Clase III - Las Fibras Textiles Parte II

8/2/2019 Clase III - Las Fibras Textiles Parte II

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Objetivo:

Reconocer la clasificacin de las fibrastextiles, caractersticas y usos.
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3.- LA LANA

La lana fue una de las primeras fibras que se transformaron enhilos y telas.La lana corresponde al velln de la oveja. El termino incluye

legalmente a toda fibra de pelo que varia desde la cabra deangora, la cabra de cachemira, el camello, alpaca, llama yvicua.


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La lana proviene de varias fuentes:

Lana esquilada: de ovejas vivas.

Lana apelambrada: de las pieles de ovejas para carne.

Lana reutilizada: de prendas de vestir usadas.Lana reprocesada: de recortes y desperdicios de telas nuevas.


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Morfologa de la lana Cutcula: parte externa,

compuesta por laEpicuticula, Exocuticula y

Endocuticula Membrana celular compleja.

Cortex

Estructura en hlice


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Composicin Qumica de la Lana La lana recin obtenida contiene

impurezas (entre 1/2 2/3 de supeso)

a) Suint (suarda): residuos productos del

sudor del animalb) Grasasc) Tierra, arena, pajas y excremento:

depende del origen, se eliminandurante el proceso de lavado.

d) Escardillo: Fibras vegetalesprovenientes de los pastizales, quepresentan una forma dentada y seencuentran enganchadas a la fibra dela lana, Se eliminan por mediomecnico


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Ubicacin

Parte del cuerpo Calidad

1 - 2 hombros y flancos Largas, finas, suaves y uniformes

3 - 4 riones y cuello Largas, finas, suaves y uniformes peroen pequea proporcin.

5 - 6 nuca y espalda Calidad media

7- 8 Cola y vientre Corta, sucias

9 10 -11

Garganta, pecho y piernas Cortas, sucias y fibras tiesas

12 - 13 Cabeza y patas Calidad inferior

Distribucinde la Fibra
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Clasificacin

Lanas finas: proviene de la raza merino.

Lanas semi-finas: proviene de cruce de razas, el velln esmenos regular que el de la oveja merino.

Lana gruesas o comunes: Son largas menos suaves, provienede ovejas de zonas hmedas y fras.
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Denominacin en las etiquetas

PURA LANA VIRGENProviene nica y directamente de la oveja, sin

mezcla alguna.

LANA PEINADACompuesta por fibras largas (estambre, ms de 7cm.), obtenindose un hilado fino y regular(paera).

LANA CARDADAFibras cortas y largas mezcladas, con hilos gruesosy voluminosos.
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4.- LA ALPACA

El velln de la alpaca es fino ylivianoResiste a la radiacin solar

Variedades: suri y huacaya
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Caractersticas Longitud: 7.0 - 23 cm

Finura: 10 - 75 micrones

Peso del velln: 2.5 4.5 Kg. Color: 16 colores, blanco al negro, toda

la gana del beige.

Composicin: contiene gran cantidad ycuerpos abrasivos dependiendo del origen
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ClasificacinBaby Alpaca: se obtiene de la primera trasquila del animal, es la fibramas fina del animal varia entre 14 27 micrones

Alpaca Sper fina: es la parte del velln que corresponde a unmicronaje de 25-27 micrones.

Alpaca Huarizo: con una medida de 28 30 micrones.

Alpaca Adultos: finura media superior a 31 micrones, es responsable de

la idea que la alpaca PICA por ser gruesa y rgida

Royal Alpaca: se obtiene del descremado del Baby Alpaca, es decirseparar la parte fina de los vellones de Baby Alpaca, con una media de18 a 19 micrones
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5.- LA VICUA

TEXTO
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Caractersticas

Longitud: 2 - 4 cm Finura: 8 - 17 micrones

Peso del velln: 125 200gramos. Color: canelo claro


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6.- LA SEDA

Fibra de la que se compone el capulloque cubre al gusano de seda, valiosapor su uso en tejidos de alta calidad

y otros productos textiles.

Esta materia fibrosa es segregada porel Bombyx mori (gusano de seda), elhilo de la seda obtiene por el

devanado de los capullos
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Longitud: Filamento continuo

Finura: 15-25 micrones

Color: blanquecinos, amarillento

Elasticidad: dbil en estado seco, mas elevadaal estado hmedo.

Presenta una carga electrosttica elevada

Lustre natural Buenas cualidades de cada

Caractersticas
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La Sericultura es el nombre que se le da a la produccin de laseda cultivada, que se inicia con la mariposa de seda que depositasus huevos sobre papeles especialmente preparados.Cuando los huevos se rompen los gusanos se alimentan con hojastiernas de morera. Despus de 35 das aprox. los gusanos tienenun peso de 10 mil veces mayor al que tenan al nacer y estnllenos de seda lquida. Se colocan ramas para que los gusanosempiecen a hilar sus capullos. En 2 a 3 das el gusano ha hiladoalrededor de una milla de filamento y se ha rodeado por completode un capullo, luego de ello el gusano se transforma en mariposa.

Para obtener la seda el capullo se hierve para matar las larvas yluego se procede con el devanado del filamento


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7.- LA ANGORA

Angora: Proveniente del pelo deconejo de Angora,

fibra suave y brillante.
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Fibras Qumicas

Las que son manufacturadas por elhombre

Las fibras qumicas se obtienen pormedio de una sustancia fundida odisuelta, la cual es extrada a travsde orificios de una hilera y despuses solidificada en forma de

filamentos
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Fibras ArtificialesFibra que se obtiene por

transformacin qumica depolmeros extrados dematerias naturales.Conocidas tambin comoFibras Regeneradas

La gran mayora de fibras deorigen natural es derivadade la celulosa extrada devegetales. La mas usada esla viscosa, acetato y masrecientemente el Tencel yel Lyocell.

Fibras Sintticas

Fibras fabricadas porpolimerizacion de

hidrocarburos.Las principales fibras

qumicas producidasson Poliamida (Nylon),Polister (Tergal),

Acrlico (Crylor)Elastan (Lycra)
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Tipos de Hilatura
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Fibras Artificiales

La celulosa de la madera (ejem eucalipto) finalmente trituradaes tratada hasta disolucin para formar una masa fluida que espasada por una hilera y separada posteriormente del

disolvente quedando transformada en filamentos de celulosa.Es precisamente el sistema de disolucin lo que proporcionaun tipo u otro de celulosa regenerada

Los sistemas hasta ahora empleados son altamente

contaminadores y consumidores de agua, es por eso que unsistema de obtencin de fibras de celulosa regenerada en elcual se utilicen disolventes reciclables ser apreciado desde elpunto de vista ecolgico y econmico


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Viscosa: proviene de una celulosa regenerada, es obtenida por ladisolucin de celulosa de madera o de pequeas fibras de algodn nohilables llamadas linter.

Tencel - Lyocell: proviene de una celulosa regenerada cuyo proceso es

considerado ecolgico; presenta bajo ndice de encogimiento. Sonmucho mas resistentes que la viscosa

Modal o Polinosica: alto modulo de elasticidad.
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Hilatura en hmedo

Viscosa
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Tacto suave

Tendencia al pilling, bajaresistencia al frote

Sus usos son: blusas,vestidos, ropa interior,ropa de trabajo, ropadeportiva.

Esta fibra se suele mezclar

con lana

Propiedades de la Fibra de Viscosa
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Propiedades de la Fibra de Lyocel - Tencel

Es una fibra que absorbela humedad y estotalmente biodegradable

Es muy resistente tantoen seco como en hmedo

Bajo ndice deencogimiento

Tela con cada y tacto

agradable
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Fibras Sintticas

Estas fibras son muy empleadas en mezclas, principalmente confibras naturales.

Polister: Las fibras de polister tienen una excelenteresistencia a la ruptura y al arrugamiento, lo que en mezclascon fibras naturales aumenta esta propiedad.

Elastan: es una fibra elstica y que transfiere estaspropiedades a los artculos con los que son mezclados. Esta

fibra exige cuidados muy especiales en su manipulacin
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La primera etapa de la fabricacin de fibras qumicas es hechaen un reactor qumico por una reaccin llamadapolimerizacin. En la polimerizacin 2 productos qumicos (A y

B) reaccionan formando un tercer producto (AB), llamadomonmero. Enseguida los monmeros reaccionan entre siformando una larga cadena molecular llamada polmero

Fabricacin del Polmero

A + B AB (Monmero)

AB + AB + AB + (AB+ AB + AB + AB)n

(polmero)
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Hilatura en Polister

En la fabricacin del pes, elpolmero es fundido porprecalentamiento yenseguida, es presionado,por una ducha llamadasarta, contra una corriente

de aire fro. Entonces seforman FILAMENTOS que irna sufrir estiramiento, torsiny enrollamiento
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Propiedades de la Fibra de Polister Alta resistencia a la tensin

Buena resistencia a las arrugas

Buena resistencia a la luz

Baja absorcin de la humedad Termoplstica (propiedad que

permite la termofijacin y latexturizacin) pueden sufrirtratamientos mediante calor

Teida con colorantes dispersos
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Hilatura en

Poliamida
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Propiedades de la Fibra de Nylon Fibra de gran resistencia mecnica,

una vez fijada por el calor noencoge.

Gran resistencia a las arrugas

Es elstica, tienen una elasticidadsuperior a la seda

Es propensa a la creacin de pilling

Absorbe muy poca humedad de laatmosfera por lo que permitesecarse muy rpidamente

Se utiliza mucho en pendasinteriores y exteriores (medias)
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Hilatura en

Acrlico

Nombres comerciales

DralonVilcrenCashmillon
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MICROFIBRAS

Son una nueva generacin de fibras que ofrecen nuevasperspectivas en el diseo y la moda.Son hechas por el hombre, producidas en un rango menor de

1.0 dtex y hasta 0.3 dtex.Con este tipo de fibras se obtienen excelentes propiedadesaplicables al vestuario normal por lo tanto son fibras con unalto precio.

PROPIEDADES

Tacto muy suave y sedosoAlto confort de las prendasExcelente durabilidad y resistenciaUna cada de tela similar al de las fibras naturales
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Gracias
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Documents

Clase III - Las Fibras Textiles Parte II