Copyright 2010 › prodetail › Secrets+Of+Automotive+Claying.pdfproduct". To this day, detailing clay is the only product that removes over spray effortlessly without harming the

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Copyright 2010 www.Car-Scratch-Remover.com

http://www.car-scratch-remover.com

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Contents

The History of Automotive Clay: ................................................................................................................... 3

What is Automotive Clay? ................................................................................................................................ 3

Types of Clay: ........................................................................................................................................................ 4

Clay Lubricant: ...................................................................................................................................................... 5

Revolutionary Alternative to Traditional Automotive Clay (Righteous Rubber): ................... 5

How Does Automotive Clay Work? .............................................................................................................. 6

What Does Detailing Clay Remove? ............................................................................................................. 6

Do I Need to Clay MY Car? ................................................................................................................................ 7

How To Clay My Car: .......................................................................................................................................... 7

The Techinque of Claying: ................................................................................................................................ 8

FAQ ............................................................................................................................................................................. 9



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This special report exposes everything you need to know about automotive claying. It is a subject that has lots of myths and faulty information, just look on any automotive forum and you will see what I mean! It really is an awesome technique anyone can do which removes microscopic imbedded contaminants in your car paint that over time can cause defects in your paint. The contaminants can come from anywhere, factories, brake dust, sap, rail dust (from railroad wheels while new cars are being transported) which is present on brand new cars sitting on a dealers lot before you even take it home!

This special report takes the mystery out of claying and hopefully will inspire you to take a crack at it… I guaranteed you will be glad you did!

The History of Automotive Clay:

Automotive clay resin was invented and patented in 1990 by Tadao Kadate of Japan. It was the first and only product to remove airborne contaminants safely and economically from delicate automotive paint. It was proclaimed a "miracle product". To this day, detailing clay is the only product that removes over spray effortlessly without harming the paint finish. The clay bar techniques is used in the detailing, and collision repair shop industries to remove paint over spray, and just about any other airborne contaminant you can think of on a car paint finish. Something that is not widely known is that it works exceptionally well on window glass, plastic and rubber trim and many metals.

What is Automotive Clay?

An automotive clay bar is an engineered resin compound used to remove contaminants from the surface car paint, window glass, rubber and plastic trim, fiberglass and metal. Detailing clay is typically a synthetic product today. At first glance, auto detailing clay looks similar to kid’s clay however, detailing clay is more elastic (or more properly termed “plastic”). This property allows detailing clay excellent durability as it is flattened and stretched repeatedly. Children’s clay will tend to crumble because it lacks the special “plastic” formula. This amazing petroleum resin product contains mild abrasives. These abrasives are extremely small and mixed in with a powdered synthetic detergent. This patented product contains abrasives like silica sand, calcium carbonate, alumina, and ceramics. Nearly all traditional automotive clay comes from the same few factories in Japan.

Myth debunked… clay bars are not abrasive. No matter what you have heard, this is incorrect. They are all abrasive. They come in various levels of aggressiveness due to different abrasive formulations. I will elaborate on this later in this special report.

Typically clay is only recommended to be used twice a year however, recently a few companies are marketing ultra fine grade clay that can be used more frequently for the truly obsessed enthusiast. If your car has never been clayed and does not have severe contaminants like very old overspray etc use a medium duty formula. The fine and ultra fine are intended for a paint finish that is in very good to excellent condition. You will not hurt your finish by choosing a heavy duty formula… however by sticking to the cardinal rule of professional auto body refinishers “Use the least abrasive method or formula first and if that did not give you the results you are after move up to the next level”.



It’s like my dad, the master bbq’r used to say when he was cooking steaks on the bbq, “I can always cook it a little more… but I can’t un‐cook it”! Same goes with your car paint finish… you can always step it up just a bit more… but you cannot undo something.

Types of Clay:

Here is a general list of colors and what level of abrasive they are. NOTE: this is not definitive and there is no industry color code standard so check with the manufacturer to be sure!

The three most common colors of clay are Grey, Blue and Purple. In my opinion they are all you will ever need.

These clays are typical of professional packaging and are not usually found in auto parts stores etc. Your best bet is to source them online and there are numerous sources. They are usually about 200 grams in weight.

The purple round piece is what you will make from the cut off piece to the right, which is either a ¼ or 1/3 of a full bar.

Red‐Extremely aggressive sometimes called “hot” (I would not use a Red formula unless you are very familiar with automotive finish restoration and clay bar technique, I have heard second hand stories of inexperienced people going through a clear coat with red clay).

The following formulas are typical and safe to use even for a newbie.

Purple‐ Aggressive, (popular). Grey ‐ Medium. Blue‐ Light / Medium, less aggressive (very popular). Yellow – Light / Medium duty Blue green (turquoise) ‐ ultra fine… designed for the truly obsessed that clay at every wash (this is only for paint in extremely good condition). It is said that this formula does not strip wax however I would still use a sealant or wax no matter what type of clay you use.

Note: Purple and / or blue clay will be a good choice for just about every application and I suggest if you decide to jump in with both feet and treat your car to a claying, buy both a purple and a blue bar. Try the blue first in an area then try the purple and compare the results. This way you can decide which you like best… soon you will become the expert, on claying in your circle of friends.

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Clay Lubricant:

Automotive clay bar technique requires a special lubricant for the clay to glide on the surface of whatever it is you are treating; paint, rubber, plastic, window glass or metal. The clay needs to glide smoothly to “shave” off and pick up contaminants. The lubricant also helps suspend contaminants while you are working. If you use clay dry or allow the paint to get dry while working the clay will smear and cause excessive surface marring.

Claying lubricants are typically synthetic and have superior wetting agents that form a liquid cushion between the clay and the surface that is being worked on. Some companies sell *“detailing sprays” for a lubricant and they work just fine and other companies make specific clay lubricants. Basically the two are very similar in formulation however the clay lubricant specific product may not have luster enhancers like a detail spray. A luster enhancer in a clay lubricant is unnecessary because you will be waxing or using a sealant after claying the car anyway.

*A “detail spray” is a product that is used to quickly “bump” the luster of a car in between car washing and waxing. They have emulsifiers which loosen up dirt and dust then suspend it so it can be safely wiped off with a micro fiber towel. Typically they have a liquid wax that is left behind which is lightly buffed giving the car a “just waxed” look in very little time.

Revolutionary Alternative to Traditional Automotive Clay (Righteous Rubber):

Enter a new era for removing airborne contaminants that are imbedded in car paint finishes and other surfaces. A couple of years ago a product was invented and patented to challenge traditional automotive clay. This product is relatively unknown because it is still very new to the market. It is a black block like sponge with a patented polymer rubber coating on one side that performs the same task as automotive clay. However it has some very important advantages that set it apart from traditional clay. For one thing, it is more ergonomic and easier to hold than a flattened round piece of clay (which is very important when you are using it on side body panels). You also don’t need to do all the folding and kneading that traditional clay requires. Perhaps the best feature is that if you should drop it on the ground, simply rinse under the faucet and you are good to go. With traditional clay… if you drop your piece on the ground, it must go straight into the trash can… no ifs ands or buts about it. Since you usually cut a traditional 8oz piece of clay in four pieces and they run about $20… you basically have to throw out about $5 in the trash. Now this doesn’t hurt so bad if your piece of clay was used a bit, however when it happens to be a fresh piece, you may just let out a few expletives… don’t ask me how I know this... it happens to everyone. This unique clay alternative falls roughly in the same category as Purple traditional clay, which happens to be a very popular formulation.



Righteous Rubber by Car Scratch Remover is a revolutionary alternative to traditional clay.

It’s part of what makes the CSR scratch remover superior to any other scratch remover on the market… because claying the area is the professional way to prep paint for fast and accurate scratch removal.

It just so happens that your Righteous Rubber can “clay” your entire car 10 times before it loses effectiveness. Therefore not only can you clay your car several times…you can remove dozens and dozens of scratches along the way before it ever wears out!

If you are reading this, then you are lucky because every Car Scratch Remover Kit comes with a Righteous Rubber with patented cutting edge polymer technology. This is just one of the unique advantages that set CSR apart from every other scratch remover on the market. It truly is the professional advantage to removing scratches quickly and permanently by properly preparing the scratch area.

Your Righteous Rubber will last for a long time prepping scratches however I will let you in on a secret. If you decide you want to step up your level of car care and clay your car… you can use your Righteous Rubber on your entire car about 10 times before it will lose its effectiveness. If you decide to use it on your whole car to get a smooth as glass finish, don’t forget you will need to follow up with a good sealant or wax since just like traditional clay it strips the wax from the paint finish. If you do this, you will be blown away by how much better your car will look and feel. It is dramatic! Here is another tip… there is enough Sacred Shine Sealant to do your entire car. If you decide to do this (and don’t have a full bottle of Sacred Shine any more) because you have been removing scratches, drop me an email and we can figure something out. I have a soft spot for the adventurous auto enthusiast!

How Does Automotive Clay Work?

This also applies to the revolutionary Righteous Rubber clay alternative. Automotive clay floats or glides on the paint finish with the help of a special lubricant. The clay picks up or shears off imbedded contaminants on the paint surface and the particles stick to the clay. It is extremely important that the proper lubricant be used with traditional clay and a product like the Righteous Rubber clay alternative, either of them will mar the paint surface if used dry. The clay technique is completely safe and yields exceptional results when done properly.

What Does Detailing Clay Remove?

Depending on what type of contaminant it is, the clay will either shave it off or completely remove it. In the case of rail dust, claying will shave off the protruding contaminants. Rail dust from the metal train wheels during shipment is airborne sintered metal that actually penetrates into the paint. Brake dust from day to day driving is much like rail dust and penetrates into the paint. In the case of overspray clay completely removes it. Also industrial pollution, fallout from factories etc. is similar to overspray and is completely removed by the claying technique. Claying will also remove tree sap, tar, and bug remains… just make sure you soften them up with lubricant.

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HOT TIP: Next time you wash your car, try your Righteous Rubber on the windshield and windows… you will be amazed. Dunk your Righteous Rubber in your bucket of sudsy car shampoo (like the Supreme Car Wash Shampoo that came with your Car Wash Bonus) and lightly rub the windshield and windows… the bugs will disappear like magic.

Do I Need to Clay MY Car?

Chances are the answer is yes and most vehicles should be clayed twice a year. All of the surfaces of your car are assaulted by the environment every day, it’s just a fact of life. Here is an easy test you can do to get your answer.

Take a clear plastic sandwich bag and put your hand inside, gently wipe it over sections of your car. If the surface feels gritty… your car is a good candidate for a claying. The bag makes your fingers more sensitive to the invisible contaminants.

Claying is absolutely the best way to prep a car paint finish for wax or a sealant because they will bond better and your paint will look more uniform and lustrous.

How to Clay Your Car:

NOTE: This process also applies to the Righteous Rubber by CSR.

Clay bars come in 8oz bars some in 4oz. An average traditional clay bar will do about 5‐10 cars. If you used your Righteous Rubber you could do your car completely about 10 times. Always store traditional clay in an air tight container and spray it with the lubricant before storage. The Righteous Rubber by CSR only needs to be stored in the original plastic baggie to keep it dust and dirt free. Keep both from freezing or temperatures over 100 F.

Traditional clay: DO NOT use soap and water for a lubricant with a traditional clay bar, it will break down the clay and make it unusable.

Righteous Rubber: You may hear that it is OK to use a high quality car shampoo as a lubricant for a product like the Righteous Rubber. This is only true if you are using it on car windows or hard chrome or metal. It is always safest to use Purple Glide that came with your Car Scratch Remover kit (or a quality detail spray) if you decide to use the Righteous Rubber on your entire car.

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The Technique of Claying:

Wash and dry your vehicle with a high quality car shampoo like the CSR Supreme Car Wash Shampoo that came with your Car Wash Bonus.

Bring your car under shade or into a garage and wait until the surface is cool to the touch if it’s a hot day!

I prefer not to clay on very hot days because it tends to make the lubricant evaporate quickly, requiring excessive spraying. It just seems to be wasteful of lubricant not to mention risking hitting a dry spot as you work along the sides of the car.

If you are using traditional clay, you need to cut 1/3 or a ¼ of the bar off, then kneed and flatten it in to a circle about 2” in diameter. If you have a Righteous Rubber you get to skip this step!

DO NOT lay the clay on anything that is not ABSOLUTELY HOSPITAL CLEAN! It will pick up anything and everything from a dusty or dirty surface. This applies to Righteous Rubber too!

If you are doing the entire car, work from the top to the bottom.

Use very light pressure on the clay… let it glide!

Spray lubricant on a 2’x2’ section and lightly rub the clay back and forth in the wet area. It will grab at first. This means that it is pulling contaminants out of the paint. When it glides freely, the paint is clean.

Wipe that area dry with a micro fiber towel and lightly rub your fingers across the paint now. It should be smooooooth and if it’s not, repeat while keeping the area well lubricated.

As contaminants begin to fill the surface of the clay, fold it in half, then kneed and press into a 2” circle thus exposing two new fresh sides. Repeat this as necessary as you work around the car. Note: Occasionally run the Righteous Rubber under the tap to rinse off any contaminants on its surface.

As you do the sides of the car pay attention… this is where you can lose the clay!

Keep it up until you have finished the entire car!

When you store traditional clay you need to put it in an air tight container and spray it with lubricant prior to sealing it up for storage. If you have a Righteous Rubber all you need to do is put it in the original plastic bag or a zip lock bag just to keep dirt and dust away. It does not need to be stored in a air tight container.

After using traditional clay or the Righteous Rubber you must seal the paint with a quality sealant or wax.

Note: A sealant is different than a wax because it is a formulation that actually bonds to the paint thus it protects much longer than an ordinary wax. However most expensive sealants (like Sacred Shine Sealant) have high tech polymers to seal and protect the paint PLUS 100% Carnauba wax to give a superior shine and luster.

Note: Claying paint will not remove scratches, swirls or oxidation by itself… however it is a fantastic and professional way of preparing to correct paint problems!



1. Beyond clay – If you desire to remove scratches, swirls or oxidation this is the perfect time to do it BEFORE you wax or seal!

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Keep the paint surface wet with lubricant. You can use Purple Glide that came with your CSR kit or a quality detail spray from any auto parts store.

Righteous Rubber uses the same technique…let it do the work with a light touch on the wet surface.

Lightly glide traditional clay over the wet surface. Let the clay do the work check the clay frequently and fold and knead to expose fresh surfaces as needed.

FAQ

Q: How do I tell if my car needs claying? A: Use the sandwich bag test. Place your hand in a clear sandwich bag and LIGHTLY rub on the paint surface. If it feels gritty your car is a good candidate for claying. Q: How much does regular traditional clay cost? A: You can find kits with clay and lubricant for approximately $30‐$40 dollars. This might sound like a lot however a typical clay bar will do your car 5‐10 times. Q: Can I clay out doors? A: NO! It is very important that the lubricant not dry as you clay the paint surface therefore it is best to clay in a garage or protected place. Q: Will claying remove wax? A: Yes and you must ALWAYS wax or use a sealant after claying. Q: Can I clay too much?


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A: A typical car only needs to be clayed twice a year… if you stick to this you have nothing to worry about and you paint will look fantastic year round! Q: Will claying remove scratches, swirls and oxidation? A: NO! Claying will only remove imbedded contaminants on your paint. However claying is the professional secret to preparing a car finish for correcting defects such as scratches, swirls and oxidation. After the paint is corrected with the appropriate formulas and accessories, then it requires a good sealant or wax to properly seal and protect the paint finish. Q: I just dropped my clay on the ground can I just wipe it off and use it again? A: NO! If you drop traditional clay on the ground you MUST THROW IT AWAY! I will pick up dirt and grit and then scratch your paint if you try to use it. Q: I just dropped my Righteous Rubber on the ground what do I do? A: Don’t worry! Just rinse it well under a faucet and make sure there is no grit on the rubber surface or in the sponge. Once you are sure it is perfectly clean you are good to go again!! Q: My clay seems to smear? A: Most likely you are not using enough lubricant or perhaps the clay picked up oily residue. Fold and knead the clay to produce two fresh sides and try again with a little more lubricant. Q: If I use my Righteous Rubber to clay my entire car, how many times will it last? A: Your Righteous Rubber by CSR will clay a car about 10 times before it becomes ineffective. Therefore not only can you it use dozens and dozens of times for scratch removal you can also clay your car several times! Q: How frequently should I clay my car? A: The recommended frequency to clay a car is twice a year. Q: Do I need to wax or use a sealant after claying? A: YES! All clay and Righteous Rubber remove wax therefore it is necessary to wax or apply a quality sealant to the paint finish after claying. Q: Can I use soap and water as a lubricant for claying with traditional clay? A: NO! Soap and water will deteriorated traditional clay making ineffective. Q: Can I use soap and water as a lubricant with my Righteous Rubber by CSR? A: You can use a quality car shampoo as a lubricant for the Righteous Rubber but ONLY for car windows. Soap and water will not harm the Righteous Rubber! However we highly recommend you only use Purple Glide or a quality detail spray if you decide to use the Righteous Rubber on your paint finish. Q: Can I use clay from the hobby store? A: NO! Modeling clay is not the same type of formulation as automotive clay.



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Copyright 2010 › prodetail › Secrets+Of+Automotive+Claying.pdfproduct". To this day, detailing clay is the only product that removes over spray effortlessly without harming the