P227A new antiaging active ingredient that stimulates cytochrome C expres-sion and enhances mitochondrial potential

Claude Dal Farra, PhD, ISP/Vincience, Sophia Antipolis, France; Eric Bauza, MS,ISP/Vincience, Sophia Antipolis, France; Jean-Marie Botto, PhD, ISP/Vincience,Sophia Antipolis, France; Nouha Domloge, MD, ISP/Vincience, Sophia Antipolis,France

Cytochrome C, a highly conserved protein that spans the spectrum of species, isclosely associated with the inner membrane of mitochondria and is essential forelectron transfer, cell energy, and life in general. Thus, we developed a newcytochrome Ceinducing active ingredient (CI) that helps cells reinforce mitochon-drial potential and, consequently, improves cell functioning. In order to study thisnew cytochrome Ceinducing active ingredient, cytochrome C expression in cellswas evaluated by immunofluorescence staining and Western blot studies after CIwas applied. A net increase in cytochrome C expression in fibroblasts treated withthe 1% of CI was observed, compared to untreated cells. This effect was consistentin unstressed cells, and when cells were stressed with UVB (50 and 75 mJ/cm2) orH2O2 (1 mM). In order to further investigate the effects of CI on cytochrome C,cytochrome oxidase activity assays were performed on human fibroblasts. Thesestudies showed that treatment of the cells with CI greatly enhanced cytochromeoxidase activity by 250% and 850% after 3 hours and 24 hours of application,respectively. Interestingly, a significant increase in ATP content after 1 hour (41%)and 3 hours (27%) was observed in the CI-treated cells and correlated well with theimprovement of mitochondrial functioning. In order to further confirm theseresults, studies were performed on JC-1, a new marker of mitochondrial membranepotential. CI-treated cells showed a higher membrane potential (red fluorescencecorresponding to JC-1 aggregates) than control untreated cells (green fluorescencecorresponding to JC-1 monomers). Similar results were obtained with cells stressedwith UVB or H2O2. These studies demonstrate the significant effect of this newcytochrome Ceinducing active ingredient on improving mitochondrial potentialand cell functioning, and strongly suggest that it can be of great use in skinenergizing and skin care products.

AB26

nsored by ISP.

100% spo

P228Rice extract stimulates collagen synthesis and displays an antiaging effect

Claude Dal Farra, PhD, ISP/Vincience, Sophia Antipolis, France; Rachel Chabert,MS, ISP/Vincience, Sophia Antipolis, France; Eric Bauza, MS, ISP/Vincience,Sophia Antipolis, France; Nouha Domloge, MD, ISP/Vincience, Sophia Antipolis,France

One of the main challenges in the fields of dermatology and cosmetology isunderstanding cutaneous alterations which contribute to skin aging. Structuralchanges occurring in aged skin are mainly attributed to modifications of the dermalcompartment, and, in particular, modifications in collagen I and III—the maintargets of physiologic aging and photoaging. Not only do collagen I and III play acrucial role in maintaining the structural integrity of the skin, but they are alsostrongly implicated in tissue remodeling, wound healing, cell adhesion, and cellmigration. Alterations in collagen structure, as well as decreased collagen synthesis,can result in sagging skin and wrinkle formation. Therefore, restoring the collagennetwork appears to be an important step in antiaging strategies for the skin. For thispurpose, we developed a new rice extract and tested its activity on collagen I and IIIexpression in cultured human dermal fibroblasts and in skin biopsies.Immunoblotting studies on human fibroblasts revealed that treatment of fibroblastswith 1% of the new extract for 48 hours enhanced collagen I synthesis by 42%.Moreover, this treatment of cells significantly enhanced collagen III synthesis by110%. These results were confirmed by immunostaining experiments on culturedhuman fibroblasts, which showed an increase in collagen I and III synthesis whenthe cells were treated with 1% and 3% of the extract for 24 and 48 hours. Moreover,immunostaining of human ex vivo skin, treated for 24 hours and 48 hours with 1%and 3% of the new extract revealed an enhancement of collagen expression in theseskin samples over the control skin. Taken together, these results suggest that thisnew rice extract can be of great use in antiaging skin care products.

ponsored by ISP

100% is s

J AM ACAD DERMATOL

P229Evaluation of the skin firming benefits of a topical product containinghyaluronic acid and oligo peptides on the face, neck, upper chest, andhands

Christian Oresajo, PhD, L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States; MargaritaYatskayer, MS, L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States; Hani Fares, PhD,L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States; Isabelle Hansenne, PhD, L’OrealRecherche, Clark, NJ, United States

Photodamage is a broad term for skin damage that has resulted as a consequence ofyears of unprotected sun exposure, and is usually characterized by an increase infine lines and wrinkles, skin looseness, and sallowness. In many cases, theseconditions can be improved by the use of a topical firming product. A 12-weekclinical trial was conducted to evaluate the efficacy and tolerance of a skin firmingproduct. Sixty-nine female volunteers between the ages of 35 and 65 years with mildto moderate photodamage on the face and hands (scores 3-8 on a 10-cm scale) wereenrolled in 12-week single-center study. The volunteers applied the test product tothe face, neck, upper chest, and backs of both hands twice a day (morning andnight) for 12 weeks. At the baseline visit, the clinician graded the severity ofphotodamage on the face, neck, upper chest and back of hands using a 0 to 10scale (0 # 3 ¼ mild, 3 # 6 ¼ moderate, and 6 # 10 ¼ severe). Objective andsubjective skin irritation was graded using a 4-point scale (0 ¼ none to 3 ¼ severe).Bioinstrumental measurements of skin firmness and density were taken on the faceand back of hands at the baseline visit and at 6 and 12 weeks. Clinical evaluation wasalso made at 6 and 12 weeks. Results show that the test product was well toleratedand significantly improved the appearance and firmness of the skin on the face,neck, upper chest, and hands over time.

nsored by L’Oreal.

100% spo

P230Comparative clinical assessment of two skin lightening products in femalesubjects with dyschromia

Christian Oresajo, PhD, L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States; MargaritaYatskayer, MS, L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States; Peter Foltis, MS,L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States; Isabelle Hansenne, PhD, L’OrealRecherche, Clark, NJ, United States

Dyschromia is the irregular or patchy discoloration of skin caused by variations inpigment density, vascular changes, hormonal factors, and chronic sun exposure. Inmany cases, the dyschromic condition can be improved by the use of bleach or skinlightening products. Typically, some skin bleaching products are not recognized assafe and effective. There is a growing concern regarding the safety of topicallyapplied hydroquinone in humans even at concentration as low as 1% to 2%. Aclinical trial of 12 weeks’ duration was conducted with 67 women to compare twoskin lightening products for tolerance and efficacy (dyschromia). This single-center,controlled usage study was conducted to evaluate and compare the efficacy andtolerability of two skin lightening products on 67 female volunteers, 18 years of ageor older, having Fitzpatrick skin types II to IV with mild to moderate dyschromia onthe face. The volunteers applied daily either product A or product B to their face for12 weeks. Product B contained 2% hydroquinone (monographed active ingredient)while product A contained vitamin C and Kojic acid. Vitamin C is an antioxidantwhile Kojic acid is a natural product derived from a mushroom. At the baseline visit,the clinician graded the severity of dyschromia on the face using a 10-point visualanalog scale (0 ¼ none to 9 ¼ severe). Objective and subjective skin irritation wasgraded using a 4-point scale (0 ¼ none to 3 ¼ severe). Triplicate chromametermeasurements were taken on the same selected hyperpigmented lesions of the faceat each visit. Images of the right and left sides of the face were captured at baselineand week 12 visits using the VISIA system and analyzed for spots, pores, porphyrins,wrinkles, texture, and UV spots. Subjects returned at 4, 8, and 12 weeks for repeatclinical grading and chromameter measurements. Volunteers completed a self-assessment questionnaire at each study visit. The results demonstrated that productA (vitamin C and Kojic acid) and product B (2% hydroquinone) to be generally safeand are effective treatments for improving the signs of photodamaged skin. Bothclinical grading and bioinstrumentation data showed that product A (vitamin C andKojic acid) is superior to product B (2% hydroquinone) in improving skin radiance,appearance of dyschromia and skin tone. Product A produced significantly lessstinging and tightness than product B.

nsored by L’Oreal.

100% spo

FEBRUARY 2008