . : Suggested Formu la t i ons
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t
A
w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 80-85C.
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Miscellaneous 461
Clear Ringing Gel
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A
M i n e r a l o i 1 , C a r n a t i o n b r a n d
B r i j 93
A r l
as o l ve 200L
B
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
Sorbo
Wate r , de ion i zed
11 . o o
6 .0 0
27.80
5 .0 0
7 . 0 0
43.20
Procedure :
m od era te s t i r r i n g . Remove f r om h ea t a nd c o n t i n u e t o s t i r as
t h e m i x t u r e c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r ( a b ou t 65C)
pour i n t o tu be s o r j a r s .
Heat (A ) t o 9OC and
E )
t o 95C. Add 6 ) t o ( A) w i t h
Clear Ringing Gel
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A
Ar l a m o l
E
M i n e r a l o i 1 , C a r n a t io n b r a nd
Br i j
93
A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0 L
B
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
Sorbo
Wate r , de ion i zed
5.00
6 .00
6.00
27.80
5 . 0 0
7.00
43.20
Procedure :
Heat (A ) t o 9OC and
6 )
t o 95C. Add
6 )
t o ( A) w i t h m o de ra te
s t i r r i n g . Remove f ro m he at and c o n t i nu e t o s t i r as t h e m i x t u r e
c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r ( a b ou t 65C) p o u r i n t o t u b e s
o r j a r s .
Formula PC
8180
Clear Gel Base
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A r l
a s o l v e
DM I
H y ro x yp ro p yl c e l l u l ose
W W
96,OO
4.00
Procedure :
S lo w ly s p r i n k l e t h e h yd ro xy pr op yl c e l l u l o s e i n t h e A r l a s o l v e
DM I
as you r a p i d l y a g i t a t e . S t i r u n t i l c l e a r .
A
g e l w i l l f o r m
upon s t a n d i n g . Gel s t r e n g t h v a r i e s w i t h t h i c k e n e r c o n c e n t r a t i o n
A c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s s ho ul d be d i s s o lv e d i n A r la s o l v e
DM I
p r i o r
t o
a d d i t i o n o f h yd ro xy pr op y l c e l l u l o s e .
SOURCE: IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge sted F o r m u l a t i o n s
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462 Cosm etic and Toile@ Formulations
Cream Sachet
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A A r l a c e l 165
Spermacet i
C e t y l a l c o h o l
I s o p r op y l m y r i s t a t e
Wate r, de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
0
A t l a s
G - 2 1 6 2
C Fragrance
q . s .
t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s
w/w
1 6 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
3 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
59.00
10 . 00
Procedure :
m o de ra t e b u t t h o ro u g h a g i t a t i o n . Add (C ) a t 45C.
S t i r
u n t i l
room te mp er at ur e and package.
Heat (A) t o 75C. Heat
( € 3 )
t o 77C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l ow l y w i t h
Liquid Cologne
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Perfume o i l
Tween 2 0
Water
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q .
s
t h e s e n g r e d i e n t s
w/w
5 . 0 0
21 . 5 0
73,50
Procedure :
t h e w a t er a nd add p r e s e r v a t i v e .
S t i r
u n t i l a c l e a r p r od uc t
r e s u l t s .
M ix t h e pe r fume o i l and Tween
2 0 .
S lo w ly add t h i s m i x t u r e t o
Solid ologne
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A
S t e a r i c a c id , t r i p l e p ressed 5 . 0 0
Sorbo
2 .00
A1 coho1 SD 40 8 3 . 0 0
B Sodium h y d r o x id e t o s a p o n i f y t h e 5% s t e a r i c a c i d
Wa t e r , d e i o n i z e d
5 . 0 0
C
P erfu me o i l 5 .0 0
Procedure :
Add (C) a t 55-6OC. Pour i n t o hea te d mo lds . Cool s l o w ly t o
p r e v e n t f o r m a t i o n of a i r p o ck et s and t o a c hi ev e t h e g r e a t e s t
t r a n s l u c e n c y . Unmold, wrap i n f o i l and package i n a i r t i g h t
c o n t a i n e r s .
SOURCE: IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat ( A ) t o 65C and ( B ) t o 70C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
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Miscellaneous 463
High-Luster Toothpaste
I n g r e d i e n t s :
P a r t
A :
( 1 ) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n )
(2 ) De ion i zed Wate r
P a r t
0 :
( 3 ) K a o p o l i t e
SF
( 4 )
D i
c a l c i um Phospha te D ih yd ra te
( 5 )
S o d i u m L a u r y l S u l f a t e
( 6 )
C a rb o xy m et hy l C e l l u l o s e ( medium v i s c o s i t y )
( 7 ) Tr im ag ne si um Phosph ate
( 8 ) K o r t h i x
H
( 9 )
So di um Sa cc h ar i n
(10)Methy l Paraben
( 11 )P ro py l Paraben
P a r t C :
( 1 2 ) F l a v o r i n g
i l
bv Wei a h t
30.00
17.52
24.25
24.25
2 . 0 0
0.80
0.50
0 .25
0 . 2 0
0 . 1 8
0 .05
q . s .
Procedure :
M i x ( 1 ) and ( 2 ) . I n a s e p ar a te c o n t a i n e r , t h o r o u g h l y d r y -
b l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s ( 3 ) t h ro u gh ( 1 1 ) . Add P a r t 8 s l o w l y t o P a r t
A .
M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add P a r t
C, m i l l
t w i c e a n d d e a e r a t e .
each p roduc t used .
F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f
Denture Cleaner
I n g r e d i e n t s :
( 1 ) De i o n i z e d Wat er
( 2 ) K o r t h i x
H
( 3 ) C a rb o xy m et hy l C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y )
( 4 ) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n )
( 5 ) G l y c e r i n
( 6 )
Sodi urn S a cc ha ri n
( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e 1147
( 8 ) S odium L a u r y l S u l f a t e
9 )
F l a v o r , P r e s e r v a t i v e
&
C o l o r a n t
bv We iah t
30.8
1 . 5
0 . 5
10 .0
10 .0
0 . 2
45.0
2.0
q s
Procedure :
a t h i g h s he ar u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) ,
( 5 1 ,
and
( 6 ) .
S l o w l y add ( 7 ) and c o n t i n u e t o m ix u n t i l w e l l
d is per sed . Then add
( 8 ) .
Add
(9 )
and
m i l l
t w i c e a nd d e a e r a te .
F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r
o f
each p roduc t used .
SOURCE:
K a o p o l f t e , I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a ti o n s
M i x ( 2 ) i n t o ( 1 ) w i t h h i g h s he ar . Add
( 3 )
a nd c o n t i n u e m i x i n g
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464
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hydrophilic
O/W
Ointment Base
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
8 P r o p yl e ne g l y c o l
P e t r o l a t u m
M y r j 5 2
Methy l pa raben
&
p r o p y l p a r a b e n
Wa t e r, d e i o n i z ed
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A) w i t h
Procedure :
a g i t a t i o n .
S t i r
u n t i l s e t .
Emollient Anhydrous Ointment
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Ar l amo l E
A r l a c e l 1 8 6
Procedure :
t e m p e r a t u r e .
G-1726
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l l i q u i d and s t i r u n t i l room
W/O
Ointment Base
I n g r e d i e n t s :
P e t r o l a t u m
A r l a c e l 8 3, s o r b i t a n se sq u
Procedure :
Heat (A) t o 70C and
( B )
m o de r at e, b u t t h o r o u g h a g i
o l e a t e
t o 72C. Add (B)
a t i o n . S t i r u n t
gdJvJ
25 .00
25.00
12 .00
5 . 0 0
0 . 4 0
32.60
10.00
40.00
50.00
? bJJ
5 4 . 0 0
6 . 0 0
t o (A) s l ow l y w i t h
1 room te mp er a t ur e .
Washable Anhydrous Base
I n g r e d i e n t s : gdJvJ
Pe t ro l a t u m 9 5 . 0 0
Tween 61 o r Tween 81 o r M y r j 52 5.0 0
Procedure :
t e m p e r a t u r e .
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l l i q u i d and s t i r u n t i l room
Washable Anhydrous Base
I n g r e d i e n t s :
H y d r o p h i l i c P e t r o l a tu m ,
Tween 60
Procedure :
H ea t a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s
t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s
U.S .P .
u n t i l l i q u i d and
Suggested Formu
50 .00
50.00
s t i r u n t i l room
a t i
ons
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Miscellaneous
465
Jojoba Massage Oil
M i n e r a l
O i l
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
Coconut
O i l
76
J o j o b a O i l
Almond O i 1 Sweet
Ace t u 1an
Glucam
P-20
Dow Cor n i ng S i 1i one
V i t a m i n
E
344
61.5
24.0
5.0
2.0
2.0
2.0
. o
2.0
0.5
Fragrance
q . s .
Procedure :
Load a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o
a
s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e . Warm
s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r w i t h a g i t a t i o n , add Frag ran ce and package.
Massage Oil
S o l u l a n
P
B
5
Dow Corn i ng S i . l i c on e
344
Emerest
2314
Drakeo l
9
Coconut
O i l
E s c a l o l 507
Ross J o j o b a
O i
1
Perfume Nova Rome DE
51
3 . 0
16.0
13.0
31
. O
31 . O
3.0
3.0
q . s .
Procedure :
u nd er a g i t a t i o n and p ac ka ge .
SOURCE:
Frank
8 Ross
Co . ,
I n c . : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Load a l l i n g r ed i e n t s i n t o a v e s se l . Warm s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r
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466 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Micro-Emulsions with Aloe Vera and d-Limonene
The f o l 1o wi ng f or m u la s a r e c l e a r ,
m i
c ro e mu l s i ons
o f
d -L i monene
and A l oe Vera . They re p r es en t th e range o f d -Limonene and A l oe
Vera c o n c e n t ra t i o n s c ommonly u s ed a s d e g re a s i n g s o l v e n t c l e a n e r s .
These f o r m u l a s a r e g e n e r a l l y u se d by d i l u t i n g i n w a te r ( 1- >1 6
o z . / g a l l o n d e pe n di ng on t h e u s e r e q u i r e m e n t s ) . The f o rm u l as a r e
c l e a r and e x h i b i t a b loom e f f e c t upon d i l u t i o n .
d - L i monene
Monamul se DL-1 273v
I s o p ro p a n o l
Water
A lo e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)
d -L i monene
Monamulse DL-1273
I s o p ro p a n o l
Water
A lo e Vera Gel ( T e rr y AG002)
d -L i monene
Monamulse DL-1273
A lo e Vera Gel ( T e rr y AG002)
w/w
10 .0
18 .0
1 0 .0
42.0
20 .0
?
35 .0
28.0
5 . 0
1 2 . 0
20 .0
65.0
23.0
12 .0
Procedure :
c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and
o f
u n i f o rm c o n s i s t e n c y . Add t h e
I so
propa no l , m i x i ng u n t i l homogeneous. Pre -m ix A lo e Vera Gel
w i t h wa te r . S lo w l y add t o b a tc h w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i fo rm .
SOURCE:
T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : S u gg es te d F o r m u l a ti o n s
I n a l l c a s e s , m i x Monamulse DL-1273 w i t h d-Li mo ne ne u n t i l
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Miscellaneous 67
Modified Petrolatum
n r e d i e n t
s
W h i t e p e t r o l a t u m
USP
Ar lamo l ISML, I s os o r b i de mono lau ra te
G-695, g l y c e r o l monoo lea te
75 .00
20.00
5.00
Procedure :
Add pha se ( A) t o g e t h e r a nd s t i r w i t h s l i g h t h e a t . Add pha se
( B) and h e at t o 8OC and s t i r i n phase ( C ). Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g
and add phase
( D ) .
Formula CP 1051
Modified Petrolatum
I n a r e d i e n t s :
P e t r o l at u m , W h i t e P r o t o p e t
Span 40, s o r b i t a n monopa lm i ta te
A r l a t o n e
G, PEG
25 h yd r og e na te d c a s t o r o i l
P rocedure :
Formula
CP
1095
M e l t a nd m i x .
Modified Petrolatum
I n n r e d i e n t s :
P e t r o l at u m , W h i te P r o t o p e t
Span
40,
s o r b i t a n m o n o p a l m i t a t e
A r l a t o n e
G, PEG
25 hy d ro ge n at ed c a s t o r o i l
Procedure :
M e l t a n d m i x
Formula
CP
1096
Washable Oil
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A
Ar lamo l
E
At las 673500
60.00
24.00
16 .00
50.00
30.00
20 .00
71 .40
14 .30
B B r i j
30 9.50
C
Dow Corning
344
c y c l o m e t h i c o n e
4 . 8 0
Procedure :
and m ix we1 1
.
Formula
CP
1117
SOURCE: I C 1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
M i x ( 8 ) w e l l , Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) a nd m i x w e l l . Add ( C) t o ( AB)
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68
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Ointment Base
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A C e t y l a l c o h o l
B
Sorbo
A r l a c e l 1 6 5
Wate r, de i on i zed
C A r l a s o l v e D M I
D
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
q . s .
t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .
7 . 0 0
5 . 0 3
5 . 0 0
73.00
10.00
Procedure :
go od a g i t a t i o n and ad d (C ) a t 35C and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add (D ) .
R ep la ce w a t e r l o s t d ue t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package.
Heat (A) t o 72C and
B )
t o 75C. Add
(8)
o (A) s l o w ly w i t h
Anhydrous Ointment
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Ar l am o l ISML, i s o so rb id e mono lau rate
A r l
ace1 186 , g l y c e r o l monool ea t e
Pe t ro la tu m, P er fe c t a USP
* Pe rfum e o r a c t i v e s
* q . s .
t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure :
Add phase (A ) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t
6 )
and h e a t t o 80C and s t i r i n ph ase ( C ) . Coo
and add phase (D).
h e a t
wh
i
Zinc Oxide Ointment-Anhydrous
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A r l amol ISML, i os or b i de mono1 a ur a t e
A r l a c e l 18 6, g l y c e r o l m on oo le at e
P e t r o l a t u m , P e r f e c t a
USP
Z i n c o x i d e ,
USP
*P erfum e o r a c t i v e s
25.00
7 . 0 0
68 .00
Add phase
e s t i r r i n g
m
20.00
5 . 6 0
5 4 - 4 0
2 0 . 0 0
Procedure :
Add phase ( A ) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t h e a t. Add phase
( B ) and h e a t t o 80C and s t i r i n phase ( C) . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g
and add phase (D).
Fo rm ul a CP 1035
SOURCE: IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Miscellaneous
469
O/W
Ointment Base
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A P e t r o l a t u m
15.00
M in er al o i l
15.00
Spermacet i 5 .00
A r l a c e l
40,
s o r b i t a n m o n o p a l m i t a t e
5.00
Tween 40, po l yox ye t hy le ne s o r b i t a n monopalm i t a t e 5 .00
B
Water , de ion i zed
55.00
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q .
s .
t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure :
modera te s t i r r i n g .
S t i r
t o
35C
and add w a t e r l o s t due t o
e v a p o r a t i o n .
Heat ( A ) t o
70C.
Hea t (B) t o
72C.
Add ( 6 ) t o ( A) s l o w l y w i t h
O/W Ointment Base
I n s r e d i e n t s :
A C e t y l a l c o h o l
20.00
M in er al o i l
20.00
A r l
ace1
80,
s o rb i t a n monool e a t e
0 . 5 0
Tween
80,
p o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n m on oo le at e 4 .5 0
B
Water de i on i zed
55.00
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s .
t h es e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Heat (A)
t o 70C.
Heat
(B)
t o
72C.
Add
(B)
t o
( A )
s l ow l y w i t h
Procedure :
moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o
35C
and add w a t e r l o s t due t o
e v a p o r a t i o n .
O/W Ointment Base
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
15.00
Beeswax
5.00
M in er a l o i l
15.00
A r l a c e l
80,
s o r b i t a n m o n o o l e a t e
1.25
0
Water , de i on i zed
60.00
Tween
80,
p o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n m on oo le at e
3.75
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
*a.
s .
t h e s e g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure :
Heat
( A )
m od er at e s t
e v a p o r a t i o n
SOURCE:
IC1
t o
70C.
Heat
( 8 )
t o
72C.
Add ( 6 ) t o ( A) s l o w l y w i t h
r r i n g . S t i r t o
35C
and add w a t e r l o s t due t o
Su r f a c t a n t s : Sug ge st ed Fo rm u l a t i o n s
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47 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil-In-Water-In-Silicone Emulsion
O i
1
-i
-w at er Emu1 s i
on
Phase:
Water
P a n t e t h i n e ( 80% a q . s o l . )
Me thy lpa raben
Carbomer 940
G l y c e r i n e
Sod ium a1 k y l po l y e t h e r s u l f o n a t e
B l a n d o l M i n e r a l O i l
C h o l e s t e r o l
C e t y l p a l m i t a t e
PEG-22 dod ecy l g l y c o l copo lymer
E t h y l p a r a b e n
Propy lpa raben
S i 1
i
one Phase
:
Cyclomethicone/dimethicone
(9O: lO)
Cyclomethicone/dimethiconol (13 :87 )
Cyc lometh i cone
Pheny ld ime th i cone
Pare th 15 -3
Oc ty lme thoxyc innamate
Benzophenone
C12-15 a1 coh o1 s benzoa te
C o l o r
F rag rance
Protein-Lecithin Complex Emulsion
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l
O i
1
P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r o l a t u m
C e t y l a l c o h o l
G l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e
C a s e i n - l e c i t h i n c o m p l e x
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
F rag rance
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Water
61 .54%
0 . 1 0
0 . 2 0
0 . 1 0
2 .50
1
. 2 5
1 . 7 5
1
. o o
0 . 2 0
0 . 2 0
0 . 1 0
0 . 1 5
9 . 5 0
5 . 0 0
3 . 0 0
1
. o o
2 .00
7 .00
0 . 5 0
2 . 8 5
0 . 0 3
0 . 0 3
45.00%
10.00
1 . 50
3 . 0 0
3 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
0 . 5 0
qs
q s
t o
1 0 0 . 0
Skin Growth Accelerator
5-Methoxy-6,7-methylenedioxy-Isoflavone-4-O-B-D-gluc-
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 1 8 .0 0
L an ol i n 2 0. 00
Po l y o x y e t h y l e n e m o n o o l e a t e
0 . 2 5
G l y c e r y l m o n o st e ar a te 0 .2 5
P r o t o p e t 1
S
Pe t ro l a t u m 4 0 . 0 0
Water 16.50
SOURCE: W i t co Cor p . : Pe t ro le um S p e c i a l t i e s Group : Suggested
o s i d e
5.00
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Miscellaneous 47
Pharmaceutical Cream Base
I n g r e d i e n t s : w/w
A
S t e a r y l A l co h o l 6 . 0 0
A r l a c e l
1 6 5
6 . 0 0
6
Sorbo, S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n
USP
5 . 0 0
Water 83.00
Heat ( A) t o 70C. Heat
(6)
o 72C. Add
(6)
o (A) w i t h a g i t a -
Procedure :
t i o n .
S t i r
u n t i l s e t .
Pharmaceutical Cream Base
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
S t e a r i c A c i d 10 .00
S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 5 . 0 0
Tween
60 3 . 0 0
Span 60
1
. o o
6
Water 81 - 0 0
Procedure :
t i o n .
S t i r
u n t i l s e t .
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat
(6)
o 72C. Add
(6)
o ( A) w i t h a g i t a -
Pharmaceutical Cream Base
I n q r e d i e n t s :
A S t e a r i c A c i d 1 0. 00
S t e a r y l
A1
coho1
5 . 0 0
Corn
O i l 3 . 0 0
I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 2
. o o
My r j 52 3 .00
Span 60 2.00
6
S orb o, S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n USP 5 . 0 0
Water 70.00
Procedure :
Hear (A ) t o 70C. Heat
(6)
o 72C. Add (6) o (A ) w i t h a g i t a -
t i o n .
S t i r
u n t i l s e t .
Pharmaceutical Ointment Base
I n q r e d i e n t s
:
A C e t y l A l c o h o l 20 .00
Corn
O i l
2 0 . 0 0
Tween 80
4 . 5 0
Span 80
0 . 5 0
6
Water 55.00
Procedure :
t i o n .
S t i r
u n t i l s e t .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat ( A) t o 70C. Heat
( 6 )
t o 72C. Add
(6)
o (A) w i t h a g i t a -
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472 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Washable Oil
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Ar l amo l
S3
B r i j 30
A r l a t o n e
T
P r o c e d u r e :
Formula
CP
1111
M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a tu r e ,
Washable Oil
I n q r e d i e n t s :
Ar l amo l
E
At las G73500
U
50.00
50.00
Procedure :
Fr om ul a CP 1112
M i x w e l l a t room te m p e r a t u re ,
Washable il
I n q r e d i e n t s :
Ar l amo l
S3
I s o p ro p y l p a l m i t a t e
B r i j
93
B r i j
30
Water
Procedure :
Formula CP 1115
M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a tu r e .
Washable Oil
I n a r e d i e n t s :
A Ar lamo l
E
B B r i j 30
C Dow Co rn ing 344 cy c lo me th ico ne
At las G73500
?&yy
80
0
10 .00
10 .00
60.00
30.00
5.00
4 . 6 0
0 . 4 0
l
50 .00
25.00
20.00
5 .00
Procedure :
and mi x w e l l .
Formula
CP
1116
M i x (B ) w e l l . Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) and m ix we l l . Add
C)
t o (AB)
SOURCE:
IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : Su gg es ted F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Miscellaneous 473
Washable Oil
I n a r e d ie n t s :
A Ar lamo l E
B
B r i j
30
Water
Procedure :
Formula
CP
1109
M i x
( B )
we1 1 . Add (B) t o (A) and m ix w e l l .
Washable
Oil
I n s r e d i e n t s :
A Ar lamo l
E
B A r l a c e l 1 8 6
A r l a t o n e
T
U
79 50
2 0 . 0 0
0.50
y fy
70 .00
10 .00
20 .00
Procedure :
t o g e t h er a t room t em p er at ur e and s t i r w e l l .
Formula
CP
1110
M ix ( 8 ) w e l l , u s i n g h ea t t o c l a r i f y t h e A r l a c e l 186. M i x (A&B)
Washable Oil
I n s r e d i e n t s :
Ar l amo l
E
A r l a c e l 1 8 6
B r i j 93
Procedure :
Formula
CP
1113
M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a tu r e .
Washable Oil
I n a r e d i e n t s :
Ar l amo l
E
I s o p r op y l p a l m i t a t e
B r i j
93
Procedure :
Formula
CP
1114
SOURCE: IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a tu r e .
y fy
65.00
15 .00
2 0 . 0 0
y
60.00
30.00
10 .00
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474 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Wound Healing Accelerator
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e g l y c o l m o n o s t e a r a t e
G l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e
S t e a r i c a c i d
Beheny l a l coho l
B l a n d o l M i n e r a l
O i l
G l y c e ry l t r i o c t a n o a t e
Koj i
a c i d d i pa lm i t a t e
P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e
1,3 B u t y l en e g l y c o l
A1 1 a n t o i n
Water
Massage Gel
2 -H ex ad ec yl p h os ph a te a r g i n i n e s a l t
Water
G l y c e r i n
D i
p r o p y l ene g l y c o l
I s o s te a r y l d i g l y c e r i d e
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l
O i l
C e t y l a l c o h o l
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
F rag rance
P r e s e r v a t i v e
2 .00
5 . 0 0
5 . 0 0
1
. o o
1
. o o
5 . 0 0
2 . 0 0
qs
5 0 0
0 . 1 0
q s
t o
1 0 0 . 0 0
1.20%
3.60
14 .00
8 . 7 0
36 .00
35.50
0 . 4 0
0.60
9 , s .
9 , s .
Petrolatum Stick
T h i s h i g h p e t r o l a t u m s t i c k o f f e r s t h e w e l l known b e n e f i t s
o f p e t r o l a t u m i n an e asy t o use f or m.
P r o t o p e t
1s
P e t r o l a t u m
Syncrowax HGLC
Syncrowax ERCL
85 .0%
1 2 . 0
3 . 0
Procedure :
Combine t h e p e t r o l a t u m a nd t h e s yn crowax es . M i x w h i l e h e a t i n g
t o 80C. Co ol
t o
65-701) and p o u r .
C h i l l
t h e m ol ds
o r
t h e c ases t o
40C p r i o r
t o
p o u r i n g .
SOURCE:
W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l a t u m S p e c i a l t i e s G ro up: S ug ge ste d
F o r m u l a t i o n s
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Miscellaneous
475
W/O
Ointment Base
I n n r e d i e n t s :
A M in er al o i l
Beeswax
Lanol
i
A r l a c e l 8 3, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e
B Borax
Wate r, de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .
50 . 00
10 . 00
3 . 1 0
1 . o o
0 . 7 0
35 .20
Procedure :
m od er at e, b u t t h or o u gh a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a tu r e .
Heat ( A ) t o 70C and
( B )
t o 72C. Add
( B )
t o ( A) s l ow l y w i t h
W/O Ointment Base
I n g r e d i e n t s :
A
P e t r o l a t u m
M in er a l o i l
Beeswax
A r l
ace1 8 3, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e
B
Water, de i on i zed
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
40.00
15 .00
4.00
6 00
35.00
* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .
Hea t (A ) t o 70C and (B ) t o 72C. Add (B ) t o (A ) s l o w l y w i t h
Procedure :
m od era te , b u t t ho ro u gh a g i t a t i o n .
S t i r
u n t i l room t e m p e r a tu r e .
W/O
Ointment Base
qredi n
t
s
:
A
P e t r o l a t u m
A r l a c e l 8 3, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e
B Water, d i s t i l l e d
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
54 . 00
6 . 0 0
40.00
* q . s . t h e se i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure :
m od er at e, b u t t h or o u gh a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a tu r e .
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S ug ge st ed F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat (A) t o 70C and
( B )
t o 72C. Add (B)
t o
(A ) s l o w l y w i t h
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Sect ion XIII
Trade Nam ed Raw Materials
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Trade Named Raw Materials 477
RAW
MATERIALS
A b i l AV20
Ab i l 88839
A b i l B8851
Ab i l 88852
Ab i l 89950
A b i l B88183
A b i l EM-90
Abi 1 WE09
A b i l OSW12
A b i l Quat 3270
A b i l Quat 3272
A b i l Quat 3474
Abi l S201
A b i l Wax 2434
A b i l Wax 9800
Abi 1 Wax 9801
A b i l Wax 9809
Abi 1 Wax 9814
Abi 1 WE-09
Ab i l 100
Ab i l 3 5 0
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
P h e n y l t r i m e t h i c o n e
Cyc lometh icone
D i
meth i cone cop ol yo1
D i
meth i cone cop ol yo1
D i meth i cone p r op y l PG b e t a i n e
D i
met hi cone cop ol yo1
C e t y l d i m e t h i c o n e c o p o l y o l
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e
(a n d ) Ce ty l
D i
meth i cone
Copo lyo l (and) Hexy l Laura te
Cyclometh icone (and) Dimeth-
i c o n o l (an d) D im e th i con e
Q u a t e r n ium-80
Q u a te rn i um-80
Quaternium-80
D i
me th i cone/Sodi um
PG
Pro p y l
D im et hi co ne T h i o s u l f a t e
Copolymer
S te a ro xy d im e th i co n e
S t e a r y l
Ce ty l d
S t e a r y l
Ce ty l d
d ime th icone
met h i cone
meth icone
meth icone
C e t y l
D i
met hi cone Copol yo1
( an d) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r -
a t e (and ) Hexy l Lau ra te
SOURCE
Goldschmid t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go ldschmid t
Go1 dschmi d t
Goldschrni d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go ldschmid t
Goldschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go 1dsc hm
Go 1dsc hm
Goldschm
d t
d t
d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go ldschmid t
Go ldschmid t
Go1 dschmi d t
D i
meth i cone
Go1 dschmi d t
Dim eth ico ne Go1 dschmi d t
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478
Cosmetic
and
Toiletry
Formulations
RAW M A T E R I A L S C H E M I C A L D E S C R I P T I O N S OU RC E
Abi l 500
D met hi cone Go1 dschm dt
Abi l
1000
Di met hi cone Go1 dschm dt
A- C Copol ymer
400
Et hyl ene- vi nyl acet at e copol yr ner Al 1 ed Si g-
A- C Pol yet hy
A- C Pol yet hy
Acet ol
Acet ol 1706
Acet ul an
A- C Copol ymer
540
Copol ymer
A- C Copol ymer 580 Copol ymer
A- C Pol yet hy l ene 9A Pol yet hy l ene
A- C Pol yet hy l ene
617
Pol yet hy l ene
ene
61
7A Pol yet hyl ene
ene 617G Pol yet hyl ene
Acr i t amer 940
Acr i t amer 941
Acr y sol I Cs - I
Ac t i ve 4
Acusc r ub 44
Acusc r ub
50
Acyl gl ut amat e HS- 11
Adogen
M A 1 0 8
Adol 52
Adol 52 NF
Adr i ano 0/ 235970
Aer os i l R972
Acet y l at ed anol i n a1 cohol
Acet yl at ed anol n a1 cohol
Ac et y l at ed l anol n al cohol
Car bomer 940
Car bomer 941
A c r y l a t e / S t e a r e t h 2 0 / M e t h
acr yl at e Copol ymer
Scr ub agent
Scr ub agent
Sur f ac t ant
Di met hyl st ear am ne
Cet yl al c ohol
Cet yl al cohol
Fr agr ance
Fumed s i l i ca
Al l i ed Si g-
Al l i ed Si g-
Al l i ed Si g-
Al l i ed Si g-
Al l i ed Si g-
Al l i ed Si g-
Henkel
Henkel
Ame
r
c ho
1
RI TA
RI TA
Rohm&Haas
E1 ew
Al l i ed Si g-
Al l i ed Si g-
Aj nomot o
W t c o
W t c o
W t co
Degussa
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Trade Named
Raw
Materials 479
RAW MATERIALS
A G I T a l c
A j i d e w N 50
Aj idew T-50
A l c o l e c BS
A1 co na te
SBR-3
A ld o
HMS
A ldo MCT
A l f o l 18
Alkamide DL 203/S
Alkamide DC 212/S
A1 kamide
D I N 295/S
A1 kamide LE
A1 kamul EGMS
A1 1 a n t o i n
A lo e E x t r a c t
A l o e M o i s t
Aloe Vera 2 0 0 X
Aloe Verage l 200
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
T a l c
Sodium PCA
P y r r o l i d o n ec a r b o x y l i c a c i d
S i n g l e b l eac hed l e c i t h i n
Sodium p e t ro l e u m su l f o n a t e
G1 y c e r y l monostear ate
C ap ry l c a p r i c
t r i
g l y c e r i d e
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
A1 kano l ami de
A 1 kano l ami de
A1 kano
A1 kano
A1 oe
A1 oe
A 1
oe
A1 oe
ami de
ami de
A loe Vera Gel Dec o lo r i zed 1 X
Aloe Vera L i q u i d A1 oe
A l o e V er ag el L i p o i d A l o e
A l o e V er ag el L i q u i d : l
A l o e V er ag el L i q u i d C on c e n tr a t e 1 : 40
A l p in e F l o r a l i s t i c F rag ranc e
SOURCE
Whi t t a k e r
A j
omoto
A j i omoto
Amer Lech
i t c o
Lonza
Lonza
V i s t a
Rhone-
Rhone-
Rhone-
Rhone-
I C 1
T e r r y
T e r r y
D r . Madis
D r .
Madis
T e r r y
D r .
Madis
D r . Madis
D r .
Madis
D r . Madis
A1 p i ne
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480 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
A1 p i ne 165-049
Alugel DF30
Amerchol C A B
Amerchol H-9
Amerchol L-101
Amerchol 400
Amerl a t e
Am e r l a te P
Amerscreen P
Amihope LL
A m i s o f t CA
A m i s o f t CS-11
A m i s o f t CT-12
Amiter LG-OD
A m i t e r LGOD-2
Amiter LGS-2
Ammonyx
K P
AMP
AMP-95
Amphi so l
Amphisol A
Amphiso l
K
Ampholyt JA140
Amphol y t JB130
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Fragrance
Aluminum hydroxide
S t e r o l emul s i
f
r / s t a b
S t e r o l e m u l s i f i e r / s t a b
M in er a l o i l and l a n o l i n
S t e r o l emul s i f r / s t a b i
I s o p r o p y l
1
a no l a t e
Lanol f a t t y a c i d / es t e
1
i
er
l i z e r
a l c o h o l
e r
E t hy l d i hydr oxy prop y l PABA
L au ro yl l y s i n e
Cocoy l g lu tamate
Sod ium coc oy l g lu ta mate
TEA-Cocoyl g lutamate
D i - o c t y l d o d ec y l l a u r o y l
g l u t a m a t e
D i s t e a r e t h - 2 1 a u r o y l g l u ta m a t e
O lea 1 kon iu m c h l o r i d e
2-ami no-2 -me thyl -1 -p rop ano l
2-amino-2-methyl -1-propanol
DEA-Cetyl phosphate
Po ta ssi u m c e t y l p ho sp ha te
Sodium lauroamphoacetate
Cocami dopr opy l be t a i ne
SOURCE
A 1 p i ne
Gui 1 i
Amerchol
Amerc ho 1
Amerchol
Amerchol
Amerchol
Amerc ho 1
Arner
c
ho1
A j i n o m o to
A ]
i omoto
A j
omoto
A j i n o m o to
A j
omoto
A j omoto
A j omoto
Stepan
Angus
Angus
G i vaudan
G i vaudan
G i vaudan
H u l s
Hul
s
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Trade Named Raw Materials 481
RAW
MATERIALS
Amphomer LV-71
Amphotensi d 84
Amphotensid GB 2009
Am photensid 9M
Antaron V-220
A n t i l 141 L i q u i d
A n t i l 1 418
Ant
Ant
Ant
APT
1 1415
1 HS60
1 171
Aquasol 104
A r l
ace1
C
A r l a c e l 2 0
Ar l a ce l 4 0
A r l a c e l 6 0
A r l a c e l 8 0
A r l a c e l 8 3
A r l a c e l 8 5
A r l a c e l 1 6 5
A r l a c e l 1 8 6
A r l a c e l 4 8 1
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
p r o p y l ene g l yco
PEG-55 propylene
Zschi mmer
Zschi mmer
Zsch i mmer
I S P
(a nd ) PEG-55 Go ld sc hm id t
o l e a t e
g l yc o l o l ea t e Go1 dschmi d t
PEG-55 p ropy lene g l y c o l o l ea t e Go1 dschmi d t
Cocamidopropyl Be ta in e (and) Go ldschm id t
G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e
PEG-18 Gl yc er y l g l y c o l cocoate / Go ldschmid t
01 ea te
A l oe v e r a g e l
Emul s i y i ng agent
Emul s i y i ng agent
Centerchem
CLE
I C 1
I C 1
So rb i t a n monopalmi t a t e I C 1
So rb i t a n m o n o s te a ra te I C 1
So rb i t a n m o n o o le a te I C 1
S o r b i t a n s es qu i o l e a t e I C 1
Emul s i y i ng agent
I C 1
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a nd ) I C 1
G1 y c e r o l monool e at e I C 1
Emul s i y i ng agent I C 1
PEG 100 S t e a r a t e
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482 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERI ALS
Ar l ac el
582
Ar l acel
78
Ar l acel
989
Ar l acel
1689
Ar l acel DOA
Ar l amol E
Ar l at one
G
Ar l amol HD
Ar l amol I SML
Ar l amol M812
Ar
Ar
Ar
Ar
amo
amo
aso
aso
s3
s7
ve DMI
ve 200
Ar l at one G
i qui d
Ar l at one PQ220
Ar l at one T
Ar l at one 985
Ar l at one 2121
Ar meen DM18D
A- SM
AT
Ser i es
At l as G- 1726
At l as G- 1795
Emu
Emu
Emu
Emu
CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON
si
f yi ng agent
si
f yi ng agent
si f yi ng agent
si f yi ng agent
Emul s i f y i ng agent
PPG- 15 st ear y l et her
PEG
25
hydr ogenat ed cast or
oi l
Emul
si
f y i
ng
agent
I sosor bi de monol aur at e
Emuf s i f y i ng agent
Emul
si
f y i ng agent
E m u l si
f y i ng agent
Emul
si
f yi ng agent
I socet et h- 20
PEG
2 5
hydr ogenat ed cast or oi l
Pol yquat er ni um- 19
Sunscr een agent
Sunscr een agent
Sunscr een agent
A1
i
phat i c am nes
St ear am ne oxi de
I r on
ox i d e s
Beeswax der vat ve
SOURCE
i c 1
i c 1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
c
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
Akzo
Ni ppon O i l
1c1
I C1
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Trade Named Raw Materials
483
RAW MATERIALS
At las G-2162
At las G-2330
At las G-3570
A t l a s
G
73500
Atmul 84s
Aubygel x-125
Avocado O i l
Avocado Spe ci a1
Baby
Bays
Powder
l o n e F
Eentone Ge
Bentone Ge
Eentone
L T
Eentone MA
165-648
u i d M10
Baysi
1
one F1 u i d PK2O
Beauty 0/239870
B ee 's M i l k
Bentone
EW
Eentone Gel CAO
Bentone Gel I P M
Een tone Ge l LO1
Bentone Gel M I 0
Bentone Gel SS71
vs-5
vs-5 PC
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
IC1
L i PO
Dragoco
Fragrance
S i 1
one
S i 1 one
Perfume o i l
Rheo l og i ca
Rheo l og i ca
Rheo l og i ca
Rheo log ica
H e ct o r i e c l a y
R h eo lo gi ca l a d d i t i v e
R h eo lo gi ca l a d d i t i v e
R h eo lo g ic a l a d d i t i v e
R h eo lo g ic a l a d d i t i v e
R h eo lo gi ca l a d d i t i v e
add i t i e
a d d i t i v e
add i t i e
a d d i t i v e
Mobay
Mobay
K o s t e r
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
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484 Cosmetic and
Toiletry
Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Bermoco l l E230 Whi t t a k e r
Be rm oc ol l E481 Whi
t
a e r
Be ta Glucam 15% Coarse Ko st er
B io dy ne s TRF T i s s u e r e s p i r a t o r y f a c t o r s B ro ok s
B i o l ac L a c t i c a c i d , 88%
B i o - s u l p h u r CLR CLR
B i o t e r g e AS-40 Sodi
u m
C14-C16 o l e f s u l f o n a t e Stepan
B i
r c h
(wa te r ) Sp e c ia l D ra go co
B1 a nd ol M i n e r a l o i l
Wi
c o
Bou que t Eau de Mer PC 916 .315 Perfum e
B r i
O le th -10 1c1
B r i j 20 Emul s i y i ng agent c
B r i j 30 Emul s i y i ng agent c
B r i j 35 E m u l s i f y i n g a ge nt 1c1
B r i j 35SP E m u l s i f y i n g a ge nt
c
B r i j 52 C et et h- 2 c
B r i j 56 E m u l s i f y i ng ag en t 1c1
B r i j 58 Emul s i y i ng agen t c
B r i j 72 S t ea r et h -2
c
B r i j 76 S te ar et h- 10
1c1
B r i j 78
S t e a r e t h - 2 0 c
B r i j 93 Emul s i y i ng agent c
B r i j 9 7 Emul s i y i ng agent
1c1
B r i j 700
E m u l s i f y i n g a g en t I C 1
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Trade Named Raw Materials
485
RAW MATERIALS
B r i j 721
B r i
j
721s
Bronopol
Busan 1504
c19-011
C19-012
C65-4429
Cab-0-Si 1 M-5
Cab-0-Si1 TS-530
CAE
Camomile Special
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Stea re th -21
Emu1 s i y i ng agent
B a c t e r i c i d e
M i
c r o b i o c i de
D&C
Red No. 7
D&C Red No. 6
F&D Ye l l o w
No.
5
S i l i c a
S i l i c a
DCA e t h y l c o co yl a r g i n a t e
C ap ry l i c / C a p r ic T r i g l y c e r i d e
Car bo po l EDT Carbomer
Carb opo l ETD 2055 Ca rbome
r
Ca rbo pol 934 Carbomer 934
Carbopol 940 Carbomer 940
Ca rbo pol 941 Carbomer 941
Car bopol 954 Carbomer 954
Ca rbo pol 980 Carbomer 980
Ca rbo pol 981 Carbomer 981
Ca rbo pol 1382 Carbomer 1382
Ca rn a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1
Cas to rwax Hyd ro ge na te d ca s t o r o i l
SOURCE
I C 1
I C 1
I n o l ex
Buckman
S u n
Sun
S u n
Cabot
Cabot
A j omoto
Dragoco
Berne l
Goodr i ch
Goodri ch
Goodr h
Goodr i ch
Goodr i ch
Goodr i ch
Goodr i ch
Goodr h
Goodri ch
i t c o
CasChem
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486 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICALS DESCRIPTION
Cegoso
C e l l o s
C e l l
o s
C e l l o s
t C24
ze
QP
l O O M H H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u
ze QP-4400-H H yd ro xy e t hy lc e l lu
ze PP-15,000-H Hy dr ox ye th y l ce l l u
Ce l qua t
H 1 00
Celquat SC-240
Cera A l b a l a t e
103
Cera B e l l i n a
Cera1 an
Ceraphyl 41
Ceraphyl 45
Ceraphyl 50
Ceraphy l
50s
Ceraphy l 60
Ceraphy l
65
Ceraphyl 368
Ceraphy l
375
Ceraphyl 424
Ceraphyl 494
Ceraphyl 847
Ceraphy l I C A
Cerasyn t MN
Cerasyn t PA
Cerasyn t Q
ose
ose
ose
Pol yq ua te rn i um-4
Po lyqua te rn ium-10
Behenyl beeswaxates
Pg-3 Beeswax
C12-15 a l co h o l s l a c t a t e
D i
o c t y l m l a t e
Emul s i i r
Emul s i f r
Q u at e rni urn-22
Q u a te rn i um-26
O c t y l p a l m i t a t e
I s o s t e a r y l n e o p e n t a n o a t e
E m u l s i f i e r
Emul s i
f
i e r
SOURCE
Union Car
Union Car
Union Car
Na tS ta rch
Na tS ta rch
Ko s te r
Ko s te r
Ame r c ho 1
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
O c ty l d o d e cy l s te a ro y l s t e a ra te VanDyk
Emu ls i f i e r VanDyk
G l y c ol s t e a r a t e SE VanDyk
Propy lene g ly co l s t ea ra te VanDyk
G l y c er y l s t e a r a t e SE VanDyk
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Trade Named Raw Materials 487
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Cerasynt 840 PE G - 2 0 s t e a r a t e
C eres in e Wax 130/135
Cere si ne Wax 140/150
Cetal Cetyl a lcoho l
Cet
Cet
Cet
01
MM
01 OE
01
s
Emol
Emo 1
Emol
i e nt e s t e r s
i e n t e s t e r s
i en t e s t e r s
C e t i o l SN Emoll ient es te r s
Chamomile LS Saff lowe r o i l (an d) chamomile
e x t r a c t
Chi a r a 0/238927 Fra gra nc e
Chlorhydrol , 50% Aluminum chlorhydrate, 50%
Choles te ro l NF
Chroma-1 i t e 81 ack Pe ar le sc en t pigment
Chroma-l i te Dark Blue Pearlescent pigment
Ci t r o f l e x - 2 P l a s t i c i z e r
C1 e a r l an Lanol i n
CMC
7MF
Cel l u l o s e gum
Coconut Oil 76
Col lagen
C L R
Co ll as ol Col
1
agen
Color No. 3170 Pur Oxy Yellow 0 C
Col or No. 3315 Pur
O x y
Umber
B . C .
Color
N o .
2511 Lo-Micron Pink B . C .
Colo r No. 3121-D
& C
Red No.
21
Color N o . 7055 P u r Oxy Yellow 0.C.
Color No. 7153 Lo-Micron P i n k
B . C .
SOURCE
Van D y k
Koster
Koster
Ame
r
cho 1
Henke
Henke
Henke
Henkel
Rehei
s
Ri ta
VanDyk
VanDyk
Morf 1ex
Henkel
Aqua1 on
We1 ch
CLR
Croda
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488 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Cop hero l F-1300 Toco pher ol Henkel
Corona Pure New La n o l i n
Cosmet ic Tan C33-130 I r o n o x id e Sun
Cosmowax
J
Courage 0/243101
CP 1052
Cremogen Aloe Vera
Cremophor A6
Cremophor A25
Cremophor EL
Cremophor HP14
Cremophor RH410
Crodace l
QM
Cro d a c id B
Crodacol C-70
Crodacol C-95
Crodacol CS-50
Crodacol S-95
Crodacol S-95NF
Crodafos
CES
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l ( a n d ) c e t e a r -
e th -2 0
Fragrance
Shampoo base
P r o p yl e n e g l y c o l ( an d) e t h ox y -
d i g l y c o l (and) a l o e e x t r a c t
S u r f a c t a n t
S u r f a c t a n t
S u r f a c t a n t
S u r f a c t a n t
S u r f a c t a n t
Cocodimonium hydraxypropoxy
c e l l u l ose
Be h e n i c a c i d
C e t y l a l c o h o l
C e t y l a l c o h o l
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
C e t e ar y l a l c o h o l ( a nd ) c e t e a r y l
phosphate
Croda
I C 1
Haarman
BASF
BASF
BASF
B A S F
BASF
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
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Trade Named Raw Materials 489
RAW MATERIALS
Crodafos
N 3
N e u t r a l
Crodafos N3A
Crodafos N 1 OA
Crodalan LA
Crodamol C A P
Crodamol DA
Crodamol ML
Crodamol
MM
Crodamol PMP
Crodamol P T C
Crodamol P T I S
Crodamol
S S
Crodamol
C r o d a p e a r l L i q u i d
C r od as i n i c LS-30
Cromois t CS
Crodesta F10
Crodesta F110
Cro p e p t i d e
Croquat HH
Croquat L
C H E M I C A L D E S C R I P T I O N
DEA
Ole th-3 phosphate
Ole th -3 phosphate
Ole th -10 phosphate
C e t y l a c e t a t e ( an d) a c e t y l a t e d
1 a n ol a l c o h o l
F a t t y a c i d e s t e r
F a t t y a c i d e s t e r
F a t t y a c i d e s t e r
M y r i s t y 1 m yr i s t a t e
SOURCE
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
PPG-2 m y r i s t y l e th e r p ro p io n a t e C ro da
P e n t a e r t h y r i t y l t e t r a c a p r y l a t e / Croda
c a p r a t e
P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l t e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e Croda
C e t y l e s t e r s
S te a ry l h e p ta n o a te
Sodi um 1a u r e t h s u l f a t e ( an d)
hydroxyethyl s tearamide-MIPA
Sodi um 1 a u r o y l s a r c os i n a t e
C h o n d r o i t in s u l f a t e ( and )
h y dr o ly z ed p r o t e i n
Sugar es te r
Sugar es te r
Hyd ro l yze d whea t p r o t e i n (a nd )
wheat o l osacchar i des
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl
h yd ro l yze d h a i r k e r a t i n
Lau ry ld imon ium hyd roxyp ropy l
c o l 1agen
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
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490
Cosmetic
and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
C ro su l t a i ne C-50
C r o t e i n
A D
C r o t e i n SPA
C r o t h i x
Crovol A-70
Crovol PK-70
C r y s t a l 0
C u t i n a CBS
C u t i n a
CP
C u t i n a GMS
C u t i n a LM
C u t i n a
MD
Cyclomide DC 212/S
C y c l o r y l WAT
C y c l o t e r i c BET C-30
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Co ca m id o p ro p y l h yd ro xysu l t a i n e
H y d r ol y z e d a ni ma l p r o t e i n
H y d r ol y z e d a ni ma l p r o t e i n
PEG-1
50 p e n t a e r y t h r i t y l
t e t r a s t e a r a t e
PEG-60 almond glycerides
PEG-45 pa lm ke rne l g l y c er id e s
Ca s to r o i l
Cream base
Cream base
Cream base
Cream base
Cream base
Cocamide DEA
Cocami dopr opy l b e t a i
n e
DC-556 S i 1 one
DC-593 S i 1 one
D&C Red 7 Ca Lake (3 10 7)
D & C Red 9 (31-3009)
Deosafe 75128
N / I
Perfume
Dermacry l LT Sk in ca re po lymer
Dermacry l -79 Sk in ca re po lymer
SOURCE
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
CasChem
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Cyc lo
Cyc lo
Cyc lo
D o w
Co rn in g
D o w Co rn in g
Thomasset
Thomasset
Haarman
N a t . S t a r c h
N a t . S t a r c h
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Trade Named Raw Materials
491
RAW MATERI ALS
Der mol
185
D af or mer 2- A
Di af or mer
2-301
D af or mer
2-400
D ahol d A- 503
Di oni l OC/ K
D- Li monene
Dow Cor ni ng
2-7224
Dow Cor ni ng
Q2-5000
Dow Cor ni ng
190
Dow Cor ni ng
193
Dow Cor ni ng
200
DC
200
f l u i d ; 50
vi s
Dow Cor ni ng
200; 100
Dow Cor ni ng
200; 200
CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON
I sost ear y l neopent anoat e
Met hac r y l ol et hyl bet ai ne/
met hacr yl at es copol ymer
Met hac r y l ol et hyl bet ai ne/
met hacr yl at es copol ymer
Met hac r yl ol et hyl bet ai ne/
met hacr yl at es copol ymer
AMP- Acr yl at es Copol ymer
PEG 4 1
eam de
Di pent ene
S
i cone
D met
h
cone cop0 yo
Di met hi cone copol yol
Di met hi cone copol yol
D met h
i
cone
D met hi cone
D met hi cone
Di met hi cone
Dow Cor ni ng
344
F l ui d Cyc l omet hi cone
Dow Cor ni ng
345
F l ui d Cyc l omet hi cone
Dow Cor ni ng
556
Phenyl t r i met hi cone
SOURCE
Sandoz
Sandoz
Sandoz
Sandoz
Hul s
Fl or i da
Dow
Cor n
Dow Cor n
Dow Cor n
Dow Cor n
Dow Cor n
Dow
Cor n
Dow Cor n
Dow Cor ni ng
Dow Cor ni ng
Dow Cor ni ng
Dow Cor ni ng
Dow Cor ni ng
593
Di met hi cone ( and) t r i met hyl - Dow Cor ni ng
si l oxys i i c at e
Dow Cor ni ng
929
Amodi met hi cone ( and) nonoxy- Dow Cor ni ng
no1
- 10
( and) t al ow- t r i moni um
c hl or i de
Dow Cor ni ng
1401
Fl ui d Dow Cor ni ng
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492 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATER L S
D o w i c i l 200
Dra g o c id
Drakeol 9
Drakeol 109
Drakeo l 35
Dr y F l o PC
Duveen T o i l e t Soap
Dynacer i n 660
Dynasan 110
Dynasan 114
CHEMICAL
D E S C R I P T I O N S O U R C E
P r e s e r v a t i ve Dow
Dragoco
M i n e r a l o i l Penreco
M in e ra l o i 1 , n a p h th e n i c Penreco
M i n e r a l o i l Penreco
Alum inum s ta rc h o c t e n y l su cc i n a te Nat S ta rc h
Base Duveen
0 1 e y l e ru ca t e Hul s
T r i Cap ri n Hul
s
T r i myr i s t i
n
Hul s
Eastman A0 38s Pol ymer Eastman
Eastman
AQ
55s Polymer Eastman
Eastman Vitamin E TPGS (20%) Eastman
Eastman Vi tamin E Ac et at e 6-81 Eastman
E la s to so l Anim al Co l l a g e n & E l a s t i n C r o d a
E ldew CL-301 D i - ( c h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl ,
A j
omoto
o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N - L a u r o y l - L - g l u t -
amic a c i d e s t e r
E l e f ac 1 -205 Oc ty ldod ecy l neopen tanoa te
E l fa co s C26 Polymer f o r cosmet i c s
E l fa co s E200 Polymer f o r cosmet i c s
E l fa co s ST9 Polymer f o r cosmet i c s
Emal ex CC-168 C e t y l oc ta no at e
Emalex GM-5 POE 5 ) g l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e
Be rn e l
Akzo
Akzo
Akzo
N i
hon
N i hon
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Trade Named Raw Materials
493
R A W M A T E R I A L S
Emalex
G M S - 7 C A E
Emal ex GMS-45RT
Emalex HC-5
Emalex
S . T , G . - R
Emeressence 1160
Emerest 2000
Emerest 2314
Emerest 2316
Emerest 2350
Emerest 2388
Emerest 2400
Emerest 2407
Emerest 2452
Emersol 132
Emersol 213
Emerson-1 323
Emery
I P P
Emery 622
Emery 916
Emery 1723
E s c a l o l 507
Esca lo l 557
Esca lo l 567
C H E M I C A L DESCRIPTION
G l y c e r y l m on os te ar at e, s e l f
emul s i y i ng
G l y c e r y l m on os te ar at e, s e l f
emul s i y i ng (HLB5)
POE ( 5 ) h yd ro ge na te d c a s t o r o i l
H yd ro ge na te d o i l
Phenoxyethanol
G1 yc e r y l s t e a ra te
E s t e r
E s t e r
G l y c o l s t e a r a t e
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l
d i
p e l a r g o na t e
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
G l y c er y l s t e a r a t e S E
P o l yg l y ce r y l d i - i s o s t e a r a t e
S t e a r i c a c i d
Coconu t ac id
G l y c e r i n p u re
O c t y l d i me th yl PABA
Octy l methoxyc innamate
Benzophenone-3
SOURCE
Nihon Emul
Nihon Emul
Nihon Emul
Nihon Emul
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Van Dyk
Van Dyk
Van Dyk
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494 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Esta lan 430
E s t o l EHP 1543
Esto l 1550
Ethomeen C-25
Ethox-yktted Carnauba
Ethoxyo l 24
Eumulg in 91
Eumulgin 92
Euperlan PK-771
Eusolex 232
Euso lex 6300
Eu ta n o l
G
Ewalan O D E 50
E x t r a c t 5 2
C H E M I C A L
D E S C R I P T I O N
Cosmet ic emol 1 n t es t e r
Cosmet i c es te r
Cosmet i c es te r
Et hox y l a t ed a1 ha t i c ami nes
E t ho x yl a t e d o l e y l a l c o h o l
C o s m e t i c e m u l s i f i e r
O/W
C o s m e t i c e m u l s i f i e r O/W
P e a r l s h i n e c o n c e n t r a t e
Sunscreen
Sunscreen
O c ty l d o d e ca n o l
Ext ra po n Hamamel Sp ec i a1
Ex tr ap on 3-Speci a1
Fancol A L A
F in q u a t
C T
F in s o lv TN
amenco Super Blue
amenco Superpearl
amenco Velvet-100
e x r i c i n 9
A c e t y l a t ed l a n o l i n a l c oh o l
Qu at er ni um-75
C12-15 a lc oh o ls benzoate
Cosmet ics p igment
Cosmet ics p igment
Cosmet ics p igment
F a t t y a c i d e s t e r
SOURCE
Lanaetex
Unichema
Un i chema
Akzo
Ko s te r
Lanaetex
Hen ke l
Henkel
Henkel
EM I n d u s t
EM I n d u s t
Henkel
HE Wagner
Zsch i mmer
Dragoco
Dragoco
Fanning
F i n e te x
F i n e te x
Mear l
Mear l
Mear l
Caschem
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Trade Named Raw Materials 495
RAW MATERI ALS CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON
Fl or al Spi ce NP49 Fr agr ance
F1 or asynt h AB5697 Powder t ype
Fl ui l an Li qui d l anol i n
Fombl i n HC/ R
For es t al
For l an
L
R. I . T. A. b l e n d
Fouger e Lavender Fr agr ance
Fr agr ance DE- 47
Fr agr ance DO- 60
Fr agr ance- F i nesse Type
Fr agr ance- F l or a l 169- 120
Fr agr ance GG44
Fr agr ance GK- 17
Fr agr ance GK- 19
Fr agr ance GK- 21
Fr agr ance GP- 58
Fr agr ance H- 45756
Fr agr ance 2991H
Fr agr ance X3110
Fr agr ance
1- 67
Fr agr ance
189- 7124
Fr agr ance 163- 478
SOURCE
Cr oda
Br ooks
I C1
Ri t a
Fr t z s c h e
Novar ome
Novar ome
Novar ome
Novar ome
Novar ome
Novarome
Rober t et
I FF
Rour e
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496
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
G-9600 1053 Shampoo base
I C 1
Gaff VC-213
V i
nylcaprolactam/PVP/Dimethyl-
ISP
aminoe thy l me thacry la te copo lymer
Gafquat
755
Po ly qu at er n i um-1
I S P
Gamma Or za no l K os te r
Ganex V-220 PVP/E icosene co po lyme r I S P
Ganex WP660 A l k y la t e d v i n y l py r r o l i d on e I S P
co po l ymer
Geahlene
750
M i n e r a l o i l ( an d) h yd ro ge na te d
butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer
(and ) hyd rogena ted e thy lene /p ro py le ne /
s ty rene copo lymer
Gemtone Mauve Qu ar tz Cosmet ic p e a r l powder Mea rl
Germaben I C os me ti c p r e s e r v a t i v e S u t t o n
Germaben 11-E C os me ti c p r e s e r v a t i v e S u t t o n
Germal l
I 1
D i
azo1
i
i n y l u r ea S u t t o n
Germal l
1 1 5
I m i d a zo l i n y l u r ea S u t t o n
Geropon SBFA-30 Rhone
Ginkgo B i 1oba Vern i n
Givaudan PSC 10,435/6 Fragrance G i vaudan
Glucam E-10 Etho xy l a t ed me thyl g lucos ides Amercho l
Glucam P-20 Pr opo xy la t ed meth y l g l uc os id es Amercho l
G1 ucamate DOE-I
20
PEG-120 methyl g lu co se d i o l e a t e Amerchol
G1 ucamate SSE-20 E t h o x y l a t e d me th yl g l uc os id es Amerchol
G lucamate SSG-20 A1 k y l a t e d meth y l g l uc os id e e s t e r Amercho l
G lu ca te DO Meth y l g l uc os id e es te r Amerc ho 1
G l u c a t e
S S
Meth y l g l uc os id e es te r Arne
r
cho 1
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Trade Named Raw Materials 497
RAW MATERIALS
Glucopon 425 C S
Glucopon 600 CSUP
Glucopon 625
CSUP
Glucquat 100
G lyd a n t
G l yd a n t P l u s
G lyp u re 7 0 %
GMS S E
G r i
1 locam E-20
G r i
1 o t e n LSE-65K
G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K
G r i l l o t e n PSE 141G
Hai
r
Complex Aquosum
Hamamel i s Speci a1
Hamp-ene Na4
Hamp-ene 220
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
DMDM hyda n to i n
G l y c o l i c a c i d
G l yce ro l M o n o s te a ra te
S E
M e th y l g l u ce th -2 0
Sucrose cocoate
Sucrose cocoate
Su c ro se s te a ra te
T e t ra so d
T e t r a s o d
um EDTA
um EDTA
Herbal Fragrance SL 79-1224
H e t e s t e r HCA G l y c e r y l t r i a c e t y l h ydr ox y-
s t ea r a t
e
He te st e r HCP PPG-3 hydrogenated c a st o r o i l
H i -S i1 T -600
Ho rse -ch e s tn u t Sp e c ia l
H os ta c er i n PN73
SOURCE
Amerchol
Ame r c ho1
Arne r c ho1
Amerchol
Lonza
Lonza
Stepan
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
CLR
Dragoco
Hampshi r e
Hampshi r e
PFW
Be rn e l
Be rn e l
PPG
Dragoco
Hoechst
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498 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW
MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Hostap ha t KL340N Hoec hs t
Hydrogenated Po ly is ob ut en e Amoco
Hydro1yzed S i 1
k
P r o t e i n I keda
H y d r o t r i t i c u m
WAA
H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2000
Hydroxy01
Hygropl ex HHG
H y s t a r
CG
Hys t re n e
5016
Igepon AC78
Imwi to r 780K
I m w i t o r 900
I m w i t o r
960
F l a k e s
In c ro c a s 40
Incrodet TD-7C
Incromate OLL
Incromate SEL
Wheat amino a c i d s Croda
Wheat p r o t e i n h yd ro l yz a te s C ro da
Malmstrom
C L R
Hydrogena ted s ta rch hyd ro lysa te Lonza
F a t t y a c i d Humko
A ni on s u r f a c t a n t
I s o s t e a r y l d i g l y c e r y l s u cc in at e
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e S E
PEG-40 ca s t o r o i l
T r id e ce t h- 7 c a r b o x y l i c a c i d
01 vamidop ro py l d ime thy lam ine
1 a c t a t e
Sesamidopropy l d imethy lamine
1 a c t a t e
I S P
Hul
s
Hul
s
Hul
s
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
I nc r om e c ta nt AMEA-70 Ace tami de
MEA
Croda
In cr om ec ta nt AMEA-100 Ace tami de
MEA
Croda
In cr om ec ta nt LAMEA Ace tami de MEA (and ) l ac tamide
MEA
Croda
Inc ro m ide ALD A1 mondami de DEA Croda
I nc r om id e BAD Babassuamide DEA Croda
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Trade Named Raw Materials 499
R A W MA TE R I A LS
I n c r o m i d e
CA
I n c r o m i d e
CAC
I n c r o m i d e L R
I n c r o m i d e
WGD
I n c ro m in e BB
Inc rom i ne Oxide WG
Incronam AL-30
Incronam WG-30
Incronam
30
Incropol CS-20
Incropol SC-20
Incroquat BA-85
C H E M I C A L D E S C R I P T I O N
Cocamide
DEA
Cocamide DEA c o c o y l s a r c o s i n e
Lauram i de DEA
Wheat germamide
DEA
Behenamidopropyl d imethylamine
Wheat germami do pr op yl o x i d e
Almondami do pr op yl b e t a i ne
Wheat germamidopropyl beta ine
Cocamidopropy l b e t a i ne
Ce te a re th -2 0
E t h o x y l a t e d a l c o h o l
Babassuami dop ro pa l k on i um
c h l o r i d e
In c ro q u a t Be h e n y l
TMS
Behen t r imon ium methosu l fa te
( an d) c e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
I n c r o q u a t
CR
Conc. Ce te a ry l a l co ho l (and) P E G - 4 0
SOURCE
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
c a s t or o i 1 ( an d) - s t e a r a l kon i um
c h l o r i d e
I n c r o q u a t
0-50
Olea1 kon ium c h l o r i d e Croda
I n c r o q u a t S-85 St e a r a l kon ium c h l o r i d e C roda
In d o p o l H - 1 0 0 Vis cous po ly bu te ne Amoco
I r g a s a n
DP300
B a c t e r i o s t a t
C i
ba-Gei gy
I r o n Oxid e Brown 7058 Warner-3enk
I r o n O xi de Y e l lo w 7055 Warner-Jenk
I s o p a r H I s o p a r a f f i n s o l v e n t Exxon
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5 osmetic
and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERI ALS CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON SOURCE
I sopr opy l an
5
I s opr opyl es t er
of
l anol i n Arne r cho
1
I var l an 3230 Lanol i n o i l Br ooks
I vy Spec i al Dr agoco
3 13 AT Tal c
J er gens Type R- 30318 Fr agr ance
Kaopol i t e SF Pol i shi ng powder
Kaopol i t e
TLC
Pol i shi ng powder
Kaopol i t e
1147
Pol i shi ng powder
Kar i on
F
Kat hon CG Met hyi c hl or i s ot hi azol i none
( and) Met hyl i s ot hi azol i none
Kel t r ol Xant han gun1
Kel t r ol
F
Xant han gun1
Kel t r ol RD Xan t han gum
Kel t r ol T Xant han gum
Kel t r ol TF Xant han gum
Kel zan Xant han
gum
Kel zan AR Xant han gum
Kessco Et hy l ene Gl ycol Di s t ear at e
Kessco Gl ycer yl Monost ear at e
Kessco- 653 Fat t y est er
Kest er Wax K- 48 Sper macet i
Kest er Wax 62
Kaopol i t e
Kaopol i t e
Kaop o
1
t e
E. Mer ck
R o hm&
Kel co
Kel co
Kel co
Ke
1
co
Ke
1co
Kel co
Kel co
St epan
St epan
St epan
Koster
Koster
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Trade Named Raw Materials 501
RAW MATERIALS
Kes te r
Wax
1 0 0
Kester Wax 8 5
K l u c e l G F
K l u c e l
MF
K o r t h i x H
K y t a m e r KC
L a m e p o n S
L a n e t o
5 0
L a n e t o 100
L a n e t t e
L a n e t t e N
L a n e t t e
1 6
L a n o g e n e
L a n o l i n U SP
C H E M I C A L D E S C R I P T I O N
H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e
H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e
T h i c k e n i n g a g e n t
P o l y q u a t e r n i u rn-29
P r o t e i n s u r f a c t a n t
P E G-7 5 1 a n a 1 n
P E G -7 5 1 a n o l i n
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
C r e a m b a s e
o / w
C e t y l a l c o h o l
L a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i 1
L a n o l i n - X - t r a D e o d o r i z e d
L a n t h a n o l L A L F o a m i n g a g e n t
L a n t r o l L i q u i d l a n o l i n
L e x a i n e C C o c o a m i d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e
L e x a m i n e
S - 1 3
Stearami d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l a m i n e
L e x a t e I L C o n c e n t r a t e / b l e n d
SOURCE
Koster
Koste r
A q u a l o n
A q u a l o n
K a o p o l i t e
A m e r c h o 1
H e n k e l
R i t a
R i t a
H e n k e l
H e n k e l
H e n k e 1
A m e r c h o l
R i t a
R i t a
S t e p a n
H e n k e l
I n o l e x
I n o l e x
I n o l e x
L e x a t e PX P e t r o l a t u m a n d ) l a n o l i n a l c o h o l I n o l e x
L e x e i n
QX-3000
Q u a t e r n i u m - 7 6 h y d r o l y z e d c o l l a g e n I n o l e x
L e x e m u l AR G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e a n d ) s t e a r - I n o l e x
a m i d o e t h y l d i e t h y l a m i n e
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502 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERI ALS
Lexemul C S - 2 0
Lexemul EGMS
Lexemul GDL
Lexemul
P
Lexemul T
Lexemul 55G
Lexemul 515
Lexemul
561
Lexgar d
8
Lexgar d Br onopol
Lexgar d
M
Lexgar d P
Lexol BS
Lexol EHS
Lexol GT- 865
Lexol PG
8/ 10
Lexol PG- 865
Lexol
3975
Lexor ez
100
Lexquat AMG- BE0
CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON
Cet ear yl al cohol ( and) cet -
ear et h- 20
G1 ycol st ear at e
Gl ycer yl di l aur at e
Emu1
si f i
er
Gl yc er yl s t ear at e S E
Gl yc er yl s t ear at e
G 1 yc er yl s t ear at e
Gl ycer y l st ear at e ( and) PEG- 100
But yl par aben
2-bromo-2-nitropropane-l,3-diol
Met hyl par aben
Pr opyl par aben
I s obut yl s t ear at e
Oc t yl s t ear at e
Capr y l i c / capr i c t r i gl ycer i de
Emol
1 i
ent
Pr opyl ene gl yc ol di c apr yl at e/
s tea ra te
di capr at e
I s opr opyl pal m t at e ( and) i s o-
pr opy l myr i s t a t e ( and)
i so
pr opyl s t ear at e
Gl yc er i ne/ di et hyl ene gl yc ol /
Behenam dopr opyl PG di moni um
adi pat e cr osspol ymer
chl or i de
SOURCE
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol
ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
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Trade Named Raw Materials 503
RAW MATERIALS
Lexquat A M G - I S
Lime Blossom Specia l
L i p a c i d e PCO
L i p of r u i
t
Cucumber
L ip o n a te
S S
L i p o v o l A
L i p o v o l ALM
L i p o v o l P
L i popeg
100 S
L i p o x o l 600 MED
L i quapar
L i q u i d Coconut Soap,
Locron L
Lo M ic ron B lack
Lo M ic ron P ink
Lo
M i c r o n Y e l l o w
Lonzest 143/S
L u v i s k o l VA64
L u v i s k o l 1 VA73W
L u v i t o l
EHO
L y t r o n 295
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Is os te ar am i dop ro pyl -PG-di moni urn I n o l ex
c h l o r i d e
P a l m i t o y l h y d r o l y z e d an im al
p r o t e i n
S t e a r y l s t e a r a t e
N a t u r a l v e g et ab l e o i 1
Almond o i l
N a t u r a l v e g e ta b l e o i 1
P ol yo xy et hy le ne f a t t y a c i d
e s t e r
PEG- 1 2
P r e s e r v a t i v e
40%
I r o n o x i de s (and) t a l c
I r o n o xi de s ( and) t a l c
I r o n o xi de s ( and) t a l c
M y r i s t y l p r o p i on a t e
P o l y v i n y l p y r r o l i d o n e
PVP/VA copolymer
S yn th e t i c o i l
Opaci
f
r
Dragoco
L i O
L i po
L i PO
L i PO
L i PO
L i
PO
L i DO
Hul
s
S u t t o n
L a u r e l
Henkel
Whi t t a k e r
Whi t t a k e r
Whi
t t a k e r
Lonza
BASF
BASF
BASF
Morton
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504 Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
Mac ka
Mac ka
RAW MATERIALS
Mackadet BSC
Mackadet CBC
Mackadet LCB
Mackadet SBC-8
Mackade t WGS
Mackadet 40K
Mackalene NLC
Mackal ene 116
Mackalene 316
Mackal ene 326
ene 426
ene 716
Mackam CET
Mac kam WGB
Mackam 2C
Mackam 35
Mackam 35HP
Mackami de AME-100
Mackamide C
Mackami de CMA
Mackamide CS
Mackami de LLM
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Baby shampoo concentrate
C o n d i t i o n e r c o n c e n t r a t e
C o n d i t i o n e r c o n c e n t r a t e
M i I d b le n d
L a c t a t e s
Cocami do pr op yl d i me th yl ami ne
l a c t a t e
Stearami dopropy l d imethy lam i ne
1a c t a t e
Stea ramidop ropy l morpho l ine
l a c t a t e
I s o s t e a r a m i d op r o p y l m o r p h o l i n e
1a c t a t e
Wheat germami do pr op yl d i me th yl
-
ami ne 1 a c t a t e
C e t y l b e t a i ne
Wheat germamidopropyl b e t a i ne
Cocoamphodiacetate
Cocoami do pr op yl be ta
Cocoami do pr op yl b e t a
Acetamide M EA
Cocamide DEA
Cocamide MEA
Cocamide
DEA
Lauram i de DEA
ne
ne
SOURCE
McIn t y r e
M c I n t y r e
Mc I n ty r e
Mc I n t y r e
Mc I nt y r e
Mc
I
n t y e
McI n t y r e
M c I n t y r e
McI n t y r e
McIn t y r e
McI n t y r e
McIn t y r e
Mc
I
n t y r e
Mc y r e
McInt y r e
Mc I n
t
y r e
McIn t y r e
Mc y r e
Mc t y r e
Mc In t y re
Mc I nt y r e
Mc I n y r e
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506 Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Mackpear l L V
Mackpro NLP
Mackpro NSP
M a cks ta t DM
Macol CPS
M a c r o s p h e r i c a l
95
Magnabr i t e
M a g n a b r i t e S
Maprof x TLS-500
Marco l 70
Marcol 130
M a r i ne-Dew
Marlamide DF1218
Marlamid M1218
Marlamid PG20
M a r l a z i n KC 30/50
Mar
Mar
Mar
Mar
i n a t CM 105
i n a t DFK 30
i n a t DFN 3 0
i n a t SL 3/40
Mar l a t 242 /28
M a r l a t 242/70
Marlon PS65
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Pear l agen t
N a tu r a l l i p i d p r o t e i n
01e y l p a l m i y l p a l
m i
o 1 amido-
p r o p y l / s i l k h yd r ox y pr o py l
d imoni um c h l o r i d e
DMDM h y d a n t o i n
P ol yo xy et hy le ne f a t t y e t h e r
A luminum ch lo rohyd ra te
S t a b i
1
i ng, suspend ing agent
Magnesi u m a1 umi num s i 1 a t e
T r i e t ha no la mi ne l a u r y l s u l f a t e
M in er a l o i l
M in er al o i l
P a r t i a1 1 y d e a c e t y l a t e d c h i
t i
n
Cocamide
DEA
Cocamide DEA
Cocamide
MEA
g l y c o l d i t a l l o w a t e
Cocot
r i
moni um c h l o r e
Sodium l a u r e t h - 1 1 c a r b o x y l a t e
Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Ammonium l a u r y l su l f a t e
D is od iu m l a u r e t h s u l f o s u c c i n a t e
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
So di um C13-C17 a1 kane s u l o n a t e
SOURCE
Mc In y r e
Mc I n y r e
McI
n
y r e
M c
I
n
y r e
PPG
Rehei
s
Am
C o l l o i d
Wh
t
a ke r
Onyx
Exxon
Exxon
A j omoto
Hu l s
Hul s
Hul s
Hu ls
Hul s
Hul
s
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Hu ls
H u l s
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Trade Named Raw Materials
507
RAW
M A T E R I A L S C H E M I C A L
D E S C R I P T I O N
Marlophor MOB-acid Lau ret h-3 phosphate
Mar loohor T lON a-sa l t Sodium d i s t ea re th -1 0 phosphate
Mar 1owet LMA2
Mar lowet R l I / K
Mar lowet R 4 0 / K
Marlowet TA6
Marlowet TA25
M a s i l SF-V F l u i d
Masi l 280
Masi l 656
Maypon 4C
Mazox C A P A
Mearl -AC
Merkur 1546
Merquat
100
Merquat 550
Methocel E4M
Methocel F4M
Methocel
40-
M i c r o - d r y
M i croencapsu
L a u re th -2
P E G - I 1 c as to r o i l
PEG-40 ca s t o r o i l
Ce te a re th -6
Ceteare th -25
Cyc lometh icone
D im e th i co n e co p o l yo l
S i 1 i co n e
Po ta ss i urn co co yl -hydro1 yzed
c o l 1 agen
Cocarni do pr op yl ami ne ox id e
Powdered pear l p igment
Vase1 e t y p e
Po ly qu at er n i urn-6
Pol yq u at er ni urn-7
H y dr ox y pr op yl m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
H y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
Hydroxypropy l methy lc e l l u l ose
A 1 umi num c h l or oh yd ra te powder
a te d V i t a m in
E
HC487
M ic ro n i ze d T i 0 2 LA-20 T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e
M ig l yo l G e l B Ca pry l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e
SOURCE
Hul s
Hul s
Hul
s
Hul s
Hu ls
Hul
s
Hul s
PPG
PPG
PPG
I n o l e x
PPG
Mear l
Cal gon
Cal gon
Dow
Dow
Dovi
Rehei
s
Hul s
(and ) s t ea ra l kon ium (and)
p r o py l e ne c a rb o na t e h e c t o r i t e
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508 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW
MATER ALS CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON
Mi gl yol
812
Capr yl c/ capr i c t r i gl yc er i de
Mi gl yol 829 Capr yl i c / c apr i c / di gl yc er yl
succ i nat e
Mi gl yol
840
Pr opy l ene gl ycol di capr yl at e
Mi ner al Col l oi d BP Mont mor i l l oni t e
Mi ner al Oi l
7
Mi ner al Oi l 9
Mi r anol C2M Conc. NP
Cocoamphocarboxyg lyc inate
M r anol Es t er PO- LM4 Pol ypent aer yt hr i t yl t et r a-
l aur at e
Mi r anol MHT Laur oamphogl yci nat e ( and)
t r i decet h
sul f at e
M r anol 2MHT Modi f i ed I m dazol i ne amphot er i c
M r asheen
202
M r at ai ne
BET
C- 30 Cocam dopr opyl bet ai ne
M r at ai ne BET 0- 30 Ol eam dopr opyl bet ai ne
Mi r at ai ne CB Sur f ace ac t i ve agent
Modul an Acet y l at ed l anol i n
Monaf ax 160 Phosphat e est er
Monaf ax 785 Phosphat e est er
SOURCE
Hul s
Hul
s
Hul s
ECC
Penr eco
Penr eco
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Arne r c ho
Mona
Mona
Monamat e LNT- 40 Di ammoni um l aur yl sul f osucci nat e
Mona
Monam d CMA Cocam de MEA Mona
Monam d SOADD Cocam de DEA Mona
Monam d
7 5
Cocam de DEA Mona
Monar ni d
716
Laur am de DEA Mona
Monam d
1089
A1 kanol am de Mona
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Trade Named Raw Materials 509
RAW MATERIALS
Monami ne
1255
Monamulse DL-1273
Monaquat T G
Monaterge
1164
M o n a t e r i c
C A B
Monateric CLV
M o n a t e r i c COAB
Mowiol 10-98
M u l s i f a n CPA
M ul s i f an RT 2 0 3 8 0
Muls i fan RT275
Mu1t i wax
W-835
Myacide
S P
M y r i t o l
PG
Myr j 52
Myr j 52s
Myvatex 60
M yvatex T e x tu r e L i t e
Myvero l
18-06
N a t r o s o l 250 HHR
N a t r o s o l 250 HR
Naturechem GMHS
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N SOURCE
A 1 kan ol ami de Mona
Mona
D ih yd ro x ye th y l d i h yd ro x yp r o p y l Mona
s tea rammon ium ch lo r ide
Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e (a nd ) Mona
d is od iu m l a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e
Cocami dopr opy l b e t a i ne
P o l y v i n y l a lc o h o l r e s i n
M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e wax
2 , 4 - d i c h l o r o b e n z y l a l c o h o l
P ro py le ne g l y c o l d i c a p r y l a t e
P o l y ox e t h yl e n e s t e a r a t e
PEG-50 stearate
Emul s i i r
Emul s i f r
Hydrog en ated soy g l y c e r i d e
H yd ro xy et hy l c e l l u l o se
H y dr ox ye th yl c e l l u l o s e
Ca s to r o i l d e r i v a t i v e
Mona
Mona
Mona
Hoechst
Zschi mmer
Zschi mmer
Zschi mmer
i t c o
I n o l e x
IC1
I C 1
Eastman
Aqua l on
Aqual o n
Caschem
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510 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW
MATERIALS
C H E M I C A L
DESCRIPTION
N a t u r e H a r v e s t 1 6 5- 05 0 F r a g r a n c e
Neobee
M- 5
C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e
N eo H e l iopan ,
AV
O c ty l ni ethoxy c in nan ia t e
N eo H e l iopan , BB Benzophenone-3
Neo Hel iopan , Type
El 000
Neo H e l i o p a n , H yd ro P h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e s u l f o n i c
a c i d
N eo H e l iopan ,
MA
M enthy l a n t h r a n i l a t e
Neo
H e l i o p a n ,
MBC
N eo H e l iopan ,
O S
Neo H e l i o p a n , 3 03 O c t o c r y l i n e
N i k k o l L e c i n o l
S- 10- M
N i k k o l
MYS- 55
PEG-55
s t e a r a t e
N i k k o l WCB
N i m l e s t e r o l
N i n o l AA-62 E x t r a Foam s t a b i l i z e r
N in ol 49-CE Cocainide
D E A
N ip as t a t P a ra b e ns
Novarome DE-47 F r a g r a n c e
Novarome DE5
1
Per f ume
Novarome F ra g r a n c e CD-69
N o v i l l e 1184504 Fr ag r a nc e
SOURCE
S t r p a n
Ha a
r ili
n
Haarman
Haarman
Ha
a
rnian
Ha
ar
ilia
n
Haarman
Ha a
r
ilia
n
Ha
a
riiian
N i k k o l
Nikko
Nikko
Malnis
t
roni
S t e p a n
S t e p a n
Nipa
Nova rome
Nova
r
oine
Novaronie
N o v i l l e
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Trade Named Raw Materials 511
RAW MATERI ALS CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON
Oct p r ox Pi r oc t one al am ne
Or gasol 2 0 0 2 D Nat ur a l Ext r a Cos Ny l on- 12
Oxaban A Pr eser vat i ve
Oxet al
VD20
Oxynex K L i qui d Ant i ox i dant
Oxynex 2004 Ant i oxi dant
Oxypon 288
Oxypon 328
Oxypon 2145
Oys t er Nut Oi l
Oz oker i t e Waxes
Oz oker i t e Waxes
Oz oker i t e Waxes
Padi mat e
Panal ane
Pant heno1
Par agon
Par cel MCX
Par i c i n 9
Par s ol
HS
Par s ol MCX
Par s ol
1789
Par s ol 5000
Oct yl di met hyl PABA
Hydr ogenat ed pol yi sobut ene
D1- Pant henol Cosmet i c Gr ade
DMDM hydant oi n ( and) met hyl
par aben
Fat t y ac i d es t er
UV- B sunsc r een
Oct yl met hoxyci nnamat e
UV- A sunsc r een
UV- B sunsc r een
SOURCE
Hoechst
At ochem
Angus
Z
chi mne r
Zs
ch mne r
Zs
ch mme r
Zsc hi mmer
Z
ch mme r
Zs chi mmer
Kos te r
I nt Wax
Kos te r
Ross
Amoco
Roche
Mc I nt yr e
Gi vaudan
CasChem
Gi vaudan
Gi vaudan
Gi vaudan
Gi vaudan
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512
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW
MATERI A L S
P a t i o n i c I S L
P a t i o n i c I S L / 8 5
P a t i o n i c S S L
P a t l a c I L
P a t l a c
L A
(44%)
PC 9043
PC 9044
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Sodi urn o s t e a r y l 1a c t y l a t e
Sodium i s o s t e a r y l l a c t y l a t e @ 8 5 %
Sodium s t e a r o y l l a c t y l a t e
I s o s t e a ry l l a c t a t e
L a c t i c a c i d
S i
1 one emu1 s i on
S i 1
i
one emu1
si
on
PC
9045
S i
1 c o n e emu
PC 9046 S i 1 c o n e emu
PC 9047 S i 1 c o n e emu
PC 9048
S i
1 c o n e emu
PCV 1454 F rag ran ce
PEG-120 Met hyl Glu cose D i q l e a t e
s i on
s i
on
s i on
s i on
Pemulen TR-I Po lymer emul s i r
Pemulen TR-2 P o ly m e ri c emul s i
f
r
Permul g i n 3220 Custom bl en de d wax
Penreco M ine ra l O i l 9
Pep te i n 2000x1 Hyd ro ly zed co l l ag en
Pe r f ec ta USP Pe t r o la tu m
Perfume
D i
n a l aya 129,051
Perfume 44575
P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055
Per1g l anzmi t t e l
GM
41 75
Perm ethy l 104A A1 h a t i c hydrocarbon
SOURCE
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
R i t a
Goodr i ch
Goodr i ch
K o s t e r
Penreco
Hormel
i t c o
F r i s ch e
Zsch i mmer
Zsch i mmer
Pe rme
t
h y 1
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Trade Named Raw Materials
513
RAW
MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
P e r t Type 189-724 Frag ranc e
P e t r o l a t u m A l b a
Per1 g l anzmi t t e l GM4175
Phenoni p
Phos fe ta l 201 K
Phosphol i d EFA B iom ime t i c ph os ph o l ip id
Phosphol i d PTC B i omi me t i c phos phol i d
P h o s p h o l i p i d
SV
B i omi met phosphol i d
Ph os ph ot er ic PTC
P ho sp ho te ri c QL-38 T r is od iu m lauroampho PG
a c e t a t e p ho sp ha te c h l o r i d e
Pigment
p a s te w h i t e :
N r .
93975
P igment pa s t e ye l l ow : N r . 75577
Pigment
p a s t e r e d :
N r .
68775
Pigment
p a s te b l a c k : N r . 78375
P l u r o n i c F-127 P o l y o x y a l k y l e n e g l y c o l b l o c k
po lymer
PNC
400 Sodi
urn carbomer
Pol awax E m u l s i f y i n g wax NF
Polawax A - 3 1 Em u l s i f y i n g wax NF
P o l y a l d o 10-1-5 P o l y g l y c e r y l - I O s t e a r a t e
Po l ya l do
10-6-0
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 1 0 h e x a o l e a t e
Polymer J R 400
P o l y o x WSR Wate r so lub
Po lyqu ta -400 Po lyqua te rn
P o l y q u t a 3000 P o l y q u a t e r n
e r e s i n
u m I O
urn-10
SOURCE
i t c o
Zsch i mmer
Ni pa
Zsch i mmer
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
B A S F
3v
Croda
Croda
Lonza
Lonza
Union Carb
Union Carb
R i t a
R i t a
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514 Cosmetic and Toiletry
Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
P o l y s o r b a t e 60
Pol ys yn l ane
P r i s o r i n e 3505
P r i s o r i n e 3515
P r i s o r i ne 9083
P r o c e t y l AWS
Prodew 100
Promoi s W-32
Promoi s
WK
Promoi s
WK-HQ
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e
(20)
s o r b i t a n
monosteara te
Hyd ro g e n a te d p o l y i so b u te n e
G1 y c e r i ne
G1 y c e r e
G1y c e r i e
PPG-5 C e t e t h 20
S o r b i t o l
&
Sod ium Lacta te &
P r o l i n e & Sodium PCA &
Hyd ro l yze d Co l l a g e n
H y d r o l y z e d c o l l a g e n
H y dr o ly z ed k e r a t i n
Hyd ro xyp ro p y l t
r i
moni um
hydro1y ze d k e r a t i n
SOURCE
I C 1
P o l y e s t h e r
Un i chema
Unichema
Uni chema
Croda
A j omoto
R i t a
R
R
Promulgen D C e t e a r y l Alcohol(and)Ceteareth-20
t a
t a
Ame r cho 1
Promyr i s t y l PM3 PPG-3 my r i s t y l e t he r
P ron a la n A n t i c e l l u l i t e
P r o p e l l a n t A-46 H y dr oc ar bo n p r o p e l l a n t
P r o p o l i s Wax
P r o t o p e t
1s
P e t r o l a t u m
Pro tope t 2A Pe t r o la tu m
Pr o to x T-25 Eth oxy l a t e d ami ne
Purasal S/SP
60%
Sodi u m l a c t a t e
Pur . Navy B lue 7110
Pu r Oxy Ye l l o w BC & Pur Oxy B la c k BC Pig me nt
Croda
Cen t e r chem
K o s t e r
i t c o
i
c o
Protomeen
Purac Amer
Whi t t a k e r
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Trade Named Raw Materials 515
RAW MATERIALS
Pu r to n
CFD
Pu r to n SFD
PVP-K-30 PV P
Pyro te r CPI-40
Pyro te r GPI-25
Raluben TL
Resyn 26-1 314
Resyn 28-291 3
Resyn 28-2930
Rewomi d S-280
Rezal 36G
Rezal 36GP
Rheo la te 5000
Rhodacal A-246/L
Rhodapex MA-360
Rhodapon L-22
Rhodapon L S B
Rhodapon LT 6
Rhodapon SB
8208/S
Rhodapon
21
L S
Rhodi ge l
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Zsch i mmer
Zsch i mmer
ISP
A j omoto
A j i omoto
Ha i r sp ra y p o l ym e r
H a i r sp ra y p o lym er
Ha i r sp ra y p o l ym e r
A1 Z r t e t r a c h l o r o h y dr e x , g l y
A 1
Z r
t e t r a c h lo r o h y d r ex , g l y
Super u l t r a f i n e ,
Acry la te /Va copo lymer
E th er s u l f a t e
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
Xanthan gum
Rhodorsi 1 O i 1s 70041 V O .
65
Rh o d o rs i l
700
45V2 Cyclomethicone
Raschi g
Na t S ta rch
Na t S ta rch
Na t S ta rch
Rewo
Rehei s
Rehei
s
Rehei s
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
V a n d e r b i l t
Rhone
Rhone
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5 6
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW
MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Rice B ra n O i l F i l t e r e d K os te r
R i t a b a t e 20
R i a-BTAC
R i t a
C A
R i
t a c e t
2 0
R i a - C e t e a r y l 70 /30
R i a c e t i
R i
a c e t y l
R i a c h o l
R i t a c h o l I 0 0 0
R i tacho l 2000
R i a c h o l 5000
R i a-CTAC
R i aderm
R i t a EGDS
R i a EGMS
R i t a GC
R i t a
GMS
R i a h y d r o x
R i a l an
R i t a l a n AWS
R i t a l a n
C
R i t a l a s t i n EL30
Po l y so rb a te 20
Be he nt r moni um c h l
o r
e
C e t y l a l c o h o l
Ce tea re th -20
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
C e t y l e s t e r s
A c e t y l a t e d
1
anol n
M in er a l o i l and l a n o l i n
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
a l c oh o l R i t a
R i t ae t e a r y l a l c o h o l ( an d) p o l y -
s o r b a t e 60 (and) PEG-150
s t e a r a t e ( a nd ) s t e a r e th - 2 0
R . T . A . b l e n d
R . I . T . A . b l e n d
C e t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e
P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d )
sodiu m PCA (a nd)
G l yc o l d i s t e a r a t e
G l y c ol s t e a r a t e
G u a n id i n e ca rb o n a te
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
Hydroxy la ted 1anol n
a n o l i n ( a n d
p o l y s o r b a t e
L a n o l i n o i
PPG-12-PEG
R . I . T . A . b
Hydro1yzed
65 l a n o
end
e l a s t i n
i n o i l
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
85
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
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Trade Named Raw Materials 5
7
RAW MATERIALS
R i t a l o e
4 O X
Rita loe 200M
R i t a m i d e C
R i t a p a n D
Ri ta pa n DL
R i apeg 1500s
R i
aphenone
3
Ri ta p ro 1 6 5
R i t a p r o 200
R i t a SA
R i a-SBC
R i a-STAC
R i t a s y n t IP
R i
avena-5
R i
awax
Ritawax ALA
R i t o l e t h 5
R i t o l e t h - 1 0
R i to x 3 5
Robane
Rosemary Sp ec i a1
Rosswaxes
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
A l o e v e r a g e l
A l o e v e r a g e l
Cocamide DEA
d-Pantheno l
d l - P a n t h e n o l
PEG-150 d i s te ar a t e
Benzophenone-3
R , I . T . A . b l e n d
R . I . T . A . b l e n d
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e
S t e a r t r i moni um c h l o r i d e
G l y c o l s t e a r a t e a nd o t h e r s
H yd ro ly ze d o a t f l o u r
L an ol n a l c o h o l
R . I . T . A . b l e n d
O le th -5
01e th -10
Laure th -23
Squal ane
Waxes
SOURCE
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
Robeco
Dragoco
Ross
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518
Cosmetic
and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERI ALS CHEMI CAL DESCRI PTI ON
Sal on 169- 122 Fr agr ance
Sandopan DTC Ac i d Tr i decet h- 7- car boxyl i c ac i d
Sandobet SC Cocam dopr opyl hydr oxysul t ai ne
Sandoxyl at e SX- 424 PPG- 2- i sodecet h- 12
Set ac i n 103 Spec i al
SF 18 ( 350) s i l i cone Di met hi cone
Shea But t er
Shebu Shea but t er
Shebu WS PEG- 50 shea but t er
Shel l s ol T Pet r ol eum di st i at es
Shel l s ol
71
Pet r o l eum di s t i l l at es
Si comet Bl ack
80
C. I . 77499
Si comet Br own 70 C. I . 77491
Si comet Br own 75 C. I . 77491
Si comet Pat ent bl au BOE 131 Pat ent Bl ue
Si
i
cone 200/ 100
Si l i cone F l ui d DC- 200 ( 200 cps )
Si l i c one Fl ui d 225
Si l i c one Fl ui d 344 and 345 ( Vol at i l e)
S ki ence Type 169- 120 Fr agr ance
Si
i
cony1 Beeswax
Si l t ex
- 50 + o0
Mesh Fused s i l i ca
Si mchi
n
Ref ned J oj oba oi l
Si pon
ES
Sodi um l aur yl et her s ul f at e
SOURCE
Sandoz
Sandoz
Sandoz
Zschi mm-
Dow Cor n
Koster
Ri t a
Ri t a
Shel
Shel
BASF
BASF
BASF
BASF
Dow Cor n
Dow Cor n
Dow Cor n
Dow Cor n
Koster
Kaopol
Ri t a
Rhone
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Trade Named Raw Materials 519
S o f t
S o f t
S o f t
RAW MATERIALS
Sipon ES-2
Sipon ESY
S i ponate DD8-40
Sipon L C P
SL 79-1224
S o f t i g e n
701
S o f t i g e n
767
san
100
san 154
san 378
S o f t i s a n 601
So f t i sa n 6 4 5 & 649
Solar Chem
S o l t r o l 100
Solulan PB5
So lu l a n 1 6
So lu lan 25
S o l u l a n 98
S o l u v i t CLR
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
A1 k y l a r y l s u l f o n a t e
Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Herba l f rag rance
G ly ce ry l r i c i n o l e a t e
PEG-6 ca p r y l / c ap r i c g l y-
c e r i d es
Hydrogena ted coco -g lyce r ides
Hydrog en ated pa lm o i l
C apr yl i c / c a p r i c / s t e a r i c
t r i g l y c e r i d e
G ly ce ry l co co a te (a nd ) h yd ro -
g en ated cocoa nu t o i l ( a nd )
ce te a re th -2 5
B i s - d i g l y c e r y l c a p ry l a te /
caprate/isostearate/hydroxy-
s t e a r a t e a d i p a t e
~ 9 - 1 1s o p a r a f f i n
SOURCE
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
PFW
Hul s
Hul s
Hu ls
Hu l s
Hul
s
Hu ls
Hul s
Caschem
Phi 11 p s
A1 koxy l a ted 1 ano l d e r i v a t i v e Amercho l
Laneth-16 & c e t e t h 1 6
&
Arne r cho 1
o l e t h - 1 6 & s t e a r e t h - 1 6
Laneth-25 & c e t e t h - 2 5 & Amer c ho1
o l e t h - 2 5 & s t e a r e t h - 2 5
P o l y s o r b a t e 80, ace ty la ted Amercho l
1 anol i a1 coho1
,
c e t y l
a c e t a t e
CLR
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520 Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Sorbo
Span
60
Span 65
Span
80
Spermwax
S pi c y Lime 4851-AN
S & P Wh i te NF 422P
S&P
1
Yel low 73
S & P 18
S & P
75
Span 40
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
S or bi t o 1 s o l u t i on,
U S P
E m u l s i f y i n g a g e n t
E m u l s i f y i n g a g e n t
Emu1 s i y i ng agen t
Syn th e t i c sp e rm a ce t i
Fragrance
Beeswax
Carnauba wax
M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 e wax
Candel 11a wax
S o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e
Standapo
Standapo
Standapo
E S - 2 Sodi um
ES-3 Sodi urn
WAQ-LC Sodi urn
Squeeky Clean 165-047 Fragrance
Standapo l
E A - 2
Ammonium la u r e t h s u l f a t e
Standapol E S - I Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
a ur e t h- 2 s u l f a t e
a ur et h- 3 s u l f a t e
a u r y l s u l f a t e
Stepano l AM Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
S t i n g i n g N e t t l e S pe ci al
Super Corona Lux ury USP l a n o l i n
Supe rsat AWS-4 PEG-20 hydr ogen ated l a n o l i n
Syncrowax
E R C L
C18-36 a c i d g l y c o l e s t e r
Syncrowax HGLC C1B-36 a c i d t r i g l y c e r i d e
S i l i c o n O i l AK500
SOURCE
I C 1
IC1
IC1
I C 1
Robeco
I F F
I C 1
Henkel
Hen k e l
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Stepan
Dragoco
Croda
R i t a
Croda
Croda
sws
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Trade Named Raw Materials
521
RAW M A T E R I A L S CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
SOURCE
Sipon
E S 2
Sodium l a u re th s u l f a t e Rhone
Sedermasome Soy l e c i t h i n
S M D I Pol yo1 prep01ymer -2 PPG- 12
So f t i sa n 3 7 8
Sol u lan-75
Spectrapear l BLG
S p e c t r a v e i l
TG
Sp e c t ra ve i
1
9O/MOTG
SS4267
Standamid K O
Standamide
T
Standapol ES-l&ES-2
Standapol ES-3
Standapo T
Standapo
WAQ&WAQ-SP
Sul f e t a l KT400
Su l fe ta l TC50
Sunarome OMC
Super Amide
L-9
Super H ar to l an
C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c / s t e a r i c Hul s
t r i g l y c e r i d e
PEG 7 5 l a n o l i n Arne r c ho
1
Pear l escen t p igmen t I S P
U l t r a - f i n e ZnO T i o x i de
U l t r a - f i n e Zn0(40% s o l i d s D i s p ) T i o x i d e
D i meth one and
t
r methy l -
s i l o x y s i l i c a t e
Cocamide
D E A
Tea ls
Sodi um l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
Sodi um l a u r e t h s u l f a t e 2890
T EA -l au ry l s u l f a t e
Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Coconut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l
ami de
L a n o l i n a l c o h o l
GE S i l i c o n e
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Zschi mmer
Zschi mmer
F e l o n
Onyx
Croda
Super R ef in e d Babassu O i l
Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ
O i l
Super S t e r o l Es te r C10-30 Ch o le s te ro l / L a n e s t e ro l Es te r s
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522 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
SOURCE
AW MATERIALS CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
Super Whi te Pe t ro la t um U S P
S u t t o c i d e
A
Sod i um hydroxymethy l g l y c i na t e Su t to n
Syncrowax
A w l - C
S y n th e t i c wax Croda
Syncrowax HGL-C C18-36 a c i
d t r i
g l yc er e Croda
S y n t h e t i c Beeswax JH-1508 Ross
T A B S - D
Tagat
S
Takasago
Ta lc Supra
A
Tamol N
Tapioca F1o u r
Teg in M
Tegin T4753
Tego beta i ne L-7
Teg. P
Tenox & Tenox 4
Tenox BHA
Tensagex EOC-670
Te rg i t o 1 NP-10
T e r r y AGO02
T i caxan
Timbuktu 0/186901
T i m i
r o n MP-10
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
Organ i c emu1 s i
f r
Cocami dop rop yl b e t a i ne
A n t i o x i d a n t
BHA
S u r f a c t a n t
A lo e ve ra g e l
Xanthan gum
Fragrance
I n t e r f e r e n c e p i g m e n t
Union Camp
Goldschmid to l ub i
1
er
Fragrance
Premium t a l c , coar se ground Cyprus
Dispersant Rohm&Haas
Na t S ta rch
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go ldschmid t
Go1 dschmi d t
Eastman
Eastman
I C 1
Union Carb
T e r r y
T i c Gums
Rona Pearl
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Trade Named Raw Materials 523
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Ti in i r on
P e a r l
S h e e n MP-30 I n t e r f e r e n c e P i gm e n t
T i m ir o n S u p e r Red I n t e r f e r e n c e P i gm e nt
T i o v e i i AQ/FIN/MOTG U l t r a - f i n e t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e
TL- 10
PEG-20 s o r b i t a n m o n o l a u r a t e
T o c o p h e r o l
Toiiiah A 0 - 7 2 8 S p e c i a l
T r i i s o l S o l u b le w h e a t p r o t e i n
Tr iven t N P- 13
&
SS-20 T r i d e c y l n e o p e n ta n o a te
T r y c o l 5 9 6 3 Este r
Tween
2
P o l y s o r b a t e
2 0
Tween
4 0
P o l y s o r b a t e
4 0
Tween 6 0 P o l y s o r b a t e 6 0
Tween 6 1 P o l y o xy e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n
iiionos t e a r a t e
Tween
8 0
P o l y s o r b a t e
8 0
Tween
8 1
P o l y o xy e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n
inonoolea
t e
Tween 8 5 E m u l s i f y i n g a g e n t
U n i p e r t a n P 2 4
Usnat A0
U v i n u l
E 40
U v i n u l
M S 4 0
U v i n u l
0-18
A n t i - d a n d r u f f
Benzophenone-3
Benzophenone-4
O c ty l s a l i c y l a t e
SOURCE
Rona
Rona
T i o x i d e
R i t a
Tomah
Croda
T r i v e n t
H enke l
I C 1
I C 1
I C1
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
L i p 0
BASF
BASF
BASF
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524
Cosmetic
and
Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Vancl ay
Van Gel B
Vanox PCX
Vanseal CS
Vanseal NACS-30
Vansael NALS-30
Veegurn/F/HV/Pro/
Regul ar/U1 t r a
Velsan P8-3
Veragel
Verage l
Verage l
Ve rsa t y
Versene
L i q u i d
L i q u id 1 : l
2 0 0
Powder
-42
N A
Versene-220
CHEMICAL
D E S C R I P T I O N
K a o l i n
BHT
S a rc o si na t e s u r f a c t a n t
Sodi urn c o c oy l s a r c o s i n a t e
S a rc o si na t e s u r f a c t a n t
Magnesi u m a1 umi nurn s i 1 a t e
Is op ro py l C12-15 Pare th -9-
Ca rb o xy l a t e
A l o e v e r a g e l
A l o e v e r a g e l
A l o e v e r a
H a i r s p r a y PO
D i so d i urn E D T A
C h e l a t i n g a g e n t
ymer
V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e Type PIMO/BH
V i t a m i n E Tocophero l
V i t a m i n E Ace ta te T o co p he rol a ce ta t e
V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e 7207 C y cl om et hi co ne
Volpo 3 01 eth -3
Volpo 5 01 et h- 5
Vo lpo s -2 S tea re th -2
V O l D O
s-10
S te a re th -1 0
SOURCE
Vanderb i 1t
V a n d e r b i l t
Vanderb i 1t
V a n d e r b i l t
V a n d e r b i l t
V a n d e r b i l t
V a n d e r b i l t
Sandoz
D r .
Madis
D r . Madis
D r .
Madis
Na t S ta rch
Dow
Dow
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
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Trade Named Raw Materials 525
RAW
MATERIALS
Wachsemulsion 1864
Wheat Germ O i l
Wh i te Jo j o b a O i l
Wh i te P ro to p e t
Wh i te P ro to p e t I S
Wickenol 163
Wickenol 386
i
t c o n a t e AOS
Ye l lo w BC I r o n Oxides
2-Cote
Z e te so l
MS
Z e te so l N L
Zetesol 856T
Zeteso l 2056
Zuso l a t 1005/85
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Zschi mmer
R i t a
Ross
P e tr o la tu m P e t r o l e
P e tr o la tu m P e t r o l e
D io c t y l a d i p a t e (a nd ) o c t y l Caschem
s t e a r a t e ( and ) o c t y l p a l m i t a t e
Alumi num z i r c o n i um t e t r a - Caschem
c h l o r o h y d r e x G l y
Sodium C14-16 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e W i t c o
Warner
Sun Smart
Zschimmer
Zschi mmer
Zschimmer
Zschi mmer
Zsch i mmer
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Section
XIV
Suppl iers Addresses
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Suppliers Addresses 527
A j i n o m o t o USA , I n c .
G l e n p o i n t
C t r . W
500
Frank W B u r r B l v d .
Teaneck, NJ 07645
201) - 907- 3244
Akzo Chemica ls , I n c .
300
S .
R i v e r s i d e P l az a
Chicago,
I L
60606
312) - 906- 7500
A l l i e d S ig n a l , I n c .
P . O . Box
2332R
M o rr i s town, NJ
07962
201) - 455- 2000
A l p in e A ro m at i c s I n t ' l I n c .
51 E t h e l
R d . W
Piscataway, NJ 08854
908) - 572- 5600
Amerchol Corp.
P . O .
Box
4051
136
Talmadge Rd.
Edison, NJ
08818
908) - 248- 6000
Amer ican C o l l o i d Co.
Hwy
212W
B e l l e F o u r c h e , S D 57717
A m e r i c a n L e c i t h i n
Co
33 Turner Rd.
P . O .
Box
1908
Danbury, CT 06813
605) - 892- 2591
203) - 790- 2700
Amoco Chemical
C o
200 E Randolph
D r .
Chicago,
I L
60601
312)-856-3200/ 800)-621-4567
Angus Chemical Co.
1500 E .
Lake Cook Rd.
B u f f a l o Grove, I L
60089
708)-215-8600/ 800)-323-6209
Aqua1
on
1313
N .
Market S t .
Wi l m i n g t o n , D E 19899
302)-594-5000/ 800)-345-8104
Atochem N o r th Amer ica
900
M i l k
S t .
C a r t a r e t , N J
07008
908) 541 - 4414
BASF Corp.
100 Ch e r r y
H i l l
Rd.
P a rs i ppany, NJ 07054
( 201 ) -316 -3000 / (800 ) -526 -1072
Bern e l Chemical Co . , I n c .
174
Grand Ave.
Englewood, NJ 07631
201) - 569- 8934
B rooks I n d u s t r i e s , I n c .
70
T y l e r P la c e
S ou th P l a i n f i e l d , NJ
07080
908) - 561- 5200
Buckman L a b o r a to r i e s I n t ' l I n c .
1256 N . McLean Blvd.
Memphis, TN 38108
901)-278-0330/ 800)-727-2772
Cabot Corp.
Cab-0-Si
1 D i
v .
R t e . 36W
T us co la , I L 61953
217)-253-3370/ 800)-222-6745
Calgon Corp.
P . O . Box
1346
P i t t s bu rg h , PA
15230
41 2) 777- 8000
CasChem, I n c .
40 Avenue
A
Bayonne, NJ
07002
201)-858-7900/ 800)-CAS-CHEM
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5 8 Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
Cente rchem, I n c .
225
High R idge
R d .
Sta mf or d, CT
06905
203) - 975- 9800
C i
ba-Gei gy Cor p.
410
Swing Rd.
Greensboro, NC 27419
919) - 632- 7327/ 800) - 221- 0453
CLE I n c .
11220
Grader
S t ,
D a l l a s ,
T X 75238
214) - 341- 4949/ 800) - 638- 7947
CLR: D r .
K .
R i c h t e r GmbH
Chemi sche s L a b o r a t o r i um
Be n n i g o n s t r a b e 25,
D -I00 0 B e r l i n
Cro d a , I n c .
7
Ce n t u r y
D r .
Pa rs i p p a n y ,
N J 07054
201) - 644- 4900
C y c l o P r od u ct s I n c .
1922
E .
64
S t .
Los Angeles,
CA
90001
21 3) 582- 641
C ypru s I n d u s t r i a 1 M i n e r a l s
P.0, Box 3419
Englewood,
CO
80155
800) - 325- 0299
Degussa Corp.
65
Ch a l l e n g e r
R d .
R i d g e f i e l d P ar k,
N J
07660
201) - 641 - 61
00
Dow Chemical USA
2 0 2 0
Dow Center
M i d l a n d ,
M I 48674
800)-258-CHEM
Dow C o rn in g Co rp.
Box 0994
M i d l a n d , M I 48686
51
7 )
- 496- 4000
Dra g o c o , I n c .
10 G o rd e n Dr i v e
Totowa, NJ 07512
201) - 256- 3850
Eastman Chemical
Co
P . O . Box 431
K i ng sp or t , TN 37662
615) - 229- 4006/ 800j - EASTMAN
ECC America
5775
Peachtree-Dunwoody
R d .
A t l a n t a ,
GA
30342
800) - 843- 3222
Exxon Chemi c a l Amer ca s
13501
Katy Frwy
Houston, T X 77079
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ o ~ o o o
Fann ing Corp .
2450 W
Hubbard
S t
C hic ag o, I L 60612
312) - 563- 1234
F e l t o n W o rl dw i de
599 Johnson Ave.
B r o o k l y n ,
NY
11237
F i n e t ex , I n c .
418 Falmouth Ave.
Elmwood Park, N J 07407
201 - 797- 4686
F l o r i d a Food P ro d u ct s I n c .
2231 W
Hwy
44
Eu s t i s , FL
32726
904) - 357- 4141
F r i t s c h e Dodge O l c o t t I n c .
76
N i n t h A ve.
New York, NY 10011
212)-929-4100/ 800)-221-7095
GE
S i
1 c o n e s
260
Hudson River
R d .
W at er fo rd , NY
12188
518) - 237- 3330/ 800) - 255- 8886
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Suppliers Addresses 5 9
Givaudan-Roure Corp.
100 Delawanna Ave.
C l i f t o n ,
N J
07015
(201)-365-8000
Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Co rp.
914 E . Randolph Rd.
Hopewel l ,
VA
23860
( 8 0 4 ) - 5 4 1 - 8 6 5 8 / ( 8 0 0 ) - 4 4 5 - 1 8 0 9
B . F .
Goodr i ch
Co .
991 1 Br ec ks v i 1 e Rd.
C le v e la n d , OH 44141
( 216 ) -447 -5000 / (800 ) -331 -1144
Haarman Reimer Co rp .
60 Diamond Rd.
S p r i n g f i e l d ,
N J
07091
( 201 ) -912 -5707 / (800 ) -432 -1559
Hampshi r e Chemi c a l Co.
55
Hayden Ave.
L e x i n g t o n ,
MA
02173
Henkel Corp.
11501 Nor th lake
D r .
C i
n c i n n a t i , OH 45299
( 5 1 3 ) - 5 3 0 - 7 3 0 0 / ( 8 0 0 ) - 5 4 3 - 7 3 7 0
Hoechst Cel anese Corp .
3340
W
N o r f o l k R d .
Por tsmouth , VA 23703
(804) -483-7530/ (800) -526-4960
Hormel
P.O. Box 800
A u s t i n , MN 55912
H u l s A m er ic a, I n c .
8 0 Ce n t e n n i a l
D r .
P i scataway, NJ 08854
Humko Chemical D i v .
W i t c o Co rp .
755 Crossover Lane
Memphis, TN 38117
(901)-684-7047
(507)-437-5676
(908 ) -980 -6946 / (800 ) -526 -0339
I C 1
A m e r i c a s I n c .
Con cord P ik e New Murphy Rd.
W i l m i
ng ton ,
DE
19897
3 0 2 ) - 5 7 5 - 3 0 3 4 / 8 0 0 ) - 8 2 2 - 8 2 1 5
I k e d a Co rp .
New Me xico B ld g . 3-1,
Mar unou ch 3-Chome
Chiyoda-Ku, Tokyo 100, Japan
03-321 2-8791
I n o l e x Chemica l Co.
Jackson Swanson S t s .
P h i l a d e lp h ia , PA 19148
( 2 1 5 ) - 2 7 1 - 0 8 0 0 / ( 8 0 0 ) - 5 2 1 - 9 8 9 1
ISP: I n t e r n a t i o n a l S p e c i a l t y Pro d
1361 Alps Rd.
Wayne, NJ 07470
( 2 0 1 ) - 6 2 8 - 3 0 0 0 / ( 8 0 0 ) - 8 4 8 - 7 6 5 9
I F F : I n t e r n a t i o n a l F l av o rs
Frag rances
521
W 5 7
S t .
New Yo rk , NY 10019
(212)-765-5500
K a o p o l i t e I n c .
2444 M o r r i s Ave .
Union, NJ 07083
(908)-789-0609
K e lc o D i v .
Merck Co. , I n c .
8 3 5 5 Ae ro D r i v e
San D ie go, CA 92123
( 619 ) -292 -4900 / (800 ) -535 -2656
Kos te r -Keunen , Inc .
P.O. Box 447
90
Bourne B l vd .
S a y v i l l e , NY 11782
(516) -589-0456
L a na e te x P r o d u c t s , I n c .
151
3
Ave.
E l i zabe th , NJ 07206
(908)-351-9700
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53
Cosm etic and Toiletry Formulations
L a ur e l I n d u s t r i e s , I n c .
29525
C h a g r i n B l v d .
C l e v e l a n d ,
OH 44122
216)-831-5747/ 800)-221-1304
L i p 0 C he mi ca ls , I n c .
207
1 9t h Ave.
Paterson, NJ
07504
201)-345-8600
L o n z a , I n c .
17-17
Rt e .
208
F a i r Lawn, NJ
07410
201)-794-2400/ 800)-777-1875
D r .
M a d i s L a b s I n c .
375
H u y l e r
S t .
So uth Hackensack, NJ
07606
M c I n t y r e Group L t d .
1000
Governors Hwy.
U n i v e r s i t y Park, I L
60466
201)-440-5000
708)-534-6200
Mear l Corp .
41
E.
42
S t .
New York,
NY
10017
21 )-573-8500
Mobay Corp.
Mobay
R d .
P i t t s b u r gh , PA
15205
Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c .
76
E .
24
St.
P . O . Box
425
Paterson, NJ
07544
412)-777-2000/ 800)-662-2927
201)-345-8220
M o r f l e x I n c .
2110
High Po in t Rd .
Greensboro, NC
27403
919)-292-1781
Morton I n t e r n a t i o n a l , I n c .
150
Andover
S t .
Danvers,
MA 01923
508)-774-3100
Na t i on a l S t a r ch Chemica l Co
10
F inderne Ave .
Br idgewate r , NJ
08807
908)-685-5000/ 800)-532-1115
N ip a L a b o r a to r i e s , I n c .
104
Ha g l e y B l d g .
Con cord P1 aza
3411
S i l v e r s i d e Rd.
W i l m i n g t o n , DE
19810
302)-478-1522
Novarome I n c .
30
Stewar t P1 ,
F a i r f i e l d , NJ
07004
201)-575-4550
N o v i l l e E s se n t i a l
O i l
Co.
1312
F i f t h S t .
N or th Bergen, NJ
07047
201)-867-9060
Pen re co
138
P e t r o l i a
S t .
Karns C i t y , PA
16041
412)-283-5600/ 800)-245-3952
P e t r o l i t e Corp .
6910
E .
14 S t .
Tu l s a ,
OK 74112
91 8 ) 836-1 01
P h i l l i p s
66
Co.
376
P h i l l i p s B l dg . Annex
B a r t 1e s v i 11e, OK
74004
806)-274-5236/ 800)-858-4327
Po l y e s t h e r Co rp .
61 H i l l
S t .
P . O .
Drawer
5076
Southampton,
NY 11969
516)-2a3-4400
PPG I n d u s t r i e s
3938
P o r e t t D r i v e
G urne e, I L
60031
708)-244-3410/ 8OO)-CHEM-PPG
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Suppliers Addresses
531
Purac Amer ica I n c .
B a r c l a y B l v d .
L i n c o l n s h i r e C o r p o r at e C e nt er
L i nc o ln s h i r e , I L
60069
708)-634-6330
Raschi g Corp .
P . O . Box
7656
Richmond,
VA 23231
804)-222-9516
Re h e i s , I n c ,
Rona
EM I n d u s t r i e s
S k y l i n e D r i v e
Hawthorne,
NY 10532
914)-592-4660
Sandoz Chemi c a l
s
Corp.
4000
Monroe
R d .
C ha r l o t te , NC
28205
704)-331-7234/ 800)-631-8077
S h e l l Chemical Co.