Clariant report

GUIDANCE

MR. PRABHAT TRIVEDICLARIANT CHEMICALS INDIA

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SHASHWAT GUPTA VRUSHALI WARGHE

IIIrd Year Fibres and textiles processing technology INSTITUTE OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY, MUMBAI

INDEX

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Serial No. Topic Page No.A. Acknowledgement 3B. Company Profile 4C. Introduction To Textile Finishing 15D. Project: Effect Labels For The Apparel

Segment36

1. Moisture Management 372. Antimicrobial finishes 48

2.1 Hydry 542.2 Mosquito protection 66

3. Resin finishes 713.1 Easy wear 753.2 Easy care & comfort 823.3 Wash & wear(Moist Cure) 903.4 Wash & wear(LT Cure) 953.5 Premium Eco Care 98

4. Soil Release Finishes 1044.1 Soil & Stain Release 1114.2 Easy Clean & Comfort 118

5. UV Protection 1236. Repellent finishes 128

6.1 Repellence Protection 1476.2 Care 4 Comfort 1596.3 Rapid Dry 165

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INSTITUTE OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY

MATUNGA, MUMBAI-400019

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Being a part of “Clariant India Ltd, Kolshet” was just a dream for us but the continuous and indelible effort of the teachers made it really possible.

We are thankful to Mr. Prabhat Trivedi Sir (GENERAL MANAGER) who gave us the opportunity for carrying out in-plant training at Clariant chemicals India Ltd, Kolshet Thane.

We are very much thankful to Mrs. Pratima Pathak (FINISHING) for her valuable guidance and co-operation throughout the project.

Special thanks to, Mr. Rajesh Tendulkar (COATING),Mrs. Dipali Patil (DYEING) Mr. Prashant Nabar (KMO), Mr Neeraj Mishra(Central Region) for constantly answering our various queries and providing us with the necessary information we required.

Lastly we are thankful to all the staff of Clariant India Ltd, Kolshet who gave sufficient information and co-operation for fulfilling the project. We are highly thankful to Prof. Dr. R.V. Adivarekar Sir, Head of Department, Division of Fibres and Textiles Processing Technology and Prof. Mr. R.D. Kale Sir for arranging this in-plant training program.

COMPANY PROFILE:

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OVERVIEWClariant AG is a global specialty chemicals company, headquartered in Muttenz, Switzerland, that is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange. As one of the world’s leading specialty chemical companies, Clariant contributes to value creation with innovative and sustainable solutions for customers from many industries. It is designed to meet very specific needs with as much precision as possible. At the same time, Clariant’s research and development is focused on addressing the key trends of the time. These include energy efficiency, renewable raw materials, emission-free mobility, and conserving finite resources. Its business units are divided into six market segments:

1.Consumer Care

Lotions and potions: shampoos, gels, creams, cosmetics. Clariant’s got the ingredients, from cleaners to moisturisers to emulsifiers and more, plus massive know-how in formulation, performance and regulations.

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2.Industrial Applications

Behind the scenes in the world’s farms and factories, Clariant is busy greasing the wheels of production. Its chemicals facilitate the making of life’s staples: food, clothes, buildings, paper and cardboard. Plus, they keep factories running and airports ice-free.

3.Plastics & Coatings

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Clariant supplies a large variety of pigments and additives needed for coloring, processing and protecting – either individually or in a combined concentrate called a masterbatch.

4.Energy

It’s a long, hard journey from the well to the wheels. Clariant makes it shorter and easier with products that boost productivity in finding, producing and refining oil and its associated petrochemicals. A leader in alternative energy, making electrodes for high-powered batteries that are revolutionizing road transport.

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5.Resources

As world population goes from peak to peak, so too does demand for two of life’s basics: water and minerals. Clariant chemicals clean water – for drinking, for industrial use, for safe discharge to the environment. In the mining industry, it supplies compounds that: separate minerals from their surrounding ore, suppress dust in and around mines, and allow safe, reliable blasting.

6.Biotech

Clariant´s Biotech & Renewables Center (BRC) revolves entirely around industrial biotechnology. Focus is on progress and innovation based on the sustainable use of renewable resources.

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It also creates solutions for biocatalysis and biorefining. Our innovative focus is on energy and resource-efficient development and production of bio-based chemicals and fuels.

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HISTORY

Clariant was formed in 1995 as a spin off from the chemical company Sandoz, which was itself established in Basel in 1886. Clariant expanded through the incorporation of the speciality chemicals business of Hoechst (Germany) in 1997, and the acquisitions of BTP plc (UK) in 2000 and Ciba’s Master batches division in 2006. In 2008, IT acquired the leading U.S. colorant suppliers Rite Systems and Ricon Colors. The latest acquisition, the highly-innovative specialty chemicals company Süd-Chemie (Germany), was completed on 21 April 2011.

MISSION

CLARIANT’S mission clearly expresses what is important to it and what it stands for – as a brand and as a company.

It has leading positions in the businesses and adopts functional

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excellence as part of its culture. Clariant creates value through appreciating the needs of:

Customers– by providing competitive and innovative solutions.

Employees– by adhering to our corporate values. Environment – by acting sustainably. Shareholders – by achieving above-average returns.

STRUCTURE

The Clariant organizational structure comprises 11 Business Units, as well as Business Services, Group Technology Services, regional Service Centers, and Corporate Center, where key functions are centralized. The Executive Committee is responsible for the management of the Group.

SUSTAINABILITY OVERVIEW

1. PEOPLE

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Responsibility for employees is an integral part of Clariant’s corporate culture. This includes observing a globally applicable Code of Conduct and implementing equal rights.As outlined in the Clariant Employment Policy, Clariant acknowledges its responsibility to its employees and is commited to mutual respect, trust and integrity. Clariant recognizes the human rights of all employees and respects their constitutional rights, in particular their human dignity and personal freedom, equality and freedom of opinion.

2. PLANET

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Clariant is proactively committed to considering environmental protection and safety in all of its activities. Each of its worldwide facilities is required to adhere strictly to the principles of the sustainability and safety code outlined by the Group’s Environment, Safety & Health Department (ESH). It uses clear Key Performance Indicators upon which improvements in terms of resource efficiency, emissions and waste per ton of finished product are measured. In order to achieve a constant improvement of environmental performance it has formulated environmental and sustainability goals for 2020.

3. PERFORMANCE

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As a global leader in the field of specialty chemicals, Clariant is committed to sustainable corporate growth and management through the use and development of cutting-edge technology. In this respect, it does not limit itself to compliance with legal requirements. It also participates in a number of voluntary sustainability programs that cover all products and processes within the Group.

4. FURTHER ENGAGEMENT

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Clariant is member in a wide range of industry associations globally, regionally and nationally.

Being part of Cefic, the European Chemical Industry Council, Clariant plays an active role in policy making and dialogue processes.

Since 2010 Clariant has issued a separate Sustainability Report. In 2012 and 2013, Clariant’s Sustainability Report was rated by GRI with A+, which includes the external assurance of the report submitted to GRI.

Clariant has given its support to the Responsible Care® Global Charter with the signing of the Responsible Care® declaration by CEO Hariolf Kottmann.

The Responsible Care® Global Charter is the result of an agreement of the members of the International Council of Chemical Associations (ICAA) to create a global vision and highlight the commitment of the industry to continuous improvement in the environmental, health and safety performance of the chemical producers worldwide.

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INTRODUCTIONTO

TEXTILE FINISHING

1. DEFINITION

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Textile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of fibers, fabrics, or clothings, etc in order to impart the required functional properties to them. For this,it is customary to subject the material to different type of physical and chemical treatments. For example wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease free or wrinkle free. In a similar way, mercerising, singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, water proof, antistatic finish, peach finish etc are some of the important finishes applied to textiles.

2. CLASSIFICATION

Broadly it can be classified into two major classes, which are used individually or in combination with each other. (other terms are also used such as wet finishing, dry finishing, durable finishes and non durable finishes).

2.1 Mechanical Finishing

Involves the application of physical principles such as friction, temperature, pressure, tension and many others. The various types of mechanical finishes are:

2.1.1 Calendering:It is a process of passing cloth between rollers (or "calendars"), usually under carefully controlled heat and pressure, to produce a variety of surface textures or effects in fabric such as compact, smooth, supple, flat and glazed. One of the calendar is a highly polished, usually heated, steel bowl which rotates at a higher surface speed than the softer (e.g. cotton or paper packed) bowl against which it works, thus producing a glaze on the face of the fabric that is in contact with the steel bowl. The friction ratio is the ratio of the peripheral speed of the faster steel bowl to that of the slower bowl and is normally in the range 1.5 to 3.0.. During calendering, the yarns in the fabric are squashed into a flattened elliptical shape; the intersections are made to close-up between the yarns. This causes the fabric surface to become flat and compact. The improved planeness of surface in turn improves the glaze of the fabric. The calender machines may have several rollers.

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2.1.2 Compacting:Durable finish imparted on man-made and knitted fabrics by employing heat and pressure to shrink them to produce a crepe and bulky texture.

2.1.3 Emerising(or sueding):Emerising (also known as sueding or sanding, in the USA) is a process in which fabric at openwidth is passed over one or more rotating emery-covered rollers to produce a suede-like finish. Woven and knitted fabrics and also laminated fabrics may be emerised, the surface appearance, texture and handle of the treated fabric being altered according to the emerising conditions.

2.1.4 Raising/Teaseling or Napping:Raising and teaselling (sometimes called gigging and napping) are widely used to modify the surface of wool and blend fabrics. The general aim of these processes is to develop a fibrous or pile surface (sometimes called a nap) on the fabric by drawing fibres from the yarns to the surface of the cloth. This surface can be required to obtain the visual and tactile (full and soft) characteristics of meltons and velours, to conceal the weave or to impart a smooth, planar surface to those fabric where it is required in later use (for example, billiard cloth).

2.1.5 Pressing: Pressing operations are designed to flatten wool and wool-blend fabrics and modify their surface geometry by squeezing them between two smooth surfaces under high pressure and using elevated temperatures. Pressing reduces the thickness of wool fabrics and imparts the smooth handle and lustre required in a range of fabric types. A subsequent permanent setting operation is required to ‘stabilise’ or renderpermanent the effects imparted by pressing.

2.1.6 Shearing:Shearing is an important preparatory stage in the processing of cotton cloth. The objective of "Shearing" is to remove fibres and loose threads from the surface of the fabric, thus improving surface finish.

2.1.7 Stabilization:A term usually referring to fabrics in which the dimensions have been set

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by a suitable preshrinking operation

2.1.8 Decating:Also called decatizing. A finishing process applied to fabrics to set the material, enhance lustre and improve the hand. Fabric wound onto a perforated roller is immersed in hot water or has steam blown through it.

2.1.8 Steaming and Heat setting:It is done by using high temperatures to stabilize fabrics containing polyester, nylon, or triacetate but not effective on cotton or rayon.It may be performed in fabrics or garment. It may cause shade variation from side-to-side.

2.1.9 Sanforizing or Pre Shrinking: Sanforizing is a process where by the fabric is run through a sanforizer; a machine that has drums filled with hot steam. This process is done to control the shrinkage of the fabric.The fabric is given an optimum dimensional stability by applying mechanic forces and water vapour.

2.1.10 Fulling:The structure, bulk and shrinkage of wool are modified by applying heat combined with friction and compression.

2.2 Chemical Finishing

The finishes applied by means of chemicals of different origins, a fabric can receive properties otherwise impossible to obtain with mechanical means.

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2.2.1 Softening: Softening is carried out when the softness characteristics of a certain fabric must be improved, considering the composition and properties of the substrate as well as those of the chemicals.

2.2.2 Elastomeric Finishes:Elastomeric finishes are also referred to as stretch or elastic finishes and are particularly important for knitwear. These finishes are currently achieved only with silicone-based products. The main effect is durable elasticity, because not only must extensibility be enhanced, but recovery from deformation is of crucial importance. After all stresses and disturbing forces have been released, the fabric should return to its original shape.

2.2.3 Crease Resistant or Crease Proofing:Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton, linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily. Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning.

2.2.4 Soil Release Finishes:These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil.

2.2.5 Flame Retardant Treatment:Are applied to combustible fabrics used in children's sleepwear, carpets ,curtains, etc and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame.

2.2.6 Anti Pilling:Pilling is a phenomenon exhibited by fabrics formed from spun yarns (yarns made from staple fibres). Pills are masses of tangled fibres that appear on fabric surfaces during wear or laundering. Fabrics with pills have an unsightly appearance and an unpleasant handle. Loose fibres are pulled from yarns and are formed into spherical balls by the frictional forces of abrasion. These balls of tangled fibres are held to the fabric surface by longer fibres called anchor fibres.

Anti pilling finish reduces the forming of pills on fabrics and knitted products made from yarns with a synthetic-fibre content, which are inclined to pilling by their considerable strength, flexibility and resistance to impact. Anti pilling finish is based on the use of chemical treatments

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which aim to suppress the ability of fibres to slacken and also to reduce the mechanical resistance of synthetic fibre.

2.2.7 Non Slip Finish:A finish applied to a yarn to make it resistant to slipping and sliding when in contact with another yarn.The main effect of non-slip finishes is to increase the adhesion between fibres and yarns regardless of fabric construction, the generic term for these finishes would be fibre and yarn bonding finishes. Other terms that can be used include anti-slip, non-shift and slip-proofing finishes.

2.2.8 Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes: Prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics. Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both. Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture. Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture.

2.2.9 Oil and Water Proofing:Waterproof Finishes -Allows no water to penetrate, but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body. Recently, fabrics have been developed that are waterproof, yet are also breathable

2.2.10 Water-Repellent Finishes: Water-repellent finishes resist wetting. If the fabric becomes very wet, water will eventually pass through. Applied to fabrics found in raincoats, all-weather coats, hats, capes, umbrellas and shower curtains.

2.2.11 Absorbent Finishes:Increase fibres' moisture holding power. Such finishes have been applied to towels, cloth diapers, underwear, sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important.

2.2.12 Anti Static Finish:Reduce static electricity which may accumulate on fibres. The most common type of anti-static finishes are fabric softeners.

2.2.13 Antimicrobial finish: Provides the various benefits of controlling the infestation by microbes, protect textiles from staining, discoloration, and quality deterioration and prevents the odor formation. Anti-microbial agents can be applied to the

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textile substrates by exhaust, pad-dry-cure, coating, spray and foam techniques. The application of the finish is now extended to textiles used for outdoor, healthcare sector, sports and leisure.

2.2.14 UV Protection Finish:Fabric treated with UV absorbers ensures that the clothes deflect the harmful ultraviolet rays of the sun, reducing a person's UVR exposure and protecting the skin from potential damage. The extent of skin protection required by different types of human skin depends on UV radiation intensity and distribution with reference togeographical location, time of day, and season. This protection is expressed as SPF (Sun Protection Factor), higher the SPF value better is the protection against UV radiation.

2.2.15 Colorfastness Improving Finish:Color fastness is the resistance of a material to change in any of its color characteristics, to the transfer of its colorants to adjacent materials or both. Fading means that the color changes and lightens. Bleeding is the transfer of color to a secondary, accompanying fibre material. This is often expressed as soiling or staining meaning that the accompanying material gets soiled or stained.

The physical and chemical principles involved in the performance of the fastness improving finishes concern either the interaction with the dyestuff or with the fibre or both.

The finishes are applied to:a. Improve the colorfastness to washingb. Improve the colorfastness to crockingc. Improve the colorfastness to lightd. Improve the colorfastness to weatheringe. Improve the colorfastness to chemicals washes such as mild bleaching, dry cleaning and commercial washing.

2.2.16 Plasma finish:Plasma treatment is a surface modifying process, where a gas (air, oxygen, nitrogen, argon, carbon dioxide and so on), injected inside a reactor at a pressure of approximately 0.5 mbar, is ionised by the presence of two electrodes between which is a high-frequency electric field. The need to create the vacuum is justified by the necessity to obtain so called cold plasma with a temperature no higher than 80 °C. This, with

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the same energy content that can be reached at atmospheric pressure at a temperature of some thousands of degrees Celcius, permits the treatment of fabrics even with a low melting point such as polypropylene and polyethylene, without causing any form of damage.The fabric, sliding through the electrodes, is subject to a true bombardment from the elements that constitute the plasma (ions, electrons, UV radiation and so on) and which come from the decomposition of gas and contain a very high level of kinetic energy. The surface of the fabric exposed to the action of the plasma is modified, both physically (roughness), as well as chemically, to remove organic particles still present and to prepare for the successive introduction of free radicals and new chemical groups inside the molecular chain on the surface of the material. The mechanical properties remain, on the other hand, unaltered, as the treatment is limited to the first molecular layers.

2.2.17 Enzyme Finishing:Bio polishing, also called bio-finishing, is a finishing process applied to cellulosic textiles that produces permanent effects by the use of enzymes. Bio-finishing removes protruding fibres and slubs from fabrics, significantly reduces pilling, softens fabric hand and provides a smooth fabric appearance, especially forknitwear and as a pretreatment for printing.

3.TESTS FOR ASSESSING THE PERFORMANCE OF THE FINISH

3.1. TENSILE STRENGTH OF FABRIC

3.1.1 Test method: ASTM D5034 - 09

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3.1.2 Preparation of Test Specimen:1. Cut 5 Strips each in Warp & in Weft direction of size 30 cms. X

5 cms.2. Revel the 0.5cms. Side of Strip from both sides till it becomes

exactly 4 cms. Wide.3. This reveled strip is used for testing Tensile Strength.

3.1.3 Procedure:

1. Switch ‘ON’ the Mains. Switch ‘ON’ the Lower button on the panel of the machine. (Light glows indicates Power supply is ON)

2. Press the upper push button on the panel to bring the Lower grip to its top most position. After reaching there the motor stops automatically.

3. Press the Lower push button on the panel to bring the Lower grip downward till it reaches 20 cms. Mark. Stop the machine by pressing red button.

4. Lock the upper grip by turning the locking lever on the top cover, anticlockwise.

5. Loosen the upper plates of both the Lower & Upper grips by turning the tightening bolt.

6. Insert the fabric in the Upper grip. Tighten the grip so that the upper end of the strip is held tightly.

7. Insert the other end of the Strip in the Lower grip. Pull the specimen taut & hold it firmly in the Lower grip.

8. Tighten the grips fully with the help of the handle provided.9. Unlock the upper grip by turning the locking lever clockwise. 10.Bring the red pointer to Zero by turning the knob in the

center of the dial anticlockwise. 11.Press the lower push button on the panel. The grips would start

separating.12.As soon as the specimen breaks note down the reading of

scale against pointer on the lower grip & also the reading shown by the red pointer on the dial.

13.Repeat the above procedure & determine the breaking load for the remaining test specimens.

14.If the load exerted exceeds the maximum load of the range selected, the motor will stop automatically. Release the load & test in the next higher range by adding extra plate on the rod provided backside of the machine.

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3.1.4 Calculation: 1. Calculate Mean Breaking Load separately for Warp way & Weft way.

Breaking Load (Tensile Strength in Kg.Force) =

Reading (0 – 250 on dial) X 0.5.

3.2. CREASE RECOVERY ANGLE OF FABRIC

3.2.1 Test method: AATCC Test Method 66-2008

3.2.2 Test specimen:1. Cut 10 specimens 5 warpways & 5 weftways using template which

is of 2x1 cm.

3.2.3 Conditioning:Condition the specimens, flat and free from wrinkles, at 65 +/- 2% RH, 21+/-1 C for at least 24 hr. prior to testing.

3.2.4 Procedure:1. With the specimen holder in the left hand, use tweezers to place a

test specimen between the leaves of specimen holder.2. Take care that the specimen is not handled, even with the tweezers

near the area to be folded.3. Invert the press holder combination on a table top with the small

platform upward, and gently, apply a load of 500g. to the platform. 2. 4.After 5 min+/- 5 sec, remove the load, pick up the press holder

combination by the plastic press and insert the exposed end of the specimen holder in the mount on the face of the tester.

4. Exactly 5 min+/- 5 sec after the removal of the 500 g., make the final adjustment of dangling leg to the vertical guide line, and read

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the wrinkle recovery value to the nearest degree from the protractor scale by means of the vernier.

3.2.5 Calculation:Calculate average recovery in degrees for each group of three specimens, warp folded face-to-face, warp folded back-to-back, filling folded back-to-back.

3.3. TEAR STRENGTH TEST

3.3.1 Test method: ASTM D2261 – 13

3.3.2 Test specimen:1. Cut the specimens of the required size with the help of a template

from the different portions of the sample under test. 2. There should be 3 each samples cut in the warp direction and the

weft direction.3. The lengthwise direction should be parallel to the warp or weft

direction for which tear strength is required.

3.3.3 Procedure:1. Raise the pendulum to the starting position and secure it with the

help of the latch and set the pointer against the stop.2. Calibration of the pendulum is carried out by releasing the

pendulum and holding the pendulum on its return swing, we must know check if the pointer is at zero or not, if not we rotate the screws positioned under the tester accordingly and test for calibration again.

3. After it has been calibrated, fix the test specimen securely in the clamps so that it is well cantered and tighten the clamps.

4. Make a slit in the fabric using the blade.5. Release the pendulum by pressing the latch and let the specimen be

torn.6. After the tear is complete, hold the pendulum on its return swing

by hand without disturbing the position of the pointer. 7. Read the scale to the nearest whole scale division.

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3.3.4 Calculations:Tear Strength = Reading on scale x 6.4kg /100

3.4. DURABLE PRESS RATING TEST

3.4.1 Test method: AATCC Test Method 124-2011

3.4.2 Procedure:1. After the fabric has been cured, the fabric is given 5 washes using

1 spoon of detergent. After the 5 washes, it is then tumble dried at

temperature of about 60oC for 45 minutes.

2. After tumble drying, the specimens are then kept for conditioning

in a standard atmosphere having relative humidity of 65 +/- 2% at

21 +/- 1oC for 30-60 minutes.

3. The specimens are then compared with the scale provided and

according to the degree of creases formed, a rating is given.

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3.5. WATER ALCOHOL TEST

3.5.1 Test method:

3.5.2 Procedure:

1. Place the test sample on a horizontal, flat surface.

2. Use a dropper to gently place 3 small drops of a test liquid in 2

or 3 different areas of samples. Do not touch the sample by

dropper tip.

3. Allow the drops to stand undisturbed for 10 seconds.

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Water repellency Grade number % composition of the test liquid

0 Water

1 98/2 water/ isopropyl alcohol








3.5.3 Evaluation and Rating: If after 10 seconds, 2 of the 3 drops are

still visible as spherical or hemispherical and there is no wetting of the

fabric to be seen.

3.6. OIL TEST

3.6.1 Test method: AATCC- 118

3.6.2 Procedure:

1. Place the test samples flat on a smooth, horizontal surface.

2. Beginning with the lowest numbered test liquid, gently place small

drops with the dropper bottle pipette on the test sample in several

locations.

3. If no penetration or wetting of the substrate at the liquid-substrate

interface and no wicking around the drop occurs, place a drop of

the next higher numbered test liquid.

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Oil repellency rating number composition

1 Liquid paraffin

265/35 liquid paraffin/n-

hexadecane

3 n-hexadecane

4 n-tetradecane

5 n-dodecane

6 n-decane

7 n-octane

8 n-heptane

3.6.3 Evaluation: The oil repellency grade of a substrate is numerical

value of the highest numbered test liquid which will not wet the

substrate within a period of 30 seconds.

3.7. SPRAY TEST

3.7.1 Test method: AATCC-22

3.7.2 Procedure:

1. The test sample is fastened securely in the embroidery hoop so that

it prevents a smooth wrinkle free surface.

2. The hoop is then placed on the stand of the tester with the fabric

uppermost in such a position that the centre of the spray pattern

coincides with the centre of the loop.

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3. 250 ml of water is poured at 27° C are poured into the funnel of the

tester and allowed to spray onto the test sample, which take

approximately 30 seconds.

4. Then the hop is taken by one edge and the opposite angle edge is

tapped smartly once against a solid object. The hoop is then rotated

180° C and then tapped once more.

3.7.3 Evaluation: Immediately after tapping the loop, the wet or

spotted pattern on the fabric sample is compared with the AATCC

Standard Spray Test Rating Chart

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3.8. SOIL RELEASE: OILY STAIN RELEASE METHOD

3.8.1 Test method:

3.8.2 Procedure:

1. Place the unstained specimen on the horizontal surface.

2. Using the medicine dropper, place 5 drops of corn oil and

mineral oil in the approximate of the test specimen.

3. Place a 7.6 x 7.6 cm square of glassine paper over the stained area.

4. Place the weight on the glassine paper directly over the stained

area.

5. Allow weight to sit undisturbed for 60 +/- 5 secs. Then remove

the weight and discard the glassine sheet.

6. Do not allow stained test specimen to contact each other in a

manner which would transfer stains. Wash within 20 +/- 5 mins

after staining.

7. Compare the residual stains on the specimens with the stains in

the AATCC standard stain release replica and assign a grade as

follows:

GRADE Standard

Grade 5 Stain equivalent to Standard Stain 5





Grade 5 represents the best stain removal and Grade 1 the poorest stain

removal.

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3.9. WICKING TEST

3.9.1 Procedure:

1. Cut 4 strips 2 warp ways & 2 weft ways of 15 cm in length X 2 cm

in width of the required fabric.

2. Mount the strip on a steel plate with the help of clip.

3. Below the strip put petridish filled with 50ml water.

4. Adjust the strip in such a way that tip of strip just touch the water

in petridish.

5. Immediately start the stop-watch and allow the water to rise

through the strip for 3 minutes.

6. After 3 minutes give cut to the fabric till where water has reached.

Air dry the fabric and measures the height with ruler scale and

record the reading.

7. Any reading more than 5 cms is satisfactory and less than 5 cms is

poor.

3.10. ABSORBENCY

3.10.1 Procedure:

1. Place fabric sample which is to be tested on flat surface.

2. Put drop of water and start stop watch immediately.

3. Observe the time taken by water drop to penetrate inside the fabric.

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4. If any fabric takes more time for drop to get penetrated then wait

for 30 seconds and give rating as more than 30 seconds.

3.11. SURFACE EVAPORATION

3.11.1 Conditioning:

Condition the specimens, flat and free from wrinkles, at 65 +/- 2% RH,

21+/-1 C for at least 24 hr. prior to testing.

11.2 Procedure:

1. This test is intended to imitate the transport of moisture from

the skin through the textile substrate into the environment.

2. Place a 0.6 g drop of demineralized water on a balance pan.

3. Place a round fabric sample (r = 7 cm) on top of it to absorb

the water.

4. If the fabric is hydrophilic the water is distributed better and can

therefore evaporate more rapidly on the surface.

5. Record the weight every 10 min and finally record the residual

moisture content. The test is continued until a residual moisture

content of max. 10% is reached.

6. If this is not reached after 90 min the test is stopped.

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PROJECT

EFFECT LABELS FOR THE APPAREL SEGMENT

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1.MOISTURE MANAGEMNT

1.1 DEFINITION: This finish is defined as the ability of a garment to transport moisture away from the skin to the garment’s outer surface. The finish exhibits increased absorbency and may exhibit either or all the characteristics (mentioned below) when applied to textile fabrics.

a) Absorbencyb) Wickingc) Evaporation

1.2 PURPOSE: BREATH IS LIFE - EVEN FOR TEXTILES.

No matter what they are doing, consumers expect their clothes to feel comfortable at all times.Using moisture management finishes, fabrics dry quicker, wick moisture away from the skin and stay soft and breathable even when the wearer is involved in high-intensity sport activities.

Therefore, the resultant finish provides a) Increased Wearer Comfort, b) No sticking of the garments to the body.

1.3 THEORY : The market for moisture management fabrics is set to grow as apparel manufacturersshift their attention to the high-performance end of the sector and consumers place increasing importance on the performance of garments.

Moisture management is one of the key performance criteria in today’s apparel industry. It is defined as the ability of a garment to transport moisture away from the skin to the garment’s outer surface.This action prevents perspiration from remaining next to the skin. In hot conditions, trapped moisture may heat up and lead to fatigue or diminished performance. In cold conditions, trapped moisture will drop in temperature and cause chilling and hypothermia. Excess moisture may also cause the garment to become heavy, as well as cause damage to the skin from chafing.

1.3.1 Applications: Any garment which is worn next to the skin or worn during exercise benefits from moisture management properties.The range of applications for such fabrics continues to expand as new fabric technology is released on to the market. In addition to sportswear

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and active wear, there is also growing interest in moisture management fabrics from the flame retardant apparel market.

1.3.2 Factors affecting moisture management:a) Fineness of fibres: Moisture is transported in textiles through

capillary action or wicking. In textiles, the spaces between the fibres effectively form tubes, which act as capillaries, and transport the liquid away from the surface. As a rule, the narrower the spaces between the fibres in a fabric, the more effectively they will draw up moisture. For this reason, fabrics with many narrow capillaries, such as microfibres, are ideal for moisture transport.

b) Absorbency: Another factor which affects moisture management is absorbency. However, while greater absorbency increases the ability for moisture to be drawn into the fabric, the tendency of absorbent fibres to retain such moisture affects comfort levels, as the garment becomes saturated. It has been shown that fabrics which wick moisture rapidly while absorbing little water help to regulate body temperature, improve muscle performance and delay exhaustion.

Generally, the most effective moisture management fabrics are high-tech synthetic fabrics which are made from polyamide or polyestermicrofibres. These are lightweight, are capable of transporting moisture efficiently, and dry relatively quickly. Moisture management capabilities can also be enhanced by using certain finishing processes, by varying the fabric or fibre construction, or by using a blend of fibre types.

"Push-pull" fabrics – bi-component materials composed of a non-absorbent material on the inside and an absorbent material on the outside have proved to be an effective construction for moisture management fabrics. This is because the absorbent material on the outside draws the moisture away from the skin while the non-absorbent material keeps the skin dry.

1.3.3 Scope: As manufacturers of sports and active outdoor wear strive to improve the functionality of their collections, the future will see further developments in the field of moisture management fabrics. For example, the area of nano-fibres looks set to revolutionise the moisture management market. In addition, the next generation of "smart" textiles could see the development of fabrics which are able to

38

respond to changes in the environment by adjusting their pore size or thickness to allow moisture through.

1.4 EXPERIMENT:

1.4.1 Aim: To carry out moisture management system for the following fabrics:a) Polyester (PES) knit.b) Cotton (CO) knit.c) Polyester/Cotton (PES/CO) blend.d) Cotton (CO) poplin.And to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

1.4.2 Chemicals Used:

1.4.2.1 Hydroperm SRHA liq: A hydrophilising agent that gives polyester and polyester rich blends a soft, supple handle.

a) Salient Features: - Moisture management finish for PES and its blends Reduces the soil retentivity of those articles which are made out of

polyester fibres. Imparts exceptionally soft and supple dry handle Imparts a marked improvement of re-wettability on polyester fibres Notable improvement in the electrical conductivity of polyester

and its blended fibres. Improve the anti-pilling characteristics in certain specific synthetic

fibre qualities.

b) Properties:

Appearance Milky White LiquidChemical Character Polyester copolymer

Ionic Character Non-Ionic

39

1.4.2.2 Solusoft TOW Liq c:Concentrated hydrophilic silicone micro-emulsion for finishing cotton terrycloth goods and bath towels.

a) Salient features:• Highly concentrated micro-emulsion of a modified silicone

softener, suitable for the preparation of dilute working emulsions by simple dilution with water. The product can also be added directly to the finishing bath in concentrated form.

• Produces very hydrophilic finishes with good absorbency.• Specially suitable for terrycloth goods.• Imparts a very voluminous, fluffy soft handle.• No impairment of the degree of whiteness.• Mainly for padding but also suitable for exhaust processes.• Very good shear stability.

b) Properties:

Appearance clear, practically colorless microemulsion Chemical characteR special compounded polysiloxane Ionic character weakly cationic

1.4.3 Recipe:

CONCENTRATION(g/l)FABRIC Hydroperm SRHA liq Solusoft® TOW liq c

Polyester Knitwear 25 10PES/CO blend 25 10Cotton poplin 20 10

Cotton Knitwear 20 10

All the fabric samples were padded at 20◦ C with a pick up of 65% and dried at 150◦ C for 1 minute.The dried samples were then conditioned at a temperature of 20±2 ◦ C and relative humidity of around 65±2 %.After this, the performance of the finish produced was tested.

40

1.4.4 Oberavtions:1.4.4.1 Wicking height:

UN PES PES0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

WIKING HEIGHT

HEI

GHT

(CM

)

UN CO KN CO KN0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

WICKING HEIGHT

HEI

GHT

(CM

)

41

UN P/C BLEND P/C BLEND0

1

2

3

4

5

6

WICKING HEIGHTH

EIGH

T (C

M)

UN POPLIN POPLIN0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

WICKING HEIGHT

HEI

GHT

(CM

)

42

1.4.4.2 Surface evaporation:

After 10 min After 20 min After 30 min0%

2%

4%

6%

8%

10%

12%

14%

16%

18%

SURFACE EVAPORATION

RAT

ING

IN %


2%

4%

6%

8%

10%

12%

14%

16%

18%

SURFACE EVAPORATION

RAT

ING

IN %

43


18%

20%

22%

24%

SURFACE EVAPORATIONR

ATIN

G IN

%


5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

SURFACE EVAPORATION

RAT

ING

IN%

44

1.4.4.3 Drop Test:

UN PES KN PES KN0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

DROP TEST

Tim

e in

seco

nds

UN CO KN CO KN0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

DROP TEST

Tim

e in

seco

nds

45

UN CO POPLIN CO POPLIN0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

DROP TEST

Tim

e in

seco

nds


2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

DROP TEST

Tim

e in

seco

nds

1.4.5 Results and conclusions:After applying moisture management finish system on PES knit, CO knit, CO poplin and PES/CO blended fabrics, it can be concluded that:

1. The wicking property is improved for PES and CO knit fabrics with the wicking height for both warp as well as weft directions being more than 5 cms.While, for CO poplin and PES/CO blended fabrics, the wicking property is diminished with the wicking height being less than the untreated fabrics for both warp as well as weft directions.

2. All the types treated fabrics can be effectively used in moisture management applications as the percentage of moisture evaporated after 30 minutes increased significantly as compared to that of the untreated fabric samples.

46

3. The absorbency of the treated PES knit, PES/CO blended fabrics increased (resulting in better moisture management characteristics) as shown by a decrease in the absorption time but the absorbency of the treated CO poplin reduced with the absorption time increasing after finishing to 14 sec from 1 sec(untreated)However, CO knit fabric maintained its absorbency properties.

47

2. ANTIMICROBIAL FINISHES

CLARIANT’S EFFECT LABELS UNDER ANTIMICROBIAL FINISHES:

2.1 HYDRY FINISH.

2.2 MOSQUITO PROTECTION.

THEORY:

What are microbes?

Microbes are the tiniest creatures not seen by the naked eye. They include a variety of micro-organisms like Bacteria, Fungi, Algae and viruses.

o Bacteria are uni-cellular organisms which grow very rapidly under warmth and moisture. Further, sub divisions in the bacteria family are Gram positive(Staphylococcus aureus), Gram negative (E-Coli), spore bearing or non spore bearing type. Some specific types of bacteria are pathogenic and cause cross infection.

o Fungi, molds or mildew are complex organisms with slow growth rate. They stain the fabric and deteriorate the performance properties of the fabrics. Fungi are active at a pH level of 6.5.

o Algae are typical micro organisms which are either fungal or bacterial. Algae require continuous sources of water and sun

light to grow and develop darker stains on the fabrics.

o Dust mites are eight legged creatures and occupy the household textiles such as blankets bed linen, pillows, mattresses and carpets. The dust mites feed on human skin

48

cells and liberated waste products can cause allergic reactions and respiratory disorders.

Today biocides are important in textile finishing in the area of anti-microbial finishes. These include material protection (rotproofing and preservation), aesthetic (prevention of staining) and hygiene finishes (control of the development of odour and bacteria). Such finishes mustreach a range of performance criteria, and be practical and economic in terms of application as well as meeting modern environmental standards.

Types of antimicrobial:a) Leaching Type : The vast majority of antimicrobials work by

leaching or moving from the surface on which they are applied. This is the mechanism used by leaching antimicrobials to poison a microorganism .Besides affecting durability and useful life, leaching technologies have the potential to cause a variety of other problems when used in garments. These include their negative effects because, they can contact the skin and potentially effect the normal skin bacteria, cross the skin barrier, and/or have the potential to cause rashes and other skin irritations. A more serious problem with leaching technologies has to do with their allowing for the adaptation of microorganisms. The conventional leaching types of antimicrobials leave the textile and chemically enter or react with the microorganism acting as a poison.

b) Non leaching :The bound unconventional antimicrobial technology, an organofunctional silane, has a mode of action that relies on the technology remaining affixed to the substrate - killing microorganisms as they contact the surface to which it is applied. Effective levels of this technology do not leach or diminish over time. When applied, the technology actually polymerizes with the substrate making the surface antimicrobial. This type of antimicrobial technology is used in textiles that are likely to have human contact or where durability is of value. The unconventional bound antimicrobial stays affixed to the textile and, on a molecular scale, physically stabs (the membrane) and electrocutes (the biochemicals in the membrane) the microorganism on contact to kill it.

Requirements for biocides

It is fairly easy to list the desirable properties of an ‘ideal’ biocide:(1) Wide spectrum of effectiveness against both bacteria and

49

fungi;(2) Durable for the life of the product;(3) Non-toxic to humans at concentrations used – safe to handle

and use;(4) Colorless and odorless;(5) Reasonable cost, and effective at low concentrations;(6) Resistant to leaching, weathering and sunlight;(7) No adverse effect on handle or other physical properties of

the fabric;(8) Compatible with water-repellent and flame-retardant

finishes, dyes and other textilecchemicals;(9) Does not accelerate or catalyse other degenerative processes;(10) Applicable using standard textile machinery;(11) Withstands processing conditions and temperatures;(12) No environmental problems.

Chemistry:

a) Leaching chemistry: In all cases leaching antimicrobial technologies provide a killing field or "zone of inhibition". This zone exists in real-world uses if it is assumed that the right conditions exist for leaching of a lethal dose at the time that it is needed. The zone of inhibition is the area around the treated substrate into which the antimicrobial chemistry leaches or moves to, killing or inhibiting microorganisms.

Triclosan inhibits growth of microorganisms by using an electro chemical mode of action to penetrate and disrupt their cell walls. When the cell walls are penetrated, leakage of metabolites occurs and other cell functions are disabled, thereby preventing the organism from functioning or reproducing. The Triclosan when incorporated within a polymer migrates to the surface, where it is bound. Because, it is not water-soluble, it does not leach out, and it continuously inhibits the growth of bacteria in contact with the surface using barrier or blocking action.

One of the most durable type of antimicrobial products is based on a diphenyl ether (bis-phenyl) derivative known as either 2, 4, 4'-trichloro-2'hydroxy dipenyl ether or 5-chloro-2-(2, 4-dichloro

phenoxyl) phenol. Triclosan products have been used for more than 25 years in

hospitals and personal care products such as antimicrobial soap, toothpaste and deodorants.

50

b) Non Leaching Type Chemistry: A significantly different and much more unique antimicrobial technology used in the textile industry does not leach but instead remains permanently affixed to the surface it is applied to. Applied in a single stage of the wet finish process, the attachment of this technology to surfaces involves two means. First and most important is a very rapid process, which coats the substrate (fabric, fiber, etc.) with the cationic species (physisorption) one molecule deep. This is an ion exchange process by which the cation of the silane quaternary ammonium compound replaces protons from water or chemicals on the surface. The second mechanism is unique to materials such as silane quaternary ammonium compounds. In this case, the silanol allows for covalent bonding to receptive surfaces to occur (chemisorption). This bonding to the substrate is then made even more durable by the silanol functionality, which enables them to homopolymerize. After they have coated the surface in this manner, they become virtually irremovable, even on surfaces with which they cannot react covalently.

51

Mode Of Action: In order to live and multiply, micro-organisms need moisture, warmth and a food source. For practical purposes, keeping material permanently dry or very cold is impossible although it is worth noting that degradation of materials in deserts or Polar Regions is very slow. Normally micro-organisms are present all around us and, being airborne, are constantly landing on textiles and materials. Given an adequate food source they will then start to multiply, producing deleterious effects as described above. The food source may be the textile itself (for example, cellulose or polyurethanes) or another chemical present on the substrate (for example, spinning oils or soiling). The latter category includes dirt deposited from the atmosphere, perspiration, skin scales and soap residues. The level of soiling varies considerably depending on the environment; consider the difference between greasy deposits that accumulate near cooking areas and ordinary dust accumulation in a bedroom. The foodstuff may be in a form that is immediately useable by the micro-organism; an obvious example of this is the breakdown of sugars by yeast in the fermentation process. More usually, however, it is necessary for the micro-organism to break down more complicated molecules into a form that is accessible as food. To do this the micro-organism produces an enzyme that is a biocatalyst. A typical sequence in connection with the breakdown of cotton is shown in figure below.Degradation Process (cotton)

It follows, therefore, that in order to prevent degradation of textile materials, four possibilitiesare available:(1) kill organism;

Organism lands on the

fabricGerminates Enzymes

secreted

Attack on cellulose

molecules

Food for micro-

organisms

52

(2) block enzyme;(3) insert a barrier (for example, coating);(4) modify fibre (top surface or whole).

Application:

The general type of antimicrobial finish can be divided into three main groups:(a) Rotproofing is an anti-microbial finish applied to give material protection, either long-term or short-term, against physical deterioration.(b) Hygiene finishes are concerned with the control of infection and unwanted bacteria.(c) Aesthetic finishes are used to control odour development and to prevent staining.Some finishes fulfil two or even three of the above purposes – for example, cotton socks (prevent degradation, control dermatophytic fungi, inhibit odour development).

2.1 HYDRY FINISH:

2.1.1 DEFINITION: Hydry finish can be defined as the finish which combines characteristics such as hygiene and moisture management when applied to textile substrates.

As soon as a person begins to sweat, an unpleasant odor can develop, bringing with it that uncertain, insecure feeling that limits freedom of movement.

The Sanitized® hygiene function – integrates permanently into the clothing during manufacture - acts like a built-in deodorant and prevents the development of unpleasant odors. Since the Sanitized® hygiene function prevents the growth of bacteria, clothing remains fresh longer, can be laundered less frequently and washed at cooler temperatures. This means time, energy and water can be saved, which ultimately helps to protect the environment.

53

2.1.2 PURPOSE : The combined finish brings more comfort and well-being into the everyday life – at home, at work, during sports or on the go.

This finish is used basically for three purposes:a) Freshness: Daily activity: At home, at work, while shopping or

during sport, the Sanitized® hygiene function ensures a feeling of freshness all day long. This treatment is integrated into the textile and offers long-lasting, safe and fresh wearing comfort—all day, every day. Sanitized® maintains freshness letting the wearer feel completely comfortable.

b) Comfort: Bed linens, carpets, curtains or furniture fabrics, which

carry the Sanitized® Quality Seal, make the perception of well-being possible. The effectiveness of the integrated hygiene function is long-lasting and reliable. Sanitized® provides a reassuring feeling of lasting freshness in bedding, mattresses and other home textiles.

c) Protection: The integrated Sanitized® hygiene function reliably and permanently equips material against bacterial and fungal growth depending on individual needs. By preventing unsightly mildew spots not only the optical appearance is retained but also the material structure. Unappealing mold stains do not appear and you benefit from an extended useful life. Sanitized® is used in technical applications and textiles, household utensils, in the kitchen and bathroom.

54

2.1.3 EXPERIMENT:

2.1.3.1 Aim:To carry out clariant’s hydry finish system on the following fabrics:

a) Polyester (knit) b) Cotton (knit) c) Cotton (Poplin) And to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

2.1.3.2 Chemicals used:

2.1.3.2.1 Hydroperm SRHA liq.

2.1.3.2.2 Sanitized T 96-21 liq:

Unprotected fibre

Protected fibre

55

1) Mode of Action: Sanitized® T 96-21 has a reliable and durable bacteriostatic effect against a large number of gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. Its activity on the cell disrupts the metabolic process of unwanted micro-organisms and thus interrupts their ability to function, grow and reproduce.

2) Advantages: Lasting hygienic freshness and excellent wearing comfort. Outstanding effectiveness against a wide range of bacteria

including MRSA (Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus). Inhibits odors caused by microbes. Good tolerance with other chemicals, such as fluorocarbons, flame

retardants, and softening, linking, and binding agents, etc. Good wash fastness. Human skin tolerance according to the cytotoxicity test, ITV

Denkendorf.

3) Characteristics:

Composition -Liquid preparation with halogenated phenoxy compound.

pH -value 6.3 - 8.3 (20°C, 50 g/l) Ionic character- Non-ionogenic Appearance- Colorless to yellowish liquid. (Solidifies slowly at

temperatures below about 18°C. Ecology- Good degradability in biological sewage treatment plants:

> 95 % according to OECD 302 B(1992) Skin tolerance- Irritating to the skin and eyes in commercial

concentrations (wear gloves and eye protection).

4) Fields of Application: Apparel-Underwear, outer garments, work wear, sportswear,

outdoor garments, lining fabric,socks, hosiery Home textiles-Terrycloth, woolen and acrylic blankets Bedding textiles- casings for pillows and quilts, bed sheets, fitted

bed sheets, covers for pillows and duvets, molletons.

2.1.3.2.3 Solusoft TOW liq.2.1.3.2.4 Hydroperm RPU liq:

Newly developed thermoreactive polyurethane for permanent soft handle effects on all natural and regenerated cellulose fibres as well as polyamide.

56

In combination with crosslinking agents this special polyurethane also improves the crease recovery angle and wash and wear behaviour of cellulosic fibres.

1) Salient Features: produces a washfast, very full and extremely soft handle. the finished goods seem much fuller and appear heavier: higher

quality goods are achieved. mainly applied in combination with silicone softeners. achieves suede-like finishing effects in combination with

mechanical treatments such as buffing and emerizing. improves the elasticity and shape recovery of knit goods. Produces hydrophilic finishing effects. is readily combinable with the usual finishing agents. does not impair the degree of whiteness of optically brightened

goods and has only a slight effect on the shade of dyed goods. improves the crease recovery angle and wash and wear behaviour

in combination with crosslinking agents for cellulosic fibres. is formaldehyde-free. has a high turbidity point and can therefore also be applied in

countries with very high room temperatures.

2) Properties: Appearance- clear to weakly yellowish, slightly turbid, viscous

liquid

Chemical character- thermoreactive polyurethane resin

Ionic character- nonionic

pH- of the commercial product pH 5 +/- 1

3) Mode of action :Hydroperm RPU liquid imparts a full, soft elastic handle to the goods. It crosslinks under the usual curing conditions for resin finishing and produces permanent effects which are fast to washing and dry cleaning. Together with reactant crosslinking agents such as Arkofix® NDF liquid c Hydroperm RPU liquid is applied to improve the crease recovery angle and wash and wear behaviour of woven and knit goods of cotton, viscose and their blends with polyamide fibres. In

57

such applications the amount of reactant crosslinking agent can be reduced.

2.1.3.2.5 Sanitized T27-22 Silver liq:1) Mode Of Action: Sanitized® T 27-22 Silver has a safe

bacteriostatic effect against a large number of gram positive and gram negative bacteria, including MRSA (methicilline resistant Staphylococcus aureus) as well as some yeasts and micro-fungi.

2) Benefits:

Excellent storage stability. Ready-to-use product with easy dosage. No binder required. Can be combined with other textile effects such as binders,

softeners, wetting agents, fluorocarbons, etc. Can easily be applied in both padding and exhaust processes. Excellent exhaustion rate. Non-fading finish. Outstanding washing resistance and temperature stability. Dermatologically tested. Free from AOX. bluesign® approved. EPA registered. Accepted for OEKO-TEX Standard 100. classes I-IV. SIAA homologation. No nano-technology.

3) Characteristics Composition -Silver chloride and titanium dioxide pH -(20°C) 5.8 – 7.8 (20°C). Ionogenicity- Non-ionogenic, weakly anionic. Appearance- White to light grey dispersion. Skin tolerance- Skin and eye irritant at industrial concentrations

(wear gloves and eye protection).Substrate streated with Sanitized® T 27-22 Silver have been tested for dermatological safety.

4) Fields of Application: Apparel-Underwear, outer garments, work wear, sportswear,

outdoor garments, lining fabric,socks, hosiery Home textiles-Terrycloth, woolen and acrylic blankets

58

Bedding textiles- casings for pillows and quilts, bed sheets, fitted bed sheets, covers for pillows and duvets, molletons.

2.1.3.2.6 Ceralube HD liq:

Lubricant and sewability improver for all types of fibres1) Salient Features: Distinctly improves the tear strength of the fabric . Produces a supple and smooth handle .. Does not affect the degree of whiteness of brightened goods. Improves the abrasion resistance and compensates for the loss of

strength observed during resin finishing . Noticeably improves the effects on raised goods. Improves sewability of woven and knitted goods . Compatible with resins and in high acidic baths . Also imparts good yarn lubricating properties . Considerably facilitates penetration of the needles when needling

felts and nonwovens.

2) Properties: Appearance : Thin white to yellowish emulsion. Chemical character : Polyolefin dispersion. Ionic nature : Mildly cationic.

3) Mode Of Action: Improving sewability -Ceralube HD.IN liq increases the sliding

properties of yarns and thus significantly improves the sewability of knit goods and other textile constructions. The fibres or threads of the finished goods can readily evade the sewing needle and fibre/metal friction is considerably reduced. As a result the goods can be readily pierced by the sewing needle and no excessive heating occurs. On high speed machines problems with hole formation, stitch damage, needle and thread breakages are largely avoided.

Handle -Ceralube HD.IN liq imparts smoothness and a supple, very soft handle. These properties are highly favoured not only by the garment maker when working with the finished goods but also by the consumer. Ceralube HD.IN Liquid can also be combined

59

with softeners and silicone elastomers for individual handle variants.

Influence on white goods -The degree of whiteness of brightened textiles is virtually unaffected by treatment with Ceralube HD.IN liq.

Sublimation behaviour -Ceralube HD.IN liq exhibits no sublimation even at the high temperatures in shock curing.

4) Application:

For clothing and household textile. Resin finishing of textiles of cellulosic fibres. For raised and emerized goods. When needling felts and nonwovens.

2.1.3.3 Recipe:

CONCENTRATION(g/l) CONCENTRATION(o.w.f)

FABRIC

Hydroperm SRHA

liq

Solusoft TOW

liq c

Ceralube SVN

liq

Sanitized T 27-22 Silver liq

Polyester Knitwear 20 10 - 0.5%

Cotton Knitwear 20 10 15 0.5%

Cotton poplin

20 10 15 0.5%

Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of 65%. The padded fabrics were dried at 150C for 1minute after which they were conditioned in standard conditions of temperature (20±2 C) and relative humidity (65±2%).The fabrics were then tested for the performance of the finish produced on them.

2.1.3.3 Observations:

2.1.3.3.1 Wicking height:

60

PES KN UN PES KN0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

WICKING HEIGHT

HEI

GH

T (C

M)

CO KN UN CO KN0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

WICKING HEIGHT

HEI

GH

T (C

M)

POPLIN UN POPLIN0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

WICKING HEIGHT

HEI

GH

T (C

M)

61

2.1.3.3.2 Surface evaporation:


2%

4%

6%

8%

10%

12%

14%

16%

18%

SURFACE EVAPORATION

RATI

NG IN

%


2%

4%

6%

8%

10%

12%

14%

16%

18%

20%

SURFACE EVAPORATION

RATI

NG IN

%

62


5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

SURFACE EVAPORATION

RATI

NG IN

%

2.1.3.3.3 Drop test

63

UN PES KN PES KN0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

DROP TEST

Tim

e in

seco

nds

UN CO KN CO KN0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

DROP TEST

Tim

e in

sec

onds


0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

DROP TEST

Tim

e in

sec

onds

64

2.1.3.4 Results and conclusions: After applying Hydry finish system on PES knit, CO knit and CO poplin fabrics, it can be concluded that:

1. The wicking property is improved for PES fabric with the wicking height for both warp as well as weft directions being more than 5 cms.While, for CO poplin and CO knit fabrics, the wicking property is diminished with the wicking height being less than the untreated fabrics for both warp as well as weft directions.

2. All the types treated fabrics can be effectively used in moisture management applications as the percentage of moisture evaporated after 30 minutes increased significantly as compared to that of the untreated fabric samples.

3. The absorbency of the treated PES knit, fabrics increased (resulting in better moisture management characteristics) as shown by a decrease in the absorption time.However, CO knit and CO poplin fabrics maintained their absorbency properties.

2.2 MOSQUITO PROTECTION:

Protective textiles refer to those textile products which have a functionality of giving protection from something in some or the other sense. With regard to textiles, the protective textile field of the smart textiles has to fulfill this requirement. A Mosquito protective textile is one such textile product. Mosquitoes classify as one of the deadliest pests known to man. In the tropical countries mosquito menace is one of the greatest problems faced by the people in their every day lives. Mosquitoes cause more human suffering than any other organism. Worldwide, however, mosquitoes transmit disease to more than 700, 000, 000 people annually and will be responsible for thedeaths of 1 of every 17 people currently alive... Mosquitoes have complex methods of detecting hosts and different types of mosquitoes react to different stimuli. Most mosquitoes are active at dawn and dusk, but there are also mosquitoes that seek hosts during the day. You can avoid being bitten by making sure you aren't attracting mosquitoes, using attractants to lure mosquitoes elsewhere, using a repellent, and avoiding actions that diminish the effectiveness of the repellent.

65

2.2.1 DEFINITION: Mosquito Protective textiles is one of the revolutionary ways to advance the textile field by providing the much-needed features of driving away mosquitoes, especially in the tropical areas.

2.2.2 PURPOSE: It protects the human beings from the bite of mosquitoes and thereby promising safety from the mosquito-borne diseases, such as malaria, dengue fever (DF), Nile fever,dengue hemorrhagic fever (DHF), chicken gunia and filariasis, are serious public health problems in tropical regions, especially in Africa and Asia. These diseases are transmitted to human beings through mosquito bite only. Since there is no effective vaccine available for the control of these diseases, prevention of mosquito bites is one of the main strategies to control or minimize incidence of these diseases.

2.2.3 EXPERIMENT:

2.2.3.1 Aim: To carry out with Sanitized AM23-24, clariant’s mosquito protection finish system on cotton knitwears and to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

2.2.3.2 Chemicals used:1. Hostapal MRN.2. Acetic acid(60%).3. Solusoft MW liq c.4. Appretan N92111 liq:

Consist of Acrylic ester copolymers in aqueous dispersion.

Advantages: Resistant to washing and dry cleaning Self crosslinking Soft APEO free

Properties:

Appearance- Milky, low viscosity dispersion. Ionic character- Anionic.

Film properties : Appearance -transparent, soft, slightly sticky. Glass transition temperature- appr. - 8°C . Color- No or very low yellowing after curing at high temperature. Light and ageing stability- Very good stability to light ageing.

66

5. Sanitized AM23-24:Sanitized® AM 23-24 effects a significant reduction of landings andbites of insects, especially vectors (disease transmitting species), likethe mosquito Aedes Aegypti (yellow fever) and Anopheles Gambiae .( malaria).

Advantages: Washing resistant protection against vectors such as mosquitoes,

ticks, etc. Proven reduction of mosquito bites. Effectiveness against mosquitoes certified by the Swiss Tropical

and Public Health Institute, Switzerland and Biogents, Germany. Effectiveness against ticks and bedbugs confirmed by the

Zoological Institute, University of Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Textiles treated with Sanitized® AM 23-24 fulfill the requirements

of TL 8305-0331 (“Vector protection for textile areameasured material”) for the German and French armies.

Accepted by OEKO-TEX Standard 100, classes I-IV. Dermatologically tested. Formulation perfectly tailored to aim of application.

Characteristics: Composition- Formulation with permethrin. Ionic character Non-ionogenic. Appearance Yellow to brownish liquid.

Applications: Application possible on all common types of textiles except pure polypropylene.

Uniforms. Battle dresses. Tents. Sleeping bags. Work wear. Hunting and hiking apparel. Carpets. Curtains.

67

2.2.3.3 Recipe:

CONCENTRATION(g/l)FABRIC Hostapal

MRN liq c.

Acetic acid 60%

Solusoft MW liq c.

Appretan N92111 liq

Sanitized AM23-24.(calculated using Clariant sanitized calculator 1.0)

Cotton knitwear

0.5 1 10 70 28.1

Padding was done at 20-30C with a pick up of 70% and a bath pH of 4-5.5. The padded fabrics were then shock cured at 140C for 45 seconds after which they were conditioned in standard conditions of temperature (20±2 C) and relative humidity (65±2%).The fabrics were then tested for the performance of the finish produced on them.

2.2.3.4 Results: Cotton knit fabrics have been successfully treated with clariant’s mosquito protection finish system.

68

3. RESIN FINISHES

CLARIANT’S EFFECT LABELS UNDER RESIN FINISH ARE AS FOLLOWS:

1. EASY WEAR.2. EASY CARE & COMFORT.3. WASH & WEAR( MOIST CURE).4. WASH & WEAR( LT CURE). 5. PREMIUM ECO CARE.

THEORY:

Need for resin finishing on cellulosics:The inherent tendency of cellulosics towards creasing in wear and shrinkage on laundering constitute their principal disadvantages, which, although often improved by fabric or garment construction, are increasingly conquered by topical chemical treatment. The goal is ‘easy-care’ clothing that may be washed with minimal creasing and shrinkage.

The cellulose polymer chains are held together in bundles by hydrogen bonds and van der Waals forces, to form individual fibres, the chains running parallel to the fibre axis in a typically crystalline structure, although around

69

30% of cotton and 60% of viscose is amorphous. It is in the amorphous regions, however, that the chemistry of easy-care finishing takes place.

The shrinkage of cellulosic fabrics is a consequence of the relatively inelastic nature of the fibre and the dimensional changes that occur in the fibre during the transition from the dry to wet to dry state – effectively the ‘repacking’ of the structure, which has been disrupted whenaqueous. The creasing of cellulosic fabrics depends again on fibre structure – on a molecular level, a schematic representation of creasing and crease resistance shows that an unstable polymeric structure may not hold firm on deformation, so that the structure fails to recover andcreasing results when the load is removed. For the same reason, moistening of cellulosic fabrics, prior to ironing, allows the cellulose to regain its original configuration or for it to be persuaded to adopt another one (for example, a crease or pleat).

Resin finish Properties: A ‘wish list’ for the easy-care finisher might be as follows:

(1) high ‘durable press’ rating ,(2)high dry and wet crease recovery angles ;(3) minimal shrinkage, abrasion loss, tensile/tear strength loss;(4) little effect on shade and fastness of dyed fabrics or yellowing of whites;(5) good absorbency;(6) low or zero formaldehyde levels;(7) good pilling resistance;(8) desirable handle.

Effect of resin finishing on fabric properties:It is apparent that cross-linking impacts negatively on all mechanical properties. The also may be the possibility of permanent damage – caused by some loss of the degree of polymerization of the cellulose caused during the curing step. The ‘degree of cure’ of a resin finish attempts to quantify the percentage of resin on the fabric that has cross-linked, using an analytical technique. It may be readily observed that, as the degree of cure increases, so the mechanical properties degrade and any change of shade or yellowing will become more pronounced. In all cases, the magnitude of the effect depends on the specific chemicals and processing conditions used.The fibre embrittlement brought about by resination, may, under certain

70

circumstances, beneficial. It has been observed that the resination of cotton/polyester blends dramatically reduces ‘permanent’ pilling, since the weakened cellulosic component encourages pill detachment.

Resination of both white and coloured fabrics usually affects the shade to some degree. Typically the effect is a yellowing of the shade, the effect increasing with cure temperature. Formaldehyde: hazards, sources and detection:The chemistry of the resination of fabrics with DMDHEU-type reactant resins is inextricably linked with that of formaldehyde some of which appears on the treated fabric in either a free or bound form.Hazards: Its known hazards to health are its potential to irritate (especially the eyes and respiratory tract) and the ability to trigger skin allergy in susceptible individuals. Solutions of formaldehyde in water above 1% concentration are labelled with the risk phrase R40 ‘possible risk of irreversible effects’ [8]. At much lower concentrations (above 0.2%) such solutions carry the R43 label (‘may cause sensitisation by skin contact’).The current standards for maximum fabric concentrations of formaldehyde for Oeko-Tex Standard 100 are measured according to Japanese Law 112 (see below) in ppm and are as follows:(1) for furnishing fabrics – 300 ppm;(2) for adult clothing and other skin contact items – 75 ppm;(3) for children’s items – 20 ppm.

As reactant resin systems develop, it has become increasingly easy to meet the 75 ppm standard after easy-care – many modified DMDHEU resins (described as low or ultra-low formaldehyde products) currently on the market may be used. The 20 ppm standard is somewhat more difficult to achieve, even with state of the art reactants, especially if it is unacceptable to give the fabric a wash-off after processing to remove much of the unassociated formaldehyde.

Sources:The sources of formaldehyde in treated fabrics are various. It is not possible to prepare an aqueous solution of a DMDHEU-type resin without the presence of its equilibrium partner, formaldehyde. In addition, the cross-links formed between resin and cellulose may be back hydrolyzed under favorable conditions to release formaldehyde. It is therefore easy to see that the finishing conditions must be carefully optimized to minimize the potential for formaldehyde generation. The resin itself may be modified. Low formaldehyde crosslinking agents were

71

developed based on methylated or glycollated DMDHEU, which has improved stability with respect to its precursor.

Detection: Two methods dominate the UK finishing industry:

(1)The first test method relates to British Standard BS 6806 Part 2 (free formaldehyde) and Part 3 (released formaldehyde). (2) The second test method relates to Japanese Law 112 (1973), which measures the actual formaldehyde content of an aqueous extract after the extraction period.

Easy Care Technology: Easy-care finishing of cellulosics is achieved using an aqueous, known add-on technique, followed by a drying and then curing (crosslinking) step. The procedure may be applied to fabrics using a pad mangle and stenter or to made-up garments via a hydro-extract, press and cure method.In all cases the chemical bath is made up with resin (reactant), catalyst and a cocktail of softeners and stitch lubricants to enhance handle and performance. Compatible water- and stain-repellent finishes (such as fluorocarbon emulsions) may also be incorporated in the chemical mix, to further enhance the final fabric performance.

Most of the catalysts used in resin finishing are either acids or latent acids (the latter developing acidity only on heating). For DMDHEU reactants, the most popular catalyst is magnesium chloride – being neutral in aqueous solution at all temperatures and thus offering maximumbath stability. Since very high fabric temperatures must be avoided to prevent fibre degradation, sharper more active catalysts have evolved known as metal salt complex/co-catalysts – for example, magnesium chloride/citric acid, magnesium chloride/ aluminium hydroxychloride andmagnesium chloride/sodium fluoroborate, these latter often referred to as ‘flash catalysts’.

The mechanism of catalysis have indicated that a complex intermediate isformed between the metal catalyst ion and the reactant alkoxy group. Catalyst choice must reflect closely the desired finishing temperatures, fabric speeds and acceptable residual formaldehyde levels, taking into account the deterioration in mechanical properties and shadethat occur as the degree of cure increases. Prior to pad–stenter–cure (otherwise referred to as ‘single pass’), the amount of liquor on thefabric should be kept as low as possible to minimise the energy required for processing. In somecases, resin migration to the surface of the fabric

72

will occur if the water is driven off too swiftly in the earlier stages of drying, leading to a harsh handle and generally poor performance.

Conclusion: The development challenges are clear – to replace the conventional DMDHEU compounds with formaldehyde-free alternatives at acceptable cost and, if possible, to develop more reactive, controllable systems that are capable of giving robust, easy-care properties to challenging, relatively unstable substrates, such as weft knits. The ultimate judge of any topical treatment (no less true for easy-care than other areas of textile finishing) must be the unbiased consumer who demands ‘value for money’ rather than responding to the aestheticappeal of some neat chemistry!

3.1 EASY WEAR:

3.1.1 Aim: To carry out clariant’s easy wear finish system on the following fabrics:

a) Shirting.b) Bottom width.c) Polyester/Cotton blend.And to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

3.1.2 Chemicals:1. Arkofix NES:

It is a very Low formaldehyde crosslinking agent for the crease resistant, dimensionally stable finishing of textiles of cellulosic fibres and their blends with synthetic fibres.

Salient Features: Imparts excellent crease and shrink-resistant properties to textiles of cotton and viscose and their blends. Meets the requirements of consumer labels such as Öko-Tex Standard 100 for textiles worn next to the skin (<75 ppm

formaldehyde on the goods). This applies particularly to the assessment methods as described in Japan Law 112-1973.

On 100% cotton the finish shows no chlorine retention.

2. MgCl2.6H2O.3. Ceralube HD.4. Solusoft TOW liq c.5. Hydroperm RPU.

73

6. Acetic acid (60%).3.1.3 Recipe:

CONCENTRATION(g/l)

FABRIC Arkofix NES liq c.

MgCl2.6H2O

Ceralube HD

Solusoft TOW

Hydroperm RPU liq

Acetic acid(60%)

Shirting 40 10 30 20 10 0.7

Polyester/cotton blend

40 10 30 20 10 0.7

Bottom width 60 15 40 30 30 1

Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of 70%. The padded fabrics were shock cured at 170C for 30 seconds after which they were conditioned in standard conditions of temperature (20±2 C) and relative humidity (65±2%).The fabrics were then tested for the performance of the finish produced on them.

3.1.4 Observations:

3.1.4.1 Tensile strength:

3.1.4 Observations:

3.1.4.1 Tensile strength:

74

UN BW BW0

10

20

30

40

50

60

TENSILE STRENGTH

Rat

ing

in K

g Fo

rce


5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

TENSILE STRENGTH

Rat

ing

in K

g Fo

rce

UN SHIRTING SHIRTING0

5

10

15

20

25

TENSILE STRENGTH

Ratin

g in

Kg

Forc

e

75

3.1.4.2 Crease Recovery:

UN BW BW0

20

40

60

80

100

120

CREASE RECOVERY

Angl

e in

°C


20

40

60

80

100

120

140

CREASE RECOVERY

Angl

e in

°C

76


10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

CREASE RECOVERYAn

gle

in °C

3.1.4.3 Durable press rating:

77

UN BW TR BW AW BW0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

DURABLE PRESS RATING

Ratin

g

UN P/C TR P/C AW P/C0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5


Ratin

g

UN SHR TR SHR AW SHR0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5


Ratin

g

78

3.1.4.4 Tear strength:


0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

1.6

TEAR STRENGTH

Rat

ing

in K

g Fo

rce

79

UN BW BW0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

1.6

1.8

2

TEAR STRENGTH

Rat

ing

in K

g Fo

rce


0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

TEAR STRENGTH

Ratin

g in

Kg

Forc

e

3.1.5 Results and conclusions: After applying Easy wear finish system on Shirting (yarn dyed), PES/CO blend and Bottom width fabrics, it can be concluded that:

1. Tensile strength for all the treated fabrics reduced in both warp as well as weft direction with the bottom width fabric showing the most reduction while shirting fabric showing the least reduction.

2. The resistance of all fabrics towards creases increased significantly as shown by the increase in crease recovery angles.

3. After 5 washes, all the treated fabrics showed more wrinkles resulting in a lower DP rating as compared to the untreated fabrics.

4. The tear strength for all the fabrics increased due to the usage of special polyurethane softener in the recipe which reduces the effectof cross linking agents on mechanical properties of fabrics.

80

3.2 EASY CARE & COMFORT:

3.2.1 Aim: To carry out easy care and comfort finish system on the following fabrics:

a) Shirtingb) Bottom widthc) Polyester/Cotton blend.And to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

3.2.2 Chemicals Used:1. Arkofix ELF liq c:

Ultra low formaldehyde containing cross linking agent for the easy care finishing of textiles of cellulosic fibres & their blends with synthetic fibres . Highly recommended for ETSI (Enhanced Textile Strength Improvement) system from Clariant. Salient Features:

Suitable for imparting crease resistant, dimensionally stable finishing of textiles of cellulosic fibres and their blends with synthetic fibres.

Free formaldehyde less than 75 ppm on the fabric. Meets the requirements of consumer labels like Eco-Tex Std. 100

for textiles worn next to skin. Very low impact on whiteness so recommended for whites Minimal strength loss as compared to conventional resins so ideal

for delicate fabrics like poplin & knit articles . On 100% cotton effects are not stable to chlorine.

Properties:Appearance : Colourless to pale yellow clear liquid

Chemical character : Modified N-methylol di-hydroxy ethylene Urea. 2. MgCl2.6H2O.

3. Ceralube HD.4. Solusoft TOW liq c.5. Hydroperm RPU.6. Acetic acid (60%).7. Hostapal MRN liq.8. Hydroperm HV.

81

3.2.3 Recipe:

CONCENTRATION(g/l)FABRIC Arko

fix ELF lit c.

MgCl2.6H2O

Ceralube HD liq c.

Solusoft TOW liq c.

Hydroperm RPU liq.

Acetic acid(60%)

Hostapal MRN liq

Hydroperm HV

Shirting 40 10 10 15 25 0.7 0.2 10Polyester/Cotton blend

40 10 10 15 25 0.7 0.2 10

Bottom Width

60 15 15 25 30 1 0.5 15

Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of 70%. The padded fabrics were shock cured at 170C for 30 seconds after which they were conditioned in standard conditions of temperature (20±2 C) and relative humidity (65±2%).The fabrics were then tested for the performance of the finish produced on them.

3.2.4 Observations:3.2.4.1 Tensile strength:

UN BW BW0

10

20

30

40

50

60

TENSILE STRENGTH

Rat

ing

in K

g Fo

rce

82


5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

TENSILE STRENGTH

Rat

ing

in K

g Fo

rce


5

10

15

20

25

TENSILE STRENGTH

Rat

ing

in K

g Fo

rce

3.2.4.2 Crease recovery


10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

CREASE RECOVERY

Angl

e in

ºC

83


10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

CREASE RECOVERY

Angl

e in

ºC

UN BW BW0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

CREASE RECOVERY

Angl

e in

ºC

84

3.2.4.3 Durable press rating:

UN SHR TR SHR AW SHR0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

DURABLE PRESS RATINGRa

ting

UN BW TR BW AW BW0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5


Ratin

g

85

UN P/C TR P/C AW P/C3.2

3.3

3.4

3.5

3.6

3.7

3.8

3.9

4

4.1


Rat

ing

3.2.4.4 Tear strength:


0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

1.6

1.8

TEAR STRENGTH

Rat

ing

in K

g Fo

rce

86

UN BW BW0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

TEAR STRENGTHRa

ting

in K

g Fo

rce


0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

1.6

1.8

TEAR STRENGTH

Ratin

g in

Kg

Forc

e

3.2.5 Results and conclusions: After applying Easy care & comfort finish system on Shirting (yarn dyed), PES/CO blend and Bottom width fabrics, it can be concluded that:

1. Tensile strength for all the treated fabrics reduced in both warp as well as weft direction with the bottom width fabric showing the most reduction while shirting fabric showing the least reduction.

2. The resistance of all fabrics towards creases increased significantly as shown by the increase in crease recovery angles.

3. After 5 washes, all the treated fabrics showed more wrinkles resulting in a lower DP rating as compared to the untreated fabrics.

4. The tear strength for all the fabrics increased due to the usage of ETSI recipe.

87

3.3WASH & WEAR( Moist Cure):

3.3.1 Aim: To carry out with Arkofix ELF, clariant’s wash & wear finish system on shirting fabric and to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

3.3.2 Chemicals Used: 1.Arkofix ELF liq c: Ultra low formaldehyde containing cross linking agent for the easy care finishing of textiles of cellulosic fibres & their blends with synthetic fibres. Highly recommended for ETSI (Enhanced Textile Strength Improvement) system from Clariant. Salient Features:

Suitable for imparting crease resistant, dimensionally stable finishing of textiles of cellulosic fibres and their blends with synthetic fibres.

Free formaldehyde less than 75 ppm on the fabric. Meets the requirements of consumer labels like Eco-Tex Std. 100

for textiles worn next to skin. Very low impact on whiteness so recommended for whites. Minimal strength loss as compared to conventional resins so ideal

for delicate fabrics like poplin & knit articles. On 100% cotton effects are not stable to chlorine.

Properties: Appearance : Colourless to pale yellow clear liquid. Chemical character : Modified N-methylol di-hydroxy ethylene urea.

2.Catalyst MC1 liq. 3.Ceralube HD: Lubricant and sewability improver for all types of fibre Salient Features:

Distinctly improves the tear strength of the fabric Produces a supple and smooth handle Does not affect the degree of whiteness of brightened goods Improves the abrasion resistance and compensates for the loss of

strength observed during resin finishing

88

Noticeably improves the effects on raised goods Improves sewability of woven and knitted goods Compatible with resins and in high acidic baths Also imparts good yarn lubricating properties Considerably facilitates penetration of the needles when needling

felts and nonwovens.

Properties: Appearance : Thin white to yellowish emulsion. Chemical character : Polyolefin dispersion. Ionic nature : Mildly cationic.

4.Solusoft MW liq c:. Highly effective non-yellowing, economical micro amino silicone for permanent finish effects on all types of fibres

Salient Features : Confers a pleasant, soft, slightly bulky handle on the goods. Also suitable for finishing articles made of open-end (OE) yarns. Improves sewability. As an additive in synthetic resin finishes improves the

technological properties of the goods (creasing behaviour, tensile strength).

Specially suitable for white goods since it does not impair the effect of optical brighteners.

Applied by the padding method. Improves the stretch and recovery capacity of knit goods. Produces finish effects that are fast to washing and dry cleaning.

Properties:

Appearance : Pale yellowish liquid. Chemical Character : Modified poly-siloxane. Ionic Character : Nonionic.

5. Acetic acid (60%).6. Hostapal MRN liq.7. Hydroperm HV.

89

3.3.3 RECIPE:

1. Resin Finish: CONCENTRATION(g/l)

FABRIC Hostapal MRN liq c.

Arkofix ELF liq c.

Hydroperm HV liq.

Ceralube HD liq.

Catalyst MC 1 liq.

Shirting 0.3 130 1 8 16

Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of approximately 70%. The padded fabrics were then dried at 100C to a residual humidity of 6-8% (Mahlo) with reduced ventilation.

2. Batching: the dried fabrics were batched at 25-30C for 24 hours.3. Washing/neutralizing and drying: After batching the fabrics for

24 hours, they were washed with a solution containing 1g/l soda ash and 1g/l Imerol PCJ.

4. Top Finish:

CONCENTATION(g/l)FABRIC Hostapal

MRN liq c.Acetic acid 60%

Solusoft MW liq conc

Ceralube HD

Shirting 0.3 0.3 15 20

The washed fabrics were padded with the above recipe , dried and then cured at 140C .

90

3.3.4 Observations:


5

10

15

20

25

TENSILE STRENGTHRa

ting

in K

g Fo

rce


0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

TEAR STRENGTH

Rat

ing

in K

g Fo

rce

91


10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

CREASE RECOVERY

Angl

e in

°C

UN SHR TR SHR AW SHR3.2

3.3

3.4

3.5

3.6

3.7

3.8

3.9

4

4.1


Ratin

g

3.3.5 Results and conclusions: After applying Wash & Wear(Moist cure0 finish system on Shirting (yarn dyed), PES/CO blend and Bottom width fabrics, it can be concluded that:

1. The tensile strength of the shiting fabric reduced for both warp as well as weft directions.

2. The resistance of the shiting fabric towards creases increased as shown by the increase in crease recovery angles.

3. After 5 washes, the treated fabrics showed more wrinkles resulting in a lower DP rating as compared to the untreated fabrics.

4. However, unlike tensile strength, the tear strength of the treated fabric increased due to more slippage occuring in the fabric after treatment.

92

3.4 WASH & WEAR( LT CURE):

3.4.1 Aim: To carry out with Arkofix ELF, clariant’s wash & wear finish system on shirting fabric and to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

3.4.2 Chemicals Used: 1. Arkofix ELF liq c. 2. Catalyst NKC liq. 3.Ceralube HD. 4. Acetic acid (60%). 5. Hostapal MRN liq conc. 6. Solusoft MW liq conc.

3.4.3 Recipe:

1. Resin Finish:CONCENTRATION(g/l)

FABRIC

Hostapal MRN liq conc.

Arkofix ELF liq conc.

Solusoft MW liq conc.

Ceralube HD

Catalyst NKC

Acetic acid(60%)

Shirting 0.3 190 30 40 48 0.5

Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of approximately 70%. The padded fabrics were then dried at 100C to a residual humidity of 6% (Mahlo or Pleva) with reduced ventilation. The fabrics were then cured at 140C for 2 minutes.

3.4.4 Observations:

93

3.4.4.1 Tensile Stength:


5

10

15

20

25

TENSILE STRENGTH

Rat

ing

in K

g F

orce

3.4.4.2 Tear Strength:


0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

1.6

1.8

TEAR STRENGTH

Ra

tin

g in

Kg

For

ce

94

3.4.4.3 Crease Recovery Angle:


10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

CREASE RECOVERYR

atin

g in

Kg

Forc

e

3.4.4.4 Durable Press Rating:


3.3

3.4

3.5

3.6

3.7

3.8

3.9

4

4.1


Rat

ing

3.4.4.5 Results and conclusions: After applying Wash & Wear(LT cure) finish system on Shirting (yarn dyed), PES/CO blend and Bottom width fabrics, it can be concluded that:

1. The tensile strength of the shiting fabric reduced for both warp as well as weft directions however the reduction was less as compared to that in wash and wear(moist cure) finish system.

2. The resistance of the shiting fabric towards creasing increased as shown by the increase in crease recovery angles but the

95

increase was less than that observed in wash & wear(moist cure) finish system.

3. After 5 washes, the treated fabrics showed more wrinkles resulting in a lower DP rating as compared to the untreated fabrics.

4. However, unlike tensile strength, the tear strength of the treated fabric increased due to more slippage occuring in the fabric after treatment. Also, the increase in tear strength is more than that observed in wash& wear finish system.

3.5 PREMIUM ECO CARE (Taking care about ecology and high performance)

3.5.1 Aim: To carry out clariant’s premium eco care finish system on shirting fabric and to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

3.5.2 Chemicals: 1. Hostapal MRN.2. Arkofix ELF.3. Solusoft MW liq conc.4. Ceralube HD.5. Catalyst NKC.6. Arkofix NZF:

Crosslinking agent for the formaldehyde-free finishing of textiles of cellulosic fibres and their blends with synthetic fibres.

Salient Features: imparts very good dimensional stability with good wet and dry crease recovery properties to textiles of cotton and viscose and

their blends. meets the requirements of formaldehyde freedom as required for

children's wear (under 2 years) in:Japan Law 112-1973Finnish Law SFS 4996/1986Eco-Tex Standard 100.

provides excellent formaldehyde-free wash and wear effects witha soft handle.

has no chlorine retention properties. It is possible that an unpleasant odour may develop on the finished

goods. This can be avoided by acid rinsing with acetic acid and good ventilation.

96

suitable for white and dyed goods. If optical brighteners such as Leucophor® BLR on cotton and/or Hostalux* ETB/N on PES/Co are applied, the degree of whiteness obtained is comparable to that with a low formaldehde crosslinking agent.

The presence of urea in the finishing liquor impairs the degree of whiteness.

The influence on the lightfastness and shade of reactive dyeings may be 1-1 1/2 rating points poorer than with low-formaldehyde crosslinking agent.

Properties: Appearance -clear, low viscosity liquid. Chemical character- modified dihydroxy ethylene urea. Reaction- slightly acid.

3.5.3 Recipe:1. LT Cure Finish on cotton:

FABRIC CONCENTRATION(g/l)Hostapal MRN liq conc.

Arkofix ELF liq conc.

Solusoft MW liq conc.

Ceralube HD liq

Catalyst NKC liq

SHIRTING 0.3 150 30 45 38

Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of approximately 70% and a pH<4.5. The padded fabrics were then dried at 100C to a residual humidity of 6% (Mahlo or pleva) with reduced ventilation.The dried fabrics were then cured at 130 for 3 minutes.

2. SMF FINISH( Strength management finish) on colored goods:

FABRIC CONCENTRATION(g/l)Hostapal MRN liq conc.

Arkofix ELF liq

Arkofix NZF new

Solusoft MW liq

Ceralube HD liq

Catalyst NKC liq

97

conc. liq. conc.SHIRTING

0.3 150 30 45 38

Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of approximately 70% and a pH<4.5. The padded fabrics were then dried at 100C to a residual humidity of 6% (Mahlo or pleva) with reduced ventilation.The dried fabrics were then cured at 135C for 3 minutes.

3.5.4 Observations:1. LT CURE FINISH ON COTTON:


5

10

15

20

25

TENSILE STRENGTH

Rat

ig in

Kg

Forc

e

98


20

40

60

80

100

120

140

CREASE RECOVERY

Angl

e


3.3

3.4

3.5

3.6

3.7

3.8

3.9

4

4.1


Rat

ing


0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

TEAR STRENGTH

Rat

ing

in K

g F

orce

99

2. SMF FINISH(strength management finish) on colored goods:


5

10

15

20

25

TENSILE STRENGTHR

atin

g in

Kg

Forc

e


20

40

60

80

100

120

CREASE RECOVERY

Angl

e

100


0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

1.6

TEAR STRENGTH

Rat

ing

in K

g F

orce


3.3

3.4

3.5

3.6

3.7

3.8

3.9

4

4.1


Rat

ing

3.6 Results and conclusions: : a) After applying Premium eco care(LT cure & SMF) finish system

on Shirting (yarn dyed) fabric it can be concluded that:b) The tensile strength of the shiting fabric reduced for both warp as

well as weft directions. The resistance of the shiting fabric towards creasing increased as shown by the increase in crease recovery angles.

c) After 5 washes, the treated fabrics showed more wrinkles resulting in a lower DP rating as compared to the untreated fabrics.

d) However, unlike tensile strength, the tear strength of the treated fabric increased due to more slippage occuring in the fabric after treatment. Also, the increase in tear strength is more in SMF finish than that observed in LT cure finish system.

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4 SOIL RELEASE FINISHES

CLARIANT’S EFFECT LABELS UNDER SOIL RELEASE FINISHES:

4.1 SOIL & STAIN RELEASE.4.2 EASY CLEAN & COMFORT.

DEFINITION: Soil release finishes refer to the finishes applied which facilitate the removal of soiling matter during laundering of the item.

PURPOSE: The purpose of soil-release finishing for textiles is to facilitate the removal of soil deposits on textile materials which are usually of complex composition, containing both oily andparticulate matter. Particulate soil may be clay, soot or metal oxides. Street dirt, for instance,contains several components such as peat moss, cement, silica, raolin clay, mineral oil, carbon black and iron oxide. Oily soils are typically fatty materials secreted by the body. Most common within this category is shirt collar dirt consisting of skin cells, sebum and eccrine sweat.Various other substances that contribute to the soiling of textiles include stains from oily liquidsand food residues.

THEORY:Mechanism of Soiling:

The mechanism of soiling is influenced by various factors associated with the transport and adsorption of soil onto a textile. Electrostatic attractive forces are primarily responsible for the deposition of air-borne particulate soil onto curtains or upholstery. In contrast, shoe dirt groundinto a carpet surface, or soiling of a shirt collar or sofa by oily soil, arises from direct contact, exacerbated by rubbing action. Finally, cross transfer of soil or redeposition on the same fabric may take place during laundering of textile items. This last mechanism of soil transfer is referred to as ‘wet soiling’.Irrespective of the method of soil transfer onto a textile, the main cause of soiling is considered to be due to subsequent adhesion of the soil onto the fibre surface . This is effected mostly by van der Waals forces, which operate only over very short distances. The strength of this interactive force will depend on the nature of the soil and of the substrate, and

102

the area of contact between the two.

Detergency:

The success of any soil-release treatment is intimately associated with the removal of soil by detergent action. Detergency refers to the physico-chemical action of cleaning a solid surface by an aqueous solution of surfactant(s). It is accomplished by a combination of effects involving the alteration of interfacial tensions and emulsification of the removed soil. Oily and particulate soils, being quite different in their physical and chemical characteristics, are considered to be removed by entirely different mechanisms, as outlined below.

Removal of particulate soil

The removal of particulate soil is initiated by intimate contact between the detergent liquid (L) and fibre (F) and soil (S). The work required to cause removal of the soil from the substrate may be defined as:

WFS = LF + LS - SF (8.3)

where ,

γLF = interfacial tension between liquid and fibre.γLS = interfacial tension between liquid and soil.γSF = interfacial tension between soil and fibre.The adsorption of surfactant at the liquid–fibre (LF) and liquid–soil (LS) interfaces, in decreasing γLF and γLS, will consequently decrease the work (WFS) required to cause removal of the soil from the fibre.Hence, effective solvation of the fibre and soil particle surfaces by the surfactant solution facilitates separation of the soil from the fibre. The dislodged soil particle is then able to move freely into the bulk phase of the wash liquor, aided by mechanical action.

Removal of oily soil

The removal of oily (liquid) soils is considered to occur via the roll-up mechanism . The force responsible for the roll-up of oil is defined as the resultant, R, of the interfacial tensions

R = SF- LF + LS cos

Preferential wetting of the fibre facilitates this mechanism by the

103

detergent liquid. As the dynamic contact angle, θ, approaches 180°, cosθ approaches –1, and the oily soil is thus rolled-up into a spherical ball, which is readily detached from the substrate , aided by mechanical agitation.

Soil re-deposition

During laundering, soil dislodged from a fabric may be redeposited on the same fabric or a different fabric via the detergent solution. The extent to which this occurs is determined by complex interactions between all the variables involved – for example, washing conditions, detergent solution, soil type, fibre type and fabric geometry [68]. The prevention of soil redeposition, or effective suspension of soil in the detergent solution, is an essential part of the overall detergency process. One of the most commonly used anti-redeposition agents in commercial detergent formulations is sodium carboxymethylcellulose (SCMC). Prevention ofsoil redeposition is considered to involve the formation of electrical double layers of the negatively charged fibres coated with SCMC and detergent-coated soil particles, which results in electrostatic repulsion between the two. This reagent is reasonably effective for the laundering of cotton fabrics, whereas cellulose ethers are better utilised for synthetic textiles.

Factors affecting soiling and soil release:

a) Nature of the soil: One of the most frequently encountered soils requiring removal during laundering is sebum (shirt collar soil). This soil type contains mostly fatty acids, triglycerides and fatty alcohols, which are predominantly removed at wash temperatures below 50 °C. However, if allowed to remain on the fabric for some time, the fatty acid component has a tendency to oxidise (or age), forming substances of higher viscosity that require higher temperatures for effective removal. Oxidised sebum remaining on the fabric during laundering can then exacerbate soiling byentrapping particulate soil from wash liquors or during fabric use.

b) Nature of the substrate: It is well known that soil removal is far more difficult from hydrophobic synthetic fibres such as polyester than from hydrophilic natural fibres. In general, fabrics with low moisture regain, or treatments that decrease fibre regain, increase the tendency for soilretention . Conversely, the ease of soil removal improves as the hydrophilic nature of a fabric (or moisture regain) is increased.

The extent of soiling is also heavily dependent on the area of contact

104

between the soil and the substrate. Hence, fibre geometry and yarn and fabric parameters play a major role in the soil-release behaviour of any given fabric. Electron microscopy techniques have shown oilysoil to be located within the interfibre capillaries of yarns, on the surface of the yarn and embedded in crevices formed between adjacent fibres within the yarn. Additionally, with cotton fibres soil may be located within the lumen, crenulations and secondary wall of the fibres.

c) Effect of fabric finishing:

Berch and coworkers examined the extent of wet soiling with both oily (carbon black/oleic acid) and hydrophilic (iron oxide) soils, on finished cotton. They found a linear correlation between the extent of soiling by the oily soil and the hydrophobicity of the fabric. (The extent of soiling was determined by the K/S value, and the cosine of the contact angle of oleic acid on a film of finish in water was used as a measure of the hydrophobic properties of the finish.) The extent of soiling by the hydrophilic soil, iron oxide, on the other hand, was observed to be relatively constant regardless of the hydrophobicity of the finish. These researchers also showed that wet soiling values decrease with increasing hardness of the finish .

Durable press cotton fabrics generally show a greater propensity towards soiling than untreated cotton. Fiebig and Rezk [80] have investigated the extent of soiling with increasing amounts of crosslinking N-methylol finishes such as dimethylolethyleneurea (DMEU).Hebeish and coworkers found that the finishing treatments significantly decreased the ability of cotton fabric to resist both aqueousand oily soiling, the diminished soil-release behaviour being morepronounced in the latter case.Soil-release finishing treatments(Chemistry):

Soil-release treatments are generally polymeric finishes topically applied to fibres, yarns or fabrics for the purpose of increasing their hydrophilic character. Soil deposition by electrostatic attraction is thereby minimised and soil release during laundering of the item is improved. Soil-release finishes are generally amphiphilic polymers, containing both hydrophilic and lipophilic groups. The hydrophilic/lipophilic balance is critical in terms of achieving appropriate soil-release activity. Other factors – such as water solubility of the finish, spreading on the fibre surface and

105

hardness versus pliability of the finish – also determine overall performance. These finishes may be conveniently classified [68] according to the hydrophilic component within the polymer, generally composed of carboxyl, hydroxyl or oxyethylene groups. Alkyl oraryl groups linked via ester or ether bonds along the polymer backbone constitute the lipophilic component. Additionally, reactive groups may also be incorporated in order to render the finish more permanent, by forming crosslinks, or pendent lipophilic groups may serve to anchor thesoil-release polymer to the surface of thermoplastic fibres when softened by heat.

a) Carboxyl group polymersSoil-release polymers in this class are commercially applied in conjunction with durable press treatments on cotton and cotton/polyester blend fabrics. Typically, they are copolymers of acrylic (or methacrylic) acid and ethyl acrylate as shown in figure below.

The soil-release properties of these acrylic polymers are related to their anionic character in aqueous alkaline detergent. Formation of the carboxylate anion under alkaline conditions imparts a negativesurface charge thus decreasing the extent of wet soiling by negatively charged soil particles in the detergent solution. Additionally, their tendency to swell in alkaline media has been postulated as a mechanism for soil release.

b) Oxyethylene or hydroxyl group polymers

Non-ionic oxyethylene adducts of polyesters, polyamides, polyurethanes, polyepoxides and polyacetals are important soil-release finishes for synthetic fabrics, particularly polyester.

They may be applied in a similar way as disperse dyes to polyester, although requiring lower temperature conditions. The effect of varying the length of the polyoxyethylene (hydrophilic) component within the polymer was investigated by Kissa and Dettre . Initially, soil retention was found to drop substantially as the hydrophile/lipophile balance (HLB) value increased with increasing hydrophilic character. Eventually, however, this improvement in soil release levels offas a result of decreased sorption by the fibre, with higher polyoxyethylene content. Kissa and Dettre have emphasised the importance of an

106

appropriate HLB in order to achieveoptimum soil-release behaviour with these polymer systems.

The earliest soil-release finishes were hydroxyl-containing water-soluble polymers such as starch, carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA). Their function was to form a protective coating over the fabric, which was subsequently removed along with any soilduring laundering. Those polymers used commercially, however, contain combinations of ethylene oxide, hydroxyl and carboxyl groups and are applied in conjunction with formaldehyde reactants for durable press/soil-release finishing .

c) Hybrid-fluorocarbon polymersConventional fluorocarbon finishes are known for their extremely low surface energy, which imparts the property of oil repellency in a dry state. In an aqueous environment, however, an oil droplet is preferentially attracted to the oily fluorocarbon finish rather than to the surroundinghydrophilic environment, such that the droplet remains bound to the fabric surface during washing. Hence, for both soil-repellent and soil-release properties, Smith and coworkers have postulated that the following factors are necessary:(1) substantial reduction in surface irregularities;(2) reduction in surface energy of the fibre (to prevent spreading of oily soils in the dry state);(3) increase in surface hydrophilicity of the fibre (to facilitate release of oily stains in the wet state).

In order to satisfy these apparently contradictory criteria specific hybrid-fluorocarbon soil-release agents have been developed, possessing a block copolymer structure, These polymers are capable of performing a dual function as a result of the different orientation of the lipophilic and hydrophilic segments of the polymer in air and in water. In thedry state, the polyoxyethylene segments remain coiled and the fluorocarbon moieties dominate the surface, ensuring the property of low surface energy, similar to a conventional fluorocarbonfinish. In water, however, the oxyethylene segments swell with hydration, and thus impart a hydrophilic surface, essential for soil release during laundering.While the presence of the fluorocarbon finish does not allow oily soil to penetrate via wicking into fibre capillaries, a disadvantage of this surface effect is that the oily soil remains concentrated over a smaller fabric area, such that after washing the soiled area may appear to contain no less residual soil than similar untreated fabrics.

107

d) Non-polymer treatments

(1) Alkali treatment of polyester: Alkaline hydrolysis of polyester is a well established treatment for the purpose of softening polyester and producing a silk-like handle. As a result of attackby hydroxide ions, the surface of polyester is rendered more hydrophilic by the generation of hydroxyl and carboxylate end groups as shown below:

A further consequence of this treatment is that a significant improvement in soil-release behaviour also results. Treatment with aqueous sodium hydroxide (10%) is reported to result in polyester fibres with excellent soil-release properties.

(2) Plasma treatment of polyester: The modification of polyester fabric by plasma irradiation has been found to increase surface hydrophilicity of the fabric [89]. The advantage of this technology is that chemical changes are confined to the polymer surface and therefore the bulk properties of the fibre are generally not affected. In one recent study, plasma-treated polyester fabric samples were agitated in laboratory-formulated oily soil for 1 min and then gently blotted and air dried. The extent of soil repellency was determined by reflectance measurement.This work showed that DC plasma treatment significantly improved the soil repellency, from approximately 30% to 68%, reaching a steady state over an irradiation time of 15 to 120 s.

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4.1 SOIL & STAIN RELEASE:

4.1.1 Aim: To carry out clariant’s soil & stain release finish system on cotton poplin and cotton knitwear fabrics and to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

4.1.2 Chemicals Used:1. Arkofix NES liqc.2. MgCl2.6H2O.3. NUVA N4547 liq: Nuva N4547 liq. gives cotton and cotton/polyester blends a very good soil-release and oil-repellent finishing with good durabilities.

Salient Features: displays a improved viscosity. displays low sensitivity to residues on the goods. displays very good stabilities in combination with glyoxal resins

(Arkofix types) and the needed catalysts as well as selected softeners (e.g. Ceralube® PHD liq. c or Ceralube® JW liq.).

contains no detectable* contentents of PFOA and PFOS.

Properties: Appearance –Liquid, nearly colourless dispersion Composition- Dispersion of a fluorine compound Ionicity- Weakly cationic Soil release effect- Reduces the soil retentivity of articles made of

cellulosic fibres and their blends. Oleophobic effect- Very good values of high durability are

achieved if the product is used in accordance with the recipe. Stability to washing- Withstands several home launderings if the

product is used in accordance with the recipe.

4. Ceralube HD.5. Fluowet UD liq:

Wetting agent in aqueous solutions.

Salient Features:

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Has surface active properties in almost all media. Does not adversely affects the hydrophobic effect of finishes

since it has no rewetting properties. Very good stability to hard water. Low foaming power.

Properties:

Appearance- liquid. Chemical character- aqueous solution of a fatty alcohol

ethoxylate. Ionic character- non ionic. Wetting power on cotton-

1.0 gm active ingredient/l in distilled water: about 10 secs sinking time (25C).

6. Acetic acid 60%.

4.1.3 Recipe:COTTON POPLIN

RECIPE NO.

CONCENTRATION(g/l)

Arkofix NES liq c.

MgCl2.6H2O NUVA N4547

Ceralube HD

Fluowet UD liq

Acetic acid (60%)

1 30 6 40 20 2 0.52 - - 40 20 - -

Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of approximately 80%. The padded fabrics were then dried at 100C . After drying,The fabrics padded with recipe 1 were then shock cured at 175C for 30 seconds.While the fabrics padded with recipe 2 were then shock cured at 170C for 20 seconds.

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COTTON KNITWEAR:

CONCENTRATION(g/l)CHEMICALS

Arkofix NES liq c.

MgCl2.6H2O

NUVA N4547

Ceralube HD

Fluowet UD liq

Acetic acid (60%)

- - 80 20 - -

Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of approximately 75%. The padded fabrics were then dried at 100C . After this, the fabrics were shock cured at 170C for 20 seconds.

4.1.4 Observations:Cotton Poplin (Recipe 1 & 2)

Recipe 1(including resin finish):

UN POPLIN POPLIN0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

TEAR STRENGTH

Ratin

g in

Kg

Forc

e

111

UN POPLIN POPLIN0

5

10

15

20

25

TENSILE STRENGTH

Rat

in in

Kg

Forc

e

Poplin UN TR AFTER 20 WASH0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

WATER REPELLENCY

Ratin

g


0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

OIL REPELLENCY

Ratin

g

112

UN PO TR PO AW PO0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5


Ratin

g

INITIAL AFTER SOIL RELEASE AFTER 20 WASH0

1

2

3

4

5

6

STAINING

Ratin

g

113

Recipe 2 (without resin):


0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

WATER REPELLENCYRa

ting


0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

OIL REPELLENCY

Ratin

g

114


1

2

3

4

5

6

STAININGRa

ting

100% Cotton knitwear:


0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

STAINING

Rat

ing

115

5.1.5 Results and observations:Recipe 1:After treating cotton poplin with soil & stain release finish, it can be conclude that:

1. The mechanical properties such as tensile strength and tear strength decreased significantly.

2. The repellency properties such as oil repellency and water repellency increased moderately after treatment and remained the same after 20 washes also.However, the treated as well as after 20 washes fabric showed excellent stain repellent properties.

3. After 5 washes, the treated fabric showed more wrinkles resulting in a lower DP rating as compared to the untreated fabrics.

Recipe 2:1. The repellency properties such as oil repellency and water

repellency increased moderately after treatment and remained the same after 20 washes also.However, the treated as well as after 20 washes fabric showed excellent stain repellent properties.

100% cotton knitwear:a) The treated as well as after 20 washes fabric showed stain release

properties for mineral and corn oil.However, for motor oil the stain release properties only increased slightly after treatment.

4.2 EASY CLEAN & COMFORT

4.2.1 Aim: To carry out clariant’s easy clean & comfort finish system on cotton poplin and cotton knitwear fabrics and to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

Chemicals:a) Nuva N4118:gives cotton and cotton/polyester blends a very good

soil-release finishing with good durabilities and improved soaking abilities.

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Salient features:

Displays a improved moisture transportation than traditional SR finishes.

Displays low sensitivity to residues on the goods. Displays very good stabilities in combination with glyoxal resins

(Arkofix types) and the needed catalysts as well as selected softeners.

Properties:

Appearance Liquid, nearly colourless dispersionComposition Dispersion of a fluorine compoundIonicity Weakly cation

b) Arkophob SR.c) Solusoft TOW liq c.d) Hydroperm HV.e) Acetic acid 60 %.f) Fuowet UD.g) Arkofix ELF.h) MgCl2.6H2O.

4.2.2 Recipe:

CONCENTRATION(g/l)FABRIC

Nuva N4118.

Arkophob SR.

Solusoft TOW liq c.

Hydroperm HV.

Acetic acid 60 %.

Fuowet UD

Arkofix ELF.

MgCl2.6H2O.

Cotton knit

40 6 5 3 1 3 - -

Cotton poplin

40 6 5 3 1 3 6 6

Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of approximately 70-80%. The padded fabrics were then shock cured at 170-175C for 20-30 seconds.

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4.2.3 Observations:CO poplin:

UN PO TR PO AW PO0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5


Rat

ing

UN POPLIN POPLIN0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

TEAR STRENGTH

Ratin

g in

Kg

Forc

e

118

UN POPLIN POPLIN0

5

10

15

20

25

TENSILE STRENGTH

Rat

ing

in K

g Fo

rce


1

2

3

4

5

6

STAINING

Ratin

g

CO knit:


1

2

3

4

5

6

STAINING

Ratin

g

119

4.2.4 Results and conclusions: After treating CO poplin and CO knitwear fabrics with easy clean & comfort, it can be concluded that:

CO poplin:a) The mechanical properties such as tear strength and tensile

strength decreased after treatment.b) After 5 washes, the treated fabric showed more wrinkles

resulting in a lower DP rating as compared to the untreated fabrics.

c) The fabric showed excellent stain repellent properties after treatment which remained the same even after 20 washes.

CO knit:a) The fabric showed excellent stain repellent properties after

treatment which remained the same even after 20 washes.

5. UV PROTECTION

5.1 DEFINITION : UV protection finishes refer to the finishes applied an textile materials which tackle the prevention from harmful effects of solar ultraviolet(UV) radiations on human skin.

5.2 PURPOSE: Long term exposure to UV light can result in acceleration of skin ageing, photodermatosis(acne), phototoxic reactions to drugs, erythema(skin reddening), sunburn, increased risk of melanoma(skin cancer), eye damage and DNA damage.

5.3 THEORY:Solar radiation striking the earth’s surface is composed of light waves

120

with wavelengths ranging from infrared to UV.Although the intensity of Uvradiations is much less than that of visible or infrared radiations, the energy per photon is significantly higher.The very high energy of UV-C photons is mostly absorbed by ozone in the higher regions of the atmosphere decreasing their relative intensity on the earth to almost zero.But the energies of UV-B and UV-C photons can be used to initiate the chemical reactions.The wavelengths of UV radaitions most harmful to human skin are 305-310 nm.

Therefore, textiles must demonstrate UV protection between 300-320 nm approximately.

Solar protection factor(SPF):SPF is the ratio of the potential erythemal effect to the actual erythemal effect transmitted through the fabric by the radiation and can be measuredf using spectroscopic measurements.Typically a fabric with an SPF>40 is considered to provide excellent protection against UV radiations.

121

5.3.1 Applications:UV protection finish is usually carried out on fabrics used in the summer season such as those used for making lightweight shirts, T-shirts, swimwear, beachwear, sportswear, etc.Industrial fabrics used for canopies, tents,awnings also benefit from suvh a finish.

5.3.2 Mechanism of UV protection:Whwn radaition strikes a fibre surface, it can be reflected, aabsorbed, transmitted or pass between the fibres.The relative amounts of radiation reflected, absorbed or transmitted depend on many factors such as:

Fibre type: Cotton and silk offer little protection to UV radiations while wool and polyester have sigificant higher SPFs.Nylon falls in between these extremes.

Fabric smoothness. Fabric cover factor.: If the fibres absorb all of the incident

radiation, then the only source of transmitted rays is ths spacing between the yarns.Therefore maximum SPF is given by:

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Presence of dyes, delustrants, UV absorbers, etc: the presence of certain dyes and UV absorbers lead to the absorption of UV radiations by them.

5.3.3 Chemistry of UV protection finishes:Requirements for a material to be effective as a UV protection finish:

Efficient absorption of UV radiation between 300-320 nm. Quick transformation of UV energy into the vibration energy in the

absorber molecules and then into heat energy which dissipates into surrroundings without photodegradation.

Convenient application. Lack of added color.

Some typical chemical structures are shown in the figures given below:

123

Structures of UV absorbers for synthetic fibres

124

Structures of UV absorbers for natural fibres.

5.4 EXPERIMENT:

5.4.1 Aim : To carry out with Rayosan C, clariant’s UV protection finish system on cotton poplin fabric and to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

5.4.2 Chemicals:1. Rayosan C:

Fibre-reactive UV absorber for cellulosic and polyamide fibers and their blends. Characteristics:

reacts as a UV absorber with the hydroxyl groups of cellulosic fibers and the amino groups of polyamide fibers

produces lightfast and washfast absorption effects with respect to UV rays

is suitable for application by exhaust as well as continuous methods .

Properties: Appearance- white, viscous liquid Chemical character- heterocyclic compound Ionic character- anionic

2. Drimaren Blue HF-RL.3. Soda ash.4. Glauber’s salt.5. Ladipur RSK.

5.4.3 Recipe:

% on weight of fabric

CONCENTRATION(g/l)

FABRIC Rayosan C

Drimaren Blue HFRL

Soda ash

Glauber’s salt

Ladipur RSK

COTTO 2 0.5 10 40 1

125

N POPLIN 1COTTON POPLIN 2

- 0.5 10 40 1

Dyeing was started at room temperature with an MLR of 1:10, then the temperature was raised to 60C and the dyeing was carried out at this temperature for 45 minutes.

After this, the required quantity of soda ash was added and the dyeing was further carried out for another 45 minutes in the Rota dyer dyeing machine .

The dye pots were then drained, fabrics were rinsed first with cold water and then with hot water(60C).

Further, soaping was carried out using the required quantity of Ladipur RSK and the fabrics were then given a hot wash followed by a cold wash after which they were dried.

5.4.4 Results and conclusions: Cotton poplin fabric was successfully teated with clariant’s UV protection finish system.

6. REPELLANT FINISHES:

CLARIANT’S EFFECT LABELS UNDER REPELLANT FINISHES

6.1 REPELLENCE PROTECTION.6.2 CARE 4 COMFORT.6.3 RAPID DRY.

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THEORY:

Water repellency and water proofing:The term ‘water-repellent’ is actually a relative term because there is always some attraction between a liquid and a solid with which the liquid is in contact . Thus, water-repellency is taken to be ‘the relative degree of resistance of a fabric to surface wetting, water penetration, water absorption or any combination of these properties.

Wetting:Many treatments in textile wet processing rely fundamentally upon complete wetting out of a textile structure to achieve satisfactory performance.

The wettability of a fabric is important from two points of view. Firstly, good wettability is usually associated with good textile wet processing; equally, the ability of the finished fabric to exhibit repellency (zero or low wettability) properties in the presence of water, oil and stains isessential if high standards of water-repellency, oil-repellency and stain-repellency are to be achieved under end-use conditions.In classical thermodynamic theory, the wetting of a solid by a liquid occurs if there is a decrease in the free energy of the system. If the sum of the interfacial energies, F, decreases , then spontaneous wetting will occur as a result of the liquid–solid contact. This maybe expressed by the equation:

where A denotes the area and the subscripts S, L and V represent the solid, the liquid, and the vapour of the liquid respectively. γ is the surface tension – that is, the surface energy per unit area.

Thus, spontaneous wetting occurs when the change in the free surface energy of a system (ΔF) is negative, when the surface energy F1 changes to F2, whence:

The equilibrium contact angle:

127

When a drop of liquid is placed upon a solid surface and does not spread, the drop shape appears to be constant and the contact angle is given by the value of θ.The equilibrium contact angle θ is generally considered to be indicative of the wettability of the solid by the liquid. High values of contact angle θ indicate poor wettability (for example, θ > 110°) while low contact angles indicate good wettability. Theoretically, the equilibrium contact angle ofa completely non-wetting liquid on a perfectly smooth, homogeneous, impermeable and nondeformable surface should be 180°, but in practice none of these conditions are obtained, and indeed the action of gravity can deform the shape of the drop. Thus, values less than 180° arealways observed.

Critical surface tension of a solid:

Pioneering work by Zisman and his coworkers established that when the advancing contact angles of a series of homologous liquids on low-energy surfaces (for example, fluorocarbons and hydrocarbons) were measured, a plot of the cosθ values against the surface tension of the liquids extrapolated approximately to the same value of γLV at cosθ = 1. This surface tension value was termed the ‘critical surface tension of the solid’, γC. It was further proposed that only liquids with surface tension values lower than γC would spread on the surface, whereas liquids with surface tension values greater than γC would form a finite contactangle on the solid. It has proved to be a very useful approach for use in research and developmentwork on water- and oil-repellent treatments for textile fabrics.

128

Water has a hydrogen-bonded liquid structure with a high surface tension, γLV (72.75 mN m–1 at 20 °C) . It has been established that repellent finishes that contain either a hydrocarbon base with a γC value of about 30 mN m–1 or polysiloxane (silicone) finishes with a γC value ofaround 24 mN m–1 can give very good water-repellency. However, the surface tension values of hydrocarbon-based oils are much lower than water, and generally within the range 20–31 mN m–1. Under such circumstances, it is not surprising that the hydrocarbon and thepolysiloxane water-repellent finishes do not provide oil-repellency, because in this case the surface tension of the oil may be low enough to wet the surface of the finish.

Therefore, to repel hydrocarbon-based oils with surface tension values (γLV) of around 20–31 mN m–1 it is necessary to use finishes with even lower critical surface tension values (γC). Fluorocarbon (fluorochemical)finishes are available with critical surface tension values below 15 mN m–1 and these provide satisfactory water- and oil-repellency depending upon the nature of the pendant fluorocarbonchains .The surface tensions of selected liquids at 20 °C as well as the critical surface tension values (C) at 20 °C for various fibres are given in the tables below.

It is clear that majority of the liquids have lower surface tension values than the critical surface tension values of the fibres and hence will wet

129

and spread on the fibre (and fabric) surface. The incorporation of a wetting agent (that is, surfactant) into water lowers the surface tension below that of most textile fibres , promoting wettability and penetration within the structure of the textile material.

Repellency of textile fabrics:

The repellency of a textile fabric depends upon the resistance to wetting and penetration by a liquid. Water and oil are the most important liquids for normal textile fabric end-uses. The main parameters that determine the resistance of a fabric to wetting are:

the chemical nature of the fibre surfaces (for example, presence of polar or non-polar groups);

the geometry and roughness of the fibre surfaces (for example, longitudinal striations, fissures, crenulations and so on, and modified cross-sections that promote wicking);

the nature of the capillary spacings in the fabric (for example, inter-fibre and inter-yarn capillary spaces).

Thus, there are three different types of behaviour of a liquid (such as water) on a solid surface:(1) region I (γSV – γSL) ≥ γLV the drop spreads right out – wetting occurs;(2) region II γLV > (γSV – γSL) > –γLV a non-spherical drop with a finite contact angle is formed;(3) region III (γSV – γSL) ≥ –γLV a completely spherical drop is formed.These conditions are illustrated in the below:

Conditions for high fabric repellency:In summary, therefore, the conditions for high levels of fabric repellency depend upon the use of:

fine yarns and a close-packed textile structure (for example, high sett weave);

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a thoroughly prepared fabric surface free from impurities (for example, sizes, lubricants and especially surfactants with a rewetting action);

uniform application of a chemical finish to provide a low-energy surface that has a lower critical surface tension (γC) than the surface tension values of the liquids (γLV) likely to be encountered.

Chemistry:

Wax finishes:A popular form of water-repellent treatment over the twentieth century, and still used today, is the application of wax treatments to fabrics at open-width. Typically wax formulations contain paraffin wax (melting point 52–56°C) either by itself or in combination with one or more waxes based upon esters of higher fatty acids and higher monohydric alcohols. Beeswax (mainly myricyl palmitate, C15H31COOC30H61, m.p. up to 62–65 °C), carnauba wax (myricyl cerotate) C25H51COOC30H61, m.p. 83–86 °C) and Vaseline (C18–C22 alkane, m.p. up to 60 °C) have also been used according to the finisher’s requirements.

The most common method of application now, however, is to pad an aqueous wax emulsion onto the fabric followed by melting and redistributing the wax by some form of heating under pressure – for example, by hot calendaring.

Pyridinium-based water-repellent finishes:

Typically halogen ethers of the general formula were reacted with tertiary bases to yield water-soluble quaternary ammonium compounds. (R = alkyl radical (at least C8), X = halogen radical, R′ = hydrogen or a hydrocarbon radical (at least C8)).

Thus the reaction of octadecanol, formaldehyde and dry HCl could yield a substituted methyl chloride via the reaction in Scheme given below. This could then be further reacted with tertiary bases such as triethylamine or pyridine to generate quaternary ammonium compounds

131

with good aqueous solubility, and strong wetting out and foaming properties.

Impregnating cotton fabrics with aqueous solutions of quaternary ammonium compounds such as octadecyloxymethyl pyridinium chloride give rise to a durable water-repellent finish after drying and heating.During the heating stage thermal decomposition of the pyridinium salt took place, which was then followed by the reaction of the liberated chloralkyl ether with the cellulosic hydroxyl groups.

Velan PF in 1937 was patented as a durable water-repellent for cellulosic fabric. This product was considered to be stearamidomethyl pyridinium chloride, which was formed by the reaction of stearamide, pyridine hydrochloride, pyridine and paraformaldehyde.

Silicone finishes:

Silicones, based on polysiloxanes, are used widely as water repellant finishes. Water hydrolyses chloromethylsilanes to silanols, which thencondense spontaneously to form siloxanes.Polysiloxanes consist of a –O–Si–O–Si– backbone. Polysiloxanes for use as water-repellent agents for textiles are usually mixtures of linear polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrogen siloxanes .

132

where R may be a hydrogen, hydroxyl, alkyl, aryl or alkoxyl group.

Commercial water-repellents for textiles are thus based upon block copolymers of the form shown in Structure below:

The introduction of the reactive hydrogen atoms in the polymethylhydrogen siloxane lowers the temperature and time required to cure the silicone water-repellent finish down to acceptable commercial application conditions, namely 120–150 °C for several minutes, whereasthe fully methylated siloxane would require several hours at 200–250 °C to obtain satisfactory water-repellency. Polydimethylsiloxanes form a flexible surface film over textile fibres, which imparts a softhandle whereas polymethylhydrogen siloxanes polymerise to leave a hard brittle surface film with a harsh handle. The incorporation of the polydimethylsiloxane thus acts as a plasticizer and provides good water-repellency with a soft handle.The ≡Si–H bond is hydrolysed by water to form a silanol group (≡SiOH), which can then condense with another silanol group or a silane group (≡Si–H) to form crosslinks:

133

It is well known that a fabric that has been padded with silicone, dried and heat-cured, if tested immediately after heat-curing, does not always give the optimum water-repellency value . The reason for this is that during heat-curing the crosslinking process is not fully completed, and upon storage of the treated fabric under normal ambient conditions for about 24 hours, crosslinking is fully completed by hydrolysis and/or oxidative attack on the silane groups, ≡Si–H, to form the fully crosslinked silicone polymer film on the fibre surfaces. This imparts themaximum water-repellency and durability of the finish to subsequent washing and dry-cleaning.

The effectiveness of the polysiloxane water-repellent finish is greatly enhanced by the use of catalysts, which function by improving the adhesion of the polysiloxane chain to the fibre surface.Zirconium oxychloride, and zirconium acetate are common egs of catalysts used with polysiloxane emulsions.

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Application:Polysiloxanes are normally applied to textiles by padding the material through an aqueous polysiloxane emulsion followed by drying and curing for several minutes at 120–150 °C.

Fluorochemical repellent finishes:

The critical surface tension of a fully oriented polysiloxane finish is only ~24 mN m–1, which is not low enough to prevent hydrocarbon-based oils – for example, n-heptane (γLV = 20 mN m–1) and n-octane (γLV = 22 mN m–1) – from wetting, spreading and wicking into the structure of thesilicone-treated textile material. Fluorochemicals, which exhibit a lower surface energy (γc ~ 15 mN m–1) than silicones, do however enable the textile finisher to provide both water and oil-repellency. They are widely used as protective agents against water and oil, stains and soiling in the textile. Fluorochemical finishes thus produce durable surface finishes for textiles with repellency properties that contribute greatly to the high standards of easy-care performance desired by the consumer in both apparel and household textiles.

Fluorochemicals (fluorocarbons) are a class of synthetically produced organic chemicals that contain a perfluoroalkyl residue in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine. Fluorochemicals exhibit outstanding chemical and thermal stability, low reactivity through their incompatibility with water and oil, and considerable reduction insurface tension.The extremely low critical surface tension and high surface activity associated with fluorochemicals are also a consequence of the unique molecular topography in which there is a high

135

degree of protection provided by the fluorine atoms to the shielded carbon scaffold.

Synthesis of fluorochemicals:

Fluorspar may be treated with sulphuric acid to provide hydrogen fluoride via the following reaction

Hydrogen fluoride is then used in various reactions to synthesise fluorochemicals.The current techniques available for the formation of fluorochemicals depend upon:(1) Telomerisation;(2) Electrochemical fluorination;(3) Direct fluorination.Among these the most widely used technique is that of telomerisation.

Telomerisation:Addition of hydrogen fluoride to unsaturated organic compounds such as ethylene (ethene) can be used to form an organofluorine compound, ethyl fluoride:

Alternatively, organofluorine compounds can be generated through halogen exchangeReactions:

\

Tetrafluoroethylene (the telogen) is then subjected to a free-radicalpolymerisation process. This gives rise to linear polymers of thegeneral formula CnF2n+1C2H4I with a chain length distribution n ranging from 4 to 14 or 6 to 12. On average, the telomer chain length found in commercial fluorochemical finish formulations is around 8–10.

136

Telomerisation is also used in the production of the Nuva range of Clariant. The telomerisation synthesis is utilised to providesubsequent high yields of perfluoroalkyl mercaptans and alcohols with the general formula CnF2n+1CH2CH2XH where X = S or O, and n = 6–14. The general effects of the linear chain length distribution on the repellency properties is shown below:

Telomerisation yields only linear chains, which in the Clariant process [73] due to the radical nature of the reaction, exhibit a certain distribution from C6F13 up to C12F25 at C2F4 intervals. For classic fluorochemical applications in textiles for water-repellency, a high content of C8F17 isadvantageous, whereas for surface-active properties a high C6H13 content is generally preffered.The synthesis of fluorochemical building blocks using telomerisation as the starting route is summarised as follows:

137

Synthesis of active compounds used in fluorochemical finishes:

Fluorochemical building blocks manufactured via the telomerisation or electrofluorination technologies can be utilised to manufacture fluorochemicals based upon esters,polyurethanes and acrylic polymers .

Formation of fluorochemical block copolymers:

Fluorochemical copolymers with specific properties:

138

The production of fluorochemical copolymers of the general formula can be subtly modified in order to impart specific performance characteristics as shown above. Thus, performance characteristicssuch as:

curing profile; dynamic repellency (spray rating, Bundesmann performance); static repellency (oil- and water-repellency); durability to domestic laundering; durability to dry-cleaning;

can all be modified to optimise the performance profile of the fluorochemical finish for a specific end-use.One example of a water- and oil-repellent fluorinated acrylicCoating is:

Clearly, by varying the type of functionality – for example, hydrophobic/oleophobic groups or hydrophilic groups within the side-chains, and their amount, position and sequence along thepolymer backbone (main chain) – a very wide spread of functional performance can be obtained, and specific performance properties can be engineered into the finish.

Fluorochemical finish formulations:

139

Major components of a fluorocarbon finish are:

Fluorochemical structure in relation to performance:

The optimum orientation of –CF3 terminal groups form a low-energy repellent surface only takes place if the length of the perfluorinated side-chain is at least seven atoms. This maximises the –CF3 group density

140

projecting away from the fibre surface. The exact nature of the comonomers designated R1, R2 and R3 in the structure may be varied in order to regulate the properties of the fluorochemical film.

The critical surface tension decreases fairly rapidly as the chain length (n) increases from 1 to 8, after which little further decrease incritical surface tension is noted. As the critical surface tension of the fluorochemicalfilm on the fibre surface is decreased, the water- and oil-repellency rise, reaching their maximum protective value around a chain length of n = 9.

Oil- and water-repellency of fabrics treated with acrylic polymersa.

141

Improvement of the durability of fluorochemical finishes:

The durability of fluorochemical finishes can be improved by crosslinking systems that modify the structure of the film formed on the fibre surface. Three approaches have been used:(1) masked polyurethanes;(2) crosslinkable monomers;(3) polycarbodiimides.

Application:Light- and medium-weight fabrics (linings, apparel, and homefurnishing fabrics) may be saturated by immersion in a pad bath containing the fluorochemical and any appropriate auxiliaries followed by squeezing in a two-bowl or three-bowl nip. Heavier weight fabrics, as used in upholstery, awnings and blinds, may be foam-coated or sprayed with the fluorochemical finish.After impregnation, the fabric is dried at temperatures of about 110–130 °C followed by heatcuring at a temperature of 150 °C for 3–4 min, or 160–180°C for 30–45 s.

142

Fluorochemical requirements profile:

143

Dual action hybrid fluorochemical finishes:In air clsed packed fluorochemical groups dominate while in water they flip to leave the hydrocarbon oriented towards the surface.

144

6.1 REPELLENCE PROTECTION

6.1.1 Aim: To carry out repellence protection finish system on the following fabrics:

1. Polyester (PES) knit.2. Cotton (CO) knit.3. Cotton (CO) poplin.4. Polyester cotton blend (PES/CO).

And to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

6.1.2 Chemicals:1. Nuva N2114 liq: is a finishing product for extremely durable

water- and oil-repellent finishing of textiles made of synthetic and cellulosic fibres, especially cotton, polyester and their blends.

Characteristics: displays low sensitivity to residues on the goods. displays very good effectivenesses after laundering and air drying. doesn’t contain detectable amounts of PFOA.

Properties: Appearance- Liquid, white dispersion . Composition- Dispersion of a fluorine compound . Ionicity- Weakly cationic

2. Ceraperm SFC.3. Acetic acid(60%).

4. Fluowet UD liq.

5. Arkofix ELF liq c.

6. Catalyst NKC.

7. Ceraperm SFC: Specially developed silicone compound for soft

fluorocarbon finishes.

Characteristics: Supplies a pleasant soft hand feel.

No negative influence on water- and oil repellency.

145

Virtually no negative influence on soil release finishes .

Reduces considerably the negative influence of resin on fluorocarbon products.

Main use on cotton and cotton blends.

For woven and knitwear.

Gives good sewability properties in combination with fluorocarbons on knitwear.

Only slight influence on the thermomigration of disperse dyes on PES or PES – blends.

Properties:

Appearance Slightly yellowish to yellow dispersionChemical character silicone compoundIonic character cationic

6.1.3 Recipe:

CONCENTRATION(g/l)Recipe

FABRIC

Nuva N2114

Ceraperm SFC liq c.

Acetic acid (60%)

Fluowet UD liq

Arkofix ELF liq c

Catalyst NKC.

Recipe 1

PES knit 50 10 0.5 3 - -CO knit 50 10 0.5 3 - -CO poplin

50 10 0.5 3 - -

PES/CO blend

50 10 0.5 3 - -

Recipe 2

CO poplin

70 30 0.5 5 30 20

6.1.3.1 Recipe 1: Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of 70-

146

80%. The padded fabrics were then shock cured for 20-30 seconds at 170-175C.

6.1.3.2 Recipe 2: Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of 75% and a pH of 4-5. The padded fabrics were then dried at 100C and cured for 20-30 seconds at 175C.

6.1.4Observations:

6.1.4.1 Recipe 1:

Oil repellency:

CO POPLIN UN TR AFTER 20 WASH0

1

2

3

4

5

6

OIL REPELLENCY

Ratin

g

P/C BLEND UN TR AFTER 20 WASH0

1

2

3

4

5

6

OIL REPELLENCY

Ratin

g

147

CO KN UN TR AFTER 20 WASH0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

OIL REPELLENCY

Ratin

g

PES KN UN TR AFTER 20 WASH0

1

2

3

4

5

6

OIL REPELLENCY

Ratin

g

148

Water repellency:


1

2

3

4

5

6

WATER REPELLENCY

Ratin

g


0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

WATER REPELLENCY

Ratin

g

149


0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

WATER REPELLENCY

Ratin

g


0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

WATER REPELLENCY

Rat

ing

150

Spray test:


20

40

60

80

100

120

SPRAY TEST

Ratin

g


20

40

60

80

100

120

SPRAY TEST

Ratin

g

151

CO KN TR AFTER 20 WASH0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

SPRAY TEST

Ratin

g


10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

SPRAY TEST

Ratin

g

152

Recipe 2:


0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

WATER REPELLENCYRa

ting


0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

OIL REPELLENCY

Ratin

g

153


10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

SPRAY TEST

Ratin

g

UN CO TR CO AW CO0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5


Ratin

g

UN CO CO0

5

10

15

20

25

30

TENSILE STRENGTH

Ratin

g in

Kg

Forc

e

154

UN CO CO0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

TEAR STRENGTH

Ratin

g in

Kg

Forc

e

6.1.5 Results and Observations:

6.1.5.1 Recipe 1: After applying repellence protection finish system on PES knit, CO knit, CO poplin and PES/CO blended fabrics, it can be concluded that:

1. Oil repellency increased significantly for all treated fabrics.Also, after five washes, the treated fabrics retained their oil repellency.

2. Water repellency increased significantly for CO kni, CO poplin and PES/CO blended fabrics after treatment while it increased slightly in PES knit fabric after treatment.Moreover, all fabrics retained their water repellency after 5 washes also.

3. Treated PES/CO blend, PES knitand CO poplin fabrics displayed excellent spray ratings as well as after 5 washes.However, a good spray rating obtaine after treatm,ent for CO knit was again reduced after 5 washes as CO knit inherently has high absorbency.

6.1.5.2 Recipe 2: After applying repellence protection finish system on CO poplin fabric, it can be concluded that:

1. The treated fabric displayed moderate ratings for water and oil repellency after treatment and the fabric retained its repellency properties even after 5 washes.

2. The treated fabric showed excellent spray rating after treatment as well as afetr five washes.

3. The mechanical properties such as tensile and tear strength decreased after treatment for both warp as well as weft directions.

155

4. After 5 washes, the treated fabric showed more wrinkles resulting in a lower DP rating as compared to the untreated fabric.

6.2 CARE 4 COMFORT

6.2.1 Aim: To carry out with Nuva N4200 liq ,clariant’s Care 4 Comfort finish system on the following fabrics:

1. Cotton (CO) knit.2. Polyester (PES) poplin.3. 100% Nylon.

And to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

6.2.2 Chemicals:1. Nuva N4200 liq:

Nuva 4200 liq. combines the effectivnesses of a good soil-release agent, for oily and watery soils, with them of a very good oil and water repellent finishing agent on all kind of fibres, prefered on cotton. It displays low sensitivity to residues on the goods.

156

Properties: Appearance- Liquid, white dispersion.

Ionic nature- Weakly cationic. Chemical Composition- Composition Dispersion of a fluorine

compound.

2. Ceraperm SFC.3. Acetic acid 60%.4. Fluowet UD liq.5. Arkofix ELF liq c.6. MgCl2.6H2O.

6.2.3 Recipe:

CONCENTRATION(g/l)FABRIC Nuva

N4200 liq

Ceraperm SFC liq c.

Acetic acid (60%)

Fluowet UD liq

Arkofix ELF liq c

Catalyst NKC.

PES knit 60 15 1 3 - -CO knit 80 5 0.5 3 30 10100% Nylon

60 15 1 3 - -

PES knit, 100% Nylon fabric samples: Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of 70-80% and a pH of 4-5.The padded fabrics were then shock cured for 30 seconds at 175C.

CO knit: Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of 70-80% .The padded fabrics were then shock cured for 30 seconds at 175C.

6.2.4 Observations:

157

Nylon UN TR AFTER 20 WASH0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

WATER REPELLENCY

Rat

ing


1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

WATER REPELLENCY

Rat

ing


0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5WATER REPELLENCY

Ratin

g

158

Oil repellency:


1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

OIL REPELLENCY

Rat

ing


1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

OIL REPELLENCY

Rat

ing

159


1

2

3

4

5

6

OIL REPELLENCY

Ratin

g

Spray test:

160


10

20

30

40

50

60

SPRAY TEST

Rat

ing


10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

SPRAY TEST

Ratin

g


10

20

30

40

50

60

SPRAY TEST

Ratin

g

161

6.2.5 Results and observations: After applying care 4comfort pro finish system on CO knit, PES knit and 100% nylon fabrics, it can be concluded that:a) PES knit and 100% nylon fabrics showed excellent water

repellency after treatment which remained the same even after 20 washes.However, CO knit fabric showed showed only a slight increase in water repellency properties which decreased after 20 washes.

b) All the three treated fabrics showed eexcellent oil repellency properties.

c) The spray ratings increased for all the three fabrics after treatment which remained approximately the same after 20 washes.

7.3RAPID DRY

6.3.1 Aim To carry out with Nuva N4200 liq ,clariant’s Care 4 Comfort finish system on the following fabrics:

4. Cotton (CO) knit.5. Polyester (PES) poplin.6. 100% Nylon.

and to assess the performance of the finish thus produced.

6.3.2 Chemicals:1. Nuva 2114 liq:2. Ceraperm SFC.3. Acetic acid(60%).4. Fluowet UD.

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6.3.3 Recipe:CONCENTRATION(g/l)

FABRIC Nuva N2114 Ceraperm SFC

Acetic acid(60%)

Fluowet UD liq

100% Nylon 30 10 1 3

Padding was done at 20C with a pick up of 70-80%.The padded fabrics were then shock cured for 30 seconds at 175C.

6.3.4 Observations:

6.3.4.1 Water repellency:


1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

WATER REPELLENCY

Ratin

g

6.3.4.2 Oil repellency:


1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

OIL REPELLENCY

Ratin

g

163

6.3.4.3 Spray test:


10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

SPRAY TESTRa

ting

6.3.4.4 Drop test:


5

10

15

20

25

30

35

DROP TEST

Tim

e in

sec

164

6.3.5 Results and conclusions: After applying rapid dry finish system on 100% nylon fabric, it can be concluded that:

1. The treated fabric displayed excellent repellency characteristics such as water repellency, oil repellency and a very high spray rating which remains the same even after 5 washes.

2. The nylon fabric retained its absorbency characteristics after treatment as well as after 5 washes.

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Documents

Clariant report