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CHOOSING THE BEST BACKINGS FOR YOUR MACHINE EMBROIDERY PROJECT The 4 types of backings and when to use them Cut Away Backings Excellent stability, during and after embroidery remove excess backing with scissors or shears. Most remain with the embroidered design through out the life of the garment. These backings are soft to the touch and feel smooth when worn next to the skin. Different weights, or thicknesses are available to match each of your project needs. Optimal for: non-stable and stretchy fabrics such as knits and lightweight woven fabrics Tear Away Backings Temporary stability while hooping and during the embroidery process. Most soften over time and eventually wash away so it is important that the fabric be able to support the embroidered design with normal wear and tear due to natural laundry cycles. Optimal for: tightly woven fabrics such as heavy twill, denim, home décor, canvas and duck cloth Wash Away Backings Temporary stability during the hooping and the embroidery process. Best used when you do not want any residual backings left over on an embroidered garment. Rinse with warm water or launder to remove. Optimal for: super stretchy and slippery fabrics such as Lycra® and Spandex® as well as stand-alone lace, heirloom and cut-work embroidery Heat Away Backings (Films) Embroider directly on film to create stand-alone patches, badges and emblems that are perforated and popped out. Excess material can be removed with a heat gun or heat press. Optimal for: stand-alone applications. Lighter films are used as a backing or topping with delicate fabrics such as satin and velvet when using water is not an option. Backings, also called stabilizers, are a major foundation for achieving high quality machine embroidered designs. They are placed underneath the garment when hooping to stabilize the fabric while it is being embroidered. Backings should always be used with machine embroidery! In addition to stabilizing the fabric, they allow the hooped garment to slide more smoothly over the needle arm of the embroidery machine. 800.225.3001 Madeirausa.com Backing Weights - Basic Cut Away, Basic Tear Away and Soft Tear Away backings are available in different weights or thicknesses. For larger and more dense designs, use a heavier the backing. With lighter and more open designs, use a lighter backing. Medium backings are best for the in between designs. Basic Cut Away Lightweight: 1.5oz. Medium Weight: 2.0 oz. to 2.5 oz. Heavy Weight: 3.0 oz. to 3.1 oz. Basic & Soft Tear Away Lightweight: 1.0 oz. Medium Weight: 1.5 oz. Heavy Weight: 1.8 oz. to 2.0 oz.

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CHOOSING THE BEST BACKINGS FOR YOUR MACHINE EMBROIDERY PROJECT

The 4 types of backings – and when to use them

Cut Away Backings Excellent stability, during and after embroidery – remove excess backing with scissors or shears. Most remain with the embroidered design through out the life of the garment. These backings are soft to the touch and feel smooth when worn next to the skin. Different weights, or thicknesses are available to match each of your project needs. Optimal for: non-stable and stretchy fabrics such as knits and lightweight woven fabrics Tear Away Backings Temporary stability while hooping and during the embroidery process. Most soften over time and eventually wash away so it is important that the fabric be able to support the embroidered design with normal wear and tear due to natural laundry cycles. Optimal for: tightly woven fabrics such as heavy twill, denim, home décor, canvas and duck cloth Wash Away Backings Temporary stability during the hooping and the embroidery process. Best used when you do not want any residual backings left over on an embroidered garment. Rinse with warm water or launder to remove. Optimal for: super stretchy and slippery fabrics such as Lycra® and Spandex® as well as stand-alone lace, heirloom and cut-work embroidery Heat Away Backings (Films) Embroider directly on film to create stand-alone patches, badges and emblems that are perforated and popped out. Excess material can be removed with a heat gun or heat press. Optimal for: stand-alone applications. Lighter films are used as a backing or topping with delicate fabrics such as satin and velvet when using water is not an option.

Backings, also called stabilizers, are a major foundation for achieving high quality machine embroidered designs. They are placed underneath the garment when hooping to stabilize the fabric while it is being embroidered. Backings should always be used with machine embroidery! In addition to stabilizing the fabric, they allow the

hooped garment to slide more smoothly over the needle arm of the embroidery machine.

800.225.3001 Madeirausa.com

Backing Weights - Basic Cut Away, Basic Tear Away and Soft Tear Away backings are available in different weights or thicknesses. For larger and more dense designs, use a heavier the backing. With lighter and more open designs, use a lighter backing. Medium backings are best for the in between designs. Basic Cut Away Lightweight: 1.5oz. Medium Weight: 2.0 oz. to 2.5 oz. Heavy Weight: 3.0 oz. to 3.1 oz. Basic & Soft Tear Away Lightweight: 1.0 oz. Medium Weight: 1.5 oz. Heavy Weight: 1.8 oz. to 2.0 oz.

E-Zee Cut® Away Basic Backing – non-woven stabilizers that come in multiple weights or thicknesses to accommodate all manner of designs and densities on unstable knit and lightly woven fabrics. E-Zee Tear® Away Basic Crisp Backing – lightweight, medium weight and heavy weight non-woven stabilizer. These are intended to be used with tightly woven fabrics like denim, canvas, heavy twill and other tightly woven fabric. The crispness of these stabilizers allows for easy and clean tear away. E-Zee Tear® Away Basic Soft Backing – soft tear away stabilizers tear away easily leaving light fuzzy remnants that eventually wash away during laundering. Great for use with terry towels with crisp, clean designs. E-Zee Cap® Backing – heavy weight, tear away stabilizers, cut thin so they fit nicely within cap style frames. Available in both pre-cuts and rolls to accommodate embroidery on fronts and sides of baseball caps. Using more than one piece can help to ensure that the material is closer to the needle plate to avoid the needle deflection common when embroidering on caps. E-Zee Cut® Wash Away Backing – true wash away stabilizers that are removed completely with warm water. These non-woven fibrous type backings are great for use with Free Standing Lace, Heirloom and Cutwork embroidery. They can also be used with sturdy and stable fabrics where you prefer that the backing be removed completely. E-Zee Performance Wear Backing – medium weight, woven cut away stabilizers. The thin, low profile materials prevent the “badge effect” often caused when too heavy of a backing, or multiple pieces of a heavy weight backing are used with thin performance wear garments. E-Zee Weblon No Show and E-Zee Cut Performance backings fall in this category. E-Zee Tear® Stick-On Backing – tear away backing with a pressure sensitive adhesive on one side. The release paper protects the adhesive until it is needed. Great for hard to hoop items like, collars, cuffs and delicate fabrics that are prone to hoop burns. E-Zee Cut® Extra-Stable Backing – basic cut away style backing with an embedded grid that provides enhanced stability for unstable knit and lightly woven fabrics. Great for high stitch and high density designs.

E-Zee Tear® Waffle Backing – tiny holes in this soft tear away stabilizer make it easier to tear excess backing away, with minimal stress to the embroidered area, once embroidery is complete. Great for delicate fabrics and designs. E-Zee Cut® Web Mesh Backing – 1.6 oz., made of polyester fibers with a melting point of 450 - 460°F. This soft, mesh Cut Away stabilizer is suitable for infant and children's wear. E-Zee Appliqué Magic Backing – double sided adhesive backing. Heat activated adhesive secures the backing to your appliqué material while a pressure sensitive adhesive on the other side holds the appliqué template securely in place for the tack down stitches. No need for spray adhesives or heat seals. E-Zee Badgemaster® – thick water soluble film. Designs is embroidered directly on to the film which is removed completely or partially with warm water. Great for free-standing lace, heirloom and cutwork embroidery. E-Zee Film Laminate – single sided laminate material; used to seal off the back side of badges and also for re-sealing weather resistant garments that have been embroidered on. E-Zee Heat Seals – double sided adhesive films used to finish off the back of badges. Also used to adhere badges to caps, bags, jackets and other garments. E-Zee Badge Film – 100 micron thick film used to create and embroider pop-away badges, emblems and patches. Residual film material can be removed with heat. E-Zee Film Lightweight – 30 micron thick film used as a heat away topping or backing. E-Zee Backing Finishers – heat activated non-woven materials cover up the reverse side of embroidery. They give a finished look and provide a smooth surface for sensitive skin. E-Zee 3D Foam – foam sheets available in black and white and other colors. They are used to produce raised embroidery on caps, jackets and other tightly woven fabrics.

E-Zee Aqua® Supreme Topping – a water soluble topping that prevents intricate parts of a design from sinking into the nap or pile of high profile fabrics. The crispness of a design can be enhanced as well, especially when using a thinner 60 or 70 weight thread. Will dissolve with water or steam. Small bits of topping are removed by dabbing with dampened residual pieces of E-Zee Aqua® Supreme topping, also known as the “bubble gum” technique. Use on top of fabric such as fleece, sweaters, corduroy and other soft knits for visibly enhanced designs.

Selecting the best Stabilizer for your project from Madeira’s E-Zee Backing & Topping®

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With E-Zee Aqua® Supreme Topping

Without E-Zee Aqua® Supreme Topping

Acrylic/Waffle Knit– loose knit fabric. Medium to heavy-weight cut away backing offers optimum stability. Use with water soluble topping for clean and crisp designs. Ex. Sweaters and sweatshirts various thickness. Broadcloth – lightweight woven fabric. Use a lightweight cut away backing. Smaller designs work best on this lighter fabric. Ex. Dress shirts and skirts Canvas /Duck Cloth (tighter weave canvas)– heavy woven fabric. Use a heavier tear away backing for larger, more dense designs; lighter for smaller, less dense designs. Embroidered designs are practically limitless on these very stable fabrics. Ex. Totes, footwear , “Oxford” shirts, quilting, tablecloths Corduroy – tightly woven fabric with peaks and valleys known as a wales. Tear away backings work well for most designs. A water soluble topping will keep stitches from sinking and getting lost in the nap. Ex: pants, jackets Cotton/Cotton Blend Dress Shirts – lightweight woven fabric. A thin no-show cut away backing with smaller designs work best on these lighter fabrics. Ex: dress shirts Denim – heavy woven fabric. Characteristic are similar to canvas or duck cloth – see recommendations above. Ex: Jeans, jackets Faux Leather/Vinyl – non-woven man-made fabric. Use tear away backings. Limit high density designs which are prone to perforating these materials. Ex: Clothing, purses Fleece – knit fabric with a fuzzy or napped side. One or two pieces of a lightweight, no show backing and a water soluble topping produce clean and crisp designs. Ex: jackets, vest, blankets Jersey – cotton, cotton blend stretchy knit fabric in various weights. Match a cut away backing weight that supports design elements. Ex: t-shirts, sportswear, bedding Leather – non-woven, natural fabric. Use tear away backings with a clamping type hoop. Limit high density designs to avoid perforating this non-woven material. Ex: Clothing, purses Linen-Cotton Blend – lightweight woven fabric. No-show cut away backing and smaller designs work best on these lighter fabrics. Soft and lightweight tear away backing for when the reverse side will be seen. Ex: Clothing, curtains, napkins, tablecloths, handkerchiefs Nylon – lightweight woven material. Use a lightweight cut away backing for stability. Smaller designs and adjusting digitizing keep puckering to a minimum. Ex: sportswear, jackets, flags

Nylon Webbing – open weave material. A true wash away stabilizer is best . Additional digitizing may be needed to compensate the open areas in this type of fabric. Ex: Pet collars, lanyards, sporting goods

Oxford Cloth – light to medium weight woven fabric. A low profile, medium weight cut away backing is best. Ex: dress shirts Pique – loosely knit, textured fabric. Low profile, medium weight, cut away backings work best. A water soluble topping keeps stitches from getting lost in the nap. Ex: polo shirts Polyester-Performance – knit material. Stretchy, slippery and very unstable; a challenge to hoop. A low profile medium weight cut away backing paired with a lightweight tear away backing is best. Smaller designs are best – avoid high stitch count/high density. Ex: moisture wicking athletic apparel Polyester Performance Pique – knit fabric with texture. Use a low profile, medium weight cut away backing for best results. A water soluble topping keeps stitches from sinking down and getting lost in the nap. Ex: moisture wicking athletic apparel with texture Ripstop – light to medium weight woven fabric; an added grid lends strength. Use lightweight cut away backing. Ex: tents, banners, jackets, hiking gear Satin – lightweight woven fabric; slippery and hard to hoop. A tear away backing with adhesive can help. Ex: gowns, pillows Soft Shell– medium woven fabric. Tear away backings lend necessary stability even for heavier/denser designs. Ex. Jackets, outdoor wear Terry Cloth – heavy woven material with lofty loops. Use a soft tear away backing and a water soluble topping. Ex: Towels, bathrobes Terry (French) – medium knit material with a smooth side and soft loops of fibers on the other side. Use a medium weight cut away backing and a water soluble topping. Ex: lounge shirts and pants, bathrobes Twill – medium to heavy woven fabric, very stable. A heavy weight tear away backing works best. Ex: Jeans, chinos, bags Upholstery – medium to heavy woven fabric, very stable. Match a medium or heavy or weight tear away backing to the fabric weight and design characteristics. Ex: Table cloths, curtains, totes, wall décor, pet bedding Velour – knit material, one side is brushed. Use a cut away backing with a water soluble or heat away topping for design clarity Ex. Pajamas, tracksuits Velvet – tightly woven material, one side is brushed with a raised pile. Use a soft tear away backing and heat away topping for design clarity. Hooping can be a challenge as hoop burns can be hard to remove with this type of fabric. Using an embroidery spray adhesive and laying the fabric on top rather than hooping will prevent this. Ex. Eveningwear, children's dresses, pillows, throws Waffle Weave (honey comb)– non-woven, square embossed material. A soft tear away backing works best. Ex: Towels, bathrobes, blankets

Understanding Fabrics: their needs and limitations with machine embroidery

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Proper Hooping Garments hooped too tight or loose will cause issues. If they are hooped too tight your design and fabric will pucker went removed from the hoop. Too loose and you may lose design registration where the elements of the design do not line up. For optimal hooping, start by setting your hoop tension screw first to what you feel will be enough room to accommodate the fabric and backing. This will become easier the more you practice. Try hooping the garment with the backing. If it is so tight that you need a hammer to push it in (don’t ), loosen the hoop screw until you can somewhat easily press the top hoop in without a lot of effort, but not so loose that it will fall apart when at the machine. Again, this takes practice to perfect. When hooping try placing the bottom part of the top hoop (closest to your abdomen) in first. You will want to slightly tug the top and sides of the fabric so that the fabric inside the hoop is flat. While holding the bottom part of the hoop in place, you can now push the top part of the hoop down. Once hooped, the material should be snug inside the hoop with no movement. If it is not, pull it apart and try again until you have mastered this and can then bring it to the machine to be embroidery. Avoid pulling on the fabric once hooped to remove excess fabric. You run the risk of pulling it too tight causing material puckering and design distortions.

Tips for removing Cut Away Backing To avoid nicking the fabric when trimming away excess E-Zee Cut® Away stabilizers, hold the stabilizer while trimming and let the garment drape. Be sure to face it so you can see both the edge of the design and the fabric while you are trimming. Leave between ¼” to ½” around the design.

Tips for removing Tear Away Backing When removing E-Zee Tear® Away stabilizers, begin by pulling the excess from where there are points on the design, such as corners or thin columns. Tear from the outer edge in towards the design, which will produce a minimal amount of pressure and the least amount of distortion on the design.

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Other factors to consider with machine embroidery

R&D – Madeira’s E-Zee Backing & Topping® division strives to provide the best quality stabilizers in the market. Testing internally as well as with random customer testing is done to ensure that each and every product meets or exceed Madeira’s high standards.

Try before you Buy– Looking to try one of the many E-Zee Backing & Topping® products? Contact us for your free backing book and samples today!

Click Here for an online interactive product guide!

Still have questions? Call and speak to one of our experienced Customer Sales & Support representatives for further questions and assistance!

Quality Backing A high quality stabilizer has good consistent fibers throughout each piece and will provide optimum stability with machine embroidery. Inconsistent and poor quality backings with inconsistent fibers may result in poor quality embroidery.

Temporary Spray Adhesives Embroidery spray adhesives are temporary and fade away over time. They can be used when needed for stretchy and slippery fabrics that tend to be challenging to hoop. Always apply adhesives to the backing and never on the garment itself to avoid glue build up.