CHEMICALS USED IN SKINCARE AND COSMETICS

By: Mary Samimi and Cassie Foglia

History of Cosmetics

Today we live in a society that puts a lot of value on how we look. Many people have been trying to find the fountain of youth for centuries but have not been able to fight the effects of aging. It is interesting to look back in time and see the evolution of cosmetic chemistry. Their have been a lot of accidental discoveries in science and we would be naive to think that cosmetics isn’t one of them.

The Ancient Egyptians were the earliest users of cosmetics for personal, religious, and burial uses. They would keep their skin lubricated by applying fragrant oils, lotions or ointments.

The word ‘cosmetics’ comes from the greek word ‘kosmetikos’ which means skilled in decorating.Around 200A.D. Galen, a Greek physician, mixed rose water, beeswax, and olive oil together to create the first modern cosmetic compound: Cold Cream.

History of Cosmetics

During the Elizabethan Era facial masks were all the rage and formulas for these lotions were made from ingredients such as powdered eggshell, alum, borax, ground almond, poppy seeds, milk, butter, wine, fruits, and vegetables.

History of Cosmetics

Today the cosmetic industry has evolved and become much more complex with the use of chemicals as active ingredients. Now, cosmetics have to be tested before they can be consumed by the masses. It will be interesting to look into the future a century from now and see how much cosmetics have changed and evolved to meet the needs of 22nd century consumer.

History of Cosmetics

Roles of Ingredients in Cosmetics

There are several terms that are commonly used to describe the role of ingredients in cosmetics and skincare products: Solvent

Large group of ingredients used to dissolve or break down other ingredients Used to degrease skin and remove sebum

Emollient Supple, wax like, lubricating, thickening agents Prevent water loss Has softening and soothing effect on the skin

Surfactant Surface active agent Degrease and emulsify oils and fat and suspends oil, allowing them to wash

away Used in most forms of cleaners Many gentle and effective on skin, some can be sensitizing, drying, and

irritating for skin if they are main ingredients in a cleanser

Roles of Ingredients in Cosmetics

Emulsifier Ingredient that keeps unlike ingredients from separating (like oil

and water) Fragrance

Volatile and fragrant plant oils (some are synthetic oils) that add odor to products

Often skin irritants Preservatives

Substance used to prevent bacterial and microbial contamination products

Provide risk of skin irritation, however using contaminated products can have much greater impact on the skin and eyes

Anti-inflammatory Ingredients that reduce signs of inflammation, swelling,

tenderness, pain, irritation, or redness

Arbonne vs. Clinique

For this presentation we will be comparing two cosmetics and skincare companies to see the difference in ingredients used

The companies are: Arbonne International, and Clinique

Business models and products will be examined

Arbonne 33 year-old cosmetics, skincare, and nutrition

company Botanically based products Vegan certified All products are made based on Swiss guidelines

Over 2500 chemicals used in American cosmetics are illegal in Switzerland

Products are paraben free Parabens have been found in breast cancer tumors

Marketing and Distribution

Arbonne sells products through network marketing Company employs independent consultants to inform

customers and sell products Products are manufactured and sent to customers

through online orders Advertising is done through catalogs, online webpage,

and by providing incentives to consultants

Clinique 46 year old company Company sells skincare

and cosmetic products Products are

hypoallergenic, fragrance free, and created based on dermatology principles

Available in 83 countries and territories

Marketing and Distribution Implementation of strong promotional

effort External, in-store, and website advertising

is used Promotions done through national ads,

magazines, and in-store marketing strategies

Products are purchased through upscale department sores, specialty retailers, perfumeries and pharmacies

Lesser distribution done though freestanding company stores and spas

Cover-up

MascaraFace Cleaner

Products investigated

Arbonne Face Cleanser extra-gentle, sulfate-free

cleanser Clinically tested for safety

and gentleness washes away makeup,

excess oil and dirt without irritating or over-drying the skin

Safe for daily use

Clinique Liquid Facial Soap

Soft, non-drying lather cleans gently, rinses easilyProtects skin's natural moisture balance so there's no taut or dry feeling.

IngredientsWater, Sodium Laureth SulfateSodium ChlorideCocamidopropyl HydroxysultaineLauramidopropyl BetaineSodium Cocoyl SarcosinateTea-Cocoyl GlutamateDi-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate (DMA)Aloe BarbadensisPEG120 Methyl Glucose DioleateSucroseSodium m HyaluronateCetyl Triethylmonium 

Dimethicone PEG-8 SuccinateTocopheryl Ethyl Succinate  Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Butylene GlycolChamomilla RecutitaHexylene GlycolPolyquaternium-7Laureth-2Caprylyl GlycolSodium SulfateEDTADisodium EDTASodium BenzoatePhenoxyethanol

Comparisons Clinique contains Sodium Laureth Sulfate

This is a chemical used in cleaning products and cosmetics to cause foaming (used in shampoos)

Depending on manufacturing process it can be contaminated with ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane which are human carcinogens

Sodium Laureth Sulfate is also an eye and respiratory tract irritant

Mascara creates the

appearance of longer-looking lashes

Clinique High Impact Mascara

Adds volume and length

Ingredients

Comparisons Some overlap between ingredients Two ingredients that are found in

Clinique products that are particularly harmful are butylated hydroxytoluene (BTH) and benzyl alcohol

BHT is found to be toxic in high doses and a tumor promoter (it can mimic estrogen in the body)

Benzyl alcohol is an eye and skin irritant. It’s presence in mascara can cause redness to the eyes

BTH

Benzyl alcohol

Cover-up multitasking10-in-1

Complexion Control botanicals soothe and

hydrate to protect skin’s moisture barrier4

lightweight coverage builds to conceal blemishes and dark spots, and minimizes the appearance of pores

Clinique Moisture Surge CC Cream

Lightweight formula instantly colour corrects a range of complexion concerns (redness, dullness, sallowness)

Leaves a healthy-looking glow

Oil-free and contains sunscreen

Active Ingredients Octinoxate Octisalate Titanium Dioxide Zinc Oxide Octyldodecyl neopentanoate

Comparisons Both companies contain skin conditioning agents.

Arbonne: Octyldodecyl myristate

Clinique: Octyldodecyl neopentanoate

Both chemicals are used as a sunscreen and have no harmful effects on humans.

Overall Comparisons Both Clinique and Arbonne produce high quality

cosmetics and skincare producs Prices of products are quite similar Marketing and product distribution is very different for

these two companies, although both companies seem to be benefiting from their respective systems and both have been around for decades

Arbonne has very accessible ingredient lists, making it more consumer friendly. Clinique’s lists were much harder to find

Although Clinique is hypoallergenic and fragrance free it still does contain ingredients that can be harmful and cause irritation

ReferencesDefinitions: http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition/anti-inflammatory

Arbonne: Arbonne ingredient policy:

https://www.arbonne.ca/products/index.asp http://www.arbonne.ca/company/opportunity/discover

_arbonne.asp#

Ingredients: https://thesourceca.arbonne.com/posts/591987 https://thesourceca.arbonne.com/posts/592056 https://thesourceca.arbonne.com/posts/673067 https://www.arbonne.ca/products/index.asp

Clinique:o Marketing Plan: http://

www2.econ.univpm.it/servizi/hpp/micozzi/documenti/Clinique_Marketing_Plan.pdf

o Ingredients:o http://

cosdna.com/eng/cosmetic_fabd110186.html

o http://cosdna.com/eng/cosmetic_651516203.html

o http://cosdna.com/eng/cosmetic_372347076.html