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CHAPTER-III
Growth of Handloom Industry
To represent the growth of Handloom Industry, the data of Handloom
Census of India have been widely used because the national handloom census
is such a source which comprises almost every indicator of growth and
provides comprehensive statistical information about handloom sector at the
national and state level.
The three rounds of handloom census ( 1987-1988, 1995-96 and 2009-
10) provides the broad details of three different decades, in which the
researcher found easy to compare the growth among decades to analyze the
scenario of pre and post reform. The duration of research topic started since
1981 but a proper handloom census initiated from 1987, therefore the analysis
followed from that year.
Handloom forms the second largest economic activity in India after
Agriculture. In regard to production, the industry is meeting one-third of the
total cloth requirements of the masses in the country and their products are
well known all over the world since long.
The Indian weavers are not only providing the enough cloth to meet
the internal demand but also exporting numerous artistic varieties to the highly
industrialized countries of the world.
The below Table 3.1 shows the committees, estimated the number of
handlooms in different years, and their estimation shows a positive and
enormous growth of the industry since 1921 to 1983.
40
Table: 3.1 Estimated Handlooms in India by Different Studies Year 1921 1932 1941 1954 1974 1983
Study
Census
Report
Tariff
Board
Report
Fact
Finding
Committee
Report
Tax
Enquiry
Committee
Report
Sivaraman
Committee
Report
Dev.Commissioner
for Handlooms
Estimated
Handlooms
12,60,409 15,15,450 17,90,957 28,70,000 35,73,364 38,20,000
Sources:-Compiled from:
Office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms ( Basic Statistics on
Handlooms Ministry of Industry, Government of India, New Delhi 1953, pp.1
High Powered study team on the problems of the handloom industry 1974, Ministry
of industry, Government of India, New Delhi 1975, pp.22.
Angadi, V.B., Economics of Handloom and power loom industries in Karnataka
state with special reference to Bijapur District Karnataka Uni. Darwar, 1976 pp.2
The growth of any industry encompasses many aspects like the
structure of industry, size of the industry, input, productivity and output. Thus,
this chapter tries to present all these variables to analyze the growth of the
handloom industry.
3.1 Organizational Structure of Handloom Weaving: Despite large-scale expansion of modern textile industry in India,
Handloom continues to occupy an important place in country's total economic
support. It is a household industry, all family members work as one unit; the
head of the household perform the manufacturing work, as where other
member of the family do the supporting or ancillary role, work and burden is
divided on the basis of age and sex.
In general the socio- economic condition forms the weavers to depend
upon external agencies for infrastructural facilities. Some of them work
independently some of them with organization and some seek outside support.
The organizational structure of the industry could be divided into four
segments. They are:
i. Independent weavers
ii. Master weavers
iii. Co-operative society
41
iv. Corporate sector
i. Independent or Individual Weavers:
Out of the total weaving population most of them are either
independent weavers or weavers who are working under master weavers
segment. Theoretically, an independent weaver perform all the function
relating to the cloth weaving alone that is, from purchasing of raw yarn and
dyes, arrangement of finance, weaving of cloth, to the marketing and finished
goods. In 2009-10, in the country independent workers account for 61.1 per
cent of the total work force and system whereby they procure the raw material
themselves and undertake the marketing of finished products. All the risks
associated with the business are borne by them. In most cases independent
workers have small operations the profit from which is also very small.
Independent workers are mostly found in the North Eastern state where a large
part of production is for domestic purpose; outside the North East the
proportion of independent workers is as small as 24.2 per cent of the total
handloom workforce.
ii. Master weaver:
A master weaver also refers as generic term to people who get the yarn
sized supply beams to smaller owner get the fabric woven and get the cloth
processed. This system of master weaver has evolved over years. In past
master weaver used to advance yarn to weavers working in their own houses,
in recent years many master weavers have set up common sheds for weaving
where hired weavers come and undertake production activities.
iii. Co-operative sector:
The cooperative structure in handloom sector is in two part, apex
society and primary society. The apex society is an umbrella body for primary
societies hence weavers are basically member of primary society.
The principal of cooperative as an instrument of economic and social reform
was propounded in some of the European countries over a century ago. The
first handloom weaver’s co-operative society in India was formed in 1905
after the passing of cooperative society act 1904.
42
Since then a number of weavers co-operative societies have been
grown in India, the co-operative movement in handloom industry was not
important prior to independence. The then British government discouraged the
growth and development of handloom industry by importing the cheap
machine made cloth from British to India.
It is after independence a new era of growth flourished in handloom
sector, the government of India recognized the importance of cottage
industries especially the handloom industry in the Indian economy. Mass
participation, social control, harnessing of local initiation and resources etc.
make cooperative ideal instruments to help achieve the overall policy
objective.
iv. Corporate sector:
Till the end of fourth five year plan, weavers were getting assistance
from cooperative sector only, weavers outside the cooperative fold were not
getting any direct benefit from implementation of different institutional
programs then it is felt that weavers outside co-operative fold should also
achieve appropriate assistance, that is why the Sivaraman Study Team
recommended the establishment of Handloom Development Corporations in
different states. The main aim and objective of corporations to promote, own,
establish and assist the rehabilitation. It is also undertaking other activities for
the benefit of weavers which include modernization of looms, planning of
production, payment of remunerative wages and technical training for
weavers.
Table: 3.2 Distributions of Workers under Structural Organization of
Handloom Sector in India Year Independent Under master
weavers
Under cooperative
society
Under State Handloom
Development Corporation
1987-88 1211425 344646 454989 47029
1995-96 988626 287654 241862 28915
2009-10 2351622 1038606 151267 18662
Source- compiled from:
Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88,Ministry of Textile,GOI. Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms, 1995-96,GOI, NCAER.
Handloom Census of India 2009-10, GOI, NCAER.
43
It is clear from the Table 3.2, that the major part of workforce are
weaving independently and after that, mostly prefer weaving under master
weavers, the role of cooperative and State Handloom Development
Corporation (NHDC) in giving employment to the weavers are not significant
and it is also highlighted from the figures that government organization are not
obtaining their aim and objectives and obviously weavers are not satisfied
with these institutions.
Table: 3.3 Distributions of Workers under Structural Organization
of Handloom Sector in Uttar Pradesh Year Independent Under master
weaver
Under cooperative
Societies
Under State Handloom
Development Corporation
1987-88 235033 16574 5575 6034
1995-96 154421 14572 6973 1452
2009-10 55331 159181 839 950
Source- compiled from:
Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88, Ministry of Textile,GOI. Joint Census of Handlooms & Power looms 1995-96, GOI, NCAER.
Handloom Census of India 2009-10, GOI, NCAER.
If we discuss about the Uttar Pradesh, in Table 3.3 shows that in 1987-
88 and 1995-96 majority of weavers were self employed but currently in 2009-
10 the condition has changed because mostly weavers are engaged with master
weavers.
3.2 Growth of Handloom Weaver Household Units: Handloom industry is decentralized, located both in rural and urban
areas in the country .Handloom weaving as an economic activity and consider
as a village and cottage industries. Handloom weaving today continues to be
dispersed and decentralized in nature. It is largely home-based, with labour
inputs from the entire family.
In the country around 53 per cent of the HH (weaver + allied worker
household) are into commercial production, and nearly 16 per cent households
undertake a mix of domestic and commercial production. Thus, a total of 69
per cent of the handloom households undertake commercial production. Table
3.4 presents the growth of weaver households units in India.
44
Table: 3.4 State-wise Distribution of Handloom Weaver Household Units
in India State-wise Distribution of Handloom weaver household units
States 1987-88 1995-96 2009-10
No. of Units No. of Units Growth (%age) No. of Units Growth (%age)
Andhra Pradesh 171660 143358 -16.49% 138260 -7.32%
Arunachal Pradesh 33875 23129 -31.72% 23144 0.06%
Assam 1223956 1095106 -10.53% 1096279 0.11%
Bihar 67187 52410 -21.99% 10172 -80.59%
Chattisgarh _ _ _ 2219 _
Gujarat 21353 16340 -23.48% 3076 -81.18%
Haryana 16961 4015 -76.33% 5420 34.99%
Himachal Pradesh 29069 39961 37.47% 6020 -84.94%
Jammu & Kashmir 17556 15825 -9.86% 6703 -57.64%
Jharkhand _ _ _ 8636 _
Karnataka 58218 50237 -13.71% 29429 -41.42%
Kerala 33571 24575 -26.80% 9562 -61.09%
Madhya Pradesh 35713 17501 -51.00% 5715 -67.34%
Maharashtra 51777 31020 -40.09% 1541 -95.03%
Manipur 192138 215801 12.32% 175977 -18.45%
Meghalaya 6399 _ _ 10800 _
Mizoram 79782 _ _ 38931 _
Nagaland 51029 41206 -19.25% 42579 3.33%
Orissa 86487 71885 -16.88% 33440 -53.48%
Punjab 7898 4533 -42.61% 821 -81.89%
Rajasthan 29848 27822 -6.79% 5818 -79.09%
Sikkim _ _ _ 534 _
Tamil Nadu 261309 197956 -24.24% 163290 -17.51%
Tripura 99857 85884 -13.99% 118708 38.22%
Uttar Pradesh 189517 140994 -25.60% 84455 -40.10%
Uttrakhand _ _ _ 5333 _
West Bengal 284207 219302 -22.84% 243811 11.18%
Goa 44 9 -79.55% _ _
Delhi 7385 2940 -60.19% 1293 -56.02%
Pondicherry 3294 2703 -17.94% 1442 -46.65%
Total (All India) 3060090 2524512 -17.50% 2268008 -10.16%
Source- Compiled from
: Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88, Ministry of Textile ,GOI.
Joint Census of Handlooms & Power looms 1995-96, GOI, NCAER.
Handloom Census of India 2009-10, GOI, NCAER.
45
The definition of handloom household (HH) is described in
introductory chapter. In India handloom sector is largely a household based
and carried out with labor contributed by whole family. These household
spread in rural areas as well as in urban areas of almost every state of the
country. Table 3.4 presents the growth of weaver households units in India.
In each stage of the production process, whether it is pre-loom processing,
weaving or finishing, every member of the household has a clear role to play.
In India handloom sector is largely a household based and carried out with
labor contributed by whole family, these household spread almost every state
of the country.
Currently, as per third census, in the country nearly 27.83 lacs handloom
households are involved in weaving and allied activities, out of which 87 per
cent are located in rural areas and rest 13 per cent in urban areas. Most of the
HH 22.68 lacs (82%) are weaver households, which means that at least one
member of every such household is engaged in weaving activities. Around 14
per cent allied worker households, 3 per cent are idle loom households and
about 1 per cent is other handloom households having no adult handloom
workers.
In the North-East, 90 per cent of the handloom worker households are
weaver households. The allied worker households are mostly found in the
states outside the region, and form 29 per cent of the total handloom worker
households in these states.
Figure: 3.1 Number of Handloom Weaver Household in India
The handloom census reveals the growth of weaver households in a
very extensive manner. As handloom census of India 1987-88, explained that
46
there were 30.6 lacs weaver household in the country out of which 26.3 lacs
were located in rural areas and remaining households were found in urban
areas. As the table 3.4 exhibits that in 1987-88, the state of Assam had
highest concentration of households in the country, around 40 percent of the
total households in this sector belong to Assam, next in order comes West
Bengal, Tamil Nadu, Manipur and Uttar Pradesh respectively in terms of
having higher number of household units.
As per Joint Census of Handloom & Power loom 1995-96, there were
25.24 lacs weaver household units were involved in weaving activity in the
country, of which 21.91 lacs Household were from rural areas and rest were
from urban areas. The state of Assam again occupied first rank in terms of
having highest numbers of weaver household units. In 1995-96 the negative
growth had noticed, and can be seen from the Table 3.4, that 17.50 percent
decreases in Household units was found from 1987-88, only two states namely
Himachal Pradesh and Manipur reported positive growth out of twenty five
state.
The handloom census of 2009-10 reveals that in the country total
number of handloom household (weaver household, allied worker household,
idle loom households and household with no adult worker) is found 27.83 lacs.
Among total handloom household there are 22.68 lacs weaver households are
engaged in weaving job. Census also clears that of which, 19.85 lacs (87.53%)
are located in rural areas and 2.82 lacs (12.47%) in urban areas. This figure
indicates that handloom industry is solely a village industry and provides job
to mainly rural poor. This data proves that handloom sector is still a livelihood
source of millions of rural people of the country.
As far as the growth is concerned in 2009-10, the negative growth has
been captured, as shown in the table 3.4. and the figure 3.1 also shows that
since 1987 to 1995 the weaver household had reduced by 5.36 lacs. While
from second census to third census these units have decreased by 2.56 lacs.
If we discuss about type of HH by ownership of looms, there are two types:-
i. With loom households- Households that have looms in their premises.
47
ii. Without loom household- Households that do not have any loom within
their premises.
In the year of 1987-88, nearly 90% household had looms which may or
may are not be owned by them but in case of non ownership of looms these
were placed in their houses by master weaver, cooperative society or private
owners.
In 1995-96 the household with looms increased by 5% and in 2009-10
there were 66.5% total worker households have looms and nearly 33 percent
had not looms. The household without looms are either engaged in hired
weaving activities or these household undertake allied work and it is also
noticed that higher proportion of without loom household lived in urban areas.
In India average Handloom Household size is 4.59, the average number of
workers per HH is 1.56, and the work participation rate being 33.9 per cent.
Growth of Handloom Weaver Households in Uttar Pradesh:
In the state of Uttar Pradesh, Households is found in almost every
district, and scattered in rural as well as in urban areas of this state. As per the
handloom census 1987-88, in Uttar Pradesh there were 1.89 lacs handloom
weaver household units of which, 0.62 lac (32.93%) found in urban areas
while 1.27 lac (67.06%) noticed in rural areas.
The joint census of handloom & power loom in 1995-96 confirmed
that since 1987 to 1995 in Uttar Pradesh 25.60 percent negative growth was
noticed in terms of number of units. The total number of weaver household
were 1.4 lac, of which 1.02 lac (72.78%) household were concentrated in rural
areas and rest 0.38 lac (27.22%) were found in urban areas.
In 1995-96, in the state of Uttar Pradesh, the highest concentration of
these household was found in Varanasi district (36234) followed by Bijnore
(10395) and Barabanki (8236). The Table 3.5 exhibits about the state of Uttar
Pradesh, that in 2009-10, the reduction is found in number of weavers
households, there were 0.84 lac weaver households, of which 0.49 lac
(58.47%) were belong to rural areas and rest 0.35 lac(41.52%) were found in
urban areas.
48
Table: 3.5 District-wise Distribution of Handloom Weaver Household
Units in Uttar Pradesh District wise distribution of handloom weaver household Units in Uttar Pradesh
1995-96 2009-10 Growth (% age)
AGRA 1201 104 -91.34%
ALIGARH 3147 64 -97.97%
ALLAHABAD 366 _ _
AMBEDKAR NAGAR 413 549 32.93%
AZAMGARH 6974 9878 41.64%
BAGHPAT _ 2593 _
BAHRAICH 28 _ _
BALIA 647 _ _
BANDA 118 _ _
BARABANKI 8236 4927 -40.18%
BAREILY 1086 610 -48.83%
BASTI 5001 _ _
BHADOHI 180 _ _
BIJNORE 10395 757 -92.72%
BADUAN 385 _ _
BULANDSHAHAR 2636 504 -80.88%
CHANDAULI _ 4151 _
DEWARIA 218 _ _
ETAH 1780 _ _
ETAWAH 1069 739 -30.87%
FAIZABAD 18 _ _
FARUKKHABAD 352 47 -86.65%
FATEHPUR 361 6 -98.34%
FIROZABAD 152 32 -78.95%
GHAZIPUR 3152 88 -97.21%
GAUTAM BUDH NAGAR _ 21 _
GHAZIABAD 1399 202 -85.56%
GORAKHPUR 2975 861 -71.06%
GONDA 51 _ _
HAMIRPUR 553 24 -95.66%
HARDOI 2047 317 -84.51%
HATHRAS _ 516 _
JALAUN 607 285 -53.05%
JAUNPUR 707 17 -97.60%
JHANSI 1005 1,708 69.95%
KANPUR DEHAT 313 69 -77.96%
KANPUR NAGAR 719 2123 195.27%
KHERI 212 20 -90.57%
49
LALITPUR 226 118 -47.79%
LUCKNOW 163 _ _
MAHRAJGANJ 100 41 -59.00%
MAHOBA 547 _ _
MAINPURI 96 39 -59.38%
MATHURA 1383 5 -99.64%
MAU 3500 845 -75.86%
MEERUT 3221 1,058 -67.15%
MIRZAPUR 5906 2,263 -61.68%
MORADABAD 8737 12599 44.20%
MUZAFFAR NAGAR 2946 391 -86.73%
PADRAUNA 90 _ _
PILIBHIT 430 1,144 166.05%
PRATAPGARH 742 5 -99.33%
RAE BARELY 228 55 -75.88%
RAMPUR 2972 226 -92.40%
SAHARANPUR 1251 _ _
SANT KABIR NAGAR _ 427 _
SANT RAVIDAS NAGAR _ 22 _
SHAHJAHAN PUR 81 _ _
SIDDHART NAGAR 1023 1 -99.90%
SITAPUR 5498 3,148 -42.74%
SONBHADRA 176 _ _
SULTANPUR 1005 _ _
UNNAO 1144 607 -46.94%
VARANASI 36234 30249 -16.52%
TOTAL 136202* 84455 -38%
Source: - Compiled from:
Report of planning commission, vol.2, Uttar Pradesh 1995-96.
Handloom Census of India 2009-10, Ministry of Textile, GOI,NCAER.
*the total value of the weaver household 1995-96,(data derived from planning
commission) is bit differ from the handloom census report 1995-96 .The entire
analysis in this study is mainly based on national handloom census reports, as
mentioned earlier.
From 1995-96 to 2009-10, the decline was found -40.10 percent
during 1995-96 to 2009-10, the figure 3.2 presenting the declining picture of
handloom weaver household in Uttar Pradesh, while the district wise table
reveals that in 2009-10 in U.P., few districts like Moradabad, Pilibhit,
Maharajganj, Kanpur Nagar, Jhansi, Etawah, Azamgarh and Ambedkar Nagar
50
reported positive growth. In other words, among 36 districts only 8 districts
have shown the positive growth of handloom weavers units.
Figure:3.2 Number of Handloom Weaver Household units in U.P.
The researcher found many relevant issues which are the causes of
reducing weaver households in the country as well as in Uttar Pradesh. The
major causes are:
Handloom workers are shifting in to other jobs, which is due to severe
competition from the power loom. Apart from this issue, the other reason is
globalization, because with the coming of economic liberalization in 1991, the
govt. policy towards these type of industries have changed and since 1998
subsidies have started to decrease and purchases of handloom products by
govt. corporations have also fallen.
In the case of Uttar Pradesh the other factor is also very responsible for
the diminishing of handloom households, that is closure of Janta dhoti scheme.
During the period 1980-1994 the scheme of Janta dhoti was in operation at
that time, the state govt. organized the supply of adequate quantity of yarn to
the handloom cooperative society and the weavers, the yarn was directly
supplied by Uttar Pradesh State Textile Corporation (UPSTC), U.P.
cooperative spinning mills, under control of state government through U.P.
handloom corporation and Uttar Pradesh Industrial Co-operative Associates
Ltd. (UPICA) and a subsidy of 20% was provided by the central govt., that
was the golden era for handloom weavers in U.P.
During the process of globalization and liberalization of the industry,
most of the subsidy were withdrawn including janta dhoti scheme, due to
which most of the skilled master weavers shifted to different jobs and
migrated to other textile centers, and it was the turning point of the handloom
industry where the activity started diminishing.
51
3.3 Growth of Handlooms or Looms: Handloom is a machine that is used for weaving thread into cloth and it is operated by hands. It is the basic infrastructure of the
handloom industry and in every state of India the existence of looms is maintained from the past.
In the country the expansion of looms are estimated by many reports (table 3.1) such as in 1921, the number of estimated looms
were 12.6 lacs in India, further tax enquiry committee report estimated in 1954 there were 28.7 lacs handlooms found and
according to another govt. report that in the year of 1983, total number of looms were 38.2 lacs. Till 1983, the numbers of looms
were increasing, but if we go through from national handloom census reports (1987-88 to 2009-10), we found the following
statistics about the growth of looms.
Table: 3.6 State-wise Distributions of Handloom Household & Non Household Looms and their Working Status State wise Distribution of HH & Non HH Looms and their working status
1987-88 1995-96 2009-10
Sr.
No. States Working Idle Total Working Idle Total
Growth
rate
(%age) Working Idle Total
Growth
rate
(%age)
1 Andhra Pradesh 213404 6311 219715 183093 19007 202100 -8.02% 117745 6969 124714 -38.29%
2
Arunachal
Pradesh 45060 456 45516 35626 3966 39592 -13.02% 21403 5883 27286 -31.08%
3 Assam 1298731 110437 1409168 1199878 122178 1322056 -6.18% 982672 128905 1111577 -15.92%
4 Bihar 72965 9692 82657 40532 5688 46220 -44.08% 8501 6472 14973 -67.60%
5 Chhattisgarh _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 2324 147 2471 _
6 Gujarat 21165 1408 22573 17387 3163 20550 -8.96% 3584 316 3900 -81.02%
7 Haryana 17378 2894 20272 17398 5320 22718 12.07% 4019 857 4876 -78.54%
8 Himachal Pradesh 30991 373 31364 46876 755 47631 51.87% 5425 153 5578 -88.29%
9
Jammu &
Kashmir 25253 19 25272 16595 1559 18154 -28.17% 7166 135 7301 -59.78%
52
10 Jharkhand _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 1891 237 2128 _
11 Karnataka 76719 4866 81585 60344 10491 70835 -13.18% 34606 5882 40488 -42.84%
12 Kerala 41904 9725 51629 38060 11448 49508 -4.11% 8826 4271 13097 -73.55%
13 Madhya Pradesh 31380 16051 47431 17788 4748 22536 -52.49% 3394 210 3604 -84.01%
14 Maharashtra 66437 1205 67642 35542 4358 39900 -41.01% 3251 1260 4511 -88.69%
15 Manipur 266915 3346 270261 267470 14026 281496 4.16% 186707 3931 190634 -32.28%
16 Meghalaya 7783 418 8201 _ _ _ _ 8348 619 8967 _
17 Mizoram 94388 9406 103794 _ _ _ _ 23467 669 24136 _
18 Nagaland 71636 5867 77503 83305 4573 87878 13.39% 44601 3087 47688 -45.73%
19 Orissa 92316 26689 119005 78667 14202 92869 -21.96% 38637 5015 43652 -53.00%
20 Punjab 11292 936 12228 5460 1096 6556 -46.39% 261 0 261 -96.02%
21 Rajasthan 31694 1562 33256 30336 4007 34343 3.27% 5065 338 5403 -84.27%
22 Sikkim _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 305 40 345 _
23 Tamil Nadu 402046 26499 428545 360474 52700 413174 -3.59% 149442 5067 154509 -62.60%
24 Tripura 116659 2413 119072 116078 1714 117792 -1.07% 133132 5879 139011 18.01%
25 Uttar Pradesh 243675 17039 260714 157666 31904 189570 -27.29% 76174 4121 80295 -57.64%
26 Uttrakhand _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 3545 221 3766 _
27 West Bengal 318514 19985 338499 319807 30847 350654 3.59% 268068 39761 307829 -12.21%
28 Goa 41 54 95 14 29 43 -54.74% _ _ _ _
29 Delhi 8326 1010 9336 5818 1209 7027 -24.73% 2184 376 2560 -63.57%
30 Pondicherry 4841 402 5243 2924 182 3106 -40.76% 1693 78 1771 -42.98%
31
India(Total)*
3611513 279063 3890576 3137138 3491710 3486308 -10.39% 2146436 230899 2377331 -31.81%
93% 7% 100% 90% 10% 100% - 90% 10% 100% -
Source- compiled from:
Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88, Ministry of Textile, GOI. Joint Census of Handlooms & Powe rlooms 1995-96,GOI, NCAER Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI, NCAER.
53
Figure 3.3 Number of Handloom Household & Non Household Looms in
India
According to first national level census of handloom, in 1987-88
there were 38.9 lacs handlooms in the country out of which 2 lacs involved
with NHH units and rest 36.9 lacs looms were household looms. The state of
Assam, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal were top three states respectively, where
maximum numbers of looms were found. The lowest number of looms was
found in Union Territories. Among total number of looms in 1987-88 nearly
36.11 lacs (93%) were functioning while 2.7 lacs (7%) were lying idle, as
observed from the Table 3.6.
Figure: 3.4-3.5 Number of Working and Idle Looms in Handloom
Household & Non Household Units in India in 1987-88 & 1995-96.
Figure:3.4 Figure:3.5
54
The functioning or working looms was defined as “a complete loom
that has been operated at least for one day during the last one year or is at
present working”. The idle loom was defined as “a complete loom that has not
been used for even a single day during last one year”. Among total number of
working loom in 1987-88, 57 per cent handlooms were used for commercial
purpose and rest of 43 per cent were domestic. The Table 3.6 exhibits that
highest number of looms were noticed in Assam (36.22%) but there, the
weaving is undertaken for domestic purpose.
As per joint census of handloom & power loom 1995-96 in the
country, there were 34.8 lacs looms found in HH and Non-HH, of which 90%
looms were in working order and remaining 10% were in idle condition, as
compared to 1987-88 the number of idle looms had increased by 3% (figure
3.5). In 1995-96 Assam, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal were again the top
three states respectively where the concentration of looms was higher than
other states. It is found that among 24 states Haryana, West Bengal, Manipur,
Nagaland and Rajasthan were showing positive growth in terms of number of
looms.
In 2009-10 the data of handloom census of India reveals that 23.7
Lacs looms in both HH and NHH were found out of which 90% were
functioning while 10% were idle, shown in below Figure 3.6. Assam, West
Bengal and Manipur were such three states respectively where the highest
concentrations of looms have found. While only Tripura was showing the
positive growth among 23 states of the country (table 3.6).
Figure: 3.6 Number of Working and Idle Looms in Handloom
Household & Non Household Units in 2009-10 in India
55
Usage of Looms:
As far as their usage is concerned, the census reports categorized usage of
looms as follows:
i. Working domestic looms are those working looms, which are used for
non-commercial purposes such as making fabrics for domestic
consumption.
ii. Working Commercial looms are those types of looms, which are used
for an occupational purpose or those looms make fabric for market
consumption.
iii. Both commercial and domestic (working) looms are those looms
which make fabric for both domestic and market consumption. This
type is categorized recently by third handloom census (2009-10).
Table: 3.7 Distribution of Working looms by purpose of Usage in India
Number of Working Commercial and Domestic looms (India)
Commercial Domestic Both Commercial & Domestic Total
1986-87 2056927 1554586 _
3611513 56.95% 43.05% _
1995-96 1364187 1772951 _
3137138 43.49% 56.51% _
2009-10 625069 893872 572210
2091151 29.89% 42.75% 27.36%
Source- compiled from: Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88, Ministry of Textile, GOI Joint Census of Handlooms & Power looms 1995-96, GOI, NCAER. Handloom Census of India 2009-10, GOI, NCAER.
The figure 3.7 and table 3.7 presents the usage of looms in India, here
looms are used for both purposes, but the North States of the country, which
account for the highest proportion of HH looms, also have the lowest
proportion in commercial use. In other states, the looms are largely used for
commercial purposes.
56
Figure : 3.7 Working looms by purpose of Usage in India
Growth of Looms in Uttar Pradesh According to the census of handloom, in the year of 1987-88, the total
numbers of looms were 2.6 lacs in Uttar Pradesh. In 1995-96, there were 1.8
lacs looms, while in 2009-10, the total number of looms was found 0.8 lac, it
has shown in the figure 3.8. Although, in almost every district of the state the
looms have noticed but a drastic drop has found in the number of looms during
1987-88 to 2009-10, the following figure is representing the declining trend of
looms in Uttar Pradesh.
Figure: 3.8 Number of Handloom Household & Non Household
Looms in Uttar Pradesh
57
Table: 3.8 District wise Distribution of Household Looms in Uttar
Pradesh
District wise Distribution of household looms in Uttar Pradesh District 1995-96 2009-10
Working Idle Total Working Idle Total Growth (%age)
AGRA 1643 28 1671 40 10 50 -97.01%
ALIGARH 3269 472 3741 62 15 77 -97.94%
ALLAHABAD 184 313 497 _ _ _ _
AMBEDKAR NAGAR 139 256 395 514 3 517 30.89%
AZAMGARH 8747 432 9179 10490 536 11026 20.12%
BADAUN 389 4 393 _ _ _ _
BAGHPAT - _ _ 1138 283 1421 _
BAHRAICH 21 3 24 _ _ _ _
BALIA 522 162 684 _ _ _ _
BANDA 22 104 126 _ _ _ _
BARABANKI 9192 731 9923 4971 72 5043 -49.18%
BAREILY 1116 25 1141 486 93 579 -49.26%
BASTI 2393 2992 5385 _ _ _ _
BHAODHI 297 22 319 _ _ _ _
BIJNOR 9435 1351 10786 176 0 176 -98.37%
BULANDSHAHAR 1517 673 2190 224 13 237 -89.18%
CHANDAULI _ _ _ 2897 315 3212 _
DEVARIA 6 312 318 _ _ _ _
ETAWAH 1018 173 1191 458 4 462 -61.21%
ETAH 1844 324 2168 _ _ - _
FAIZABAD 1 4 5 _ _ _ _
FARUKKHABAD 190 185 375 34 0 34 -90.93%
FATEHPUR 87 170 257 2 0 2 -99.22%
FIROZABAD 143 23 166 3 0 3 -98.19%
GHAZIPUR 3452 380 3832 83 3 86 -97.76% GAUTAM BUDH
NAGAR _ _ _ _ _ _ _
GHAZIABAD 1638 168 1806 36 0 36 -98.01%
GONDA 44 10 54 _ _ _ _
GORAKHPUR 1180 5597 6777 628 24 652 -90.38%
HAMIRPUR 506 5 511 19 0 19 -96.28%
HARDOI 2576 92 2668 275 24 299 -88.79%
HATHRAS NA _ _ 57 19 76 _
JALAUN 676 29 705 131 0 131 -81.42%
JAUNPUR 689 110 799 3 0 3 -99.62%
JHANSI 888 239 1127 1358 181 1539 36.56%
KANPUR DEHAT 296 24 320 66 3 69 -78.44%
KANPUR NAGAR 1036 263 1299 898 152 1050 -19.17%
KHERI 210 33 243 27 0 27 -88.89%
LALITPUR 310 44 354 32 0 32 -90.96%
58
LUCKNOW 223 13 236 _ _ _ _
MAHOBA 472 74 546 _ _ _ _
MAHRAJGANJ 0 45 45 11 0 11 -75.56%
MAINPURI 94 15 109 19 0 19 -82.57%
MATHURA 1461 68 1529 3 0 3 -99.80%
MAU 3951 253 4204 877 35 912 -78.31%
MEERUT 3359 491 3850 314 15 329 -91.45%
MIRZAPUR 6160 1670 7830 1282 127 1409 -82.01%
MORADABAD 6182 1588 7770 12744 105 12849 65.37%
MUZAFFAR NAGAR 3219 702 3921 103 4 107 -97.27%
PADRAUNA 2 81 83 _ _ _ _
PILIBHIT 305 200 505 1319 106 1425 182.18%
PRATAPGARH 650 71 721 _ _ _ _
RAE BARELY 245 3 248 _ _ _ _
RAMPUR 3411 288 3699 228 2 230 -93.78%
SAHARANPUR 1226 51 1277 _ _ - _ SANT KABIR
NAGAR _ _ _ 115 5 120 _ SANT RAVIDAS
NAGAR _ _ _ 7 0 7 _
SHAHJAHAN PUR 81 0 81 _ _ _ _
SIDDHART 538 562 1100 _ _ _ _
SITAPUR 5405 1049 6454 1475 59 1534 -76.23%
SONBHADRA 165 5 170 _ _ _ _
SULTAN PUR 1020 55 1075 _ _ _ _
UNNAO 956 614 1570 265 71 336 -78.60%
VARANASI 51690 6058 57748 29939 1439 31378 -45.66%
TOTAL
146491 29709 176200 73809 3718 77527 -56%
83.14% 16.86
% 100% 95.3% 4.7% 100% - Source: -Compiled from:
Report of planning commission, vol.2, Uttar Pradesh,1995-96.
Handloom Census of India, Ministry of Textile,GOI,2009-10.
As the table 3.8 describes that only 4 districts namely Ambedkar
Nagar, Azamgarh, Moradabad and Pilibhit are showing positive growth in
terms of household looms, while the highest number of household looms
found in district Varanasi. Among total household looms 83.14% were
functioning and rest 16.86% looms were found idle in 1995-96. While in
2009-10, the number of working looms was increased. In this year 95.3% were
working and 4.7% were found idle.(figure 3.9& 3.10).
As table 3.8 highlights that since 1995 to 2009-10 the negative growth is
found in 33 districts, the major reduction has found in Agra, Aligarh, Bijnore,
59
Bulandshahar, Farrukkhabad, Fatehpur, Firozabad, Ghaziabad, Ghazipur,
Gorakhpur, Hamirpur, Hardoi, Jalaun, Jaunpur, Mainpuri, Mathura,
Muzaffarnagar and Rampur. These districts are mostly belong to western Uttar
Pradesh and if we discuss about increasing looms, only Ambedkar Nagar,
Azamgarh, Moradabad and Pilibhit districts reported positive growth in terms
of having looms
Figure : 3.9 & 3.10 Number of Looms by Working Status in Uttar
Pradesh
Table: 3.9 Distribution of Working Looms by Purpose of Usage
Number of (Working) Commercial and Domestic looms (Uttar Pradesh)
Commercial Domestic Both Commercial and Domestic Total
1987-88 236751 6924 _
243675 97.16% 2.84% _
1995-96 123085 34781 _
157866 77.97% 22.03% _
2009-10 69886 2316 1607
73809 94.68% 3.14% 2.18%
Source- compiled from:
Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88, Ministry of Textile, GOI. Joint Census of Handlooms & Power looms 1995-96, GOI, NCAER.
Handloom Census of India 2009-10, GOI, NCAER.
The table 3.6 shows that in 1987-88 total numbers of looms were 2.6
lacs in Uttar Pradesh of which, 93.5 percent loom were functioning. Among
functioning looms, 97 per cent were used for commercial purpose where as
60
only 3 percent were domestic looms, this data clearly indicate that in Uttar
Pradesh, looms are mainly used for commercial purpose.
In the state of Uttar Pradesh 97.2 percent looms were found in HH units while
2.8 percent were involved with Non-HH.
As per the handloom census of India 1995-96 there were 1.8 lacs
looms in HH and NHH units, 83 percent were in function and rest 17 percent
were idle, and among in working looms 78 percent were commercial looms
and 22 percent were weaving for domestic needs, surprisingly the number of
domestic looms have increased from 3 percent to 22 percent.
In census report of 2009-10, there were 80.2 thousand looms were captured
and around 95 percent were in working order observed from the Figure 3.8.
The table 3.9 shows that in U.P. in 2009-10 fully Domestic looms are 3.1
percent, looms for commercial purposes are 94.6% and rest 2.1% are for (both
commercial & domestic) purposes.
The district wise table of Uttar Pradesh describes that Varanasi,
Bijnore and Barabanki district respectively have the higher number of looms
in 1995-96 and if we discuss about the current figure Varanasi district again
occupied the first rank in terms of having highest number of looms but the
quantity of looms have decreased from 57748 to 31378 during 1995-96 to
2009-10 in Varanasi. Next in order comes district Moradabad and Azamgarh,
both districts are showing positive growth in number of looms.
The following figure is showing the declining picture of the looms and
also the usage of working looms in the handloom sector in Uttar Pradesh.
Figure: 3.11 Working Looms by Purpose of Usage
61
The total numbers of looms in Uttar Pradesh have reduced from 2.6
lacs to 80 thousands during 1995-96 to 2009-10, it is a drastic drop found in
number of looms, as the Figure 3.8 presented. The share of commercial looms
is higher than domestic looms. Here more than 90% looms are being used for
Commercial purpose observed from above figures.
It is clear from both Figure 3.3 and Figure 3.8 (Presenting the declining
trend in looms in India and the state of Uttar Pradesh) the number of looms
have declined. The decreasing looms are the consequence of many factors; the
major factor is the competition from power loom sector.
The power looms which recorded an unprecedented increase from 1.5 lacs in
1963 to 3.09 lacs in 1975, the growth of power loom sector can be seen from
the table 3.10.
Table: 3.10 Growth of Power looms in India YEAR NO. OF POWERLOOM
2002-2003 16,92737
2003-2004 1836856
2004-2005 1902953
2005-06 1943892
2006-07 1990308
2007-08 2106370
2008-09 2205352
2009-10 2246474
2010-11(UP TO 31.10.2010) 2269469
Source:
Annual Report of Textile Industry, Ministry of Textiles
The direct impact of the power loom growth on the handlooms can be
gauged from the assessment of the high powered committee of the planning
commission headed by Sivaraman. According to which the addition of one
power loom resulted in the displacement of six handlooms.
The weavers also started switching their job from handloom to power
loom due to low income level, and it is also a fact that their children are not
interested to continue their traditional occupation, resulted the number of
looms are reducing day by day.
Type of Looms:
As far as types of looms are concerned, the following type of looms is
found in India-
62
Pit looms:
A pit looms is one where the weaver sits in a pit and operates the loom
and loom itself is fitted in to the pit, the pedals for working the shedding
motion (tana) are placed in the pit. There are many types of pit looms and it is
very conventional and old designed type of loom.
The table 3.11 depicts about the type of loom that in 1987-88, in the
country 40 percent looms were pit loom in both HH and NHH. While in 1995-
96 there was 38 percent pit looms noticed in the country and the data of 2009-
10 presents that in India, the number of pit looms have decreased and only 25
percent pit handlooms have seen.
Table : 3.11 Distribution of Looms by Type Distribution of Looms by type (India)
Pit Looms(All
types)
Frame loom (All
types)
Pedal Loom (All
types) Other Looms
Total
Looms
1987-88* 1583655 1120804 80595 1105522
3890576 40.70% 28.81% 2.07% 28.42%
1995-96** 1236391 657583 110618 1283964
3288556 37.60% 20.00% 3.36% 39.04%
2009-10** 570860 1342870 32619 349281
2295630 24.87% 58.50% 1.42% 15.22%
Distribution of Looms by type (Uttar Pradesh)
Pit Looms(All
types)
Frame loom (All
types)
Pedal Loom (All
types) Other Looms
Total
Looms
1987-88* 217747 26882 6951 9134
260714 83.52% 10.31% 2.67% 3.50%
1995-96** 87708 12429 6456 76465
183058 47.91% 6.79% 3.53% 41.77%
2009 -10** 73694 3179 347 307
77527 95.06% 4.10% 0.45% 0.40%
Source- compiled from:
Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88,Ministry of Textile,GOI. Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER.
Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.
*Data related to HH & NHH looms,**data related to only HH looms
Frame looms:
An ordinary frame loom is fitted into a frame above the ground, this
loom can be fitted with either a dobby or a jacquard for making embroidery in
63
the fabric, this type of loom is less expensive and a more compact alternative
to a table or floor loom, it is also very versatile in nature and can make many
kinds of fabrics faster than pit looms.
According to census of handlooms in 1987-88, in India 29 percent
frame looms were operating but as per joint census of handloom & power
loom in 1995-96, the number of frame looms have reduced by 19 percent in
this year, 20 percent frame looms was in existed in HH units and further as per
IIIrd handloom census (2009-10), frame looms were found in highest number
(58.5 percent) among all type of looms.
Pedal looms:
This type of looms is semi- automatic looms, with the only activity
manual being the shedding motion (tana) with the use of the pedal. The other
motions of weaving including the picking (bana) and the beating motion are
done automatically. The loom itself almost looks like a power loom with the
metallic frame and production is much faster as compared to other kinds of
handlooms. Pedal looms were only 2 percent in the country in the year of
1987-88, mainly it was found in the state of Assam and West Bengal while in
1995-96 it was noticed that there were 3.4 percent pedal looms in India but in
2009-10 only 1.4 percent pedal looms are left.
Other looms-
Majorly pit, frame and pedal looms are found in India but other looms
are also in existence like loin loom which is largely found in North Eastern
states of the country, shawls, chaddars wall hangings and small durries are
woven by this type of looms the another type is semi- automatic, Chittaranjan
looms, Inchakaranji looms and modernized Malabar looms etc.
If we discuss about the change adopted in types of looms, the
conventional and oldest type pit loom usage has decreased in every census
survey report in the country, as exhibited in the Table 3.11. It may be said in
the context of India that change has adopted in technology but not as it was
needed, in most of the state technological backwardness is prevailing. Thus,
handloom sector is still considered as technically poor industry.
64
If we see the loom pattern in Uttar Pradesh it could be noticed from
table 3.11 that pit loom was widely used (83.5%) in 1987-88 only 10 percent
frame looms were found and the pedal looms were 2.7 percent. In 1995-96, pit
loom were 48%, pedal looms were only 3.5 percent while frame loom were
noticed 6.8 percent and other type of looms were about 42 percent. But if we
see the data of 2009-10 that in the HH units mostly pit looms (95%) were
found and 4 percent frame looms were noticed in handloom household.
In the case of Uttar Pradesh the change has not adopted in loom pattern
from 1987-88, still weavers are weaving on pit loom as it is described that this
method is very conventional, old type designed and productivity of this loom
is also very low. In the primary survey of few districts in Uttar Pradesh, the
researcher noticed in weavers household that they are very reluctant to adopt
appropriate technology because of belief in their traditional techniques of
looms.
3.4 Growth of Handloom Production: In the country, total textile sector contributes about 14% to industrial
production, 4% to the GDP, and 17% to the country’s export earnings. Every
sector of textile industry is contributing a significant role in total textile
production. Table 3.12 presents the sector wise growth of textile production.
Table: 3.12 Sector-wise Production of Textile in India
Total Textile Production Sector wise (Million Sqr. Mtrs.)
Mill Handloom Power loom Hosiery Total
1980-81
4533 3109 4802 _
12444 36.43% 24.98% 38.59% _
1987-88
3178 4370 10429 _
17977 17.68% 24.31% 58.01% _
1995-96
2019 7202 17201 5038
31460 6.42% 22.89% 54.68% 16.01%
2010-2011
2208 6903 37517 14372
61000 3.62% 11.32% 61.50% 23.56% Source:
Ministry of Textile,GOI -
65
Figure 3.12 - 3.15 Sector wise Production of Textile in India
Figure 3.12 Figure 3.13
Figure 3.14 Figure 3.15
If we compare the contribution of every sector in total cloth
production, we see in above Table 3.12 that every sector is playing important
role in total textile production. In 1980-81 the country’s one fourth production
was coming from handloom; the highest contribution was coming from Power
loom sector. The share of Power loom was increased from 39 percent to 61
percent during 1981 to 2011-12, hosiery sector also contributes a major role
and its production is also increased, while mill sector is drastically
diminishing.
Despite the above condition the potential of handloom is still
significant. Handloom sector plays a very significant role in the country's
66
economy this sector contributes nearly 11.5% of the total cloth produced in the
country and also adds substantially to export earning, this sector is
unparalleled in its flexibility and versatility permitting experimentation and
encouraging innovations. The strength of handloom lies in the introducing
innovative designs, which cannot be replicated by the power loom sector.
Thus handloom forms a part of the heritage of India & exemplifies the
richness & diversity of our country and the artistry of the weavers. If the
handloom has survived it is because of its highest elastic range of adaption in
meeting communities’ needs and its ability to produce exquisite fabrics which
mills cannot produce in spite of all their sophisticated technologies. The
handloom weaving is practiced in many different regions and each area has its
own particulars style using traditional designs and motifs.
Handloom producing a lots of variety as follows dhoti, sari, towel,
napkin, bed sheet, sarong, furnishing, gamchas/ angavastram, lungi, shirtings,
suiting, dress materials, long cloth, shawls, loi, blanket, duster, durries,
bandage, mekhla, chaddar, etc. the below table highlighted, the total textile
production as well as the share of handloom sector.
The growth of production has shown in table 3.13 since 1981 up to
2011-12 (Apr - Mar). It is clear from the data that in the age of liberalization
and globalization, handloom industry which is a village and cottage industry
still contributing a important share in the total textile production (table.3.13)
Although the production of handloom has increase but the share in total
production is reduced year by year and the percentage growth is found
negative of handloom sector.
P.T.O
67
Table: 3.13 Handloom Productions in India since 1981 to 2011-12
Handloom productions in India since 1981 (in million meters)
Year
Production of handloom
Total Textile Production (In figures) (In %)
1980-81 3109 25% 12444
1981-82 3046 25% 12308
1982-83 3234 28% 11685
1983-84 3429 26% 13109
1984-85 3639 27% 13548
1985-86 4135 24% 17213
1986-87 4305 24% 17937
1987-88 4370 24% 17977
1988-89 3993 20% 20018
1989-90 3924 19% 20598
1990-91 4295 19% 22928
1991-92 4123 18% 22588
1992-93 5219 21% 25045
1993-94 5851 21% 27472
1994-95 6180 22% 28175
1995-96 7202 23% 31460
1996-97 7457 22% 34298
1997-98 7604 21% 36896
1998-99 6792 19% 35543
1999-2000 7353 19% 38626
2000-01 7472 19% 40333
2001-02 7585 18% 41390
2002-03 5989 14% 41462
2003-04 5581 13% 42933
2004-05 5705 13% 44991
2005-06 6108 13% 48826
2006-07 6535 12% 52689
2007-08 6947 13% 55276
2008-09 6677 12% 54198
2009-10 6769 11% 58996
2010-11 (Apr-March) 6903 11% 60999
2011-12(Apr-March) 6930 11% 60566
Source:
Ministry of Textile,GOI
68
Figure: 3.16 Comparison of Handloom Production & Total Textile
Production in India
The share of handloom production in total textile was 24.98%
in 1981 and currently in the year of 2011-12 (Apr-March) it is noticed 11.44%
.Since 1981 to 2011-12 the production of handloom share in total textile
production has decreased by 50% where the total production of textile sector is
increasing and since 1981 to 2011-12, in only four year the production has
decreased in a minor way. The figure 3.16 shows that the total textile
production is growing, while, handloom sector is showing a stable trend in
production performance.
Regarding handloom production, in U.P. the handloom census data shows
the average monthly production which is presented in the below table 3.14.
Table: 3.14 Average Monthly Productions of Handloom Fabrics in Uttar
Pradesh Monthly Production of Handloom textiles (In meters)
Year 1987-88 1995-96
Uttar Pradesh 61307229 29718570
Source- compiled from:
Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88, Ministry of Textile,GOI.
Joint Census of Handlooms & Power looms 1995-96,NCAER
69
Figure 3.17 Average Monthly Productions of Handloom Fabrics in U.P.
As the figure 3.17 shows that, in the state of U.P., the growth of
handloom production has been drastically declined during 1987-88 to 1995-
96. There are many responsible factors behind the decreasing production of
handloom; some major factors are as follows:
Mill & Power loom are playing major role in decreasing the handloom
products because it is also mentioned in chapter-5 that Mill & Power loom are
producing same articles like handloom and on mill & Power loom the
production process takes very little time to prepare products and products are
also cheaper than handloom. Therefore, people buy same articles made by mill
& Power loom at cheaper prices.
Low demand of handloom products is a big reason of declining
production because most of the states are still weaving only traditional things
like sari, dhoti, gamchha etc. the products are not updated according to the
changing trends, thus today customers are not taking much interest in
handloom articles.
Low wage rate of weavers, their poor living conditions forced
handloom workers to migrate from handloom sector and therefore the
employment and production is decreasing in handloom industry.
The inadequate supply or non availability of hank yarn at reasonable
prices to handloom units in rural areas is one of the important causes for
decline in contribution of handloom in total fabric production.
The other factor is “price elasticity of demand” of handloom products
is very high even a slight increase in the price of handloom cloth leads to
70
decline in its demand. As we know that there is direct relationship in demand
and supply when demand is low supply will be low.
3.5 Export Performance of the Handloom Sector: India is a country rich in tradition and cultural heritage. Handloom sector is
contributing a significant role in the economy of India; the total value of
export of handloom textile from India is Rs. 1662.89 crores in the year 2010-
11. The handloom share in total textile export is exhibited in the following
table.
Table: 3.15 Share of Handloom in the Export of total Textile (%) YEAR HANDLOOM (%)
1985-86 7.2
1986-87 5.2
1987-88 4.8
1988-89 4.7
1989-90 3.5
1990-91 2.4
1991-92 2.5
1992-93 2.7
1993-94 2.1
1994-95 1.6
1995-96 1.3
Source: Roy T. et al (1998), in Gulati, Preeti, Unpublished Thesis, School of Planning, CEPT,
Ahmedabad.
The table 3.15 shows that the handloom sector is contributing in total
textile sector, but the share of handloom products export in total textile export
has been decreased. The decline of handloom share is the result of competition
from power loom sector, because power loom is also producing the same
articles like handloom at cheaper prices.
P.T.O
71
3.6 Growth of Average Production of Fabric or Productivity of
Weavers in Handloom Sector: In the country many types of cloth varieties is produced in the
handloom sector. The productivity of weavers is depend on many factors, such
as the type of yarn used, for example, pure silk fabrics average a low
production per weaver per day, while the fabric with zari result in production
rates of 2-3 mtrs. per weaver per day, weavers working with cotton yarn
average over 3 mtrs. per weaver per day. The type of technology, which is
used for weaving, also impacts the productivity.
The informations from weaver household on average production of
fabrics per weaver per day(linear meters) are exhibited in table 3.16.
Table: 3.16 Distribution of Weaver Household by Average Production
of Cloth per Day in India Distribution of Weaver Households by Average Production of cloths per weaver per day
in India (In Meters)
<1 meter 1-2 meter 2-3 meters 3-5 meters >5 meters
All
Households
1987-88 1499071 399151 179282 297002 685583
3060089 48.99% 13.04% 5.86% 9.71% 22.40%
1995-96 1710283 268064 139411 156104 250650
2524512 67.75% 10.62% 5.52% 6.18% 9.93%
2009-10*
<1 meter 1-2 meter 2-3 meters 3-4 meters >4 meters
826981 581462 190683 85130 116744 1801000
45.92% 32.29% 10.59% 4.73% 6.48%
Source:Compiled from-
Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88,Ministry of Textile,GOI. Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER.
Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.
. *the data of this year was only sought from those weavers who had a working loom
in their premises
The growth of average production of fabric or growth of productivity
of weavers in handloom sector can be analyzed from the following discussion.
72
Figure 3.18 Distribution of Weaver Household by Avrg. Length fabrics in
India
The data presented in table 3.16, can be analyzed also by figure 3.18,
that in 1987-88 in the country, 49 percent HH were producing up to one meter
of cloth and 13 percent HH have reported about their productivity between 1-2
meters and 6 percent HH were reported production of 2-3 meters while almost
10 percent HH were weaving between 3-5 meters and remaining 22 percent
HH reported more than 5 meters in the country.
The census report also reveals that average production per weaver is
higher in urban areas. In 1995 census of handloom shows in table 3.16 that in
the country more than 65 percent HH units were producing up to 1 meter, 10
percent HH reported production of 1-2 meter, while 5.5 per cent HH produced
2-3 meter per day, 6 percent HH were weaving between 3-5 and rest nearly 10
percent HH were producing more than 5 meter. The statistics on productivity
shows that the production per worker at all India level is declined over the
period 1987-88 to 1995-96. Although many states reported that their
73
productivity is increasing but at the all India level the reduction is found in
average productivity of weavers.
In 2009-10, the data of handloom census of India reveals that 45.9
percent HH reported production of less than one meter per day, 32.3 percent
HH were weaving 1-2 meter per day, while 10.6 percent HH reported
production of 2-3 meter per day and only 4.7 percent were reported 3-4 meter
per day and remaining 6.5 percent HH reported that they are weaving more
than 4 meter per day.
It is noticed that productivity of weavers has declined; earlier in 1987-
88 (table 3.16) in India more than 22 percent HH reported production of more
than 5 meters while in 2009-10 only 6.5 percent HH were producing more
than 4 meters.
Average production of fabrics in Uttar Pradesh:
Uttar Pradesh is a state where fabric is mostly prepared for commercial
purposes. The average production of fabrics in U.P. is as follows:
Table: 3.17 Distribution of Weaver Households by Average Production
of Cloth per Day in Uttar Pradesh
Distribution of Weaver Households by Average Production of cloths per day in U.P. (In Meters)
<1
meter
1-2
meter 2-3 meters 3-5 meters >5 meters
All
Households
1987-88 46567 10990 4401 10301 117258
189517 24.57% 5.80% 2.32% 5.44% 61.87%
1995-96 63723 12273 11978 14481 38539
140994
45.20% 8.70% 8.50% 10.27% 27.33%
2009-10*
<1
meter
1-2
meter 2-3 meters 3-4 meters >4 meters
39281 5875 1746 1827 28782 77511
50.68% 7.58% 2.25% 2.36% 37.13%
Source :Compiled from-
Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88,Ministry of Textile, GOI. Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER.
Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.
.*the data of this year was only sought from weavers who had a working loom in
their premises.
74
Figure 3.19 Distribution of Weaver Household by Avrg. Length fabrics in Uttar
Pradesh
In the case of U.P. in 1987-88 more than half HH were producing 5
meters and above per day, as the Table 3.17 and Figure 3.19 shows that one
fourth HH reported less than one meter per day while 5.8 percent HH
productivity was noticed between 1-2 meter per day and 2.3 percent HH
reported production between 2 to 3 meter per day and rest 5.4 percent HH
were producing between 3-5 meter per day.
In 1995-96 in U.P, it was observed that nearly 45.20 percent HH
reported production of less than 1 meter and around 27.33 percent HH had
reported that their productivity was more than 5 meters.
It is observed in the year of 2009-10, the productivity is declined
because the numbers of those households are increased, who are producing
less than one meter. As per handloom census 2009-10 in Uttar Pradesh more
than half HH produce less than one meter, 37.16% weaver HH reported that
75
they are producing more than 4 mtrs. This low productivity occurred due to
many reasons-
Mostly weavers are self trained they learn weaving at their home and
the formal training institutions are lacking for handloom weavers.
In handloom sector low average production of fabric is also because of
old type of loom structure and design, this type of loom require more effort to
operate the loom resulting in excessive fatigue, accessories used in loom like
reed shuttle pirn etc. are not of appropriate quality in most cases resulting in
poor quality of fabric, less efficiency of the loom more fatigue of the weavers.
Although the government started many programs for training facility
for weavers and advancement of loom but the problem is, that these programs
are not implementing properly.
3.7 Growth of Yarn Consumption:
Yarn is the most important input of the handloom industry. Cotton is
that type of yarn that is basis to most of the handloom fabrics and therefore it
is used extensively and it was found during the third round of handloom
census that cotton of different counts is used by most weavers for the
production of different fabrics like gamchha, angavastram, sari, dhoti, lungi,
towels, napkins etc.
Wool is also used in handloom production especially in North East and
the Northern state for products such as shawl and blankets. While, silk yarn is
used by a smaller proportion of the weavers in the country.
P.T.O
76
Table:3.18 Average Monthly Consumption of Different Types of Yarn in Handloom Household Units (in. Kgs.)
Average Monthly consumption of different types of Yarn in HH Units in India (in. Kgs)
Year Cotton
Viscose &
Blends
Mulberry
Silk
Muga
Silk
Eri
Silk
Tussar
silk
Zari
Silk Wool Polyester Other
Total Yarn
Consumption
1987-
88*
127308198 5134685 6760484 21655 92514 123455 _ 10510863 293598 1654621 151900073
83.81% 3.38% 4.45% 0.01% 0.06% 0.08% _ 6.92% 0.19% 1.09%
1995-96 22134422 649048 791530 92832 87295 179036 503527 2976429 384176 1577949
29376243 75.35% 2.21% 2.69% 0.32% 0.30% 0.61% 1.71% 10.13% 1.31% 5.37%
Average Monthly consumption of different types of Yarn in HH Units in Uttar Pradesh (in. Kgs)
Year Cotton
Viscose&
Blends
Mulberry
Silk
Muga
silk
Eri
silk
Tussar
silk
Zari
silk Wool Polyester Other
Total Yarn
Consumption
1987-
88*
19666455 69880 127620 4099 787 4749 _ 509072 148343 250446 20781451
94.63% 0.34% 0.61% 0.02% 0.00% 0.02% _ 2.45% 0.71% 1.21%
1995-96
3153068 221059 100437 35110 46905 47029 96743 171391 66394 468347 4406483
71.56% 5.02% 2.28% 0.80% 1.06% 1.07% 2.20% 3.89% 1.51% 10.63%
Source
:Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88,Ministry of Textile,GOI. Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER.
Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.
*As per Joint Census of Handloom & Power loom 1995-96,Yarn consumption data obtained in 1987-88 was unreliable.
77
In India in 1995-96, it is observed from table 3.18 that the consumption
of wool yarn is increased from 6 percent to 10 percent from 1987-88 and other
types of yarn consumption were also increased, while consumption of cotton
yarn has been decreased from 83 percent to 75 percent.
The identified reason behind decreasing consumption of cotton yarn
was that because, power loom started producing the cotton fabric material like
gamcha, dhoti, cotton saree etc. and due to cheaper price of power loom
produced articles, the demand of handloom woven articles declined and
resultant the consumption of cotton yarn have reduced. It was also observed
that consumption of wool yarn, polyester yarn and silk yarn has increased.
If we discuss about the state of Uttar Pradesh in 1987-88 the cotton
yarn was extensively used because 94 percent consumption belongs to cotton
yarn and as the table 3.18 represents 2.45 percent wool yarn have consumed
while the consumption of viscose & blends was 0.34 percent and silk yarn was
less consumed because in Uttar Pradesh only Varanasi and Azamgarh district
were weaving silken items.
In 1995-96 the consumption of cotton yarn was reduced while “other
types” of yarn consumption has increased. The consumption of cotton yarn has
decreased in U.P as well as in All India level because of high cost of cotton
yarn and often the unavailability of yarn. The other strong factor is closure of
Janta cloth scheme because for weaving Janta Cotton Sari, earlier the
consumption of cotton yarn was very high.
3.8 Growth of Capital Sources in Handloom Industry: The weavers avail finance from various channels. In formal channels,
the cooperative sector for the purpose of extension of financial facilities is
covered by the Reserve bank of India (RBI) scheme and credit is channelized
through the national bank for agriculture and rural development (NABARD).
Weavers also take loan from commercial banks on the pledge and
hypothecation of property; apart from this, regional rural banks (RRBs) also
provide loans to the weavers on the guarantee of the handloom.
78
Weavers who are outside the fold of cooperative societies, go for other
informal sources for credit, such as master weavers, relatives/friends and
traders etc.
Table 3.19 Source Of Finance in Handloom Household Units in 1995-96
Source Of Finance in HH Units (1995-96)
Own Cooperatives Commercial Bank Others Total
India
2001284 239416 36092 276630
2553422 78.38% 9.3% 1.4% 10.83%
Uttar Pradesh
124637 19055 6553 25185
175430 71.4% 10.86% 3.7% 14.35%
Source:
Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER.
Table 3.20 Source of Finance in Indebted Handloom Household Units in
2009-10
Source Of Finance in HH Units (2009-10)*
Money
Lender
Master
Weaver
Friends/
Relatives Cooperatives Com- bank SHGs Traders Others Total
India
11317 37755 4105 4990 12525 4213 3598 6062 8456
5 13.38% 44.65% 4.85% 5.9% 14.81% 4.9% 4.25% 7.1%
Uttar
Pradesh
104 822 182 27 195 2 56 13
1401 7.4% 58.67% 12.99% 1.93% 13.92% 0.14% 4% .093%
Source:
Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.
*Data related to indebted Handloom Households.
The first round of handloom census had not covered the information
regarding the sources of finance, while in second handloom census (1995-96) the data
obtained about this source. As per second round census 1995-96 there were many
sources have been mentioned like cooperative, own, commercial banks but many
informal channels like master weavers, traders, friends and relatives were not covered
(table 3.19).
79
Figure 3.20 Source of Finance in Handloom Household Units in 1995-96
Figure 3.21 Source of Finance in Handloom Household Units in 2009-10
(India) (Uttar Pradesh)
The data reveals that in the country 78 percent HH manage their
financial requirement by their own savings, the category ‘own savings’ is also
80
consider as a source. Next major source was ‘Others’ (11%), Cooperative
contributed 9.3 percent and the role of commercial banks was only 1.4
percent. The change observed in 2009-10 at All India level as compared to
1995-96 that master weaver source has became most popular source of finance
(45%) next important source is commercial banks(15%) followed by money
lender, others, cooperatives, SHGs and friends/relatives. The role of
cooperatives has been decreased in 2009-10 from 10% to 6% as comparison to
1995-96. While commercial banks showing more contribution in giving
finance to weavers and its percentage has increased from 1.4 percent to 14.81
percent.
In the case of Uttar Pradesh, in 1995-96 the 71 percent HH were
managing finance from their own savings and next major source was “Other”
which is 15 percent and lastly there was cooperatives and commercial bank. In
table 3.20 as well as graph presented that in 2009-10 the change is noticed.
Major source of finance has become the master weavers 58% and next major
sources were friend/relatives and commercial banks both contributing around
13% but the role of cooperative has decreased. It is found that weavers are
more convenient to take loans from informal sources rather than cooperative
and commercial banks.
The weavers avoid obtaining loans from the commercial banks
because in banks there is a major problem of time delay in sanctioning,
increasing transaction costs, and bureaucratic attitudes of bankers, lack of
awareness among bankers about handloom sector as well as lack of weaver’s
assets
. According to Dr. Manmohan singh “Access to credit and cost of
credit are two major problems facing by the handloom sector”. The reasons for
taking loan mostly from master weavers are due to change in the employment
structure. Earlier major part of weavers was independent but now majorly they
work under master weavers.
81
3.9 Growth of Input Source for Handloom Industry: 3.9.1 Performance of Yarn Source :
Yarn is a basic and very important raw material for handloom weaving
and weavers procure yarn from many sources like open market, cooperatives,
master weavers, National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) and
from other sources.
As far as NHDC is concerned it is an institution for handloom
development and autonomous body under the Companies Act 1956 to assist
the speedy development of the procurement and supply of inputs at reason
able prices augmenting the marketing effort of the state handloom agencies
and initiating developmental activities for upgrading the technology in the
handloom sector and improving productivity. The main objectives of this
corporation are –
i. To facilitate the availability of raw materials like yarn, dyes &
chemicals and other inputs to handloom weaver.
ii. To play a proactive role for the benefit to the sector.
iii. To create marketing opportunities for higher output.
Sources of Yarn: As per the census of handloom the major sources and their
contribution in providing yarn is given in following tables-
Table 3.21 Source of Yarn for Handloom Households in India Source Of Yarn in India ( in % )
Open Market Cooperatives Master Weaver SHDC/NHDC From Others
1995-96 74% 10% 10% 2% 11%
2009-10 77.77% 4.46% 14.14% 0.56% 3.06%
Source :Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER. Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.
Table 3.22 Source of Yarn for Handloom Household in Uttar Pradesh Source Of Yarn in Uttar Pradesh (in %)
Open Market Cooperatives Master Weaver SHDC/NHDC From Others
1995-96 94% 14% 14% 9% 19%
2009-10 19.88% 0.49% 74.63% 0.07% 4.93%
Source:
Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI, NCAER. Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.
82
Figure 3.22 Percentage of Handloom Household Using Different Sources
of Yarn in India
Figure 3.23 Percentage of Handloom Household Using Different Sources
of Yarn in Uttar Pradesh
83
Table 3.21 represents that in India in 1995-96, the main source of yarn
was found open market, 74% HH reported about this source, 10% HH
obtained yarn from co-operative soc.,10% HH reported about master weaver,
11% procured from other source, while the role of State Handloom
Development Cooperation (SHDC) was negligible, in providing yarn to the
weavers. The role of cooperatives was also not significant, because only 10
percent HH collected yarn from there.
In 2009-10 it is noticed that the contribution of government institution
like cooperatives and SHDC got worsen as the table 3.21 shows, only 4.5
percent weavers HH getting yarn from cooperatives, and from SHDC only
0.56 percent HH reported that source. It emerged that both cooperatives as
well as SHDC have failed in achieving their goal. The master weaver as a
source of input yarn has increased from 10% to 14% since 1995 to 2009-10.
Therefore it may be said that in India a major part of HH (77.8% ) are
procuring yarn from open market and it is also clear that in the open market
weavers are also forced to pay higher prices for the yarn.
In the case of Uttar Pradesh in 1995-96, as the table 3.22 open market was
the biggest source for yarn there were more than 90 percent HH reported about
this source,14% HH were procuring from Master Weaver,14% were also
procuring from co-operative society 19% HH obtained from other sources and
9% HH reported about SHDC/NHDC. While, the data of 2009-10 presented
the different picture, in this year the master weavers replaced the open market
as a major source of input and in 2009-10 in U.P., 74.6 percent weaver HH
moved to master weavers for procuring the yarn from them as far as the
government sources is concerned, all are insignificant in providing yarn to this
sector.
3.9.2 Performance of Dyes & Chemical source:
The dyes & chemical are basically used in special shades of colored
yarn for more expensive fabrics and therefore a small proportion of HH buy
dyes and chemicals. The main sources of this input is given in the below table-
84
Table 3.23 Source of Dyes & Chemicals for Handloom Household in
India
Source
:Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER. Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.
Figure 3.24 Percentage of Handloom Household Using Different
Sources of Dyes &Chemicals (India)
The table 3.23 represents that in the second round of census (1995-96),
it has found that dyes and chemicals were main sourced from open market
which is 58% at All India level. The major source distribution of HH that
obtain dyes & chemicals is as follows 58% HH procured from open market
and 33% HH reported from ‘other sources’.
Percentage of HH using different sources of D&C (India)
Open Market Cooperatives Master Weaver SHDC/NHDC From Others
1995-96* 58% 10% 3% 1% 33%
2009-10 50.41% 6.48% 20.45% 0.61% 22.04%
85
From co operative 10 percent HH have collected and only 1 percent
HH reported from SHDC/ NHDC.
As per the 2009-10 data at All India level, open market is still a major
source for dyes and chemicals as the table 3.24 reveals that 50 per cent HH
procuring dyes & chemicals from open market, it has also found that master
weaver became third major source and the role of cooperatives and SHDC also
reduced in terms of providing dyes & chemicals.
Table 3.24 Source of Dyes & Chemicals for Handloom Household in Uttar
Pradesh.
Percentage of HH using different sources of D&C (Uttar Pradesh)
Open Market Cooperatives Master Weaver SHDC/NHDC From Others
1995-96* 90% 4% 0% 1% 24%
2009-10 7.15% 0.59% 89.83% 0.10% 2.34%
Source:
Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER. Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.
Figure 3.25 Percentage of Handloom Household using different sources
of Dyes & Chemicals ( Uttar Pradesh)
86
In the state of Uttar Pradesh there was also open market as the biggest
sources for dyes & chemicals in 1995-96 as the table 3.24 shows that 90
percent HH were obtaining from there, while 4 percent HH reported from
cooperatives and only 1 percent HH were sourced from SHDC and 24
percent households reported from other sources.
In 2009-10 the master weaver source has become major source for
input of dyes & chemicals because 90 percent HH were procuring from this
source, 7.2 percent HH reported about open market and 2.4 percent HH
procured dyes & chemicals from “Other” sources.
It is noticed from the figures 3.23 & 3.24 that Open market and master
weavers are two major sources for dyes & chemicals in the handloom sector
because if we see the employment structure of the handloom workers we
noticed that mostly weavers work independently or under master weaver.
Independent handloom worker procure D&C from open market
because of easy availability of it and workers who are engaged with master
weavers they get D & C from master weavers. Therefore this is also a major
reason that input cost is high in the handloom sector.
3.10 Budget Allocation for Handloom Sector:
In the aftermath of the economic reform in India, there has been a
policy shift in favor of organized sector of the economy. Resulted the
allocation of budget are also tilted in favor of organized sector.
As presented in the table 3.25 that, the overall budget for textile sector
has been consistently increasing over the years but the total budget for
handlooms declined over its previous years in six out of the last thirteen years.
Thus, it may be said that handloom industry continues to be neglected in terms
of budgetary allocations.
87
Table 3.25 Handloom Budget Compared Against Textile Budget of India Handloom Budget Compared against Textile Budget (in Rs. Crore)
Year Handloom Budget (HB) % Change in THB with 1997-98 as base year
Total Textile Budger(TB) % share of Handlooms in Textile Budget
Plan Non- Plan
Total (THB)
Plan Non- Plan Total (TTB)
% Change in TTB with 1997-98 as base year
1997-98 107.00 96.50 203-50 - 260.00 479.04 739.04 - 27.5 1998-99 89.80 61.80 151-60 -25.50 260.00 726.58 986.58 33.49 15.3 1999-00 81.80 56.50 138-30 -32.03 266.00 740.10 1006.10 36.13 13.7 200-01 112.00 53.29 165.29 -18.77 457.00 754.30 1211.30 63.907 13.6 2001-02 116.00 40.50 156.50 -23.09 650.00 660.30 1310.30 77.29 11.9 2002-03 117.00 35.83 152.83 -24.89 715.00 80.50 1585.50 114.53 9.63 2003-04 129.77 125.91 255.68 25.64 760.00 947.84 1707.84 131.08 14.9 2004-05 119.36 132.37 251.73 23.7 878.00 902.31 1780.31 140.89 14.1 2005-06 131.00 63.89 194.89 -4.23 1150.00 858.25 2008.25 171.73 9.7 2006-07 150.00 91.29 241.29 18.5 1349.50 1696.25 3045.75 312.12 7.9 2007-08 252.00 68.75 320.75 57.5 2243.00 893.68 3136.68 321.72 10.22 2008-09 255.00 70.32 325.32 59.86 500.00 823.51 3323.51 349.70 9.7
2009-10 255.00 73.07 328.07 61.2 2500.00 889.00 3389.00 358.56 9.68 Source
Compiled from Annual Union Budget of India, Ministry of Finance
The table 3.25 represents that the percentage share of handloom in total
textile budget has been reduced from 27.5 to 9.68 during 1997-98 to2009-10.
Table: 3.26 Revised Budget of Handloom &Total Textile of India
Source Compiled from Annual Union Budget of India, Ministry of Finance
\
Year handloom Revised Total Textile Revised Handloom % of Total
Plan Non- Plan Total Plan Non- Plan Total 1997-98 96.39 78.37 174.76 250.00 842.26 1092.26 15.9
1998-99 80.72 58.06 138.78 240.88 766.62 1007.50 13.7
1999-00 78.25 46.92 125.17 260.45 817.27 1077.72 11.6
200-01 85.00 45.65 130.65 408.30 818.82 1227.12 10.6
2001-02 95.77 30.67 126.44 610.00 816.33 1426.33 8.86
2002-03 112.10 100.30 212.40 660.00 947.00 1607.00 13.2
2003-04 111.31 84.06 195.37 675.00 900.00 1575.00 12.4
2004-05 108.96 90.68 199.64 750.00 855.82 1605.82 12.4
2005-06 177.64 68.49 246.13 1185.21 1106.82 2292.03 10.7
2006-07 186..45 44.97 231.42 1629.50 1364.11 2993.61 7.7
2007-08 239.04 68.00 307.04 2323.0 813.68 3136.68 9.7
2008-09 254.70 92.96 347.66 4092.32 1046.68 5139.0 6.7
88
The Revised Budget for Handloom:
The general budget is usually announced in the beginning of the fiscal
year and the provisions in the general budget are revised towards the end of
the fiscal year based on actual expenditures. For handlooms in most years, the
revised budget has reduced the allocation to handlooms, resulting in it being
an even smaller proportion of the total textile budget. Revision is always down
ward varying between 10 to 20%.The reducing trend is continues for the years.
This would mean that govt. has failed in utilizing the allocating in funds fully
and properly.
We have analyzed the growth of handloom sector in the country as well
as in U.P., on various criteria such as weaver households, looms, production,
productivity, export, consumption, input and its sources etc. Although, most of
them are showing negative growth as a whole, but some states are performing
well in the country, as well as in Uttar Pradesh, there is also some districts are
showing positive growth of handloom sector. It may be said that this sector
has the potential to survive in the age of mechanization.
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