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Clothing I

The Packet

STANDARD 1- Students will be able to recognize basic sewing equipment. Objective 1: Identify sewing machine parts and their function, safety, and maintenance. Objective 2: Introduce the serger and its function. Objective 3: Resolve sewing machine malfunctions. Objective 4: Identify sewing equipment, function, and safety procedures.

STANDARD 2- Students will be able to recognize basic pressing equipment. Objective 1: Identify parts and functions of irons. Objective 2: Identify basic pressing equipment and functions.

STANDARD 3- Students will be able to analyze the characteristics and care of specific textiles. Objective 1: Identify basic fibers, the characteristics, use and care of each textile. Objective 2: Discuss how fabric construction affects selection of fabric.

STANDARD 4- Students will use pattern envelope and guide sheet/instructions for pre-construction skills at the introductory level. Objective 1: Identify the information found on the pattern envelope and instruction guide sheet. Objective 2: Complete pattern preparation. Objective 3: Correctly layout the pattern pieces on the fabric. Objective 4: Correctly pin and cut out the fabric pieces. Objective 5: Correctly mark the necessary pattern markings on the fabric pieces.

STANDARD 5- Students will utilize construction techniques at the introductory level. Objective 1: Identify and practice basic construction techniques (basting stitch, back stitching, pivoting, clipping, notching, fold line, grading/layering, interfacing, reinforce stitching, seam allowance, seam finishes, selvage, stitching line, top stitching, and right sides together). Objective 2: Examine and select correct thread for the project. Objective 3: Compare and select correct needles. Objective 4: Identify and construct standard seam widths and markings. Objective 5: Press garment correctly.

________________________________________

Name

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Sewing Machine Parts

Bernina 1008

Match each part of the machine to the picture below.

-Backstitch Knob -Power/Light Switch -Stitch Plate and Feed Dogs

-Bobbin Spindle -Pre-Tension Stud -Stitch Selector

-Bobbin Stop -Presser Foot -Stitch Selector Knob

-Buttonhole Knob -Presser Foot Lever -Stitch Width Knob

-Front Cover -Red Stitches -Take-Up Lever

-Green Stitches -Ruler -Tension Slot

-Handle -Securing Pins for Sewing Table -Thread Cutter

-Handwheel -Sewing Selector Knob -Thread Spool Pin

-Needle Clamp -Stitch Color Indicator -Thread Regulator

-Needle Position Knob -Stitch Length Knob -Upper Thread Tension Adjustment

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Serger Machine Parts Bernina Funlock 004

The details of the serger machine are listed below. Review and become familiar with each part in order to correctly use the machine.

1. Looper Cover 2. Looper Cover Opening Indent 3. Knife Guard 4. Cloth Plate Opening Leaver 5. Cloth Plate 6. Stitch Plate 7. Presser Foot 8. Lower Looper Thread Tension Dial 9. Upper Looper Thread Tension Dial 10. Right Needle Thread Tension Dial 11. Left Needle Thread Tension Dial 12. Thread Take-Up Cover 13. Thread Guide Plate 14. Presser Food Adjusting Screw 15. Sewing Light 16. Power/Light Switch 17. Handwheel 18. Machine Socket 19. Thread Stand 20. Anti-Vibration Cone 21. Spool Holder Pin 22. Retractable Support Rod 23. Thread Guide 24. Open Thread Guide 25. Presser Foot Lifter 26. Foam Pad 27. Stitch Length Adjustment Knob 28. Differential Feed Adjustment Knob

Advantages of Sergers: Cuts excess fabric, sews, and edge finishes Safety Tips: Always leave presser foot down, and do not serge over pins, excessive bulk or zippers.

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Resolving Sewing Machine & Serger Malfunctions If the sewing machine does not sew properly, it is usually due to incorrect use.

BEFORE you ask for help, check the following:

Check whether: *The upper and lower threads are correctly threaded. *The needle has been inserted correctly with the flat side of the shank to the rear. If the upper thread breaks: *The needle is blunt (not sharp). *The upper thread tension is too tight. If the lower thread breaks: *The lower thread tension is too tight. *The bobbin is jammed. *The needle is blunt or bent. If you have skipped stitches: *The needle is blunt, bent or incorrectly inserted. *A different needle is needed. If your needle breaks: *The needle clamp screw is not tight enough. *The thread being used is of poor quality. *The fabric is being pulled while needle is still inserted. If your machine fails to run: *The plug is not inserted correctly. *The power is not on. *The bobbin winder is engaged. *The handwheel is loose.

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Needles

Needle Types *Universal, Sharp, and Ball Point Needle Size/Number

*Use a smaller size/number needle for fine or lightweight fabrics, and larger size/number for denser or thicker fabrics.

Changing Needles *On our sewing machines, groove side should be facing the front of the machine.

The flat side should be facing the back of the machine.

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Pressing Equipment

Using the pressing equipment handout on the following page, cut and past the correct picture with the definition below.

THE PRESSING RULE IS:

Pressing Tips/Guidelines- 1. Pressing is an up & down motion. Ironing is a sliding motion. 2. Never sew over a seam that hasn’t been pressed. 3. Use correct temperatures for fabric/fiber content 4. Use steam/moisture if appropriate. 5. Use a press cloth to prevent scorching and/or shine marks.

Used to make an even

curve on seams and darts while pressing.

Fusible- Interfacing

Pushes out points on projects to get sharp, even

points.

A heated piece of equipment that flattens creases and shapes.

A padded, flat, heat-resistant surface used for ironing. And a

mini-board lets you press sleeves easily.

A thin cloth placed over fabric while ironing. It creates extra

stem when wet.

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Seam Allowances on the Stitch Plate

-Label the seam allowances on the stitch plate picture below.

-Each line on the stitch plate represents a 1/8” measurement. Label each line on the stitch plate

with the correct measurement.

-Remember to convert the fractions into the most commonly used sewing measurement. (For

example, 2/8” is 1/4”.)

A. _____” (Follows the INSIDE Edge of the Presser Foot)

B. _____” (Follows the OUTSIDE Edge of the Presser Foot)

C. _____”

D. _____”

E. _____”

F. _____”

G. _____”

H. _____”

-Now label each line on the ruler below with the correct measurement.

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Textiles

________________________ _______________________

Fiber Type

Principle Use

Major

Characteristics

Care Tips

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Fiber Type Principle Use Major

Characteristics

Care Tips

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Fiber Burn Test

For the following experiment, obtain:

10 mystery samples of fabric, small pie tin, tweezers and matches

Refer to the Fiber Burn Chart on the previous page to help you determine what type of fiber was used in each of the mystery samples. Record your findings below. Be sure to

keep your samples in order. BE CAREFUL and good luck.

Mystery Fiber Flame Color Odor Residue/Ash

Mystery Fiber Conclusion Your

Answer Correct Answer

Sample 1

Sample 2

Sample 3

Sample 4

Sample 5

Sample 6

Sample 7

Sample 8

Sample 9

Sample 10

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Fabric Construction Yarn Twists, Weaving, Pile Weaves, Knits and Non-Wovens

Yarn Twist 1. Twist affects the __________________ of fabric. 2. Twist affects the __________________ of fabric. Silk (Loose)= Smooth vs. Wool (Tight)= Coarse 3. Twist affects the __________________ of fabric. Tightly Twisted = Strong Fabric/Fibers Loosely Twisted = Weak Fabric/Fabrics 4. Twist affects the __________________ of fabric. Several fibers twisted together will add to the diameter of finished fabrics. How

tightly or loosely they are twisted will also affect the diameter. 5. Twist affects the __________________ of the fabric. Tightly Twisted = Less Flexible Yarn/Fabric Loosely Twisted – More Flexible Yarn/Fabric

Fiber Blends 1. Fibers are often ________________ together to increase strength, durability,

absorption and other characteristics. 2. Common Fiber Blends: a. _____________________________ b. _____________________________ c. _____________________________

Thread *Standard thread is “All-Purpose”. *Specialty threads include: quilting, heavy duty, embroidery and metallic. *Serger thread is lighter weight than all purpose sewing machine thread. *Using a high quality thread will reduce and help prevent stitching problems.

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Basic Weaves

1. ____________ Weave 2. ____________ Weave

(under 1, over 1) (under 2, over 2)

3. ____________ Weave 4. ____________ Weave

(under 1, over 4) (under 2, over 2=half basket)

(under 4, over 4=full basket

Woven Fabrics

Fabrics Made from a Plain Weave: Broadcloth, Canvas, Challis, Chambray, Crepe, Duck, Dress Linen, Gingham, Homespun, Monks Cloth, Muslin, Organdy,

Oxford Cloth, Percale, Pongee, Poplin, Sail Cloth, Seersucker, Shantung, Taffeta, Voile

Fabrics Made from a Twill Weave: Calvary Cord, Chino, Convert, Denim, Drill, Flannel, Foulard, Gabardine, Herringbone, Serge, Sharkskin, Surah, Ticking,

Tweed, Whipcord

Fabrics Made from a Satin Weave: Brocade, Damask, Dobby, Jacquard, Pigue, Satin, Sateen, Tapestry

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Pile Weaves

1. Pile weaves are woven with __________________ sets of yarns instead of just one.

Diagram of Pile Weave:

2. The extra yarn gives the final fabric more _____________________. 3. If the loops are close together the surface will be more ______________________.

If the pile is looser, the fabric will _________________ when worn. 4. The back of the pile fabric may be __________, __________ or __________ weave.

The __________________ of the fabric depends upon the base weave construction. 5. If the base is a twill weave, it will be _________________ than if it is a plain weave. 6. Examples of Pile Weave Fabrics: (Staple a sample for each below.)

a. ____________________ b. ____________________ c. ____________________ d. ____________________ e. ____________________

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Knits

1. Knits are popular because: a. __________________________________. b. __________________________________. 2. If the fabric has a ____________________, it will = a. ____________________________________ b. ____________________________________ c. ____________________________________ d. ____________________________________ 3. If the fabric has a ________________, it will have = a. ____________________________________ b. ____________________________________ c. ____________________________________ 4. Diagram of Knits:

5. Examples of Knit Fabrics: (Staple a sample for each below.) a. ____________________

b. ____________________ c. ____________________

d. ____________________ e.____________________

Fabrics Made from Knit or Purl Stitch: Fake-Fur Knits, Fleece, Hosiery (Nylons), Jacquard Knit, Jersey, Intarsia, Lace, Lisle, Milanese, Power-Net, Raschel,

Silver Pile Knit, Simplex, Stockinette, Terrycloth, Tricot, Tulle, Velour

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Non-Woven Fabrics 1. Making fabric _____________________ knitting or weaving 2. The Felting Process: a. _______________________________________________ b. _______________________________________________: -_____________________________ -_____________________________

Felt 1. Felt comes in a variety of ___________________, are easy to _____________, will

not _______________ and has shock and sound _____________________. 2. Felt will not recover from ___________________, and holes in it cannot be

______________________ satisfactorily.

Interfacing 1. Interfacing is a non-woven fabric used to ________________ and ______________

other fabrics. 2. Interfacing comes in a variety of _______________ and ______________________. 3. Most modern interfacings have heat-activated ________________ on one side.

These are called “_________________” interfacings.

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Fabric Grains

A & D: ________________ These edges will ravel and fray. They are the edges that are cut by the fabric attendant at the store.

B: ____________________ This edge is created when the two selvage edges are folded together. The fold is the opposite side of the selvage edges.

C: ____________________ This is smooth edge of woven fabrics. The selvage edge runs parallel to the straight of grain/lengthwise grain. It is a really tight weave so it won’t ravel or fray.

E: ____________________ This grain of the fabric is a 45 degree (diagonal) angel from the straight of grain/lengthwise grain and the cross grain. The true bias direction has the most stretch in woven fabrics.

F: ____________________ This symbol is used to indicate there is a fold in the fabric. The fold is on the opposite side of the selvage edges. See “B”.

G: ____________________ This grain runs parallel to the selvage edge. This direction of the fabric is usually the strongest, stiffest, and the least likely to stretch. The lengthwise grain should be placed vertically on each garment piece.

H: ____________________ This grain is perpendicular to the straight of grain/lengthwise grain and the selvage edges. The cross grain usually is less stiff, less strong and slightly more stretchy than the straight of grain/lengthwise grain.

Key steps when working with woven fabrics: 1. Preshrink fabrics with high cotton content. 2. Press and straighten grain lines if necessary. 3. Check for one-way or nap layouts. 4. Identify the correct pattern layout to use. 5. Check the straight of grain. 6. Double check all pattern pieces before cutting.

A

C

B

D

F E

G

H

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Staining Lab

1. Make a list of the 8 stains that occur most often on your clothing. a. ____________________ e. ________________________ b. ____________________ f. ________________________ c. ____________________ g. ________________________ d. ____________________ h. ________________________

2. Choose 3 of the stains you listed above for this experiment. Write them here: a. ________________ b. ________________ c. _________________

3. Serge around the fabric provided by the teacher.

4. Divide the sample into 9 squares using a sharpie marker. Label 3 squares #1, 3 squares #2, and 3 squares #3.

5. Take your sample home and stain three squares with each of the stains you listed above.

(For example, if you chose lipstick as your “A” stain, you would stain the sections labeled #1 on your sample fabric with lipstick.)

6. After you have stained your samples, apply a stain removal technique. You can use any stain removal technique desired.

7. Record your results below and staple each of your sample to the next page.

Stain #1:

_____________

Stain #2: _____________

Stain #3: _____________

Stain Removal Technique Was it effective?

Stain Removal Technique Was it effective?

Stain Removal Technique Was it effective?

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Staining Lab Samples Staple your sample from the “Staining Lab” below.

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Rules of Clothing Care

What are some basic rules of clothing care? How do you treat the following stains? Rule #1 Rule #2

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How to Measure

To make a garment that fits properly you must begin by selecting the correct pattern size. Taking accurate body measurements is the first step in determining which size pattern is best for you.

1. Bust: Measure over the fullest point of the bust, under the arms and around the widest part of the back.

2. Waistline: Take a firm measurement around the natural waist indentation.

3. Hip: Measure around the fullest part of the hip, about 7 to 9 inches down from the natural waistline.

4. Back Waist Length: Measure from the prominent bone at the base of the neck, down the spine to the bottom edge of the waist.

5. Arm Length: With arm bent, measure from the outermost point of the shoulder down to the wrist.

Personal Body Measurements

Individually, or with a partner, take each of your personal measurements listed and record them below.

UPPER BODY

High Bust (#1)

Full Bust (#2) ***

LOWER BODY

Waist (#11) ***

Full Hip (Seat- #12) ***

High Hip (#18)

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Reading the Pattern Envelope

Using the Pattern Envelope Copies on the following pages, answer the questions below.

Follow the Pattern for Skirt View E

1. What is the pattern number? 2. Which pattern company does the pattern come from? What is the Brand Name? 3. Measure yourself and fill in the following measurements: Bust: __________ Waist: _______ Hips: _________ Back to Waist: ________ 4. According to your body measurements, what size should you make? ____________ -Are you a combination of sizes? __________ -If so, what size should you make? ___________ 5. What is the size range that the pattern offers? 6. Based on your measurements/size, how much material do you need to buy? 45” wide: ___________ or 60” wide: ____________ 7. What are the suggested fabrics the pattern recommends for this article of clothing?

8. Is additional fabric needed for matching plaids or stripes? 9. Is this pattern suitable for one-way design fabrics? 10. What notions are required to complete this project-(only Skirt View E)? 11. How much and what kind of Interfacing do you need? 12. What are the finished garment measurements for Skirt View E for your size?

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Using the Pattern Guide Sheet Copies on the following pages, answer the

questions below.

Follow the Pattern for Skirt View E.

13. What size seam allowance does the pattern call for? 14. Copy a picture of the fabric key below. Then, explain what this diagram shows

you.

Draw a copy of the following pattern markings and explain what they mean: 15. Fold:

16. Notches:

17. Straight of Grain:

18. Cutting Lines:

19. How do you know which directions to follow?

20. How do you know which pictured layout to use?

21. List the numbers of all pattern pieces you will need to use for Skirt View E.

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Pattern Envelope-Front Side

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Pattern Envelope-Back Side

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Pattern Guide Sheet

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Pattern Guide Sheet-cont.

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Cut and paste these into your notes.

Pressing Cloth Ironing Board Steam Iron

Point Press Sleeve Board Tailor’s Ham

PRESS AS YOU GO/SEW!!! (Press after each step.)

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Rules of Clothing Care: 1- Treat stains immediately 2- Avoid setting stain with heat! 3- Washing wears out clothing 4- Repairs should be done after washing, but before putting it away. 5- Read labels and clean properly 6- close zippers before laundering 7- Hot water gets clothes cleanest, but also causes shrinkage or

damage 8- Cold water doesn’t clean as well, but conserves energy- Use a good

detergent 9- Don’t overload the washer 10- Sort clothing before washing! Consider the following: bleeding

colors, bleach, white only, like fabrics together, linty fabrics, delicate fabrics, really dirty clothing!

11- Remove clothes from dryer ASAP 12- Clean lint tray 13- Never use bleach directly on clothing! 14- Put detergent in water, dissolve, then add clothing.

Treating Stains:

*Blood- Cold Water *Cosmetics- Cleaning Fluid *Nail Polish- Polish remover (except on Acetate) *Gum- Freezer/ice cubes, Peanut butter *Grass- Hottest water possible for fabric *Grease/oil- Blot/stain remover *Perspiration- Ammonia, white vinegar *Soft Drinks- Cool water *Paint- Do not let dry! Latex- wash, oil-based- turpentine *Chocolate- Scrape off, stain remover *Mildew- Chlorine bleach

#1 rule when working with stains:

Treat the stain immediately! #2 rule when working with stains:

Do not apply heat!!!

Rules of Clothing Care: 1- Treat stains immediately 2- Avoid setting stain with heat! 3- Washing wears out clothing 4- Repairs should be done after washing, but before putting it away. 5- Read labels and clean properly 6- close zippers before laundering 7- Hot water gets clothes cleanest, but also causes shrinkage or

damage 8- Cold water doesn’t clean as well, but conserves energy- Use a good

detergent 9- Don’t overload the washer 10- Sort clothing before washing! Consider the following: bleeding

colors, bleach, white only, like fabrics together, linty fabrics, delicate fabrics, really dirty clothing!

11- Remove clothes from dryer ASAP 12- Clean lint tray 13- Never use bleach directly on clothing! 14- Put detergent in water, dissolve, then add clothing.

Treating Stains:

*Blood- Cold Water *Cosmetics- Cleaning Fluid *Nail Polish- Polish remover (except on Acetate) *Gum- Freezer/ice cubes, Peanut butter *Grass- Hottest water possible for fabric *Grease/oil- Blot/stain remover *Perspiration- Ammonia, white vinegar *Soft Drinks- Cool water *Paint- Do not let dry! Latex- wash, oil-based- turpentine *Chocolate- Scrape off, stain remover *Mildew- Chlorine bleach

#1 rule when working with stains:

Treat the stain immediately! #2 rule when working with stains:

Do not apply heat!!!

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