Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
Cationic conditionersthat revitalize hairand skin
ConditioningDeposition
MoisturizationFilm Formation
UCARE PolymersConditioning
Moisturization
2
The introduction of UCARE™ polymers over twenty years ago started a revolution in the development of multifunctional personal care products.The unique properties of UCARE Polymer JR pioneered the delivery of aconditioner from a surfactant system, and conditioning shampoos were born.
Today, UCARE polymers (INCI Name: Polyquaternium-10) are at work in a variety of personal care products as cationic, water-soluble, substantive conditioners. Highly versatile, UCARE polymers are compatible with a widerange of anionic, amphoteric, nonionic and cationic systems. And, they areformulation flexible to suit any conditioning requirement.
The key to the unique cationic conditioning properties of UCARE polymersis their ability to repair damaged protein substrates. Used primarily in haircare applications, they migrate directly to the point of damage to mend split-ends. Hair that has been permed or bleached is greatly enhanced with just asingle application of a shampoo containing a UCARE polymer. A variety of grades, viscosities and degrees of substantivity allows you to select the functionality and aesthetics best suited to the goals of your product. There’seven a UCARE polymer grade that’s perfect for daily use shampoo products.
UCARE polymers have other advantages that have helped make them marketfavorites. Because they are nonirritating to the eye, they are ideal for inclusionin shampoos and facial cleansers. UCARE polymers also act as anti-irritants.So, they’re more than just mild. They can actually reduce the irritancy of surfactants and other harsh ingredients in your product.
But, UCARE polymers aren’t just for shampoos. In body washes, liquid soapsystems and bar soaps, the film forming properties of UCARE polymers canenhance the efficacy of moisturizers. In addition, films formed by UCAREpolymers effectively reduce moisture vapor transmission.
Cationic conditioners that repairhair and moisturize skin
3
Benefits of UCARE polymers:In Shampoo and Hair Care Systems, UCARE polymers:
• Are substantive
• Mend split-ends and frizzies
• Form clear, continuous, nontacky films
• Bring excellent wet combability to hair
• Improve appearance and feel of damaged hair
• Provide controlled conditioning
• Will not irritate the eyes
• Reduce eye irritation of surfactants
• Provide controlled delivery of insoluble actives
In Cleansing and Skin Care Systems, UCARE polymers:
• Are substantive
• Help reduce moisture vapor transmission
• Deliver an elegant after-feel
• Ameliorate inflammatory skin reactions
• Mitigate Pseudofolliculitis barbae
• Are nonirritating
• Reduce the irritation potential of surfactants and other ingredients
• Help restore barrier function of skin
• Enhance the efficacy of UV absorbers
In Formulations, UCARE polymers:
• Enable the formulation of clear products
• Are compatible with a wide variety of surfactants
• Exhibit non-Newtonian, pseudoplastic properties
• Are nontoxic
• Offer higher molecular weight grades that contribute to viscosity
• Support “natural” label claims
4
UCARE polymers have a cellulosic backbone derived from natural, renewableresources. Most often, the starting material is cotton or wood. UCARE polymers are polymeric, quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulosereacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide.
Cellulose is a straight chain polymer consisting of anhydroglucose sugarslinked by ß-1,4 bonds. Each anhydroglucose sugar monomer has three available hydroxyl (-OH) groups. Cellulose, in its original state, has a regular,hydrogen-bonded, crystalline structure which is not readily water soluble.The addition of the hydroxyethyl groups on the cellulose backbone alters the crystalline structure and transforms the polymer into a water-soluble,easy-to-use product.
Quaternization of hydroxyethylcellulose results in the creation of multiplecationic sites to which the anionic head groups in a surfactant will be attracted.
Because shampooing or washing is typically done above the critical micelleconcentration (CMC) in order to remove dirt and oil from the hair or skin,the UCARE polymers stay solubilized during the cleaning process. Uponrinsing, however, the shampoo, soap or body wash is diluted near its CMCand the polymer is deposited as the surfactant is rinsed away. Figure 2 illustrates this phenomenon.
Figure 2: Mechanism of Dilution Deposition(Polyquaternium-10 with Anionic Surfactant)
Good-natured chemistry from a fullrange of product grades
Figure 1: The Idealized Structureof UCARE Polymers
Cl-(H3C3)+N
N+(CH3)3CI-
OH
HO
O
O
HO
HO
OH
OH
OH
HO
HOOH
OH
HO
HO
O
OO
O
OO
OO
O
O
OO
O
OO
O
O
HO
HO
O
O
O
O
O
HO
O
O
O
O
OH
HO
O
O
O
0.1 0.2 0.5 1 2 5 10 20
5
4
3
2
1
0
Poly
qu
ater
niu
m-1
0C
on
cen
trat
ion
Critical Micelle Concentration
One Phase-Homogeneous
One Phase-Homogeneous
2-PHASE COMPLEX + SOLUTION
Source: Lochhead, The History of Polymers in Hair Care, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 103, Dec., 1988
5
Select from many levels of substantivity and cationic substitution
In order to meet the broad spectrum of usage situations, hair and skin typesand degrees of damage to the hair and skin, UCARE polymers offer a rangeof functionality with a variety of grades. Their levels of viscosity, substantivityand cationic substitution (indicated by the percent nitrogen on one polymerbackbone), enable you to combine variables for the appropriate aesthetics andconditioning functionality desired by the target market segment. UCAREpolymers allow you to blend form and function in exactly the way you needto give your product its best opportunity to gain a differential advantage inthe market.
In addition, all solutions of UCARE polymers are non-Newtonian and showpseudoplasticity depending on the viscosity grade. Therefore, your productwill formulate easily, maintain the form you intended, and have excellent aesthetic properties when applied.
Figure 3: Typical Properties of UCARE Polymers in Aqueous Solutions
UCARE Viscosity Concentration Viscosity Product Type Grade % by Weight (cPs)† % Nitrogen
Polymer JR 125 2 75–175 1.5–2.2Polymer JR 400 2 300–500 1.5–2.2Polymer JR 30M 1 1,000–2,500 1.5–2.2Polymer JR 30M 2 25,000–35,000 1.5–2.2
Polymer LR 400 2 300–500 0.8–1.1Polymer LR 30M 1 1,250–2,250 0.8–1.1Polymer LR 30M 2 25,000–35,000 0.8–1.1
Polymer LK — 2 300–500 0.4–0.6
†LVF Brookfield at 25°C.
6
Modeling deposition with Atomic Force Microscopy
Over the years, Amerchol Corporation has been at the forefront of developingand utilizing innovative methods for determining the amount of polymeradsorbed by a keratin substrate. These methods include radiotracer analysis,streaming potential measurement and electron spectroscopy for chemicalanalysis (ESCA). Recently, a new and powerful group of analytical scanningprobe microscopy methods for characterizing solid surfaces at the molecularlevel has been harnessed by various industries. One of them, atomic forcemicroscopy (AFM), has proven extremely useful for imaging nonconductivesubstances.
In AFM, a probe attached to a cantilever is used to measure the surfacetopography of the sample which is scanned in the x, y plane. The displace-ment of the probe tip, whether in direct contact or tapping mode, is detectedby a reflected laser beam and a photodiode. The feedback voltage providesthe topographical (z) data. The AFM method is an exciting way to map polymeric films.
Figures 4 and 5: AFM Studies of Polymer Deposition
Utilizing AFM techniques, analysis of polymer deposition on negatively chargedmica surfaces clearly demonstrates that UCARE Polymer JR lies flatter against thesurface than the UCARE Polymer LK because of the stronger bonding mechanismof the UCARE Polymer JR.
Because hair and skin by nature have a topography all their own, the study of polymer deposition can be difficult. The scientists at Amerchol searchedfor a smooth material to which polymer films could be applied. Freshlycleaved mica became the surface of choice on which to examine polymer deposition. Mica has a net negative charge like hair or skin, but it presents amolecularly smooth surface that enables scientists to study the depositionprofile of polymer films more readily than on hair and skin.
Analysis of AFM data in Figures 4 and 5 shows how different polymersdeposit and bond to the negatively charged surface. UCARE Polymer JR
World-class hair care technologyhelps fine-tune the performance ofUCARE polymers in your products
UCARE Polymer JR UCARE Polymer LK
World-class Hair Care Technology
7
deposits on the surface in a very flat manner. This indicates a strong bond tothe surface because of the higher degree of cationic substitution due to thehigher number of cationic sites of UCARE Polymer JR. Examining aUCARE polymer that has a lower level of cationic substitution and substantivity, like UCARE Polymer LK, shows a more irregular topographythat would indicate weaker bonding to the surface. This irregular topographyindicates a molecular tangling to the cellulosic backbone of the normally softpolymer. This would provide rigidity that will enhance the body of the hairand that may translate into styling or fixative properties. Subjective salon testsusing a shampoo containing UCARE Polymer LK confirmed this lightstyling property.
Electrokinetic testing assists polymer selection
Electrokinetic testing used to determine the desorption of a cationic materialfrom hair by measuring the zeta potential (mV) of the hair surface, provesthat there are different levels of substantivity among the members of theUCARE polymer line.
Figure 6: Electrokinetics of UCARE polymers
UCARE Polymer JR-30M Hydroxyethylcellulose
UCARE Polymer JR-400 Control Hair
UCARE Polymer LK
Hair has a negative charge on its surface. This is evidenced by the -27mVreading on the surface of the control hair in Figure 6. Treatment of the hairwith a positively charged cationic polymer substantially changes the surfacecharge from negative to positive, illustrating polymer adsorption. The graphin Figure 6 indicates the UCARE Polymer LK, while delivering substantiveconditioning effects, has less of an affinity for the anionic substrate (hair)than UCARE Polymer JR-400 upon application and through sustained rinsing. UCARE Polymer JR-400 has less of an affinity for the hair than
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
-5
-10
-15
-20
-25
-300 10 20 30
mV
Rinse Time (Minutes)
8
UCARE Polymer JR-30M. The performance of the UCARE Polymer LRfamily would fall between the UCARE Polymer JR family and UCAREPolymer LK. This is due to the levels of cationic substitution for the differentUCARE polymers. Based on their positive zeta potential, all are still substantive. Uncharged hydroxyethylcellulose, the basic starting material ofthe UCARE polymer line, exhibits a lack of substantivity and minimalchanges in the hair surface charge.
Clearly, this data demonstrates the different conditions under which each ofthe UCARE polymers will perform best. For virgin hair, or hair that is notdamaged, where only light conditioning is required, UCARE Polymer LKwould be the conditioning ingredient to include in your formulation. Also,UCARE Polymer LK is ideal for daily use shampoos because it’s more easilyremoved from the hair. Of course, UCARE Polymer JR and UCAREPolymer LR are still the conditioning ingredients of choice to deliver themending required to make damaged, permed, bleached or treated hair lookand feel healthy and natural.
Outstanding abilities to mend split-ends
Mending split-ends is one of the unique properties displayed by all membersof the UCARE polymer family.
In order to measure split-end mending, individual strands of virgin brownhair containing split-ends were mounted on a plastic stand for each shampootested. Each hair was then shampooed by inserting the individual hair into aneye dropper containing the test formulation. The strand was then rinsed withdistilled water from a squeeze bottle and the process repeated to simulate thenormal shampooing procedure.
The hairs were examined immediately by hand lens for mended split-ends,and again after drying for one hour at 50°C (122°F). To simulate combing,each hair was tapped ten times with a spatula and the number of splits stillmended was recorded. After one hour at room temperature, the hairs wereexamined again.
A triethanolamine lauryl sulfate (TEALS) shampoo without a UCARE polymer was included as a control. The results of this study are given inFigure 7. The tested members of the UCARE polymer family (UCAREPolymer JR-30M and UCARE Polymer LR-30M) proved equally effective in mending split-ends in either the anionic or amphoteric surfactant system. So whichever grade of UCARE polymer you might include in your product,you can still deliver the promise of mending split-ends.
The micrographic photos on the left visually confirm the ability of UCARE polymers to mend split-ends.
Before UCARE Polymer
After UCARE Polymer
World-class Hair Care Technology
Figure 7: Single Hair Split-End Mending with UCARE Polymers LR and JR
To further support and understand these results, we investigated the surfacedeposition of UCARE Polymer JR using electron spectroscopy for chemicalanalysis (ESCA). The data revealed very interesting substantivity behavior.The surface composition of the hair samples show higher quaternary nitrogen levels on the tip of the hair as compared with the root.Inspection of the high resolution data confirmed preferential polymeradsorption at the tip ends. This differential adsorption behavior is due to the greater availability of ionic attachment sites on the tip ofthe hair. Higher mechanical damage due to combing and exposure is another reason for greater tip end adsorption.
Measuring relationships between polymer deposition and surfactant selection
The type of surfactant you combine with UCARE polymers can affect the degree of polymer deposition on the hair or skin. While the amount of polymer deposition can be controlled by selecting the appropriate grade of UCARE polymer, a similar lowering of deposition can be achieved by changing the surfactant used in your system.
This is particularly evident with shampoos, where the impact of various surfactants can be determined quantitatively by a radioisotope technique. The deposition profiles for UCARE Polymer JR-400 ina variety of surfactant systems are shown in Figures 8and 9 (page 10). Virgin brown and bleached hair weretested in order to determine if hair type and conditionhad any effect on the deposition from similar systems.
Percent Mended
Sample Immediately After Tapping 1 Hour After Tapping
Anionic Shampoos (TEALS Type)
UCARE Polymer LR-30M 100 100 100
UCARE Polymer JR-30M 100 100 100
Amphoteric Shampoos
UCARE Polymer LR-30M 100 100 100
UCARE Polymer JR-30M 100 100 100
Control Shampoo† 100 70 70
† Control Shampoo Formula
Component % by WeightTriethanolamine Lauryl Sulfate 20High Purity Coconut Diethanolamide 2Water 78
9
10
Figure 8: Deposition Profile of UCARE Polymer JR-400 on Virgin Brown Hair in Various Surfactant Systems
Figure 9: Deposition Profile of UCARE Polymer JR-400 on Bleached Hair in Various Surfactant Systems
1.2
1.0
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
0
1 2 3 4 5
Up
take
(µ
g/m
g)
Shampoo Cycles
10
8
6
4
2
0
1 2 3 4 5
Nonionic Surfactant
Imidazoline Amphoteric
50/50 Imidazoline Amphoteric/TEALS
EO SULFATE
TEALS and Betaine
Imidazoline Amphoteric
Nonionic Surfactant
50/50 Imidazoline Amphoteric/TEALS
Betaine
EO Sulfate
TEALS
Up
take
(µ
g/m
g)
Shampoo Cycles
World-class Hair Care Technology
11
The highest level of polymer deposition occurs with nonionic and imidazo-line amphoteric surfactants. Anionics all give consistently lower deposition of polymer. A 50:50 blend of anionic TEALS and imidazoline amphotericgives a deposition pattern much closer to the TEALS curve than the highdeposition imidazoline amphoteric.
These findings indicate that the amount of polymer deposition on hair canbe controlled by the selection of the surfactant system, and that productssuch as shampoos and body washes can be tailor-made for a given type ofhair or skin. In general, for bleached or otherwise damaged hair, UCAREpolymers should be used in an imidazoline amphoteric surfactant system to achieve maximum conditioning effects. For oily hair, where minimal deposition of the polymer would be desirable, an alkyl ether sulfate orTEALS/betaine type system should be used.
When using anionic surfactants, care must be taken to maintain the properratio between the surfactant and the UCARE polymer. Anionic-cationic combinations in stoichiometric ratios are incompatible, usually leading toinsoluble precipitates. A ratio of about 5:1 anionic surfactant to UCAREpolymer, however, produces clear solutions. Thus, anionic surfactants cangenerally be used with UCARE polymers without difficulty, as long as thesurfactant concentration is in sufficient excess.
Understanding thickener relationships to achieve ideal clarity and pourability
The impact of UCARE polymers on the appearance, rheology and aestheticsof a typical shampoo product with gel-like structure was compared with otherpolymeric conditioners. In our study, we used a combination of 8% sodiumlaureth sulfate, 2% cocamidopropyl betaine and 2% decyl glucoside as thesurfactant base of the system. All systems contained 0.5% sodium chloride.
Figure 10 (page 12) shows that in products where PEG-150 distearate or lauramide DEA was used as the thickener, high molecular weight UCAREpolymer enhanced the appearance and rheology of the test system better than Polyquaternium-7 or guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. In systemswhere PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate was used as the primary thickener, allgrades of UCARE polymer produced clear products, while the inclusion ofthe Polyquaternium-7 made the final product slightly hazy and the guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride made the product hazy. In a gel-like system containing 1% PEG-150 distearate, all tested grades of UCARE polymers formed smooth gels. The guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorideand Polyquaterinum-7 formed stringy or choppy gels, respectively.
The conclusion is clear. In today’s shampoo and shower gel products,UCARE polymers are clearly superior in delivering the appearance, rheologyand aesthetics that consumers expect from quality brands.
Figure 10: Effect of 0.2% Polymer in Combination With Various “Thickening” Agents
60000
50000
40000
30000
20000
10000
0
PEG-150 DS
GLUCAMATE™
DOE-120
stringy gel
pourable gel
hazy viscous liquid
high viscosity liquid
hazy liquid
sl. hazy viscous liquid
hazy liquid
smooth liquid
smooth liquid
smooth liquid
liquid
choppy gel smooth gel
pourable gel
viscous liquid
liquid
PEG-55 PGOleate
LDEA
No
Po
lym
er
Vis
cosi
ty (
cPs)
Polymer
Thickener
G-H
PTC
PQ-7
UC
AR
EPo
lym
er J
R-3
0M
Contains 1% “thickener” in an 8% SLES/2% cocamidopropyl betaine/2% decyl glucoside surfactant system.
12
13
When it comes to keeping skin in top condition, nothing tops the conditioning power of UCARE polymers. Their substantivity to the skintranslates into a protective film that not only leaves skin feeling smooth andsilky, but helps the skin maintain moisture and combat the harmful defattingeffects of soaps and the environment.
Today’s UCARE polymers fully support nonanimal testing claims. Whilemuch of the early work in assessing the performance of UCARE polymerswas done on calf and rat skin, all recent testing has been done on humans.Since these early tests were done in the 1970s, nonanimal testing claims canstill be made.
While the AFM studies on mica can be projected to prove the substantivityof UCARE polymers on skin, direct skin testing confirms the presence andlongevity of UCARE polymers on skin even under harsh conditions. A lotioncontaining 0.2% C14- tagged UCARE Polymer JR was rubbed into calfskinswatches. After drying, the swatches were immersed in a 0.1% solution of acommercial dishwashing detergent at 50°C (122°F). At the intervals listed in Figure 11, the swatches were withdrawn for assay, using the liquid scintillation counting technique.
Figure 11: Substantivity of UCARE Polymers Under Harsh Conditions
The staying power of UCARE polymers enables you to formulate creams,lotions, soaps, body washes, and cleansing cloths that deliver long-lasting benefits to your customers. In formulations containing active ingredients,such as antibacterial soaps, UCARE polymers may improve the long termefficacy of the active ingredient. Other tests prove the effectiveness ofUCARE polymers in delivering multifunctional benefits like reduction ofmoisture vapor transmission and irritation.
UCARE polymers help skin staysmooth, moist and healthy
Keeping Skin Smooth and Moist
Time of Immersion Percent of UCARE Polymer JR(minutes) Retained on the Skin
0 100%
10 98
30 83
60 40
90 40
14
Keeping moisture where it belongs
UCARE polymers have a positive effect on the barrier function of skin bylessening its degradation and providing a substitute when the natural barrieris lost and needs time to rejuvenate.
Moisture vapor transmission (MVT) experiments were conducted in vitrowith special precautions taken to maintain the integrity of the stratumcorneum membranes throughout the testing. Each membrane was sand-wiched between two pieces of plastic screen. The subject membranes weresuspended in a 500 ml beaker in which a strong soap solution was gentlystirred. Upon removal, the membranes were rinsed by immersion in threesuccessive beakers of tap water and then air dried.
Diffusion cells were constructed from spherical O-ring joints (15 mm ID) bycutting and sealing one side of the joint to provide a reservoir 2 cm deep.The reservoir was stuffed with tissue paper to prevent splashing, and 2 ml ofdistilled water was added. A moistened membrane was then placed across thereservoir, followed by the O-ring and the opposite side of the joint. Theentire unit was then clamped and placed in a desiccator over CaSO4. Themass of each cup was measured at 24 hour intervals until the mass loss perunit time became constant. This required three to five days.
Figure 12 presents MVT rates of the skin after exposures to tap water andsolutions of UCARE Polymer JR-400. Figure 13 (page 15) shows similar dataafter the skin was exposed to soap and then treated with solutions of UCAREPolymer JR-400. It is apparent that the UCARE polymer reduces damage tothe barrier function of the skin caused by either exposure to water or soap. It is also clear that a UCARE polymer incorporated into a liquid soap, bodywash, shower gel, bath product, or soap bar can be deposited on the skin toprevent loss of moisture and that creams and lotions formulated withUCARE polymers can restore damaged skin to good health.
Figure 12: Effect of UCARE Polymer JR on Moisture Vapor Transmission
†Tests on Neonatal Rat Stratum Corneum
Treatment Moisture Vapor Transmission mg/cm2/hour†
Control (average of 3) 0.18±0.026
4 Hours in Tap Water, 23°C 0.49
16 Hours in Tap Water, 23°C 0.53
1 Hour in 0.1% UCARE Polymer JR-400, 23°C 0.18
6 Hours in 0.1% UCARE Polymer JR-400, 23°C 0.22
16 Hours in 0.1% UCARE Polymer JR-400, 23°C 0.20
1 Hour in 1.0% UCARE Polymer JR-400, 23°C 0.20
Keeping Skin Smooth and Moist
15
Figure 13: Effect of UCARE Polymer JR on Moisture Vapor Transmission
Combat the effects of harsh surfactants
UCARE polymers have the ability to moderate the defatting effects of alkaline systems, either by incorporation into those systems or by treatmentafter exposure.
In a study on detergent dermatitis, various concentrations of aqueous solutions of UCARE Polymer JR-400 were applied to test sites on the forearms of ten subjects each day for five days.
Figure 14: Moderation of SLS Reaction by Pretreatment with UCARE Polymer JR Solutions
†Tests on Neonatal Rat Stratum Corneum Note: X = 10 minutes at 40–50°C, 2 minutes rinse, air dry.
0.1% 0.25% 0.5% 1.0% 2.0% Control Polymer JR Polymer JR Polymer JR Polymer JR Polymer JR
Subject S R S R S R S R S R S R
1 4 4 4 4 4 4 3 3 2 2 1 1
2 4 4 4 4 3 4 3 4 3 2 1 1
3 3 3 4 4 4 4 4 3 3 2 1 1
4 4 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 1
5 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 2 2 1 1
6 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 1 1 1 1
7 4 3 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 1 2 1
8 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 3 1 2 1 0
9 4 3 4 4 4 3 4 3 2 2 2 1
10 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 2 1 1 0
Average 3.7 3.5 3.8 3.8 3.6 3.5 3.4 3.2 2.0 1.7 1.3 0.8
Treatment Moisture Vapor Transmission mg/cm2/hour†
5X Tap Water (average of 2) 0.26±0.085
Soap (2.3% in Tap Water)
1X Soap (average of 3) 0.52±0.20
5X Soap (average of 3) 2.83±0.15
Soap (2.3% in Tap Water), Then Polymer JR-400
1X Soap then 1 hour UCARE Polymer JR-400 (0.1%)
(average of 2) 0.35±0.1
5X Soap then 1 hour UCARE Polymer JR-400 (0.1%) 1.3
5X Soap then 1 hour UCARE Polymer JR-400 (1.0%) 1.0
Note: This study was conducted inDecember when reactions to anionicdetergents are severe. A pilot studydone in early November during anunusually mild period showed peakreactions of about 2.
Key: Reactions were graded from 0 to 4 (S = scaling or dryness; R = redness).5% SLS patched 1 hr./day for 5 days. Evaluated on 7th day. Winter conditions.
16
After the solution dried, a 1-inch square of nonwoven cloth moistened with5% aqueous sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) was applied for one hour underocclusion. A control site on each participant did not receive the pretreatmentwith UCARE Polymer JR-400 prior to application of the SLS cloth. Threedays after the fifth treatment/exposure, the skin sites were evaluated for scaling and redness. Figure 14 (page 15) details the results obtained. A 1%solution of UCARE Polymer JR-400 was able to reduce the inflammatoryresponse by about 50%. Only very mild dermatitis occurred on those sitespretreated with a 2% solution.
In a separate study, UCARE Polymer JR-400 solutions were applied immediately after each one-hour exposure to SLS. Here, too, the inflammatoryreactions were lessened with 1 and 2% solutions of UCARE polymer. Theprotective effect, however, was somewhat less than pretreatment, even though the films formed by UCARE polymers persisted on the skin betweenexposures to the SLS.
In other studies, UCARE polymers were found to alleviate the dryness and irritation caused by depilatory creams and suppress the allergic responseto Rhus (poison ivy) dermatitis. And, because UCARE polymers form substantive films, their use in enhancing the effectiveness of sunscreens andwaterproof cosmetics deserves further examination.
Keeping Skin Smooth and Moist
Formulating with UCARE polymers
Cationic polymers, like UCARE polymers,will interact with anionic surfactants andform a complex, which at a certain ratiowill precipitate out of solution. To facilitateincorporation in the manufacture of surfactant-based systems, such as a shampoo, liquid soap or body wash, firstprepare a pre-mix solution of the UCAREpolymer in room temperature water. Thenadd that solution to the surfactant. As thecationic-anionic complex is formed, theexcess surfactant immediately solubilizes the complex. This method avoids visiblesigns of the creation of the complex andshortens the dissolution time of the polymer. If the surfactant were added to the polymer solution, the complexformed would be much more visible and the dissolution time would be much greater.
More information about UCARE polymers
The formulations on the followingpages provide examples of howUCARE polymers work in a variety of products. Also listed are a number
of resources from which you canobtain more information aboutUCARE polymers and the varioustesting methods described in this brochure.
17
Conditioning Shampoo - E911-010-4M
Description: This clear, pale yellow, 2-in-1 conditioningshampoo is suggested for use on dry, damaged hair. A combination of UCARE Polymer LR-30M, SOLULAN™ L-575 and GLUCQUAT™ 125 were added for conditioningand foam quality enhancement. UCARE Polymer LR-30Mand GLUCAMATE DOE-120 improve mildness. GLUCAMATE DOE-120 also contributes to the viscosity of this surfactant system.
Typical Viscosity: 4,300 cPs (20°C, LVT, 3, 12 rpm)
pH: 6.0
Formula
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (28% active) 25.00%Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate (50% active) 5.00Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30% active) 10.00UCARE Polymer LR-30M (Polyquaternium-10) 0.30GLUCQUAT 125 (Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10
Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride) 2.00SOLULAN L-575 (PEG-75 Lanolin) 1.00GLUCAMATE DOE-120
(PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) 1.50Deionized Water 55.20Citric Acid q.s.Preservative and Fragrance q.s.
Procedure: Prepare a premix solution by dispersing UCAREPolymer LR-30M in water with agitation. Begin heating to50–60°C. Add the GLUCAMATE DOE-120 to the premixsolution, stirring until dissolved. Remove heat. Combine the surfactants. Add the premix solution to the surfactant mixture. Add the remaining ingredients one at a time, waitingfor each ingredient to dissolve before adding the next one.Adjust the pH to 6.0 with the citric acid.
Frequent Use Shampoo - E941-129-10
Description: This pearlescent shampoo provides gentle cleansing with protective conditioning. UCARE Polymer JR-400 and GLUCAM™ E-20 have been included for conditioning and humectancy, respectively. GLUCAMATEDOE-120 thickens this mild cleansing system which contains cocoamphodiacetate and sulfosuccinate.
Typical Viscosity: 4,300 cPs (20°C, LVT, 3, 12 rpm)
pH: 6.5
Formula
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (28% active) 7.00%Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate (30% active) 3.00Glycol Distearate (and) Laureth-4 (and)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (45% active) 1.00GLUCAMATE DOE-120
(PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) 1.50Deionized Water 84.30UCARE Polymer JR-400 (Polyquaternium-10) 0.25GLUCAM E-20 (Methyl Gluceth-20) 1.50Sodium Chloride 0.45Citric Acid q.s.Preservative and Fragrance q.s.
Procedure: Prepare a premix solution by dispersing UCAREPolymer JR-400 in the water with agitation. Begin heating to50–60°C. Add the premix solution to the surfactant mixture.Add the GLUCAM E-20. Add preservative and fragrance.Adjust the pH to 6.5 with the citric acid.
Zero VOC Hair Spray - T66-79-2
Description: UCARE Polymer JR-125 provides sheen andslip to the hair. KYTAMER™ PC serves as the hair fixative in this natural, water-based hair spray.
Formula
KYTAMER PC (Chitosan PCA) 0.35%Dimethicone Copolyol 0.02UCARE Polymer JR-125 (Polyquaternium-10) 0.15Deionized Water 99.48Preservative and Fragrance q.s.
Procedure: Add ingredients at room temperature with agitation.
Hair Care Formulations
18
Daily Use Shampoo - E921-137-5
Description: UCARE Polymer LK provides the conditioningmechanism in this pearlescent shampoo to leave hair tangle-free, manageable and ready for styling. The basic surfactantsystem is thickened by GLUCAMATE DOE-120. GLUCAME-20 is added for humectancy, and will also improve the feeland foam wetness properties.
Typical Viscosity: 6,100 cPs (20°C, LVT, 3, 12 rpm)
pH: 6.5
Formula
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (28% active) 30.00%Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30% active) 10.00Glycol Distearate (and) Sodium Laureth
Sulfate (and) Cocamide MEA (and) Laureth-10 (40% active) 1.00
GLUCAMATE DOE-120 (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) 1.50
Deionized Water 55.15UCARE Polymer LK (Polyquaternium-10) 0.45GLUCAM E-20 (Methyl Gluceth-20) 1.50Sodium Chloride 0.40Citric Acid q.s.Preservative and Fragrance q.s.
Procedure: Prepare a premix solution by dispersing UCAREPolymer LK in the water with agitation. Begin heating to 50–60°C. Add the GLUCAMATE DOE-120 to the premixsolution, stirring until dissolved. Combine the surfactants.Add the premix solution to the surfactant mixture. Add theGLUCAM E-20 and other ingredients. Adjust the pH to 6.5 with the citric acid.
High Gloss Styling Gel - T68-5-1
Description: A clear, viscous gel containing CELLOSIZE™HEC QP 52000H which serves as the gelling agent. Theincorporation of KYTAMER PC in conjunction with UCARE Polymer JR-30M provides the holding properties.GLUCAM E-20 and KYTAMER PC impart gloss.
Formula
Deionized Water 98.05%CELLOSIZE HEC QP 52000H
(Hydroxyethylcellulose) 1.50KYTAMER PC (Chitosan PCA) 0.25UCARE Polymer JR-30M (Polyquaternium-10) 0.10GLUCAM E-20 (Methyl Gluceth-20) 0.10Preservative and Fragrance q.s.
Procedure: Dissolve the CELLOSIZE HEC QP 52000H inwater at 20°C with good agitation, then heat to 70°C. Addthe remaining ingredients in the order listed, allowing enoughtime for solution formation between steps while maintainingthe temperature at 70°C. Cool to room temperature and addthe preservative and fragrance.
Conditioning Creme Rinse - T55-101-1
Description: This creme rinse formula is enhanced by theconditioner, UCARE Polymer JR-30M, which is substantiveto the hair. CELLOSIZE Polymer PCG-10 is added to build viscosity.
Formula
CELLOSIZE Polymer PCG-10(Hydroxyethylcellulose) 0.50%
UCARE Polymer JR-30M (Polyquaternium-10) 0.50Glycol Distearate 0.50Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00Cetyl Alcohol 0.50PEG-100 Stearate 1.00Stearalkonium Chloride 1.00Citric Acid 0.05Deionized Water 93.95Preservative q.s.
Procedure: Disperse the UCARE Polymer JR-30M and theCELLOSIZE Polymer PCG-10 in room temperature waterwith agitation. Heat to 70–75°C. In a separate container addthe glycol distearate, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and thePEG-100 stearate and heat to 70°C. When this separate mixture is at 70°C and uniform, slowly add it to the polymersolution. Mix until uniform. Add the stearalkonium chloride,citric acid and preservative. Mix until uniform. Cool to roomtemperature with agitation.
19
20
Moisturizing Lotion - T63-36-1
Description: This lotion moisturizes the skin with a softnessthat lasts through several washings. UCARE Polymer JR-30Mdelivers substantive conditioning to the skin. PROPAL™ NFleaves a water-repellent film on the skin. PROMULGEN™ Gand PROMULGEN D bring body to the formulation and actas primary emulsifiers.
Formula
Oil PhaseMineral Oil 5.0%PROMULGEN G
(Stearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20) 3.0PROMULGEN D
(Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20) 3.0PROPAL NF (Isopropyl Palmitate) 2.0Dimethicone (100 cs) 1.0
Water PhaseUCARE Polymer JR-30M (2% aqueous)
(Polyquaternium-10) 25.0Deionized Water 58.0Glycerin 3.0Preservative and Fragrance q.s.
Procedure: Prepare a 2% aqueous solution of UCAREPolymer JR-30M, by adding the polymer to water at roomtemperature with agitation. When dispersed add glycerin andthe remaining water and heat to 75°C. Heat the oil phase to75°C. Add the water phase to the oil phase at 75°C with rapidagitation. Continue mixing and cool to room temperature.
Enriched Hand Lotion - T55-63-3
Description: White, glossy, medium viscosity lotion. UCARE Polymer JR-125 is a substantive polymer which contributes to the intensive conditioning of the skin.
Formula
Water PhaseUCARE Polymer JR-125 (Polyquaternium-10) 0.25%Propylene Glycol 4.80Triethanolamine (99%) 0.95Deionized Water 84.00
Oil PhaseAMERCHOL™ C
(Petrolatum and Lanolin and Lanolin Alcohol) 0.50Cetyl Alcohol 0.40PROMYR™ (Isopropyl Myristate) 2.40Stearic Acid, xxx 2.90Mineral Oil, 70 vis. 2.40Glyceryl Stearate 1.00Myristyl Myristate 0.40Preservative and Fragrance q.s.
Procedure: Heat oil phase to 70°C. Separately, add theUCARE Polymer JR-125 to the water. When hydrated, addthe remaining water soluble ingredients and heat to 70°C.Add the water phase to the oil phase with vigorous agitation.Continue to mix to 35°C.
Skin Smoother - T68-21-1
Description: Clear, viscous, natural-based liquid with substantive film-forming properties provided by KYTAMER PC. UCARE Polymer JR-400 serves as the conditioning agent, while GLUCAM E-10 offers humectancy.CELLOSIZE HEC QP 52000H is added as a thickener.
Formula
Deionized Water 88.70%CELLOSIZE HEC QP 52000H
(Hydroxyethylcellulose) 0.40Deionized Water 10.00KYTAMER PC (Chitosan PCA) 0.40UCARE Polymer JR-400 (Polyquaternium-10) 0.25GLUCAM E-10 (Methyl Gluceth-10) 0.25Preservative q.s.
Procedure: Dissolve the CELLOSIZE HEC QP 52000H inwater at 20°C with agitation, then heat to 70°C. In a separatecontainer mix the KYTAMER PC with 10 parts water untilclear, heating gently to 70°C. Add to CELLOSIZE HEC solution. Add remaining ingredients in the order listed, allowing time for solution formation while maintaining the temperature at 70°C. Cool to room temperature and add preservative.
Skin Care Formulations
21
Clear Facial Cleanser - T82-267-5
Description: This novel, moderately priced formula uses sodium cocoyl isethionate in a clear system. The UCAREPolymer LR-400 and GLUCQUAT 125 act as a two-conditioner system. GLUCAM E-10 provides humectancywhile controlling viscosity. UCON™ 50-HB-660 mitigates the stringiness normally associated with ammoniumlauryl sulfate, yielding a very mild facial cleanser that feelsgood when applied and conditions the skin while it cleans.
Typical Viscosity: 800 cPs (20°C, RVT, 3, 20 rpm)
pH: 6.0
Formula
Deionized Water 65.13%Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (80% active) 2.5Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (33% active) 13.30Cocamidopropyl Betaine (35% active) 14.30UCARE Polymer LR-400 (Polyquaternium-10) 0.10Sodium Xylenesulfonate (40% active) 1.25UCON 50-HB-660 (PPG-12-Buteth-16) 0.02GLUCAM E-10 (Methyl Gluceth-10) 1.00GLUCQUAT 125 (Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10
Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride) 2.00DMDM Hydantoin 0.40
Procedure: Add the sodium xylenesulfonate to the water withstirring. Continue stirring while sprinkling in the UCAREPolymer LR-400. Once the polymer is completely dispersed,heat to 70°C. When the polymer is hydrated, add the sodiumcocoyl isethionate, cocamidopropyl betaine and ammoniumlauryl sulfate, in that order, waiting for each to dissolve beforeadding the next. Once uniform, add the remaining ingredientsone at a time in the order listed. Allow to cool to at least40°C, then add the preservative.
Eye Makeup Remover - E931-035-13
Description: UCARE Polymer JR-125 delivers skin conditioning properties in this clear, lightly foaming makeupremover. GLUCAM P-10 is added for emollience. GLUCAMATE SSE-20 imparts a skin-refreshing feel to the product, while the GLUCAMATE DOE-120 contributes to emollience and mildness.
Formula
UCARE Polymer JR-125 (Polyquaternium-10) 0.05%Deionized Water 92.95GLUCAMATE SSE-20
(PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) 1.50GLUCAMATE DOE-120
(PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) 1.50GLUCAM P-10 (PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether) 1.00Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate (50% active) 3.00Triethanolamine q.s.Preservative q.s.
Procedure: Disperse the UCARE Polymer JR-125 in thewater. Heat to 45°C and dissolve the GLUCAMATE SSE-20and the GLUCAMATE DOE-120. Remove heat. Add theremaining ingredients. Adjust pH to 7.0.
Toning Lotion and Skin Freshener - T55-115-2
Description: A base skin refining toner. This hydroalcoholiclotion gives substantive conditioning to the skin due to theinclusion of UCARE Polymer JR-125. GLUCAM E-10, ahumectant, helps overcome the drying effect of the alcohol.
Formula
UCARE Polymer JR-125 (Polyquaternium-10) 0.25%Deionized Water 77.75SD Alcohol 40 20.00GLUCAM E-10 (Methyl Gluceth-10) 2.00Fragrance q.s.
Procedure: Disperse the UCARE Polymer JR-125 in roomtemperature water with agitation. Heat to 60–70°C to accelerate the hydration and produce a uniform solution. Cool to room temperature. Dissolve the GLUCAM E-10 andthe fragrance in the alcohol. Add to the polymer solution. Stir until uniform.
22
Moisturizing Shower Lotion - E931-063-5
Description: The substantive UCARE Polymer JR-30Mbrings long-lasting barrier protection and conditioning to the skin in this moisturizing shower lotion. The mild cleansing system is thickened by GLUCAMATE DOE-120.CREMEROL™ HMG and GLUCAM E-20 are incorporatedfor moisturization and humectancy. PROMULGEN D addscreaminess to the product.
Typical Viscosity: 23,500 cPs (20°C, LVT, 4, 12 rpm)
pH: 6.5
Formula
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (28% active) 20.00%Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30% active) 15.00UCARE Polymer JR-30M
(Polyquaternium-10) 0.10Deionized Water 60.05PROMULGEN D
(Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20) 1.00GLUCAM E-20 (Methyl Gluceth-20) 1.00GLUCAMATE DOE-120
(PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) 1.50CREMEROL HMG
(Hydroxylated Milk Glycerides) 1.00Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide 0.35Triethanolamine q.s.Citric Acid q.s.Preservative and Fragrance q.s.
Procedure: Heat half of the water to 75°C and add the PROMULGEN D. Disperse the UCARE Polymer JR-30M in the other half of the water while heating to 45–50°C. Addthe GLUCAMATE DOE-120 and the CREMEROL HMG to the UCARE Polymer JR-30M solution. Once a uniformsolution has formed add this mixture to the PROMULGEN Dsolution with gentle agitation. Add the remaining ingredients,mixing until uniform. Cool to 35°C while stirring. Adjust pH to 6.5 with citric acid.
Conditioning Shower Creme - E921-133-10
Description: This creamy, pearlescent, 2-in-1 shower cremecombines cleansing and conditioning properties. The combination of GLUCQUAT 125 and UCARE Polymer JR-30M provides immediate, perceptible and prolonged conditioning. GLUCAM E-20 Distearate acts as a mild surfactant to remove dirt and oil from the skin.
Typical Viscosity: 4,500 cPs (20°C, LVT, 3, 12 rpm)
pH: 6.5
Formula
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (28% active) 16.00%Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30% active) 10.00GLUCAM E-20 Distearate
(PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Distearate) 1.50Glycol Distearate (and) Laureth-4 (and)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (45% active) 2.00GLUCAMATE DOE-120
(PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) 1.25UCARE Polymer JR-30M (Polyquaternium-10) 0.25Deionized Water 65.55GLUCQUAT 125 (Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10
Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride) 3.00Sodium Chloride 0.45Citric Acid q.s.Preservative and Fragrance q.s.
Procedure: Disperse the UCARE Polymer JR-30M in thewater with moderate agitation and gentle heating to 50°C.Add the GLUCAMATE DOE-120 and continue heating untildissolved. Add the GLUCAM E-20 Distearate and continueheating. Add the surfactants. Adjust the pH to 6.5. Add the GLUCQUAT 125, sodium chloride, fragrance and preservative.
Body Care Formulations
23
1. Goddard, E. D., and Schmitt, R. L., “Atomic Force MicroscopyInvestigation into the Adsorption of Cationic Polymers,” Cosmetics& Toiletries, Volume 109, Number 4, pages 55-61, March 1994.
2. Goddard, E. D., and Schmitt, R. L., “Atomic Force Microscopy (Part II): Investigation into the Adsorption of Cationic Polymers,”Cosmetics & Toiletries, Volume 109, Number 12, pages 83-93,December 1994.
3. Rigoletto, R., Moral, L., and Pavlichko, J. P., “Differentiation ofCationic Polymers Based on Modern Analytical Techniques,”Cosmetics & Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide, 1996.
4. Goddard, E. D., and Harris, W. C., “An ESCA Study of theSubstantivity of Conditioning Polymers on Hair Substrates,” Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, July/August 1987.
5. Faucher, J.A., Goddard, E. D., and Hannan, R. B., “Sorption andDesorption of a Cationic Polymer by Human Hair,” Textile ResearchJournal, September 1977.
6. Scott, G. V., Robbins, C. R., and Barnhurst, J. D., “Sorption ofQuaternary Ammonium Surfactants by Human Hair,” Journal ofthe Society of Cosmetic Chemists, February 1969.
7. Goddard, E. D., “Substantivity Through Cationic Substitution,”Cosmetics & Toiletries, April 1987.
8. Goddard, E. D., Phillips, T., and Hanan, R. B., “Water SolublePolymer - Surfactant Interaction (Part I),” Journal of the Society ofCosmetic Chemists, September 1975.
9. Goddard, E. D., Faucher, J. A., Scott, R. J., and Turney, M. E.,“Adsorption of Polymer JR on Keratinous Surfaces - Part II,”Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, November 1975.
10. Faucher, J. A., and Goddard, E. D., “Sorption of a CationicPolymer by Stratum Corneum,” Paper Delivered at Society ofCosmetic Chemists meeting, May 1975.
11. Edstrom, R. D., Yang, X., Lee, G., Evans, D. F., “ViewingMolecules with Scanning Tunneling Microscopy and Atomic ForceMicroscopy,” The FASEB Journal, October 1990.
12. Goddard, E. D., and Harris, W. C., “Adsorption of Polymers andLipids on Stratum Corneum Membranes as Measured by ESCA,”Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, September/October 1987.
13. Goddard, E. D., and Chandar, P., “Deposition of Colloidal Silica asan Indicator of Polymer Adsorption on Keratin,” Colloids &Surfaces, 34, 1988/89.
14. Faucher, J. A., Goddard, E. D., Hannan, R. B., and Kligman, A.M., “Protection of Skin by a Cationic Cellulose Polymer,” Cosmetics & Toiletries, June 1977.
15. Goddard, E. D., and Leung, P. S., “Protection of Skin by CationicCellulosics: In-Vitro Testing Methods,” Union Carbide Document,October 1982.
16. Goddard, E. D., and Leung, P. S., “Cationic Cellulosics in Lotions,”Cosmetics & Toiletries, March 1980.
17. Faucher, J. A., and Rosen, M. R., “Hair Conditioning by a‘Chemical’ Comb,” Cosmetics & Toiletries, August 1977.
18. Hutter, J. M., Clarke, M. T., Just, E. K., Lichtin, J. L., and Sakr, A.,“The Influence of Nonionic Cellulosic Polymers on the Uptake ofPolyquaternium-10 by Bleached Hair,” Journal of the Society ofCosmetic Chemists, September/October 1992.
19. Faucher, J. A., and Goddard, E. D., “Influence of Surfactants on theSorption of Cationic Polymer by Keratinous Substrates,” Journal ofColloid and Interfacial Science, May 1976.
20. Goddard, E. D., Leung, P. S., and Padmanabhan, P. A., “NovelGelling Structures Based on Polymer/Surfactant Systems,” Journalof the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, January/February 1991.
21. Goddard, E. D., and Braun, D. B., “A New Surface Active CationicCellulosic Polymer,” Cosmetics & Toiletries, July 1985.
22. Goldemberg, R. L., “Anti-Irritants,” Journal of The Society ofCosmetic Chemists, December 1979.
23. Barbeito, C., Pavlichko, J. P., and Maso, H. F., “The Condition ofColor,” SPC, November 1992.
Below is a list of resources for additional information about UCARE polymers, the measurement techniques cited in this brochure and other related subjects.
Amerchol Corporation is a subsidiary of The Dow Chemical Company
NOTICE: No freedom from any patent owned by Seller or others is to be inferred. Because use conditions and applicable laws may differ from onelocation to another and may change with time, Customer is responsible for determining whether products and the information in this document areappropriate for Customer’s use and for ensuring that Customer’s workplace and disposal practices are in compliance with applicable laws and othergovernmental enactments. Seller assumes no obligation or liability for the information in this document. NO WARRANTIES ARE GIVEN; ALL IMPLIEDWARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE ARE EXPRESSLY EXCLUDED.
Published September 2002 *Trademark of The Dow Chemical Company
Printed in USA Form No. 324-00004-0902 AMS
For more information, complete literature, and product samples, you can reach a Dow representative at the following numbers:
From the United States and Canada
In Europe
In Other Global Areas
†Toll free from Austria (00), Belgium (00), Denmark (00), Finland (990), France (00), Germany (00), Hungary (00), Ireland (00), Italy (00), The Netherlands (00), Norway (00), Portugal (00), Spain (00),
Sweden (00), Switzerland (00), and the United Kingdom (00)
Or you can contact us on the Internet at:www.amerchol.com
call 1-800-FOR ELEGANCE (1-800-367-3534)fax 1-989-832-1465
toll-free + 800 3 694 6367†
call +32 3 450 2240fax +32 3 450 2815
call + 1-989-832-1560fax + 1-989-832-1465
ConditioningDeposition
MoisturizationFilm Formation
UCARE PolymersConditioning
Moisturization
